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RE: IMAC scoring at competitions
what you explained is fairly typical practice around the world I guess. what I was trying to say, is there any competitions held, where the judges enter the data once the flight is complete to remove the need for a scorekeeper. It was just a thought I had, that we could have the judges enter values into a "smart device" and have the data later loaded into a score/scoring software. I wondered if this has been tried?
Posted on: 2/22/2012 11:30 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "IMAC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10971694
IMAC scoring at competitions
quick question, how do you take care of scoring at IMAC competitons? In New Zealand, the judges note each maneuver on a piece of paper, where some one else types in the values using "score" software, later in the day. Is this typical for other competitons around the world? or is there a easyier way, as the poor sucker behind the laptop can spend alot of time, hitting in numbers from 0 to 10. Anthony
Posted on: 2/22/2012 10:22 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "IMAC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10970783
RE: SMALL DISPLACEMENT FOUR STROKE GLOW TO GAS CONVERSION
my wording is always bad[:)] I mean I estimated a growth of 0.005" in the cylinders vertical high. you mention 0.006", so all in all very little. I'll make a bracket out of a some 2.5mm which is approx 3/32".
Posted on: 3/6/2011 10:05 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10382378
RE: SMALL DISPLACEMENT FOUR STROKE GLOW TO GAS CONVERSION
yes I see what you mean by a plain bearing now, I've never had conrod issues in the past, mainly bearing corroison problems so fingers crossed with this new converison. I've just bench run the engine to see how it operates for now. I'm going to make a bracket to support the carburator, a piece of light aluminum should be ok as the cylinder will grow with heat, I quess 0.005" or so won't cause problems. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyoxymethylene "Acetal" spelt with a "e", my mistake. As far as thermal properties are concerned there are better plastics available. Acetal is very easy to cut and work with and the fact that I had some on hand. If I find my brass plate reaches high temperatures I will most likely make a new insulator. I have no real gasket, just a thin layer of exhaust gasket sealant on the carb side, nothing on the brass plate side. As far as RPM readings go, I have no tacho as of yet, but will sort one out.
Posted on: 3/5/2011 9:14 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10381599
RE: SMALL DISPLACEMENT FOUR STROKE GLOW TO GAS CONVERSION
I still have to make a bracket to support the underside of the carb. the insulator is just a piece of actel sheet, 3mm thick. Curious how the OS's will hold up. Especially the bottom main journal (plain?) what do you mean by plain main journal? the bottom end of the OS120FS has a bronze bush, I think the later alphas series do not. I've run the engine on glow and clocked up enough run time now to switch over to gas. Im running redline synthetic oil at 16:1. I know it may seem like alot but redline is very clean burning and in the grand sceme of things 16:1 is still alot lower than 16-18% glow mix. I was thinking about installing a small nipple (such as a exhaust nipple) in the backplate to allow a small shoot of pure oil to be injected from time to time, to aid in bottom end lubication. there's two bosses in the back plate so drilling and tapping this area will be easy. Any thoughts? I should mention my inspiration came from the work that "pull up now" has done and the videos "i7x58" has posted of his sweet running satios. not to mention w8ye and others in this thread and there trial and error examples. And not to mention the fact this is my last glow engine that I own, no more hydroscopic, rustly, slimely glow fuel[;)]
Posted on: 3/5/2011 3:17 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10380831
RE: SMALL DISPLACEMENT FOUR STROKE GLOW TO GAS CONVERSION
I know, thats the major plus side for me. never had a single problem with corrosion since running gas engines
Posted on: 3/5/2011 3:15 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10381022
RE: SMALL DISPLACEMENT FOUR STROKE GLOW TO GAS CONVERSION
good point about the throttle linkage, did'nt think of that. videos will come with time also
Posted on: 3/5/2011 1:29 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10380834
RE: SMALL DISPLACEMENT FOUR STROKE GLOW TO GAS CONVERSION
well after mating a RCexel ignition module to my OS120FS I decided to go all the way and fit a WT465-1 Carb. What a difference it made to the reilabilty and idle. I just made a brass plate and reused the orignal OS manifold but swapped the elbow around so the out further from the cylinder.
Posted on: 3/4/2011 8:18 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Engine Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10379635
RE: New O.S 4 strokes!
