RE: Flyzone Albatros
My Albatros transmitter has a range of only 15-18 feet. All batteries test O.K., both in the plane itself as well as in the transmitter. My antenna was folded down (as in so many 2.4 ads), as well as in other orientations, but nothing improved the performance. Any help?
Posted on: 8/16/2011 11:32 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10674025

RE: Best product for removing oil for wood
Jay - Sorry about the double post. I quickly rewrote it when I didn't see it posted. The LAG TIME tricked me up!
Posted on: 3/8/2010 11:18 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9566154

RE: Best product for removing oil for wood
Jay, you might want to check out this posting on [b]removing oil from wood[/b]. I haven't tried it myself, but it's worth a shot. Sounds pretty radical, and you may want to try it on some scrap wood first. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9305546
Posted on: 3/8/2010 11:14 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9566147

RE: Best product for removing oil for wood
Jay - you might want to check out this posting to answer your question on removing oil from wood: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9305546 Seems pretty radical, but I hope this helps,
Posted on: 3/8/2010 11:03 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9566115

RE: bending balsa. grain direction?
[i]>>As the wood is currently dry it is [u][b]easier to bend against the grain[/b] [/u]rather than with it.<<[/i] Afraid NOT! Small test: take a square of sheet balsa (size could be small); slightly dampen one side only; watch the balsa begin to curl all by itself. The results will show the natural tendancy of the wood to curl - ALONG THE GRAIN! [b]Live Wire's [/b] suggestion is good, but if the balsa is removed (dry) from the can or mold, the wood will be as stiff and unbending as when on the original sheet. By dampening the wood on one side only, you can begin to curl it [u]even more[/u] without danger of spliting the wood. The wood (premeasured) can immediately be put in place; the glue-down side will still be dry, or nearly so ....... ideal for gluing. Use CA to tack down the corners only after putting your preferred adhesive elsewhere. Enjoy your new skill!
Posted on: 2/19/2010 3:13 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9518089

RE: Hangar 9 cub landing gear covering
Hi, Jester, Here's what I did on a different Cub: 1.) Make a paper template of the space between the wires. Place a sheet of paper (with cardboard backing) BEHIND the wires, draw the interior of the open space; 2.) Cut out the template slightly oversize. Use the template to mark some balsa to make a filler for the open space. The thickness of the balsa should match the diameter of the wire. Ideally, this filler should be laminated (cross grain) from two layers of balsa to add strength, the resulting filler piece should be slightly oversize. Final fit is made by sanding until you get a good fit. Sand each filler to fit the wire on its side as the wires may be slightly deformed; 3.) Glue the two fillers in place, using CA all around for strength. Sand smooth; 4.) Cover the gear legs with your choice of material, wrapping it around the wire and overlap it slightly. Silkspan is probably the strongest (light weight) covering. It should be sealed, fuelproofed, and painted to match the model. Good luck and enjoy the hobby!
Posted on: 12/13/2009 1:21 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9326272

RE: Pic.Repair Howard DGA-5 IKe
Bonjour, Jean. Il est beau - ton petit zing! On dirait un avion de course des années 30. Dis-moi bonjour à ton pilote, Harold!
Posted on: 5/31/2009 1:18 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8812818

Bent Motor Shaft
I bent the motor shaft on this motor on a nose over: Park 370 Brushless Inrunner Motor, 3600Kv by E-Flite I wasn't able to straighten it by hand. Is there a way to do this? Or, do I need to replace it? I can get a replacement for $19+, BUT, how do I change it out? If there is a retainer clip (C-clip?), what tool is used to remove/replace it?
Posted on: 5/28/2009 2:29 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8805069

RE: Fire proof charging box?
[size=3][/size][b]SR-71[/b] Go to an Army/Navy store and ask to see [u]AMMUNITION BOXES[/u].
Posted on: 4/25/2009 11:40 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8715576

RE: Lawn Dart
[size=2][b]ztdw3etsu [/b][/size], I certainly agree with your decision NOT to repair that sucka! You win the "Crash-of-the-Year" award!
Posted on: 4/22/2009 12:50 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8704103

