RE: ys 110 AT WITS END
i will certainly call... however the plunger was replaced with the old 120 plunger, which is smaller. That was the second fix, and it worked for a long time. perhaps i will try the old regulator body.
Posted on: 4/7/2009 1:34 AM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8656752

RE: ys 110 AT WITS END
when i tested the valve it does not leak and seems to opperate properly. HOWEVER that is my next step. i bought one earlier this afternoon.
Posted on: 4/6/2009 10:43 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8656322

RE: ys 110 AT WITS END
a regulator rebuild USED to fix it. It doesnt anymore. ???
Posted on: 4/6/2009 10:06 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8656173

RE: ys 110 AT WITS END
it happens regardless of how long the engine has been running, and the fuel being used is cool power 30% heli fuel. and seems to have nothing to do with the age of the fuel. -clam
Posted on: 4/6/2009 6:29 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8655474

ys 110 AT WITS END
alright. I have had a ys 110 for i am going to say probably 5 years. 3 of those years it was flown about 2-3 flights every weekend, religiously. so far, 3 times in it's history, my engine has contracted this problem. It idles fine, and runs excellent except just above idle. If i put it just above idle, it will simply die. Not slow down and die like it's rich, not speed up and die like it's lean. It will just drop to idle after about 2 seconds, and then simply stop turning. I have the valves set, (your guys numbers of about .04mm or .0015" seems a little tight, but that is where they are at, and it pulls) the plug is good. The regulator body has been rebuilt several times, because this has cured the problem before. but now, it isnt. working. Also, almost no matter what i do, i get fuel dripping from my carb, or a hissing noise. The engine is mounted inverted. It has done this through probably 2 regulator springs, 4 regulator membranes, a regulator body, and a plunger. Nothing seems to cure it. I have the idle set so it is perfect. I have the top end set, it's spinning a 16x6 at about 9700 static. It does not matter how i set the regulator. I adjust the idle to be correct, i adjust the top to be correct, and it still does the exact same thing. the odd thing about this problem, is every time it happens, it's not like a slow setting problem that just shows up over time. It actually will run perfectly, and then the next flight, BAM. no good. The first time it did this, was probably about 6 months into it's life. I was flying it anyway when my plane's wing gave, and i sent it in for service. It came back with a new cylender and it ran great. The second time it did this was probably about a year and a half into it's life. I took it to a guy in burbank who is no longer in business. He rebuilt the regulator assembly and tuned it, and it ran great. Since then, i have rebuilt the regulator a few times, and it has solved it for a flight or two, but it just keeps coming back. WHAT DO I DO? Im about ready to junk this thing.
Posted on: 4/6/2009 3:34 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8654857

RE: Building a DraganFlyer - need to mix speedcontrollers - HELP
hey guys!
Posted on: 8/19/2008 10:20 AM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Multi Rotor Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7862400

RE: Windings, heat sink compound, copper loss
so then, if i had a lot of stator poles, (24) and only wound 8 turns (enough to have exactly one layer of wire, 17 awg btw) than my motor will be able to handle much more power, due to more effective and even cooling? Also, if i had some stators that are going to be stacked, but need to be insulated, what's a good material to use? i need something really thin... perhaps a coating?
Posted on: 3/13/2008 10:20 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7221433

RE: Windings, heat sink compound, copper loss
I love it when you get confused over a term that describes something you already know [:@]
Posted on: 3/9/2008 9:00 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7200636

Windings, heat sink compound, copper loss
Will impregnating the windings with heat sink compound allow me to run more power through my motors since it is more conductive than air, or will it decrease my power handling ability since there is no air FLOW over the windings? also, what is copper loss? is that why people use 22.4v packs, so you can have more turns of smaller wire, resulting in more copper? how serious is the effect?
Posted on: 3/8/2008 2:33 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7194509

