RE: messa 109 squadron
Dang, has this thread died?
Posted on: 9/24/2011 1:21 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10732152

RE: building micro foamies
If all worked properly, a picture very much like one of my own projects should show. The picture is of an EPP Flirt, where as mine was named Arupy. Not many differences between the two, but this is a test to see if I can post a picture. Now I will see if I can post the Arupy, which will be orange in color. From what I can see the first posting of pictures was successful. I edited the same post three times, so I think I can safely say I know how to post pictures. Now to build a few in the micro foamies size. The Arupy probably is too big to qualify since it was 20 inches across.
Posted on: 8/2/2011 8:23 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10652462

RE: gravity cox
Thanks for the reply. I was thinking everyone had lost interest in the topic. I have purchased a few of these kits, so I will have to go ahead and try and RC a few of them. Until next time.
Posted on: 8/1/2011 4:57 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10650129

RE: Here's A Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! (Part 2)
Yes, it is good to get back to the original subject of the thread from time to time. I suppose that means one of these days I will need to build one and post a picture or two. Man am I getting behind on the build list! Just too many projects and not enough energy. This heat isn't helping either.
Posted on: 7/9/2011 8:37 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10613327

RE: Here's A Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! (Part 2)
[quote]ORIGINAL: BJ64 [quote]ORIGINAL: javabased "... praise ..., since the labels ... perfectly aligned. Everyone thought I did it on purpose and said it showed attention to detail." [/quote] "your LiPo had more electrons on one side " BJ:) [/quote] Now those are worth repeating! You just know those sneaky electrons can do a job on the balance of a LiPo and unaligned labels are deadly. LOL! Got to love inspiration and the observations of experts, or novices. For some reason the above really tickled my funny bone today. Thanks, I needed that. On a side note - working on Arupy No.#2 since No.#1 (recycled Nutball into Snowball with 20% of front chopped off) is a bear to fly. Three times I took the freshly repaired Arupy out for a test fly and three times it crashed soon after take off. It might have been a too strong puff of wind, but it could be my slow reaction time. This design seems to need more trim work and a slower take off speed. The stronger (higher KV) motor is proving a bit much to handle even with a 2s battery pack and has made this flyer a speed demon. A 3s battery pack would be a bear to manage on this bird. The repairs have been limited to the flimsy ground gear I glued up from 3mm sheets of EPP foam since I didn't have any thicker. I am starting to think I should have sandwiched some thin plywood in the center of the layers of EPP to make the skids tuffer to break. I may have to give it up and buy some 9mm sheets and make some Fat Bob floats with some sort of stiffener between a few layers. I may even add wheels on No.#2 to make the rotation during take off a bit easier. The Zip tie on the bottom of the skids don't show any wear yet, but I really need something slicker and as tuff. I could be trying to make a tuff as nails foam plane that is light enough for a 2 or 3 s battery pack and protects the propeller; the Holy Grail of cheap and easy RC park flyers. May be a mission impossible with this design, but I just cannot let go of the idea just yet.
Posted on: 5/6/2011 11:25 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10505089

RE: Here's A Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! (Part 2)
The gnet link is broken, so I still have no idea what this "first foam build" looks like.
Posted on: 4/27/2011 8:45 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10488997

RE: Here's A Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! (Part 2)
I am wondering if anyone else is mixing various designs together for the possible advantages?
Posted on: 4/27/2011 8:37 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10488984

