RE: The Best Engines Ryobi
I am in the process of modding a new Ryobi 31cc. I have been told that it is actually a Homelite motor. This is out of a new 2007 Ryobi weedwacker. I am just waiting on the conversion parts from carr precision to arrive. So far I run 4 Ryobi tank fulls of go go juice thru it. On the fourth tank which is probably in the neighborhood of 30:1 I measured 6800 rpm with a 18X6W prop. It does have adjustable needles. The trick is you can't adjust them as they come. I tried like heck to get the sucker out with needle nose pliers, no way hoseay. I ended up getting them out using my trusty 4" side cutters which I normally use to cut my fingernails. Once you get them out you can cut a slut on the top with a dremel cut-off wheel so you can adjust the suckers with a screw driver. At first I couldn't get this little puppy to run more than 10 seconds. Seems for this engine 1 1/4 turns on the low and 3/4-7/8 on the high make it start easily and run up smoothly. Zama's web site says that they design and ship out all their carbs so they run reasonably well with 1 turn on each screw. Somebody at Ryobi must of played with it at the factory before sending it out (snicker, snicker) to Home Depot. Since I don't yet have the prop hub and nut I am using from fan on outwards (fellow club member turned the fan for me on his lathe, thanks Richard) the small 3/8" washer that came off of the motor along with 2 automotive rubber shock absorber bottom stops, prop, 1 more rubber stopper, the big 3/8" washer, then finally the big nut that was part of the clutch. Tried finding a RCJ4 champion plug locally, no luck, so I did a little research and cross referencing and criss crossing ect. It runs great on the Champion RCJ8 and also the Champion EZ start 5842. Also the NGK BPMR6A works well. I found that the RCJ4 was fouling to readily. Head temp was measured at 256*F while engine had been running for 80 minutes non stop. A little info on the Champion plugs R=resistor, CJ=14mm with 3/8" reach, the # is the temperature range. Heat range The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling. The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug�, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug� has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter. An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug. Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
Posted on: 6/2/2007 11:05 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5936613

RE: Ryobi Mods a Photo Essay..
I have just started to mod a new Ryobi 31cc weed wacker myself. This is the stage I am at now. One of the fellows at my club has and is turning down the cooling fins on the crankshaft at the moment. But this is stage I am at now. Notice any similarity to the Homelite engine? I am currently sourcing out the prop hub and nut. As for an engine mount, it looks like the homelite firewall flat mount is the way for me to go. I am waiting for a reply from wackerengines on that one. I tried calling him a couple of times today. The first time his cell kept cutting out, he said he was shopping in a store. The second time he hung up on me. I will report later in the week as the progress of this. Now the first thing you all will notice is that the muffler is mounted on the side and not on the rear. The next is that it has a Zama carburator on the other side. I am tempted to keep the stock muffler seeing as that I can simply unscrew the output side of it and make up one to send the exhaust downward so that it won't melt the monokote on my plane and it is relatively light to top it all off.
Posted on: 5/20/2007 2:15 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5878292

RE: savage 18t clutch bell
The 18 tooth will give you more top end and a lot less torque off the line. But after running both the 14 & 15 tooth and seeing how anything else other than brand new tires or near brand new will balloon out of shape at high speeds, why bother with the 18 tooth clutch bell unless your using the small diameter road rage tires?
Posted on: 10/4/2005 9:55 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3420722

RE: i dont understand
The trick is that you have to learn how to jump properly leading to a good landing. Give it throttle while in the air and the nose will go up, give it to much and you'll land upside down. Close the throttle while flying through the air and you'll must likely land nose first. Try hittling the brakes while in mid air and see what happens. Personally I like doing forward rolling flips.
Posted on: 10/4/2005 9:50 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3420706

RE: How often do you guys break Savage 25 parts?
If your not breaking it, your not trying hard enough to have a blast.
Posted on: 6/16/2005 7:31 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3081124

RE: Savage with a Turbine...
Why would you want to waste your time trying to wedge a turbine into a Savage. If your going to spend your hard earned bucks on a turbine, you might as well go all the way and build a monster truck that could harness all the potential of such an awesome piece of modern mechanical marvel.
Posted on: 6/16/2005 7:27 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3081113

