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RE: OFFICIAL Walkera 4G1B Thread
Leading edge of the paddles pointing slightly up !!!
Posted on: 10/29/2009 9:05 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9213641
RE: 4#3b toiletbowl syndrome
Agree you need to check the flybar, and everything else on the head. But....How many flights do you have on the motor? It may be time for a new main motor..... Ted
Posted on: 8/11/2009 8:23 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9008762
RE: DX6i where to buy
Did you ever find your DX6i and receiver? I have like new DX6i, w/ manual, nicads and a AR6100E receiver that you can have for a very reasonable price. LMK, Ted
Posted on: 8/11/2009 2:40 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9007966
RE: Walkera 5#10
Does anyone have a homepage for Turbo Ace. I did a bit of hunting and came up with this, http://turboace2000.1freecart.com/ but it looks like part of WOW hobbies. I would like to find a "Stand alone" site for Turbo Ace, if I could find it. Is Turbo Ace a Walkera product? I think it is cool that Turbo Ace put in a BEC to allow the use of the 2401/2410/2411 4.2V 1S 4in1. Personally, I think Crush had the better approach, which was to use a Walkera 2403 2S 4in1, but this adds about $40 extra. For those of you trying to keep conversion expense under control, the BEC is a welcome addition.
Posted on: 8/11/2009 1:14 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9007778
RE: Switching 2601 TX from mode 2 to mode 1?
I think there is a dip switch on the inside of the transmitter. Go to the Walkera Home Page and Download any Heli manual that uses the 2601, and it will have complete instructions for conveting from Mode 2 to Mode 1.
Posted on: 8/11/2009 12:29 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9007677
RE: tx-2401
Neither RX will work. The 4 CH WK 2401 will not allow you to set-up the swash-plate or other parameters for this type of heli. Not sure the 2401 will even work with a RX2801 or RX2701, even with the first 4 channels: ELE, AIL, THR, RUD. Rick at Clubheli.com is "blowing-out" some extra WK-2801's and WK 2801-E's at $139. I got a an E model for this price, a good deal. Walkera has also just announced the WK2801PRO, which has the ability to switch between 10mA and 100mA output. You can download the manual at their web-site. Given Walkera's penchant for rapidly changing their specs, even within models without announcement, I am currently reviewing the new manual to see what new "goodies" they have stuffed-in the PRO.
Posted on: 8/11/2009 7:26 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9007065
RE: OFFICIAL Walkera 4G1B Thread
Eric, When you get the set, you will notice that the flybar lock is also improved, so that it attaches on both sides of the guide ring. P.S. Did you try using a magnet to see if you could extract the part from the carpet ?? I have a vinyl floor in my hobby room, which is also the day room for my four dogs. Boy am I glad I didn't put carpet in there... [>:] Take care, Ted
Posted on: 8/9/2009 11:49 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9003732
RE: OFFICIAL Walkera 4G1B Thread
Look at the "guide ring set" HM-4G1B-Z-02. It includes this pin. It is pointed on the end.......to guide it in..... Alternatively, on a real heli this would be called the "Jesus Bolt" as this is the attachment of the Rotor Head to the main shaft. Lose this, the rotorhead flies off and you go see Jesus..... I'm sure you could shape a paper clip, or some other piece of steel wire to lock this in. You could also enlarge the hole and use a M1.0 screw and bolt, or use a 00-90 screw and bolt, which could be obtained at the LHS.
Posted on: 8/9/2009 11:35 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9003694
RE: OFFICIAL Walkera 4G1B Thread
The rotorhead is attached to the upper part of the mainshaft. It has the spindle shaft with two "O" rings and two "C" clips. These act like a damper to allow blade "flapping". The blade grips rotate around the spindle shaft, which allows for the cyclic pitch inputs. Walkera does not sell the spindle shaft separatly for the 4G1B, like they do for the 4#3B. You will need to replace the rotorhead, which includes the spindle shaft, dampers and retaining clips.