RE: Here's A Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! (Part 2)
Not sure the type of model, but it sounds like one you have grown to like a lot. I recently modified a Nutball into a Arup like design with a very large step from the now straight and shaped leading edge. I had cut away the front part of the circle due to too many nose impacts, which removed the foam forward of the kit reinforcement carbon fiber strip. I also cut a bit further back to remove the bamboo skewer stick I had installed to reinforce the broken 1mmx3mm flat carbon fiber strip. The Blue Wonder (BW) motor I had been using (1300 kV) didn't seem to have enough "umph" on a 2 cell LiPo battery pack after the modifications that included a short nosed fuselage to stuff the battery, ESC, and Rx into. Since I don't yet have any 3S, 1000 mAh (1 Ah) battery packs, I dug around in my motor collection and found a motor rated for 2s or 3s packs, 1500 kV and was only 6-8 grams heavier. The extra 200 kV was enough to handle the extra weight on the same 8x6 propeller, but ... I had some serious trim issues to work out. The hard landing proved the foam skid/float style landing gear of the Snowball design didn't survive well and I am repairing (glue) the parts and going to add another 3mm EPP skin to each side to fatten and strengthen. What can I say, I have grown to enjoy flying the Nutball design, but want the advantages of the Snowball skids/floats, and the straight front leading edge (LE) of the Arup. I am betting I can trim this mixed up design to fly well and am calling it an Arupy. If it does trim out better, I will build a larger one (24" circle, instead of 20" of the kit) and may go bigger if the other motors I have can handle the extra weight. I do want to keep the construction simple as the original Nutball, but I also want to make a "build up wing" in the bigger size because I think this would help keep the larger model light weight. EPP foam is heavy for a foam, but it has great bounce with little or no damage most of the time. Of course a high speed nose in will still be a bit of a disaster most of the time, but repairs are often still possible. I have learned the glue used for repairs can add too many grams for the motor over time and epoxy is one of the worse.
Posted on: 4/27/2011 8:31 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10488975

RE: Bash your planes for little or no money
LOL, it would be something special if a person could skip on the purchase of food for more RC stuff, but reality seems to dictate otherwise. The best one can do is start out with an affordable RC system, build with MBFB in mind (most bang for buck), and purchase more materials or supplies when possible. Of course that often means collecting materials from as free a resource as one has available and learning enough about scratch building on the cheap. Unfortunely that often means a lot of internet time, and a personal connection does cost money for just about any speed. The only other choices I know of involve public libraries (with limited time) or a friends connection, but that too is often for a limited time. At the moment I am recycling my Nutball, purchased as an EPP kit, and it will soon be a mix of Snowball and Arup (1930s) design. Currently installing the electronics, which means I should be able to maiden the new, bashed craft in another day or two, weather permitting. I am thinking of calling it an Arupy, but starting the name with an "A" might seem a tad odd. I do want to suggest were the design came from, more or less, and give credit for the principle concept. I would tend to think others from this thread have and are doing the same sort of things to save a few coins for future needs and recycling planes and parts when possible. Sure seems like a good idea to me anyway. If one isn't concerned over cost of the hobby and is more focused on flying as many models as possible, as soon as possible, I would suspect the pilot to purchase craft that are pre-built and fly the bigger "gasers". I started out with the standard trainer many moons ago, got out of the hobby for an extended period, and then decided to go again. For me it made more sense to go electric, foam, light weight, and park flyer size for the convenience. This has been a good decision for a number of reasons, one of which has to do with the choice of flying sites are many, rather than few as is the normal case with the larger gaser models. I don't need a large site, paved runway, or other expensive and limited access requirements to launch a park flyer and fly as long as I can stand it. If the park flyer happens to take a tumble, repairs are much easier on the coin bank, and often of no consequence if I want to pick up the model, brush off the dust, or grass clippings, and go again. The newer EPO and EPP foam options have proven the better investment and more crash resistant that I first thought possible. The fact the Nutball kit was made of EPP foam has a lot to do with my option to recycle the craft, even if the changes were more than most would bother with. This new "Arupy" should fly just fine, but if it don't, I can scratch out a new version for less than $20 with new EPP foam. Something most of us would give a great deal of thought about if we are restricted by our collection of coins.
Posted on: 4/24/2011 1:02 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10481499