RE: Hyperion J3 Cub 25e - Scaling it out...!
[size=2] [b]Friday_2006[/b][/size], A word on your landing gear: Trexler pneumatic wheels are very Cub-like. Look for the [u]sizes and price$[/u] on Sig's web site: http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmart.exe/MainMenuFV4.html?E+Sig >Key Word Search >Trexler > Go Find. These are co$tly, but have that authentic Cub look! To see an illustration, go to the manufacturer's site: http://www.trexlerballoonwheel.com/ NOTE: They don't sell them themselves, just through distributors (Great Planes snd Sig). One tiny comment: the retaining screws on the windshield can be painted quite readily - the heads only, of course. I don't know why so many modelers are content to have non-scale looking (stainless steel) screws! [b]Trax540[/b], Your wheels look great! are they Trexler's? Did you make your gear legs scale length or stick with the Hyperion stock ones? Scale length gear legs REALLY give a scale look to this model!
Posted on: 4/7/2009 1:24 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8656741

RE: Hyperion J3 Cub 25e - Scaling it out...!
[size=4]b][u]Friday 2006[/u][/b], It's hard to comment on your Cub project without knowing what size the model is. Here are a couple of early thoughts: 1.) << [i]Its not the same model as mine, but[/i] ......>> The Cub in the 1st photo is somewhat different from the original J3, as the long "greenhouse" looks like a WWll version, and the trailing edge of the rudder is [u]straight[/u] in large part; on the original (civilian) version, the trailing edge was [u]curved[/u], all the way, top to bottom. Do you plan to make these modifications? 2.) <<[i] I think i have a great difficulty on how am i going to do the cowl, as the one i have is painted yellow,[/i] ........ >> I don't know what paint is already on your cowl, but for the most part, cowls can be repainted. Typically, you would sand the existing surface - very lightly - then repaint it in your choice of colors. If the result is not to your satisfaction, sand again and spray with a [u]primer coat[/u] before proceding. Note that some paints must dry for DAYS before recoating! Practice on some other surface first. 3.) <<[i]I want your thoughts about main landing gear[/i], ...... >> Here we need to know the [u]size[/u] of your model. As scale wheels for Cubs are all fairly large, you'll probably need to work out something else. 4.) <<[i]Adding those cables that are going from vertical fin to elevator surface, which i have no idea where i can find them [/i]>> My suggestion is to go to a fabric shop - you know, where a [u][i]modistra[/i][/u] would get her supplies. ([u][i]Katalavenis[/i][/u]? ... Sorry but I can't hack the Greek alphabet!) Look for silver [u]thread[/u], with a noticable "twist" to it. Mine looks just like a metal cable. It's made in Germany. No luck? Try another shop in a large city. Good luck, and let us know how this turns out.
Posted on: 4/5/2009 11:38 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8652787

RE: Float Plane Help on Correct Setup
[b]Cubmaster126[/b], Your mention of "[i]vertical winglets added to the top and bottom of the elevator stab[/i]" would serve the same purpose as my suggesation of sub-rudders which would be located [b]UNDER [/b]the fuselage, (sub = under). Remember, I said IF you have stability problems with floats mounted, you could simply glue it on to the bottom of the fuselage at the aftmost location possible. You might GOOGLE the Japanese "Float Zero", the [b]A6M2-N[/b] with its sub-rudder and then compare this with the ordinary Zero. Don't forget, if you DO add a sub-rudder to see if it DOES make a difference on this particular model, you'll need to trim off some monocote so as to glue directly to wood.
Posted on: 1/15/2009 11:00 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8362348

RE: Float Plane Help on Correct Setup
[b]Cubmaster126[/b], If you find your plane (with floats added) is less stable than before, you might consider adding a sub-rudder just as with full-scale planes. You might want to see my discussion on [b]http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?[/b][b]t=249773&page=2 [/b], (See Post # 19). Also try a Google search on [u]airplane subrudders[/u]. Virg.
Posted on: 1/15/2009 2:49 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8360057

RE: Three Piece Twist
radamansx12, Here's my advice: (It's not complete, but no one can offer that yet.) [size=3][b]Take off the covering![/b] [/size] Only then will you know if parts merely need gluing back (with CA),or if parts need to be removed to serve as templates for making replacements. Caution: don't use CA anywhere the glued seam will be next to the covering! That stuff is just about unsandable without overdoing the surrounding balsa. Use ALIPHETIC GLUE, or simple white glue. This may take a while to dry after you set the parts aside, but, it will be more readily sandable. I like your optimism on this rebuild. Good luck! [size=2][/size]
Posted on: 12/9/2008 1:35 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8227452

