RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
Rowdy and others, Hope my various mod replies provided some insights as you guys takeoff on your own diverse flight paths[8D]. Thought one of you guys might contest my use of "ruddervator" on the previous post. It was a senior moment accident. I've tried so many mods(presently setup with traditional FlyZone rudder/elevator for 4-channel flying(yep~actually squeezed another servo in the fuse enlarged the boom opening for two control wires and reinforced the boom). I got confused with the older Challenger V-tail ruddervator control. Its replacement, the Aerobird 3, now moves it's two V-tail surfaces in opposite directions for turning(V-tail aileron for a more realistic banking turn) plus V-tail elevator control. Anyway, other than sailplanes/gliders(and inexpensive V-tail boom parkflyers) the only real noticeable advantage of a V-tail for minimizing drag is on a slippery 200mph carbon fiber composite pylon racer. I've been away from this thread for sometime and decided to check it out again. My particular interest seems to be drifting more and more into custom designing/building. Started with inexpensive $25 slow stick kits(brushed and brushless~with an electric combat SPAD coming up on my building schedule. You don't need to go overboard spending too much money in order to enjoy this hobby; while still becoming a proficient enough pilot. The one thing I do know is that I will never ever ever go gas ~ electric all the WAY [:)]. Enjoy the summer, have fun flying and remember to keep it as simple as possible(if that's possible). Happy Trails ~ Swifty [8D]
Posted on: 7/7/2009 9:46 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8913093

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
[u]Two Photos of Interior ESC/RX and Battery Compartment Mod(experimental)[/u] One of my earlier mods was replacing the low voltage tamiya connectors on my batteries and the ESC/RX with Deans. You can see where the ESC/RX is now located for easier access to the Swift's 3-pin aileron, ruddervator, and X-port board connectors. This also allows more room for experimenting with positioning the battery(further back) now that the heavy pusher motor has been moved almost 2� closer to the trailing wing edge. As previously mentioned I decided to move the CG closer to the leading wing edge than the trailing wing edge without adding or subtracting weight. I wanted to experiment with a more central positioning of the weight of the motor and battery while relocating the planes Center of Gravity more in line with a recognized norm. The 2000mAh 8C 11.1V Lipo will fit in the cockpit either on its side or bottom. Its a good idea to fill any voids between the battery and the canopy with a few foam peanuts or tiny bubble cushioning. Flying the Swift as an aileron trainer and electric glider(limited aerobatics) barely warms this Lipo with flight times lasting 12-15 minutes. Again, the brushed 480 and the ESC/RXs mosfet will get too hot to handle using a 11.1V Lipo & 6x4 prop when flying too aggressively. This ESC/RX, motor and battery mod is certainly NOT necessary. Besides it demands a fair amount of intensive surgery by a meticulous tinkerhead. Hopefully, these modifications will inspire you and others along your "electric light bulb" path of flight discovery.
Posted on: 7/6/2009 7:28 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911549

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
[u]Two Photos of Overlapping Fuse/Motor Housing Mod(optional overkill)[/u] The black mark on the top represents the underlying edge where the two overlapping halves were formerly molded together. The motor is almost 2� closer to the trailing wing edge. In the overhead photo you can see where the prop nicked the wing during a rough landing as there's now barely enough clearance between the prop and the wing. So as the wing absorbs some of the impact from a not-so-smooth landing/gentle crash it is forced back toward the prop arc that was still free spinning. At least I've learned to turn off the throttle before its too late [8D]. As mentioned previously I did this mod to move the CG closer to the leading wing edge than the trailing edge. But this bird is still temperamental(or maybe its just me). The wings angle-of-attack, wing load, motor thrust angle, etc, etc, etc provide plenty of challenges and opportunities for advancing our piloting knowledge and skill.
Posted on: 7/6/2009 6:46 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911468

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
[u]Three Photos of Cockpit/Canopy[/u] Secure an 1/8� nylon bolt through the lower battery cockpit foam area with head & nut extending just enough on each side to attach a rubber band to hold the canopy in place during pre/post flight while battery is resting, being charged or stored away (I removed the hold down rubber band under canopy and crossbar as explained in the next post). Use electricians tape over canopy and around cockpit to prevent a loose battery from ejecting the canopy during a crash. You’d think the Velcro battery strap would hold the battery down [:o]. Put tiny bubble cushioning or a few foam peanuts between the underside of canopy and battery for better protection. Where you run the tape over the canopy depends on personal preference. You may want to run it over the middle of your canopy, around and down under if the protruding tab isn't bullet proof.
Posted on: 7/6/2009 6:21 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911278

