MOVED: Twin-Ring Ryobi Bench Test Results
Engine Conversions: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=671856
Posted on: 2/1/2007 8:01 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5357961

RE: Lock
[quote]ORIGINAL: Iflyit Maybe I should start a thread on this but what does everyone use to tow their trailer? I am a car dealer and can try them before I buy them for myself and cant decide on what to get. I don't like pickup truck so they are out. I tried a 1997 Blazer with a 4.3 vortec 6 cyl. but it did not have the power I would like as most of the time it was floored to get up hills and only got around 12-13mpg which a V8 would get probably. I am towing a 6x12 and am thinking about a ford Explorer or Mercury Mountaineer with a V8. What do you use? [/quote] Small engines working too hard often get worse mileage than larger engines. If you get an Explorer get the V-8, and put an auxilliary transmission cooler on it if it doesn't have the towing package already. I tow with a Dodge RAM 2500 with a 5.9L Cummins turbodiesel. Mine has a six-speed manual, gets 22-23 mpg empty, and 19-20 mpg pulling my 6x10 6.5-ft headroom Horton Hauler. It will pull the airplane trailer up any grade at any speed and pretty much not know it's there. I also have a 2000 Explorer with the 4.0L V-6. It will pull the Horton OK on the flats, but is not particularly happy going up grades, mostly due to the high profile of the trailer.
Posted on: 5/7/2006 5:39 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4250974

RE: 31 cc for $59.99
stewartnr, If your side-carb/side exhaust engines have fins on both sides of the flywheel and have 5-bolt rear covers they are probably 28cc McCullochs, possibly 32cc. Unfortunately, MAC went out of business, and I haven't seen this engine in any other brands.
Posted on: 4/18/2006 5:33 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4181241

RE: Featherlite versions
[quote]ORIGINAL: aero nut Try replacing the crankshaft of the 19cc in place of the 25 CC (long one) they interchange easily. That way you can still use the crankcase of the 25 with its own jug and piston!!! [/quote] Excellent thought, and I actually considered this, but I've already got the 19cc cases ready to fly and I'm tired of being covered with aluminum dust! Also, this particular 25cc case is quite different -- It has a solid (unvented) fan shroud that's continuously cast arond the case. Its also got a cast aluminum back cover. They used the cast cover (it has two mounting lugs on it) as the rear mount of the engine in the plastic clamshell housing. FYI, the blower this came out of -- although a Weedeater brand -- was not labeled as a featherlite model. Before getting the plastic clamshell peeled open I expected to find one of their wierd-configuration reed-valve motors that aren't much use for planes. I was surprised to find this featherlite variant lurking inside.
Posted on: 4/14/2006 10:20 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4166511

RE: 31 cc for $59.99
medic976, These are rear carb rear exhaust 31cc -- that makes them Ryobi. They are Yard Machines, owned by MTD, which owns the Ryobi license for trimmers. If these are the newer models, they will have a fan shroud that's integrally cast onto the crankcase, unlike the earlier models that were bolted on and easy to remove. You can still convert these, but it will take some sawing/grinding or milling to get them pared down. If these are recent models they will also probably be twin-ring units (good) but may have a single-needle carb (bad). But why pay 59.99? I just checked HF and the ones shown below were $49.99. Go buy!!! http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=55008 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=51584
Posted on: 4/14/2006 9:43 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4166356

