FrSky Battery Voltage Sensor
I picked up this voltage sensor to put in my electric LT40 so I could get Telemetry through the D8R-ll RCVR to my JR 9303 XMTTR with a FrSky module. I think it's supposed to buz when the voltage drops below a certain point. The sensor was prewired and is set for Max 5S lipo (I have a 4S lipo) Two wires on one end are connected to the + & - on the battery end of the ESC and the supplied plug is connected to the A1 socket on the side of the RCVR. Instructions say connect to AD1 on the RCVR and I am presuming this is the same! I don't know how else I could set it up - but it doesn't work. Anyone have experience with this stuff?
Posted on: 3/30/2012 8:47 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11021111

RE: NEW DLE30!
[quote]ORIGINAL: cloudancer03 .and my other question is the igntion..they lablelled one lead with tachometer...how does that work ..?? [/quote] Buy an EXcel Tachometer and hook it to that lead to tach your motor!!
Posted on: 8/26/2011 5:22 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10688636

RE: NEW DLE30!
I have been happily flying my 1/4 scale Supercub and Skybolt with the DLE-30 and DLE-55 respectively for some time now and have absolutely no compaints! Love the power and easy starting. I switched to A123 batteries for both with 2- 1N4007 diodes in each Ignition lead. I had a single battery in each plane with two leads to run the IGN and the RCVR, again with no problems. Loved the idea
Posted on: 8/26/2011 5:20 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10688633

RE: NEW DLE30!
The 1" of plywood would work quite well. It is heavy so it will help with the balance as well. I needed to add 1/2" to my DLE-30 installation and I cut 4 - 3/4" squares of 1/2" aluminum and center-drilled them to take the 5mm bolts. I had to get longer bolts but the installation is strong and solid. As long as the mounts are solid and square to the motor you will be OK!
Posted on: 8/24/2011 7:16 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10685846

RE: NEW DLE30!
Having run the engines for a couple of years, I am well aware of the difficulty of pushing on the spark plug cap and I do so very vigorously! So having bought the modules from China negates any warrantee. I guess that's why they sell them for $80 in Canada and $40. in China where they are made. I bought the DLE-55 from an authorized Canadian supplier and the DLE 30 from Jodi! Only the replacement modules and kill switches from China. Oh well - Caveat Emptor! microdon2 - I have had the same problem and eventually had to replace the IGN module after trying to fix it. I now split neoprene tubing and glue it to the cowl wherever the plug wire exits or touches. I usually grind a little divot for the cable to sit in and line it with the neoprene. No troubles since. You can paint the neoprene to match the cowl if it shows too much.
Posted on: 8/24/2011 4:51 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10685665

RE: NEW DLE30!
I have had a DLE-30 converted to V2 and a DLE-55 for a couple of years now and have found them to run absolutely superbly. I had a little trouble with the original DLE-30 and did the conversion only to discover the real trouble was that my FG cowl had cut the Spark lead and although I thought I had repaired it properly it continued to give me trouble until I ordered a new IGN module. From then on everything was terrific. Recently I ordered two RCexl kill switches. I put the first one on the 1/4 Super Cub DLE-30 which uses 1 A123 battery for both IGN and RCVR. I flew it for a few months without trouble. I then installed the second one on the Skybolt and DLE-55 which was similarly wired but with two A123 batteries. Suddenly I found that both aircraft started to glitch very badly. The Cub throttle servo (mounted on the firewall) was jumping all over the place and other surfaces were as well. On the Skybolt (throttle servo inside the fuse with ELEV and RUDD) every surface was glitching. On the SKybolt I had flown it a couple of times that day when I noticed it did a little jig in the air. I immediately landed and on checking found the ailerons glitching slightly but as I checked it got worse and then all surfaces went wild. We checked everything carefully, with experienced pilots, and found that the servos moved a little just as I was turning over the engine. The assumption then was that the IGN module was gone. I removed the Kill switches but still had the extreme glitching. I bought a new IGN module for the DLE-55 and it now runs perfectly. I installed a Smart Fly kill switch in it and it also works properly. I have a JR9303 on 2.4G and have tested all with the 7CH. JR RCVR. I have also tested with the FrSKY 8CH - both types - which have been in use for some time as well, but get the same results. So it's not the RCVRs. I would like to return the two IGN modules and the Kill switches to someone to check them out for me. This stuff is supposed to have a worldwide two year warrantee (I think) but no one will look at them untless they sold them. Can anyone advise? Should I just chuck them out and get new ones? I hope this type of breakdown is not to be expected with RCexl.
Posted on: 8/24/2011 10:44 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10685177

