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RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Had a great outing at our clubs annual open house air show, putting on a wirbird demo for the crowd. Got some nice pictures so I figured I would share them. Plenty more on our club website http://www.michigansignalseekers.org/
Posted on: 7/14/2012 8:34 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11154161
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: N1EDM Thanks, Warwix, My Spit had a little landing accident so while I was in the process of repairing I decided to modify the stock LG and put in the 3/16" struts. It has a JR landing gear servo already. I haven't seen any posts on modifying the LG wheel wells. If you happen to have any links, I'd be happy to get them but don't go to any trouble - only
Posted on: 7/14/2012 3:21 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155298
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
[quote]ORIGINAL: N1EDM Has anyone modified the landing gear on this plane with Robart Robo Struts? Thanks, Bob [/quote] Yep, myself and others have done just that. Many have gone ahead and swapped out both the stock retract mechanical mechanism along with the stock struts. I decided to stay with the stock mechanical retracts and modify them to accept 3/16" music wire and then used the Robart 3/8" straight robostrut (part 650). To keep the weight gain to a minimum, I kept the stock foam wheels as well which has allowed me to continue the use of my retract servo without any issues as of this date. If you do decide to upgrade to the robostruts, be ready to also modify the stock wheel wells as they won't allow the new struts to retract flush into the wing. There are multiple posts as well as pictures if you look back through this thread, but the bottom line is that anyone that decided to upgrade the struts has gained a great deal of reliability in the planes ability to taxi, take off and land.
Posted on: 7/14/2012 2:15 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11155222
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Thanks all for the kind words and advice. Maverick - I put the velocity stacks on my Saitos after reading the reports on the forums that they tend to gather the fuel more efficiently off of the spray bar. I don't think I will ever get around to testing if they do in fact work, but I still think they look cool on there, haha. I have had no issues so far with the 90 degree adaptor. I use RTV high temp silicone on all my muffler installations to keep them tight and dry for the length of the engine with very good results. I remember reading about your adapter shearing off but I decided to take the risk and hope for the best. Saito engines really thrive on a high nitro content. There is actually a quote from a Horizon Hobby employee that says their pilots have seen the best results using 30% heli fuel, giving the most reliable idle and the best WoT rpms. While I have always wanted to run 30% nitro, price has always brought me back to earth and I end up using 15 to 20%. But while at the Toledo show this year, I took a chance and bought a couple gallons of 25% nitro/20% oil from Rich's Brew and I have gotta say that is just runs like crazy. High nitro content, and I really like the oil blend that they offer as I don't care for straight synthetic. But at only $18 a gallon (possibly a deal for the show) I had to go for it and I'm glad I did. Mix up some higher nitro fuel and give it a whirl. Saitos don't sip the stuff, but they really really like it! ForcesR & Lifer - Thanks for the heads up on the retract servo and I will keep a watchful eye on it even thought it has never shown any signs of struggle so far. Hopefully the stock foam wheels that I am still using have kept the weight down enough to be usable. My H9 Mustang that is a year older but with many more flights on it is still using the 75BB without a hitch, even thought it is using the complete stock retracts setup, but it is food for thought. On the topic of retract servos, I have been keeping my eye out for some first hand info on the Spektrum A7000. While it boasts a higher torque rating, the part that really got my attention was the fact that it is a proportional retract servo that can utilize end point adjustment using a computer radio as well as use the servo slow function adding more realism to the rather clunky mechanical retracts. I started a thread on RCU a couple months ago with mixed results so I am hoping to hear more soon. Wingco- I actually have 2 cracked canopies for the Spit (Horizon Hobby is the best at replacing damaged or warantee parts) that I was going to experiment with about lowering the canopy. I have to agree that the second picture definitely give a better look than the stock version. My only dilemma is that I like using button head screws in areas that I might want to access again (canopy/retracts) so I may have already put too many holes in spots that won't get covered up by a shortened cowl. But thanks for the tip! Pictures of my H9 Warbirds (Mustang is a 60 size "Marie" bash) and the only current picture of the Spit in action.