RE: Humpack goes?
Do not coat your battery packs in plastic dip. Do some research and you will discover that batteries emit a small amount of gasses when charging ect., this must be vented out or it could become explosive. Your asking for some really major problems down the road. How would you feel if you came home from a long day at school or work and found your home burnt to the ground because of a small battery pack, it could happen. There is no need to discharge the batteries before recharging, your only going to shorten your batteries life time.
Posted on: 5/15/2005 10:22 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2976442

RE: Lots of broken savage drivelines
I don't know what you are doing to those poor dogbones. I have managed to sheer the teeth off of my spider gears a couple of times by keeping the brakes on a tad to long when doing foward flips. But have not managed to bend or break a dogbone yet.
Posted on: 2/2/2005 6:09 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2614188

RE: Some bashing pics..... muddy
You aren't bringin that thing into my house until you wash it clean!
Posted on: 1/29/2005 12:39 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2597847

RE: HPI Dual brake install question
I had to install mine with the screws a little loose. I have run about 20 tanks of fuel thru the little sucker since, no problems. Just remember to be quick on releasing the brakes when doing foward flips, if you are slow and flip at speed and land with the brakes still applied it doesn't take to long to shear some teeth out of the differental gears.
Posted on: 12/31/2004 12:20 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2485387

RE: Weaher conditions for running the Savage
If you run it in wet snow or wet conditions, it will run. Absolutely. But................ if you get the clutch wet it will slip, heat up real real fast, melt/shear off all the teeth on the spur gear. But its a lot of fun anyhow. [:D]
Posted on: 12/29/2004 11:32 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2481637

RE: BRAKES !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I found i had to replace that dumb piece of fuel tubing on the brake rod every other day. I simply gave up on it and got a couple of strong springs out of some ball point pens, slipped one spring over the other. Works quite well, I am now able to do foward flips when ever I want to. (Note: You must release the brakes before it lands on the wheels again otherwise you'll shear some teeth off of the differential gears.)
Posted on: 12/29/2004 11:28 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2481622

RE: Locktight Prob
Heat it up with a soldering iron, patience. Another thing to try is this. make sure you have something solid on the opposite side of the screw you are trying to loosen. Place a screw, center punch or other hard metal object onto or into the head of the screw, rap (hit) towards the direction of the threads with a hammer or heavy pliers. You might be able to break the bond.
Posted on: 12/29/2004 11:23 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2481607

RE: does this fix it?
Most of the time. But it has to be installed correctly. Now I know you are going to ask. To install a header tank correctly its clunk line nipple must be equal in height to the fuel nipple of the carb. It can be upwards to 1/4" lower. But never higher than the carb nipple, otherwise you will all to frequently experience flooding problems when trying to start up. You will experience some leaning when down to the last 1/4" of fuel in the main tank but it will then run normally again after it runs the main dry. Nicest thing about the header tank, most of time when you flip it upside down, it will continue to run allowing you to take your sweet time to get to it and flip it back on its wheels and continue bashing with out the hassles of restarting.
Posted on: 9/28/2004 6:56 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2208672

RE: Racing savage 25
The easiest way to lower it is to remove the 1/2" wide black plastic spacers above the shock springs. They are just snapped in place. You remove the gears out of the front differential. This will make it a rear wheel drive vechicle. The reason for this is that it will corner much better when the front wheels are uncoupled from the drive train.
Posted on: 9/12/2004 11:43 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2167403

RE: having problrms tuning
First things first. Pull the air filter off and set the idle screw so that there is a gap at the right side of the carb slide about the width of a paper match stick. Tune the low speed mixture screw so that AFTER the engine is nicely warmed up (run it till your around 1/2 tank of fuel remaining), so that when you pinch the fuel line closed about 1" from the carb, it starts to lean out around the 3 second count.
Posted on: 9/12/2004 9:10 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2167114

RE: Cant decide!!!
How about this one then. There are a lot more Savages around, parts are more readily available (most of the time). And just simply a lot more hop up parts available for the Savage. Got it. Get it.
Posted on: 8/31/2004 7:59 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2135810

