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RE: Leopard 1
I've been slowly obtaining the parts over the years to convert my original Leopard to full option and now this re-release makes things a little easier for turret rotation at least. Has anyone else found any other parts on the new re-release that have changed from the original to allow better conversion? I don't see a Pershing F7 part which bolts to the turret ring and allows for the recoil unit (edit: i think its the elevation unit actually) to be mounted... Had anyone tried to add it? Maybe they are (*wishing*) a full option version later with more converted parts! Thanks
Posted on: 9/9/2012 6:41 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222778
RE: RC10GT to SC10GT conversion
Ah crap, was looking for one myself... Guess we can always make our own (assuming Rob isn't making any more, if he is, disregard). What all did the kit consist of? Extended chassis? Thanks!
Posted on: 7/18/2012 12:31 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11160132
RE: How to open RC18MT Differentials for Oilling?
Just did the diffs in my sons RC18MT. I found the 1.5 Allen wrench that was included was crap, would not bite properly in the screw head. Went out and bought a little dubro 1.5mm driver, worked perfectly. Or simply look around the house for a Allen set... You simply stick another wrench or something in the opposite side out drive slot and then unscrew the allen bolt from the other side while holding the other out drive steady. Just make sure you do it over towel or something as there are seven little balls inside the out drive sandwiched between two washers. Cheers Tim
Posted on: 7/17/2012 8:30 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159438
RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Awesome thanks! Just ordered one from Tower with a Team sticker set to remove all those Thunder Tiger stickers lol. How close is the body to the 6134 associated one? Direct copy/same mold? Looks pretty close. - By the way, a fellow on EBay makes vacuum formed copies of many bodies including the original 6131 body. However I got in touch with him and he does not have an original 6155 or 6134 to copy from. If we can find an unpainted and uncut/trimmed 6155 or 6134, he an make a mold from it so future users can get replacement bodies. He also sends three replacement bodies to who ever donates the body to be copied. Now if only we can find a virgin 6155 or 6134! Cheers Tim
Posted on: 7/17/2012 3:42 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159093
RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Perfect fit for the short tube chassis/RTR or for the longer Factory Team/Blue flat chassis? Thanks will look though. Tim
Posted on: 7/17/2012 2:43 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159018
RE: Official RC10GT Thread
That was it thanks! Rough scan but good enough. Now to find a body to fit... Cheers Tim [quote]ORIGINAL: Big Alice      Look around in here. The gt manual is there. Right below it is a ''setup guide''. When I opened it, they call it a complete tuning guide. Might be what you're looking for. Worth a look.        <a href=''http://rcdocuments.com/?page=1''>http://rcdocuments.com/?page=1    [/quote]
Posted on: 7/16/2012 11:02 AM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11157423
RE: Official RC10GT Thread
That is only a few pages from the main guide... I'm trying to find the compete guide, thanks though!
Posted on: 7/15/2012 6:35 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156610
RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Also looking for the old RC10GT Tuning Guide that AE put out, I think it was part number 7190. (Mostly for nostalgia sakes) Unavailable now, anyone have a PDF or copy? Thanks!
Posted on: 7/15/2012 4:01 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156431
RE: Official RC10GT Thread
Hey guys, I'm restoring my old white parts RC10GT and converting to the Factory Team chassis (as well as removing all the old white parts and installing black). Ton of parts on order :-) I understand I need a longer body now (Proline 3127) but none are available anywhere. Can anyone recommend another body that will fit the RC10GT Factory Team sized chassis? Thanks!
Posted on: 7/15/2012 3:29 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Nitro Stadium Trucks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156392
RE: Tamiya Leopard 1A4 - Build Thread!
