RE: Do you use FrSky Modules and Receivers?
Hello "aeajr", Yes, I use the FrSky Diy V8HT 2.4 ghz module in my AIrtronics Vision 8SP, I use the FrSky 2.4 ghz Futaba type plug in module in my Ace MicroPro 8 that was convereted for a plug in module, and eight of my other radios like the Futaba 6EX, Airtronics Infinity, and the plain old 4 and five channel radios that used to be 72mhz FM radios. I often fly my sailplanes out to the edge of sight, and often in areas with main line, high voltage electrical transmission lines within 1 mile. Being on the coast of Texas and having 90 to 100 percent humidity on most days, the HV lines can be heard to crackle if you are within 600 feet of them. This is a real pain for FM RC radios, but not a problem for the 2.4 ghz it seems. The FrSky conversions have been excellent for me and my merry band of young flyers I sponsor. The FrSky equipment is really cheap. The conversions are easy to do to any radio. The recievers, even with full telemetry are great on price, and flawless (For Me So Far) in reception and execution in all the ranges and environments I've flown. I'm not a FrSky dealer, not a hobby shop owner. I'm just a guy with 9 grandkids, 5 flying sailplanes and electric planes, that had 13 radios he needed to get up on 2.4 ghz....for all the great reasons 2.4ghz is better. I liked being able to convert the computer based Vision, MicroPro, Futaba, and Infinity.......so I could use what I know. I'd love to have a new Airtronics SD-10......but I'd have to learn the new programing...and now that the radios I have, are doing a great Job, there's just no need. Let me say that my limit in sight is way beyond any of my friends, and my largest sailplane the "Southern Cross", with 164 inch wingspan, and 13 inch chord..................is way out there, over the flat coastal salt grass plain...when it gets hard to see at altitude. It's a great test of distance for the FrSky eguipment. It works just fine. So don't be worried by the low price, the FrSky does just fine. I converted two HIGH DOLLAR FM radios for my giant scale buddies for free. They put the transmitter conversions and recievers to the test...beyond anything I ever ask of my planes. The FrSky have been used in their huge high dollar planes for over 1 1/2 years. They are really pleased with the conversions. If you have an old radio you like....convert it. You won't be disappointed. Have some fun, John
Posted on: 2/17/2012 5:15 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10963832