RE: Bash your planes for little or no money
LOL, it would be something special if a person could skip on the purchase of food for more RC stuff, but reality seems to dictate otherwise. The best one can do is start out with an affordable RC system, build with MBFB in mind (most bang for buck), and purchase more materials or supplies when possible. Of course that often means collecting materials from as free a resource as one has available and learning enough about scratch building on the cheap. Unfortunely that often means a lot of internet time, and a personal connection does cost money for just about any speed. The only other choices I know of involve public libraries (with limited time) or a friends connection, but that too is often for a limited time. At the moment I am recycling my Nutball, purchased as an EPP kit, and it will soon be a mix of Snowball and Arup (1930s) design. Currently installing the electronics, which means I should be able to maiden the new, bashed craft in another day or two, weather permitting. I am thinking of calling it an Arupy, but starting the name with an "A" might seem a tad odd. I do want to suggest were the design came from, more or less, and give credit for the principle concept. I would tend to think others from this thread have and are doing the same sort of things to save a few coins for future needs and recycling planes and parts when possible. Sure seems like a good idea to me anyway. If one isn't concerned over cost of the hobby and is more focused on flying as many models as possible, as soon as possible, I would suspect the pilot to purchase craft that are pre-built and fly the bigger "gasers". I started out with the standard trainer many moons ago, got out of the hobby for an extended period, and then decided to go again. For me it made more sense to go electric, foam, light weight, and park flyer size for the convenience. This has been a good decision for a number of reasons, one of which has to do with the choice of flying sites are many, rather than few as is the normal case with the larger gaser models. I don't need a large site, paved runway, or other expensive and limited access requirements to launch a park flyer and fly as long as I can stand it. If the park flyer happens to take a tumble, repairs are much easier on the coin bank, and often of no consequence if I want to pick up the model, brush off the dust, or grass clippings, and go again. The newer EPO and EPP foam options have proven the better investment and more crash resistant that I first thought possible. The fact the Nutball kit was made of EPP foam has a lot to do with my option to recycle the craft, even if the changes were more than most would bother with. This new "Arupy" should fly just fine, but if it don't, I can scratch out a new version for less than $20 with new EPP foam. Something most of us would give a great deal of thought about if we are restricted by our collection of coins.
Posted on: 4/24/2011 12:58 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10481497

RE: building micro foamies
Nice work. I must learn how to post pictures of some of my projects. Maybe someone will want to do more of the same.
Posted on: 4/16/2011 6:00 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10465811

RE: building micro foamies
Found a number of resources for the micro receivers, mostly the Parkzone type. A number of hobby stores carry the Rx, but the price each is over $50, which makes the adventure a bit more expensive than I had hoped. Did build an Aerobat, but had a bit of trouble with the glide test. Seems the jig provided doesn't ensure one wing won't be perfect to the other. Getting the CG just right is a tad tricky due to the fact the battery placement is so critical on the Velco. Since parts aren't the issue with so many sources available, learning how to build super light is the challenge since glue can add too much weight to the finished micro model airplane. Another detail is the type of foam you buy and build with. The EPP foam can take a few hard landings without damage, but it is a heavy foam compared to other options that damage easier.
Posted on: 4/11/2011 6:26 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10455814

RE: Micro DH2
I wouldn't say the micro DH2 or other micro planes flies as slow as an Ember since the Ember's so light. It would be hard to have something fly like an Ember unless it was the same weight, or you had more than enough motor to fly with a very high alpha. The micro DH2 and other low weight micro planes do fly slow if one can manage the throttle properly. Many new flyers forget to throttle down after take off and seem to think their little micro plane needs full throttle for take off. Many micro planes will take off with a bit more than half throttle and will fly with less throttle to extend the flight time. Even the bigger RC model planes can fly a lot longer if the throttle is managed closer to half throttle, or a setting that allows slow flight without loosing altitude. Flying slow is a good habit to get into if you would rather fly a bit longer than change the battery often and it helps an RC pilot learn a few things about balance. A well trimmed and balanced model airplane flies better than most believe is possible with a "toy" and it will land itself with very minor adjustments with the controls to maintain alignment to the runway.
Posted on: 4/10/2011 8:16 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10454221