Finally got a little more work done. Man I tell you, follow the directions to the letter... what looked like you could "jump ahead"...there is a reason you shouldn't. Ah well, more entertainment. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-23.jpg[/image] Washing and more washing. I'd actually be impressed if there is much "mold release" left on such an old kit. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-24.jpg[/image] Waiting for things to dry. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-25.jpg[/image] Priming suspension arms. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-26.jpg[/image] Torsion bars and suspension arms starting to take shape. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-27.jpg[/image] All the suspension arms in. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-28.jpg[/image] Phew! [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-29.jpg[/image] Tons of metal clips for the suspension stops. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-30.jpg[/image] Suspension stops installed. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-31.jpg[/image] Top Roller mounts going in. They definately will be replaced with the AFV-Model units. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-32.jpg[/image] Clutch Actuator assembled. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-33.jpg[/image] Clutch Actuator showing the two pads that contact the clutch plates. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-34.jpg[/image] Transmission with Clutch Actuator installed. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-35.jpg[/image] Another angle of transmission with Clutch Actuator installed. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-36.jpg[/image] Transmission mounted. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-37.jpg[/image] Starting to install the fake shocks. They are very loose and not sure how they will look once complete. I've run out of plastic primer so it's time to hit the Hobby Store. Hopefully I'll get the wheels all primed and painted sometime tomorrow and start on the tracks soon. Cheers
Posted on: 12/28/2006 3:51 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5173898
RE: Tamiya Leopard 1A4 - Build Thread!
Well this one cost me a mint to get NIB, but it was worth it! I've been hunting for one for about 18 years! I gotta say I am impressed with some of the details in this kit! - Mud flaps are rubber - Engine screen is actually a screen (think house screen door) - Cannon top cover is rubber - Full suspension with torsion bars Did a little more work last night and then off to wrap more of the kids presents... I already got mine :-) I'm using Krylon OD for the lower chassis as it's so bloody huge and mixing the proper colour (Canadian Average Green likely) is rather expensive with Tamiya paints for the amount I need to cover. I'll see about the upper but since this is a "runner", I may stick with Krylon OD for ease and cost. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-20.jpg[/image] Bottom is primed and has a few coats of Kylon on it now. Ready for some basic assembly. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-21.jpg[/image] Torsion suspension mounts installed. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-22.jpg[/image] Some of the lower bits now screwed in. I'll give it a coat of OD over all the screws once things are ready. --- Thanks for the video! It would be alot of work (and money!) to convert this to a full C2 with Mexas. I'd love to do it but may have to wait for more spare cash to order that 1A5 turret. Fabricating the Mexas for that round turret looks like a major pain as well (need to learn how to make my own molds and resin). I'm actually very close to Canadian Forces Base Borden so I can take pics of the static Leopard there but alot of "items" have been removed since it's a gate guardian. This tank is near and dear to my heart since I recently joined the Canadian Forces myself (Reserve, Armoured Recce, Royal Canadian Armoured Corps) but of course I'll likely never see one in real life unless I deploy (we use G-Wagon's and Iltis for my unit). Also for those interested, there is lots of good info on the "Modern Canadian Vehicles" forum (http://www.network54.com/Forum/169232/). --- No problem Whitewolf, I'll be in touch before I order. If you find more of the vendors, please let me know! They might already make some of the parts I need. The hardest so far will be the C6 GPMG (M240B for you American types) since we only used the MG3 on the "rent-a-tanks" when we first got our Leopards. If anyone finds a M240B machine gun in a 1/16 or 1/18 (GI Joe size) for sale anywhere with a kit or boxed set, drop me a line! Back to Xmas morning (one son is sick, the other is a holy terror so far...great fun). Cheers Tim
Posted on: 12/25/2006 9:59 AM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5159047
RE: Tamiya Leopard 1A4 - Build Thread!
Just some quick priming and painting tonight (Xmas eve and all). [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-15.jpg[/image] Hull all washed and cleaned. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-16.jpg[/image] In my "spray booth" for priming... well really it's just a box on the hood of my wifes car...but hey who's looking ;-) [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-17.jpg[/image] Horrible colour for primer, but it's for metal and works good. This is the underside of the tank anyways....it's going to get ABUSED. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-18.jpg[/image] All done with Krylon Olive Drab. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-19.jpg[/image] Starting to put on some of the suspension bits, will need to put on another coat once screws are in place.