RE: Trouble DLE30 and DLE55
Thanks Robert. I had the throttle cable "fall off" a few years ago in my Supercub and the throttle was stuck about half open. I was flying alone and with that old Quadra, I flew around for 30 min. before giving up and trying a high speed (for a cub) landing. Tore off the gear - so I want to protect against that as well. Also I don't have to use my throttle trim to shut down
Posted on: 8/19/2011 5:19 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10678028

RE: Trouble DLE30 and DLE55
in the module on the Supercub - else I will have to order another module for it as well. However
Posted on: 8/19/2011 3:37 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10677896

RE: Trouble DLE30 and DLE55
Thanks dirtybird. I just received a new IGN module from RCexl and installed it on the Skybolt - guess what!! Everything seems to work perfectly - just as before. I am elated! I will now install the cowl and go to the field and see if everything is still OK after a complete assembly and run-up. If all is good - it begs the question - can a defective Kill Switch damage an IGN module? In particular, is the RCexl "OPTO" kill switch really any good since both mine appear to have failed? I took one apart and all wires are soldered to the same little PC board. I see no sign of an "optical" separation between the battery junction and the RCVR junction - check out Smart Fly for a real optical separation! Guess as suggested by acerc, I'll probably get the Smart Fly and have complete noise separation IGN to RCVR. So does anyone know if this RCexl kill switch could damage my IGN modules??
Posted on: 8/19/2011 10:20 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10677528

RE: Trouble DLE30 and DLE55
acerc - Thanks for that. I had re-charged the batteries using my FMA CellPro Multi 4. I shall check the switches and use a little "switch cleaner" if necessary. I use the "old fashioned "tuner cleaner" and I will check out the "Smart Fly" but right now I am a little kill switch "gun shy"! jezmo - yes it is a "genuine" RCexl module and the newer one with the Tach lead. I am well aware of forcefully pushing on the cap and have instructed others. I have to wear a glove to get it seated as it "hurts" otherwise! daddysam - My batteries in the Skybolt are mounted in the fuse but right behind the firewall. The ignition and RCVR batteries are side by side for needed nose weight. (Possibly a problem!) Wires are run on opposite sides of the fuse. MetallicaJunkie & readyturn - as I said in my blurb - I use two 1N4007 diodes to reduce the voltage to the IGN Module. On the meter it reads about 5.7 volts. DAN REISS - thanks for the letter from JR. I used to do that with the old system but changed with the new 2.4G stuff. I know the 2.4G isn't bullet proof, but I've had no trouble until now and in one aircraft I do have separate batteries, however, I shall take it under advisement. Thanks! BadAzzMaxx - that means 72Mhz and NiCDs and that ain't go'in to happen!! Thank you all for your thoughts. Some things to think about!!
Posted on: 8/17/2011 5:15 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10675212

Trouble DLE30 and DLE55
. I run a JR 2.4G 9303 XMTTR and JR 7 CH RCVR. I switched from Nimh batteries to A123. The Supercub
Posted on: 8/17/2011 2:35 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10675019

RE: NEW DLE30!
I've had similar situations with leaky carb gaskets - or loosening carb bolts. At rest it leaks and the leakage goes black from the heat of the motor when running again. A tiny bit of air leaking in can wreak havoc on top end RPM. You've probably already checked that - but just my thoughts!!
Posted on: 5/28/2011 6:35 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10544743

RE: NEW DLE30!
Thanks Capt'n. They are a little hard to find around here but I can get one on order. In the meatime, I found a Zinger 20 X 6-10 which I'll try the next time it stops raining and we can get out to the field! I've always stayed with the 18" props because they are a scale size for the Supercub. So slowing things down should help. Thanks
Posted on: 5/13/2011 8:22 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10518647