RE: reason # 84 why i crashed my plane
Reply to lejongleur: Not surprising that you've had so many crashes! I understand French, and your Member Name tips me that you are a JUGGLER! You should certainly be aware that "What goes up must come down". Were you juggling more than one model in the air at one time? (yuk yuk)
Posted on: 11/7/2008 1:01 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8122841

RE: Cessna 182 Main Wing 50
[b]Rodolfo[/b], Possible bad news on your Cessna: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7748212/tm.htm Also, have you tried contacting Raidentech? supports@raidentech.com Finally, I think that Nitromodels is a part of Raidentech. You might post on this forum: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5747198/anchors_5747198/mpage_1/key_CMP%252CCessna/anchor/tm.htm#5747198 If all else fails, you may be facing a [b]rebuild[/b]. Good luck,
Posted on: 10/18/2008 11:19 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8060400

RE: Cessna 182 Main Wing 50
Rodolfo, it might help if you specify the MANUFACTURER'S name, since there are many kits of this Cessna. Good luck with the remainder of the hurricane season!
Posted on: 10/16/2008 12:51 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8054389

RE: replacement screens and engine
[b]Mungrel Dog[/b], Hi, Mate, Try this URL to talk to Hangar 9: http://www.hangar-9.com/ Virg.
Posted on: 10/4/2008 11:12 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8019406

RE: LANDING GEAR INFO NEEDED
[b]Manofsteel[/b], Have you tried Tower Hobbies? Cick on each listing to find TECH NOTES which give the dimensions. Don't forget - you'll need to order AXLES also. [url]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0096p?&N=N&C=&P=7&S=0000000&F=LXLKJ5&L=DUBQ0971&S1=LANDING&S2=GEAR&S3=&S4=[/url]
Posted on: 9/28/2008 10:37 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8000376

RE: wingtip damage balsa/fiberglass
[b]Kiosk[/b], You did a great job on this repair! I don't think you said what material you used to fill the damaged area. At first, you seemed hesitant about repairing the model. I'll bet you're glad you went ahead with the project!
Posted on: 9/27/2008 3:16 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7995197

RE: broken wing spar advice
Cubfloater, [b]45° Taper[/b][u][/u]: To visualize this: imagine a square; draw a dotted line from the [u]upper left[/u] corner to the [u]lower right[/u]. This dotted line will represent a slant of 45° from top to bottom. This will show what the glue joint will look like between the old spar stub and the new spar section that you are replacing. Then the joint between this replacment piece and the (now tapered) end of the remaining original spar (running outboard toward the wing tip) will look just like the first joint that you made. It's probably best to locate these two joints in the middle of separate rib bays in order to be able to access them readily.[:D] [b]Shear Web[/b][u][/u]: As I understand it, a shear web would be a piece of sheet wood BRIDGING AN UPPER SPAR AND A LOWER ONE. This may be how your spars are configured, or maybe not. If there is [u]no[/u] lower spar in this location, you'll need to DOUBLE the spar material both fore and aft across the entire rib bay. When all is done, check the lateral balance again, since the added material at the repair may cause a weight bias on that side. Good luck, [:D]
Posted on: 9/24/2008 2:45 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7985322

RE: ultacoat covering
Rye, is that CUB yellow?
Posted on: 9/24/2008 1:42 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7985261

RE: repairing my meister mustang need a tip
Hi, Danny, You asked about a filler that would be hard, but not crumble. I think the answer is EPOXY AND MICRO BALLONS. I personnaly have no experience with this .... the problem would be the near impossibility of sanding the filled area after the epoxy has cured. I imagine that this filler needs to be smoothed with a [u]wet finger[/u] before it hardens. To give yourself [u]ample time[/u] for this and any other precautions and cleanup needed, use SLOW CURING epoxy, like maybe a 30-minute formula. Since (isopropyl or rubbing) alcohol is commonly used to THIN epoxy, this must be the stuff you'll need for your "wet fingering". Let's hope that others will join in and critique the foregoing hints. Good luck. That was a nice looking model as shown in your 4th thumbnail.
Posted on: 9/21/2008 10:32 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7977529