Posted on: 4/26/2012 2:15 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11058004
RE: H9 Spitfire Build
Hey all, I've been wanting to post about my Spit for a while now, so I finally took a camera to the field today and snapped some pictures to share. I always like to make changes to the cookie cutter ARF to make them stand out in the crowd, especially when it comes to warbirds. With this Spitfire, I sought out a full scale replica and did my best to follow the layout and trim scheme as best I could without altering the airframe. In the end, I am very pleased with the final result and she looks gorgeous in the air. Some of the cosmetic changes include: Updated cowl from Hangar 9 Removal of the yellow on the leading edge of the wings (from the research I did, I found that they only started doing that on Mk IV and later) Removed the stock fuselage lettering for a more scale version in both size and location (new lettering is just ultracote) Added gun ports in each wing Added nomenclature around the plane in different areas Minor weathering, mainly in the gun and exhaust area as well as a light paint chip effect. (my first weathering and airbrush attempt) Entire airframe was covered in 3 coats of Lustercote Flat Clear paint to seal in all the detail and kill the stock shine. Under the cowl is a Saito 100 using a 90 degree muffler adapter that did a very good job of keeping it hidden. Taken from posts in this thread, I added the vent at the bottom back side of the cowl as well as opened up the dummy exhaust stacks for more air flow. As with my other Saitos, I put a velocity stack on the carb to assist fuel consumption. An Electrodynamics on-board glow system is utilized on a switch setup to keep things easy and clean. I am currently using Rich's Brew 25% nitro/20% oil (5%castor/15%synthetic blend) that I picked up at Toledo this year and I am extremely impressed with the performance (and price, only $18 a gallon!). Last I checked I was topping out at 9500 rpm (9300 flying rich) on a 14x7x3 MAS prop held in place by a Tru-Turn 3.5" P-51 style spinner. In typical Hangar 9 fashion, their airframes are great but their hardware package is almost throw away. I decided to upgraded the fuel tank to a 20oz Dubro tank with a fuel dot, as well as upgrading the rudder and elevator pushrods to 4-40 and ball links for better control. I still plan on upgrading the aileron linkages later this season, but currently they are the stock 2-56 size. The last big upgrade went into replacing the horrible stock music wire that is used for the landing gear. After a few heavy landings last season, they bent to the point that there were not even worth bending back. I decided to upgrade to Robart robostruts, using the stock tires and stock retracts utilizing a Hitec 75BB retract servo. The end result is a much smoother taxi, takeoff, and landing and I am very happy that I invested in them. The brains of the operation is a Hitec Optima 7 Rx and Aurora 9 Tx which I have absolutely fallen in love with after upgrading from Spektrum around this time last year. Like others have mentioned in this thread, I did run into many of the same issues associated with this airframe. I glassed and reinforced the firewall before it could give me any issues. My final CG was right around 4 7/8" from the leading edge, using only the Rx battery as the counter weight. I also used washers to shim the back side of the retract to rake the gear forward making taxing much easier. All in all, I haven't had many hours with this plane yet, but after being out of commission multiple times last year, the few times I have flown her this season has really gotten me excited for the weather to break. I will hopefully have some pics/vids of her in action in the near future.
Posted on: 4/25/2012 7:23 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11056503
RE: Spitfire Brotherhood (All Spitfires Welcome)
My fellow brothers, Finally snapped a few pics of my Hangar 9 Mk II Spitfire. I did a bit of bashing to it to bring a bit more realism to it and I am pretty happy with the results. If you are interested in some of the work that I did, I posted a detailed list here.
Posted on: 4/25/2012 1:32 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11056509
RE: Spektrum A7000 retract servo
I'd love to see some video of the servo in action if any of you guys have the chance, especially in a 60 size bird.
Posted on: 2/6/2012 8:56 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10947469
RE: Spektrum A7000 retract servo
Thanks again for the input HK, but I do know guys that run the Hitec 75BB in the same 60 sized Hangar 9 Corsair and Hellcat without any problems. Either way, it looks like the A7000 is worth a look.
