Spektrum Ultra Micro Singing Servo Noise
Do all three of these ultra micro servos emit the same similar constant intermittent noise? Wondering if the 1.7g & 2.3g linear long throws are quieter than the SMP6832 or vica versa Spektrum SPM6832 (2 used in the UMF-27Q Stryker & 2 used in UMX Sbach) Spektrum 1.7g Linear Long Throw SPMAS2000L (2 used in UMF-27Q & 2 used in UMX Sbach SpeKtrum 2.3g Linear Long Throw SPMSA2039L (4 used in UMX Beast) I have the UM F-27Q Stryker and wondering if those that may also have the Sbach or Beast notice any difference in frequency of emitted noise levels.
Posted on: 4/30/2012 1:12 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11062885

RE: Good First Planes
[quote]ORIGINAL: chuckk2 Today, I'd say that a six channel TX RX is the minimum to start with, unless there are severe monetary concerns. Since I'm quite a bit older now larger aircraft (5-6 foot wings) are easier for me to see and control. Many of the low priced RTFs are of limited use, since they can be difficult to fly in even a slight wind.[/quote] Agree that your recommendation is a perfect fit for your background, but not by a long shot for your average youthful parkflyer that's just getting into electrics. Besides, it's always best for a beginner to first get a handle on the basics with little or no wind. A better choice for just as much fun for less cost is the Ultra-Micro P-51D BNF with fully proportional throttle, ailerons, elevator, rudder. It's a good 4-channel beginner choice for learning in an indoor arena during those dreary/windy spring, fall or winter days outside. $99 for the BNF, plus $43 for the 2.4GHz TX, plus $10 for a couple extra props, plus $13 for a couple extra inexpensive batteries, plus $15 for the AC Charger Adaptor. You are correct in saying it's not cheap even with a relatively inexpensive UltraMicro setup coming in at just under $200, but just as much fun for a beginner as your perfect 21st Century reintroduction to flying via electric power.
Posted on: 4/17/2012 2:34 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11045946

RE: Gens Ace 4 cell 2200 25c
[quote]ORIGINAL: prebres All in all, i would say they make a nice battery. Since I have only had this one for a day or say I can't speak of longevity....but we will see.[/quote]How's it doing now? My guess is that you're just as pleased with it's performance now as when you posted. [quote]I have had to put back in about 1800Mah. With the Gens Ace, I have been putting back about 200 Mah less. I don't know why, maybe they have a little more punch so Im not using as much throttle.[/quote] Right-On. Your Gens Ace 25C rating is at or very close to its continuous discharge label rating. Whereas, some other cheaper less reliable brands have sold packs having inconsistent cell quality with overrated continuous discharge labeling (e.g. 20C instead of 25C rating). Think, I'm correct in surmising that with your moderately hard aerobatics a 4S/2200/25C will deplete less capacity than the same flying style and time using an overrated 25C that is closer to being a 4S/2200/20C? Does someone know if this is true? (this is assuming both packs have identical 2200mAh capacity) [quote]Second, using my same flying style (moderately hard aerobatics) I have had to put back in about 1800Mah. With the Gens Ace, I have been putting back about 200 Mah less. I don't know why, maybe they have a little more punch so Im not using as much throttle.[/quote] Are you saying you were depleting 1800mAh of 2200mAh capacity with your previous Z,Z,eF packs, and were only depleting 1600mAh while still flying for 6 minutes with your Gens Ace pack. How much have you increased your flying time beyond 6 minutes by depleting an additional 200mAh or 1800mAh like before with your Z,Z,eF packs, instead of just 1600mAh with your Gens Ace pack.
Posted on: 4/17/2012 2:21 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11045863

RE: Recommended Charge Rates LiPO
[quote]ORIGINAL: rowekmr Hello, ... what is C the amp/hr rating of the battery pack ... (5s 3300mah 20 or 25C battery)? [/quote] A 20C-25C continuous discharge rating for your 3300mAh pack would be 3.3amps x 20C = 66 amps or 3.3 x 25C = 82amps. Most/all 25C packs (even more so those rated at 40C-50C) aren't really intended to be drained at a continuous discharge rating of 25C if you expect to get at least 100 performance charge/discharge cycles. The ESC/motor may only pull half the discharge rating in order to extend the performance life of your pack. A parkflyer using a 3300mAh 25C pack will more likely than not have an ESC/motor that doesn't pull over 40 amps, or 48% of the continuous discharge rating. This is a general suggestion as the maximum amps pulled and duration depends on the type of plane you're flying and your throttle management. The Nexstar EP ARF comes with a 50amp ESC, so motor/prop pulling 40amps bursts at full throttle should give your EP good performance for many performance cycles using a 5S 3300mah 25C GensAce. Unless you need to quickly recharge your pack there isn't the need to use a charge rate higher than 2C; especially if you have another pack charged and ready to GO. A 10amp or even a 5 amp charger should be good enough for most LiPo Parkflyers.
Posted on: 2/26/2012 12:01 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10976488

