RE: anyone near byron,il
You'd be in IMPBA District 4.... There are several clubs in Illinios that area that you can contact to find fellow boaters near you. [;)] One is: District 4 Director Paul Bychowski Elk Grove Village, IL 60007 (847) - 593 - 7769 gooycheese@comcast.net Another is: Illini Powerboaters Joliet, Illinois illinipowerboaters@sbcglobal.net President: Terry Flynn Channahon, IL 60410 815-467-0973 Terflynn31@aol.com Marquette RC Boat Club Midlothian, Illinois Or: President Joe Kratky Hickory Hills, IL 60457 708-598-7524 spt40boat@yahoo.com Or: Minute Breakers Model Boat Club Mendota, Illinois President: Larry Gemp Sr. Berwyn, IL 60402 708-749-9017 gempster@aol.com Or: Quad City Rooster Tails Milan, Illinois http://www.geocities.com/pmrac President: Mark Voorhies RockIsland, IL 61201 309-794-1106 pmrac@yahoo.com Or: Summer Thunder R/C Model Power Boaters Countryside , Illinois President: John Kubitz Lombard, IL 60148 630-495-1829 kubitzjl@att.net
Posted on: 11/17/2009 3:09 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9260541

RE: Traxxas Pro.15 marine engine
I see no one has replied to you yet, so thought I'd chime in for you. I did a search on the 'net and the Traxxas website w/no luck. If you really want the engine's specs, I guess you'll have to call their support number at -888-TRAXXAS.... but for what it is worth, it has been pointed out that the power/RPM claims published by engine mfrs are NOT fully accurate.... so trying to compare engines on this basis is like trying to choose between two liars... you'll have to decide who is lying more. [:D] Also, for what it is worth, an engine guru cant often tweak your engine for you and get you more performance (cost is usually a little under $100 from what I've been told). Or you can replace the engine as you are thinking. Like everyone else, I'm guessing you want to go faster [:)] - how much faster??? (And know that if its alot faster, you'll probably be wanting to go faster than the hull itself can reliably run at, which means you'll have to look for anoither boat AS WELL as another engine - just an FYI).
Posted on: 11/16/2009 12:22 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9257710

RE: waxing hull...or sanding?
I've done a bit of reading on reducing hydrodynamic drag over the last year. For what it is worth, it appears that small shallow grooves DO help reduce drag (vs a plain flat surface) and this has been tested and proven since 1948. Here is an article from the British Maritime Technology that calls these grooves "riblets: http://www.springerlink.com/content/p8746pq28732p1t5/ Here are some more related links to abstarcts from MIT and Harvard: http://oe.mit.edu/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=14&Itemid=140 http://adsabs.harvard.edu/abs/1989nasa.reptR....R
Posted on: 10/28/2009 1:48 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209447

RE: .12 Rigger Kits for CHEAP!
I've been (on again - off again) researching ways to eliminate drag on my boats. Here is a link that compares the drag for various shapes (elipses, cones, spheres, squares etc). It'll explain the ideal shape for your sponson and tub front pieces. http://www.aerospaceweb.org/question/aerodynamics/q0231.shtml And for those that are challenged (I'm included here [:D]), the shape with the least drag is shape #2, which is just slightly different than shape 3 (can you see the difference?). Shape 2 does a better job of creating a "turbulence layer" (as opposed to "laminar layer") and as a result reduces "skin friction" that occurs as air (or water) flows over the surfaces of your tub or sponsons. I tossed these terms out, not because I'm a scientist or engineer, but to give those who want to learn more some terms to study up on if they want to try reducing drag. Oops - just coorected the link. [:D]
Posted on: 10/22/2009 4:56 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9193910

RE: LEAKING DUMAS 1930 CHRIS CRAFT
I'm out of my depth here, but wouldnt some of the various home improvement caulking/sealants work here. I just bought some that was clear and dries hard and is waterproof so if they are hairline it would show up. Just put tape on each saide so excess doesnt get on the wood, use your finger to press into the cracks, remove tape & let dry. BTW I'm not telling you to do this, I'm posting it as a question!! [:D]
Posted on: 10/22/2009 1:32 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9193660