RE: Sagitta 900 glass fuse?
Sagitta Sagitta Fiberglass Fuselage I see by this thread a few of you would like to have a stock Sagitta fuselage made with fiberglass. I haven’t seen an actual fiberglass replacement to fit the stock layout of a Sagitta in a long time. I would like to share what me and my flying buddies are up to right now. We don’t have a replacement “Stock Sagitta fuselage” but we are using one that’s close. We have included the photos we took this weekend for you to look at, and think about. Feel free to comment on what we are up to. I have attached several photos of the Sagitta fuselages we now have. We show how they compare to the molded fuselage we plan to build as a replacement for a modified…longer wing…different airfoil “Sagitta Like”sailplane. We are stripping the old Sagitta fuselages now of their radio gear. Comparing Fuselages in the Photos Black/ Red/ Yellow – has an extended nose and a ½ inch longer tail moment. Extending the nose I was able to move all the old style (Futaba FPS148) standard servos forward, with the battery in the nose. This let me remove all the lead (3.5 oz.) that was required for the standard kit fuselage. This fuselage was extended when my grandson launched using the winch, with receiver switch off. It flew right out, and gently nosed over, hitting the ground hard enough to break the forward section. The extension was glassed along the bottom, inside. There are 6 kids flying this plane, and all practice their landing on the tape when they fly. It’s overbuilt by a large factor, I know, but holding up well, and still very nice to fly on a weak thermal day. The overall weight was 1.8 oz more than the stock fuselage ( where the stock fuselage includes the 3.5 oz nose weight it requires for balance.) This Sagitta has 10 inch added tips, making the wing 120 inches on this plane. This fuselage RTF without the wings or stab weighed 798 grams = 28.7 oz. after its repair. It measures: Nose to Rudder hinge line (bottom) = 45 ¾ inches Nose to Wing LE = 14 ¼ inches Wing TE to Rudder hinge = 21 ¼ inches White/ Red tail – This is the standard kit fuselage, painted lightly with K&B epoxy. The fuselage weighs 747 grams = 26.35 oz RTF without the wings or stab. It measures: Nose to Rudder hinge line = 42 inches Nose to Wing LE = 11 inches Wing TE to Rudder hinge = 20 ¾ inches My Brown unpainted fuselage ….is epoxy and fiberglass from the mold in the photo. It was built about 7 years ago. It weighs 212 grams bare. It’s a very close match to the Sagitta…with a few extras that make it a great replacement for a stock built, wood fuselage. The exact RTF weight is 606 grams = 21.35 oz. This is with the same three servos, paint on fuselage, same standard size Sanyo 600mah battery, and all hardware, bulkheads and servo tray in place. We are using a light built-up rudder and stab. It measures: Nose to Rudder hinge line = 47 inches Nose to Wing LE = 12 ¾ inches Wing TE to Rudder hinge = 24 ¼ inches Fuselage width at wing root = 2 7/8 inches Tail fin height = 10 inches Wing root faired for Eppler 205 = 10 inch chord Trying to improve the Stock Fuselage: Building the stock Sagitta kit as instructed, there’s a lot of timber in the tail. It could be lighter. Even a fiberglass fuselage with the pre-molded rudder fin is lighter. I say this, after comparing it to the fiberglass fuselage I built and made the mold for. I designed it for a 120 to 130 inch wing. The nose is 2 inches longer than the stock Sagitta. The tail moment is 3.5 inches longer, yet lighter overall. These were my calculations on what was needed for a little longer wing…other engineers may vary. {J The bare fiberglass fuselage you see in the photo was made in the mold next to it, and built with epoxy from Dow Chemical. This is Dow’s industrial grade epoxy, which tempered easily with a little added heat. Using this mold to make fuselages for a Sagitta type sailplane would be an easy fit. Anyone that did not want the extended tail moment (length) could easily cut it down, modifying the molded fin, or remove the molded fin completely and add a built up balsa fin in it’s place…thereby having the standard length tail, and a standard Sagitta airframe with a fiberglass fuselage. It will have a longer nose, and you won’t need the 3 to 4 oz of lead commonly found in the stock Sagitta’s. I really like this fuselage. The extended tail it has, is needed if you want to build a Sagitta type plane….with a longer than 100 inch wingspan. It’s an easy change to make, to the standard kit if you want to. The experts can tell you why it will fly better…overall. It’s just pure fun for me and my flying group of grandkids with all their friends included. This being the same type of high, shouldered wing fuselage as the Sagitta 900, means you could use your old wings and get the overall weight down with the fiberglass fuselage. See the photos “of the stock “RED Sagitta wing”…matched to the new fuselage. You could use the newer, lighter servos and lipo battery and easily beat our weights shown above. Not really needed to fly, but it’s our group’s next step for a lighter, good flying sailplane. We are going out to 120 and 130 inches on the two planes we are building now, with two more planned by Spring. I haven’t molded a canopy for this fuselage yet. We just used light framed balsa for the canopy. I doubt a fiberglass canopy will weigh much less, but I plan to look at doing an easy mold for one later. I have a real fondness for the original Sagitta fuselage shape and curves. I like everthing about it, even the box square shape, and the slender overall, oval shape, aft of the wing. It’s just right. I was thinking of molding a whole new fuselage, when time permits, changing to the longer nose and tail moment, but keeping the main lines of the Sagitta ….just gently stretched. It’s not a Sagitta when you change a single thing, I know, but it’s worth updating to get the tail lighter and the battery with servos forward for simple balance. Getting the weight down from stock, will just be a flyers delight. We need the four (4) super sized sailplanes for Spring….Our group is call “The Texas Red Tailed Hawks”. We are going to call the new planes “Red Tailed Hawk”, and no matter what other color we make them, they will all have bright red tails. We don’t have to keep the Eppler 205 airfoil, and scratching a wing with a different airfoil set of wing ribs, is the same basic job as copying the airfoil outline in the plans. The fuselage we are making has the faired shoulder at the wing root, that can be easily faired to any other airfoil. Speaking of airfoils a little change can be a good thing. You can pick what suits you. Have some fun…it’s a hobby. Please yourself…wing it your way.! We are! I’m not going to debate the re-engineering of a CLASSIC sailplane here. That’s not the point at all. I just want to bench a sailplane I’ll love to fly. I just wanted something I could easily build myself. Then, make another, just as quick, to just give away to a kid that loves to fly, or watch them build themselves, with a watchful eye. It’s got to fly, and it’s got to fly well. An updated version of a Sagitta like sailplane….just makes it safe, that after all the work, you’ll be flying a plane that can do what it’s done for 35 years ....”Reach for the Sky”. The Sagitta has been a good sailplane for us, it’s easy to fly, thermal and repair. The ones we have need to be replaced soon, so this is where we are going. Then it’s time to practice and fly what you know, with something that works well, and practice some more in every kind of wind or weather. Skills first….advanced plane…later. The Gentle Lady’s are the thermal queens of all time, but just too fragile for the kids to use a winch on…with a safety margin. The Sagittas I have, all built with stock (no carbon) wings, have been winched their whole life with no failures. Yes, we use the tap…tap…tap method of launch on the winch, but with the slightest wind, it’s a good method to kite the Sagitta to its highest point. It will zoom if you want it to…just keep you brain connected to your foot when you do. However, adding carbon fiber to the new wings in the right places, can only make a better wing, and a better plane. I see other posters here may be looking at fabricating their own molds for their version of a Sagitta replacement fuselage. We are not trying to get in the way of that, or anyone’s business pursuit. We will be building a run of the fuselages shown for our own use, If you’d like to try one let us know. We don’t know what to charge…we can figure it out….what’s fair? We don’t even know yet. What’s a good fuselage worth, you tell us! What can we get it to weigh? We’ll see. We have the right fiberglass but currently no Kevlar or Carbon fiber. We are shopping for it now, it adds to the cost for sure. We are serious about getting it right, light and stout. It’s a project all by itself. This is no charity! We have group projects that we have done locally, to keep the glue and balsa in stock. We have funded the radio conversions of all our old radios, to FrSky 2.4 ghz, and our plans collection by similar fund raising. The kids have all worked to get what they have, and the skills to do it themselves. The shop I provide is just a place for it all to happen. It’s a great case of organized chaos. Please look this fuselage over. All engineers and non-engineers invited. Let us know what the engineering math says about our pursuit, or just what you think. We really appreciate constructive comments. Later, John and the Kids
Posted on: 1/16/2012 3:48 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10911108

