RE: D4
That's probably cause she's a guy..... [8|] [quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield I will be there. I think it will be a nice weekend (although I am a little freaked by the food truck girl [:o] ) [/quote]
Posted on: 5/15/2013 8:56 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512800

RE: Joe's Electric Integral Build Thread
Joe, Normally, when converting JR servos to the SA versions, the metal output gear is left in place in all the servos. I'm not sure there would be a problem replacing it with nylon, but I've never heard of anyone doing it that way. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield Hi Everyone, I'm going to do a build thread of my Integral, for fun, and for a place for anyone to learn or offer advice. I am really excited about this for a few reasons - to take my time and enjoy building a sweet airplane, the fact that I got the airplane I wanted (Thanks Bob and Verne!!), and it is my first 2M airplane. I really have enjoyed everything about this hobby and look forward to so much more to come in the future. So he plan is to start mostly stock - I have a set of foam cores that I will build afterward, hopefully to play with the wing angles and trimming. I may add wing adjusters to the stock wings at some point, but for now the plan is to build it straight and stock. A few things: 1) of course the weight of the wings - both wings weigh more than the plane. The foam cores should be lighter. 2) the gear - these are stock gear but really seem pretty flexible. They are also lighter than others have posted. I know comp arf has 'new' gear they advertise with the valiant that is supposed to be light, and flex enough to avoid fuse damage. Not sure if these are that gear, but I will be replacing with Graphtech anyway for the extra height and to make it look the way I want. 3) I have nylon replacement gears for all the servos, though will likely leave the metal output gear on the rudder. I got the PBG wing tube which is longer and still ~24g lighter. Here are the weights: Fuse 735 Chin Cowl 79 Canopy 86 Left Wing 403 Right Wing 412 Rudder 63 Left Elevator 120 Right Elevator 120 Rudder Rod 10 Balsa Strips 4 Wheel Pants 32 Hardware Pack 70 Stab Rod 6 Wing Tube 86 PGB Tube: 64g -24g Stab Tube 13 Servo Tray 23 9411 Servo 44 8411 Servo 62 3517 Servo (mg) 32 - I have nylon gears to replace 3517 servo 28 Tail Wheel 10 (3DHS small carbon) ESC 124 (ICE HV80, with wires and connectors) Rx 15 Regulator 13 Regulator 13 Right Gear 57 Left Gear 56 Motor (Advance) 580 Prop Adapter 20 Starting Weight: 3316g Current Weight: [b]3292g[/b] [/quote]
Posted on: 9/3/2012 9:26 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11216473

RE: Drawing for foam Integral cores?
Joe, It's more of just a sketch that shows the wood thickness for the LE, TE, and so on. Mickey should be at the D4 Championship and you can just ask him there. The aileron will be the same size as the one on your composite wing. I capped mine with 1/4" Contest so naturally, you'd have to remove 1/4" from the LE of the ailerons and another 1/4" from the face of the cutout to accommodate the wood. All of this happens after you've sheeted the wings. The root rib is 1/8" lite ply as is the false rib on the outer edge of the tube socket. I don't remember what Mickey specified for the wing tip of the LE of the wing. Hopefully he will. Mickey and I are probably the only two guys who actually built wings from the cores he cut. I built 3 Integrals with his wings and Mickey builds almost every plane out of Chicago except for Dave Snow's stuff. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield I got a set of ''Micky?'' foam cores for my Integral over the weekend. I thought I remember Verne saying there was a drawing that should go with it. Does anyone have it? I am looking forward to building my first set of wings, once I've got my Integral together and flying with stock wings. [/quote]
Posted on: 8/27/2012 6:40 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11208389