RE: new to electrics, charger questions
Why did you buy the iMax B6 without doing some due diligence before purchase? I take it you are possibly having some problem with it or you wouldn't have posted. So out with it ... what's your concern? Assume you at least googled a few iMax threads at RCU before buying your B6 [b][size=3]OPPS![/size][/b] Thanks Jeff for pointing out my obvious blunder ... how to salvage my above reply other than to say I was way to quick to assume that he had possibly already received a troublesome B6 from HK, when a ton of them are being used by satisfied customers. One reason why no one has yet given advice is because there are a ton of threads about the pros and cons of buying HK products including the iMax B3 to B8. I apologize for having jumped to the wrong conclusion that he might have received a faulty iMax B6 and was taking an end around approach to find out if there were any other displeased IMax B6 owners.
Posted on: 1/24/2012 11:01 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10925059

RE: motors, and ESC's, and batteries... OH MY!
Most local hobby stores that are into electric airplanes often stock a wide variety of different planes most of which are carried by HobbyZone or can be ordered by them. If your LHS doesn't have what you want you should be able to order it direct from HZ yourself or have your LHS order the items from HZ for you. Larger hobby stores in your area usually place weekly orders to HobbyZone. E-flite motors, etc won't be cheap, but they stand behind their products unless its your fault. Also, as you do your own due diligent research of all the variety of manufacture products and finally decide what you want you can call HZ and ask to talk to Dan (very knowledgeable guy) who will give you good advice as long as you know what questions to ask so he understands your exact needs. http://hobbyzone.com/ You could begin by doing an "A-10" search which would take you to ... http://secure.hobbyzone.com/GWS1055.html for their recommendation on power plants, ESC, etc. Here's another link with their suggested equipment items ... http://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp?ID=9394001220067 ... You could easily endup with something that is cool to look at, but may burn you much sooner than you'd expect. You'll get much more enjoyment beginning with a gentler RTF one engine plane that is less expensive, a better trainer, and an easier learning curve along an enjoyable electric flying curve. [quote]ORIGINAL: CGRetired I hope you don't feel I am out of line here, but, if I were you, I would get something very simple, meaning a simple single motor/ESC with a four channel receiver (basic four channels) and get into the electric power part of this slowly. Read a lot, both here and at Wattflyer, and get a basic understanding about LiPo packs, ESCs and how they work, brushless and brushed motors, and especially weight considerations.... most important!!!!! Going directly into a two-motor'ed aircraft is not something for someone that has been out of the hobby for 10 years. I've been in it for 10 years and am still weary about electric power. Best of luck.[/quote] [b]A BIG DITTO![/b]
Posted on: 1/24/2012 10:25 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10925117

RE: battery questions
Why would you want to use a more expensive, heavier, higher voltage lipo that probably won't even fit without modifying battery compartment and burn out the ESC/power plant. Try another quality 2S 1500mAh battery and handle/use it with TLC. A 1500mAh pack should provide sufficient flying time unless it is a cheapy brand that has also been mistreated.
Posted on: 1/24/2012 9:35 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10925073

RE: Will This Work (Big Newb Here!)
Being that you are just getting started your relatively inexpensive lipo charger probably doesn’t have digital readouts that can monitor each cell of a 3S pack during charging. I'd recommend you buy a little E-flite cell checker via your LHS. It will get you more familiar/comfortable/confident with monitoring the individual cells and maximizing the life of your lipo batteries. Ideally it is better if you don’t discharge your 3S pack below 3.3v per cell or 9.9v for a 3S pack. You can carry the cell checker in your shirt pocket and monitor each cell after a full charge as well as checking each cells resting recovery voltage immediately after your expended flying time and in the event of the ESCs LVC (low voltage cutoff). http://secure.hobbyzone.com/EFLA111.html
Posted on: 1/18/2012 5:30 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10915969

RE: Best charging solution with current setup?
Hi TakeshiSkunk & Deca (also, read your identical post and thread replies at HeliFreak), [quote]ORIGINAL: TakeshiSkunk What would my best inexpensive solution be as far as charging [Hyperion] batteries efficiently and conveniently? I know I need to pick up a high quality charger, but I'd like to wait on that until I'm shelling out for my trex550EFL setup. Just looking to get the most out of what I currently have.[/quote] http://www.commonsenserc.com/index.php?cPath=32_39 Scroll down page to 21st item to see picture of PolyQuest/Hyperion Balancing Connector [u][b]Adapter Cord[/b][/u] for 2 Cell Packs, $3.95 plus shipping.
Posted on: 1/18/2012 9:37 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10915199

RE: Lipo storage
[quote]ORIGINAL: skatsrc can anyone shed some light as to what amperage I should use when charging my lipos for storage? I have 1800 mah and 2200 mah batteries. Thanks for any help, Sam [/quote] 1.8 amps and 2.2 amps (or 1C) is the generally accepted norm. The more important factor is the storage voltage, not the rate at which they are charged.
Posted on: 1/17/2012 5:59 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10914344