RE: Bash your planes for little or no money
Soda plastic bottles are used by many who like to scratch build for many things from canopy to skid. It is true the standard soda bottle does shrink a bit as it is heated, but this must be done in a controlled manner or the plastic will begin to burn and produce toxic fumes. The trick is to find the perfect temperature for the too hot to touch plastic for the desired method to produce the wanted part. I don't think I would attempt to melt the plastic to make a skin for a RC model made of foam since the foam is very sensitive to heat. Many types of glue are also sensitive to heat and that is why it often is a bad idea to use heat gun glue on a black or other dark colored foam. The glue will get soft and let go while transporting the foam model while it is setting in the hot car, truck, or other vehicle that can heat up like a greenhouse without ventilation. If one is going to make a canopy from a plastic bottle, it is best to find a bottle that already has the basic shape wanted so very little work is needed over a hardwood form to gain the desired shape when exposed to mild heating and the required cooling period. There are other plastic products often thrown away that can be used also, but we just not forget many consumer product containers are designed to break down in sunlight. If your flying skills are such that you don't crash much anymore and you want your work to last more than three years with occational exposer to sunlight, it will be necessary to use modeler products with UV and other enhibitures. Other wise cracks and other problems will begin to show and the model with become too weak to fly safely. Of course the more details about successful and problem methods and materials we share, the more likely fewer of us will be disappointed with our creations, or risk safety and health issues. As to how to best skin foam, it depends on the foam, and the products used. I tend to use the very cheap wall plaster materials available for sheet rock, or plaster board. There is a commonly available plastering, or patching plaster that weights so little you think the container is empty. It sticks to most foam board materials very well, and can fill in the holes in various screen cloth materials to form a strong, light weight skin. It is also water clean up, but permanent when cured in 20 hours or so, depending on how thick the skin is. More information is available in the various threads about scratch building foam combat planes.
Posted on: 4/5/2011 10:47 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10444625

RE: Any advice on building a micro foamie with Parkzone mini mustang electronics?
Your planes look good to me. I am in the process of waiting for some receiver sets with servo on board to arrive so I can mount and see if one of my creations will fly well enough for the next club indoor.
Posted on: 3/2/2011 6:22 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10375473

RE: Scratch Build thread, PC9 Parkflyer
EPP foam is sold by a number of foam plane makers and suppliers of RC materials (new or independent small operations) in sheets for scratch builders. You can look up a few in here and other RC group sites by searching on EPP, or foam. I think I read at least one of the web site owners that sells EPP foam sheets is a member of this group and has left his .com addy with a statement he sells the foam board. You can also find the foam used to ship furniture to stores and I am told dumpster diving can yield a significant find during holiday sales and other days. I bought an EPP foam kit from Budget RC to build the "Nutball" parkflyer and am in the process of attaching the electronics and motor. The foam is very spongy and can be twisted within limits without noticeable damage, but some glues don't hold onto it very well. The other primary reason few use it is a lack of stiffness under load. You have to remember it likes to flex and place stiffening reinforcement and carbon fiber rod, tube, or flat stock are the most common ways. The Nutball has carbon fiber flat stock in the front, rear and in the tail/rudder and the strips are around 3mm by 1mm. It isn't much in the way of stiffener, but it works well enough to make the EPP stiff were it needs to be. A search on the web will yield a few pictures of what the sheet flyer looks like, but there are other sheet, or flat flyers just like it by other names; snowball is another example. They all look like pancakes with a motor, tail and RC electronics glued on. They are what you might call a trainer type of RC fun flyer since you can crash them many times and keep going unless you break a propeller or some other significant part. It isn't likely you will break the foam, but it can be cut or torn by obsticles, even though it is resistant to both types of damage. With the right kind of flexible glue the cut or tear can be repaired quickly and RC pilot flight training can continue as if nothing happened. Hot glue is a common construction and repair glue for EPP foam, but you do need to be as sparing as possible to keep the weight down.
Posted on: 2/23/2011 2:30 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10358420