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
[u]Photo of Motor Housing/Fuse/Wing Socket Mods[/u] Secure a sturdy tie wrap as tight as possible around the motor and housing. Use a pencil soldering tip to punch/melt 4 little holes and widen each just enough with a small flat blade screw driver to accept the tie wrap. Use a tie wrap gun and tighten almost to the point of breaking the tie wrap-so it’s really snug/tight. The smaller tie wrap holding the ESC/RX runs in a gap just behind the ESC/RXs row of 3-pin circuit board servo connectors. The nylon bolt just behind the motor also served to secure the canopy on top of the housing with a rubber band to keep the canopy back out of the way for easy cockpit access when the other rubber band was still attached to underside of canopy and fuselage crossbar. Eventually, I got rid of them altogether, completely liberating the canopy. The canopy rubber band didn’t prevent a loose battery from forcing the canopy open during a crash or keeping it closed tight during flight. Notice how much I’ve enlarged the opening for the wing spar and aileron servo connector in the fuses wing socket. Most all of the wing socket support strength is already molded into the flanged socket/pocket. Also, I shortened the wing spar 3/8� so each wing effectively pushes 3/16� more against the fuselage. There is enough room inside the fuse so the fuse isn’t cramped for space. You can get an approximate idea just how much I’ve shortened up the fuselage by overlapping/moving the motor housing much closer to the trailing wing edge. [b]NOTE:[/b] Needless to say even one of these mods would nullify any warrantee.
Posted on: 7/6/2009 6:14 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911413

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: Dunkelmann OK I see what you mean.  Find a bit of bendy plastic (file a fine groove in it to make it bendier so it can tuck in).[/quote]It just happened to have that particular shape. Don't do any more work than necessary [;)] as this hobby is already labor intensive enough. You may even want to use a thin stiff piece of metal and adhere it with adhesive and tiny bolt/screw [quote]I definitely need a fix for the wings.  What do you think of glueing four ''U'' shapes on the plastic above and below the wings?  Each U would be on its side with the mouth toward the wing tip.  Then I could stretch an elastic band between the U's on the top and one on the bottom.  Not very elegant though.[/quote]Half of the fun is coming up with your own modifications. I will say that I can't remember anyone else(besides me) pinning the wings to the spar, but some have tried various versions somewhat similar to what you have in mind. The biggest problem with all these mods is we should be learning on a more forgiving aileron trainer and with the help of an advanced buddy. Then we wouldn't have to bullet proof our Swift. [quote]By the way what glue do you recommend for the plastic - superglue? [/quote]I used a 2-part epoxy, but check with your LHS as there are so many different types of adhesives formulated for different plastics. It was pulled lose once and had to be reglued, but now I don't crash as often or as nasty. Will try to post some more photos of my mods with commentary.
Posted on: 7/6/2009 4:58 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8911254

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
The Swift provides a wealth of learning opportunities as is or during and after making repairs, modifying and experimenting(welcome to parkflying [8D]). When you’ve lost count of all the repairs and mods you’ve made and finally come to grips with which were most helpful and which ones weren’t you’ve learned some valuable lessons. All of a parkflyer’s trial & error repairs, mods and experiments do serve a useful purpose even if it seems frustrating at times(like Edison and his electric light bulb). [u]1st Photo of Canopy[/u] ~ Remove the hinge freeing the canopy for easier battery and ESC/RX access, remove the inside rubber band & hook, and securely adhere a tab on the underside of the canopy which will protrude into the fuselage just under where the hinge was attached. My photos have too many pixels so I've got to retake them at lower resolution - could only upload one of them. More to follow ...
Posted on: 7/6/2009 12:53 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8910759

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
I forgot to mention something before when checking to see if the V-tail is properly aligned with the main wing and planes vertical axis. Other than making sure the floor is perfectly flat and smooth you will need a couple bricks to support the wing tips when its upside down so the fuselage clears the floor. Then check to see if both tips of the V-tail are equally touching the floor or if there is a noticeable opening under one of the V-tail tips. You can make corrections by loosening the two screws and using a shim the right thickness under one side or the other of its full length. This has nothing to do with the front to back elevator shim adjustment, but rather its sideways adjustment. It may take some trial and error to get it just right IF it does need some realigning. A little misalignment isn't worth the bother so its up to you and your tinkering perfectionist nature to decide if a shim is necessary. If you ever break the boom and need to reinforce it at the control wire opening the above procedure is how you align the V-tail before the epoxy sets up.
Posted on: 7/5/2009 6:40 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8908604

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
When cutting through the hinge cut as close/inline to the edge of the fuselage leaving the remaining hinge tab sticking out from the rear of the canopy. If your Swift is like mine the hinged canopy didn't fit into the front recessed area unless you push it back some. After cutting through the hinge stick the remaining hinge tab under the fuselage when securing the canopy for flight. This allows the canopy to slightly move backwards making for a nice fit into the canopy recessed grove at the front of the fuselage.
Posted on: 7/5/2009 6:34 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8908704

