RE: Looking for a 3D plane
[quote]ORIGINAL: buildflycrash A mojo fuse can be REALLY EASLY modified to a scale looking plane. Then put on a scale covering job. Makes the warbird guys crazy! [/quote] AHHAHAHAHA
Posted on: 2/14/2007 3:46 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5418813

RE: Looking for a 3D plane
You'll have a hard time finding a 40 size "scale" 3d plane that has enough power with a 46fx. Ya - profiles don't look all that great but they have it where it counts....
Posted on: 2/14/2007 12:34 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5416398

RE: Confused with Accu-Cycler Elite
I think the high capacity JR rx packs are larger than AA cells - subC nicd and nimh maybe? Anyway, the accucyle will give you a reasonable estimate of a charge rate when you enter the capacity in mah and number of cells. It'll probably be something like a 3 or 4 hour charge time. For a "standard" overnight charge, use 165 and 270 ma or whatever is closest and it'll take 12-14 hours or so. For a fast charge of about an hour you can use 1650 and 2700 ma (1.65A or 2.70A). Those JR cells will probably handle a higher charge rate as well - I've used a 30 minute charge rate on lesser AA size cells and in your case that would be 3.3A and 5.4A but the accucyle elite maxes out at 2 amps. The faster charge rates are nice in a pinch at the field but for best longevity of the packs, the slower rates are better. A good way to tell when a battery is fully charged is when it starts to warm up. If it warms up too fast before it's really full or starts to get hot is when you know you're pushing too much current into the packs... just lower the rate. Monitor it the first couple times but since you only have 2 amps as a max, you'll probably not push those bigger packs too hard.
Posted on: 2/11/2007 8:12 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5404843

RE: please explain how lipo's get charged?
so it does put in nearly the full 10,000? Is that right 10,000? thats big. Anyway, when you get to the max voltage while charging lipos (in this case 8.4V) you're usually around 90% full. So if you hit cutoff (about 6v) and only put in 4000 before you get to 8.4 you either have a weak pack or one that isn't labeled with true capacity. If you fully charge and then discharge on the ice - how much do you get out of it before it hits 6.0v?
Posted on: 2/6/2007 11:00 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5378855

RE: a classic end... video
Ya, crash some more planes and show us more! :)
Posted on: 2/5/2007 4:51 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5375261

RE: Linkages, Horns, EZ-connectors, Z-bends Etc.
[quote]ORIGINAL: k3 valley flyer I have used EZ connectors at servo horn for over 20 years on some 50 planes, up to 150 glow sized planes, but most were 40 to 60 glow at 6 to 8 lbs. Have never had one fail. I use the metal clip not the plastic ones, and leave about 1/2 inch of the wire pushrod sticking past the set screw. Tighten the set screw as tight as possible, rods are piano wire in plastic tubes. Again no problems. Just my experience not an endorsement or recomendation. [/quote] I like the EZ connectors also but I once tried for 45 minutes to get that #(*@&$*(@#$ metal clip on and just couldn't do it! What's the secret???
Posted on: 2/5/2007 4:49 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5375249

RE: What Do You Want From E-flite?
Hey, as long as you're buying - I'll take a Showtime 4D and Saito 125 with some fast digital servos.. Thanks! :) If I only had a club field, I would consider this. Alas, its gone so parkflyers for me for now...
Posted on: 2/5/2007 4:42 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5375217

RE: Hobby People & the "Future of R/C"
[quote]ORIGINAL: digital_trucker I've seen some pretty scary hunks of wood and metal flopping around in the sky... [/quote] ditto
Posted on: 1/30/2007 6:49 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5347319

RE: are spinners needed?
[quote]ORIGINAL: uliner The plastic ones can save a crankshaft in a hard crash..... Yes I have expreimental data t osuppor this...... [/quote] hahah - that made me laugh!
Posted on: 1/30/2007 6:11 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum ""1/2 A" & "1/8 A" airplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5347156

RE: best battery to use on gws mustang
For a long time it seemed that the Himax 2025 motor was the hot setup - 4200kv version most typical. Then the outrunners came - I like the axi 2212/20 and hacker a20 - Hacker comes with all the mounting options and prop adapters so is a better deal now, I think. These motors are in the 60ish dollar range, add 15 maybe for the himax with a gearbox that may not be so good. If you want to go cheap, I keep hearing about this place selling super cheap products.. I can't vouch for them but have seen people talking enough to say at least take a look. http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2048
Posted on: 1/29/2007 2:13 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5339294