I like look of the 155 alpha. I've owned a few OS four strokes in the past, 200FS and .70FS, and currently a brand new yet to be flown 120FS. I have also owned a YS140FS. basically YS engines require 20% Nitro preferablly 25-30% to run any good. OS run well on 10% but always lead to corrioson problems in the bottom end. I also fly a bit of gas (DA50 and 100) and gas is the way of the future. NO rust, Cheap and the added benefit of lubrucation from the petrol - methonal is very dry. If only OS would bring out there four strokes in a petrol version, with a decent carb I think it would be a success. cheap gas, no rust, low idle, high torque, engines last longer on gas than methonal. btw I've seen a couple of magnum four strokes and well, with the lack of compression (one was a leaking valve stem) I think they are a POS[:-]
Posted on: 2/4/2011 7:42 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10313307
RE: OS120FS spark ignition?
thanks for the link, 17pages of info should answer some of my questions
Posted on: 9/4/2010 7:22 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9980608
RE: OS120FS spark ignition?
If I went down the petrol road I would have to change the carb, and o-rings. Not to mention the lack of head fins for cooling. Spark with methonal seems easier if its been proven to work reliabily. I can machine a spacer ring to hold the hall effect sensor but modifiying the intake mainfold for a pumper carb is past me.
Posted on: 9/4/2010 7:12 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9980591
OS120FS spark ignition?
Hi all, I have a brand new OS120 Surpass non/pumped engine in its box, I am currently building a topflite P-51 for it. I've gone away from glow and fly mainly gas now and like the cheap clean hassle free running of the gas engines. Question I have is about converting my 120FS to spark ignition. I would still run methanol and adequate oil, but would like to eliminate the nitro as its getting more expensive and seems to be of lower quality with bad corrosion problems- Chinese nitro I'm guessing. Anyway who makes a suitable ignition system? Rcxel? Has anyone out there converted there glow engines that could comment, on power, reliability, fuel??? Cheers Anthony
Posted on: 9/4/2010 7:01 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9980578
RE: RC gps
If you have electronic/programming knowlodge then diydrones.com has plently of info
Posted on: 9/4/2010 6:45 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "UAV's and Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9980552
RE: Should Carden release a 50cc kit, and if so what airframe?
a smaller version of there 35% Extra 260 or Yak54. around 86/87" wingspan, 16lb or so for a 50cc. I would buy one over a "made in PRC ARF" any day. Anthony
Posted on: 3/24/2009 2:41 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Carden Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8610385
RE: Anyone done a rolling inside loop?
I had a video of Quique S preforming a outside loop from inverted very low, with only one roll through out. This was years ago at a TOC and after watching the video I was determined to try it myself. I find for a smooth round loop you need horsepower, moderate control throw but not to much, and a forward C.G not a 3d C.G. practice with long slow rolls to start with then move on to rolling circles. rolling loops are no different than rolling circles, except for the force of gravity squashing the top of the loop. At the top of the loop minimal rudder is needed. When I started with circles and loops I used a stick plane at home with my transmitter imagnating the transmitter control inputs as the plane performs a circle or loop. with loops it is best to start with the first half only. Anthony
Posted on: 12/12/2008 2:33 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8238934
RE: antennae routing - suspected interferance
[quote]ORIGINAL: JoeAirPort I think those twisted servo extensions do nothing (except look cool). I believe the problem is noise getting into the antenna not noise getting into the servo extensions. The twisted extensions prevent noise from getting into the extensions. [/quote] The servo extensions are most likely the cause of the noise and if the antenna is too close it will pick up the noise, thats how I see it. Twisted extension leads cause each core to be subject to the same level of interefence in a noisy enviroment as the next core. Common mode rejection ratio determines whether or not twisting leads will work. I don't think twisted leads do much myself, they look cool and curve around corners easiler.