RE: CAELESTIA NEW F3A 2011
I'll take 100 degrees over snow any day..... Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield [quote]ORIGINAL: cmoulder Will do! I won'tbe able to fly again until the AGS contest next weekend but will make it a point to do so. Should be good and hot, therefore a valid test. [/quote] There is [u]nothing[/u] good about this. This is insane. I am not going outside. I don't even think I will go to work tomorrow, unless my AC breaks down, in which case I will be working overtime through next week. The Caelestia is such a sweet looking airplane. I am looking forward to seeing some on Muncie. Hopefully I will not melt before then, and I will find some time to venture outside to practice. [/quote]
Posted on: 7/4/2012 9:56 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11143435

RE: field charging lipos
To cut down on the generator noise, I carry a 25' extension cord with me and place the generator at the front bumper of my van with the exhaust pointing away. All of my flying, pit activity and so on is done from the rear of the van. It's amazing how much that reduces the aggravating sound of my Honda 1000w generator. My only personal rule on that is to put the generator back in the van the instant I shut it off, lest I forget about it and run over it. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: Anthony-RCU Did the marine battery battery thing for a few years and got tired of only charging one pack @1c at a time. If I had to do it over maybe I would get two so I could have 24v and more capacity. Started with higher c charge rates at the end of last year and haven't looked back. Bought a Honda 2k and am very happy. I also bought a disconnect panel for the house to run my furnace or frig during outages to justify the cost. Built a 24v ps from two HP 600 power supplies and use a fma 10 xp. I fly a lot after work so everything lives in my van and the first thing out of the car is the genie and the chargers. By the time I change my clothes and put the plane together my first pack is ready. I hate listening to the gennie and they are expensive but I don't miss staying up at night babysitting packs and leaving charged packs in my car. Higher c packs really don't like to sit charged very long. [/quote]
Posted on: 7/4/2012 1:10 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11142934

RE: Composite-ARF Integral, kinda build thread
I used the F3A Long on my Integrals, though the F3A Electric would probably be okay. The F3A long are just a little taller than the electric. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield Aeroproduct.net has ''an exact clone'' of the Bolly F3A electric gear. Verne, thanks for the suggestion - I found it on another page [:)] [/quote]
Posted on: 6/29/2012 8:05 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11137224

RE: Composite-ARF Integral, kinda build thread
Joe, I strongly recommend the Hacker C50-14XL Comp. The non comp versions are prone to overheating resulting in magnet separation. The comp version has a built-in fan that prevents all of that. I bought two of them 8 years ago and still use them today. In fact, those are the only two electric motors I've ever had or needed. With 25C batteries, I never use or need full power. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield I picked the plane up this weekend - thanks Verne and Bob! 1) I am still undecided about motor selection. I want light weight and reliable. My choices are Plettenberg 25-12 Evo, Neutral F3A, and Hacker C50 (non comp). I do have a Neu 1512 that I can use as a backup if there was ever an issue with the Neu F3A, so down time would be minimal. The Pletty 25 is an 18.4 oz outrunner that meets the required specs, but I don't see a lot of field usage, nor know about service. I imagine the Hacker is reliable and I know about getting it serviced, but if the c50 is enough, why is there a comp version for $300 extra? , 2) I'm working through servo selection. Not sure if I want to stay with one brand, or mix Futaba and JR for the lighted possible combination. This may depend on whether or not the 9411 will fit in the ailerons; it will br close as the lite ply is cut close to 1.5in long. JR has a cored servo that is a direct drop-in in the stab (ds831 i think). It is inexpensive and light but so far, my favorite servos (very smooth feeling) have been coreless. That being said I have little experience with JR (821 only) and no experience with Futaba. [/quote]
Posted on: 6/25/2012 8:50 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131945