RE: What is the point of giant elecrtrics?
I think its just some people like the challenge and don't mind the cost (so much). I feel the same way about 40 year old muscle cars that cost a few grand but people spend 50 grand to restore and modernize when a new vette has so much more.. oh well.
Posted on: 1/27/2007 8:45 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5330044

RE: ARF Trainer
I've seen a couple guys in the club who were out of practice a bit rave about the World Models Sky Raiders - there's a high and low wing one. They're really cheap, like 70 bucks, and fly well. I agree that you need to keep flying and not let a couple mishaps discourage you. I started in the 80s and let some crashes get to me and didn't get back to try again until 2000. Now I lament the time I lost without airplanes!
Posted on: 1/27/2007 8:41 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5330033

RE: Axi or Hacker?
I stand by my :) ya I know....
Posted on: 1/26/2007 1:20 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5324945

RE: Axi or Hacker?
I have multiples of all 3 and stand by my poll selection. :)
Posted on: 1/26/2007 12:51 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5324876

RE: Does this motor/speed control/batt combination sound right?
That will work but is a load of power for that plane... If you're used to fast powerful planes though it should be real fun. Only thing is at that weight it won't come in for the floaty landing. I used a smaller axi motor on mine and going from a 1320 3s pack to a 2100 really made a difference in the lower speed stuff. normal sport flying was great and it probably handled the wind better too.
Posted on: 1/25/2007 1:22 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5321376

RE: Is it enough for my lipo?
What capacity battery are you considering? All the worry about the battery might be better directed at that motor. With the 3700kv model you really aren't going to be able to be past 10 amps ever. Well, I guess you could prop there but you're not going to be able to run it continuously there for long without overheating. I have both of the higher kv eflite 370 motors (4200 and 5100 or whatever the #s are) and while they're pretty good, they can't run at 10amps+ for but a few seconds before getting hot and your lower kv motors handles less amps. So, the ESC is probably overkill.. I use 10 amp controllers. A decent 10-12C 1320 3s pack should probably be fine. I've used 10C 900 packs for awhile (also 1320s) although I do think I pushed those a bit but they were earlier technology packs from a couple years ago. You would only need the 15C kinda pack if you really wanted to go small like 700mah range. Do you know what gearing you'll be using on this motor? That will affect how much amps you draw from the battery with your 11x4.7 prop. I'm guessing 6.6:1 or the GWS D equivalent would be good, maybe a little lower ratio would be acceptable but I'm not sure.
Posted on: 1/25/2007 9:18 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "E-Flight Power Sources"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5320489

RE: Axi or Hacker?
They're probably pretty close on efficiency but I've read a number of opinions stating that the Hacker can handle a bit more watts. I really like my axi but I now have 3 hackers because they give you all the extras like mounts and prop adapters for the same price.
Posted on: 1/23/2007 7:15 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5312503

RE: WHAT MOTOR SYSTEM FOR NEW ELECTRIC KIT?
16 gauge wire is bigger than 20 gauge wire so you're fine there. that amount of amps possible out of a battery has nothing to do with what the motor will take... when setup properly, your motor would only draw the something-teen amps even if hooked up to a 12 volt truck battery, for example. I like the following shops in general - they've all given good service and no problems and will ahve anyhting else you need I'm sure: allerc.com toddsmodels.com espritmodels.com atlantahobby.com
Posted on: 1/22/2007 10:39 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5308508

RE: Aiptek Mini PenCam
I may stand corrected. I think I saw a thread on rcgroups about some software someone wrote to better interface with the aiptek cams but maybe its only for specific models??? If I find it again I'll try to post a link unless someone else finds it.
Posted on: 1/22/2007 10:56 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Aerial Photography and Video"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5304834

RE: WHAT MOTOR SYSTEM FOR NEW ELECTRIC KIT?
Hey no problem man.. for some reason I feel that I'm on a mission in this thread! I remember all the frustration I had and the months of research I did on things and bad purchases when I started.. I really want to pass that along to someone so karma will make me win the lottery... hahah :) If you don't watch My name is Earl... find the COPS episode online and try not to laugh!
Posted on: 1/21/2007 1:49 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5299968