RE: SuperCub B/less Conversion ... WHY ???
[quote]ORIGINAL: opjose You covered the subject succintly in your first post.... methinks that there is simply no more to say that you haven't already addressed... [:D] [/quote] Methinks there is always an exception. What about an aspiring electric parkflyer that rents a room or lives out of his/her car, and only has enough room for just one plane. The steerable nose wheel (second choice) was jest whether a beginning parkflyer or an intermediate club pilot. Pilots that may think the following HZ conversion is only practical for those SuperCub owners that don't plan anytime in the not-so-soon future on upgrading to 4-channel plane, but do want to learn 4-channel with ailerons in the not-so-distant future. They also want to convert to brushless (because all their buddies have outrunners) and they are satisfied spending the extra money on just this one plane (with more power that goes faster and with some aerobatic flare) with no immediate plans of upgrading to a ParkZone plane like the T-28D(or PNP) or an E-flite like the Apprentice 15e. Check out HobbyZone's Instructions and YouTube video for a Super Cub LP with ailerons and clipped wing. http://s3.amazonaws.com/ultracart/im/04D9800F81FA72012D97748B6B051600?AWSAccessKeyId=0P4TXH5AKGYC8WHDZFG2&Expires=1313262881&Signature=mmZFkGOi5y3YTXaJQkiVOHCNbt0%3D
Posted on: 8/13/2011 11:39 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10668948

RE: SuperCup B/less Conversion ... WHY ?
The steerable nose wheel (second choice) was an inside joke for those more advanced and elite flyers that may think the following HZ conversion is only practical for those SuperCub owners that don't plan anytime in the not-so-soon future on upgrading to 4-channel plane, but do want to soon learn 4-channel with ailerons in the not-so-distant future. They also want to convert to brushless (because all their buddies have outrunners) and they are satisfied spending the extra money on just this one plane (that goes faster with some aerobatic flare) with no immediate plans of upgrading to a ParkZone plane like the T-28D(or PNP) or an E-flite like the Apprentice 15e. Check out HobbyZone's Instructions and YouTube video for a Super Cub LP with ailerons and clipped wing. http://s3.amazonaws.com/ultracart/im/04D9800F81FA72012D97748B6B051600?AWSAccessKeyId=0P4TXH5AKGYC8WHDZFG2&Expires=1313262881&Signature=mmZFkGOi5y3YTXaJQkiVOHCNbt0%3D
Posted on: 8/13/2011 11:22 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10668925

RE: Good (or bad) flying habits or set-up?
[quote][color=#000000]ORIGINAL: Lnewqban[/color] [quote]ORIGINAL: guver 5. New habit (probably a bad one) I can take my eyes off this plane for many many seconds at a time. Set the TX down, swat flies, itch bugs, ect. I can talk to people and don't HAVE TO concentrate on the plane much at all. [/quote] [color=#000000]Very bad habit indeed. A plane (slow or fast) is to be flown at all times, even just until a second before crashing.[/color][/quote] Another consideration of guver’s "New habit (probably a bad one)" is that with just the right amount of a slow breeze it’s possible for the FlyLite to almost stay in one place while airborne. That also tells me that guver’s piloting skill (throttle management) with this FlyLite is NOT too bad. On the other hand if the plane was one of critterhunters Bullet Proof Strykers or one of Murdnunoc’s “HOW CRAZY CAN YOU MAKE IT?!?!� (F27 STRYKER) in [i]“the pursuit of making the Stryker run faster, climb higher, and fly better�[/i] then even if you have eagle eyes glued to it constantly and are concentrating intently(can't even talk with a buddy, let alone think about anything else and yet you will still spend more time and money making repairs/mods than guver will with his number 5. new habit. So, in fact guver's FlyLite is being "flown at all times" whereas, a Bullet Proof Stryker or a "How Crazy Can You Make It" Stryker is NOT being "flown at all times" when it crashes instead of staying airborne.
Posted on: 8/13/2011 9:13 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10668789

RE: Good (or bad) flying habits or set-up?
Assume you are using the Spektrum DX 5i or something comparable for this 3 channel slow flyer. So what do you figure is the total cost to get it airborne and what's your third plane? Hope I'm not being too nosey.
Posted on: 8/12/2011 3:32 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10667887

RE: not having problems just want more info.
noticed your mention of 4.8v battery on Gasoline forum with your 'at wit's end' thread. My 2 cents thinks your NiMH has seen better days so it may not even want to hold a 6 volt charge. Thus the problem with your ignition spark. So, if it doesn't want to hold a full voltage charge then the capacity rating of 2000mah is rather irrelevant. Just another reason to transistion from gas to electric flying with LiPo power
Posted on: 8/12/2011 3:23 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10667871