RE: Composite-ARF Integral, kinda build thread
Joe, Bob Kane has one but I'm not sure if he plans on selling it. I sent him an e-mail. BTW, having built 3 of them, I recommend reducing the downthrust to 1/2 degree, adding a half degree of right thrust, set the wing at 1/2 degree positive and leave the stab at 0. I had the CG at about 1/8" behind the LE of the wing tube. With those settings, it's a great flying plane. OTOH, Andrew and Jason had a lot of success flying them box stock and mixing out the anomolies. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield Well, unfortunately Chief Aircraft was erroneous in telling me they had a plane in stock. I got a call this afternoon saying the plane is unavailable. The Comp Arf rep said the last white one made is already sold. I'm hoping the other rep has on stored in his hobby shop somewhere. I am pretty good at making things happen, I hope I can continue my luck on this one. An all-white composite ARF for $1000 is really meant for me. [/quote]
Posted on: 6/21/2012 6:22 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11127166

RE: Coupling question
Hahaha, I can SEE Harry saying that. He was a great guy to be around once you got to know him! Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: TonyF My old coach Harry Roe had a great name for most of this type of discussion. He'd call it ''aerodramatics''. [/quote]
Posted on: 6/5/2012 11:35 AM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11107487

RE: Proposed 2013/2014 Sequences
is a better choice. Verne Koester [quote]ORIGINAL: Silent-AV8R [quote]ORIGINAL: VerneK Correct on the triangle
Posted on: 6/4/2012 9:03 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106798

RE: Proposed 2013/2014 Sequences
Correct on the triangle except the angle is a 45. Verne Koester [quote]ORIGINAL: Silent-AV8R [quote]ORIGINAL: rene69 The Aresti sequence is not the same as the last posted. First maneuver should be Double Stall Turn not a Square loop. Regards Rene [/quote] Looks like they re-posted the Aresti for the previous proposed sequence again. Give it some time and I'll bet the latest version will show up. [8D] The half triangle loop with a half roll up (Fig 17). Does that basically look like a ''7''. Pull a 60 degree up line, ½ roll, push 120 degrees to upright and eit? [/quote]
Posted on: 6/4/2012 6:33 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106588

RE: Integral Hinges
I built 3 Integrals and the hinges were fine thru thousands of flights. I'm sure the Valiant hinges are equally as good. Verne Koester [quote]ORIGINAL: jkruger I'm weighing purchasing either a Valiant or Integral. Have some concerns over the durability of the Integral hinges. Would appreciate any comments Thanks [/quote]
Posted on: 6/4/2012 6:28 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11106582

RE: CAELESTIA NEW F3A 2011
I've always had good results with clear monocote. The best way to apply it is to use a straight edge in the slot similar to the photo you have from JP to keep it properly aligned. Use your iron set real low so it will just barely activate the adhesive and tack it in place every 1/8" or so. With the iron still set real low, finish ironing it in place. This method will avoid air bubbles. Then turn the iron up to normal monocote temps of 260F or so and go over it all again. Another option is Blenderm tape, a 3M product. It can be a little tricky to use because it grabs like crazy and it's stretchy. I keep it attched to the roll while I'm applying it and use a bondo spreader to push it into place one side at a time. By that I mean, do the aileron side first and then do the TE of the aileron cutout second. It may take a couple tries before you get the hang of it. I think Dubro packages Blenderm as a hinging tape for foamies. It's very flexible and lasts forever. I personally prefer clear monocote but have used both methods with great results. I normally use the monocote for covered wings and stabs and Blenderm for the rudder so I won't have to put a hot iron on the painted rudder post on my fuse. With the composite surfaces you're dealing with, Blenderm might be the better choice. Hope this helps! Verne Koester [quote]ORIGINAL: cmoulder Thanks, gents! Good advice. J-P I cannot find the Dave Brown product on this side of the pond but I will find an alternative. I got the front motor mount installed today, and the elevator servo leads, and made some well-placed holes in the fuse for servo leads and air venting. [/quote]
Posted on: 5/31/2012 9:19 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11102008

RE: Obechi instead of balsa?
If it's any consolation, I've been using my leftover stock for years for a variety of purposes. It's great for making small shims to level mounting rails to flanges on glass parts and other such purposes where a thin shim is desired. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: LRFitch Guys, Thanks for the advice.  I think I will use the balsa as the instructions direct. Larry Fitch [/quote]
Posted on: 5/27/2012 9:26 AM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11096239