RE: American Aircrat Modeler Plans
Hello Thermaler, Did you find the plans to Hal's Eclipse? I was interested in getting a set of plans also. Please let me know, Thanks, John
Posted on: 12/8/2011 7:15 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10850855

RE: How to actually find lift is now on several sites...
I agree.....the Prodigy is a nice 2Meter....light and penetrates a mild wind well...giving you time after launch, to roam and range out front ...thermal seeking. Balanced right ( it's a very narrow range) it indicates lift really well. I liked flying it against the glass slippers in it's hay-day. It's a shame it's not still in production. You just need the plans and a handful of balsa to chop out another one....it would be worth the effort.
Posted on: 12/8/2011 7:06 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10850835

RE: NEGATIVE FEEDBACK: Northeast Sailplane Products
Hello Highflight and all you other Northeast Sailplanes Products customers, Highflight, I'd try to trace the money order, see if it has been cashed, if not see if you can cancel and get your refund. Unless you get hold of NSP and they respond. Please let us know here what you find. Warning to all: The NSP website is still up and running, taking orders and money online. We can't find anyone who has talked to them, or recieved any reply from them in any form. This is an update on the best I can find about Sal and NSP. The Ebay site is active and it appears Sal is selling some brushless motors online as "salnsp". I have tried to reach him through the Ebay feature " Ask the Seller a question". I did this 14 days ago, there is no response from "salnsp", to any of my questions on the motor he was selling. To date...there are no replys to recent messages left on the phone machines to any NSP website phones listed. No replys to many emails to all available addresses. No replys at all since the end of October 2010, when I started trying to reach them. The website is up and running, I cannot find anyone that has ordered recently from them, and recieved their orders. I have no information on NSP's Ebay dealings, or if orders there are being filled for customers doing business there. Please be careful. I hope anyone that has done any business with them recently...please let us know how your order went, by posting something here. Thanks, John
Posted on: 2/24/2011 9:00 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10361978

RE: NEGATIVE FEEDBACK: Northeast Sailplane Products
Thanks a lot Peter, I'll check with Sal through the E- ay site. John
Posted on: 2/12/2011 2:24 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10331102

RE: NEGATIVE FEEDBACK: Northeast Sailplane Products
This is just a follow-up. Has anyone out there done any business with NSP in Dec. 2010, Jan. 2011, or Feb. 2011? Please post here if your orders were online, and processed OK. I see the NSP website is still up and running...but they will not respond to emails or phone calls. Please let us know if you have recently made contact with NSP. Thanks, John
Posted on: 2/10/2011 2:28 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10326721

RE: Bob Dodson/LoveSong
Catsmeow1051, Saw this over yonder, about Dogdson kit's for sale today. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1371618 Just be careful...he's a new member (Dec. 2010) , no ratings...follow the best rules of online buying. Have fun...go fly, John Taylor
Posted on: 1/15/2011 12:11 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10264640

RE: NEGATIVE FEEDBACK: Northeast Sailplane Products
Thanks ove1982, Please let us know how your order turns out at NSP. John Taylor
Posted on: 1/10/2011 11:47 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10254607

Don't Miss This ! Airtronics SD-10G with 10 Channel RX...for $ 379.99
I not a salesman, but I like the Airtronics SD-10G a lot. It's a World Class Radio that does it all, and priced at $ 379.99 with the matching 10 channel RX , it's a great buy. See what I'm talking about at : http://www.skipmillermodels.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=90100 We need to hurry, it's too good to last long!!! [:o] Have fun, John Taylor
Posted on: 1/10/2011 11:09 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10254585