RE: Good (or bad) flying habits or set-up?
This looks to be one easy going assembly project priced right for at a beginning parkflyer. What are your items … brand motor(gear reduction?), prop, esc, servos, what mods, etc. What’s the total flying weight with your 1200mAh pack. Any changes you’d recommend if you were starting again? What minimum expensive item replacements would you recommend for being able to penetrate (handle a little more) some wind or is it about as good as it gets without considerable expense upgrade. Have you crashed yet or had to get it out of a tree's grasp (damage and any repairs needed) THANKS!
Posted on: 8/12/2011 11:41 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10667561

RE: Good (or bad) flying habits or set-up?
[quote]ORIGINAL: guver I would recommend not to use any less than 1000 mah in this plane unless indoors. That's coming from one who knows batts a lot better than planes.[/quote] Shouldn't it be ... [i]"not to use any more than 1000 mah"[/i] of your 1200mAh pack or 84% of its rated capacity. Ditto, perhaps the hardest thing for parkflyers is mastering landings and minimizing bad landings and time/money spent making repairs. If I had it to do all over again I would have spent more time with an experienced parkflyer or maybe (MAYBE) joined a flying club and began my flying curve with a 4-channel electric aileron trainer with steerable wheel. Like you and every other parkflyer the extra expense (quality 4-channel trainer, Spektrum DX, etc) is a definite deterrent from learning what I now believe is the best/right to learn, WITHOUT as much frustration, wrong habits and probably spending less money just purchasing one good used(or even new) 4-channel electric aileron trainer, purchased a new Spektrum DX and learn the right way from an experienced pilot.
Posted on: 8/10/2011 4:23 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10664784

RE: Newbee Propeller question?
[quote]ORIGINAL: jdetray To amplify on what Chris has said, props of the same size are not necessarily equivalent. Among props of the same size, some designs are more or less efficient than others. The differences in efficiency can be important, especially in electric flight. Replacing a prop with one of lower efficiency will likely cause the motor to draw more current. If it draws too much current, you might possibly exceed the rating of the motor, the ESC, or the battery. If you plan to do a lot of experimenting with different props, it is worth getting a wattmeter so you can measure the current being drawn. You may even find instances where a smaller prop draws more current than a larger one, due to a big difference in efficiency.[/quote] To amplify on what jdetray has said, the best prop efficiency is also dependant on the right combination of motor efficiency with battery efficiency relative to the planes aerodynamics and flying weight. Efficiency to one pilot(competitive pylon racers) may be inefficient to another pilot(seeking thermals to ride as long as possible with competitive sailplanes) [quote]A 9x6 prop no matter what kind is still a 9x6 prop. It's still 9 inches in diameter and moves forward 6 inches for every revolution it turns.[/quote]During take-off and a thrust burst there's initially considerable slippage. When cruising with a good tailwind each prop revolution of overall efficiency should advance the plane more than 6 inches. Flying against/into a headwind even with the most efficient prop, engine, airframe, etc its impossible for each revolution of a 9x6 prop to advance the plane 6 inches. Ideally, the most efficient prop is the one best matched to the plane's flying weight, aerodynamics, and most efficient power plant. In the real world of flying nitro ain't cheap. You could spin your brain attempting to determine which prop is most efficient when considering both thrust and speed requirements when converting from a brushed setup to a brushless setup. Much of it depends on your flying preference. Do you want to go 80 miles an hour using a speed prop or just cruise using a slow-fly prop or get the best efficiency from an electric sailplane. Even then 'efficiency' is a balancing act between the prop, motor, battery, flying weight and a pilot's flying temperament.
Posted on: 8/10/2011 3:54 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10664744

RE: SuperCup B/less Conversion ... WHY ?
Was hoping by now at least one well-honed parkflyer might have offered the following advice ... ... A conversion from 3 channel to 4 channel with ailerons and even a steerable nose wheel is a better FIRST and second choice(steerable nose wheel) that makes more sense when it comes to improving a SuperCub's flying performance and improving your piloting skill. A brushless conversion should follow a second or third conversion priority, but even then the expense is better invested in another plane like a T-28 or other 4 channel as you're now ready to move on from the SuperCub to an intermediate or advanced plane depending on your acquired piloting skills and more specific flying interests.
Posted on: 8/10/2011 7:35 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10664039

RE: SuperCub B/less Conversion ... WHY ???
[quote]ORIGINAL: opjose You realize of course that you've removed the ''joy'' of arguing about nuances and idiosyncracies of the plane/electronics, on the forums by going right to the OP's problem! [:D][:D] [/quote] Was expecting and hoping that at least someone as perceptive as opjose would have at least offered the following ... ... A conversion from 3 channel to 4 channel with ailerons and [u]even a steerable nose wheel[/u] is a better FIRST and [u]second[/u] choice that makes more sense when it comes to improving a SuperCub's performance and improving your piloting skill. A brushless conversion should follow a second or third conversion priority, but even then the expense is better invested in another plane like a T-28 or other 4 channel as you're now ready to move on from the SuperCub to an intermediate or advanced plane depending on your acquired piloting skills and more specific flying interests.
Posted on: 8/10/2011 7:22 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10664022