Posted on: 2/3/2012 9:51 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10942875
RE: Spektrum A7000 retract servo
HK, You say the Hitec 75BB only gets the job done 60% on a hangar 9 mechanical retract setup? On both of my planes (Spitfire and Mustang) I have had no issues at all with the Hitec servo getting the job done, and that is after upgrading to robostruts while using the stock mechanical retracts. If the Spektrum servo can outperfom what I already have, I welcome the abiltiy to set it up easier and slow it down. I might have to start putting a few bucks aside.
Posted on: 2/3/2012 8:45 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10942815
RE: Club/Field with multi hobbies.
Thanks for the feedback. Our club has always had a control line circle incorperated in our field and it is something we pride ourselves on still having that most other clubs don't offer. This year we will again be holding our annual control line contest that has been going on longer that many of us can remember. As far as the cars and trucks go, our tentative placement of the dirt track is going to be about 200 yards away from the flight line of the airstrip. I'm sure they will still be able to be heard, but we don't think that the sound will be an issue. Luckily we already have some car guys in our club that are willing to start the groundwork for the track and spread the idea around to local offroad guys. Interest has been shown from some of their friends due to the fact that the few local tracks in the area are now starting to get limited by the noise, allowing electrics only. If we continue to persue this avenue for new members, I will update this thread with anything that goes on. Please continue to send any thoughts or feedback on the subject as it is what I came here for. Matt Signal Seekers RC Club of Michigan
Posted on: 2/2/2012 8:44 AM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10940167
RE: Spektrum A7000 retract servo
Thanks for the first hand experience HK. I would be swaping out the Hitec 75BB that I currently have in both my 60 size Hangar 9 warbirds that supposedly only has 114oz of torque at 6.0 volts. That being said, the 240oz of torque in the Spektrum servo should be more than enough, but your comments make be a bit concerned. Hopefully someone else has had some better luck out there that can chime in.
Posted on: 2/1/2012 7:19 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10939462
Spektrum A7000 retract servo
The new Spektrum A7000 retract servo claims to offer programable endpoints as well as the capability to slow the servo down using the Tx to mimic scale retract operation. I have been hoping to find some kind of review on forums but I have not had any luck. Is there anyone out there with any experience with this servo?
Posted on: 2/1/2012 12:24 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10938804
Club/Field with multi hobbies.
Hey all. Just wanted to toss out a quick question to the members on the forums to see if any AMA clubs out there offer more than just flying at their fields. Our club is currently in a repopulating stage and in the brainstorming process of how to boost our member base an idea was brought up to possibly add an area for rc off road cars and trucks. The land we have for our field has the capability to not only host such a track but it would not be in any way encroaching on the current flying field or our control line circle. Besides the work needed to put this track in place, are there any restrictions or problems that come to mind when adding another facet to a current flying only field (i.e. AMA restrictions, radio interference, ect.) Any help or input on the subject would be greatly appreciated.
Posted on: 2/1/2012 12:18 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10938795
RE: Hangar 9 P-51 .60 Slimline Muffler Issue
Thanks again for all the input guys. As a newbie to all of this it is really helpful to know i am making moves in the right direction. A test fitting with the engine moved all the way forward in the supplied hangar 9 mounts allows the entire muffler to clear, but it looks as if I might have to trim a bit out of the bottom of the fuse where the downpipes exit the muffler. Luckily, I had already reinforced the inside of the firewall, so there should be plenty of material supporting any that i take away. I'll post pictures soon for any further questions into the topic.
Posted on: 1/26/2010 6:08 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9450574
RE: Hangar 9 P-51 .60 Slimline Muffler Issue
The cowel appears to overlap the fuse about 1", so if i can move the engine up by .5" I should still be able to maintain the minimal gap at the cowel and the spinner back plate.
Posted on: 1/26/2010 3:47 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9450212
RE: Hangar 9 P-51 .60 Slimline Muffler Issue
Ty so much for the help. Can't wait for the weather to break and get the season started. =)
Posted on: 1/26/2010 2:59 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9450085
RE: Hangar 9 P-51 .60 Slimline Muffler Issue
Thanks for the reply, but just so I am clear. Are you saying I would be ok moving the motor forward to accomidate the muffler, or I would be good to modify the firewall?
