RE: E-flite J-3 Cub 25 ARF
Take a look at this [link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=544402&page=58]Cub[/link] thread on RC Groups. I have over 700 flights on my Cub using only HXT900 9g servos throughout. I would strongly reccomend the flap mod and using an inexpensive gyro.
Posted on: 4/21/2010 11:39 AM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9677954

RE: Husky 400 ARF
The 2212/20 is an excellent motor and would be a good choice for the Husky. The 2208/34 is lighter, less powerful and has a lower current draw which allows you to use a smaller battery. If you want it to float in gently with flaps the 2208/34 would be a better choice but the 2212/20 would give you better aerobatic abilities. As it is, without flaps at an altitude of 6500 the 2208/34 with a 9x6sf lifts off at full throttle in six feet.
Posted on: 3/29/2006 8:06 PM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4100182

RE: Husky 400 ARF
Here are the photos of the motor mount and landing gear mod along with a photo of the Husky with the FMA Co-Pilot. Initially when I had the Park 480 and 2100mAh battery the Husky was impossible for me to fly without the Co-Pilot. As the weight dropped to below 21oz it was no longer necessary. The radial-stick mount is attached to the firewall with two 4-40 bolts with blind nuts from the back. The additional 1/16 mounting plate off the front was not needed for the Park 400 or 480 and may not be necessary for the Hacker A20-26M. It does however give a lot of flexibility for using different motors and playing with the thrust line of the motor. The 2-56 bolts at 12 and 6 screw into blind nuts on the front plate with carbon spacers. The bolts at 3 and 9 are nylon 4-40 threaded into the front plate to save weight. The landing gear mod is 1.5mm music wire following the same profile as the primary LG but soldered at the axle and secured with very thin aluminum straps to the bottom of the fuse with #2x3/8 sheet metal screws. The bottom of the fuse is reinforced with a 1/2inch wide 1/16 lite ply laminated with a 1/2inch strip of carbon.
Posted on: 3/29/2006 1:30 PM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4098703

RE: Husky 400 ARF
I used a modified Steven's Aero A30-A20 radial stick mount. The stick is supposed to be 10mm x 10mm but mine was 8.5 x 9 so I added a light ply back plate which I bolted to the firewall with two 4-40 bolts. I also reinforced the stick by adding a small doubler on the firewall and first bulkhead because the cut out was for a 10x10 square and the stick was held in by random blobs of glue. I have since mounted five different motors by using different 1/16!QUOT! ply adapters. If somebody would send me a PM of how to post photos I will post photos of the motor mount and landing gear mod. The 2mm landing gear wire is not adequate when the plane gets up to 26+ oz. You should be OK if you can keep it under 20oz but the 1.5mm music wire stays added very little weight and have survived some horrendous landings.
Posted on: 3/28/2006 11:45 PM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4096764

RE: Husky 400 ARF
That is a good idea. The Park 450 will work but you will have to shift all the components as far back as possible and add another 2 to 3 degrees of down-thrust to the motor. My experience with the Husky is that with motors over 56g the nose drops as soon as you take off power regardless of trim or balancing, indicating that it is flying on the prop rather than the wing. With the AXI2208/34 and the specified balance point and throws it is a pleasure to fly which leads me to believe that this configuration replicates the design parameters. The Hacker 20-26M is actually lighter and puts out significantly more power. It should fly hands off at about 50% power giving flight times of about 12 to 15 minutes on a 1320mAh.
Posted on: 3/28/2006 8:20 PM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4095608

RE: Husky 400 ARF
Don't make the mistake of trying to over power this little plane. It already has a high wing loading due to it's true 1:11 scale appearance. I made the mistake of starting off with a Park 480 and 2100mAh battery. It flew horribly at close to 16oz/sq.ft. I have since tried a number of different motor/esc/battery combinations and the clear winner is the AXI 2208/34 with a Jeti 8A ESC and 3S 810mAh Thunderpower battery. AUW now is 20oz which gives 13oz/sq.ft and 110W/lb. The plane flies beautifully on a 9x3.8 and can be flown agressively on a 9x6sf. The flaps are super functional and landings on snow (with skis) are a pleasure. I have a Hacker 20-26M, Thunderpower 1350mAh and Phoenix 25 on order for another plane but I will try them in the Husky first. I think this could well give the longer flying time I want along with phenomenal performance. Even with the AXI it does commendable aerobatics. Whatever you do don't go over 14oz/sq.ft..
Posted on: 3/27/2006 8:07 PM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4090853

RE: OS 46 AX Idle Issues
Thank you. What prop would you recommend to slow the plane down at high rpm? What is more important diameter or pitch? I ran the engine in with a 10x6 and was planning on flying with a 11x6, 11x7, 11x8.
Posted on: 6/7/2005 12:10 AM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3048256

OS 46 AX Idle Issues
I have run the engine in as recommended by David Gierke in his article in Model Airplane News and have used almost a quart of fuel. The engine starts easily and idles reliably in the hanger but cuts as soon as you bring the throttle back to idle at the end of a 100ft takeoff run, during ground handling trials on a new plane. With the glow starter connected it idles perfectly. Given that I am flying at 7000ft would it help to switch to a hotter plug (currently using an OS #3), higher nitromethane (currently using 10% TowerPower). During ground handling I leaned it as far as it would go before the rpm dropped to try and keep it hot. Advice please.
Posted on: 6/5/2005 11:22 PM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3045772