RE: Scratch Build thread, PC9 Parkflyer
Best of luck on the exam and I will be looking forward to continued progress on the RC plane after you are certified as a pilot, or a tad sooner if you have the spare time. I do hope your dream of becoming a pilot in the 1:1 scale planes works out better than expected.
Posted on: 2/23/2011 6:32 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10357434

RE: Scratch Build thread, PC9 Parkflyer
A water thin-able primer and filler is a good way to go, as long as the weight gain is minimal and tuff enough to handle the flex of the foam. A while back I came across a mixture for foam aircraft projects you might want to experiment with. The basic ingredient is Lite Weight spackling compound available in all sorts of stores where wall board, plaster board and other like supplies are sold. I bought my last tub in Wally World (another name for Wal-mart) and the stuff is so light you swear there is nothing in the plastic tub, even the larger quart size. It is also water thin-able and water clean up as long as you do so before the stuff cures. Read the warning label so you know the risks and don't add much water to the paste or it might dry with cracks or unacceptable weakness. What you can do is thin it a bit, or a bunch with other water thin-able and clean up products that won't harm foam either. It is always best to test any product you think will work, and after curing over night, stress test the sample. Give it any sort of test you think will prove the stuff will stay put, not crack under stress, or chip off in the future. Any other test criteria is valid if it can prove your product mixture needs improvement to preserve your work. One of the products I have used to thin the spackling compound to make it more flexible and easy to paint on in very thin layers is called Polycrylic (water-based) produced by Minwax. It is a protective finish, durable and fast-drying, which makes it very compatible with the spackling compound characteristics. So far I haven't found a foam it will harm, and it protects the foam from all sorts of paints or primers that will damage various types of foam either a little, or more so. Of course you have to take care not to sand the protective coating away, or all bets are off if you later apply a paint or filler that will damage the foam. As with any product read the warning label and wonder if mixing the spackling compound with the Polycrylic might produce an unknown hazard. I don't know of any problems and have had a great deal of success with the two products complimenting each other in a variety of recipes and applications on foams from more than a few makers or sources. As one would guess, you don't want to use any more of the product or of a mixture (recipe) than is needed and you want to apply in thin coats if more than one coat is necessary. When ever more than one coat of anything is applied, the general rule is to lightly sand in a gentle matter between coats, but only enough to remove any hint of wax or a shine on the surface of the prior coat. The idea being not to remove a noticeable amount of the prior coat, but enough to allow the next to "bite" in. In one of my recipes I added a bit of talc powder to stiffen the mixture and applied it a tiny bit thicker than I normally would. One foam I haven't played with much is EPP board, which is very damage resistant and a target foam for future experiments and model RC airplane projects. I may find it necessary to use very little spackling compound or talc in future recipes with the EPP foam. I may even discover Polycrylic won't stick to EPP because of the foams ability to be crushed (within limits) without a noticeable damage mark after a short rest period. The damage resistance of EPP foam makes it a wonder product for RC flyers, but it also can be too flexible to hold the desired shape needed to be air worthy without stiffening materials like carbon fiber rod, tube, sheet, or flat stock. So finding a good recipe for priming and spackling EPP can be a challenge, but it can also provide a "skin" for EPP that might make it more air worthy with less need for carbon fiber parts or a fiber glass and epoxy skin. Maybe someone else has already come up with a solution for EPP foam, but I have no knowledge of another thread about this as of yet. There are many places a person might find the opinions and notes of others experimenting with EPP foam primers, fillers and coatings and I may never come across them. There is little to no reason someone with this knowledge would look for others seeking the information in a thread subject of; "Scratch Build Thread, PC9 Parkflyer", but they might investigate and comment in a thread with a more on topic subject heading. Think about that when you have a specific question others might seek answers for or find interest. It may be time to think of a very narrow subject and start a new thread. Maybe if we can think of a better way to word the subject heading we might stir up some information from others already gone down the road and are willing to talk about it. I will also give this some thought and try to come up with a subject heading for a new thread that is better than; Primer and filler for EPP (or another) foam. If not, I will use or you can use it for a new thread, but it may be better to follow the subject with a question mark as a good way to capture the interest of someone with an answer or two.
Posted on: 2/22/2011 8:45 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10356884