Featherlite versions
I've now torn down a dozen or so Poulan/Weedeater featherlite engines for conversion (please, save your comments on their low performance! -- you can check my posts from several years ago discussing their porting limitations, and they do actually work quite well on slow floaters like Telemasters and such). (Besides, these things just keep appearing at my house and showing up in my truck bed now that my friends know what I do with wayward weedies! [:D]) All of mine are 19cc or 25cc engines. As a mechanical engineer, I am surprised at the many subtle differences in the design of the crankcase castings (and I'm only talking of the 4-screw backplate models here, not the latest 2-screw backs). I don't know if this was just evolutionary design as the bean-counters forced the engineers to squeeze more $ out, or if there were real design issues. All crankcases seem to interchange with all of the trimmer plastic parts from the other trimmers. All cases also seem to align well with the two-transfer port jugs as well as the 4-port ones. Given that it's not cheap to machine pressure-casting casting molds, I'm curious why so many variations to accomplish the same basic function. Have any of you who have messed with the featherlites noticed this? I first noticed it as I was grinding a case down, and realized it was going much slower than the engine I had done a few months earlier. The main difference was in how the fan shroud was attached to the outside tubular bosses where the back cover screws go in, although there were other changes made on the coil mount and upper crankcase also. Have any of you put a 25cc jug on a 19cc case and run it? The bolt pattern is the same, although the flow into the transfer ports may be blocked somewhat on the smaller case if it's not opened up some. I'm going to give it a try, although there may be vibration issues due to counter-weight differences -- haven't checked the counterweights yet. The reason I'm doing this is I was given a 25cc weedeater blower that was almost new, but it has a very long shaft on it (like 6", vs around 4" on my Featherlite blower) that is not very suitable for mounting a prop driver since the shaft has a flat down most of its length. So, I'm going to rob the 25cc jug and piston and use the 19cc case. This particular engine I am going to try on the gas/glow blend with glow plug. If you haven't read the "gas fuel with glo plug no ignition" thread you should. These guys are to be commended for having done some fantastic experimentation.
Posted on: 4/14/2006 5:16 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4165536

RE: Redmax trimmer engine question
flyjoe540, Check out this thread for 2-barrel carb info. Basically the 2 bbl is an emissions-reducing scheme where clean (pre-gas) intake air is used for the inital scavenging flow and then the fuel-laden air from the other barrel is inducted into the cylinder. Somewhere in this thread there is a graphic of the flow. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3177293/tm.htm
Posted on: 4/6/2006 12:09 AM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4130287

RE: Redmax trimmer engine question
The Redmax trimmers have Zenoah engines. The engine on the small models is a G23/26 variant with fan shroud. You don't have to go to a high-dollar triimer to get a full-crank (bearings both ends) though. There are some $100 and under options out there now from Ryobi and others.
Posted on: 4/5/2006 3:20 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4128270

Ryobi full-crank 25cc at Cummins Tools
Just received my 25cc side carb/side exhaust Ryobi from Cummins tools for $59. It's a full-crank Kioritz-style engine. It has the 2-barrel carb as described in the "Who is coverting Toro trimmers?" thread. I suspect that it is the same engine, since I think I heard that MTD now owns both Toro and Ryobi. I'll strip it down this weekend and post some pics. Meanwhile, here's the Cummins link: http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,1500.htm
Posted on: 4/5/2006 12:36 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4127774

RE: gas fuel with glo plug no ignition
AV8TOR, Nice looking Fokker! What was the final fuel blend you ended up with for you flights? I'm really looking forward to trying gas/glow on one of my 21cc Echos. I ordered one of the glow plug adapters fron Horizon, and it's very nicely machined. I agree, at ten bucks I'm not going to bother machining any myself. One thing that I'm curious about with gas/glow is what air temp folks have flown in with success. Put another way, I wonder if we will have pre-ignition problems when it gets 100 degrees out this summer.
Posted on: 3/2/2006 4:12 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3982222

Echo/Kioritz 21cc magneto mount
I've seen numerous RCU photos of 21cc Echos on electronic ignition, and many appear to have the two bosses for the magneto cast onto the cylinder. On my two engines the mag mounts to bosses cast into the flywheel housing. Anyone know if this is an old/new thing, or do they curently come both ways depending on application. Does anyone have a picture they could post on how they trimmed the housing to retain the mag mount? Thanks!
Posted on: 2/23/2006 2:49 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3949942

RE: Which servo?
Mike, Now that I've got my US 120 ready to fly, I'm reading a lot of posts about HS635's failing due to lost teeth, and that they are now not recommended by Hitec for gas. Despite your earlier recommendation, has this servo really proved itself as suitable for 1.20 size planes? I bought these for the US 1.20, but am now concerned about using them. I am curious as to what Karbonite really is. I suspect that it is some type of filled resin, either with glass fibers or synthethic fibers. Presumably the primary design goal was improved surface wear resistance over nylon, but it would now appear that such a composite is far more subject to vibration/shock loading with subsequent brittle failure, and does not have the ductility and toughness of nylon. What was the advertised 4x strength improvement over nylon based on? Did it consider shock loading? I wish you guys would bring back the 605's. They were regarded as pretty bulletproof, and as I recall had thick gears as compared to the 635's. A friend of mine just lost teeth on two 635's during one flight yesterday on his GP big stick with G-26. Fortunately, he was able to get it down in one piece. I think that many of us would feel more comfortable flying the 635's if they had nylon gearsets -- much better to have the gears go sloppy slowly than to shed teeth and fail suddenly. Has Hitec considered offering a nylon gear set to help solve the Karbonite failure issues? Thanks.
Posted on: 2/22/2006 1:05 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3945061