RE: NEGATIVE FEEDBACK: Northeast Sailplane Products
NewIberia3D, I'm sending you a PM. John Taylor Update: 1/6/2011 I have not heard from Northeast Sailplane Products. I have called many times each week, sent emails, letters and letters by registered mail. There is no reply. Yet as shown above, the website is still up and running, advertising all their products for sale, taking orders and payments of all kinds, from people worldwide. Please be careful. If anyone talks to them this month, please let us know. Thanks, John Taylor
Posted on: 1/6/2011 6:02 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10244437

RE: NEGATIVE FEEDBACK: Northeast Sailplane Products
Hello "ove1982" and "NewIberia3D", We are all wondering what is going on at NSP. Did you both, just order on the website at NSP? Did your online orders, process online, just fine...no prompts or other messages? It seems to date, across the web...noone has spoke to them in the month of December 2010, as outlined above, and we are now into January 2011. I ask you to please, Do Let Us Know, how your confirmed orders turn out....by posting your response here. We would all appreciate the information. If anyone has talked to NSP this month, Jan. 2011, please let us know. The open and running website, advertising all it's listed products for sale, and is taking online orders, is causing confusion with customers that can not contact anyone at NSP, through emails or phone calls. John Taylor
Posted on: 1/6/2011 4:01 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10244365

RE: Kit carwax mold release
Dreadnaut's advice comes from experience. My advice matches his. Buy mold release products that are made to resist the chemical penetration of epoxy solvents, or fiberglass resin solvents. Your final results will be better over a very long time, with a seasoned mold, that has repeated coats of proper release agents. A single can of Partall will last a long time. It's a small expense to get the best results. When doing layup of large 10 foot wide by 20 foot long flat sheets, on slick, glossy, formica topped laminate tables....you can get away with just a good coat of carnuba wax....even plain old Johnson's furniture wax. When you get into molds with multiple curves, tight halfrounds, long slender sections....the best release agents get you two things. 1. You get a clean shiny part, out of the mold. 2. Your mold is ready to go again with a quick coat and buff. Have fun, John[:D]
Posted on: 1/4/2011 2:20 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10239470

RE: NEGATIVE FEEDBACK: Northeast Sailplane Products
I see no one has mentioned, talking to NSP this month. Still no answer from them.
Posted on: 1/2/2011 1:46 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10233424

RE: Northeast Sailplanes
Aeajr's advice matches my own. "Buyer Beware" is an old saying that still fits today, about business you do anywhere. "Is Northeast Sailplanes (NSP) still in business?' Is a question that has been ask by many across the web, and stands unanswered. I don't know. The fact that their website is still up and functioning is driving the confusion you read about. The facts are, my own calls and emails sent directly to NSP over the last thirty days, are all unanswered to date. I can't find anyone, anywhere across the many forums, that has talked to NSP directly in the last two months (DEC and NOV 2010) . I have carefully done the search to answer for myself, what is going on at NSP. I still don't know. I'm not flaming any business or person, this is just what I know. Be careful. Always, call to check product availability, before ordering online. If you can't get any answers to your calls or emails, it may be best to shop elsewhere. There are other good sites, that like customer calls, about products they have- in stock- to sale. Have fun.
Posted on: 12/27/2010 2:09 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10220273

RE: NEGATIVE FEEDBACK: Northeast Sailplane Products
I had an order ready to go for 2 kits, one radio, and wanted to get in touch with them on a question I had about one of the kits. I can't reach them, it's been a week of emails, and phone calls. No response. So I start looking to see if anyone knows if they are out of business and find this , along with the RC Groups comments about all the same problems. Update: 12/27/2010 By John Taylor I, like many others have ask " Is Northeast Saiplanes still in business?" My many calls over thirty days directly to them, has only reached the answering machine. My emails to all the published business email accounts are unanswered. Not one reply, to date. The website is still up and functioning, which as you search for yourself, you will see the site is driving the confusion. Not one person on any forum, any where, has mentioned reaching NSP in the last two months. There is no response to their calls or emails. Customers talk about canceling online orders through their credit card companies, or online payment methold, not by contact with NSP. This is not me flaming anyone or any business. This is simply the facts, after a careful, systematic, lengthy search. The answer is : No one Knows if Northeast Sailplanes Products is still in business! I simply suggest you try to reach any company to check availability, on what you want to order, before you order online. "Buyer Beware" is an old saying, that stands true today. Be careful.
Posted on: 12/27/2010 1:32 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10203143