RE: WHAT MOTOR SYSTEM FOR NEW ELECTRIC KIT?
That's a 7.4V nominal (8.4 full charge) pack with 2 cells versus an 11.1V nominal (12.6v full charge) 3 cell pack.. with electrics think of volts as rpm so the 2 cell pack would spin the prop much slower and give you something like 50% less power. With batteries it is kinda you get what you pay for... I've tried a few cheap brands and a few name brand and had some problems with all over the last few years but generally the name brand like tanic and thunder power have been good and held up to the specs they advertise while the cheaper knockoffs have been less able to keep up with their specs and just died quickly (less than 1 season and they're pretty much done maybe 25 flights!) If you look for apex 2100 3s packs the mk3 versions - they're supposedly nearly a thunderpower prolite packs in performance - alittle heavier though... and at toddsmodels.com they're like 35 bucks each! I tried a few mk2 apex packs and they weren't quite able to put out the power of tp.. maybe 80% or less but still ok. Problem was two of them died since earlier in spring 2006 when I took a 6 month rc hiatus. That made me wonder if the cheapness was worth it... Maybe try one apex mk3 2100 and one tp 2100 and see for yourself..
Posted on: 1/21/2007 1:47 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5299959

RE: NI-Cd and Ni-MH discharge amounts
I think geist has a good point.. I have heard of the problems he was describing but I'm not 100% on the technical details. I think it comes down to sticking with quality packs made specifically for the load you intend to put on them. Try talking to a place that makes up packs like cheapbatterypacks.com or a large scale place like Don's hobbies...
Posted on: 1/21/2007 2:21 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5298279

RE: WHAT MOTOR SYSTEM FOR NEW ELECTRIC KIT?
and the motor specs saying 12v instead of 12.6 is just an oversight... they meant 3 cell lipo packs.
Posted on: 1/21/2007 2:15 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5298266

RE: WHAT MOTOR SYSTEM FOR NEW ELECTRIC KIT?
hope battery stuff wasnt too contradictory.. I just know tp and tanic packs a little better and never have seen that pack... some manufacturers inflate their ratings more than others so I just meant to be wary - the max capability - if used a lot - will really shorten a battery's lifespan.
Posted on: 1/21/2007 2:14 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5298261

RE: WHAT MOTOR SYSTEM FOR NEW ELECTRIC KIT?
well tiger, just you and me! :) I think the speed 400 recomendation is just old school thinking. really, 30 oz is a lot for a speed 400 class brushed motor as they describe. The 450 brushless outrunner is right in the recommended range of weight with your plane. thats the 450 I had in mind... I think only eflite names one of their motors 450.. I think all is good except that the battery (while claiming to pump out a lot) could really be pushed... these lipo makers are usually really genereous with their ratings... something in the 1500-1800 ish range would probably be better and still not be very heavy although that big wing would handle a 6 ounce 2100 no problem especially since the nickel packs used with speed 400s over the years are even heavier. looking at the specs.. thats a pretty heavy 1200 - it probably could pump out the juice they claim but a thunder power prolite 3s 2100 is only 5 ounces and can put out 35+ amps (for future projects) and fly nearly twice as long... its a little overkill as far as amp output capability but its nice for duration. a 1320 thunder power prolite is an ounce lighter than the pack you mention and is good for both motors you have. If you want completely soldered packs, try tanicpacks.com.. I just got a couple packs made with connectors all done to my specs.. very nice work.
Posted on: 1/21/2007 2:09 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5298253

RE: HOW DO YOU SOLDER ESC WIRES??
I thought back a bit a remembered a speed 400 pusher jet I had... different type of plane but same weight and geared the same as they recommend on your plane. with an 8 cell nicd pack (heavy) it would fly yes but you had to be at 3/4 throttle plus to be barely above stall speed. full throttle couldnt be used continuously even when I added a heatsink to the motor.. just got too hot. That weight is just asking a lot of a speed 400. Climb angle was like 15 degrees full throttle. in my mind a lumbering turd! In your case the park400 is more efficient but that mild wind thing might make the power marginal. If you're used to that though it could be fine. I have a couple smaller glider types with a similar wing that I used speed 300 motors on and while performance was kinda weak it flew fine on the wing... maybe I'm spoiled by outrageous 3d planes I fly now I dunno.. I hope all this helps.
Posted on: 1/20/2007 4:10 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5295720