RE: [b]Flight Report!!![/b]
I am about to order everything I need to build the GP Extra 300 .60 kit and would appreciate it if those of you with way more experience than myself have a look at the list and make sure I have everything covered. I plan to increase the elevator and rudder by an inch as discussed in this forum along with reinforcing the landing gears. I am still a little confused as to what I order to join the elevator control rods. My searches on 1/8� wire joiner have been unsuccessful. [u]Kit[/u] GP Extra 300 .60 [u]Kit Extras[/u] GP 14oz fuel tank, 2 3/4 “ main wheels, 1� tail wheel, wheel collars, GP Easy Fueler, Sullivan Tail wheel Bracket 5-12lbs. [u]Engine[/u] Satio FA 100, SlimLine Inverted Pitts (SLI4019), OS Type F Plug, APC 14x8 & 15x6, Tru Turn 8x1.25 Double Jam Adaptor, Tru Turn 2-1/2� Standard 120 2-Blade [u]Servos[/u] Futaba S9001x4 (elevator, rudder and ailerons), S3004x1 (throttle), 12� Servo Extensionx2, Switch/Charge Jack, 6 Volt battery, Receiver Thanks John jtucker@tlink.com
Posted on: 11/19/2004 11:51 PM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2360015

RE: GreatPlanes PT-40 construction diary. Any tips/comments welcome!
I have been working on the same problem for the last five hours. I resolved it by mounting the remote needle valve behind the firewall (in the fuel tank compartment). About 7mm of the needle protrudes out of the left fuse side, in line with the refueling valve. It looks good but took some precision wood routing. Hopefully the extra 40mm of fuel piping between the needle valve and carb isn't a problem.
Posted on: 10/3/2004 1:38 AM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2221635

RE: PT40 Tail-dragger & OS 46 AX issues
The only place I can mount the remote needle is behind the firewall which would involve extending the tubing by 1.5", do you see any problems with this? I am considering using four 10-32 nylon wing bolts threaded into hardwood to secure the landing gear in the hopes of shearing the bolts rather than destroying the fuse in a bad landing. Is this wise or should I stick with four 4-40 steel bolts into blind nuts? Thanks
Posted on: 9/28/2004 11:54 AM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Great Planes, TopFlite, Duraplane, US Aircore"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2209282

RE: Castor oil - A final word?
Is Mineral Oil the same as Castor oil? I only need to add a little to my 18% Castor fuel to run in a new engine. I can buy a pint from the Walmart pharmacy for less than a buck.
Posted on: 9/27/2004 12:55 PM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2206367

PT40 Tail-dragger & OS 46 AX issues
While building my PT40 MkII, I am making provision to convert it to a tail-dragger in the future. The new Du-Bro “Super Strength� injection molded landing gear will provide a similar stance to the existing main gear. I understand that the center of the landing gear should be just forward of the LE. Should I use two 8-32 bolts with blind nuts forward of F2 or four 4-40 bolts straddling F2? Will strips of 3/8�x1/4� ply on the port and starboard side of both the battery bay and just behind F2 be adequate to carry the load? I am using an O.S. 46AX but have run into a problem where the nose gear arm fouls the remote needle assembly. Can the remote needle be moved to the starboard side with a longer piece of fuel hose or is this a “tuned� length of hose? Thanks
Posted on: 9/27/2004 1:01 AM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Great Planes, TopFlite, Duraplane, US Aircore"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2205348

RE: Plane Stands
I used hot glue (craft glue from a gun) rather than the PVC glue to assemble my stand. It has proven to be sturdy and easy to modify simply by heating the joint and pulling it apart.
Posted on: 9/26/2004 9:04 AM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2203417

RE: GreatPlanes PT-40 construction diary. Any tips/comments welcome!
I notice you are going with the standard single aileron servo. I am about to start building the kit and am considering a dedicated servo for each aileron to mix in flaperons. How effective would flaperons be on this kit? Is it worth the effort? Any advice on the mod would be appreciated.
Posted on: 9/24/2004 1:42 PM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2199595

RE: Flaperons??
Would it be inappropriate to try flaperons on a PT-40 MK11 trainer?
Posted on: 1/13/2004 8:09 AM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1426126

PT-40 MK11 Ailerons
I'm about to start building the PT-40 and was considering using dual aileron servos so that I could incorporate flaperons. Is there any reason why this isn't feasible or is just a bad idea.
Posted on: 1/13/2004 7:43 AM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Great Planes, TopFlite, Duraplane, US Aircore"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1426087

RE: OS AX-GMS-Magnum-Tower
I'm about to order an OS-46AX with a 11 x 6 prop for a Great Planes PT-40 MK II Trainer. I would appreciate any input on prop choice and what % nitro to use given that I live at 7000ft. Is there a given protocol for running the engine in? Should you use different fuel for running in? The OS FAQ assumes you already know what you are doing.
Posted on: 1/7/2004 3:35 PM by Author "Tribum" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1409690