RE: First Sub scratch built
Thats a very interesting 'shorty' interpretation of a modern sub. Must make it a lot easier to transport yet have some presense when surfaced.
Posted on: 11/17/2009 5:36 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9260867

RE: WTC Piston Tanks/Motors
The bayonets are going to be fitted to the circular WTC, not the hull.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 4:38 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258297

RE: Automatic Pitch Controllers
Agreed, though something like the Engel LR2 does not have a pot to set neutral, only a pot for sensitivity.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 1:37 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9220253

RE: Automatic Pitch Controllers
[quote]ORIGINAL: sunworksco Are these the same devices that are used in laser levels? If my wtc is parallel to my keel,can I just level out my wtc ,sitting on the bench,and set the pitch controller? [/quote] Yes, thats fine you'll need to make sure your pitch controller is level in the WTC if yours is one without a button.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 1:03 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9220170

RE: Automatic Pitch Controllers
[quote]ORIGINAL: BillHarris I have no interest in doing a DIY Pitch Controller, but out of sheer curiosity I'd love tp know how one works. My first guess is some sort of damped pendulum with feedback control, but nowadays I suspect that the design is more solid-state, derived from RC 'copter gyros. Bill [/quote] Modern ones use a inclinometer. No Gyro here. http://www.analog.com/en/other-products/multi-chip/adis16201/products/product.html
Posted on: 11/1/2009 11:35 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9219990

RE: Automatic Pitch Controllers
[quote]ORIGINAL: Skip Asay ''no need to use a buble level to mount the controller.'' I'll never understand the misconception that so many people seem to have. When it comes to correct installation of ANY kind of automatic leveler, a bubble level IS MANDATORY. Use of this level is required not for actual installation of the leveler but to MAKE SURE THE BOAT ITSELF IS LEVEL when the button is pushed. When you push that button, that is what the leveler sees as ZERO angle and will attempt to maintain that angle when the boat is underway. So if your boat is sitting on the table with a 2 or 3 degree down angle (or up angle) when you push the button, that's what the leveler will try to maintain. And that can cause all kinds of problems while underway. Methinks that whoever started the mistaken belief that a ''bubble level is not needed'' did not really know just how these things work. Skip Asay [/quote] Me thinks you didn't read what I said. ''no need to use a buble level to mount the controller.''. You do however need one to zero it when the boat is built up and sitting level. So now you only have to ensure your built up boat is sitting level, which is far easier than setting a tiny PCB level in the bowels of your sub and then ensuring your WTC or dry hull is level (which is what you have to do with the SubTech APC4 and Engel LR2 - because there is NO button to set the zero level). And with the SPC pro2 it appears you can set it level from outside your built up sub as well as access all the fuctions from a remote switch or magnet. No need to open your boat up!
Posted on: 11/1/2009 11:33 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9219985

RE: Automatic Pitch Controllers
I have quite a few I have accumulated over the years including the APC3, APC4, PC6A, Engel SPC Pro, Engel LR2, the first Engel one and most recently the UPC-1. There are a couple more like the first ever one out of England that you had to fill with heavy oil. The best by far is and was the the Engel SPC Pro 1 which I think was made in the US. this was like US$100 at the time. There now seems to be a new version the SPC pro2 http://global.ebay.com/search?Query=150383394311&Region=0 There are plenty of features and customization you dont find in any other controller, like the pitch controller working correctly when you go in reveres and no need to use a buble level to mount the controller. Just mount it anyway you want and press a button to zero it. Easy to customize to any sub you have and also the best performing one and at any speed you sub is running.
Posted on: 11/1/2009 5:08 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9219431

RE: Engel Submarine Kit Builder
[quote]ORIGINAL: AQUASUB I just make my own have not replaced one yet in 25 plus years. [/quote] That causes far too much resistances, and can be messy. Assuming offcause it doest leak with the Pisrton tanks the OP wats to use. Repacking it after removing or changing a shaft is going to be a pain as well. A Simmering is the way to go here, seals tighter the deaper you go too.
Posted on: 10/26/2009 5:02 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9202496