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
You are very wise to seek the training and advice of more experienced pilots. In the long run they will save you money and lessen your frustration(well maybe not money [;)]) as they offer up encouragement and moral support. [quote]I managed to fly for about 15 seconds, turning gently, when it fluttered out of the sky straight down.[/quote] You are certainly not the first Swift owner to have this experience. I equate the HZ Swift to a horse that has the instinct to know whether or not to throw off its rider. It’s almost as if this tempermental plane somehow knows what the skill level is of its pilot. [quote]It looks like the wings had separated from the fuselage and the wing spar had rotated causing the fluttering effect.[/quote] It sounds like you need to make sure all those little screws on each wing half are really tight so that the wing spar opening fits really tight against the spar. Otherwise, the wings will work their way lose during flight to the point of fluttering and then head for mother earth. If the RTF was assembled correctly(wing screws nice and tight) by the factory assembler it takes considerable force just to push the spar all the way into each wing and for that matter it takes a fair amount of force to separate/pull them apart from the spar. [quote]The only damage was that the rectangular slot through which the spar goes is now more like a circle on one side and broken on the other. I think some glue (recommendations?) and some bracing will fix it. … I also need a design for keeping the wings in contact with the slot for them in the fueselage. [/quote] Some have taken the time to reinforce and repair the enlarged spar opening back to its original size/shape, but it will only get damaged again until you stop crashing(which is unlikely until one becomes an elite pilot). I actually enlarged the opening almost 2� long extending on each side of the original spar opening and thru or slightly past the servo wire/connector opening for easier access/retrievable of the servo connectors. I use an old soldering pencil tip for melting away the plastic as it doesn't leave any rough edges like an Xacto knife, but rather a stronger rounded edge. Let's face it ~ every Swift pilot no matter how good is going to occasionally have a bumpy landing or worst. So, it doesn't make much sense to keep trying to return the spar opening to its original itsy bitsy opening. I shortened the wing spar about 3/8� so the wings fit/push even tighter/snugger into the fuselage wing socket. I have one set of wings in which I’ve pinned the wings to an aluminum wing spar so the wings can’t come apart. The plastic spar is hollow so it doesn’t work the best for drilling little holes through it, but give it a try. My pins are located about 1" in from the end of the spar. Again, this mod may be overkill as it may be better to let the wings separate/give during a crash so as to absorb some of the punishment. I bought two of those long yellow headed replacement adjusting screws that hold the V-tail in place to use for my two pins. Again, the downside of [u]fixing[/u] them in place is that if you have a hard crash you may have at least one broken wing(now that they can't give) and/or a severely damaged fuselage and possibly even the ESC. At some point you’ve got to determine whether its worth the effort according to your skill level and willingness to endure for better or worse until you control it instead of it controlling you. Is it less expensive to buy another wing set and change out the servos or buy both a new set of wings and a new fuselage and possibly even a replacement ESC. [quote]I'm not sure whether the battery falling out was a cause or an effect, but nonetheless, I need a better securing mechanism. The canopy closure mechanism seems to have come apart as well.[/quote] The way to keep from losing the battery is to secure the canopy. Actually one of the first mods I did was to cut the hinge so I could completely remove the canopy for easier battery access and replace/check for any dislodged ESC servo connectors. The canopy hinge will more likely than not tear lose any way after the first major crash or a few minor crashes. I use electricians tape over the canopy and around and under to make sure the battery doesn’t eject. I also glued a little catch onto the upper end of the canopy that kind of clips under the fuselage and wrap the tape about 1/3 of the way up from the lower end of the canopy. Did I miss anything?
Posted on: 7/5/2009 3:51 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8908164

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
[quote]By the way the Swift is tail heavy according to the guys who checked it over. The CoG appears to be to the rear of the half way point of the wing at the fuselage.[/quote] Agreed, the Swift’s CG location is not where it should be according to good aeronautical design standards, but the Swift is unique [;)] so those more experienced club members could spend from here to eternity debating/arguing whether or not it's worth your time to modify the Swift and if so further debating/arguing what modifications should be made. Suffice it to say the Swift was not designed nor is it marketed to appeal to advanced/experienced/elite club member pilots, but rather parkflyers. I’ll try to answer your other questions within the hour.
Posted on: 7/5/2009 3:34 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8908085