RE: Good (or bad) flying habits or set-up?
[quote]ORIGINAL: guver I got the plane out of the box tonight and am working on it. Sinc this is my ''bad habit'' thread I hope that a lot of my bad habits might even go away with this plane. Everyone seems to like how it flies slow and docile. I think I will really like that and I also like that it is very light.[/quote] An excellent parkflyer beginner choice ... will take some licks, but soon flying again with minimal repair expense. I like what I see about this slow flyer that doesn’t look like a Slo-V with or GWS Slow Stick, but rather more like a plane (MiniCub or SuperCub). Has spec for wing loading of 4.0-4.44 oz/sq ft and typical slow-fly dihedral. http://www.centennialofflight.gov/essay/Theories_of_Flight/Stability_II/TH27G8.htm This is typical for a slow flyer, but it doesn’t mean you can’t modify the wing with less dihedral for improved performance and maneuverability, especially if/when modifying with ailerons for 4 channel. Although, it's probably best/wiser to invest in a nice aileron controlled 4-channel trainer once mastering good 3-channel flying habits. [b]ElectriFly FlyLite Slow Flyer[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/great_planes/GPMA1107.html SPECS: Wingspan: 35" (890mm) Wing Area: 261 sq in (16.8 sq dm) Wing Loading: 4.0 - 4.4 oz/sq ft (12 - 13 g/sq dm) Weight: 7.2 - 8.0oz (205 - 225g) Length: 29.5" (750mm) Airfoil: Under camber high-wing mount Center of Gravity Range: 2-1/8" (54mm) - 2-7/8" (73mm) from the leading edge of the wing Control Throws: Low Rate High Rate Elevator 1/2" (13mm) 14° 3/4" (19mm) 21° Rudder 3/4" (19mm) 17° 1-1/4" (32mm) 29° Like the fact that they have spec’d out the wing area, wing load, CoG, and control throws even if wing load is less than desirable for some pilots flying habits. Don't think the Slo-V and Slow Stick even list those specs. This tells me that Great Planes considers this slow flyer a worthy contender and it looks more like a real plane than either the Slo-V or Slow Stick. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1397023 Probably a good idea to get an extra wing or two when some extra money … http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYJH1&P=M and an extra tail set or two with some of that extra cash flow [;)] … http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXYJH3&P=M Other outrunner options … http://secure.hobbyzone.com/EFLM1150.html http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6547 Checkout this excellent FlyLite build thread by huckleberg … so far thirteen pages of good information ... AOK worthy indicator http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1162073 This 3-channel slow flyer is an excellent ARF beginner choice for someone interested in doing some of the build themself. Another important, but often overlooked consideration is repairing any unfortunate damage ... it's about as easy and inexpensive on this lite flyer(8oz) constructed of AeroCell foam (fuselage) and Pro-Formance wing surfaces as any beginner plane on the market. ____________________ Please do keep posting here as you progress with your build and turning bad flying habits into good piloting habits. Hope this helps get the intent of your thread back on the [b]FlyLite[/b] path.
Posted on: 8/6/2011 12:50 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10658384

RE: Parkzone F4u and Power 15
[quote]ORIGINAL: mark50b A 3s will work, but to get the most out of the Power 15, a 4s lipo is a must.[/quote] [b]AGREE![/b] Going from an 1800mAh to a 2000mAh when converting from the 480 960Kv outrunner to a Power 15 that can consume up to 575 watts when using a larger prop will drastically reduce your flying time unless you are relatively speaking a conservative pilot. [b]IF[/b] that were the case then there's no sensible advantage to upgrading to a Power 15, UNLESS you want to do just a few bursts of unbelieveable show-off performance and then resume flying for the majority of your flight time as if you still had the 480 outrunner. The other thing is upgrading your stock 30amp ESC to handle the Power 15's thirsty appetite without frying the 30amp ESC. And a 3S LiPo with at least a 25C discharge rating. Even then I'd think you'd shorten the life of a 3S when drawing 575 watts for even a few seconds from a 60amp ESC. A [b]4S LiPo is a MUST! with a Power 15[/b] assuming you are going to give your bird a real workout.
Posted on: 8/5/2011 4:32 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10655762

RE: Good (or bad) flying habits or set-up?
[quote]ORIGINAL: acdii I think if you go to a 4 channel you will find flying easier than the 3 channel. You will find yourself not using the rudder unless it's on the ground.[/quote] Don't follow your thinking as the FlyLite by Great Planes doesn't have ailerons, just rudder and elevator (and of course throttle). It sounds like you are suggesting that he might have been better to spend considerably more money and get a 4-channel aircraft like the T-28 instead of the relatively inexpensive 3-channel FlyLite Slow Flyer, which could easily be upgraded to a speedier plane as he is still deciding what power plant to purchase that suits his flight passion for this aircraft. I think you're missing something here. I have the impression what he presently wants is a relatively inexpensive 3-channel somewhere between a micro (like his current FlyZone Albatros) weighing only a couple ounces and something weighing 25 ounces like the SuperCub.
Posted on: 8/4/2011 6:00 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10655800