Posted on: 8/9/2009 10:44 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9003545
RE: OFFICIAL Walkera 4G1B Thread
Are you talking about the spindle shaft, or the pin that holds the gear on the main shaft? The latter is a small tapered pin, not easily duplicated, but you could use short section of spring steel. The spindle shaft is a more complicated part. Parts can be obtained from Rick at ClubHeli (USA) or Terence at Chinese Jade. ClubHeli ships quick. Onward and Forward....Ted
Posted on: 8/9/2009 10:18 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9003447
RE: Help with Walkera 53Q3
Check that you have proper mesh in the gear-pinion, by manually running a small strip of paper thru the gears. The resulting corrugations should be similar. If one of the "meshes" is too close (tight), it will load the motor. Also, you might try to initialize the TX with the trim set all the way over, insted of centered....so that you have more trim range for correction of the yaw. If nothing seems to work, swap the motors, and see if the problem follows the motors, as one may be significantly weaker than the other...... FWIW, Ted
Posted on: 8/9/2009 5:57 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9001479
RE: Recomendations for Tools for 4#3b
Don't need much.... Make sure you get a few high quality micro screwdrivers. I use the Wiha Screwdrivers: Specifically: the Phillips 000 and Phillips 00 sizes. I've also fabricated a few "custom" tools to help with quicker set-up. I used a piece of 1/8" brass rod to make a "hanger" to quickly pick-up the bird by the flybar to check for fore-aft balance, and I use this for all my Walkera's. I also put a small piece of small brass tube in small wood dowel to make a tool for quickly pressing on the tail onto the 1mm tail shaft. I have also replaced the CF boom with a brass tube (others use stainless hypodermic tube, available from SMALL PARTS), as the set screws quickly fracture the CF tail boom. Finally, I use a standard single hole punch to make paper shims for the blade grips to take-out the "slop" in the grips and tighten the blades. Do not overtighten the blade grip screws or you will quickly strip the grips, and need to move to a larger screw. FWIW, Ted
Posted on: 8/9/2009 5:48 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9001471
RE: Walkera 5#10
Ryan, Just sent you a post at the other site. I would like to take the 2S off your hands. (I was just going to order the parts to build one myself). Please E-mail me at Tedstrickland@msn.com. Thanks, Ted
Posted on: 8/8/2009 6:05 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9000412
RE: OFFICIAL Walkera 4G1B Thread
I ordered one of the New #4 motors, which is a standard 370SD, but with 2 large caps (noise filters) on the board it. The #4 appears to use the same servos as the 4G1B. I assume at 3.7V the ESC steps-up the voltage to 4.8-5V and with the 2S setup it steps-down the voltage, but this is only conjecture at this point - but easily checked, by measuring the voltage at the servo outputs on the two different ESC's when powered up. I will try all these different combinations and report back........ Ted
Posted on: 7/30/2009 7:37 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8977286
RE: OFFICIAL Walkera 4G1B Thread
Just got the new Walkera Rx 2421, the 7.4V 4-in-1 for the upgraded #4, from ClubHeli. I will install soon and report back to ya' all. The new #4 appears to use the 4G1B head (except the new flybar locks - screw from top & bottom), but has lots of other new parts, including a canopy, blades, new frame and LG. I hope this will resolve my 3.7V 1S issues. This is probably the heli that the 4G1b "should have been" P.S. I love all my Walkera's (5#10, 4#3B, 4#3Q, 5G6-1, Lama2, Lama2-1, & my 53'2)but they change specs faster than I change my shorts. It is a part-time job just keeping up with all the improvements and upgrades....but it sure adds a bit of fun..... Ted
Posted on: 7/30/2009 5:44 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8975831
RE: Walkera Lama 400D question
Tail rotor is only decorative, and usually spins freely in the current created by the co-ax blades. All torque correction is done by the co-ax blades, so no tail-rotor required. TJS
Posted on: 6/30/2009 9:30 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8894254
RE: OFFICIAL Walkera 4G1B Thread
Eric, Check your spindle shaft (remove the "C" clip, then the "O" ring and pull it out). Roll it on a piece of glass and make sure it is perfectly straight. Also, check you blade grips, as the aluminum is easily bent, especially if you had trauma to the blades.... I had a similar issue and it required replacement of a cracked blade, replacing a blade grip and straightening the spindle shaft. The OEM blades are pretty consistent on the weight, but you could check the weight and the spanwise CG, as this can easily throw-off the entire rotor head balance. I am assuming that your mainshaft is perfectly straight and that your flybar is straight and properly balanced. After any damage, it is a good think to check-out all parts of the rotating mechanics, and then properly balance the flybar, main blades, and the rotor-head. FWIW, I think the OEM Walkera flybar has way too much flex, and recommend you replace it with a good quality piece of 2mm CF rod, or 2mm steel, say from a cut-down flybar from a Trex 450. Finally, I completely agree with Gary that the 4G1B's need a high quality Li-po to function properly (see post #10). The OEM Walkera batteries at 3.7V 10C just DO NOT cut it. I have 2 of the 1200 MaH 18C batteries that work great, with several more on order..... Happy Landings, Ted
Posted on: 6/29/2009 11:17 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8890640
RE: Walkera 5#10
Where did you purchase the 7.4V lama BL kit from ??