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
Rowdy, You are the second person on this lengthy thread to have added a little weight to the tail. The other person was an engineer with some previous flying experience that attached a penny to the V-tail and claimed it made all the difference. Also, very early on at the beginning of this thread there seemed to be some agreement that the 7-cell battery be placed as far back as possible, again implying the Swift is already nose heavy enough; thus, logic was to position the 7-cell NiMH as far away from the nose as possible. What makes the Swift RTF rather unique is its CG being nearer the trailing wing edge, implying it [u]may[/u] be too nose heavy with the CG at what is thought to be the more ideal chord wing design location. What has become rather obvious from all the posts in this thread as to whether or not the Swift is [u]too[/u] nose heavy, not nose heavy enough or just right as is out of the RTF box is personal pilot(or novice) preference. In other words whatever it takes to give a pilot a sense of becoming one with his bird. CG location is very critical(especially noticeable on a jet's pitch if not located [u]exactly[/u]), but with the Swift a pilot has to adjust any preconceived CG ideal aeronatics location to this bird's UNIQUENESS. So, there seems to be a tradeoff(most noticeable when hand launching) with the Swift. On one hand (out of the box CG location) it can easily go into what some refer to as a wing tip stall when hand launching and on the other if the CG is closer to the leading edge making it too nose heavy the Swift will almost skim the ground after hand launching as it builds up speed before climbing. Another factor is our human nature not to leave well enough(RTF) alone. When you think about it almost every tinkering modeller on every thread whether here, at RCG or WF starts making modifications to every new RTF plane no matter what the plane ~ whether needed or not. You wouldn't believe some of the aerodynamic and electric circuit board upgrades that some micro pilots have meticulously performed with tender loving care on the inexpensive Mini-XPV that was already one of the best flying little planes for $29. IMO an advanced/experienced/elite pilot that knows how to trim out a Swift out of the RTF box can fly it as is OK(7-cell) without having to add any weight to the nose or tail. Just adjust the 7-cell position to your liking. Some prefer the pointed end of the 7-cell NiMH facing toward the nose and the battery positioned as far back as possible. Whether or not this is advisable(CG is already closer to trailing edge) it does increase the possibility of going into a stall [u]when hand launching[/u] if not trimmed to account for the Swift's uniqueness and/or getting up enough speed before applying too much elevator. It's not necessary or even recommended that you do all the modifications I've done ~ some of which were a great learning experience, but certainly border on overkill to say the least. If we can't fly it as is out of the RTF box then we probably should have bought a SuperCub. The one thing most all Swift pilots(beginning-to-intermediate) eventually conclude is that they wish the not-as-colorful, not-as-cool-looking SuperCub offered an RTF aileron option like the Multiplex MiniMag. The one thing most every Swift owner seems to agree on is that the Swift is not the best aileron trainer, is not as fun as it looks, and is underpowered(especially if your heart was yearning for some aerobatic maneuvering). Upgrading to the 9.6V 8-cell hasn't really ever been advanced in this thread ~ leading one to conclude there isn't a significant improvement in the Swift's performance(plus the increased 8-cell weight up front). My modified Swift's CG is now closer to the wing's leading edge so the plane drops closer to the ground(hand launching) as it picks up speed before going airborne. That's with a $25 5.4oz 3S 2000mAh 8C Lipo powering the brushed 480. I relocated the ESC to the top front of the fuselage opening so I could experiment moving the Lipo further back into the fuselage. Now both the weight of the relocated motor and the battery are more centrally located closer to my Swift's CG which is now slightly closer to the leading edge than the trailing edge.
Posted on: 7/5/2009 12:59 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8907758

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
Rowdy and Dunkelmann, Where do you guys think the Center of Gravity is located on the wing when balancing it about 2-3 inches out from the fuselage. We've gone over and over this before as to whether the Swift is too tail heavy or nose heavy or just right out of the box. After much pondering and experimenting I now agree with the camp that believes the Swift is too tail heavy. As a general rule the CG is over the thickest portion of a planes wing chord or roughly 1/3 of the wings width behind the leading edge of the wing. Being that I have two Swift's and all Swift's are RTF it is my experience that the Swift's CG may actually be closer to the trailing edge of the wing width or at best in the middle of the wing depending on where the battery is positioned in the cockpit. This would explain why the Swift has a tendency to go into an asymetrical stall when hand launching even though the elevator is supposedly trimmed. IMO, the only way a pilot can compensate for a tail heavy(rearward CG) is adjusting/trimming the elevator so the plane doesn't go into a stall when hand launching. So, if the Swift's CG is off (tail heavy) then one solution that can help solve two problems is replacing the 7-cell NiMH with an 8-cell NiMH battery and positioning the battery as close to the nose as possible. The extra voltage will provide more launch thrust power and a heavier battery will move the CG forward. Still the CG was still too far rearward for my taste. I actually modified/shortened the fuselage by cutting into the fuselage and moving the motor housing about 2" closer to the trailing edge of the main wing. This change brought the CG where I thought it should be, but presents another problem. During a crash the prop can chew into one of the halves of the main wing when it becomes dislodged from the fuselage/wing spar as the prop is now 2" closer to the trailing edge of the wing.
Posted on: 7/4/2009 1:31 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8906030