RE: Obechi instead of balsa?
Obechi is a suitable covering for foam wings. Compared to balsa, it's heavier and would be more difficult to cover with an iron-on covering. I used it years ago when I painted my wings and it worked fine. Currently, I wouldn't use it because of the weight and covering difficulties. Hope this helps! Verne Koester [quote]ORIGINAL: LRFitch Folks, I'm in the process of building a few 110-120 sized pattern airplanes. Currently working on a Black Magic 110, with a Boxer 120 sitting on the shelf waiting it's turn. I understand that normally pattern airplanes have foam core wings covered with 1/16'' balsa.  I have some Obechi veneer sitting in the shop, and am wondering why this material used lots for sheeting foam-core glider wings wouldn't make good sheeting for a pattern airplane.  Any thoughts or ideas from more experienced folks? [/quote]
Posted on: 5/25/2012 10:01 AM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11094344

RE: Proposed 2013/2014 Sequences
[quote]ORIGINAL: VerneK Unless I missed it, I haven't seen a single post in this thread
Posted on: 5/24/2012 8:26 AM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093026

RE: Proposed 2013/2014 Sequences
Joe, Just so there's no misunderstanding of what I said, I don't advocate adding spins, 4-points, slow rolls, or snaps to the Intermediate schedule. That level is all about learning to fly a fairly basic set of maneuvers without leaving the box and at that level, it's a significant challenge coming from the Sportsman level. While you might be comfortable doing a spin, snap, 4-point, or whatever, it's not appropriate to expect someone just coming out of Sportsman to do it in the confines of the box they're now required to stay in for the duration of the flight. My time in the judge's chair tells me Intermediate is plenty difficult enough. When it becomes boring and you're consistently flying it well, it's time to move up to the challenges of Advanced. This is always the problem faced by the Sequence Committee. Someone at or near the top of their game in their current class wants to make that class harder rather than moving up. You can't do that and make the transition from the lower class reasonable/logical. That's what I'm talking about when I say keeping an eye in the rear view mirror. From my judging time in the D4/D5 arena, I'm confident that the difficulty level at each step is currently right where it should be. The good turnouts we've been getting the last few years in all classes tells me we're not driving/scaring anyone away at any level. It wasn't very long ago that pattern was dying out from the bottom up. Verne Koester [quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield The intermediate sequence ending in a spin, rather than a stall turn, sounds like a pretty cool idea. I tried a spin for the first time the other day - it was fun :) I agree with Verne - learning a snap, a spin, 4pt roll, and a slow roll as all new maneuvers in one sequence sounds like a lot. [/quote]
Posted on: 5/24/2012 7:45 AM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11092972

RE: Proposed 2013/2014 Sequences
Unless I missed it, I haven't seen a single post in this thread expressing concern for an Intermediate pilot transitioning into Advanced. Let's see, in Intermediate, you learn how to keep a fairly basic set of maneuvers in the box. That's what Intermediate is, learning to fly in the box and at that level, it's a huge step. Now from there, we go to Advanced where you have to learn how to do a slow roll, 4-point roll, snap, and spin. Do you really think Advanced should be more difficult, or Masters for that matter? If we don't keep the steps reasonable for pilots on their way up, nothing else will matter. You won't have enough contestants at a local contest to fill a country bar on a Tuesday afternoon. That's what the sequence building guidelines are all about. You can't ever build a new schedule simply looking forward to the next higher step. You always have to have your eye in the rear view mirror. If you don't, the next look you get will be an empty mirror. Verne Koester
Posted on: 5/22/2012 9:00 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11091252