Posted on: 6/26/2009 3:20 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8883343
RE: Walkera 5#10
Oh so interesting.....great adaptation of the 7.4 4-in-1 with the BL motors. Did you try it with 3.7V? Did it work ?? I have used the OEM 5#10 2401 rx, as well as the upgraded 2410rx and the 2411 rx, for the 3.7V 5G4Q3 Air Wolf (note this is different from the 5#4Q3 which is a 7.4V set-up, as mentioned above). For 3.7V 1S the 2411 is the most powerful rx. The 5#10 OEM uses 130PH motors, but the 5G4Q3 uses the 180 motors, as does the 7.4 V 5#4Q3. I think Walkera discovered that 3.7V was not enough for the 180's on the 5G4Q3, and quickly upgraded the setup to offer the 7.4V solution.....in the 5#4Q3. I totally agree that higher C rated batteries deliver more power and longer flight times. The stock Walkera 3.7V 1000MaH batteries just barely cut it. I purchased several 3.7V 1000MaH 20C batteries on-line. I have seen a bit of better overall performance on the 5#10 using these batteries, as well as longer flight times. However, they make a WORLD of difference on the higher current-draw 3.7V 1S 4G1B, which uses a 370SD main motor. The Walkera 53 series co-ax's (53-1, 53-8, 53Q3 and 53Q3 with the "D" mod, which offers a power tap for lighting) heli's are also 7.4V. These rx's may also offer a BL 4-in-1 solution, if you want to stick to Walkera 4-in-1's. As mentioned above, the 2403 7.4V 4-in-1 used by Crushalot may be the best overall solution, as it was designed for the 130/180 types of motors. You CAN NOT use 7.4V 2S li-po's on the stock 5#10 4-in-1's - 2401, 2410, or the 2411) as this will quickly fry your 4-in-1 and servos.... So many possibilities....... Ted
Posted on: 6/26/2009 9:27 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8882471
RE: OFFICIAL Walkera 4G1B Thread
Gary, I ran into the same intermittent electrical problem you mentioned in the first post. Minimal hover power, or with flashing red LED, with power cut-out. I tried resetting the 4in1 by unplugging and re-plugging, but couldn't clear the issue. Behaves if it has minimal power. Changed the lipo to a freshly powered one, no help. I'll try again tomight, and play with a few other setting on the Tx and Rx, if need be. I'm at about my end-point with 1S power for this size FP heli, (back to my HBFP), as every upgrade has a dramatic consequence in power and flight time. I could just leave it stock, but if my Doberman farts from across the room, the resulting air current will cause the OEM skids to snap in half, in mid air......no kidding - they are that bad. I really like the 4G1B, and I fear the olny salvation will be to use that Ar6100E, and a E-flite 3in1, and upgrade to 2S power. I would have to figure-out how to configure my DX-7, as I have never programmed one for FP's with integrated gyro 3in1's. How to set-up swash, how to mix...etc.... Ted
Posted on: 6/22/2009 4:54 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8872033
RE: Walkera 5#10
Charlie, I just looked at Terence's BL upgrade for the 5#10. Looks interesting. I assume this is for a 1S setup? Curious to know what kind of flight times this will result in. That's the thing about Walkera's, it is almost a part-time job just to keep up with all the minor (and Major) mods that come out, both from Walkera and others...... I may have to give this upgrade a try..... Ted
Posted on: 6/22/2009 10:03 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8871028
RE: Walkera 5#10
BL upgrade for which Walkera Heli ?? Possibly a 5#10 dual brushless, with outrunners, running on 11.1V 1000MaH Lipos at 30C. I'd probably cut the cat in half.... :) Seriously, which BL upgrade do you refer. I just went to Terence's page and only saw the upgrades for the 4#3B and 4G3. Did you see Walkera now offers the 4#3B and 4G3 in double brushless......OEM. I'll let them tinker with it for a while, 'cause them seem to change and upgrade their helis faster than I change my socks...... I wish i could find a complete, off the shelf, plug-n-play, double brushless upgrade for my 2.4 Ghz HBFP, with motors, esc and signal converter...... Any ideas Gary ? Ted
Posted on: 6/19/2009 5:30 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8865361
RE: 4#3b Trim/balance
Not sure what you mean. Is it a constant uncontrolled yaw ? or intermittent ? When does this problem show itself.......? Make sure you work on keeping the stick movements small and quick...... Ted