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
Rowdy and others (Happy 4th), Running the stock 480 on 3S Lipo may actually have a shorter life span than the cool looking repairable Swift. I'll add some additional information below about the stock motor and will post a few pictures next week about some mods to my Swift. Anyway your latest post pretty much sums up the flying experience of most all newer pilots that thought they could skip a step in the learning curve and save some money by buying the Swift aileron instead of starting out with the SuperCub and then moving up to the Trojan T-28. If you've noticed about 5/16" of the end of the 480 motor shaft has been grooved machined to better grip and hold the 6x4 push-on prop. This is the same on the motor shaft of the brushed 480 that came with the first PZ Stryker F-27B. The brushed 480 used in the F27-B and Swift are identical in every way. However, the F-27B replacement motor has been out-of-stock for some time. You may still find a LHS that has one laying around collecting dust. Even so ParkZone supplied a smaller push-on prop than the stock 6x4 when pilots converted the F-27B to 3S Lipo. At first they supplied a 5.3x3.3 prop and later replaced it with an even shorter 5.0 prop so the motor wouldn't overheat under the higher 3S voltage when flying aggressively. This works OK for the Stryker because efficient motor rpm prop speed is more desired than torque trust with a sleek delta wing; whereas initial torque thrust is more desired when hand launching as the Swift doesn't have anywhere near the glide ratio of a delta wing. The problem with using the brushed 480 Eflite is that the motor shaft is smooth for using a spinner. Also, the Eflite label says 8.4V to 9.6V. IMO it will handle up 12 V no better or no less than the Swift's stock 480. You may see some specs that say the 480 motor can handle 3S Lipo power with a 6x4 prop, but in discussing this with others I think the only kind of direct drive plane that wouldn't over tax this brushed motor with a 6x4 prop would be an electric sailplane/glider and pilot having a very conservative flying pattern that treats the brushed 480 with TLC from 12V to 10V (3S Lipo) once airborne and riding the winds or thermals. Another similar brushed motor possibility is the 480 replacement PKZ1534 used in the brushed Spitfire. The only thing is you'll first have to remove the pinion gear from the end of the shaft. So, a torquier outrunner may make more sense than an inrunner when converting a Swift to brushless. The problem is that the fuselage is designed more for an inrunner conversion than outrunner conversion. It can cost again as much as the original price of a new Swift to convert to a good quality brushless inrunner setup. Also, a torquier outrunner requires a bigger mAh Lipo(weight) to achieve the same flying time as does a comparable good quality inrunner setup in the Swift using the same flying pattern. As far as using an APC prop with spinner you may lose more than you gain in performance compared to the sleek wider blade push-on prop. John Cunningham preferred modifying the shaft hole of the HZ push-on prop to grip the inrunner motor shaft than using an APC prop and spinner when he converted his Challenger(Aerobird 3) to a Lipo brushless setup for more zippy action. The HZ push-on prop design seems to offer the best of both torque thrust and speed for HZ planes. Apparently better than converting to an APC prop with spinner. One suggestion for helping to eliminate what some refer to as a wing tip stall when hand launching is to first build up speed even if the plane drops closer to the ground before applying elevator for climbing as the Swift main wing already has a relatively steep angle-of-attack. I've found that a rolling ground takeoff is actually easier than hand launching (assuming you can keep the plane going straight on the ground before getting airborne.
Posted on: 7/4/2009 12:04 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8905818

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
Rowdy, I've compared/tested the Eflite brushed 480 and as far as I can tell(except for its exterior appearance) it performs the same as the brushed 480 used in the Swift. So, it would be a suitable brushed replacement motor. The stock motor's torque at full throttle during hand launch(even more so with 3S LiPo) may contribute to what a few others have referred to as a tendency to wing tip(asymetrical) stall to the LEFT, but as you and others have noted it may more likely be the result of misaligned wing surfaces to the fuselage and/or V-tail alignment. One way to check the V-tail is to turn the plane upside down resting on its main wing tips and V-tail tips. Ideally, each tip of the V-tail should be touching the floor. If only one of the V tips is supporting the upside down tail then the main wings are misaligned/faulty or the boom is twisted. The result being a misaligned V-tail to the fuselage and/or misaligned main wing. As you may have picked up in earlier posts powering the stock brushed 480 with 3S Lipo has mixed results. Some have experienced motor overheating and failure after a few flights, especially if you fly aggressively. A scant few have not experienced any excessive overheating to the point of failure. My own experience is to just use short bursts at full throttle and fly the plane more as an aileron trainer and glider and not for performing aerobatics under full throttle or the odds seem to favor overheating and premature failure of the brushed motor with 3S LiPo. I've had the 3S LiPo experience of the stock brushed motor shaft getting so hot that it actually softened the push-on prop's shaft hole, so that the push prop starts free spinning. When this happens your first thought is that the TX or RX are having a communication problem as you lose thrust power. Then when you retrieve the plane the plastic prop's shaft opening may have cooled enough so that when you power up the plane everything seems fine(at first). I use a little spinner and a slightly smaller prop, but whether it's a good idea or not to constantly be abusing these 480 brushed motors with 3S LiPo power & a 6x4 prop is something that only you can decide based on your own HZ Swift flying experience. When bench tested, I figured the stock ESC with the 6x4 prop isn't really meant to handle more than 12-14 amps and then only for shorter bursts(5sec). One reason the Spitfire(uses the same ESC and 480 brushed motor) can be converted to 3S LiPo power is: (1) It's gear driven requiring less motor torque, and (2) Aerodynamically it has less drag than the Swift; resulting in cooler motor efficiency under 3S LiPo power as compared to converting the Swift to 3S LiPo. If you call HZ the tech reps will more than likely advise you that the Swift CAN NOT be converted to 3S LiPo. When you tell them that the replacement ESC instruction sheet says it can be programmed for 3S LiPo they will tell you that was only meant to be used when converting the PZ Spitfire to 3S LiPo. I'll be interested to know how many flights you get out of your Swift's stock 480 brushed motor using 3S LiPo.
Posted on: 7/3/2009 9:14 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8904530

RE: radio for flying wing (elevon mixing)
Everything you need is pretty much the same as the ParkZone F27C Stryker. Here is the parts list might as well GO brushless as its only a matter of a few flights before you will realize the stock brushed Speed 400 setup is underpowered. http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/HZ/parkzone_f27c/parkzone_f27cparts/
Posted on: 1/31/2009 4:25 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8423534

