RE: Charging Lipo Batteries In Transmitter
I have used amo cans for some battery charging - you can probably find a can that you can stand your TX up inside and it will provide some proteciton. Besides that, you could always charg it in the tile shower - Just make sure the wife knows not to turn on the water[:@]
Posted on: 5/17/2013 1:13 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514491

RE: Deployed flaps plane stalled and crashed
Even though you were not flying a "scale" plane. I have found this to be a great article... www.modelairplanenews.com/Media/MediaManager/flaps.pdf‎ I'm one of those people who reads instructions [laugh], so I like to review articles like this and fly the suggested practice. I fly some scale and also have a sport plane with flaps - This article has worked great for me. And - that is a great looking plane. I would definitely try and rebuild her and enjoy flying with flaps[;)] OK, my link was not working - I put the script from what Google pulled up when I typed in my search "How To - Flying with Flaps."
Posted on: 5/17/2013 12:26 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514451

RE: Magnum GP SE 65
I had the Magnum 65 on a couple different planes years ago.. We got the engine with a combo deal from Global. The engine worked really well AFTER I put a Perry carb on it... The carb with air-bleed just did not cut it. It ran great with the Perry carb.
Posted on: 8/21/2012 2:52 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201285

RE: SIG Mark II Engine ?
I would go with a little larger engine thatn the LA40.. I have flown the Kadet Mark II for years and two different engines, even tried electric on it once. In fact, the wing on my Kadet was from the original Sig Kadet in the 80's before there was the "Mark II." I currently have a K&B 40 in mine and it flys well, but marginal on the "umph" factor. I would not try this setup with floats, which I wanted to do at one time. So, if you are looking, I would recommend going for a nice OS 45 if you want an engine to take you into the future. Or, even something like the Tower engines should work fine (I have not tried that brand, but some people really like them). If this is not your first plane, it would go very well with a 4-stroke and sound like nostalgia in the air[:D]
Posted on: 8/16/2012 1:43 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11196072

RE: Help identify a few planes
I would guess that #1 looks like the Super Sportster Bipe, 45-inch span, kit from the 80's. Google provided several pics and good information.
Posted on: 8/13/2012 3:43 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11192123

RE: OV-10 Bronco 81
Oh, not very unique [:)] It's just a Top Flite DC-3 Kit. I picked it up at a good price back in 2010. Was supposed to start building last year - oops, then just got going this February. Since I like to make my projects "personal" I found a C-53 Skytrooper here in California. Since they were primarily troop transport and paratroopers, and I skydive, I liked the idea. Then I found out this C-53 flew for the US Geological Survey - and I"M a Geologist[:D] So, that's how I decided to do the 53 instead of the DC-3 or C-47. I have not started posting yet; I do have a bunch of build photos and different little stuff I have been working on (modifying plans, making mistakes, etc.). So I may get something up soon - but it may be over on Scale Builder under the Top Flight Kits.
Posted on: 3/27/2012 2:13 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11017376

RE: OV-10 Bronco 81
Great Looking Bronco Gaines!!! I need to get my rear in gear on my C-53 project. I've been working on the horizontal stab and elevator for months now - was just supposed to take a couple days[X(] Keep up the good work and all the information you post for us to learn from.. Tom
Posted on: 3/26/2012 12:07 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11015838

RE: Another Ziroli DC 3 to be built...
Just some info... The full-scale is not "always" free castering. They would get lined up on the runway and lock the tailwheel straight ahead.. It stayed that way for flight and landing.. Then un-locked to turn off the runway.. I found that digging around for my "much smaller" DC-3 research. If you look into the DC-3 various checklist, you can find it there. Here is a link to one of the pages: [link=http://www.theaviatornetwork.com/pdf/NormalChecklist-050221.pdf]DC-3 Normal Checklist[/link] I'm keeping mine hooked up like a regular tail wheel. I just have a friend to make the yoke look better than a thin piece of wire or metal. I started with the plywood and bent piece of aluminum.. Then we went up to the bigger chunk and are machining it down
Posted on: 3/23/2012 4:38 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11012346

RE: Removing chuck from drill press?
Glad the new chuck worked out.. I was out using my drill press last night and was very happy that the bit was no longer shaking my work all around[:D]
Posted on: 3/21/2012 5:14 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11010025