RE: Scratch Build thread, PC9 Parkflyer
I haven't used a product like micro-bubbles for a very long time. I think the same thing is called micro speres and other names for round objects. What I have used is talc powder that comes under many names, but normally mixes in well with just about anything. I normally mix a bit of talc with expoxy or water based, or water thin-able products I use as fillers or a primer. Not sure of your planned use for the micro-bubbles, which could be tiny glass beads, so I cannot say if talc will work just as well for you and save a lot of money over the years. Talc is sold as baby powder and other body soothing products with or without prefume.
Posted on: 2/22/2011 6:56 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10356597

RE: durable epp biplane
Most of the EPP foam bi-planes I have seen in person (indoor event) or on the internet are kits. There are a number of examples, most of which are from scratch builders, are profile, or flat sheet, or called 3-D models. Not much to them, so if you already have the electronics, the decision then becomes what size will provide the proper finished weight for your motor, ESC, and batteries? Gander at the recommendations for the model and you will still have many to choose from since most of us fly the same equipment and prefer the popular model sizes. RCFoam.com and others in the business offer more than a few bi-plane kit choices. You can see more on Youtube.com and like sites.
Posted on: 2/22/2011 4:00 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10356102

RE: Bettery/Charger question!
In my short period of experience and return to RC airplanes I have noticed there are an overwhelming number of charger options. To make matters more confusing, there are a huge number of plug options based on how many cells the LiPo or other battery pack has. Since I have a heavy background in electronics and repair of equipment, I understand the difference in plugs and changers has a lot to do with how much current (amps) will be drawn and the desires of various makers to dominate or improve the market. There is also the fact we are using electrical devices that are still "new" and evolving. Just 10 years ago much of what is available today was still someone's dream and needed to be invented. There are still a lot of bugs or disadvantages to work out and you can see this in how the newer battery packs are promoted and the fact different plugs are begin used. Last month I bought a new charger that can charge four batteries at the same time and each battery can be a different kind. You do have to learn how to set the charger up properly for each type of battery, but even that turned out to be easy to learn with the internal computer doing a check before charging started. Since I am purchasing various types of LiPo batteries, I am starting to collect a number of patch cords. I even need one for the RC trainer since it has a different connector than any of the battery packs have. I have newer battery packs ordered I will need yet another patch cord for so I can use them in my current tiny wing/hanger of aircraft and with my battery charger. It makes more sense to get a patch cord than it does to cut off the connectors already on a device. If you do decide to cut off the provided connector and replace it with a different option, there are a number of things you must do correctly, or the device will be damaged. One of the more common mistakes made is with LiPo battery packs. A person may know how to solder correctly, but they may also cut the two wires behind the undesired connector at the same time. Often what happens is the battery pack is shorted out through the cutting tool, which ruins the battery pack and may even harm the hobbiest. If a patch cord is purchased or constructed instead, there should be no problems if done properly and the needed objective is easily completed. Another common mistake is to try and use parts that aren't a good match and the size of the wire from each device is a huge clue. For example; if the motor has 4 mm connectors on the three thick wires, the ESC has 2mm connectors on thinner wire, and the battery pack has thick wire to large connectors, what is wrong with this picture a patch cord cannot compensate for? Thin wire normally is a clue the device can only handle a small amount of current draw. Thick wires is a huge clue the device is designed to handle much larger current draw. In the example a patch cord can be made for the ESC to connect it to the motor connectors and another patch cord to connect the other wires of the ESC to the battery pack. The catch is the thinner wires on the ESC suggest it will not handle the current the battery can supply and the motor will demand on any setting past 1/3 throttle on the transmitter. If nothing else on the ESC burns out, I would be looking for half melted wire insulation after the first throttle aggressive flight. It is more likely the ESC will be toasted and still hot and smoking when the motor stops turning suddenly. You can do the same thing with patch cords used with a charger. The catch is the Hobby Store owner and employees may not realize they are selling patch cords for chargers that can put out a lot of current to charge the larger 3 plus cell LiPo battery packs and other battery types. It still comes down to current draw and how much heat will be generated during the charging, or discharging cycle. As I said, the wire size is a huge clue, and so is the wire type. One other common mistake by new RC pilots is not setting the charger correctly before starting the charging or discharging cycle that often can damage the battery pack. If what I have said is confusing in any way, you need to enlist the help of someone with more experience and ask a lot of questions. If you haven't joined an RC club, allow me to encourage you to do so without delay and continue to seek advice in forums like this. It is much better to ask a silly question than to be silly enough to take an unnessary risk and do damage to your equipment or health. I am sure most of us have heard of how some folks over charged their LiPo pack and it swelled (vented gas), or smoked, or burned while producing toxic fumes. We may have even heard or read how others purchased more airplane than they could reasonably handle and someone or something got hurt or damaged. I still remember hearing how chain smokers burned down their homes while refueling their model airplanes in the house or garage. Maybe that sort of thing is less common these days, but now there are stories about LiPo fires and risks. At least the LiPo stories are far and few between, suggesting they are much safer and easier to manage. As to pilots trying to fly more airplane than they can manage is still a huge problem that has more to do with a lack of knowledge or a huge ego than anything else. The rest of us have to try and discourage dangerous behavior when we see it to help make this hobby better for everyone. In the end what all of this means is start small and ask for help to strength the learning curve and improve the success rate. I believe you are on the right path if you are reading this as helpful.
Posted on: 2/22/2011 3:51 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10356074