RE: speed 400 and lipo
Hi Jared, The Unicorn parts list shows a Speed 400 6V. The specs (see link below) say it's rated up to 12 volts, BUT there is a major catch—only if it is gear driven to reduce torque and prevent overheating and frying the motor. If you do try a 3S Lipo you will quickly FRY this motor with its shaft getting so hot that the prop hole in the little Gunther push-on prop will likely soften/melt and start to free spin. This prop is already quite small for use with the 8-cell NiMH so it makes little sense to prop down further with a 3S Lipo. The long can 400 will only withstand 12 volts with a conservative flying pattern in a plane under 20oz total flying weight and a 5x3 prop and little spinner. You don’t want to increase the flying weight of your Unicorn so I wouldn’t recommend trying the long can 400 with 3S Lipo even though the sale price of $9.90 is tempting. http://www.hobby-lobby.com/speed400.htm Granted your 23oz brushed Unicorn is underpowered with the Speed 400 6V, but you can still have fun on light wind days with a stock setup before making the jump to brushless/3S Lipo. Here are a couple other kits for comparison as well as a Unicorn site for their brushless setup (Phoenix 35 Brushless Speed Controller and Mega Brushless motor 16/15/4) http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=5482 Swift II Wing (Novice) http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=2658 Mini XR (Inter/Adv) http://unicornwings.stores.yahoo.net/ordering.html Unicorn Brushed & Brushless Setup
Posted on: 1/31/2009 4:06 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8423482

RE: 2 or 3 channel plane for very young flyer?
[quote]2 or 3 channel plane for very young flyer? ... By "real" I meant something that has control surfaces[/quote] I don't know of any respectable 2-channel plane that has TX control surfaces, rudder or elevator? By "real" you have pretty much eliminated 2-channel as a "real" plane. My 4-year old grandson had the most fun flying a classy-sassy little $10 1-channel foamy jet with a fixed rudder that you could bend so the plane would go around in twenty foot circles besides some eye-catching aerobatics. Its flying height and landing was controlled just by the throttle (speed of propeller). The last time we went flying it only got caught in a tree once; while my son and I had to retrieve our Aerobird 3 twice from high-up in a tree with some difficulty. The truth be known you're considering the Phantom as much for yourself as for a 4-year old child. Many of the toy planes at TRU aren't even recommended for someone under 8 years. I know you think a $30 Mini XPV is a waste of money. You have no IDEA how much this little plane has been flown as is and modified(RCG threads) by pilots with more experience than either you or I. The name of game with this hobby is having fun not frustration. A 4-year old child will have enough fun and challenge flying a good 2-channel plane. A 1-channel plane like mentioned above provided lots of fun and was a great learning tool for throttle control, rudder adjustment and even elevator adjustment. Plus, it was a neat little foamy indestructible delta winged jet that a 4-year old could easily hold in his hand not so with a HZ Firebird or Phantom.
Posted on: 11/9/2008 5:30 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8130764

RE: Lipos won't charge
You first need to check the resting voltage of each cell via the 4 pin charging connector. Ideally each of the lipo's 3 matched cells should be within 0.02 volts of each other. If any of the three cells is below 3 volts or differs more than 0.10 volt from the other two than your 3-cell lipo has incurred some damage and may be degraded resulting in shorter flying times as well as not being safe to use. IMO, the following lipo voltage tester is well worth the price. It will pay for itself by giving you peace of mind and extend battery performance/life by monitoring for proper use/care of your lipos. http://www.commonsenserc.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_40&products_id=331 You should consider investing in a GOOD lipo battery charger having digital readouts.
Posted on: 11/7/2008 2:32 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8124119

RE: 2 or 3 channel plane for very young flyer?
[quote]I am thinking about getting my 4-year old son a "real" plane.[/quote] Do you honestly think you're going to find a "real" plane for $80.00. The Mini XPV is the best choice for the least expensive and respectable two channel foamie. It is “real� enough for a 4 year old as well as a 70 year old kid. For $80 you can get two so both of you can do some combat flying. This little plane is best flown in winds under 5mph; which would be the norm for any plane flown by a 4-year old child. The best 3-channel plane under $80 is the HZ Phantom, but you'll need a larger park/field, and the chances are greater that the plane can get too away from him compared to the Mini XPV [size=1] http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=907 [/size] The following recommendation is from Fisher who posts on Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft. The original post is a couple years old, but still relevant. [size=1] http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=profile&forum=1&memid=125967[/size] [color=#0000CC]"So I go out an buy another XPV Mini and give it to this 70 year old guy who just bought a $100,000 dollar Audi Sports car (the one they advertised during the Super Bowl). I get a call from him the other day and he is talking about how cool his new car is. He presses a button on the dash and the headers open up and the whole car lowers for sport mode etc....... Once he is done telling me all about how wicked cool his car is and how much he likes it he gets a bit sheepish and tells me that he has just as much fun flying the XPV Mini I gave him as he does driving his car. My son and I got a chance to fly our XPV Mini’s inside a medium sized gym the other day. What a hoot. This is the first plane I have owned that could be easily flown inside a gym. Between the two of us we covered most of the air space, let several other people learn to fly and then chased each other around for a while, all on a single charge. You have to grab one of these planes next time they go on sale for under $20! Even at the regular price around $30 they are a real good deal. Well over 100 flights with the Mini XPV and still loving it. Everyone needs one of these. I have taught several people to fly with this plane. It is very capable for a two channel under $30 model. Can even handle wind. I could not be happier with it. Unlike the AAs[AeroAces] I have purchased in the past this thing is indestructible. The stock AA[AeroAce] is useless in anything but calm conditions. The range on the TX (49 mhz) is great as well. I can fly it out so far that I cannot tell orientation very well."[/color] [size=1] http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5484241/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jbclue6KWkg&feature=related http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZ1dcGb2Kwg&feature=related[/size] The biggest complaint is that of quality control, but what can you expect for $30. So, carefully unbox it just in case you have to exchange it for another. Check out this thread - [size=1] http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=804998&highlight=mini+XPV [/size]
Posted on: 11/7/2008 1:59 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8123944