RE: Motor Winding Question
ok. now on to the next question. By covering the ENTIRE inside of the bell with magnets (IE no magnet gap) what am i looking at as far as power gain versus efficiency drop? What else will happen? i have never done it before. The magnets will be curved to fit the radius of the stator with a .19mm magnet gap.
Posted on: 3/5/2008 10:26 AM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7178516

RE: Motor Winding Question
I have always done a standard 4/3 magnets to poles, wound ABCABC. good success so far. so what are the benifits to using 34 magnets in that winding scheme versus 32 magnets ABCABC? I understand why 28 magnets would achieve a higher KV. But just for a reference, seeing as you have built motors this size, what kind of kvs could i achieve using the standard 32 magnet, ABCABC? keeping in mind that my limit for wire size is 1.15mm (17 gauge american)
Posted on: 3/5/2008 12:13 AM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7177142

RE: Motor Winding Question
I am aware of how to build and wind these things, i just dont know where to start with a # of turns. If it were 9 or 12 poles or something, it would be easy to just wind something and test. However, this stator will take hours of winding, and use up a lot of wire. I just wanted to see if anybody had some suggestions to at least get me close, so i might only have to rewind it once to get the specs i want. BTW, it's 24 teeth on the stator, 32 magnet poles.
Posted on: 3/4/2008 3:37 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7174070

Motor Winding Question
Yep, it's the return of spaceclam. I have a question regarding stator windings. Some background info on the motor i am making I have here 5 56.5mm stators, 24 teeth. about 4.5mm thick each, stacked all together. I have machined myself a bell (made of aluminum) a flux ring (made of iron) and a stator tube holder (which is pretty sexy, also aluminum.) The magnets are being custom made
Posted on: 3/4/2008 1:32 AM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7171495

RE: I need a gearbox
(forgot the reply thinger)
Posted on: 4/16/2007 11:00 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5727302

I need a gearbox
Hello guys, I need to find a very unusual gearbox, one that will accept two motors about 3" in diameter each and a combined input wattage of about 1000 watts. 8mm input gears are preferable, but that can be modified. The gear ratio is not too important, becase anything from 1:1-2:1 will work, and i can swap the gears around as necessary to acheive this, or make a few of the gears myself. basically i just need a platform with which to work, because i dont want to do it all myself from scratch. i'm too lazy Any ideas? -Clam
Posted on: 4/16/2007 10:58 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5727287

RE: Building a DraganFlyer - need to mix speedcontrollers - HELP
you are right. the eclipse 7 uses a module. couldn't tell you then.
Posted on: 11/15/2006 10:28 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Multi Rotor Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5002028

RE: Building a DraganFlyer - need to mix speedcontrollers - HELP
elsar, this should not be a problem. i run 4, 6,and 7 channel rx's with my 8 channel tx all the time. you might try borrowing a friend's tx, but it should work just fine. also, if you put a crystal for say 72.230mhz into a tx that is designed for a different frequency, it will cause problems. if it is wildly off it will just not work. this can be fixed by sending the tx back to the manufacturer for adjustment (or if you can figure it out yourself, good luck) could this be the cause of your problem? there should be a sticker somewhere on your tx that says what frequency it is made for, and check it with your crystal to be sure
Posted on: 11/14/2006 11:01 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Multi Rotor Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4997621

RE: Building a DraganFlyer - need to mix speedcontrollers - HELP
All of those words you mentioned about cheap gyros can be summed up into 3 words: "made in china" btw, i have not seen that act fuzzy2 gyro, but 99 euros is not $80, it's roughly $126. right now, it's roughly 1.27 dollars to the euro. Are you sure that the gyro you are looking at is not two seperate axis? there are many gyros like this out there, that are actually 2 axis gyros that are placed at the center of gravity, so you can stabilize two axis without two gyros, since you can not put two gyros exactly in the same place. if that is the case, you could y harnass your throttle, and put two v-tail mixers, with both their masters as throttle, and their slaves as each of the gyro outputs, so that one would mix throttle and gyro for your pitch control, and the other one would mix your throttle and your roll control?
Posted on: 11/5/2006 7:12 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Multi Rotor Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4959016