Posted on: 12/24/2006 9:24 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5157919
RE: Tamiya Leopard 1A4 - Build Thread!
This website will give you an idea of what needs changing to convert it to a C1: http://www.trackjam.com/trackjam/lprdc1conv.htm Trackjam sells full kits and parts for various 1/35 and 1/72 scale, highly recommended! [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/lprdc1convasm.jpg[/image] Images of the conversion kit (white resin parts) shown on an Italeri 1/35 Leopard kit: [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/LeopardC1decals.jpg[/image] Trackjam/Mapleleaf Models also includes decals [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/minnis1.jpg[/image] Photo of a really nicely done 1/35 Leopard C1 by Mark Innis [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/minnis2.jpg[/image] Photo of a really nicely done 1/35 Leopard C1 by Mark Innis Note: All images in this specific post are courtesy of http://www.trackjam.com
Posted on: 12/24/2006 7:22 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5157502
Tamiya Leopard 1A4 - Build Thread!
Well it finally arrived the other day. One awesome *New in the box* Tamiya Leopard 1A4 R/C Tank. I'm going to start a build thread on it here but it will likely be a slow process for finishing since I am planning on converting this into a Canadian Leopard C1 Early Model (possibly a late) and will also likely do the Mexas add-on armour as per the Leopards that were deployed in Kosovo. There are still lots of aftermarket parts available, most from http://www.afv-model.de/, and those are RATHER expensive (also ship from Germany...ouch). I'll be placing an order soon for a bunch of items (So tempting to convert this into a full Leopard C2 with Mexas but wow that 1A5 turret is VERY expensive...still tempting though). I've taken some shots of the box opening and started to wash/prime the base chassis and other metal bits. I'll try using my Rogers/Yahoo account to post pictures but I'm not sure if it will work for direct links. EDIT: Looks like Rogers/Yahoo hates direct links, I'll try Photobucket. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-01.jpg[/image] Wow what a HUGE box... forgot how big the original boxes were. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-02.jpg[/image] Seller packed things well even inside! [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-03.jpg[/image] Massive upper hull. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-04.jpg[/image] Full aluminum chassis, neat! [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-05.jpg[/image] Ah good ol'blister packs, one of the little joys of old Tamiya kits. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-06.jpg[/image] Track parts, yes you have to build them up totally by hand and they are full-metal. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-07.jpg[/image] Gearbox with dual clutch arrangement. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-08.jpg[/image] More suspension bits. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-09.jpg[/image] Plastic part trees [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-10.jpg[/image] Size compared to my Mato Toys Tiger I. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-11.jpg[/image] Size compared to my Mato Toys Tiger I. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-12.jpg[/image] Size compared to my Tamiya Bruiser... this will be a good sized tank! [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-13.jpg[/image] Top shot comparison. [image]http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e251/Thorvald-WP/Tamiya%20Leopard%201A4/TamiyaLeopard1A4116RCTank-14.jpg[/image] Top shot comparison. More shots and build pics to come! P.S. Please let me know if the links don't work for the images, I still don't trust Yahoo Photos but it's all I have right now. Cheers Tim
Posted on: 12/24/2006 7:13 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5157316
Wanted - Tamiya Leopard 1 A4 Manual Scan (High Res)
Can someone email me a copy of the Tamiya Leopard 1A4 Manual? I just received my 1A4 but it has the Japanese manual. I've tried the one on Tamiya club but even at Medium Res, it's just too hard to read. Thanks
Posted on: 12/23/2006 1:39 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5152472
RE: VS tank track upgrade
[quote]ORIGINAL: mikeyt these are individual links on vs Abrams with foam pads glued on 86 links per side they work inside and outside and look good [/quote] I swear there was a website selling rubber pads pre-cut for the 1/24 tank tracks, you just had to glue them on. I'll have to dig up the link....