RE: AquaCraft .15 Marine
Ron, you'd love the lil .12 roundnose in our club. It was built by Chuck Geisen over WI (there are IW pics of it - it is greyish-silver w/black striping). He sold it to a friend of his in our club who has gotten it running, and raced it the last 2 races of the yr.... with our .12 riggers!! The thing just keeps getting faster. The last race of the season it was running typically in 3rd or 4th place each race out of 6 boats. Chuck's busy building another I hear....
Posted on: 10/21/2009 8:51 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9192002

RE: .12 Rigger Kits for CHEAP!
Solex, Ron is right - install your stuffing tube FIRST, and bend to shape. Then attach your ski. The top rear end of the ski should be flush with the end of the transom - not with the overhang... if built right. But more important than where your ski ends - is making sure that the ski placement is such that when the sponsons are attached the tub sits level. Here is a pic for you:
Posted on: 10/20/2009 2:48 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9188493

RE: .12 Rigger Kits for CHEAP!
Solex, what did you by this: "My next question will be the location of the skid now.. with the lip in place. Do I go to the transom or 1/8 out to the lip? but I have plenty of time to think that over I guess.... " I was confused by your question. [:)]
Posted on: 10/19/2009 6:10 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9186080

RE: Wild thing building
Mineralvan, You're goals are set pretty high as a 1st time builder (I'm referring to the "jet power"). As for question 1), I was shown a slick method. There is a product called Mylar (a thin flexible, see-thru plastic material). Lay it over the plans, trace out the parts on the Mylar, and then cut out the templates with a scissors or x-acto knife. The Mylar is just thick enough to give your pencil a nice edge to draw against, and you can keep them in case you need to make some replacement parts and you can put away original your paper plans and keep them in good condition. In my not-experienced-opinion, taking a boat design/plans and then changing them before you've even tried the original intended boat is asking for problems. Most boat plans have quite a bit of testing & refinement put into them to get them to work well. By making changes, you may end up taking what would have been a perfectly good running boat and creating something that causes you endless frustration. Just my thoughts....
Posted on: 10/19/2009 1:15 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9185413

RE: carb help
Another choice for small adjustemnts: You lengthen/shorten your linkage lengths by turning your clevis' on the threaded linkage rod. [:D]
Posted on: 10/18/2009 12:36 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9182792

RE: more hlep???
I suspected as much (not knowing about Rod [:D]). He is in the IMPBA Hall of Fame; started RC boating back in the 50's; has won something like 17 US Championship racing titles; the motors he's modded have put countless racers in the record books; and still works on @250 engines a year for people running cars, boats, planes etc. He's also spent countless hrs mentoring people in the RC hobby.... as I said, he kind of a legend, :D] and a hell of a nice guy. I KNOW 'cause I've met him a few times, and have been lucky enough to learn some of what he knows. [;)]
Posted on: 10/15/2009 11:35 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9176977

RE: Please explain drive systems
I see no one has responded to you yet, so I'll try to help. [:)] Most boats use a "flexshaft" (a braided metal rope for lack of a better term) that is in turn soldered on onto a solid metal prop shaft. You buy them seperately or already soldered together. The flexshaft runs thru brass tubing from the engine back to the strut (which mounts on the transom and holds the propshaft in place). Marine grease is used to reduce frcition and keep out water. On the engine side, the flexshaft slide into the engine's driveshaft and there is a collet (special nut) that is snugged down with a wrench and pinches onto the flexshaft so it doesnt slip. As for engine alignment w/the brass tube, I'll leave that for someone more experienced (I have only built 1 boat, so I'm no expert). However regarding your boat that is binding, is it a vertical or horizontal alignment problem (or both)??
Posted on: 10/15/2009 3:10 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9175752

RE: more hlep???
Andy, it might seem counter intuitive, but you want the engine to get hot (to a point). The heat does 2 things: allows the metals in your motor to expand properly (vs premature wear & friction) and to produce the power they are capable of. In a car etc set up you're running the engine in a fairly enclosed space under a lexan cover - they get HOT, hence the big fins for cooling. In most boating applications the engine gets more air passing over the engine, so you dont need the extra fins for cooling. Ron suggested you look at Rod's engines to get an idea.... as an FYI (if you didnt know it), Rod is something of a legend and knows more about motors than most anyone else. [;)]
Posted on: 10/15/2009 2:28 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9175642