Posted on: 6/7/2009 9:53 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8832281
RE: 4#3b Trim/balance
Not an uncommon problem to one new to the 4#3B. Make sure the heli is set-up properly (proper servo movement (dip switches), CG balance, level swash, etc). When applying initial power, give it a good bump of throttle to get it airborne, while applting a quick jolt of right cyclic. This will counteract the tendency of the heli to want to scoot left. The tail rotor imparts a left lateral movement, in addition to counteracting torque. It took me almost a full day to get this initial set of mooves perfected, just so I could get it off the ground, and into a stable tail-in hover. One helpful hint, I added a set of MIA Microflight LG to replace the OEM wire LG. These are much more resistant to damage for the initial learning curve. Ted.
Posted on: 6/5/2009 9:30 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8827401
RE: 5g6-1 or 5#10
Exploded diagrams are on Walkera's Web site. I own several of each the 5#10, 5G6-1 and the Lama2. The 5G6-1 and Lama2 are about 50 grams each, for indoors only...not even an AC draft. The 5#10 is about 3X larger, and uses a 3.7V 1000mah Lipo. I have added heatsinks (Rotorfly on read, xtreme on front), Gaui200 LG and a CX2 canopy. Very stable mostly indoor bird. Again no wind..... Both the 5#10 and 5G6-1 use conventional servos and a 4in1 controller (rx, exc, gyro, mixer). The Lama2 uses a "stroke servo" where the servo motors are attached to the 4in1 board, effectively making it a 5in1. The Lama2 has a recently upgraded metal head/swash combo, and you can get a barebones for $69 from Wowhobbies (if you already have a 2401TX). I aded the MIA LG upgrade and Xtreme 100 series heatsinks, and have never broken a single part. Terence at ChineeseJade also has a good deal on these birds and the xtreme 100's The 5G6-1 is my least favorite of the three, as it has the shortest flight time and least stability....or should I say the greatist sensitivity. I really like them all...the Lama2 is especially fun for buzzing the dogs....very light, stable with a good 5-6min battery life using stock Walkera 3.7V 400mAH lipo's. You will enjoy them all......
Posted on: 5/5/2009 11:18 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8742445
RE: OFFICIAL Walkera 4G1B Thread
Gary, Glad you got this string going..... I bought several 4G1B's as sson as they were released last year. The OEM metal head is well done, with the exception of the fly-bar locking arms which are a bit weak, and easily deformed (changing the soft-CF flybars to steel helps). Gary provided me with some prototype LG parts so I could try them out - and I have tried so many different things with my 4G1B, but just never got it "exactly" the way I wanted.....which is why I bought several of the ESKY HB FP 500's, hoping that 7.4V LiPo power was the answer. I don't know why I keep messin' with these FP birds, but I think it is the challange to really make them work well. I keep going back to the 4G1B, as I really want to find the best solution. On the 4G1B I have noticed occasional problems with power, but attributed mine to the extra weight I added when I first started adding the SS LG with the prototype adapters, battery mounts, Ti boom, tail, new canopy, etc. I tried going backwards, removing parts and weight, but got inconsistent results. After about the first 25 flights on my moded bird, I put in a new OEM Walkera 3.7V brushed motor, and noticed a dramatic improvment, initially. I will f/u about rate of degredation over time.... Here are some of my experiences: Battery mounting: I used four SuperSkids battery mounts to build a battery holder for the 4G1B. Two were trimmed to remove the rubberband openings, but preserving the CF rod holes and placed between the adapters and the CF frame plate, and two were used forward, after the stock battery holder was removed. The CF rod and rubber tubing were used to place the mounts in the right places. This allowed me to use a 1500 MaH 3.7 V lipo I had custom made from Max Amps. (about 8 minute flights) By shimming the bottom of the battery holder with a piece of basswood, glued to the upper inside of the front adapter, and equal to the thickness of the adapter, the battery can be placed anywhere needed to achieve perfect