RE: Having a brain fart...
Engine's too cold to set the idle or tune. The engine has to heak soak to at least 80c before you can accurately and effectively tune it or set the idle. Below that temp and the idle will be higher when you land than when you took off. So yes, the idle is likely higher when it's "cold".
Posted on: 11/20/2009 6:40 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9268381

RE: RCGF Engines
Like acetone,benezene, and MEK....
Posted on: 11/19/2009 11:43 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266712

RE: DA50-Popping noise in flight
I'm with both Dalton and w8ye. It's a combination of two factors. Timing and fuel. Too much fuel and advanced timing. Makes things go pop. If you managed to get the engine warmed up and did some full throttle runs you would likely hear what sounded like pea gravel rattling around inside the engine
Posted on: 11/19/2009 10:40 AM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264991

RE: Wild Hare Rc is terrific
The 2.10 will come up short on power for the 28% planes. Nothing extra for any kind of aerobatics. Plus the fuel bill will be horrible. Talk to Tom about a DLE 55. A little more money than a new Moki but extremely friendly to work with, more power, and much cheaper over time.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 11:49 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264308

RE: Dual Gas Tank Setup
Dual tank installations work fine. An over-under installation reduces CG shift more than a single large tank.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 11:42 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264290

RE: Fuel Lines
One line, the one going to the carb, should have a "tee" in it, with a fuel line running off the "tee" to act ast the fill. The fill line is simply plugged for flight. Correctly installed that fill line will pass through a "fuel dot" to permit sliding in and out of the fuselage for fill access. The other line acts as the vent and it never gets plugged unless the plane is in storage. Plug it then to limit odors or leakage. Inverted flight is not really a big leak issue. If you flew all day inverted I doubt you would see more than a minute or so difference in flight time between upright and inverted.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 3:17 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263181

RE: Help RCEXEL ignition
It takes manly man pressure to seat the cap. One of the 4 items I do not like about the cap design. But those are personal views....
Posted on: 11/18/2009 2:28 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263064

RE: Help RCEXEL ignition
bcchi and Jody, I had a cap the other day that was missing the upper contact spring. The darn thing was firing straight across to the side of the cap and down behind the silicone boot. So if that little sping isn't up there anticipate problems.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 1:23 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262929

RE: Why does it do it?
Detonation. That was the short answer but there are several other factors that combine and contribute to creating detonation. There are ways to run dramatically advanced timing but the average modeler does not have the machine tools or knowledge base to measure and modify various head dimensions and piston relationships.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 10:37 AM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9261228

RE: Are Hall Sensors Interchangeable between brands?
I cannot answer the question about the compatibility because I have not used the Vlach unit. However, not all hall sensors are created equal. Some are sensors while others are pick ups. Some sense from the south side of the magnet while others function with the north. So the answer to one question is that all hall sensors are not the same. Hall and pick up sensors do not typically have the ability to blow the primary ignition moducle unless the power leads are directly shorted. Without a fuse between the ignition and the sensor the effects of a dead short can travel back up the line.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 10:34 AM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262602

RE: My oh My, Which Engine?
The way the old kits always seemed to work out, I simply added a couple pounds to the anticipated finished weight. Went with engine sizes from there after factoring in a little for the additional drag of a bipe. If it comes in light the 80 will do it, but the Skybolt is a "muscle bipe" so spare power is somewhat nice. I've had a few Skybolts (kit built) and all of them finished up
Posted on: 11/17/2009 7:49 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9261223

RE: My oh My, Which Engine?
HP values are usually not to be trusted. The Evo, DA, and 3w are all great engines in the 80-85cc class. Any of the BME 100 to 116cc twins would fit and be lighter than any of the singles. You might need the weight though. You might also look at Fox to see if they are still maiking their 5.8 singles, and look around for a used Brison 5.8. The Brison would be an excellent engine and the cost would be in the affordable range. Taurus engines may still have one of theirs on the shelf.
Posted on: 11/17/2009 3:06 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9260532

RE: Is there a formula or chart for prop diam/pitch an rpm = HP?
Even Pe's has a fudge factor built in, and if the prop used does not already have a factor noted on the chart you're on your own. Which reminds me... Pe, h How did you come up with the prop factor results? I have a couple of props that are not listed and would like to determine the efficiency factors.
Posted on: 11/17/2009 10:29 AM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259991