RE: Parallel Charging
If you still have the Cellpro 10S, try charging your 10S pack with that. If it works, you either have a bad 10XP or have the wrong settings. If you're using the Cellpro boards, you should be using the default FMA settings for wiring. I know for certain that the boards work with both Thunderpower and Zippy packs which are both wired the same and just have a different plug. I read the manual from the FMA site about different wiring configurations for balance taps and found it confusing at best. If you're using TP or Zippy packs and FMA boards, the default settings for wiring configurations should be fine. Beyond that, I'm afraid I'm not qualified to offer much help. There's a lot of info about XH configurations on Pg 13 of their manual which might make sense to you if you have a different configuration. I never liked the balance boards and stopped using mine a long time ago. I have a 12" TP extension and modified the male end to fit into where the balance boards normally attach. From there, I either attach a TP balance tap directly or use a short adaptor from HK to attach a Zippy pack. The Zippy adapter doesn't change the orientation of the wires which is why I'm confused when FMA says that JST-XH is different. Stick with the default FMA setting and you should be fine. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: wattsup Verne, thanks for your response. I've run the Cellpro 10S for the last 3 seasons so I'm familiar with the basics of both units. Prior to and after your suggestions, I tried everything again and the same error message appeared. BTW, this is the second 10XP unit I've had in the last 3 weeks. The first one gave the same error message and completely shut down while I was charging 5s packs x2 at 2c. It had to be sent back and was replaced under warranty. So, as you can imagine, this does not make me feel very good. At least my Cellpro 10S unit allowed you to continue to charge using the balancing boards only if you had to. The main reasons I decided to upgrade to the 10XP unit was flexilibilty, increased charging options and increased capacity over the older technology of the 10S unit. If I can overcome this glitch I stand to gain alot in overall performance due to the weight savings of 8-9 ounces in battery weight. I'm open to more suggestions and encourage others to join in this discussion. Thanks again, Everette [/quote]
Posted on: 5/5/2012 8:40 AM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11069344

RE: Parallel Charging
Everette, The black negative wire from your pack goes to the black terminal on the top of the charger. The red positive wire from your pack goes to the red terminal on the top of the charger. The two center terminals aren't used in the 10S configuration. On the side of your charger, there are two balance tap connectors labelled "Ch 1" and "CH 2". How you use those will depend on how you're hooking up your balance taps. If you use the balance boards that Revelectrix sells, you'll need a balance board for each channel. The balance board plugged into CH 1 will connect to the balance tap closest to the black wire from your pack. You'll use the 5S connector on the board. The board connected to the Ch 2 gets the balance tap closest to the red wire on your pack and you'll use the 5S connector on that board. The charger will internally treat it as two, 5S packs in series which it actually is. Before you do any of that, you'll need to program the charger to accept a 10S pack as well as the charge rate you plan to charge at. The hookup for all of this is the same as it was with the CellPro 10S. I charge this way all the time even though I use 5S packs and just hook them up in series. The easiest way to remember it is black always goes with Ch1 and red always goes with Ch 2. Once you hook it up a few times, it'll be second nature. Hope this helps! Verne Koester [quote]ORIGINAL: wattsup Bob, The message I get is: CH1 Bad S. Count/Node Wiring XH. Keep in mind, this 10s pack has only 2 charge wires (not 4) and 2 balance connectors. This is a single pack with 10 cells. I sure hope this charger is capable of this task because if it is, I'm in the process of saving at least 8-9 oz vs 2x5s packs! How does a Msytic with an AUW of <10lbs sound? Everette [/quote]
Posted on: 5/4/2012 9:31 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11068987

RE: Nuance
Mike, If you use blind nuts (I highly recommend it) you'll need to make the ply plate out of 1/8" 5-ply. You can pull blind nuts right through lite ply. I roughed up the ply plate and phenolic with 80-grit sandpaper to give it extra "tooth". It's probably overkill, but I wanted to make sure the adjuster wouldn't slide around under load. Phenolic is pretty slippery stuff unsanded. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: mups53 [/quote] That's nice Verne. It'll be on my plane tomorrow. Thanks, Mike [/quote] [/quote]
Posted on: 4/27/2012 1:35 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11059328