RE: NEW DLE30!
My DLE 30 is running great with a ZOAR 18 X 8 prop. It tops out at 78/7900 and idles well at 18/1900, but it still brings my 1/4 scale SuperCub in too fast when landing. I wonder if I go to a 17 X 8 prop would I get less "pull" at idle or should I go to a 20"? The 17" would really rev up and I don't know if that's very good for the engine. I'm sure it could
Posted on: 5/13/2011 10:46 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10517748

RE: Remove Hatches when Fiberglassing??
Thanks for all that. I was pretty sure that was the way I'd have to do it but thought there might be a faster way. Guess haste could breed waste!! Cheers
Posted on: 5/6/2011 5:54 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10505641

RE: Remove Hatches when Fiberglassing??
Thanks Steve. I will be glassing a sheeted wood wing with about 1/2 oz. cloth. My hatches are already made. I wondered if I should remove the hatches before glassing and glass them separately or leave them in place and cut them out after. That would be the way I'd prefer, but I was worried that I'd epoxy them in place. Someone mentioned that I should cut them out before the epoxy has fully set up. I have glassed wings a number of years ago but they didn't have hatches to worry about. Perhaps waxing the edges of the hatches would help in releasing them should some epoxy dribble in!
Posted on: 5/4/2011 8:35 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10502156

Remove Hatches when Fiberglassing??
When I epoxy fiberglass my wing I was thinking of leaving the various hatches such as aileron and flap servo hatches, in place and then cutting them out just before the epoxy is hard - say when it is sort of "spongy". I'm curious how you guys handle this. I thought it would give me much better hatch lines and blend them into the wing better. Some say they like to remove them and cover them separately and that the epoxy could soak down into the hatch edges making them impossible to remove!! Any thoughts?
Posted on: 5/1/2011 11:35 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10494845

RE: WACO YMF
Boy Stickbuilder - As the Irish say -"You wouldn't jump as fast into my grave". Yes you will find most of the info there. Rich worked quite a lot with me to help me get these built. He has quite a number of good ideas and the site is worth perusing! OK Stickbuilder - you can take it from here!!
Posted on: 4/24/2011 2:05 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10482396

RE: WACO YMF
FINALLY - got my Grimes retractable landing lights installed and operating. This video is hideous - but serves to show them in operation. My camera is very sound sensitive and would pick up a pin dropping in a boiler factory so turn your sound down if you watch this. The lights still have the paint mask on the lens to protect them, but still are quite bright. They are incandescent while the flying lights are LED's. Now to move on to other things. I've been stuck on these for months!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BJ1hG1tMxyI
Posted on: 4/24/2011 9:35 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10482034

RE: WACO YMF
Getting close to the end in my Waco ARE build. But I have a little problem in how to create the strut cuffs or fairings on the removable wing struts. Here is how it is shown on the plans and on the full size. I'd appreciate any thoughts, opinions or methods for accomplishing this. Thanks
Posted on: 4/16/2011 7:44 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10465965

XP9303 Heli conversion
I have an XP9303 which I had Horizon convert from Mode 2 to Mode 1 and make a couple of small changes to make it Acro from its original Heli design. Everything is fine but I was wondering if it is possible to get replacement stickers for the case to correct the names on some of the switches like "Hover Pitch" to "Flap Trim" and "Hov Thro " to "Aux Trim" etc. It would be less confusing and neater than sticking on tape! Love the Heli layout for Acro - hate the labels!!
Posted on: 4/14/2011 11:05 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10462474

RE: XP930-3 Newby
Thanks very much! That clears it up for me. All OK!
Posted on: 4/14/2011 10:53 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10462450

XP930-3 Newby
Just got this XP9303 and can't find how to access/use the two levers on the sides of the XMTTR. Love the radio but really having fun programming it. Everything good so far. Love the servo speed control function! What uses do you find for these levers? Can't find any mention of them in the manual!!
Posted on: 4/13/2011 3:56 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10461014