RE: SuperCub B/less Conversion ... WHY ???
[quote]ORIGINAL: opjose You realize of course that you've removed the ''joy'' of arguing about nuances and idiosyncracies of the plane/electronics, on the forums by going right to the OP's problem! [:D][:D][/quote] I suppose some could arque about whether the stock SC brushed gear driven prop is rotating CW or CCW. [b]OR[/b] whether both the DSM & LP are wired the same [b]OR[/b] one is wired CW and the other CCW. [b]OR[/b] whether the stock prop on the gear driven DSM & LP are both left-handed props or right-handed props. [b]OR[/b] whether it's even worth discussing the "nuances and idiosyncracies" of the motor torque affecting the SCs thrust angle when converting from a mild-mannered brushed 480 to a much torquier(not sure of spelling) outrunner. [b]OR[/b] maybe just how much is the flying time shortened using the stock 1300mAh in the SC LP when converting to the b/less E-flite outrunner assuming the same moderate flying time with both. In other words if the stock 480 brushed flying pattern time was 10 minutes with the PZ 1300mAh lipo ... how much shorter would the same flying pattern be using the E-flite b/less outrunner.
Posted on: 8/4/2011 1:29 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10655321

RE: SuperCub B/less Conversion ... WHY ???
What U think about this? Converting a stock SuperCub LP brushed 480 gear driven setup to b/less direct drive outrunner makes about as much sense as ... converting a SuperCub LP brushed 480 gear driven setup to a b/less inrunner with gear reduction prop drive instead of a direct drive b/less outrunner conversion. Why Is That?
Posted on: 8/4/2011 1:27 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10655320

SuperCub B/less Conversion ... WHY ???
With respect to M9cat’s previous SC b/less conversion and any discussion about any significant change in thrust angle relative to CW vs CCW motor rotation relative to using a left-handed vs right-handed prop ... it probably isn’t all that big of a deal … [b]EVEN [/b]if the stock 480 brushed motor (w/gear driven prop) on the DSM & LP is wired for CCW rotation so the prop spins CW. Being it’s a brushed motor we’d assume it’s wired for CW rotation in which case the gear driven prop is spinning CCW and the stock prop is actually a left-handed prop or pusher prop that’s been adapted for tractor/puller application. However, the motor torque to the airframe is still CW being that the brushed motor is rotating CW. [b]IF[/b] the gear driven prop is spinning CW it means the motor/torque is rotating CCW. If this were indeed the case then M9cat might have some justification for using a left-hand pusher prop (converted for tractor/puller application) on his direct drive b/less outrunner wired for CCW rotation. However, the SuperCub is considered an inexpensive 3-channel beginner plane not a pylon racer or aerobatic plane that requires precision handling by the pilot … in which case(assuming the SC were a precision aircraft) when changing the motor's torque/thrust angle from CCW to CW rotation, then it may make some sense to use a CCW rotating 480 inrunner with pinion and gear drive setup … ASSUMING THE STOCK 480 BRUSHED SC IS ACTUALLY WIRED FOR CCW ROTATION.. The [b]REAL[/b] bottomline question here is: Is the difference in flying enjoyment (3-channel) worth the extra time and expense to convert/modify to b/less even if you can buy most of the items via HK and rob some of the parts from another crashed plane. [b]E-flite EFLM1505 Park 480 Outrunner 1020Kv $49.99[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/EFLM1505.html [b]Custom RC Parts CRCA1021 (A100021) Motor Mount $15.99[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/CRCA1021.html [b]E-flite EFLA1030 30-Amp Pro Switch-Mode ESC $44.99[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/EFLA1030.html [b]ParkZone PKZ1090 Servo $13.29[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/PKZ1090.html Lipo manufacturers have up to three different ways of referencing the three dimensions. ParkZone references the 15C 1300mAh according to its position in the SuperCub LP with relation to the plane’s dimensions of length, width and height as the lipo is positioned in the battery compartment. However, we sometimes think of the width of a lipo as being its narrowest dimension as apparently does E-flite; whereas many lipos are positioned in a plane laying down so the lesser dimension is sometimes referred to as its height as does Thunder Power’s method of referencing the lipo's dimensions. Other pilots/planes position the lipo on its side when the battery compartment is in a narrower cockpit location as apparently does E-flite’s method of referencing their lipos width & height dimension. In order to get at least as much flying time with a b/less mod as with the stock setup a 2100mAh lipo is suggested. However, as you can see below the SC LP battery compartment will not accept a 4 inch lipo laying down. A modification opening has to be cut out of the battery compartment to allow it to extend upward into the plane. So, when referencing the relative dimensions of the Thunder Power 25C 2100mAh lipo shown below as positioned in a modified SuperCub LP b/less outrunner could be … [b]Height:[/b] 4.06 in (103 mm) [b]Width:[/b] 0.83 in (21.1 mm) [b]Length:[/b] 1.38 in (35.1 mm) [b]ParkZone PKZ1033 15C 1300mAh LiPo $23.99[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/search/PKZ1033.html [b]Length:[/b] 2.76 in (70.1 mm) (length of battery compartment to length SuperCub) [b]Width:[/b] 1.46 in (37.1 mm) (width of battery compartment to wingspan width of SuperCub) [b]Height:[/b] 0.83 in (21.1 mm) (height/depth of battery compartment to SuperCub height orientation) [b]Weight:[/b] 4 oz (113 g) [b]E-flite EFLB21003S 20C 2100mAh LiPo $ 34.99[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/eflite/eflite_batteries/EFLB21003S.html [b]Length:[/b] 4.05 in (103 mm) (height/depth of modified battery compartment to SuperCub height orientation) [b]Width:[/b] 1.05 in (26.7 mm) (width of battery compartment to SuperCub wingspan orientation) [b]Height:[/b] 1.35 in (34.3 mm) (length of battery compartment to SuperCub length orientation) [b]Weight:[/b] 6.6 oz (187 g) [b]Thunder Power Pro-Lite THP21003SPL25 25C 2100mAh LiPo $39.99[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/THP21003SPL25.html [b]Length:[/b] 4.06 in (103 mm) (height/depth of modified battery compartment to SuperCub height orientation) [b]Width:[/b] 1.38 in (35.1 mm) (length of battery compartment to SuperCub length orientation) [b]Height:[/b] 0.83 in (21.1 mm) (width of battery compartment to SuperCub wingspan orientation) [b]Weight:[/b] 5.19 oz (147 g)
Posted on: 8/4/2011 12:24 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10655246

