RE: jr radio equitment question
I have that same radio. Im one that prefers to keep the radio and receivers the same manufacturer, however I have used Castle and Hitec in addition to the R720 and R790 JR receivers. I have used all brands of servos as well, just cutting off the plugs and installing JR plugs....
Posted on: 7/14/2012 8:15 AM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154860

RE: LETS TRY TO POLISH SOMETHING!
Where do you find the slick n quick for 22 dollars? I use the same stuff as well, but my local auto paint shops hits me for 38.00 for the kit.
Posted on: 7/7/2012 8:38 AM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Q-40 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11146441

RE: personal fav covering
On my powered planes I prefer to fiberglass and paint. It is a lot more work, but I enjoy painting and trying new graphics with my airbrush. For my sailplanes I usually glass and paint the fuselage and use ultracoat on the wings and other open areas. Ive found it to be much easier to apply than monokote.
Posted on: 5/3/2012 9:08 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11067735

RE: Scratch Designed/Built Sailplane
Nodd, This is a really slick design. Im very interested in this thread. Have you run the sim as a pure sailplane? Id be interested in the plans eitherin PDF, DWG, or DXF format if your so inclined....[;)]
Posted on: 4/17/2012 5:24 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11046371

RE: Where do you like to fly?
Here in the desert we have a section of abandoned 2 lane road approx 1 mile long that is still county maintained. It turns to a dirt road that is seldom used, so it makes for a great runway. We have established a pit area off to the side and the group there is of the anti-establishment types.... Not into the club scene. just there to have some fun, tell a few jokes and fly without being hasseled by any club safety/rules/noise nazis. We just use common sense and enjoy ourselves..
Posted on: 2/1/2012 8:33 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10939573

RE: Need a more Powerful Starter
I also found that the wires that come with the power panel are quite undersized, therefore not allowing the full amperage that the starter requires to be drawn from the battery. I removed the original wires and installed some much bigger gauge wires between the battery and powerpanel and have no problems since. Steven
Posted on: 12/4/2011 3:46 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10843148

RE: glow to gas conversion adviceST3000
Ken, Will the ST 3250 respond as well to a gas conversion as the smaller engine does? Thanks. Steven
Posted on: 10/27/2011 8:06 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10786001

RE: Your average / longest build
I started a Don Smith 1/6 scale AT-6 which Im building into an SNJ. I started this in 1996. At the time I swore I was not going to detail it for contest submission, and I held myself to that. It was almost complete when I put it aside to raise my kids and such. I kept walking past it in the garage over the years, watching it collect dust and decided I was going to finish it. This was a year ago. As I started to get into it, I found many things that I could do a lot better at now than 15 years ago. So now Ive stripped it back down to its fiberglass and am detailing it the best I can, which I swore I wouldnt do.[:D] Its now in primer again, with a completely detailed cockpit, working lights, sliding canopy and everything else. Maybe one day Ill even finish it.
Posted on: 10/2/2011 5:08 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10745437

RE: Why Doesn't The AMA and the Hobby as a whole market to minorities?
I could see Snoop sniffing the glue......
Posted on: 7/10/2011 9:02 AM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10614601

RE: Why Doesn't The AMA and the Hobby as a whole market to minorities?
This is nothing more than attempt to stir the racial pot in my opinion. You see it everyday, in politics, corporations, and every day society when someone doesnt percieve to get what they want, the easiest thing is to cry racism. I have never been to a field where anyone, no matter what their ethnic background is, turned away, but instead people help them and try and get them interested in the hobby. This is a hobby that is promoted to everyone, not just white, or black or whatever, but to everyone. just because someione doesnt like the color of the skin of the model holding the product, it doesnt take away from that product. But for some, the model holding the product seems to be more defining than the product itself. Learn to look past the model and focus on the product instead of seeing something that really not there. And to try and insert some racist overtone into a hobby that is as innocent as RC modeling is really quite ridiculous.
Posted on: 7/9/2011 12:39 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10613538

RE: the flight box xl
Stephen, here are some pics I took of the legs of mine. There are 2 spring loaded catches in each leg where they join the box, to give it a positive lock in both the up and down position. If you look carefully you will see them. Also, the pivot hinges that go through the legs into the mount on the box are just locktited bolts going into threaded inserts in the box. The angle of the leg bosses are 15 degrees. Let me know if you have any more questions. Steven If I remeber correctly, I think that these were offered with different options- the removeable flight box, more drawers, no legs etc. Did your originally have legs or not?
Posted on: 5/26/2011 9:37 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10542157