RE: everyone put in 5 words to make story
who gives Cheney a discount
Posted on: 2/18/2006 6:56 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Off Topic Forum - Cars, Trucks, Buggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3928575

RE: Do you wear eye protection??
I guess it depends on how many spare eyeballs you have. I operate on the premise that flying RC when blind or even with monocular vision is probably not nearly as fun. Since getting hit in the eye is something I can do something about, I ALWAYS wear safety glasses around my models and when working with machine tools in my shop. Each to his own, but I'd rather not become blind.
Posted on: 2/18/2006 6:52 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Electric RC Helis"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3928564

RE: Reusable Epoxy tool
I use a box of popsicle sticks. Once used I dunk them permanently in the garbage can and then get a new one from the box next time...[:D]
Posted on: 2/18/2006 6:44 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3928549

RE: Ryobi woes
[quote]ORIGINAL: RCIGN1 The end of the crank on a Ryobi is only sticking out about 3/4" from the bearing...Almost impossible to bend something that short...[/quote] In his original post Mike said one of his Ryobis was a longshaft (4 inches +/- as I recall). If it had been dropped I would think that bending might have been possible on the longshaft engine. [:o]
Posted on: 2/18/2006 6:33 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3928524

RE: engine cleaning
I use a crockpot of ethylene glycol antifreeze. Pull the muffler, glowplug, backplate, and remove any plastic parts and drop it in overnight. Baked-on varnish comes off like magic. The next morning, I flush it thoroughly under hot water from the faucett and wash it with dish soap, turning the crank over several times. I then rinse again under hot water, turning the crank now and then to get all soap out. Then I put it in the oven at the lowest setting (mine is 175F) for 30 minutes or so to bake out the water (take any plastic parts off before baking). Then I let it cool, liberally oil the innards with ATF, and reassemble. Others may be scared of having their bearings immersed in water, but if you go quickly from the final flush to the oven you will have no problem. I have cleaned dozens of engines this way, after finding no other effective ways (solvents, oven-cleaner, alcohol soak, degreasers, etc) to cut the crud from the outside. WARNING!!! WARNING!!! WARNING!!!: 1) CRITTERS LOVE THE TASTE OF ANTIFREZE AND IT IS DEADLY TO THEM. IF YOU LOVE YOUR CATS AND DOGS KEEP THE CROCKPOT AWAY FROM THEM. 2) DON'T USE THE CROCKPOT AGAIN FOR FOOD! For smaller engines I use a small coffeemaker so I don't have to use as much antifreeze.
Posted on: 2/17/2006 5:37 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3924387

RE: Ryobi woes
If someone machined the fins off of the flywheel using a milling machine with the flywheel backside against the table, the machined surface of the fins may not be perpendicular to the shaft due to the casting irregularitues on the backside of the flywhel. I rough the fins off on the mill, and then mount the flywheel on a sawed-off crankshaft and chuck it in the lathe. I do it this way because I have a very small lathe (7 x 12). If I had a bigger lathe I'd do it all on it. All weedie tapers for the Phelon and Walbro flywheels seem to be the same, so finding a crank donor that works is pretty easy. That said, if you've really got several mm of runout then you've got other problems....
Posted on: 2/16/2006 6:30 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3920320

Echo/Kioritz Coil Question
Hi folks, I just received an older Echo GT-200 BE trimmer to convert, with a Kioritz SRM-2000 (21.2 cc) engine. Its got two coils. One is in the shroud like a normal coil (with the iron poles near the flywheel magnets) and has two regular wires exiting (a red one to a second smaller coil, and a ground wire.) The second smaller coil, which is located outside of the shroud on the bottom of the case is the one that has the high-tension lead to the sparkplug. My question is how does this dual coil setup work, and is the position of the smaller coil relative to the flywheel critical? It seems so far away already that any magnetic trigger from the flywheel would be of very low strength. Also, I've never tried the 2:1 gasoline/glow fuel mix (running a glowplug) that I've read some of you are doing. Thinking about trying that with this engine and ditching the flywheel and coils. Has this gas/glow mix really worked out OK as far as overall performance goes, i.e. not just good top end but also a good transition and reliable idle? Thanks.
Posted on: 2/16/2006 5:17 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3920042