Posted on: 10/18/2008 12:52 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8059634
RE: antennae routing - suspected interferance
[quote]ORIGINAL: hornetnz Hi all, So im suspecting something in my new plane is causing interference. Almost every flight has had at least one radio hit, usually on the elevators. Just a quick dip and its gone. My range check is ok I think, but I was able to go further with the antennae outside the plane instead. I currently had the antennae routed inside the plane in a clear plastic tube. The tube runs along the fuse on the opposite side of the servo wires. But, it all converges near the tail where the ele/rudder servos are. I have the antenna tube exiting the bottom of the fuse near the tailwheel. I have a trainer on the same channel that I fly wwith the same radio, so I can rule the radio out. So my question is, [b]whats the best way to route the antennae?[/b] I would prefer to keep it inside, but if bringing it outside will let me fly safe... [b]Is there something else I should be looking at that might be causing the interference?[/b] I have some pics of the plane at the build thread, but none showing the antennae routing. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7399078/tm.htm [/quote] I have had trouble with elevator glitches on my 2.6m comp-arf Extra. The model was brought second hand and the elevator extenstion leads ran down the fuse sides in a snakey/curvy direction, the plane flew well with no problems until I placed the extenstion leads in a straight line along the bottom of the fuse for aesthetic appeal. This is when the glitches started, the model would dip quickly then stop and always when flying horizontal. If your extenstion leads are straight, and parallel to the antennae this may be your problem Anthony
Posted on: 10/10/2008 3:40 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8035607
RE: Is it possible to get a kit version of your 73" Yak?
102" 100cc Yak as a kit set, then finishing could be done to my style. Not that there is any thing wrong will QQ ARFs. They are the best ARFs on the market, in my eyes anyway.
Posted on: 10/10/2008 3:30 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Quique''s Aircraft Support - CLOSED"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8035599
RE: Ninja 500
Who has Ninjas in NZ, are you talking about Dave. What is the landed cost?
Posted on: 5/30/2008 2:08 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Q-500 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7558506
RE: Q500 Racers!
Backplate, I have raced both conventional and v-tail Q500 models. There is not much in it for speed but the V-tail handles alot better, mainly though the turn. And they tend to fly straighter without the wanding. I would go V-tail but either way you should manage a 1:30 in Q500 sport. Anthony
Posted on: 4/19/2008 2:38 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Q-500 Racing"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7391941
RE: 102" Yak/DA-85
Eraser, what does the Jtec muffler weigh?, or do you have a part number?. What servos did you use? I was thinking DA-85 w/mtw td75 can. Anthony
Posted on: 1/5/2008 2:46 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Quique''s Aircraft Support - CLOSED"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6858369
RE: Futaba wishlist
Pull finger with there 2.4GHz radios. e.g bring out a native 12FG, 12MZ instead of plugging in an ugly module. Tight gear train digital servos, helical cut plastic gears maybe, If Hitec can do it I'm sure Futaba can. Servos that can handle 7.0v and upward with ease, I use JR digitals and they jitter on a freshly charged 5 cell pack Last of all avoid that cheap, plastic transitter case feel, I mean you can feel the quality difference between a JR9303 and a Futaba9CAP, same deal when comparing a JR12X and a 14MZ Futaba ergonomics aren't as good as JR, but I use a TX tray anyway.