Posted on: 12/19/2006 11:19 AM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5134843
RE: VS tank track upgrade
VSTank M1 Individual Track Links work good on a VSTank Abrams. VSTank Leopard Individual Track Links don't fit properly on VSTank Leopard 2A6, they are either too loose or too tight. And yes they are VERY slippery on smooth flat surfaces (hardwood etc), work great outdoors though.
Posted on: 12/18/2006 3:21 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5131250
RE: TAMIYA PANTHER CONFIRMED!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Leo2A6 Owner Great ANOTHER WW2 german tank. How about an abrams, challie 2 or a full opt version of the Leopard 1 or gepard while they are at it. im actually getting tired of WW2 german armor. [/quote] No guff eh... I'd kill for a full-option Leopard 1... then of course I'd convert it into a C1 or C2 immediately :-)
Posted on: 11/20/2006 9:07 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5020747
RE: new vs tank accessories
Hmm, I wonder if this is somehow connected to why the VSTank Individual Track Links for the Leopard don't fit properly on the VSTank 2A6.... Perhaps the 2A5 is slightly smaller in wheelbase/suspension/whatever. I'll try pulling my track links off of my TM 2A6 and try them on my VSTank 2A6 and see if they fit better. If they do, I guess I'll need to find a set of TM Leopard Track links! --- Thanks for all the info, now I have to go out and buy a TM 2A5 and compare it to my VSTank 2A6 ;-)
Posted on: 11/17/2006 7:50 AM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5006884
RE: new vs tank accessories
[quote]ORIGINAL: Shagnifico The spool on my vs 2a5 is in the same place as tm 2a5, the parts are interchangeble and the track links fit the same. I don't own the new tm 2a6 and vs tank doesn't make that tank yet, they make their own 2a6. The decals on the vs leos have allways been wrong. I seriously doubt any training pzbtl was deployed to kosovo. Nobody's trying to fool you, vs tanks are authorized OEM versions of tm tanks, that means somehow tm makes money from vs tanks. They are all made at Shenzhen OEM factory A, except TM 2a6 and tiger are made at factory B. [/quote] Umm... You just confirmed what I stated, the VSTank Leopard 2A6 is not the same as the TM Leopard 2A6. Damn close... but not the same. My point was I was sick of people saying the VSTank is 100% the same as the TM including the same molds, when we know it's not (usually comes up in a "quality of VSTank vs TM argument"). From your additional info, we can now conclude: 1. VSTank Leopard 2A6 is from a different mold than the TM Leopard 2A6. 2. They are made by the same company but different buildings/factories. (This accounts for the misplaced stowage items, different workers, on the VSTank Leopard 2A6). 3. VSTank likely pays some sort of royalties for because the designs are so similar? So I assume the Leopard 2A5 and the M1 are not 100% TM molds either? Just very close copies? Or did VSTank branch away from using TM molds when they got to the Leopard series?
Posted on: 11/17/2006 5:24 AM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5006695
RE: new vs tank accessories
I found some good pics of a TM 2A5 and it still is not the VSTank 2A6... So that line of thinking doesn't wash unless TM revised their molds in the past and VSTank still uses the old molds. Highly doubtful. Go here: http://miniature-art.tripod.com/otherairsofttankreviews/id1.html - Decals are all KFOR (Kosovo), completely different. So the yellow Nato armour symbol vs white isn't explained. - Stowage Reel is on the REAR of the turret, not inside the pocket like the VSTank. So the factory workers must be "Drunk" when they assemble VSTanks on the "same factory line as TM". - Viewport on the TM 2A5 is thick like the TM 2A6, the VSTank is still thinner. Still must be a different mold or different factory. (Compare this pic of the TM 2A5 gunners viewport to the VSTank 2A6 from my pics on the yahoo group: http://miniature-art.tripod.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/abrams-leopard-details.jpg) Also forgot to mention that the VSTank individual track links are either too tight or too loose on the VSTank Leopard 2A6. My TM came with the links already installed and they are perfect. So something is different again with the suspension or links of the VSTank. Edit: The pic from the VSTank Pro USA site amazingly shows the stowage reel on the OUTSIDE of the Turret... Sheesh... they can't keep anything straight. Or they used a TM tank for their web promo shots :-) See here: http://www.vstankusa.com/leopard/product_natoa5-04.jpg