RE: Building a DraganFlyer - need to mix speedcontrollers - HELP
i am sorry about the image quality. you could do it with your setup without a problem my curent DF setup uses 4 mixers, and in addition to varying motor speeds, each motor has it's own independent collective pitch control. some of this control is done in my radio, (since i have 8 available channels), but i could do it on-board too with a y-harness and 2 reversing y-harnasses. suffice it to say that any kind of differential control can be achieved with v-tail mixers. While i reccomend using custom electronics because of the weight of the mixers, it is not always an option. i've found my current control setup... it's below. i would have done it with four channels, but i did not want any on-board components that i could avoid using. (i did the channel 3-4 mix, 3-8 and 3-8 mixes in my radio) btw, i can tell you with CERTAINTY that a gyro will contorl an esc without a problem. this is how i attempted to stabilize my aircraft for some time, until i realized that my gyros sucked, and just made the problem worse (they were gws peizo gyros. i should have predicted that) but my futaba heading lock gyro worked great. in fact, if i had a second one (or the gya305) i could have put the heading lock channel as channel 6 or 7 in my control setup so i could go into heading lock for a hover, and then switch to a rate mode for movement.
Posted on: 11/5/2006 3:01 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Multi Rotor Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4958155

RE: Building a DraganFlyer - need to mix speedcontrollers - HELP
thorn3, here's the deal. these motors, first of all, were chinese. feigaos. as with most chinese exports, they were not very high quality. i got them because they were cheap, but i now realize that i pretty much killed the project in doing so. even though i was only drawing about 4 amps to their maximum of 6, the fact remains that they were smaller than the motor mounting shroud (so they did not see any of the propwash) and these DFs opperate in a more or less static environment, so aside from the slight low pressure area created by the aerodynamic flow of the propwash over the motor shrouds, they did not see much cooling. i put the heatsinks on when i realized that these engines were getting pretty warm (not burning, but a little warm) but it was too late. the speed controls are rated to 10 amps, but they are also cheap (i think they are dutch or something) and probably wont put that kind of current out. did the vtail diagram help you out any? each one of those mixers cost $35, from http://www.veetail.com/Omni.html you will run into accuracy problems with cheaper mixers. these things have 8 bit res, plenty for just about any purpose, and more precice than any servo you will find.
Posted on: 11/5/2006 12:01 AM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Multi Rotor Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4956416

RE: Building a DraganFlyer - need to mix speedcontrollers - HELP
adi, yes, i know my website is down. the domain was given to me by a friend of mine, and he then sold the company, and it just now occured to the new owners that i was free-loading, and they did not like that. I am really pissed becuase todd did me a HUGE favor in designing that website for me, and i think the only up-to-date copy was on the server (i am a retard) thedinuka: yes, i did put brushless motors on my aircraft, and it worked great, until my motors fried. i was an idiot and waited for a long time to get heat sinks, and they just burned up. so now i have four fried brushless motors and nothing to replace them with. THorn3, here is my ORIGINAL wiring diagram. it worked well, but did not involve my collective pitch or anything. you can add and re-arrange the v-tails to achieve all the mixing you want onto the right channels.
Posted on: 11/4/2006 10:37 AM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Multi Rotor Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4954080

RE: Building a DraganFlyer - need to mix speedcontrollers - HELP
ADI, first of all, i owe you. it turns out that the v-tail mixer outputs are in fact master+slave/2 and master-slave/2 second of all, i am doing fine, but i dont think i will be able to pick this project up again until i get a job. how are you? how's your DF? thorn3, v-tail mixers small devices that people used to mix the elevator/rudder functions on v-tailed aircraft before computer radios. they have a master input, and a slave input, and there are two outputs as discribed above. what it means is that, as you increase the master input, both outputs increase. when you increase the slave input, one output increases and one output decreases. without figuring out an entire configuration for you, (hurts my brain) let's just suffice it to say that you could accomplish everything you want to do with these mixers. Consider them. if you want, i may still have one of my old wiring diagrams if it helps you get the gist of them... if setup right, it will coordinate your entire control system onto the sticks you want. Cheers, -Andrew
Posted on: 11/3/2006 10:14 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Multi Rotor Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4952687