RE: Perry carb to OS crankcase
There is no part number on the box for the NOS Perry carb.. It just says "series 80". Dar is correct- the throat measures .362 and the bore of the crankcase measures .390. I have always used 10% fuel in it as well. When I put a 10x6 prop on it tho, its always seemed to labor a bit, and with the 9x6, it accelerates much cleaner. Its always been a good running engine, but the rich mid range has always annoyed me. The brass shim stock is a good idea that Im considering.
Posted on: 5/26/2011 9:34 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10542707

RE: the flight box xl
Is this one one that you are looking for? Its a Custom Woodcraft. I believe they are still making them, but it couldnt find them online Ive had mine since the mid '80's and I love it. Its still the only one Ive had. The biggest issue Ive had is the finish is not fuel proof. It appears to be polyurethane and it has wrinkled and cracked. One day Ill refinish it.
Posted on: 5/26/2011 6:29 AM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10541251

RE: Perry carb to OS crankcase
Hello Jaka, everytime Ive torn down and cleaned that carb, Ive reassembled it with the low speed screw half covering the air bleed hole, and used this setting as a starting point when readjusting the low speed mixture. Ive always managed to get a good idle and low speed throttle out of it and it will idle all day long, but its just when I get to midrange and almost full throttle is where is goes rich. Ive always used muffler pressure and Im pretty careful when setting up the tank. It seems to run best with a 9x6 prop. Currently this engine is off an airplane and I am building one which I had planned on using it on.
Posted on: 5/26/2011 5:47 AM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10541209

RE: Perry carb to OS crankcase
Thanks Eagle, it does seem rich at mid throttle, which would cause the fourstroking. Its an old 3A carberator, and air bleed type. I have taken it apart and resealed all possible air paths so many times now and it keeps running the same. I dont know of any adjustment to be made in the barrel itself, but I will check that this evening. The engine is still pretty tight and has very good compression as well. The adhesive issue is what concerns me as well with the tape. I have an idea Im working on using JB weld and a mold to fabricate a spacer. Another question also, this Perry carb I picked up was NIB and made in 1982. Will it need any cleaning? It seems fine to me and I dont see any o rings in it that may have rotted over time.. Steven
Posted on: 5/24/2011 2:35 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10538550

Perry carb to OS crankcase
Ive done a search for this issue, and I believe that I saw it addressed, but I cant find it, so forgive me if this post is redundant. I have an old OS 40FP that has been a good engine, except for its midrange. It fourstrokes and runs really bad and no matter what I do, I cant get a smooth transition and half throttle out of it. I found at my LHS on the dollar table a Perry carb for the OS 35, which I snapped up. However when I try to mount it on the FP40, the carb neck is too small (.362 dia) and the diameter of the crankcase is .390 dia. How can I make up this difference? Would wrapping the neck of the carb with aluminum tape work or would the adhesive eventually dissolve and get into the engine? Or are there any suggestions to get the original 3A carb to function correctly? Ive cleaned it dozens of times, with no difference, so Im at a loss and just ready to run the Perry. Thanks in advance! Steven
Posted on: 5/24/2011 12:57 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10538388

RE: What went wrong?
Ok.. I found some PVA at a local boat repair center. He was kind enough to give me a water bottle full of it for free. So the new plug was made, waxed 5 times throughly, sprayed with 3 coats of PVA, which flowed out nicely. So I laid up the mold on the new plug and Ill be damned, it didnt stick! WoooHooo! It really came out nice. The nicest mold I have yet made. Its amazing what will happen when you get the right materials.......[:D] Steven
Posted on: 5/19/2011 10:24 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10530510

RE: AIRBRUSH please help.
I use a Paasche Talon and I love it.. Its a great mid priced brush that performs better than itys price tag.. I just shot some Testor enamel paint through it today and it went fine. I reduced it to a 1:1 ratio, until it was about the same consistentcy of milk.
Posted on: 5/16/2011 4:32 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10524038

RE: What went wrong?
Wyo- I think that will be a good idea. I have the ABS wheel pants that I had purchased years ago from Rich Uravitch, which are all primed and ready to go.. I was considering redoing them in F/G anyways. I think that on one pant I will try the hairspray, and on the other Ill try the PVA and do a comparison and let you know which works better for me. I try it out on the wheel pants before I sacrifice my new cowl plug.. [:D]
Posted on: 5/7/2011 10:40 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10507606