Posted on: 11/16/2006 5:50 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5004792
RE: new vs tank accessories
[quote]ORIGINAL: Shagnifico Yep same molds, same workers even. Who ever told you that vs 2a6 is same as tm 2a6 doesn't know what they're talking about. The vs 2a6 uses the tm 2a5 parts except with a legnthened barrel. That's why the vs 2a5 and 2a6 are exactly the same except the longer barrel. Even the decals are the same. Now the vs 2a5 and tm 2a5 are very similar, except that vs 2a5 has lights and all the other vs extras, and the tools on the deck don't have the camo pattern from the tank painted over them. VS is basically TM's export product. [/quote] Well I'm the one that told everyone that the two are not the same and I got the same response from the Marui Yahoo group. I quickly proved everyone wrong. The TM 2A6 and the VSTank 2A6 are not the same, I own both. Your comment about the VSTank 2A6 being the TM 2A5 might explain some things. I do not own a TM 2A5 to compare it to the VSTank 2A6. The part about the decals being the same doesn't work as the colours are wrong, however, is the TM2A5 decals the same as the VSTank 2A6? Also if they are from the same factory, why did they not use the TM 2A6 barrel on the VSTank 2A6? .... they are completely different mold wise (VSTank has less detail), take a look at the pics. --- I posted my comparison of the two tanks in the MaruiTankGroup@yahoogroups.com: Check the Photos section under "Marui vs VSTank" by Thorvald33: http://ph.groups.yahoo.com/group/MaruiTankGroup/photos/browse/45de I found over 30 differences, many of them are major mold differences. I.e. Not the same mold. --- Here is a list of some of the items (for pics that prove them, go to the yahoo group): Front fender light is painted orange on TM, not painted on VSTank. Marui has the orange light on a mast on the turret, VSTank does not, just a little nib where it could have mounted. Marui has short mud flap at rear of track, VSTank has longer mud flaps. Marui's Smoke Launchers lids are painted green, VSTank has grey painted lids. Marui headlight is painted, VSTank headlight looks a clear plastic insert that is not painted. Marui gun barrel has more detail, bolt/rivet holes, VSTank has less detail and no bolt/rivet holes. Marui has no molded hatch on bottom of chassis, VSTank does. Marui has yellow NATO armour symbol on fender, VSTank has white armour symbol. Marui commanders viewport is not painted "blue" like the VSTank is. Marui front fender has 6 small molded bolt heads, VSTanks are much larger. Marui has molded nib beside coaxial mg, VSTank has molded hole beside coaxial mg. Marui loaders viewport is wider than VSTanks which is much narrower. Marui rear of turret does not have rivets on seams of lids/hatches, VSTank does. Marui stowage "reel" is on the rear of the turret, VSTank Factory workers put the reel inside the "pocket" at the rear of the tank. The stowage items are completely different from the two tanks (less items on the VSTank). This one has be baffled, if they are the same factory, you think they would get it right on both tanks. I'm going to try to find some detail shots of a TM 2A5 and I'll compare it to my VSTank 2A6.
Posted on: 11/16/2006 5:38 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5004749
RE: new vs tank accessories
Same thing? Don't get me started on that old line "VSTank Pro's are the same as Tokyo Marui, just re badged". I have yet to see that. Everyone said that about the VSTank Pro Leopard 2A6 but I proved that false as well. The amount of differences on my TM Leopard 2A6 vs my VSTank Leopard 2A6 were astounding (I made a post regarding this on the Yahoo 1/24th TM group). If they use the same factory, they certainly do not use the same molds. And I'd still find that hard to believe because of the amount of misplaced parts on the VSTank Pro compared to the TM tank (if it were the same factory, you would think they would get them right unless they were "forced" to be slightly different so as to not copy 100%). I'm willing to bet its the same case with these accessories, but for a 1/24th size tank, who cares, they are likely good enough!