RE: Top Flite DC-3 Horizontal Stabilizer
I just wanted to follow-up for anyone interested. I contacted Top Flite and they were great and sent me a replacement part free of charge and no shipping cost... That is the best service. However, I was sad to see the replacement part had the very same problem and was not symmetrical at all. So I ended up cutting my own trailing edge. After I had finished the stab, I lined up the di-cut part from the kit and noticed it did not even fill the space between the top and bottom sheet. That is probably why I had no idea on how to line things up so it was centered or evenly "offset" that when I sanded the required shape, it would work - because it just won't work. I attached a photo showing where I had lined up the bottom of the trailing edge with the sheeting. I marked where the bottom was aligned (on both sides) just outside of the center. Then you can see the "gap" on top where the trailing edge marks are showing on my fabricated piece. If I had tried to use the di-cut part, the stab would have been way off. So, I know you do have to "build" kits to make them work and I'm very willing to do that. I just wanted to post this to let anyone interested or who searches for the same problem, that it appears the di-cutting is just off in this case.. OK, on to more building fun...
Posted on: 3/19/2012 5:17 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Great Planes, TopFlite, Duraplane, US Aircore"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11007513

RE: Rtf for Gopro
I would not put a GoPro on any RC plane... However, one of the little "keychain spy camera" setups is very light and can be stuck on about anything. It is also a lot cheaper to replace than the GoPro when you crash...
Posted on: 3/1/2012 2:26 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10983327

RE: Top Flite DC-3 Horizontal Stabilizer
Thanks Bill, I tried to line things up and they won't overlap enough to sand anything off. One side is always undercut, the other hangs over no matter which side or end I turn over. I will contact the e-mail you gave me to hear their suggestions. Tom
Posted on: 2/7/2012 10:08 AM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Great Planes, TopFlite, Duraplane, US Aircore"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10948185

Top Flite DC-3 Horizontal Stabilizer
I am starting to build the DC-3 kit. After removing all the parts, I found the Stab TE seemed to be very "crooked" looking, kinda bananna-shaped with the bottom a pretty consistant curve and the top seeming to undulate a bit. I attached a very rough JPG to show my impression. This part came from sheet DC3TS03 and is 1/8-inch balsa. The instructions (Page 11, step 2) says to gule the TE to the spar and notes these pieces are SYMMETRICAL, so it does not matter how you join them. However, if I line them up at the tips, the parts are VERY different. One way bulges out at the bottom and does not cover the top of the spar, if turned over, it is bulged on top with the "wavy" side exposed on the bottom. It looks like the di-cut was actually bent out of shape on one side or both. My question - Should I just use the Ribs to "size" and make my own symmetrical stab TE? Do you happen to have a line drawing of this part? That would make it much easier to cut out. Otherwise, I will start at the center, use the stab spar to space the ribs and then mark each rib thickness centered out to the tips to creat my own "symmetrical" trailing edge. Thanks for any help. I don't want to start with a weird bow in the horizontal stab and have it look like a flying bannana. Tom
Posted on: 2/6/2012 12:22 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Great Planes, TopFlite, Duraplane, US Aircore"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10946717

RE: Spektrum A7000 retract servo
I have not tried this servo, but I"m going to go grab two for my next project... I could not get the other "standard" electric setups to work, but these look like they could be perfect. I went and looked, they show an example setup on the BVM pages. Thanks for posting.
Posted on: 2/1/2012 2:25 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10938986

RE: Is Rustoleum Clear glow proof
Also with Lustrecoat, if you hit it with an iron to try and shrink down some wrinkles - it REALLY turns yellow/brown[:o]... You can feel free to ask how I know - you can almost see the shape of an iron on the side of my plane[X(]
Posted on: 1/31/2012 4:07 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10937448

RE: Removing chuck from drill press?
I got the new drill chuck yesterday. I found a "Jet" drill chuck, taper mount, 0-1/2" X JT33. It was $45 on Amazon, and just under $50 with shipping. It felt like a lot better chuck right out of the box. Nice smooth operation and definitely put together better than the cheap chuck that came with the drill press. I dial-indicated the setup: the drill press post did not show any runout. Then, I measured at the bottom of the new chuck and it measured less than 1/1000th. Last I measured about 1.5-inches down on one of my bits with a solid drill shank and got 1/1000th. So, going from 14 thousandths down to 1 thousandth is pretty good for $50 in my book. Later today I'll get back to messing with some little parts and see how this thing feels drill/cutting.
Posted on: 1/25/2012 9:45 AM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10920123

RE: olive drab for p-47
Here is another link to the many colors of OD: http://www.rcmf.co.uk/4um/index.php?topic=53296.0 It is talking about B-17, but has some great references to the ANA and FS colors used over the years. Just FYI, Reply No. 13 on the link has some color JPGs that show the different green to brown changes.
Posted on: 1/24/2012 11:19 AM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10925290