RE: Laminate Thickness
Ghost, It's fine to use what you have. The Gelcoat is a good idea, it adds color to the molds inside surface. It will work fine. It doesn't have to be thick, just an even coat. the right color, usually white, or black helps you see any bubbles in your layup. There are lots of videos on layup techniques, just take your time, study a little, and try it. I have molds that are just natural resin, no color at all. I have used Polyester fiberglass resin, Vinylester resin, and many types of epoxy resins for molds. The poly and vinylester resins are cheaper for me...and done right you get just as many pulls off them. It's the prep for release that makes the difference. They work well even for epoxy laminated projects, like epoxy fuselages. Your first layer over your plug should be a smooth coat of resin, no bubbles, gelcoat is fine, if you are going to have the inside of the mold colored. I use c-vail glass in tight areas first, where you see some use a putty made with resin and cabosil, or talc, or other filler. I don't like the putty, it is prone to surface cracking when stressed. The very fine c-vail is easy to use, very easy to wet out. Then followed by the 3/4 oz fine regular weave glass. Your layup of other glass weights, and layers after that, is really set by what you need for strength. Just glass might be fine, for a short, compact fuselage like you are looking at. The more curves, and flare you have in the body will add to it's structural strength. You might not need core material, to get what you need for it to be strong enough. You can add bulkheads across the fuselage, and make it strong, even with a thin fuselage layup. I have grandkids, and kids with out dads, I work with several days a week after school . They are 8, 10 and 12 and built a mold for their own projects. I helped, but they did just fine. They were mighty proud when the first one popped out, slick, shiny and no pinholes. One of them told me he liked building more than he did flying. He worked hard to get it right, the satisfaction of seeing it finished...makes him want to do it again. The moment of realization....they see they can do it, they did it and well. It's a great feeling for them...and seeing the change come over them is like they say...Priceless. You can do it. Stay in touch, ask lot's of questions, you'll get a feel for what you need to do, even before you start. The simple problems can be avoided...just know what they are. Like mixing too much resin at once. It's wasteful but the real problem is it kicks faster. It's better to pre measure 3 small batches, resin only into separate plastic bowls, or pails. Have the catalyst if its poly or vinyl resin ready to mix quickly, when you need it. Same for epoxy hardner, if you use epoxy resin. Don't use a fast cure setup...slow it down for you first few projects. I put the mold in a heat box, anyway, so it will set hard each time, no matter what. Plenty times the kids got one batch mixed hot, and we just, stopped using the resin that was kicking off, and followed with fresh mixed to finish and close the layup. It's not a problem, but you will find it confounding, if you aren't ready to deal with it. Good laminate, has it's own plan, and flow. You lay it all out first. Then begin. You will need the small rollers, a few different shapes will help, to roll out the bubbles. They look like a finned aluminum tube. You've probably seen them. Keep some methylene chloride handy to quicky soak them, rinse off resin before it sets. It's easy to keep them clean often than, to clean them once it's set. We dip them often as we go along, one end of the mold to the other. Have a Happy Holiday, John Taylor
Posted on: 12/24/2010 2:21 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10215259

RE: Laminate Thickness
Hey! Ghost, That's a nice plane...looks fast. I don't fly much slope...but it looks like a lot of fun. Do you have one now, or just looking to build your own version of it? It's not hard to do, just stay close to the inbounds of what you see already works...to start. I mean, weight, span, tail moments ... a close clone maybe with the airfoil you'd like to try. You can do it. John .
Posted on: 12/22/2010 2:24 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10211217

RE: Epoxy / polyester compatibility
topwing uk, I'm sure "gldviking", "tlar", and "yachtie 2k4" got it right...the epoxy will be the strongest bond for a small span area. Where you are bonding to polyester each side of the break , with a narrow area for each side you are trying to get a bond to. The area does need to be sanded, and cleaned with acetone. Sand an area slightly wider than your glass width. If the fuselage is broke clean in two, it's hard to join, keep it aligned, and glass it. It can be done, it's easier if its mostly round at the break. You need to support the break. Inside is best. I have used the cardboard paper towel roll, split down the length. Taped with a gallon size plastic baggie to one edge of the cut. Roll the plastic around the tube, plastic outside, leave a little long, and trim the excess. Curl it like you would a magazine, with the taped edge (mag bound side, inside the curl) inside the curl. Insert it down the fuselage. Prop up the front and rear on a table, to hold it just close for now. Then, taking any latex bladder, a glove finger or two, fit to a tube, anything long enough to work with and wrap it tight to the tube where the end will be free to inflate enough, inside the center of the curl, to push the roll apart, and against the fuselage inside. Without it inflated, insert down, to the middle of the break, or close. Lightly inflate. Don't try to use your lungs to inflate...please use a compressed air source. It will stiffen the area of the break. Block it now high enough on each end, so you can wrap glass around it. Set the alignment, wrap with glass that is coated with resin. Lay a piece of mylar, cut slightly wider than your glass, wrap it around (going same direction as your glass wrap), about one and a half times the diameter of your fuselage. I next use, electrical tape starting in the middle, attached to the free end of the mylar, and draw it tight , wrapping the same direction as the glass, mylar wraps. Have paper towel handy for the ends of the mylar, to wipe the excess resin. Wrap the electrical tape tightly back and forth over your glassed repair area only. Let it sit for a few minutes...the resin ozzing out will slow...wipe it clean, both sides. Now wrap with the tape, each end. Just the ends. Check the alignment...and leave it alone till cured good. When you unwrap it later, it will be smooth, or lightly humped at the break, but strong and light. The exact weight of glass, and the amount of glass to wrap the break with should be close to what the fuselage was made of. Pull the paper towel roll. Good luck on your repair...you can do it. Hope this helps, it worked for me. John Taylor
Posted on: 12/21/2010 7:40 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10209534