RE: prop help
Andy, my boat was built from plans (had to cut my own parts etc); Ron Olson on here is building one of the kits.... but I'm pretty sure the kit is easy to build (it was intended to be). The Traxis motor will be fine to run. I'm also chuckling about your "too radical" comment.... once you get the motor broke in (if its new), pipe & prop working together, you'll have a quite fast little boat. My 1st boat (.15 Miss Bud) probably ran 30ish. My .12 rigger is WAY faster (like 20 or more MPH). OOPS... I see Ron was typing when I was, and he posted first[:)]
Posted on: 10/14/2009 1:20 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170564

RE: O.S. .12CV in a JAE 12G
DR Fosgate: Rod Geraghty shared this piece of wisdom w/me.... what happens when you put your finger over a water hose.... squirts harder and farther dont it?! Carbs works in the same way.... a smaller bore will draw fuel harder. But then again, Rod made it clear that nothing is an absolute (thats like asking, "How hi is the sky Todd?" [:)]) I've been told @.280 bore for a Novarossi .12 (mine came with a .250) is about optimum; but comparing a slightly modded NR to your engines is apples to oranges. Try 'em both and see what happens! [:D]
Posted on: 10/14/2009 1:13 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9172747

RE: prop help
A strut that handle a 3/16" propshaft [;)].
Posted on: 10/14/2009 12:26 AM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9171626

RE: prop help
I read on your other thread that you are going w/a JAE rigger. If so, you dont want to start w/a x440 (I've been running a pre-release version all summer). Best prop to start with is a 1440 backcut and reduced to about 37.5 mm. Mark Sholand at props4u did mine and the cost was about $45. I didnt test other props this year (didnt need to - it was already fast enough to win club races). This winter I will be mtrying my hand at making up some props to test next yr.
Posted on: 10/13/2009 2:20 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9169985

RE: Re-attaching an antenna
This probably aint gonna be much help (different receivers), but I had to resolder mine onto the circuit boad too (Futaba 133 reciever). Luckily there was some wire still attached to the board for identication! The place it attached to was the first silver fitting in from where the wire ran thru the reciever case - directly inline with the hole in the case for the wire to pass thru - and the silver fitting was different than many of the other options - was a small @3/32" square shape. I also remember the solder was piled up (like a hill or hump) on the square (from the factory attaching the wire). I filed this down before reattaching the wire. Maybe that will help? [:)]
Posted on: 10/12/2009 1:38 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9166813

RE: .12 Rigger Kits for CHEAP!
Cooperfly, was that a rhetorical question? [:D] At a bare minimum 1-Solinger Engine Mount $10 + shipping 1-Solinger Rudder Assembly (w/o water pickup) $20 + shipping 1-Tower Hobbies GrimRacer Turn fin $18 + shipping Other brands of hardware can set you back more.
Posted on: 10/12/2009 1:12 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9166752

RE: 20 speedmaster mono
Our club runs a mono class and a speedmaster not only won consistently, but was also high points for the year (and he missed a day or was it 2 of racing because he blew a con rod).
Posted on: 10/8/2009 1:11 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9156480

RE: .12 Rigger Kits for CHEAP!
[quote]ORIGINAL: mb1387 Ron, is the hardware just for that boat or is it uni. [/quote] Solinger's hardware was created for the JAE w/input from Rod. They wanted to come up with inexpensive hardware for the JAE. The .12 JAE engine mounts are $10 and the rudder assembly is $20. I used the Solinger engine mounts all summer; the rudder I use is a cheap China set up for $16 off eBAY (Solinger hadnt come out with his rudder package last winter when I put together my rigger). The Solinger rudder doesnt have a built in water pickup.
Posted on: 10/8/2009 12:48 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9156435