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
You can have the circuit board too as I don't know which component failed, but first you should call HZ again. They are pretty good about keeping customers happy. They just may extend you another grace or at least a price break on another Z10. If not then send me a PM with your address and I'll mail it to you. You've really got to polish up on your Tx deft finesse [;)]
Posted on: 7/13/2008 5:49 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7726691

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: Fourtypluskid Hello, I was wondering if anyone has replaced the slide poteniometer on the Swift's ZX10 controller? It is a single 3 pin 10K ohm linear poteniometer and I would like to find a replacement that fits in the PC board. Thanks. [/quote] There are seven soldering points (4 bracket & 3 electrical). I have a bad circuit board with a good slide pot. How do you suggest I melt/liquify all 7 solder points at one time so the slide pot can be removed. If you are that forceful with the pot then you need to resolder all 4 support posts. I won't cut off the four bracket posts (2 on each side).
Posted on: 7/13/2008 3:03 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7726187

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
The Swift is designed and marketed(Z3) for more experienced pilots. The uniqueness of the Swift can be very frustrating for a beginner. Odds are you'll receive more flying frustration than enjoyment plus the cost of replacing damaged parts and time spent making repairs and/or modifications. You will have more enjoyment and less expense with a HZ Phantom or an EasyStar. If you have already purchased the Swift I would strongly recommend you return/exchange it and get the 3 channel HZ Phantom or the Aerobird 3 for your journey through the learning curve.
Posted on: 7/13/2008 12:19 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7725630

RE: Hobbyzone Phantom
Is this a thread about the HZ Phantom [;)] ? 1. Anyone think the ACT is helpful - not helpful? 2. Anyone tried the little 8 cell 9.6v battery? 3. Anyone tried flying with a pro-tail mod?
Posted on: 7/13/2008 11:33 AM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Electric Training"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7725496

RE: Badius Owners Club III
This winter when its below zero I'll be wishing I was flying under a sunny Florida sky. What about a Florida Flying Field Invitational once you get settled and your field groomed [:)]
Posted on: 7/10/2008 2:00 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7715098

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: notfamous I just ordered the F27c esc and motor for the swift but will probably buy a F27c body soon as well. ok, so I've got an extra F27c motor and esc. The motor doesn't just drop in so i've got to find a way to make sure it sits tight. This is going to be scary...hopefully fun while I wait on t-28 parts (motor mount) I am now putting the Stryker F27c motor and ESC in to see how it works for me. (see photos below for using tiewrap as suggested by aeajr-"I put a tiewrap around the motor to provide some support.") Also works on AB3 [quote]ORIGINAL: The Mongrel I would not recommend this plane FULL STOP! It is CRAP! When you compare it to what else is available on the market, and the EASE in which they fly, (The CUB or BEAVER as an example), how could anyone recommend this pile of poop![/quote] [quote]ORIGINAL: DaxFX hi guys!! back from the dead!! I see that some of you still having problems !! well my Swift is a cool bird that still working exellent and I still having lot of fun with she !![/quote] [quote]ORIGINAL: DaxFX hey man I think a good condition motor propertly broke in have exellent power ! I am just on 7 cell and I can fly exellent now just like the hobbyzone vid. at begining I doubt on those vids claim to be all stock but after my wing replacement ! man my swift is a blast .. i got today 2, 8cell 600 mah batteries that i will try out tomorrow. here in Puerto Rico all morning are perfect to fly. I flew 8 days a week (on mornings ,, after 10:00 am just cant) give a try to that motor you wont lose anithing just by try it. after all my frustration at begining with my swift I never surrender and now is one of my favorite park flyer from my collection (my Dynam Focus still #1)[/quote] [quote]ORIGINAL: DaxFX hello guys! its a wile without posting here! so from last time to today I have flew my SWIFT without any more problems! I ordered some 8 cell batteries 1400 mah and she is flying exellent , very satisfied with my swift. after all lost of hope at beggining and change main wing put on 8 cells is a blast I love it. and if it get damage anyhow i will buy another. i got exellent slope with swift and frome time to time some rolls and loops and basics aerobatics. is an exellent hybrid plane slope/stick pusher. with some kind of aerobatic capability ![/quote] [quote]ORIGINAL: DaxFX look in the sky is superman,,,, no is a bird,, no is my SWIFT...... YEAH baby she flew perfect , some rolls, turn of the motor and she glide like a comet .. perfect landing by gliding down wow I start to love my swift again after 6 month without use ! everithing stock on tenergy 8 cell battery ! at full thrule she start climb a little without elevator (2 clicks on trim and perfect fast forward) , at half thrutle perfect leveled . just like she suppous to be . you can belive me the I forgot to check where was the CG but looks like is perfect balanced..[/quote]
Posted on: 7/10/2008 12:31 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7715003