RE: Engel Submarine Kit Builder
If your using a Simmering seal you dont need any orings.
Posted on: 10/22/2009 7:56 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9192967

RE: Engel Submarine Kit Builder
[quote]ORIGINAL: sunworksco I'm assuming that that image is inside the wtc?What is in the smaller brass fitting right side of the coupling? I am using the Engel coupling but do you have an image of the rubber/metal spring loaded Simmering seal installation that Engel offers? If you can picture my two motors bolted to the aluminum screw plug on the inside of the wtc and the motor shaft bores through the thickness of the screw plug to the wet hull side with bronze bearings and the Simmering seals pressed inward from the wet hull side with two threaded o-ring cups inserted over the wet side shaft bores. [/quote] No everything in the picture is on the wet side. I tried really hard but I just cant picture that! You only need 1 seal per shaft and it need to be wet on one side I (in contact with water) or it will overheat with friction on the shaft and breakup . This goes for just about and rubber/nitrile/PVC seal.
Posted on: 10/21/2009 1:19 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9190956

RE: Engel Submarine Kit Builder
[image]http://www.treehouseradio.com/marinerc/submarines/typhoon/images/typhoon_rear10l.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 10/20/2009 6:06 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9188959

RE: wtc end caps
Will draw latches be sufficient when using a piston tank in the WTC? The WTC will be presurrized, I wonder if there will be any 'give' in the latches that may allow air to escape?
Posted on: 10/7/2009 2:17 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154150

RE: semi submersibale ship
Heres a good start http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?board=157.0
Posted on: 10/7/2009 1:54 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154094

RE: need expert 2 questions ?
1) no differance in speed or handeling in a model sub. Will be harder to lift out of the water though as it will take longer to drain with few, small channels. 2) negative wire can be brought out into the wet and made a switch with no problems. If you bring the positive terminal out for some reason it need to be insulated if you run in chlorinated or brackish water. Vasline (petroleum jelly is good for smearing over exposed terminals).
Posted on: 8/19/2009 1:44 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9028436

RE: Looking for a Nikko Seawolf or Ocean Explorer
With the Neptune you have the choce of housing the transmitter internally or trailed to a floating buoy that you tow around if you want a signal from the deep.
Posted on: 10/8/2008 4:09 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8029317

RE: Looking for a Nikko Seawolf or Ocean Explorer
Here one http://www.mikessubworks.com/page1.html
Posted on: 10/7/2008 3:33 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8027375

RE: Looking for a Nikko Seawolf or Ocean Explorer
The TT Neptune comes with a camera and can go deaper and doesn't leak and has a greater range. Better still would be to mount a towed, lowerable camera on a surface craft.
Posted on: 10/7/2008 6:00 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8025996

RE: new to the community of RC Subs
If you want to have plenty of working functions, you'll be wanting a bigger boat. The Robbe item at 1/40 is a good choice. Its dynamic dive but can converted to static dive without changing the supplied WTC. Robbe produce 1/40 scale display torpedoes to complement the model.
Posted on: 10/3/2008 2:04 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8015620

RE: Increasing Range submerged
The frequency is to high to penerate water. Over here we dont even recommend them for fast nitros and electrics as the water spray thrown up can interfere with the signal, and even if only momentary can be dangerous. Use 75MHz or whatever the legal ground frequency is in your country.
Posted on: 10/3/2008 1:12 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8015473

RE: The most effective seal for servo linkages?
I guess it depends on how much vacuum are generating and the size of the WTC. I have one of the info CD's that Dave sends out with the the kilo kit somewhere I am sure in the parts list document it recommends changing the lip seal with an oring.
Posted on: 9/14/2008 6:12 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7952362

RE: The most effective seal for servo linkages?
[quote]ORIGINAL: petn7 Not all of them...at least the 1/16" ones from Caswell. And even if they did work, they are not as effect as cup seals, in theory. Up to a point, cup seals are suppose to seal better under a vacuum/water pressure. [/quote] No the Caswell ones are not designed for over or under pressure. The ID of the oring need to be a little smaller than the od of the push rod, or adjustable by compression like the ones Norbert Bruggen sells and included with his subs which all have an increase in internal pressure. Lip seals are pretty awful for vacuum condition but great for over presure if facing the right way. Replacing the lip seal on Subtech seals with orings are great for RCABS.
Posted on: 9/13/2008 7:57 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7951104