RE: is it me or is this set up bad for me
Its you. Get the truck warmed up (run it down to 1/2 tank). But before you do this take off your air filter and make sure the idle speed screw is holding the barrel out the required amount (about the thickness of a paper match stick at its widest part). Next set the low speed needle (middle of the carb slide on the left) pinch the fuel line shut about 1" from the carbee. It should start lean out around 3 seconds. After you have set the low speed and only after you've set the low speed, adjust the high speed needle. If it seems like it balks when trying to shift into second, open up the main neddle another 1/2-1/2 turn.
Posted on: 8/31/2004 7:56 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2135802

RE: what parts break
Let me ask you this? What do you want to break?
Posted on: 8/18/2004 10:33 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2097958

RE: truckzilla and loads of headache tabs
Is your header tank mounted properly? The output nipple must be mounted as close to the same horizontal plane as the inlet nipple of the carbourator, it can be upwards to 1/4" lower, but should never be mounted higher (unless you want an engine that constantly floods).
Posted on: 8/8/2004 8:49 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2064862

RE: THIS SUCKS!!!!!!
So, what are you bumping this post for. A single tear rolls down my cheek for you, boo hoo. I am now in my 40's. When I was 12yrs old I managed to save up $575 dollars to buy a new Fender Stratocaster guitar by cutting lawns, shoveling snow out of driveways, picking up empty pop & beer bottles (the deposit was only .02C back then). Quit whining & keep at it, you'll eventually get your Savage.
Posted on: 8/8/2004 8:39 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2064849

RE: K+N FILTER
K&N filters are some of the best in the world, if you use the proper oil with it.
Posted on: 8/8/2004 8:33 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2064844

RE: Rear diff making clicking noises!!!
Don't feel bad. I did the 4 spider gear mod. A couple of weeks later I installed the dual disc brake thingee. Zipping around touch the brakes, the little Savage did a few forward flips. Looked real cool. Sheared half the teeth off of the pinion gear, exactly 1/2 of them.
Posted on: 8/5/2004 7:08 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2056154

RE: IS IT ME OR EVERYONE SUCKS AT THIS
It has to be you. I can thread an antenna wire thru the tube in less than 7 seconds. 1-blow a bit of spit into the tube. 2-run the lead thru your fingers a couple of times to smooth out the bends that are in it from being coiled up. 3-run some spit up and down the lead. 4-insert lead into tube and gently push it thru. Simple & easy.
Posted on: 8/5/2004 7:05 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2056148

RE: OFNA Picco .26
The stock motor mount works just fine, after you bevel the top inner edge a little. The pico is just a bit wider than the stock S-25.
Posted on: 8/2/2004 11:40 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2046088

RE: How to wash it
Find a big puddle and drive thru it real fast.
Posted on: 7/27/2004 7:46 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2027245

RE: Biggest Whoops!! Ever.
Well the point of the first tank is to get hot so the metal will anneal and then let it cool naturally at its own pace. If it didn't have a real strong burning metal smell it should be ok.
Posted on: 7/27/2004 7:45 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2027243

RE: RUNAWAY!!!
There are no seals to be blown by hydrolocking this kind of motor. Go thru readjusting the needles on your carb as per the manual, especially the idle speed needle. If the idle speed needle is off you will be forever cranking the needles endlessly untill the threads and seals go the way of the dinosaur. While your at it check and make sure the head hasn't come loose.
Posted on: 7/26/2004 7:45 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2024052

RE: Hummer H2 Body
Here is mine after a couple of months of bashing. Same thing as I have read others post, it cracked down the left rear corner. But of the 4 other bodies I have the Hummer is the best for protecting the cylinder head and with the Hummer body you don't need wheelie bars. It will ride along on the back of the body which looks so coool when you do it. BTW this is not a recent photo. There is even less paint left on it now.
Posted on: 7/23/2004 7:21 AM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2015872

RE: Picco .26 and what engine mount????
I found that I had to take about 1/16" of material at the top inner side of the stock mount (like one side of a V), then it fit perfectly.
Posted on: 7/21/2004 7:46 PM by Author "Twobeers" in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2011430