RE: 1/4 turn latches
If you ARE interested in magnets, you'll find a good range of options at K&J Magnetics.
Posted on: 10/7/2009 5:09 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154521

RE: redneck telemtry but it works
[:D]
Posted on: 10/6/2009 1:19 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9151327

RE: Miss Elam?
I think toyotatruckin here at RCU said he had some Go engines for sale... try PMing him. Plastic props break all the time; cavitation.... have no idea, better for someone more knowledgeable to comment. 168 temp - too cool (IMO)... try restricting the water with a zip tie on the water pickup tubing and read your plug after some hard running. Car fuel, I've read (never messed with cars) they dont offer enough oil content. I believe the fuel I run is about 18% oil.
Posted on: 10/5/2009 3:06 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9148644

RE: prop rework
For what it is worth, on my .12 rigger, Mark Sholund (props4u) sold me a "backcut" 1440 prop.... and I remember him mentioning that the backcutting took lift out of the prop.
Posted on: 10/5/2009 2:47 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9148601

RE: Dumas Lil Rascal by a newbie...
REALLY, REALLY NICE!!! As an FYI, one of the guys in our club races one of these (yes, it is the slowest boat in our .12 hydro class), but he will be high points winner again this year. He never crashes and always finishes! I offered to give him my .12 JAP hull (am building another over the winter), and he politely turned me down! [:D] [:D]
Posted on: 10/2/2009 12:45 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9141316

RE: Would this be good for me as my 1st r/c boat?
[quote]ORIGINAL: toyotatruckin Im 100% with ron, riggers are Never a good idea as a first boat, Ive sold a few and can say this with first hand knowledge, even some guys used to running boats foul up with rigger set-up, like to also say that some people catch on rather quickly and can run them right out the gate, miss vegas, tc31,deuce, if you would like to build one aeromarine makes great hulls and the people around here would have no problem pointing you to whats needed to slap one together just gotta ask for help and let people know what your trying to do with the boat [/quote] I rarely (never [:D]) disagree with Ron O or Toyota.... but this is one time I do (in a single respect). As a general statement, a rigger as a first choice as a poor choice I dont disagree. But the JAP/JAE is an exception. And I am speaking from my own experience building one from plans - NOT a kit (which should be even easier). As Rod has stated numerous times, it was designed to be an inexpensive, easy-to-build boat to get more new boaters into the RC Boating. The things that make other riggers challenging just DONT apply: 1) No tricky curves & angles that has to be so perfect you need professional tools (the design just isnt fussy).... I've played with 3 different AOA's and sponson widths and in general, it just doesnt matter. 2) Other riggers you gotta play with strut depth and angles to .1 of a degree - the JAE... just set the strut to 0* and make the depth per plans and leave it alone! 3) Weight distribution/COG etc .... again not fussy. Make sure you place the engine/sponsons etc according to plans and the dang thing runs all day "without doing anything stupid" as Rod would say (I could tell you about the testing I've done but it would take up a page here). The only "tricky" things are engine, pipe & prop... and those variables are "tricky" with EVERY boat irregardless of type. Sorry guys, I strongly dont agree with you (and dare you to call Rod and say it is too hard a build for a first timer like me [:D]) Lastly what other boat can goes as fast for so little $$$??? (That would be the only reason I WOULDNT recommend a .12 JAE - it so fast it may be too much to learn on.... be prepared to make repairs as you learn to drive - ask me how I know [:D]) But back to this threads topic [:)] - "Yes, the Deuce would be an excellent 1st boat). The ones at our club are fast, good handling and reliable".
Posted on: 9/30/2009 1:17 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9136033

RE: .12 Rigger Kits for CHEAP!
Here are a few.
Posted on: 9/29/2009 3:16 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9133385

RE: PIcco .45 silver head
If you dont get help here, try signing up at intlwaters.... there are a number of "longtime" boaters there, who may be able to answer you question
Posted on: 9/29/2009 12:18 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9133067

RE: new picco .90
Sure, go to www.towerhobbies.com and type in the "search" box at the top, "starter belt". You'll find several choices based on brand & length.
Posted on: 9/28/2009 12:30 PM by Author "TCHedOff" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9130016