RE: HOW DO YOU SOLDER ESC WIRES??
hmmm, well I am now more leaning toward the plane being a bit lighter than they say when you use a lighter lipo battery and other equipment you have. If big power is not a concern then maybe you should try what you have and then get a slightly larger and more modern battery in addition in case the one you have doesn't last too long - maybe it will - depends on final weight and flying style. maybe a 1500-1800 would help flight times without adding too much weight for the motor. Your motor is a "mild" wind also, meaning that the way its made makes it spin slower per volt of input than most. This lets you use bigger props but you get less overall power. Maybe this will affect you too... man, sorry if this is confusing, there's a lot to it tho! but if you go 450 which should be plenty but not outrageous, that battery you have may be stressed. I guess depends on what you want to exchange. If you hate soldering, tanicpacks.com will solder on the discharge and balnce plugs of your choice. I solder a lot for this hobby but got lazy recently and some old tanic pack I bought years ago still held up better than all the others so I went with them for a few new packs. Very nice work and worth a few bucks for them to do everything.
Posted on: 1/20/2007 3:57 PM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5295664

RE: HOW DO YOU SOLDER ESC WIRES??
ok, I looked closer and they do use that: Charge Protection Circuitry: Yes so if you change to deans you'll need to solder two on that pack, one for charge plug and one for discharge.. then the matching opposite deans on the esc and the leads coming from your charger.. wow a lot of soldering im afraid if you do change over.
Posted on: 1/20/2007 4:24 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5293663

RE: HOW DO YOU SOLDER ESC WIRES??
oh and some companies used the balance plug to charge (the white plug on battery) with their own brand balancer. You can charge through the main plug on any battery, the balancing thing is a little safer and better for the battery in the long run but you need their balancer or charger in some cases and its not absolutely necessary. also im not sure about this pack but some batteries awhile back had a special regulator thingy built in on the charge lead that wouldn't let you overcharge the pack since that could potentially cause a fire. Maybe this is what this pack has since they both seem to be jst connectors in that official pic you posted although your pack pic looked different. in any case you can charge through the discharge lead you normally plug into the esc just fine. Finally I just noticed the projected weight of this model - 30oz. I think it'll fly ok in a scale-like way with your motor and 3cell pack, it just won't have that power all the people talk about when they first go brushless. A park 450 motor (slightly bigger) and the latest 1500-2100 mah 3 cell pack would have great power, for example. Not to get you discouraged, I just think it'll be a little underpowered. but maybe that weight estimate was because of the heavy speed 400 and heavy nicd/nimh batteries that it might have been designed around... if so then the weight savings you'll have will bring things more in line with how it should be powered. Keep us posted.
Posted on: 1/20/2007 4:16 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5293646

RE: HOW DO YOU SOLDER ESC WIRES??
good thing I have insomnia tonite... :) tiger, its not so much that the battery can't put out more than 7 amps, its just that awhile back that JST connector became a standard for some smaller batteries because they were already used with some older technology motors so consumers wouldn't have to solder. its just the connector that sucks... although that eflite battery is kinda 2003 technology. Current battery packs of similar size from Thunder Power and others support 15 amps or better and I think you'll find that you're lucky to get 7 or 8 amps out of that older eflite pack for a minute or two. It'll still work just not have all the power at the end as it did at the start - you'll see. Actually I'm surprised its still for sale - maybe it was sitting on a shelf somewhere for a couple years?? I dunno... I hope it was cheap! The switch you speak of also is a remnant from days past. A few ESCs still have an arming switch but most ESCs require you to go to fully off or lowest throttle to arm the system and wont start full throttle if you accidentally leave the transmitter stick at that position. there's no real need for a switch since you should only plug in right before flight and unplug when you're done anyway. stick with lipo if you can - nicd and nimh are so last century and relatively heavy! a 7 cell would be kinda limp compared to a decent 3cell lipo because of the much lower voltage (voltage = rpm in motors) The old equivalent was 10 cells= a 3 cell lipo and 7-8 cells = a 2 cell lipo. and yes those are deans ultra. I use deans micro for up to about 12 amps and ultra for 35+ (my biggest motors) but it can take more. The ultra are just a little overkill in this application but the weight penalty isnt anything to be concerned about, I just like the smaller ones on smaller setups because they're easier to pull apart is all.
Posted on: 1/20/2007 4:01 AM by Author "Trogdor the Burninator" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5293643