RE: Why does it do it?
No worries. If the timing is off, it's prolly not enough to be a big deal and would not cause the sputtering anyway. Later in the troubleshooting process you can pull the carb and check that the reeds are seating correctly. There have been a few reeds from every reed maker that of late have not been seating on one side or the other.
Posted on: 11/17/2009 10:27 AM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259983

RE: Why does it do it?
The black stuff is talking to you. Over and over it's saying it isn't broken in yet. That experienced giant scale guy needs to do a better job of listening. Look for a tiny leak around the base of the carb and the insualtor block, then spray some soapy water in the same area and look again. Worst case is you remove the insulator block and fine sand it flat if there is a leak. Get those put of the way and we'll work another area if the sputtering problem doesn't go away. The black stuff will go away when it completes the break in.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 11:53 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259344

RE: NEW DLE30!
That works really well. Purchase at any drug store.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 7:32 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258707

RE: AEROVATE, AERO, & RCGF
Perhaps a bit too early for after market muffler designs to have been produced yet. need to get a few on the market and some time for design and manufacturing work to be done. Then you have the issue of popularity. If not enough it's hard to motivate an after market manufacturer to invest the time and expense of development.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 7:31 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258700

RE: AEROVATE, AERO, & RCGF
My opinion is the 15 and 20cc gassers will be ideal for those that fly sport and scale in certain size ranges, especially those flying aircraft with high lift wing designs.
Posted on: 11/16/2009 12:54 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9257794

RE: AEROVATE, AERO, & RCGF
[quote]ORIGINAL: Piston Hey All I spent the weekend running the 15cc engine. I am putting the data together today and will post the results ASAP. [b]Hey T.O.M.... when is the last time we paid attention to HP figures for an engine? Unless there is corroborating evidence from a certified dyno[/b].... well you get my drift. I prefer thrust figures myself. I very much do agree with aussiesteve on his assessment of why there is a similarity of weights between the smaller cc engines. To give all a heads up, I will be stating data compiled from the spreadsheet developed by PE Reivers. (thanks PE!!!) Cheers Henry [/quote] Henry, I'm with you all the way where thrust numbers are concerned. The problems arise where manufacturers advertise a Horse Power value. From that point on everyone sees the HP number first and everything else is secondary, if noticed at all. I view published HP values as tricks in advertising. With some specific displacements, I [i]KNOW[/i] what DA and 3w engine outputs are, and when I saw the comments on the 15/20 HP values I instantly knew there was some B.S. eminating from somewhere. The 15/20 outperformed a very strong 28cc single, and was only rougly 3.8 times less powerful than a popular 100cc twin. So doing away with HP values would provide a bit more truth in advertising. BTW, I also use Pe's prop thrust calculator for developing [i]initial performance estimates[/i] but there are a lot of props that do not have factors built into the plots. Typically there is later a substantial correction factor to contend with. So you need to use those values as [i]estimates[/i] only. Pat
Posted on: 11/16/2009 11:13 AM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9257573

RE: DLE-111 rod bearing failure...
The low serial number implys it was of the early group of 111's. The DA people periodically DO jump in with the the "told you so" but they forget that DA had problems in the beginning too. I'm not going to run through all the possible oils that would work well since MOST of them do if used in the correct ratios. 40-1 max for the minerals and 50-1 max for the synthetics keeps everything happy. Wall Mart oil works great at 32-1, but nobody wants to believe that. I run Redline at 50-1 and have for years. Better is Stihl HP Ultra at 50-1. Motul 800 at 50-1. Two oils I avoid. Lawnboy and Amsoil.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 10:26 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256566

RE: AEROVATE, AERO, & RCGF
2.1 hp/1554 watts? I hope those numbers are coming from a 35cc engine. If it's smaller than that I don't buy into the output numbers at all. Expanding on the noted power, it would only need to be less than 4 times larger to equal a DA 100....
Posted on: 11/15/2009 10:19 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256542