RE: wingtip damage balsa/fiberglass
Kiosk, your first step would be to cut back the wingtip to a spot where you can make a SMOOTH surface for attaching a repair. Don't try to just add filler and sand IT to shape. This would not likely be satisfactory. The cutback could be made [b]at any angle[/b][u][/u] in order to: a.) save as much of the original structure as possible, and, b.) provide straight edges to attach the repair material. Preparing the material would then be practical. The material could be a balsa block glued on, carved and sanded to shape, then glassed over. Foam could also be used and finished in a similar fashion. You'd need to verify that you retain LATERAL BALANCE, since you'll probably end up with a different weight in the repaired area. Feel lucky that the damage is confined only to the wing tip and not to ailerons or landing gear, for example. I hope that others will provide useful hints.
Posted on: 9/16/2008 3:33 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7948921

Charger Puzzle
My 600 mAh [u]NiCD [/u]was dying in my basic, old Airtronics TX. I "upgraded" to a 1500 mAh [u]NiMH[/u]. I repinned the connector to the [u]old Airtronics [/u]config. I decided to charge it [u]in the TX[/u] using the AC charger/adaptor that came with the original TX (vintage 1996). The little charge level indicator on the TX showed that the new battery never got past an indicated 1/2 charge, even after 24 hours! What's the problem? Is the charger programmed to look for the original 600 mAh level and then STOP CHARGING? Any other explanations?
Posted on: 7/13/2007 2:13 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6105087

RE: Dummy Radial engine
[b]RS-cap[/b] I'm not sure what dia. engine you need for a 1/4 scale Sopwith Pup, but you might want to check out DARE HOBBY's offering of WW1 ROTARY engines. Their kit makes any (one) of three different dummy engines. They added this kit along with some RADIAL dummies and overlooked the fact that WW1 engines were NOT RADIALS at all, but were ROTARIES that rotated with the prop! Terry, of Dare Hobby said that the webmaster will make this correction, but hasn't done so (about 2-weeks already). These make up into 3 3/4" - 4" engines depending on the add-ons to match the appropriate engine. You could mount it BETWEEN THE MOTOR AND THE PROP so it will spin like the full-scale! Here's the site: [url]http://www.darehobby.com/images/accessories/wwiradialengines.jpg[/url]
Posted on: 5/21/2007 3:22 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5880878

RE: RCU contact info
To those who "CAREFULLY MONITOR POSTS" ......................(from RCU Policies): Looks like some emphasis needs to be made on EDITING in the MAGAZINE area of RCU! Consider this title of a recent article: [size=3]<<Hangar 9 Showtime 50 with [u]a E-flite[/u] Power 60>> To appreciate the full beauty of this thought, read it aloud! It'll sound like someone with a speech impediment, "uh...EEEE". Looks as if viewing [u]the Simpsons[/u] may have damaged our ability to use our own language! .... (DOH!!)
Posted on: 3/22/2007 1:02 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "RC Giant Scale Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5598905

RE: left right reversed on F-27B
GALOGNU, [QUOTE]As far as aerodynamics, I am well aware of the theories. Depends on if you adhere to the fact that [B]as the aileron goes up you are deflecting air, therefore pushing the wing up[/B], or creating negative pressure on the surface, thus also raising the wing.[/QUOTE] NO, NO, NO!.........ONE MORE TIME: If an aileron (or elevon) is deflecting air UPWARD, the aileron/elevon (and the wing panel it's attached to) are both pushed DOWNWARD, reacting to the increased pressure ON TOP ! You'll remember the PHYSICAL LAW which deals with equal and OPPOSITE reactions! When you see the LEFT aileron/elevon go UP, the wing panel will go DOWN...... the OPPOSITE reaction!
Posted on: 11/26/2006 12:54 AM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5039592

RE: left right reversed on F-27B
GALOGNU, you do NOT need to consult with your LHS, you only need to recognize that when the left aileron GOES UP. it's "catching air" at the top of the left wing panel. This brings about INCREASED PRESSURE on the upper surface of the left side, forcing the left wing panel DOWN! Conversely, the right aileron goes down, with increased air pressure building UNDER the right wing panel, forcing the right side UP! Thus you will obtain a left bank, a major part of making a left turn. The first paragraph above is NOT the ideal explanation. Aeronautical engineers would find this lacking, BUT, as incomplete as this is, it will work for your needs at this stage. There are other factors affecting the making of good, safe turns, BUT, you need to absorb the info above as the basic STARTER.
Posted on: 11/23/2006 10:34 PM by Author "Virg." in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5032261