RE: Removing chuck from drill press?
Here is the link for the chuck I purchased: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007XXI86 However, check that your press also uses the 33 Jacobs Taper (JT33). I learned that some common JT number sizes are #33, #2, #3, and #4. Here is a link to a good article I found about drill chucks: http://www.beautifuliron.com/jacobs.htm I was lucky that the cheap little chuck had the size stamped on the side. Hope this helps.
Posted on: 1/23/2012 11:11 AM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10923401

RE: Removing chuck from drill press?
I’m going to make this thread even older…[:D] I love stuff like this – If you use the “search� function it lets me go back years to find good information. After all, if you just post a question, you’re going to get hit with the “Did You Search First� replies. Any way – Last night I was fighting with my $99 bench-top drill press because the bit was just wobbling up a storm. I looked up all kinds of information and found out that most setup problems come from the Chuck, not the actual press. Eventually I found that if you have a tapered spindle, you can just knock the chuck back off. However, I learned all kinds of stuff along the way… I had checked the top of the chuck with my dial indicator and it was dead on. Well maybe some movement, but I could not even see 1/1000 off the dial. However, about 2-inches down on the bit (as measured on a solid rod) I was seeing 14 to 17/1000 runout – what a mess!! So, I found out a few things. Relating to this thread, I had a Taper spindle on the press and the easiest way to get the chuck off is to use a hardwood block and knock the chuck off from the back. BTW, you need to have something soft underneath to catch it!! This worked like a charm, one quick smack on the back of a 1X2 and the chuck popped right off. Then I dial-indicated the drill shaft and it is dead smooth with no runout at all. I was very glad to see that. Next I learned is that the “name brand� drill chuck with a JT33 taper X ½- inch jaw is $100 – WOW, that is as much as the press [laugh]. And, you can spend much more than that if you want a “good� drill chuck. The drill chuck that comes on these things is something like $7-14. Just a cheap piece to get the drill press off the shelf. So, after looking around today I found a “mid-grade� chuck which says it is quality controlled with no more than 0.001 runout. I just ordered that for $50 and hope it gets me to where I can drill something and not tear up the work… I did not want to spend another $100 on a $90 drill press. We’ll see how it turns out. I’ll post back after I get the new chuck in and check it with my dial indicator.
Posted on: 1/21/2012 11:51 AM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10905783

RE: 1/6 SCALE TWIN OTTER BUILD
GBLAS - Just FYI... Most Otters set up for skydiving have a Roll-Up door. It is plexiglass with a soft hinge material between strips of aluminum to make it articulated. I attached a couple of photos I grabbed showing one in flight with the door closed and another of the same plane empty with the door open (rolls up along the header in two channels)... Most Skydive operations keep the "hard" doors on hand for longer commute flights. They are a lot stronger and can hold up in bad weather better. Tom
Posted on: 1/17/2012 4:43 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10914239

RE: olive drab for p-47
Like RAM said, you may need to mix what you want.. I started looking into OD color - the answer I came up with is "there are several".. Even with the Army Navy Aeronautical colors (the ones before Federal Standard colors), when they came from the paint supplier, each batch could have a different "look"... Some are almost brown, other looks kinda green, there is OD and Dark OD... Another cool thing I learned from the Testors site (or maybe Tamiya) - when you "scale down" the paint you actually should be a little lighter in color than the original size plane. They had a pretty cool description and even a color scale for different sizes.. For example, Dark Olive would look almost black if you were to color a 1/144 size plane with it (the little planes for plastic ship models). Therefore, they provided a color scale that showed how to go a little lighter as things got smaller so they would still look correct to your eyes.. So, I'm planning on looking at the ANA colors, finding a Federal Standard color that matches what I want or is a little lighter (per the scale suggestions) and then have some mixed up at Home Depot. BTW, here is the link to the ANS colors: http://www.cybermodeler.com/color/ana_matrix.shtml And, here is some info on the Federal Standard Colors: http://www.colorserver.net/articles/info_fs595_history.htm You will notice that there are several references regarding OD (FS34087) incorrect paint chips and changes.. The current color is FS34088. Just remember - Beauty is in the eye of the Beholder... Pick the color that you want the plane to look or to match what you are trying to document..
Posted on: 1/14/2012 12:16 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10907289

