RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
pics. Will get to them right after I heal up from the 'replacement' procedure. WhiteWolf
Posted on: 11/19/2009 8:04 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9266168

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
some more) WhiteWolf - still alive & kicking in the Great (not-so) White North.
Posted on: 11/18/2009 6:23 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9263667

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
, and with cloth on the outside. Or do they make FG resin thats easier to mix/use these days? WhiteWolf
Posted on: 11/3/2009 3:19 AM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9224356

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
a hollar, ok? WhiteWolf
Posted on: 11/1/2009 3:49 AM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9219389

RE: RADIO AND MOTOR SETUP FOR KYOSHO BLIZZARD DX
Drypipe: Yes, but if I remember correctly, and your man at the RC shop should be able to back me up, you'll want to disconnect one 'hot' (red/power) lead from the ESC's, otherwise both will be trying to feed the components with power, and you may blow both ESC's (the internal BEC, remember?) Best way is to slip the red power lead connector out of the servo plug, and put a bit of heat-shrink over it. That way no permanent damage (like snipping the wire w/ nippers) is done. If you want to, you could even disconnect both, and go with an external battery pack. Then your Dx won't freak when the mail battery pack goes low (the ESC's may have a low-power cut-out/failsafe) If you get the wrong function on the wrong stick, reverse the two 'mixer-to-Rx' cables. If left stick turns right, reverse the two ESC-to-Mixer cables. and if fwd/reverse are muffed, reverse the relevant ESC-to-motor cables. All part of the troubleshooting. And the Futaba Attack is just fine. One of the Pistol Tx's would be easier for throttle/steering, but if its a matter of using what ya got, the Attack is just fine. I wouldn't know about the 3ch Aircraft unit... I was tempted to get into flying until the $75 yearly insurance, and matching club cost (yearly) scared me off. $150 just to be allowed to fly at their field (insurance dun cover ya anywhere else) is not my idea of fun. Boat club needs no insurance, and is only $50 or so. And there is no display-class car/tank club locally, so thats free all round. As for FCC regs... most guys only care if they are running at a display with others, or the host makes it an issue. Personally, if you CAN comply, I think you should. If the Attack is 27 or 75, and the 3ch is 72, definately go with the Attack. Most people are always sure they won't get caught, but it only takes one incident for a report, and if you're caught, you could loose the gear, get a fine, or/and end up with jail time. Here in Canada, they really only care if its in the air... and the clubs self-enforce. The boaters and car clubs tend to... but if you're just messing about in the park, or out in your neighborhood... *shrug*
Posted on: 10/27/2009 2:40 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9206403

RE: The Shermans are in at Mato
chassis... another TRV? BARV? A different D-Day 'Funny'? WhiteWolf
Posted on: 10/27/2009 1:42 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9206224

RE: M4A3E8 Sherman Easy Eight Bulldozer Tank
Hmmm... Bubba showed me some micro-gearboxes a while back... and I've seen at least one site that has a few. There is that casing on top of the armor to hide gear, and one could make a bit more space by cutting into the nose armor, but the drive gearboxes are right there, remember. And the cabling appears to go into the MG port. Its do-able... but one would want a better look at how its attached to the tank chassis before attempting it, and measurements on that actuator casing. Probably want to re-inforce the nose... and that ~is~ a HVSS, might be better to use a Tamiya, with its metal chassis. Just observations...
Posted on: 10/27/2009 1:26 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9206163