Posted on: 11/14/2006 7:41 AM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4994090
RE: new vs tank accessories
Idiots... I figured it out. Their webmaster must be a twit. The source shows the links to the pics as: [code]<img src="images/access\acc_m1a2/access_m1a2_01.jpg" width="406" height="39" alt="">[/code] The twit used a backslash instead of a forward slash. Winblows may like that but Mac/Unix do not (tried Mozilla, IE, Safari). This translates to: http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access%5Cacc_m1a2/access_m1a2_03.jpg http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access%5Cacc_m1a2/access_m1a2_04.jpg http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access%5Cacc_m1a2/access_m1a2_05.jpg http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access%5Cacc_m1a2/access_m1a2_06.jpg etc All no good. I tried my PC and the webpage loads correctly even with the screwed up anchor tags but the direct links from the source do not. The correct links are: http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access/acc_m1a2/access_m1a2_01.jpg http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access/acc_m1a2/access_m1a2_02.jpg http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access/acc_m1a2/access_m1a2_03.jpg http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access/acc_m1a2/access_m1a2_04.jpg http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access/acc_m1a2/access_m1a2_05.jpg http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access/acc_m1a2/access_m1a2_06.jpg http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access/acc_m1a2/access_m1a2_07.jpg http://www.vstank.com/vspro/images/access/acc_m1a2/access_m1a2_08.jpg Sheessh... go fire that webmaster. --- Anyways, it looks like VSTank has taken copied all the accessories from the new Marui M1A2 tank and is selling them separately: http://www.tokyo-marui.co.jp/products/rcbattletank/m1a2/index.html [image]http://www.tokyo-marui.co.jp/products/rcbattletank/m1a2/images/03.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.tokyo-marui.co.jp/products/rcbattletank/m1a2/images/04.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.tokyo-marui.co.jp/products/rcbattletank/m1a2/images/05.jpg[/image] [image]http://www.tokyo-marui.co.jp/products/rcbattletank/m1a2/images/06.jpg[/image] Nice, I'll have to order the sets and compare them to the TM for quality.
Posted on: 11/13/2006 6:37 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4991646
RE: new vs tank accessories
What was on that page? All their accessories image links are broken at present (all pics are blank).
Posted on: 11/12/2006 4:53 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4987122
RE: "Late" Road Wheels at Mato
I was just happy to be able to put my Tank back together! Of course now I can totally dissassemble it at any time if I want... but I have to remove the other side that I pressed on... ah well.. that can wait. I only had a few grub/set screws, so I was forced to use M3 machine screws for now. I'll hit the hobby store and grab a bunch next week. I'm afraid those machine screws will just be a mud and brush magnet ;-) --- Now I need a conversion kit to the Tamiya Battle System or something similar!