RE: Hangar 9 Twist 3D
[quote]ORIGINAL: Jack211 Yet, as an old English teacher, I'm PROUD of you guys for using your dictionaries. I wasn't sure anyone did that anymore. Jack [/quote] Well, at least now we know that you're not a thaumaturgist. Of couse we use our dictionaries! That's where I learned it's best to try to stay gruntled at all times! [:D]
Posted on: 2/8/2006 5:04 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3886014

O.S. 61 SF vs. SF long stroke
I just got a mint O.S. 61 SF. It is an ABC engine. Can any of you tell me how to tell if it is the regular 61 SF or the long-stroke SF? Mine measures 2-15/16 inches from the top of the mounting lug to the top of the head. Are there any distinguishing features between the two engines? Thanks.
Posted on: 1/26/2006 10:41 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3829971

RE: Batery Capacity of a Slow Stick 300 Motor
Matt Smith, I definitely don't type fast, so it must be that great minds think alike! [:D]
Posted on: 3/31/2005 9:30 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2829114

RE: What engine makes the lightest conversion?
My Featherlite 25 conversion weighs 3 lbs without muffler. Small exhaust ports limit breathing, though. Do an RCU search on Featherlite to see my port photos.
Posted on: 3/30/2005 11:06 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2825608

RE: Batery Capacity of a Slow Stick 300 Motor
connolly: Your 8 cells are in series, so your pack is 8 cells x 1.2 volts = 9.6 volts at 1100 milliamp-hour capacity. Cells in series will deliver only the maH of a single cell. If your cells were wired in parallel, you would have a 1.2 volt 8800 mah pack, which wouldn't be useful for RC flight due to low voltage. You can fry a motor with too much voltage, but not with too much capacity. Of course, if your battery has WAY TOO much capacity, your plane will fly poorly, or even be too heavy to get off the ground...[:(]
Posted on: 3/30/2005 10:55 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2825555

RE: Best Slow Stick prop
Go to a 3-cell lipo with 11-4.7 prop. Works great.
Posted on: 3/1/2005 9:19 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Brushed/Brushless motors, speed controls, gear drives"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2716286

RE: Advise me a Fast , 40 size low wing ARF
My Kaos ARF really scoots with a Magnum XLS 52 (unlimited vertical even with a 10-7 APC) but it's still not in the same speed league as a Q-500 plane. The Kaos has a pretty fat wing and is draggy compared to any thin wing Q-500 such as a Sonic, Predator, or Viper. But as Fubar-one said, it flies like it's on rails. I had an O.S. 46FX on it initially, but the XLS-52 has WAAAAY mor power, although the idle and transition is still a little cobby.
Posted on: 9/11/2004 10:56 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2166377

RE: COLD BASEMENT
The oil-filled electric radiators maintain a nice even temp, as the thermal inertia of the oil evens out the on/off electrical cycle. BUT, my favorite portable is an original Pelonis disk furnace (ceramic) that is totally throttlable. Instead of a thermostat, it has a pot that adjusts the fan speed. When the fan is just ticking over, it is only putting out a few hundred watts so it doesn't blast you out with full on/full off cycles like most heaters. I'm not sure if they still make one like this, but I love mine.
Posted on: 9/3/2004 12:39 AM by Author "Volture" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2142631

RE: Best flying ARF under $110?
Tower Hobbies Kaos 40 at $95. Great flyer, no bad habits.
Posted on: 7/7/2004 7:10 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1969661

RE: Rich or Lean
Macadam is pretty much like Bill said. It's asphalt with an aggregate mixed in.
Posted on: 7/1/2004 6:58 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1953269

RE: Rich or Lean
I'm 45 minutes away from Hickory Hollow mall heading east on I-24. Our club is the Coffee Airfoilers, and our field is in Tullahoma, 15 miles away. I'm the club president -- Welcome to Tennessee and come fly with us sometime! Here's our website: www.cafes.net/herb - Craig Logan
Posted on: 6/30/2004 11:00 PM by Author "Volture" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=1950909