RE: The most effective seal for servo linkages?
Oring seals work fine in RCABS and piston tank systems[8D]
Posted on: 9/13/2008 11:57 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7949975

RE: Dive-in at the Lido. 12th October 2008
I think its personal liability insurance as per other models. If your subs shreds someones fingers and they sue you, you have insurance.
Posted on: 9/6/2008 6:56 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7925354

RE: Digital programmable servos w/ built-in falisafe
Why not just get a missing pulse detector, cheaper and easier.
Posted on: 8/29/2008 4:06 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7899605

RE: Krick U-Boat? Anyone?
Lee & Nuke, I fear your pitching way above the head of the populus. I think they are are looking for $20 toy subs that look vaguely like a seawolf. I can imagine people falling of their chairs when they click on the link and discover how much a well built scale model costs.
Posted on: 8/29/2008 8:09 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7898293

RE: Displacement once submerged: the same as when floating?
Of course if you make holes in the ping pong ball and let water freely enter then the ping pong with the holes will displace less. Now imagine you have 3 ping pongs, 1 has no no holes and the other two have holes. You fill one with 50% water anf the other with 100% water and then seal the hole so no more water can enter or leave. Now you push each ping pong to the bottom of the fish bowl. They all displace the same amount of water which is the volume of the ping pong ball, regardless if it is filled with water or any other material. I think youi are assuming that because the water from the sea is now inside the sub ballast tank, the water belongs to the sea, but as you can see from the ping pong experiment, the water in the ballast tank can be considered part of the sub. Another experiment. Imagine you have a oil tanker at port, with its tanks empty. Now they start filling the tanks with water from the shore, gradually the tanker sits lower in the water, its displacement is increasing. Now imagine the same tanker instead of using water from the shore, opened the valves at the bottom of the tanks and let sea water in, then they closed the ballast tank off. The tanker is again fully loaded and sitting lower in the water and displacing more water like before. thats why I said the water in the subs ballast tank is part of the sub, not the sea.
Posted on: 8/27/2008 2:19 PM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7891869

RE: Displacement once submerged: the same as when floating?
The displacement of a submarine or any other vessels is the volume of water it displaces when placed in the pond or ocean. It is independent of the mass of the submarine. A submerged submarine made of lead displaces the same amount of water as a same sized submarine made of balsa (will need bigger ballast tanks to submerege ofcourse). A submarine sitting on the bottom of the sea with a full ballast tank displaces the same amount of water as submarine with empty ballast tank (assuming it is tethered to keep it down). the differeance is that the sub with the empty ballast tank has far more buoyancy. A submerged sub displaces more water than a surfaced sub by an amount equal to the non fee flooding volume of the submarine structures above the surface. A sub displaces the same in fresh or salt water, but its bouyancy is different.
Posted on: 8/27/2008 7:39 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7890803

RE: Watertight servo linkage: idea
What advantage does this have over the standard wateritight seals and bellows?
Posted on: 8/11/2008 5:05 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7832326

RE: New ballast system
I can't get y head around this to to see how this could work in a model sub. Is this bag designed to go in the dry watertight compartment or in the wet compartment? I am guessing it is in the wet compartment because if it were in the dry compartment there would have to be a change in pressuure with that comartment . It looks like the only time there will be air inside the bag is when you start off. When you fill it with water the air escapes and when you drain the waer out with the pump the bag collapses. When you now switch off the pump, the bag will remain collapsed even if the air pipe is above the water.
Posted on: 7/28/2008 8:29 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7779873

RE: Bow facing prop?
Only any good if you want to go backwards fast. And you'll need to replicate the rudder and dive plane at the front if you want to be able turn at speed.
Posted on: 7/15/2008 2:52 AM by Author "Taxidriver" in the forum "RC Submarines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7732493