RE: Nuance
Arch, Sounds like another F3A Unlimited accessory to me!!! [8D] Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: rcpattern I would really like to see Extreme Flight make those available. I really liked them on my Vanquish. A set of Gators in the front or rear and these on the other would make adjustments very easy. Arch [/quote]
Posted on: 4/25/2012 7:29 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11056948

RE: Nuance
Mike, Here's what I made for the front adjusters on my Xigris. I use Gators for the rear adjuster. It worked great and enabled me to dial the wing in within a couple flights. I got the idea from the Vanquish. I started off with countersunk 4-40 flat head screws glued into the ply plate. I couldn't really torque them down like I wanted to so I drilled them out and replaced them with 4-40 blind nuts and slightly oversize washers. The plate itself is 1/8" phenolic. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: mups53  Here's a crude diagram of the home made wing adjuster [/quote]
Posted on: 4/25/2012 7:25 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11056942

RE: Rocket city linkages
Ouch, sorry to hear that! I hope you're able to fix it. Verne
Posted on: 3/18/2012 3:18 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11005839

RE: Rocket city linkages
Dennis, Not sure what you were up against. If the stud broke off flush with the surface, you had a nightmare for sure. If there was anything sticking out you could grab with pliers, there's a pretty easy way to get it out depending on how it was installed. I never leave the head of the screw on so all you had was a threaded stud epoxied in place. If you had heated the stud with a soldering iron, the epoxy would have broken down and you could have simply pulled the stud out with pliers. I got pretty good at that back when we were using 4-40 links for control horns. I got tired of doing the repair and switched over to 6-32 stainless and never had another failure. The piece that broke on you was a 6-40 screw with the head cut off (by me) that came with the Rocket City linkage. Between all the flights by me, then Steve Miller and now you, I'm kind of surprised it broke. You gotta figure if it hadn't broken by now, it wasn't going to. Anyway, the method I just described will work if you have any more break as long as there's enough sticking out to get a hold of. Verne
Posted on: 3/18/2012 2:07 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11005740

RE: Rocket city linkages
Dennis, Assuming it's my old Smaragd, it's a 6-40 thread. Rocket City used that to allow a finer adjustment than you get with a 6-32. I still have a few packages of those linkages left if you need some. Verne [quote]ORIGINAL: d_bodary no it's bigger then 6-32 which is bigger then 4-40. I have decided to use a 4mm and retap everything for that size. [/quote]
Posted on: 3/17/2012 9:50 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11004953

RE: Round rudder servo arm
Hi Clint, It's been a few years since I used a pull-pull wheel but never had a problem when I did. The wheel, like a conventional servo arm is going to have equal throw in both directions (if the right side goes forward 1", the left side will go rearward 1"). The trick in all of this is to make sure the pivot point back at the rudder is exactly on the center of the rudder hinge line which is the pivot point of the rudder. If the connection points on the rudder horn are offset from the hinge line, you'll have unequal rotational movement of those points. That's when you get cables that tighten on one side while going slack on the other. You've got a rudder arm or wheel that's moving equally in both directions on the servo end and connection points on the rudder that aren't moving equally because they're offset from the pivot point of the rudder which is the hinge line of the rudder. Finding horns that will put the connection point on the hinge line can be difficult. Most of the ones I've seen don't project the attachment point far enough forward of the mounting base of the horn. By the time you sand the bevel into the leading edge of the rudder, there's nothing left to screw the base of the horn to while still keeping the attachment point on the rudder hingeline. I designed some horns a few years ago that projects the attachment point 3/8" forward of the front of the base to take care of that. They were machined by Geoff Combs (former F3A pilot) at his rapid prototype shop in Ohio and are still available for sale. I use the shortest ones for the rudder, but all three sizes are designed to be interchangeable with the pivot points 3/8" forward of the front of the base. I'm not sponsored by Geoff and don't receive any royalties. I was happy just having a nice set of horns available that would take care of the problem. Here's his website with a direct link to the horns: http://www.aerosportproducts.com/rclinkage.htm Verne Koester [quote]ORIGINAL: cartercg Hi, On the rudder side Wolfgang uses a very traditional rudder horn that puts the connection point close to the rudder hinge line. A question to those that have used this setup (pull pull wheel on the rudder servo and normal rudder horn close to the rudder hinge line), do you get cables slacking and tensioning at the extremes of rudder reflection? I have used the traditional approach (normal rudder servo arm) with the rudder horn on the rudder hinge line with good results. I agree that the servo and rudder horn lengths don't need to be the same. The pull pull wheel should however require smaller rudder wire exit holes in the fuze and less expo on the Tx. I however don't want to go the pull pull wheel route if it results in significant cable slacking/tensioning. Regards Clint [/quote]
Posted on: 1/9/2012 8:23 AM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10899684