RE: Laminate Thickness
Magne, You need to order the free sample box from NIDAcore. They will send you a sample of all their core materials. Take the Matline and do a small test layup. There are several thicknesses included. I use the two thinnest they make, the most. I use the Matline core for very thin laminate structures. It's often a 3/4 oz fine, tight weave glass, first in the mold, followed by a 1 1/2 oz layer, then matline core, and another 1 1/2 oz glass layer. I will add extra glass and core material to areas that need, extra strength, but as little as I can. I am at sea level here on the Texas coast, so I get a little more vacuum than other higher areas, but I do use all the Hg I can when molding a fuselage with Matline core. It compresses the layup a lot. I don't need the matline saturated, just through bonded to the last layer on top. It works. Most of the fuselages you see made for RC models are just one or two layers of glass, no core backing glassed in. I don't know why. They will often just add another layer of glass, carbon fiber, or kevlar...to stiffen the fuselage, But it's still not rigid...like you would want. I see many, with the thinnest streak of carbon fiber tow, looking like a marks-a-lot was used to draw a line down its length, with one layer of glass. The carbon fiber in that case will not help. I'm not sure they really think it's enough. Maybe it's just easier, cheaper, taking less time , and less money ...than adding core material that can really strengthen it. [:@] To stiffen any structural laminate...you can use balsa, or even Dow blue panel foam. It will not absorb resin. ( In this case it's Better to use than Balsa) You can take it and strip 1/16, 1/8, or 1/4 thick strips 3/4 in wide. Use the strips, instead of the matline. You will end up with a glass layer formed over the rectangle shape of the foam...forming a sort of C-shape. It will be very stiff when setup. You don't get the strength from the foam, like a lot of people think. You get it from the structural shape of the hardened glass that forms the C. It stands apart from the first layers in the mold..backing it..formed as one solid laminate. The NIDAcore does the same thing...it's a thinner laminate...not as stiff as using the thicker C-shapes, but "STRONG ENOUGH". You might have to do it several different ways, to understand, or get to what you want, as strong and stiff enough...for your project, and the area you are building up. You can do it. Many times the stiffeners are only needed in the broad flat, or flexible areas of the fuselage. It's ok to space them as needed, and only long enough to strengthen the weak area you are concerned about. Like a tail area. Divinycell foam and Hexcel foam are very expensive core foams, that don't absorb resin. They are pretty crush-proof. They are great for strong light laminates like Boat decks, interior light weight walls, airplane bulkhead formers, wing structures etc. You don't need them! When bonded between the glass layers where they are used...they do the same thing as the blue foam. They may be a little firmer to squash...but in the end, it's not the foam that counts, it's the glass formed around it, the "shape of the layup" as a whole that gives it the most strength. There are other core materials I use a lot, that don't absorb resin. I use the round closed cell foam, it comes on a roll, that looks like a foam rope. It comes in 1/4 in, 1/2, 3/4 etc. Its very light and flexible, insulation used to stuff into open gaps, around doorjambs in new construction. I split it down the length, to form half rounds. Like the blue foam it gets a layer of glass over it to form a C-Shape, backing the main laminate in the mold layup. It's great stuff, because it can be formed, curved, circled, and glassed. Even if you are not vacuum bagging it. That layer of glass on top your core doesn't have to be perfect to be strong. I mean, wet out all the glass, but you don't have to saturate it till every pin hole disappears and the surface is slick. I often wet and roll out the last layer of glass on an 8 inch wide piece of Mylar, cut to whatever length I need. I lift or slide the glass onto the core, form it lightly and bag it. The vacuum will form it tightly around the core strips. It doesn't have to be all one piece either....you could use wet strips just wide enough to cover the strips and reach down each side, laying out enough to touch the layer below, and form a small flange the length of your strips. Which is the way to go, maybe, if your strips are spaced far apart, and you don't need a whole extra layer of glass, spanning between the strips. Lifting the glass after rolling out the excess resin, the glass is still wet, but you will see its got gaps, or pin holes, most the time , it is still going to be very stiff, and strong enough, when it cures hard. My point is its ok to have some pinholes. Think of a steel bridge with an open lattice of steel cross members, spanning the river. Wet open weave will still be pretty stiff shaped to the backing for your main laminate. It needs to be light. [;)] There's lots of other core materials you can use...even heavy dense ones work if you are building a battleship. [:D] My point is, to see the shape it forms in the glass...and not so much what the core is made of. Have some fun.....Make your own 12 inch x 12 inch flat laminates on a waxed surface, to see and test it for yourself. Use foam dinner plates, just the flat center part. Use your medium weight glass. Lay up glass, foam piece ( with a few holes in it from heated t-pin), glass, foam, glass. Then another one...Just glass and resin, but add an extra layer of glass. The last layup piece... use the lightest glass you can find...layup glass, foam (with pinholes), and light glass. You can bag them all, or not , it won't matter for the test. When cured out. Pull them up, and try to flex them. The last layup you did, will be as stiff as the all glass layup. The first one will be overkill...and very very stiff. Don't bend them to the point you break them....[>:] because you can use them to make bulkheads, electric motor mounts, or light weight flat panels. You will see my point on using light weight cores is best, instead of many layers of glass, is all I'm trying to tell you. To answer you last question: The H8PP is a pretty thick honeycomb with scrim bonded to the stiff hexagon core. It's too thick for my projects, ( sailplanes), I have not used it. but could be used maybe in wings. The scrim helps it bond the rigid core to whatever you use top and bottom on it. The core strong is also good in sheer strength. Might work cut in thin long strips for wing sheer webs. The H11PP sample I have is glassed with thin layer of fiberglass, and white gelcoat already, top and bottom. Like in the video at NIDAcore...see the hammer test. It is tough stuff. You can figure the best use for it. I have not used it. It looks bulletproof. By itself, cut in thin strips, it might make a very good wing spar...nothing else needed. Good luck on your project, yell at me if you have questions. I'll be glad to share with anyone, what works for me. [8D] Merry Xmas and have a Happy New Year [:)] John Taylor
Posted on: 12/21/2010 6:02 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10209337