RE: olive drab for p-47
Gary and TJ, thanks for the Positive Feedback[:D] When I spent a bit of time looking for all this - it made my head hurt... I like the idea of 91Zulu: If I could go to Home Depot and give them the "Mix Recipe" for the FS color I wanted, that would be great. However, after trying a BUNCH of colors with my wife when we were painting different rooms[8|] I could see that each base and finish you pick will greatly change the final look of the finish, so I don't know how much the mix would change. - Woops, Big Tim just posted a great explanation, read the previous post. I'll probably end up going to the FS Colors site and printing out a color chip - they cost way too much to order, but you can order the actual chip (each chip on a 3X5 card is $35). Then I'll take the printed squares to HD and have them scan the color to match the base and finish I'm using.
Posted on: 1/14/2012 12:12 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10908588

RE: olive drab for p-47
On the Tower Hobbies link, look under the Tech Department notes and it says, "Specially developed for finishing aircraft models. The color is formulated to provide the authentic tone to 1/32 & 1/48 scale model aircraft." That is the paint I used for my bombs on my last project. However, in theory it is not the right "tone" for something like a 1/5 scale. Also, it's a pretty small can to spray a big plane with[:)]
Posted on: 1/13/2012 3:09 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10907359

RE: Engine selection
I have a Saito 91 in my 60-size Fun-Fly plane and LOVE IT!!! Easy to set up and I almost never have to touch the needles, just fill and fly. However, this is not my "beater" setup. So, if you are going to use it for learning, go with the K&B61. It may be a little more difficult to set up and run (my K&B 40 is pretty sensitive), but you wont feel as bad if it gets filled up with dirt[:)]
Posted on: 1/13/2012 1:48 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10907217

RE: Aluminum A/C skin
I LOVE posts like this... I was going to use foil tape for my inspection plates and such on my next project. After looking through this thread I just ordered the Flite-Metal Sample Pack. I figure for the couple bucks in shipping it was worth not buying a roll of foil tape that would be more difficult to work with. Also, Wayne - I placed an order for just 1 yard of the 6-inch Flite Skinz. Just to try it out also. If shipping is not way over the top (like more than twice the cost of 1 yard), it will be nice to try it as a "sample" also. Thanks for all the info guys...
Posted on: 1/5/2012 10:27 AM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10893033

RE: Covering Question
Thanks Mike.... All your help is always appreciated!
Posted on: 11/15/2011 5:00 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10813902

RE: Two Twins Flying
Wow, what a beautiful plane.. I built a Sr. Falcon for a friend back in the 80's... It is just a nice plane... Your twin setup is just amazing!!
Posted on: 11/14/2011 3:54 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10812115

RE: Covering Question
Oh Look - I should have checked ACE... OK, if using the Xylol to lay down Ultracoat trim, would you spray a light coat on the base surface first (like the windex method) then lay the Ultracoat trim down, position, then squeeze out the Xylol?? OH, and to the Original Poster - as others noted, if you ran the new black strips forward to the leading edge, you may want to "seal" the new seam down with thin CA or nail polish... If you get oil under the leading edge, you can start to peel the whole strip...
Posted on: 11/14/2011 3:29 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10812071

RE: Covering Question
I just did a repair on my Ultracoat covering and went looking for Xylene.. Could not find it or Xylol. I did find that good old "Goof Off" is xylene and toluene, so I tried that... Oh, what a mess - it sure did take the color off!! I actually ended up with clear cover material peeling off and the red stuck down on the under layer - bummer.. Well, I ended up peeling the trim and spending a bunch of time cleaning the "glued" Ultracoat off - which, the Goof Off took the color off pretty darn clean, it just took a lot of paper towles. So, I ended up going back down with fresh trim cut and just lightly ironed down. Then I went around the edge with thin CA to keep it all sealed... I am NOT looking forward to trying that again - it's starting to sound like Monokote trim using the windex method over an Ultracoat base would give better results.
Posted on: 11/14/2011 3:23 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10812060

RE: quick disconnect
Hey Skeeter and Cotman, I tried using the "Molex" plugs/connectors on my warbird. Have to hook up ailerons, flaps, gear and bombs... The molex plugs did not come Gold Plated and after a couple of flights I was getting real bad "jitters" in the wing controls (flaps showed the worst). The plugs were from a good electronics store, I figured they would work great... Nope[:o] I switched back to gold-plated aileron extensions and added color markings on each lead - no more problems and it is not that big a deal to plug in 4 instead of just one. I spoke with another scale guy who said that the "regular" (not gold) electronics connectors either get corosion fast or do not hold up well to the vibrations. Even with a clip to secure the plug, they developed the glitching.. So, just from my experience - you can't go wrong with gold aileron extensions and I'm not trying the Molex experiment again. Tom
Posted on: 11/8/2011 3:08 PM by Author "TEBerg" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10803098