RE: Round rudder servo arm
My experience has been that the most critical element for keeping equal cable tension throughout the throw is to have the connection point on the rudder exactly on the hinge line. For me, it doesn't seem to matter if the rudder connection points and the servo horn are the same distance apart (mine rarely are) as long as the connection point on the rudder is exactly on the hinge line. For example, the servo arm holes in play can be 2" apart while the rudder horn connection points are 1 - 7/8" apart. As long as the rudder horn holes are exactly centered on the hinge line, the cable tension will remain the same throughout the throw. Hope this helps. Verne Koester [quote]ORIGINAL: cmoulder In that case, it would be interesting to see the other end of Wolfgang Matt's ''equation''. I suppose the only way to keep the tension the same in a pull-pull with a straight servo arm is if the connection points in the control surface horns were exactly the same distance apart as the servo arm connection points, and that the control horn connection points were lined up perfectly with the rudder hinge line. Which isn't very likely. [/quote]
Posted on: 1/8/2012 10:00 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10899106

RE: Futaba MC 9100A ESC
Does it have fixed endpoints, auto, or both? Thanks, Verne (I have 3 Comp controllers [:)]) [quote]ORIGINAL: JAS Having only been flying Jeti/Hacker Comp 90 ESC's since 05-06 (I think) I've always looked for something that was a direct replacement since they stopped making them. The Spin 99 is the closest to it, but even it isn't as easy to program as the old Comps. Since I'm now down to 2 Comps, it was time I started figuring something out. Over the holiday's I was able to do some flying with the new Futaba MC 9100A ESC. I must say, it's the closest to the Comp as far as performance and ease of programming (with the recommended programmer). The only real difference is the throttle transition seems smoother with the Futaba than the Comp. My plane set-up is as follows: Plane – 2M Osiris (prototype) Motor – [size=3]Fury[/size] [size=3]60/67-230[/size] Prop – APC 21x13W Batt – ThunderPower 5000 45C (my 20C are 3 years old and a bit weak at the end of flights) ESC Settings: Batt type - Lipo Lipo cut - 3V Cut type – Slow Motor Direction - Normal Timing – 24 degrees Acceleration – Normal Start Power - Normal Brake % - 90% Brake – On Poles – 28 Gear Ratio – 1.0 : 1 Temps the days I flew were low to mid 70’s and the ESC was 123F when I took the canopy off to check it. This is with the ESC mounted on top of my batteries with not much air flowing to it. I will need to find a better mounting method than just that lol. I'll probably drop it in the chin for direct airflow to it. [/quote]
Posted on: 1/4/2012 9:16 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10892329

RE: Iota DLS-55 questions
Sorry for the visual you must have conjured up..... [8D] [quote]ORIGINAL: ArchNemesis Verne, I'm working really really hard not to take that out of context.... [/quote]
Posted on: 1/3/2012 2:06 PM by Author "VerneK" in the forum "Electric Pattern Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10889898