SuperCup B/less Conversion ... WHY ?
With respect to another members previous SC b/less conversion and any discussion about any significant change in thrust angle relative to CW vs CCW motor rotation relative to using a left-handed vs right-handed prop ... it probably isn’t all that big of a deal … [b]EVEN[/b] if the stock 480 brushed motor (w/gear driven prop) on the DSM & LP is wired for CCW rotation so the prop spins CW. Being it’s a brushed motor we’d assume it’s wired for CW rotation in which case the gear driven prop is spinning CCW and the stock prop is actually a left-handed prop or pusher prop that’s been adapted for tractor/puller application. However, the motor torque to the airframe is still CW being that the brushed motor is rotating CW. [b]IF [/b]the gear driven prop is spinning CW it means the motor/torque is rotating CCW. If this were indeed the case then there might be some justification for using a left-hand pusher prop (converted for tractor/puller application) on his direct drive b/less outrunner wired for CCW rotation. However, the SuperCub is considered an inexpensive 3-channel beginner plane not a pylon racer or aerobatic plane that requires precision handling by the pilot … in which case(assuming the SC were a precision aircraft) when changing the motor's torque/thrust angle from CCW to CW rotation, then it may make some sense to use a CCW rotating 480 inrunner with pinion and gear drive setup … ASSUMING THE STOCK 480 BRUSHED SC IS ACTUALLY WIRED FOR CCW ROTATION.. The [b]REAL[/b] bottomline question here is: Is the difference in flying enjoyment (3-channel) worth the extra time and expense to convert/modify to b/less even if you can buy most of the items via HK and rob some of the parts from another crashed plane. [b]E-flite EFLM1505 Park 480 Outrunner 1020Kv $49.99[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/EFLM1505.html [b]Custom RC Parts CRCA1021 (A100021) Motor Mount $15.99 [/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/CRCA1021.html [b]E-flite EFLA1030 30-Amp Pro Switch-Mode ESC $44.99[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/EFLA1030.html [b]ParkZone PKZ1090 Servo $13.29[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/PKZ1090.html Lipo manufacturers have up to three different ways of referencing the three dimensions. ParkZone references the 15C 1300mAh according to its position in the SuperCub LP with relation to the plane’s dimensions of length, width and height as the lipo is positioned in the battery compartment. However, we sometimes think of the width of a lipo as being its narrowest dimension as apparently does E-flite; whereas many lipos are positioned in a plane laying down so the lesser dimension is sometimes referred to as its height as does Thunder Power’s method of referencing the lipo's dimensions. Other pilots/planes position the lipo on its side when the battery compartment is in a narrower cockpit location as apparently does E-flite’s method of referencing their lipos width & height dimension. In order to get at least as much flying time with a b/less mod as with the stock setup a 2100mAh lipo is suggested. However, as you can see below the SC LP battery compartment will not accept a 4 inch lipo laying down. A modification opening has to be cut out of the battery compartment to allow it to extend upward into the plane. So, when referencing the relative dimensions of the Thunder Power 25C 2100mAh lipo shown below as positioned in a modified SuperCub LP b/less outrunner could be … [b]Height:[/b]4.06 in (103 mm) [b]Width:[/b]0.83 in (21.1 mm) [b]Length:[/b]1.38 in (35.1 mm) [b]ParkZone PKZ1033 15C 1300mAh LiPo $23.99 [/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/search/PKZ1033.html [b]Length:[/b]2.76 in (70.1 mm) (length of battery compartment to length SuperCub) [b]Width:[/b]1.46 in (37.1 mm) (width of battery compartment to wingspan width of SuperCub) [b]Height:[/b]0.83 in (21.1 mm) (height/depth of battery compartment to SuperCub height orientation) [b]Weight:[/b] 4 oz (113 g) [b]E-flite EFLB21003S 20C 2100mAh LiPo $ 34.99[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/eflite/eflite_batteries/EFLB21003S.html [b]Length:[/b] 4.05 in (103 mm) (height/depth of modified battery compartment to SuperCub height orientation) [b]Width:[/b] 1.05 in (26.7 mm) (width of battery compartment to SuperCub wingspan orientation) [b]Height:[/b] 1.35 in (34.3 mm) (length of battery compartment to SuperCub length orientation) [b]Weight:[/b] 6.6 oz (187 g) [b]Thunder Power Pro-Lite THP21003SPL25 25C 2100mAh LiPo $39.99[/b] http://secure.hobbyzone.com/THP21003SPL25.html [b]Length:[/b] 4.06 in (103 mm) (height/depth of modified battery compartment to SuperCub height orientation) [b]Width:[/b] 1.38 in (35.1 mm) (length of battery compartment to SuperCub length orientation) [b]Height:[/b] 0.83 in (21.1 mm) (width of battery compartment to SuperCub wingspan orientation) [b]Weight:[/b] 5.19 oz (147 g)
Posted on: 8/4/2011 12:21 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10655296