Posted on: 12/22/2007 3:55 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6791681
RE: Trimming (Rudd mix Vs Side thrust)
I think you'd find it more comfortable to retrim the elevator to give level flight, or just a [u]very[/u] slight dive, whilst upright. Then, if necessary, adjust the c.of g. to give just a slight dive whilst inverted---or,better, the model holds a 45 upline after a half roll to inverted,with no tendency to drop its nose after the half roll. (This is assuming that you've set the engine downthrust to give a straight vertical power-on climb). With most modern designs, with the decalage set so that the wing is 1/4 to 1/2 degree positive relative to the tail, the power-off downline will then show a small tendency to pull to the canopy, if you've set it up as above. So,then, you can use a small percentage of down elevator-to-low-throttle mix (typically just one or two percent) to get the downline straight. You won't notice it flying level at low power(landing approach for example), and it feels a lot easier than constantly having to hold up in at all power settings during level upright flight. The upline on power is straight up or near enough. I'll try and move the C.G back slightly, last resort will be to adjust the tail incidence. cheers Anthony
Posted on: 12/15/2007 3:32 PM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6761015
Trimming (Rudd mix Vs Side thrust)
Hello all I am having trouble trimming my Pattern model and need advice. My model is a 2x2 Matrix (similar to a CPLR Alliance) running an RX140 with a 16x12 APC. Is it better to use side thrust or a rudder/throttle mix? How much side thrust becomes to much? At the moment I have about 3.5 degrees of side thrust and 4% throttle/rudd mix. Up lines and down lines are fairly straight althought with varying speeds the model tracks off line such as through a 1/2 loop. Also I have trimmed the elevator to give a good vertical downline, while having to hold a far bit of up elevator to maintain level flight, Inverted requires little down elevator stick. Is it better to just hold some stick while level or use a mix? Help me pattern pros[8D] Anthony
Posted on: 12/15/2007 12:45 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6759102
RE: OS 200 Four Stroke for a Yak 74"
I am running a 200FS in my QQ 73" Yak, 18x8 Mejlik carbon prob, 15% Nitro, Hyde soft mount (I had to move the firewall back 1"). Plane flies light and has plenty of power, but its not over powered like some people would suggest (namely the old scale buffs in my club). orginally had a YS 140 Sport in the front which but it was as gutless as a gutless thing.[&:]
Posted on: 12/5/2007 12:34 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Quique''s Aircraft Support - CLOSED"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6715500
RE: Signal voltage
[quote]ORIGINAL: Bax Usually, the signal from the receiver to the servo has an amplitude equal to the battery voltage. [/quote] This is true for PPM (FM) receviers. What about PCM Receviers that are micro processor based (most likely operate at 3.3V)?? I came across this from a website (http://www.mp.ttu.ee/risto/rc/electronics/radio/signal.htm) "The voltage levels of the control signal (that is usually generated by the receiver) differ from type to type. FUTABA PPM (standard FM) receivers used to have from 0V (low) to almost input battery voltage (high), some FUTABA PCM receivers use from 0V (low) to 3.3V (high). This is a common cause of problems when using these types of FUTABA PCM receivers with some other company servos or speed controllers (I did experience erratic behavior with GRAUPNER/JR servos in conjunction with FUTABA PCM receiver, which made me to look for a reason). All FUTABA own servos or speed controllers seem to work without any problems with the 3.3V control signal.''
Posted on: 11/20/2007 3:16 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6648521
RE: Composite-arf NEW 2.1 Extra !!
[quote]ORIGINAL: BaldEagel You must cut an extra slot for the second horn to be rearly effective, parcel tape over the slots formed, cut a slot in the parcel tape and fill the void in the wing with Epoxy and Microballoons, the part of the horn that goes into the wing should also have holes drilled in them to allow the expoxy to penetrate and form a mechanical bond as well as a glue bond. If you look at my "Xtreme Conmposite Edge build thread" you will see more details. Mike EDIT: to add link: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6236424/tm.htm [/quote] makes sense to cut another slot. louvers for the cansister look like a good idea as well
Posted on: 10/25/2007 1:15 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6535784
RE: Composite-arf NEW 2.1 Extra !!
[quote]ORIGINAL: BaldEagel When I eventually get mine I am going to do the same as I did on my Compostite Edge, I don't like the so called Phenolic horns as you can't guarantee what they are made out of, as Phenolic is the process of extrusion, so I have made some new horns out of real carbon fibre doubled up so that I can use ball links. Mike [/quote] I was going to do the same thing, then I came across your post. Did you cut an extra slot in the control surface for the extra control horn OR is the extra control horn just sitting flush on the surface???
Posted on: 10/23/2007 4:31 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6526856
fuel tank clunk
Hello, I am installing a DA-50 into my new 2.12m extra. This is my first gas engine and wondered if I need to take any special precaution with the fuel tank clunk? I have heard that sintered bronze or felt filters are required for clunk pick ups to avoid fuel foaming, is this true. cheers Anthony
Posted on: 10/23/2007 1:28 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6526573
RE: Engine Cleaning
Pot of simmering water on the stove with a table spoon of laundry detergent. leave the engine simmering in the pot and after about ten minutes the grime will wipe off. may need longer if the engine is really bad. This is no good for bearings, carbs or silicon seals. works well on heads and mufflers. hows that wild hare going? Anthony
Posted on: 9/10/2007 5:52 AM by Author "Wildstyle"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6348974
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