Posted on: 10/30/2006 6:40 AM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4932368
RE: "Late" Road Wheels at Mato
Ok, here we are with pics.... [size=5] [u][b]How to install and improve your HL Tiger 1 Metal Suspension[/b][/u] [/size] [size=3] [b]1.[/b] Remove all track related external parts from tank lower assembly (tracks, wheels, arms, pins, etc). [b][hr]2.[/b] Using the existing small hole in new metal suspension arms, drill out to hole to 3/32 for the tap (depends on your tap size). [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/1.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/2.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/3.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/4.JPG[/image] [b][hr]3.[/b] Using an M3 Tap, tap out the 3/32 hole you just drilled. Use a M3 screw to test/clean the threads when complete. [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/5.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/6.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/7.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/8.JPG[/image] [b][hr]4.[/b] Now we need to file down the splines on the retaining pin so it slides in and out without much binding. As you can see, without filing, it won't slide in. [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/9.JPG[/image] [b][hr]5.[/b] Install the pin in a drill, the cap stays inside the drill chuck, then hold a file against it until splines are removed. Test constantly to see if it slides in the suspension arm. [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/10.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/11.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/12.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/13.JPG[/image] [b][hr]6.[/b] Using a square hand-file, make a nice flat spot where the splines used to be (exactly like you would see on the shaft of an R/C car motor for the pinion gear). It is easier to just keep the pin in the drill and use the chuck as a vise. [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/12.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/14.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/15.JPG[/image] [b][hr]7.[/b] Slide the pin through the wheel and into the suspension arm till the flat spot is at the hole you tapped in step 2. Then install an M3x4 Set Screw (aka grub screw) or an M3x4 Machine Screw with thread lock into the suspension arm and lock down tight against flat spot of the shaft. [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/16.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/17.JPG[/image] [image]http://www.myrcmt.net/coppermine/albums/userpics/10077/18.JPG[/image] [b][hr]8.[/b] Let the threadlock dry and repeat on all the rest! [/size]
Posted on: 10/29/2006 5:47 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4930146
RE: "Late" Road Wheels at Mato
(Editted post to add tap and screw sizes) Ok, gave it some thought. Thankfully someone put a hole in the side of the suspension arm so it should be easily to tap it for threads. To make this easier it looks like the following would be a good idea (think of a pinion gear on an R/C car, feel free to add depth or better ideas): 1. Remove all parts from tank. 2. Using existing hole in new metal suspension arms, drill out to hole to 3/32 for the tap (depends on your tap size). 3. Using M3 Tap, tap out the 3/32 hole. 4. File down the splines on the retaining pin so it slides in and out without much binding (likely install in a drill and hold a piece of sandpaper against it until splines are gone). 5. Using a grinder or even a hand-file, make a nice flat spot where the splines used to be (exactly like you would see on the shaft of an R/C car motor for the pinion gear). 6. Slide the pin through the wheel and into the suspension arm till the flat spot is at the hole you tapped in step 2. 7. Install an M3x4 Set Screw (aka grub screw) with thread lock into the suspension arm and lock down tight against flat spot of the shaft. Voila, you can easily remove the wheels now and even adjust the amount of "tension" against the wheel so they spin freely (if you hammer them on too hard, they will bind and not spin well at all). I just performed this and it appears to work beautifully! Will post pics soon. (I also found that my #8-32 bolt method will need a large hole in the side of the gear box so it does not interfere. Thankfully there is nothing there to prevent the hole).
Posted on: 10/29/2006 1:34 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4929234
RE: "Late" Road Wheels at Mato
Well accuracy is a bit of a crazy goal for a sub $100 toy. If your spending $900 on the Tamiya Full Option, then sure, by all means. --- Well the first side of the wheels went on without too much trouble... the second side is a nightmare. I've now broken 4 of the plastic axles that the pins slide into on the body. Thankfully you can do a repair using an 8-32 machine screw, two washers and a nylon lock nut (you have to drill out the hole in the chassis to fit the #8). Not perfect but not bad. The plastic of the body is the next part to break and then you'll need to look at metal reinforcement. However the one at the front just broke while trying to hammer those stupid pins in, now I have to remove the entire gear box assembly to get at the hole. Not too pleased. Since I'm absolutely sick of trying to beat these stupid splined pins on, I may look at taking the entire thing apart again and re-working it (no idea how I will get those pins out now though...). I'll mess around with it some more but I may just junk it, not really worth wasting my time on if yet more plastic parts are going to break (someone needs to make a metal chassis for this thing). --- Word of warning to anyone that wants to do this upgrade! I would certainly advise against it at present unless your good at McGyvering things to fix what breaks. The design is simply too weak and they need a better way to affix the road wheels to the suspension arms.
Posted on: 10/29/2006 12:37 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4929044
RE: "Late" Road Wheels at Mato
$109 EUR?!? Ouch... Might as well invest that towards a real Tamiya Tiger I :-) Course I haven't totalled how much it is from Mato for all the metal upgrades, it might work out the same price!
Posted on: 10/27/2006 7:37 PM by Author "Thorvald"
in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4922812
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