RE: What went wrong?
Ok.. Sorry its been so long since I last posted, but Ive made a new plug (which is actually better than the first one) and its taken me a while. I constructed the base from styrofoam, covered with 2 oz cloth with West epoxy.. Ive sanded, Ive sanded, filled all the holes and Im pretty happy with it. Its now in primer (Duplicolor filler / primer). My question is this: Can I just clear coat the primer like I did last time. which didnt turn out so well, or should I paint it and clear? I do plan to use PVA this time along with the wax.. Im just a bit nervous since Ive put much time into this that I dont want another stuck plug. I did read the article on the West Systems web site about the hair spray, but was feeling a bit uneasy about trying something so different and not having it work. I does seem like a good alternative tho, and its available where as I will have to order a gallon of PVA and never use half of it in the rest my life! I do have some automotive 2 part clear that I am thinking of using. I also think that the rattle can stuff was a part of the original problem as well. [image][/image] Thanks for all your help guys! Steven
Posted on: 5/7/2011 4:23 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10507047

RE: What went wrong?
Thanks.. Ive had this problem in the past with plugs sticking, but never this bad. I could'nt find any PVA locally here in the stores and I cant order it online (trying to keep this off the wifes radar [:)]). Would a primer with something other than a laquer base be more stable? Ive tried to locate PVA at stores like Michaels in their sculpting section, but didn't see any there and the auto body shops here locally don't have it either. does it go by any other name or is there a recipe to make some at home? Steven
Posted on: 4/22/2011 5:08 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10479003

What went wrong?
OK... I have made a few molds in the past with mixed results. I am currently building a Extra 3.25 and made the plug for the cowling from styrofoam, glassed it, filled, sanded and got it to a point were it was pretty smooth and acceptable. I clear coated the primer (Duplicolor filler / primer) with Acrylic Enamel, wet sanded till smooth and glossy. I went ahead to make the mold, applied approx 10 coats of meguirs #8 mold release wax. I was so slick that I was having trouble holding it. Anyways, made the mold and I couldnt seperate the halves. I finally just melted out the foam and tried to peel the layer of glass from the inside of the mold and all the paint, primer and glass stuck to the inside of the mold. Ive been trying to save this mold but I dont think I can. I need to start over It took a week just to get the last plug right. Why did it stick? Any suggestions so I dont have to repeat this process for a third time? [8D] Thanks! Steven
Posted on: 4/22/2011 4:26 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10478932

RE: Favorite Beer.
Sierra Nevada Pale Ale has a good smooth, favorful taste with a nice hoppy aroma.
Posted on: 3/29/2011 9:09 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Cars, Trucks, Buggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10431614

RE: Non delivery after 3 yr wait.
I think we should all email bomb him until he either refunds the money or produces the kit. Clog his email.
Posted on: 3/15/2011 9:34 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10402885

RE: Acrylic paint
I have used 2 part acrylic enamel auto paint with no problems on my sport plane with 10%, however, i had to make a repair and to was to lazy to use the auto stuff and used the acrylic enamel from a can and, guess what, it isnt fuel proof. one of these days Ill have to strip it and repaint that section.
Posted on: 3/14/2011 10:33 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10400730

RE: WTB: Aquila Plans
RCM is very slow. I ordered a set of Ultra sport 60 plans and it took 4 weeks. I called, and they are very polite. Just need to be patient. They'll show up.
Posted on: 3/13/2011 5:54 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10397932

RE: DWG files? with link
they can be converted to PDF format with Adobe Acrobat.
Posted on: 2/22/2011 3:52 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10356077

RE: Repairing a cracked canopy
Thanks Les, I hadnt considered the moisture content of the plaster. Ill make sure its good and dry before I try and pull a part from it. I probably wont get to it for a while tho, with Christmas next week and all. Ill let you all know how it comes out.. Thanks! Steven
Posted on: 12/18/2010 7:38 AM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10204312

RE: Repairing a cracked canopy
I think what Ill do is remove the entire canopy, cut it so I can make it into a slider and try and reform the front piece by vacu forming. If I were to fill that cracked section with plaster, sand out the crack from the plug, do you think that should make an adequate plug? Thanks Steven
Posted on: 12/17/2010 10:27 AM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10202755

RE: Repairing a cracked canopy
I was afraid of this. I think the best option is to replace.. I was just wondering if there was a technique that I didnt know about. I just now need a 1/6 scale canopy that doesnt cost $58.00! [:D] So now that the canopy comes off.. the cockpit will have to be redone..... Need a pilot.... LOL
Posted on: 12/16/2010 12:54 PM by Author "Soaring Steve" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10201010