RE: Whats the best trainer
My first question about trainer needs would be; "what size?" The next would be; "Where do you plan to fly?" After that anwers are more practical. For example, I learned how to fly with an Ember 2, which is an indoor plane, but a lot of people don't want a trainer that small. The key to small is less money spent. The smaller indoor plans often come complete and ready to go with the least amount of fuss, but you need a very calm environment. If outside, you want the wind to be so calm you aren't sure there is any. That is a huge limitation when first wanting to learn how to fly and in a hurry to get started. The only other "normal" solution is an average sized trainer like the FlyLite by ElectriFly. The plane is a kit, but there is very little to do except install your electronics and mount the wheels, wing, rudder, and stabilizer. Even though there isn't much to do this might seem like a big deal to someone just getting started due to the "all new" learning curve. If someone with experience puts the plane together and gets it ready, the "all new" obsticle is restricted to learning to fly and charge the batteries without safety issues. The first flying experience should also be with an experienced training person who is comfortable and patient with a beginner. Normally this means the training person will also use a "buddy box", but I didn't have that advantage last month when I turned my son loose on my first "normal sized" trainer. What I did was fly the trainer up to a reasonable altitude and give the transmitter (Tx) to my son and told him to be ready to give it back if he came down a bit lower or was experiencing a problem. He almost crashed the plane a few times, but I managed to take the box from him in time and keep the experience positive. I was surprised he picked up the necessary skills quickly, but he does play enough hand-eye cordination games on the computer and X-box to have an advantage. Last Saturday was his first indoor event and he flew the Ember 2 until he had run down all my batteries, except two I had used. If I had of had the quick charger with four charging slots ready to go, he could have flew another half hour before the four hour time limit had expired. He only did a few hard landings and sharp turn minor crashes all night, so I can say his RC pilot skills have improved a lot. The Ember 2 was a better experience for him because he was in total control the full time and even did a few minor repairs and adjustments so he could keep flying. Recently another Ember 2 clone came out and I am told it is a little bigger, which might improve the indoor "wow" factor as a trainer. It is also cheaper and has a brighter paint finish. There may be some other nice things about it I don't know about yet and there might be some problems I don't know about. One thing is for sure it looks like another good "stick and wing" trainer. If the motor is a little bit stronger, it would also double as a nice outdoor trainer when the winds are near zero and the space to fly is plentiful with no damaging obsticles near by. Even a short, dried out weed is like a huge tree ready to eat the Ember 2. The wings on mine have plenty of signs of obsticle ramming, but I know how to keep the little machine repaired and flying yet again. This is a necessary skill if you purchase one of the "scale" appearance micro flyers like the Albatros by Flyzone. The other micro planes available are not for beginning pilots, but many new to the RC hobby buy them and want to start with one as their trainer. Not a good idea since the challenges can be overwhelming and end up chasing away another who could have been a believer in the joys of RC pilot fun.
Posted on: 2/22/2011 2:53 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10355948