RE: pusher vs puller prop for single motor planes
[quote]ORIGINAL: Montague [:)] Now I'm confused about what is going on, but that's ok, it doesn't matter if I'm confused.[/quote] You are not alone ... So here's what I think is causing the right-handed(puller) vs. left-handed(pusher) confusion. The SC 480 brushed is gear driven so there are two possibilities. [b]ONE:[/b] If the motor is wired for CW rotation then the prop is spinning CCW meaning the stock prop is actually a left-handed prop (pusher designed for puller application). [b]TWO:[/b] If the brushed 480 is wired for CCW rotation then the prop is spinning CW and the stock prop is a right-handed prop (tractor/puller). When converting the SC to brushless you could use an inrunner and say with gear reduction or an outrunner with direct drive. Depending on which way you go you can still use a right-handed prop or Tractor/puller prop as you either rotate the gear reduction inrunner CCW so the prop is spinning CW or you rotate the direct drive outrunner CW so the prop is spinning CW. Reading through the thread again M9cat says ... "[i][b]Well the props were for my Hobbyzone SuperCub LP with a 480brushless,and the other is a FlyZone Select Piper Super Cub with a .10motor,,and yes i tried the prop out on the supercub lp first and it worked fine,no pull to either side,but a slightbit,isnt the fastest prop for the plane but it worked fine.. 10x6 masterairscrew works the best for that setup I found so far..any other advice will be much appreciated.."[/i][/b] So, it sounds like he may be using a 480 b/less inrunner with the same gear reduction setup. That means that if the inrunner is rotating CW then the prop would be spinning CCW meaning you would need to use a left-handed (pusher) prop for tractor/puller application. On the other hand(right-handed) he now knows he can reverse the rotation of the inrunner to CCW so the gear driven prop spins CW and now he has many options for trying out other right-handed, tractor/puller props to his hearts content.
Posted on: 8/4/2011 6:43 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10654746

RE: Good (or bad) flying habits or set-up?
[quote]ORIGINAL: guver I did order my second plane and it'll be easy to fly. It is 3 channel as well and I'll jump in with both feet. [;)] It's the flylite by great planes. [/quote] Besides $55 cost of the FlyLite by Great Planes ... how much do you figure the additional cost for other required items via HK or your preference assuming one already has a Spektrum DX. Would be interested to hear what brand items you'd recommend for purchase such as: servos, ESC, motor, battery. Thanks
Posted on: 8/3/2011 2:21 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10653702

RE: pusher vs puller prop for single motor planes
[quote]ORIGINAL: Montague Hmm, you're right, I parsed red/blue as red/black as there were only 2 wires to the motor which would mean brushed. [/quote] You may want to reread the first part of my post as it is still relevant (see other edited intro ... making it harder on oneself than necessary).
Posted on: 8/3/2011 1:32 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10653640