RE: Official Aerobird Swift Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: Rob68 -Will a completely STOCK Aerobird Swift have the power to loop from level flight? [/quote] It helps if you use the optional 8 cell 9.6v NiMH. http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/HZ/hobbyzone_swift/hobbyzone_swift_parts/PKZ1023.html [quote]tam popo For other Swift owners who have a dead Swift or want fun (remember that??) take a Stryker body ($35?), make balsa fins and elevons, stick the stock brushed 480 into the rear of Stryker, add the elevons and a V-Tail mixer ($10) and a 1500 3S lipo - stir well, paint to taste, add the PZ/HZ RX and TX......then FLY. I did it and never looked back. (there might be a few extras like canopy etc but if anyone wants detailed info let me know).[/quote]The bare Stryker fuselage PKZ1267 only costs $19. Foam fins PKZ1220 cost $8. Elevons w/control horns PKZ4233 only cost $4. Fin Retainers PKZ1221 $1.60. Clevis & Pushrods PKZ1218 $2.50. Motor Mount PKZ4234 $5. Complete Hatch Set PKZ4213 $8. Decal Sheet PKZ4203 $6. What ESC/Rx do you recommend using and what brand/size prop works best with a 3S Lipo?
Posted on: 7/5/2008 1:17 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7696564

RE: ????astro blinky????
Similar Balancer with voltage tester [8D] http://www.commonsenserc.com/product_info.php?cPath=45&products_id=549
Posted on: 7/3/2008 12:42 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7689809

RE: New foamy advice
[quote]If you get one that does not fly well out of the box return it for another.[/quote] When first opening package do a bench test to see that both motors/props free spin the same length of time before coming to a rest after throttling down? If one stops noticeable sooner than the other exchange it for another. Also, check for same change in sound pitch when activating a left turn and a right turn. Apply a light coat of 3-1 oil on each motor's shaft bearing as its spinning during your bench test. Be sure to immediately remove any fine dried weed strings that may get wrapped around the motor's shaft from landing in brush, weeds, grass, etc. Also, available at ToysRUs for $30.
Posted on: 7/3/2008 12:18 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7689723

RE: Official Hobbyzone Aerobird 3 Thread
[quote]ORIGINAL: notfamous I tried lipo on the swift and I guess something blew b/c not the motor runs full power whenever a battery is plugged in. I would like to lipo the AB3 but I'm afraid the same thing might happen. I am aware of programming the LVC but is there something else I need to do before running the lipo? [/quote] 1. The ESC/Rx used in the Swift and AB3 isn't designed to handle more than 15 amps and then only for short bursts. The ESC is probably rated closer to 12 amps with 3S LiPo. As JC mentions higher 3S voltages are not conducive/friendly to the components in this ESC. 2. The inexpensive 380 brushed can motor used in the A3 can't handle 11.1v from a 3S LiPo without frying. 3. The inexpensive 480 brushed long can motor used in the direct drive Swift can only handle short bursts from a 3S 11.1v LiPo. Even then the motor will tend to overheat with any aggressive flying. 4. One reason the Spitfire's 480 can handle 11.1v of LiPo is because its gear reduction drive doesn't draw as much amperage. Also, the Spitfire's aerodynamic drag is less than that of the Swift. 5. Those that have converted the SuperCub to LiPo with success also use a smaller prop to prevent the 480 motor from overheating. 6. When the Stryker F27B (480 motor) was still available and owners were converting it to LiPo PZ started selling a smaller prop (5x3 vs 6x4) for LiPo conversion. My A3 modifications (LiPo & 480 motor) extend the flying time with my conservative flying patternlike that of an electric glider. It also provided more thrust (for short bursts) when needing to take on some wind, so the plane didn't get away from me. My definition of a short burst as it relates to my A3 conservative flying pattern at 3/4-to-full throttle (3/4 = no more than 10sec. full = no more than 5sec). Remember, that HZ V-tail boom planes including the A3 and Swift are relatively inexpensive RTF planes. At some point in your progression you need to make the jump to brushless (e.g. PZ T-28 Trojan, E-flite planes, Hangar 9 planes, etc) instead of spending too much time and money modifying a relatively inexpensive RTF V-tail boom plane.
Posted on: 6/25/2008 5:20 PM by Author "Swift427" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7660430