RE: Gulp!!!
No secondary explosions? All that flashing is the ammo goin' off. despite the poor audio, you can here a few discrete bangs as shells and/contained propellant detonate. If that had been a crew'd tank, odds are they'd not have escaped. Listen to the audio. Just as the counter hits 9 seconds, you hear the impact. At about 11.5 (after it rolled, but before 12) you hear a first bang, almost like a gunshot, and another, and another, and then you see the flaring as the most probable ignition source, the main gun shells, begin to detonate. Two seconds before secondary shrapnel begins flying = no survivors... unless someone was sitting half-out of a hatch, and jumped before or during the hit, or like Lt. Poole in WW2, got blown from his hatch. The shells sympathetically detonate, until you see the near-continuous burn as they bring the temp inside high enough to get ~everything~ inside that is flammable to burn. If this is a 20+ year old vid clip, today's anti-spall interiors limit this to some extent, as do ERA and other specialty add-on armor. Buty from what we hear out of the 'Sandbox', the old Russian RPG's are just as deadly. One hit can create an open hole, a follow-up round goes onto bare hull (if you're good) and then you cross your fingers and pray (if you're the enemy) Only heard of that one disable, the side-shot on that Abrams that was on the i-net. One or two crew injured, minor damage to the tank. Crew was injured from either the round-fragments or spall-fragments (weren't that many) Any others?
Posted on: 10/27/2009 1:21 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9206151

RE: RADIO AND MOTOR SETUP FOR KYOSHO BLIZZARD DX
, or PM. WhiteWolf
Posted on: 10/27/2009 1:03 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9206103

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
... can be used inside and out too! WhiteWolf
Posted on: 10/25/2009 1:40 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9200783

RE: Landing Craft Tank
" long. WhiteWolf - awaiting his in-transit saw for cutting these babies out...
Posted on: 10/23/2009 11:38 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9197501

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
Rich: Its still a bit hard to see how the capture is made, but it ~appears~ to be similar to an upside-down U shape, w/ the arms of the U formed bu the deck edge & piece 3, the top of the U with piece 1, and the deck piece #2 captive between the arms of the U... Do I have that right? Thats how I thought of making one as well, but pieces 1 and 2 would be 1/16" sq, and #3 being 1/8 x 1/16", so the over-all replacement molding comes out at 1/8", as specified in the plans. The other option would be to make a lip ~inside~ the cabin edge, where its hidden, and does not need to be as intricate. Just idle ideas...
Posted on: 10/22/2009 5:14 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9194125

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
Thanks Rich: Knowing the original dinna have the shim'd slope mades the decision: let it be as is. Makes me feel better knowing my goof actually made it more accurate. Would like to see how ya made pics of the seam though. Thanks for the data Butch, will let ya know when it arrives. Now I gotta crash. Been up too long, gotta fall-down, go-boom, lotsa-ZZZ WhiteWolf
Posted on: 10/21/2009 11:26 AM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9190702

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
[b]Rich:[/b] I was already thinking of using the 1/8" lip idea, putting it on the deck instead of the cabin. Already pulled the similar piece off my AE cabin when I stripped her down to do just that. Combine that with a small seam of that kiddy-craft fun-foam on the bottom of the cabin edge to act like a pressure seal, and presto, no reason to re-slope the deck. Then there is another easy option - put the shim in place on the inner deck edge, use some thinned putty and use a putty knife to lay it onto the deck, with the outer deck edge and inner shim as height guides. Basically you end up w/ a deck of sloped putty. Opinions on the putty idea? If so, how to thin the putty (or alternate materials for similar use?) - Mebbe lay the wet putty down generously, cover it with clear packing tape (or Saran wrap/whatever) and roll it to get it flat between the guides, peel the tape/whatever when its dry? - Or use tissue-wrapping-paper over the filler, then roll (would breathe and let filler dry easier) To be honest, to ~get~ the slope, the putty solution may be easiest, and would hide the seam at D1/D2 as well... right? And I can ~still~ use the 1/8" sq. piece on the deck idea. Everyone? I'll have time to consider options while I finish the bottom of the hull... so everyone, speak up! ( please? )
Posted on: 10/20/2009 10:25 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9189658