RE: WACO YMF
That's great John. I read that the "top" was stitched but I couldn't figure out what they meant. This shows me perfectly. Appears to be smaller stitches and closer spaced than on the wing. Can probably get away with not using pinked tape as well but smooth sided tape. I have sheeted the other surfaces (wings, flaps, stab and fin) as on the full scale and currently wrestling with whether to cover them with 1/2oz. FG cloth and epoxy or Koverall and Water Based Polyurethane. Will probably go with the FG cloth as it gives me a harder surface than the poly. These Waco's are so beautifully finished that detail is very difficult to capture due to the high gloss. Even the YMF at my local airport revealed all sorts of details when viewed in person compared to the many photos I have and took. My next job is to figure out how to do that windscreen!@!!
Posted on: 4/7/2011 8:47 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10450322

RE: WACO YMF
There are only 5 fabric covered flying surfaces on a Waco ARE - Rudder - Elevators - Ailerons. The fuse is also fabric covered. My question is - does anyone know it the flying surfaces are rib stitched?? I have a great number of photos of various ARE's as well as my subject one, 20953, but I cannot tell if these surfaces are rib stitched and taped. I am at that stage of construction where I must do this or not. I realize most aircraft are stitched but even closeups do not show any sign of stitching!? Is this unusual? Any thoughts would be helpful
Posted on: 4/7/2011 4:44 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10449802

RE: WACO YMF
Hi RCplanman. Yes I do still have the Supercub! Wouldn't be without one. Flying it on floats... the Supercub cowl. The J-3 cowl was just too small for the old Quadras I used to run. I found a set of plans... you a ton of time over scratching. (Note:In 2002 kenrun@softcom.net) Supercub cowls are readily available... for the J-3 to Supercub BUSA conversion, which is what I use. PM me if you wish more details! My WS is 110
Posted on: 4/6/2011 11:59 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10446977

RE: WACO YMF
jn4dflyer - If you continue to have trouble with the site (I do as well!) I have a complete set of plans and templates I can send you as well as the manuals - new and old! Just PM me your E-mail address. This is what I used to do the build.
Posted on: 4/6/2011 8:13 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10446571

RE: WACO YMF
Cricklewood - you know you're welcome at any time. I'm just making the wing struts now and trying to decide if I should cover the sheeted wings with Koverall and water based polyurthane or 1/2oz. FG cloth and epoxy. Anyone have any thoughts? mrdhud - haven't been flying anything as yet this year. We just lost the snow last week and although some guys have been flying, I find the field much too soggy yet. Land a little too hard and you're in for a nose-over. But I hope to fly her with my buddy Snowball who has her twin sometime in the spring. Be great to see them both in the air together - but question if we'll ever get them close enough together in the air to take a photo!! LOL
Posted on: 4/5/2011 11:06 AM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10444660

RE: Don Smith Cessna T-50
Rich Further to your excellent instructions on creating the Grimes retractable Landing Lights, per our PM's here is the initial installation of the lights in my Waco ARE. If anyone is interested, there are more pix of the ARE shown in the Waco forum as this is a forum for T-50's. But this installation is the same for both aircraft. Thanks tons for your help Rich. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4058627/anchors_10442657/mpage_496/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10442657 - See Post #12384
Posted on: 4/4/2011 1:12 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10442665

RE: WACO YMF
Boy - that is really heartbreaking!! I hope there were no injuries!! A little change of subject here, I've got most of my Waco ARE built now and I have been installing the electrics. I'm particularly pleased with the Grimes retractable Landing Lights. I am waiting for the servos to arrive before making them operational but at least the lights work, and they look like the real thing! I still have work to do on the fuse. I must replace all the side stringers with basswood as the balsa I used has been breaking too easily. I obviously have to install the aileron and flap servos as well. They just arrived this PM. Hope to maiden her this spring. I've been away from building for a while but now I'm back and busy. Gear to finish and wing struts all in the works. Then maybe detail the cabin???- we'll see. Cheers
Posted on: 4/4/2011 1:08 PM by Author "SuperCub Man" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10442657