RE: Laminate Thickness
Ghost, What size, type, and weight of plane are you building? John
Posted on: 12/21/2010 5:28 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10209340

RE: Fiberglass cloth source?
I have used Thayercraft for fiberglass, and both http://stores.ebay.com/Elite-Motoring and http://cjcompositestechnology.com/ for Carbon Fiber and Hybrid Cloths. Their prices are very good, and they are USA companies. They ship fast and will do small orders. Good luck with your project, John Taylor Fixed Links Above..
Posted on: 12/21/2010 12:10 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10193910

RE: 2.6oz CarbonFiber/Kevlar source??
Site links I listed above have been fixed fixed.
Posted on: 12/21/2010 12:02 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10209128

RE: 1k carbon fiber cloth
This dealer is USA, Lower prices, High quality, good service, I have used them...you should check them out. http://cjcompositestechnology.com/ Good luck with your project, John
Posted on: 12/17/2010 2:53 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10193804

RE: 2.6oz CarbonFiber/Kevlar source??
I have used both http://stores.ebay.com/Elite-Motoring and , http://cjcompositestechnology.com/ Carbon Fiber and Hybrid Cloths. Their prices are very good, and they are USA companies. They ship fast and will do small orders. Good luck with your project, John Taylor Links above fixed today...sorry about that.
Posted on: 12/17/2010 2:45 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10193915