RE: NEW DLE30!
I don't doubt the Zenoah numbers, but I haven't seen much accuracy outside of that unless it was tested at an independant lab possessing the right kind of equipment. 4-1/2 HP on a 30cc engine is over a full double of what the strongest normally provide. I can't see an r/c flight enthusiast spending the time, money, and effort trying to achieve that kind of performance, [i]even were it possible[/i]. The cost alone would shut most of them down. I can just see everyone pushing their planes down a 1/2 mile long runway trying to get the speed needed for takeoff using a prop that would permit high hp numbers. But hey, they sure had a lot of rpm, right?
Posted on: 11/15/2009 7:59 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255552

RE: NEW DLE30!
Believe it or not, I have one of the old water jacket assemblies for the G-23 sitting on the shelf at work.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 7:59 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256105

RE: DLE-111 rod bearing failure...
The use Lawnboy is not [i]always [/i]an issue, however, it is prone to sludging up an engine. The stuff promotes fast wear, which is an oxymoron where caring for an engine is concerned. There is nothing in a DL/DLE manual that suggests Lawnboy in any amount. That's a DA thing, but even DA provides another choice for a break in oil. Lawnboy sludges up their engines too. 50-1 with any mineral oil is a very bad idea. Minerals do not have the ability to handle heat like a good synthetic does, nor do they possess the film strength of a good synthetic. The only benefit items with a mineral is that they will burn where a synthetic will not, and at dense ratios will seriously wash down the top of a piston and combustion chamber. The downside is they cook out all the anti wear additives at lower temps than a synthetic will. Look at the side of your piston and the cylinder wall and note all the dark residue that's attached. The Lawnboy at 50-1 may not have caused the bearing failure, but it sure didn't help keep it intact. Depending on the serial number of the engine, it may have been one of the early production run that had a bearing issue corrected in later production runs. Either way it needs to go back to an authorized DLE dealer for repair. If you bought outside an authorized dealer you might anticipate being charged for repair work. In that case you have the option of contacting the manufacturer with your proof of sales to attempt free warranty repair. In that event the cost of shipping both ways will likely be on you. You aloso have the option of buying the parts and installing them yourself.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 7:56 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256099

RE: VT 38 very strong 4 stroke GAS Engine
Some good lessons in energy management in the flight video for the newer modeling generation that only knows how to fly on the prop. Nice video with a plane that is getting close to scale power to weight ratios.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 4:56 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255703

RE: AEROVATE, AERO, & RCGF
If you can find a cheaper 15cc engine, buy it. Then let us all know how it worked out. Buying cheap and buying quality are not synonomous. The best 15cc engine hasn't been made yet. Several manufacturers make engines with more than one name. However, some engine names coming from a single manufacturer have different quality levels. You have to know which ones have the better QA process and make your choice from there. The cheapest one will have lower QA. Ya get what you pay for, and one should be ready to accept lower quality for a lower price. If you're not then you should buy the more expensive engine and avoid issues that can be associated with low price.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 3:32 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255556

RE: NEW DLE30!
Ain't no way in hell they are getting 4.5 hp on a stock exhaust! 4-1/2 hp would be pushing the outer edge of the envelope using a near perfect pipe. Clearly they are using math to compute HP via rpm and there is obviously a VERY large fudge factor built in. If they managed to hit 3 1/2 they would be doing darn good, and even then it would have to be obtained somewhere in the 15-20k rpm range. Not useful for anything practical. Seems about the only people that don't lie or misrepresent HP numbers are those that do not publish any. If they knew what they were talking about they would publish numbers in watts, an accurate standard of measure, not HP.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 1:23 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255346

RE: NEW DLE30!
I used Zenoah to make a note about where the port design was likely copied from. For those the would want to discuss a superier engine in the 24-30cc range, you need to look at the 3w-28i. The port design is almost as good as it gets, and the rear induction works very well. For those worried about that last ounce it's a bit on the heavy side. The price is over the top though. So if you're going to copy general design parameters you might as well copy those from the best. Zenoah or 3w. The problem is the superior designs cost more to produce, which is where the shortcuts come from.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 11:55 AM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9255179

RE: Aerovate Engines
Yep, avoid the Locktite on servo screws and use the silicon. Much easier to get out later and never a stripped screw.
Posted on: 11/14/2009 11:58 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9254493

RE: NEW DLE30!
buy a similar, but inferior, old design under a new name.
Posted on: 11/14/2009 11:39 PM by Author "Tired Old Man" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9254462