RE: Building a DraganFlyer - need to mix speedcontrollers - HELP
thorn3, just a question. are you using off the shelf components for this? if so, i would reccomend using vtail mixers. my setup used to be a set of 3 v-tail mixers hooked up so that throttle increased all four of them, a pitch or elevator movement would speed one up and slow one down, while leaving the other two alone, and a rudder imput would increase one set of blades, while the blades rotating the opposite direction would slow down, creating a torque effect causing the craft to turn. -Clam
Posted on: 11/2/2006 9:54 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Multi Rotor Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4948549

RE: Building a DraganFlyer - need to mix speedcontrollers - HELP
Howdy all! I'm sorry i haven't been around for a long while. i finally hit that point where things were breaking faster than i could fix them. between structure and motors, it was just too much. however, i did get my pitch control working well. it's just been sitting collecting dust for a while though. what progress has everyone made? while i could not read through it all, i see some new faces and some nice duct work going on. Cheers, -Clam
Posted on: 11/1/2006 11:21 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Multi Rotor Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4944720

RE: I'm about done with this BS...!!!!
i know the feeling. i am 16 and while i have pretty much earned the respect of my fellow flyers through my abilities, i was a rookie too and i got pushed around a lot. There's a name for what you are describing. it's been called "my jock strap is bigger than yours" syndrome. i see it all the time with young aerobatic pilots with big planes. talking to the club president is a gamble. there is a chance that the guy will "repent for his sins" but there is a good chance that it will only make him resent you for challenging his "elite status". just deal with it and dont talk to him, and one day, bring something to the field that is really cool and blow everyone away.... and totally ignore him afterward. if it makes any difference, one day, after you have moved on to some cool plane (although maybe not giant scale) you will be flying comfortably when they loose a plane to "equipment failure" and when you land safely, and come and ask with faked curiosity "what happened?" it will all be good.
Posted on: 6/3/2006 5:37 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4349238

Hitec Spectra Modules
Hello all, I know that the spectra modules will physically work in a futaba 8u/9c (yes, i have tried it), but will it cause any problems over time? they appear to be the same module, and they have the same output power (i think) Any hard evidence one way or the other? -Clam
Posted on: 5/28/2006 6:12 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4325721

RE: Extreme Flight YAK 54
i too get a lot of questions about the 68. good thing the "is that a sukhoi?" questions are going away. people are blown away when they see the yak take like 15 feet of runway, turn vertical and accellerate straight up, only to find it was powered by a 1.10. i am having some troubles with my fuel delivery system, so i am rebuilding it all today. it's run flawlessly though. Perfet idle, transition is good. this is after i replaced the plunger with the 120 one. the stock 110 stuff seems to be trouble.
Posted on: 4/23/2006 1:26 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4200300

RE: Extreme Flight YAK 54
i wonder how many of these are left in the world... i feel like a plane hog. with so few of these left, i have #248 currently flying and the remains of #48 sitting in my closet...
Posted on: 4/23/2006 11:49 AM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4199983

RE: Extreme Flight YAK 54
holy Sh*T! This thread is still alive? i
Posted on: 4/23/2006 1:20 AM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4198874

RE: You are not allowed to shoot them.
how do you put big shotgun holes in an RC plane unless you are flying very very close? unless you are very close to it, the occasional beetle or weed will do more damage to your aircraft than a scattered 12 gauge pellet or two would...
Posted on: 3/27/2006 10:34 PM by Author "Spaceclam" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4091677