Posted on: 1/26/2010 1:24 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9449797
RE: Hangar 9 P-51 .60 Slimline Muffler Issue
Using the stock muffler is definitely an option, but I'm leaving it as a last resort if I can not make the slimline work. IMO, having the stock muffler out in the open really takes away from the scale look of the plane. I know I know, if i was that worried about the scale look of the plane, why didn't I get the kaleco muffler. Honestly, its because i got a good deal on the slimline and I was planning on selling the stock muffler to make up some of the costs. As costly as this hobby has already shown itself to be, I just couldn't justify putting down the money on the Kaleco muffler for my first Nitro plane, especially in a .60 size ARF. There is plenty of winter weather left and if the process is at all reasonable to make the Slimline work I will be shooting for that, but thank you for the input.
Posted on: 1/26/2010 11:56 AM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9449562
Hangar 9 P-51 .60 Slimline Muffler Issue
I'm looking for some answers as to the best way to mount a Slimline Inverted Pitts style muffler onto a Saito 100 in my Hangar 9 P-51 Marie. This is my first RC build so I am new to the ideas and concepts with aeromodeling, but I am a carperter by trade so I don't shy away from tackling a more challenging task when needed. That being said, I have read online both in this forum and others, that putting a Slimline muffler on a Saito 100 in this plane is possible. What I have not found was by what method it was achieved. Currently, with the engine sitting 5.25" from the firewall per the manuals instructions, the muffler will not fit between the firewall and the engine. The first thought that crossed my mind was to move the engine forward to accomidate the muffler, but by doing so I believe that would throw off the center line positioning of the motor, resulting in improper flight. Another option I thought about was to leave the muffler on an angle and have most if not all of it outside of the cowel. This would help with cooling, but the idea of the muffler was to provide as clean a look as possible and that would result in the opposite result. My final conclusion is to do some removal and reconstruction of the firewall to allow the muffler to sit correctly behind the engine and remain as hidden in the cowel as possible. My rough estimates have about a 0.5" of material taken back from the firewall, and about an 1" down from the bottom of the fuse to accomidate the muffler. The big question is which method is the way to go, and if it is the route of removing structure from the plane and re-building some of the firewall, what kind of lenghts should I go to make sure the plane holds up. If there is anyone with any suggestions or even better, someone that has done it or can find pictures of this setup, it would be greatly apprectiated.
Posted on: 1/26/2010 10:46 AM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9449401
Hangar 9 P-51 .60 Slimline Muffler Issue
I'm looking for some answers as to the best way to mount a Slimline Inverted Pitts style muffler onto a Saito 100 in my Hangar 9 P-51 Marie. This is my first RC build so I am new to the ideas and concepts with aeromodeling, but I am a carperter by trade so I don't shy away from tackling a more challenging task when needed. That being said, I have read online both in this forum and others, that putting a Slimline muffler on a Saito 100 in this plane is possible. What I have not found was by what method it was achieved. Currently, with the engine sitting 5.25" from the firewall per the manuals instructions, the muffler will not fit between the firewall and the engine. The first thought that crossed my mind was to move the engine forward to accomidate the muffler, but by doing so I believe that would throw off the center line positioning of the motor, resulting in improper flight. Another option I thought about was to leave the muffler on an angle and have most if not all of it outside of the cowel. This would help with cooling, but the idea of the muffler was to provide as clean a look as possible and that would result in the opposite result. My final conclusion is to do some removal and reconstruction of the firewall to allow the muffler to sit correctly behind the engine and remain as hidden in the cowel as possible. My rough estimates have about a 0.5" of material taken back from the firewall, and about an 1" down from the bottom of the fuse to accomidate the muffler. The big question is which method is the way to go, and if it is the route of removing structure from the plane and re-building some of the firewall, what kind of lenghts should I go to make sure the plane holds up. If there is anyone with any suggestions or even better, someone that has done it or can find pictures of this setup, it would be greatly apprectiated.
Posted on: 1/25/2010 11:21 PM by Author "Warwix"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9448490
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