RE: FF foam
No words or opinions about the other foam options? Maybe this isn't the thread to talk about EPP and others like Depron and such.
Posted on: 2/22/2011 2:24 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10355887

RE: Here's A Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! (Part 2)
Yes, indeed! An excellent choice with two ESC no less, but ... I am wondering how big a motor and amp draw this little receiver can handle? I am very new to this side of the hobby, but willing to learn all I can. I am also thinking if one is into flying scale models of warbirds, the 1/48 size, or about so would be the better option. I am not sure I can foam build a lite enough warbird in this size without taxing the Rx servos and ESC. Maybe there is a thread on the limitations of this Rx in the forum already? I am also very new to the website and learning how to get around and find threads.
Posted on: 2/21/2011 8:13 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Foamies! - RC Electric Foam Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10352566

RE: Retract kit anyone?
Sorry to read of the troubles and the flu bug. Obviously I am hoping the situation improves and you can make progress on the micro retract project. I have some park flyers that could use retracts also, especially if they were very, very light weight and tuff enough. All my best.
Posted on: 2/21/2011 8:03 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10352532

RE: MICRO-MINI ALBATROS from FLYZONE
You are welcome. I hope this will help the maker since I would love to see another model produced by Flyzone. Especially if it was a WW1 allied, but I wouldn't fuss much if it was another axis plane. I would more likely run out and buy it the first chance I got.
Posted on: 2/21/2011 7:59 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10352518

RE: Scratch Build thread, PC9 Parkflyer
Dang, still no pictures or response to the last post. Waiting with baited breath to see if this is a Hellcat, or another model. Looks like something I would want to do.
Posted on: 2/21/2011 7:55 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10352502

RE: Any advice on building a micro foamie with Parkzone mini mustang electronics?
Outstanding! I will be checking that thread momentarily.
Posted on: 2/21/2011 7:49 AM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10352487

RE: need some help getting started in indoor electric
Yes, I have seen that one before and a few other versions of it, even with two wings, as if a bi-plane, but ... I thought the objective was to get something for the son to learn how to pilot in a gym, or other like indoor event? If the objective hasn't changed you need to focus on the fact he needs a first trainer with very gentle characteristics, slow, and able to take some abuse. A slow flyer is needed, and the picture you liked isn't as slow as needed, nor does it fit the able to take abuse requirement. You really need to save money by purchasing something like the Ember or Vapor. There is another like the Ember, but a little bigger. I wish I could remember the name of it. It is a stick micro flyer and I bet you could make a copy, but the weak point may be the radio gear. The micro flyers use very tiny Rx and normally come with a Tx that looks like most game console controllers. The Ember has a Tx that looks almost exactly like the Xbox game controllers. I have found that shape and weight very comfortable to use and recommend them to new RC pilots. So, what have you done, or are you still thinking and planning?
Posted on: 2/20/2011 11:43 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10351936

RE: Retract kit anyone?
I think it is safe to assume the scheme didn't pan out and other concerns rose to the top of his honey-do list. I was looking around in a site for robot parts and it appeared they offer some very small servo sets that might work on the little ultra micro planes we like so much. I am thinking a 1 once or 1.5 once servo dedicated to retractable gear would do the trick, but maybe my lack of experience will prove different. Any ideas from those who have made retracts for their smaller planes? I do comprehend weight gain would be a serious issue for the micro flyers and the CG.
Posted on: 2/20/2011 11:31 PM by Author "Tsavah" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10351924