balance, without any weight in the canopy. I agree the OEM canopy looks good, but I still like the HB canopies. The new Honey Bee King canopy is my favorite, with its red, white and black racing checks theme, and at 15 grams, as it is only 5 grams more weight than the Honey Bee FP canopy and MUCH more durable, plus it has the screen vents on the sides. I use the original DF4 blades, which are about 1.5 cm longer than the stock 4G1B blades. They give more lift, but turn a bit slower and throw-off the gyro revo mix a bit, but not much. With all my mods, I just can't get enought lift with the shorter stock 4G1B blades. The longer blades may have contributed to the early demise of my first motor. Current 4G1B configuration includes: Walkera 4G1B with OEM CNC Aluminum Swash, blade grips and flybar holder, stock main and tail motors, servos & WK2404 4-in-1. SuperSkids custom adapters for 4G1B (2) Superskids battery holders (4) and CF rods (2) Superskids 400D LG and skids (2 each) Superskids vertical tail plane and rod-saver ball (1 each) SuperSkids Titanium tail boom (1) SuperSkids prototype (smaller) flybar paddles with button head hex M2 x 4mm screws and nuts (2 each) Align 2mm stainless flybar (from Trex450 SE V2) cut to 180 mm (1)…much more rigid than the soft CF rod OEM. Align TREX 450 flybar weights (2) DF4 main rotor blades (2) Esky heat sink on the main motor (1), but 2 can fit…motor doesn’t get hot Xtreme productions 100 series heatsink on the tail motor Honey Bee King Canopy. I'll try to get some pictures up soon with the battery mount mods and some of the other stuff I have tried. I enjoy the 4G1B very much, it is stable and flies well in confined spaces. It is almost indestructible, owing to the great SS parts and mods. But, ultimately it is a bit underpowered, due to its use of the 3.7 V system...... Finally, I like your tail-boom mod. Does it improve the yaw control significantly. How does it effect lateral sliding? Any hints on getting a good bend, without trashing the tubing??? Did you use your standing long tube to start ? Ted
Posted on: 5/4/2009 6:18 AM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8738801
RE: Walkera 5#10
Yep, been using those Rotorfly 180 sinks for the rear motor for quite some time. If only I could get them in a color other than purple [&o] Ted
Posted on: 3/31/2009 12:42 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8634909
RE: Walkera 5#10
Microair, If you are going to use the 1550Mah lipo on the 5#10, you are going to have to add weight to the tail. There is little room for adjustment of CG towards the rear on the 5#10, and the rear motor limits rearward battery placement. (I have tried thai exactly) Not to say it won't work on the 5#10, but any ballast weight on a 5#10 is a problem, as this bird is soooo sensitive to added weight. The 1200mah lipos and 1000mah lipos do work well for the 5#10. I use the 1550's Alex at MaxAmps built for me on my modified 4G1B. Ted
Posted on: 3/11/2009 8:52 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8568483
RE: Walkera 5#10
Gary, I agree about set-up on the HBFP. There is no way to balance fore-aft on the OEM HBFP E500. After I upgraded mine to Super Skids adapter & LG parts with battery holder, I acheived perfect balance. I have also purchased all the Extreme upgrade parts, including the flybar cage, head and main shaft. I do have a set of the extreme 8 degree FP wood blades, but havn't tried them out yet. The OEM Esky blades are total soft crap, and I always swap them out for the Walkera DF4 blades. The 4G1B blades are almost 1.5 cm shorter, and generate far less lift, so they all go into the deads-parts box..... As for the dihedral, doesn't that work itself out with the blade coning at higher speeds? I assume that you are using more dihedral for the "hotter" blades ? So, when will your blades be available ???
Posted on: 3/11/2009 8:47 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8568461
RE: Walkera 5#10
Ahh soo, that makes perfect sense. Its all about maintaing altitude and tail control simultaneously....therfore the need to mix both outputs. The new "superblades" are for ?? HBFP, or 340mm co-ax's...not sure which heli-type.....?
Posted on: 3/11/2009 5:44 PM by Author "Tedstrickland"
in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8567791
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