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
[b]Aw ~Ach-E-Double-El~[/b] I goofed, but I can think of one neat way to CMA. Firstly, [b][i]Two ~critical~ notes[/i][/b] for anyone reading who hasn't started building yet: [b]ONE:[/b] Leave all the frames intact, upper crossmembers and inserts/cutouts, in place until you've fully planked and deck'd the hull. You'll need the structural strength. Taping the internal cutouts to keep 'em in place if you have to. WHY? Because of the cheap ply Dumas uses. You can easily fracture a frame rib if you don't. [b]TWO:[/b] Read the build instructions all the way through until you think ya got 'em memorised, then do it AGAIN before each step. Why? Because you'll always forget something critical if you don't (unless ya got eidetic/photographic memory) [b]The Goof:[/b] Remember that ~little~ item you can miss in the build write-up, but has a neat diagram in the plans for; that fragmentary 1/20" thickness shim thats meant cant the D1/D2 panels outward, so water tends to sheet off? Well, I forgot it. Not that it'd have helped me any (but I ~do~ have it) I think it'd have flex'd the balsa down instead of the ply up. One fatal point to using the balsa sheers. Question is - do I forget it, or try my remedy... [b]The Possible Remedy:[/b] Remember the 4' sheet of 1/16 basswood ply? I over-plank the D1/D2 w/ the bass ply, and use the shim between the D-deck and the Basswood. Or I could go cheap, and use the 1/16 Balsa to over-plank w/ the shim... [i]Honestly, I don't think I should bother. Opinions?[/i]
Posted on: 10/20/2009 4:02 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9188665

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
forget, I'll try to have some pics up tomorrow, er, later today I guess it is now. WhiteWolf
Posted on: 10/19/2009 1:47 AM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9184457

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
the Dauntless and AE about... a pair of 4-footers is a bit much for a bicycle! WhiteWolf PS: Congrats Butch!
Posted on: 10/18/2009 9:28 AM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9182383

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
on its cabin-section. WhiteWolf
Posted on: 10/15/2009 1:36 AM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9174543

RE: Landing Craft Tank
e-mail, ok? WhiteWolf
Posted on: 10/13/2009 3:53 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170230

RE: Sprocket Bolt
Triple: Take the opposite side one out, and go to the hardware store for a match. Shouldn't cost ya more than 5o cents. Heck, if you are prone to loosing 'em, get a few. But it might be easier to use a bit of the easy-repease locktite, or a cheap sub, Shoe Goo. Rub a bit on the threads before you screw it in. DON'T use CA as locktite... you'll have to use MEK or CA debonder to get the thing out...
Posted on: 10/13/2009 3:48 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170218

RE: HELP ....Gluing Painted Parts
bobbart: On the styrene-to-styrene, a solvent glue is the BEST way to go. Tenax-R, or one of the others, or if you have a local plastics shop, what is called MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) is what ya want. If you go for the Tenax, buy the kit they sell that comes w/ a 'touch-n-flow applicator. Its a fine guage hypu tibe attached to a glass tube, making an applicator pipette. A medication eyedropper will NOT work, the stuff is too thin (I tried that) but I LOVE the T-n-F For most others, use CA. But I'd avoid using accellerator, it tends to make the CA brittle, and leaves a white residue. And sometimes you wanna use something like Shoe Goo, as you want a joint to have a ~bit~ of give. Just my 2 Canuck pennies.
Posted on: 10/13/2009 3:45 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170209

RE: Modern area tank ?
Herrmill: Is Hooben's T55 available yet? if so, whats the cost on it?
Posted on: 10/13/2009 3:39 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Tanks"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9170192