RE: Laminate Thickness
Guys, The fiberglass for fuselages can be very thin applied to the mold. Say fine 3/4 oz woven glass first to give smooth surface, no pinholes. It's easy to apply, bends into corners easily. It wets out nicely, then apply a 1 1/2 oz or 2 oz woven to the mold. Lightly wet it out, then apply in the main areas of the fuselage "NIDAcore Matline 201" core material. This thin core material is very flexible. It is perforated with holes so it will bond top and bottom layers, it will not absorb epoxy, or polyester resin. It can be slit at the ends in pie shaped wedges to fit a pointed nose. It's ok if it has a gap. It only needs to fit into the main curve of the fuselage sides, leaving 1/4" or 1/2 " all the way around the edge of the mold uncovered. This edge will be seamed with extra glass tape when the fuselage halves are joined later. With the NIDAcore in place, apply one more layer of thin 3/4 oz woven glass lightly wet out. Place the whole thing on a vacuum bag. The pressure will compress it all into a very thin, light , and stiff fuselage side. Using this type of core material, builds bulk which stiffens the sidewalls. The thickness of the core material holds the last layer of glass you put in out from the first layers of glass. The perforations allow resin to weep through creating hundreds of very small bonding points that strengthen you laminate, without extra weight. If you built a wing and alternated glass, NIDAcore, Glass, NIDAcore, glass etc. You will end up with a thicker laminate, Very Very stiff, and Very light weight. Balsa sheet can be used as laminate core in the same way. But it will soak up resin into itself. NIDAcore will not, when you vacuum bag it, the excess will be pushed out. The only extra resin is at the perforations...which are needed, and not any measurable excess weight, for the small structures we are building. There are other core materials that will work, but I have used the full range of NIDAcore products. Go on line, and order their free sample kit, it has 5 inch square samples of each core material they make. Learn to use them in the right places, and you will have mastered the fine art of Strong And Light Laminations. Carbon fiber is great stuff, but a properly cored fiberglass laminate can be stiffer, Lighter, and more impact resistant than the fuselage made of several layers of Kevlar and Carbon fiber uncored. It will cost less, which is why I use it. Yes, If you use NIDAcore with kevlar and carbon fiber layers, it will be even stronger, than just glass. I just need it to be strong enough...you decide if you need it bulletproof. I hope this helps you guys, It works for me. Good luck with your projects, John Taylor Here is the NIDAcore site: http://www.nida-core.com/english/nidaprod_honey_h8pp.htm
Posted on: 12/13/2010 5:00 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10193873

RE: Looking for a super hard , brittle epoxy ?
Post curing any epoxy, will help strengthen the epoxy crosslink polymer bonds. This is done done by heating slowly and carefully raising the temp to 140 or 180 degrees . All epoxies have a BEST post cure temp specified by the maker for best strength. It will vary between brands and formulas. You do not have to go to the max temp to get a stronger more rigid bond. Many epoxies will post cure very easily in sunlight. Keeping such musical instruments exposed to sunlight, warmed evenly by rotating ocassionaly will help. A simple box of 3/4 inch blue foam with heat lamps on one end, Not directly heating the object, will evenly heat anything in it ...use a temp gauge, and raise the temp slowly. Post cure is best done when the epoxy is fully set...not laid up and put straight to the box.
Posted on: 5/13/2010 1:00 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9730334

RE: fiberlass advice needed
The range of hazards is huge with polyester, and vinylester fiberglass resins. You need to get more involved than this forum advice will provide. You need to know first...that the dust in the entire shop area will have a paticulate count per square foot of air...that contains many things the lungs cannot dissolve once inside. Only the organics will be diminished in years to come. Polyester resin is not dissolved by the body...it will bed itself in the lung and be there years later. So true for glassfiber, any kind, carbonfiber, fiberglass insulation, polyester peel ply that has been ground...etc. The shop will give you a respirator...by all means keep it clean, good filters, and wear it. The off gas from catalyzed resin is toxic to the blood, not to be breathed or absorbed thru the skin. The shop will be heavy with vent fan systems for this reason...but in tight quarters, in and around molds in layup...keep your head up out of the tight spaces where you can get heavy off-gas concentrations. Use a gas respirator...not a dust respirator for fumes. They will train you in all aspects of safety...don't listen to the guys around you if they don't do things the safe way...do as you are taught. Take the time to collect all the MSDS sheets on the chemicals, resins, solvents, cleaners and any other products with hazard warning labels. They say alot about how to properly handle them, use them, and protect yourself from their dangers. You have a right (OSHA) to all information you request. If you are going to be in an industry, learn the industry. You can be safe on your new job...You need to learn how. There is a list of the TOP 50 known carcinogens...CANCER PRODUCING AGENTS...(American Cancer Society) ....get the list...know the chemicals and compounds . You will see 25 of them, everyday in the fiberglass business. Every industry has some type of hazard....Your safety in the end is up to you, learn to guard yourself, act on it when you see or think you are heading out of it's bounds. AN MSDS sheet...read by one man...saved 5 on one cold day! PM me and I'll share it with you.
Posted on: 5/13/2010 12:47 AM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9730447

RE: Can i use 1.5oz fiberglass on my airplane?
The lighter fiberglass has a fine weave, it's easy to apply and wet out. The highs and lows seen later when set will be easy to fill, to a smooth slick surface. When more strength is needed in a stress area, extra layers of thin glass will be bette. You will have the best of both worlds...Lighter and Stronger in the end. Build light should be the heart of any aircraft design, with strength in areas of stress.
Posted on: 5/12/2010 11:52 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9730355

RE: No way to make offer!
Thanks, JWN I appreciate your help. I sent the seller an email message...in hopes he still had the item. I will try again to send him my offer, through RCU. Thanks again, TTK
Posted on: 4/9/2010 10:34 PM by Author "TexasThermalKing" in the forum "MarketPlace questions or problem?"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9649958