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
Rich: Neat info, and for others, I recommend Bing Maps, as it can give you a nice birds'eye view of the place. Took me back to a trip I made to Franklin NH years back, that spooked me in quite a few ways. The worst was knowing where the hospital in Burlington Vt was, and the back way out to 89 around the airport, and I'd NEVER been to Burlington before. But about Dauntless things... Do I read the canopy plans right and there is supposed to be a support post in the middle of the aft deck, about 2/3 back from the aft cabin to the transom? (measurements say 4 & 1/4") That seems supremely odd... but I'll hold off on it until the last moment. I have some piano wire here, and think I'll use it for the two exposed main-canoppy cross-members, using a small tube of brass to accept the end soldered to the side-crossbar, and may even use it for the uprights too. It would also make it much easier to dismantle the canopy supports, but leave it less likely to bend when erected. Thoughts? And does anyone have any ideas about motorizing the radar array atop the mast? I've made mine from brass tube instead of dowel, just in case I can rig something. The pivot-point of the array is off-center in the 1/2" round piece set forward, so I'll have to use a shaft/gear assembly. Hiding this in that small piece may be a challenge, but with hollow rod, I can always just have the initial dummy one sit with a piece that slips into the tube end. Most of the cabin roof-parts are assembled, and the central seams are filled and awaiting sanding. Then I can mark where the mast goes on the aft cabin roof for its mounts, and the cabin doors can be marked. I don't think I'll cut 'em out, just make some 'doors' over the side-areas to match the hatches on the roof. Anything in the plans showing those Rich? Or perhaps estate photos taken on the boat? That would be an immense help. Oh, and need to mark where the forward cabin railing posts go, and the other relevant bits. Slowly but surely...
Posted on: 10/10/2009 6:37 AM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9161198

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
the card... *sigh* WhiteWolf
Posted on: 10/7/2009 4:26 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9154421

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
there, and work outward! Ah well, no real harm done. WhiteWolf
Posted on: 10/5/2009 1:04 AM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9147327

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
for the shipment. You should get it any day now, or so I'm told. WhiteWolf
Posted on: 9/30/2009 12:07 AM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9134853

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
Rich: Some form of carpenter's glue, yellow, would have to go get the bottle to get the exact brand. I leave it for that long just in case, would rather be extra-sure its dry than pull the clamps off and find out its not set... right? Now that I remembered where the bottle is (I load it into 10ml & 25m syringes for ease of application) I note the lable on the bottle is gone. Ah well, its all going to get an over-coat of thinned epoxy once the hull is done. Then i'll finish up the superstructure before dosing that too. My experience with thinned epoxy is it has fibreglas beat for ease of mix AND application, especially for simple slow-set 50/50 two-part types. Been holding off on doing the AE hull so I can dose both hulls at once. Besides... its not like I'm in a rush or anything...
Posted on: 9/24/2009 5:38 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9121107

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
Rich: I remember it, and will have a double-chance to extend it when I use the half-thick balsa and cross-plank it. Still a fair bit away from that yet though...
Posted on: 9/24/2009 2:39 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9120756

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
(or fibreglas's , as per choice) Quality mahogany ply my hairy butt. WhiteWolf
Posted on: 9/24/2009 1:38 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9120606

RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
[b]DF:[/b] Perhaps they were a movable feature, and stored somewhere else when not on deck? Or perhaps they doubled as the stairs ~down~ in that through-passage between that aft deck and the bridge area? I dunno if I'll put mine on the aft deck, but may place 'em in the through-cabin (and make them the right width for that passage too) (Guess I posted a little too slow, Rich beat me to things, but I was fairly correct, wasn't I?) Do the images of the S&S plans that you scanned show them, Rich? I have a copy of the formerly-posted article, but it dinna have the header as yours has. Anyone want me to repost the copy I have for comparison? I'm going ahead with the planking, and may have to do the lower bow section the same way as the upper bow is meant to be planked. I'm going to see if the local store I've noted outside of the village I grew up in (Manotick - Ojibwa word meaning "island in the river" ) has the thin basswood ply I hope to use. I have some here, but want to have a source for more 'cause I hope to plank the LCM with it.(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manotick) I'm also starting to examine the plans for other stuff I can do out of sequence, like the antenna/radar mast, ladders, life raft, and other things. Anyone have ideas?
Posted on: 9/12/2009 12:40 PM by Author "WhiteWolf McBride" in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9089490