RE: Turnigy Lipos
Got my 1st 2 packs (3S1P 20C 2200Ma/H) 2 years ago.... Still using them regularly. I have bought more since. Also identically sized Zippy's, since the price difference between the 2 is only a $1 or so. I can't complain about either. Non have "died" yet.
Posted on: 11/26/2010 4:50 PM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Electric RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10161247

RE: Hobby-Lobby's StarMax F9F Panther
I know this is an old thread, but Aerial Hobby in Singapore are selling both the Blue and the Grey/White versions of this model in "bare bones" spec (you provide all the power and radio gear) for $US45. I have a DonsRC Wicked 4700Kv Motor and 64mm Fan for mine.
Posted on: 10/14/2010 1:32 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Electric RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10067528

RE: Phoenix Model Tucano 40
Hi Joe, I now have a series III ASP .52 2 stroke in my Tucano. It is identical to the Magnum.52. The cowl fitted with little mangling. I used a dremel tool with a router bit to cut a hole between the air intake opening under the prop driver opening, to allow room for the carby, as the carb did prevent the cowl from fitting correctly. I also dremeled a small concave opening just under the carby hole to allow better airflow into the carby. To strengthen this latter section (as the cowl was now a lot thinner at this point) I epoxied a small piece of brass fuel tank tubing across on the inside. So far it has stood up well. Naturally you will have to cut out a piece for the nose wheel and drill a hole the carby needle and idle speed screw. No big deal. Just ensure that the piece cut for the nose wheel is big enough to allow for sufficient hot air exit. I have attached a couple of photos of the nose so you can see what I did. As for the muffler, you can chose between an inverted type muffler such as the unit that Slimline makes to suit the OS .40-.46. SF (Slimline part no 3208, pic below. You will also have to drill and tap it for a pressure fitting and cut the twin pipes to get the correct length for your model if you use this one) or the stock one supplied with your engine. I used the stock muffler and found that I also had to use a Dubro Muffler Extension ( Dubro part no 638, pic below) because the muffler made contact with the cowl side. The extension stopped this. I also fitted a remote filling valve. One other mod. My model had self tapping wood screws to secure the nose wheel leg mounting block. I junked them, as well as the supplied wheels which were "square." In place to secure the aforementioned nose wheel block, I used 2 pairs of machine screws and matching blind nuts. As for the wheels, I used 2.5 inch Dubro's. Prop is an 11 x 7 RAM (from the U.K.) and the spinner is a Tru Turn.
Posted on: 4/18/2009 6:35 PM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8691937

RE: Which Cub to buy, H9 or GP
I have the GP ARF Cub .40 , powered by a Saito .65. The Saito is more than sufficient and the GP Cub is a gentle flyer. A few years ago I had a Kyosho ARF .40 Cub. It's wingspan was a little smaller than the GP offering, but it it also had "fabric" covering and the undercart was very scale, unlike the GP ARF Cub' undercart. The Kyosho Cub had an ancient (20 rears old) Super Tigre .60 ringed 2 stroke up front and it flew the model at less than 1/2 power. I loved it. However its weakness was the horizontal stab which was easily cracked, where it joined the fuselage, by the slightest knock. Then some low life stole the model! The GP Cub was the replacement and I am quite happy with it. The hardware in the GP Kit is 1st class naturally, being all Great Planes stuff. The only ARF I have had where I have not had to substitute supplied components for better quality bits and pieces.
Posted on: 4/18/2009 3:21 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8692143

RE: Fox .50
Give Fox a call about making one up on special order. That's how I got mine in 2006. Cost was not over the top.
Posted on: 1/15/2009 6:22 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8360215

RE: The Magnum XLS 46 Break In Debate
"..But, if anyone's got an ASP/Magnum .46 out there that's clocked up 400 hours and still runs nearly as good as new on the original piston/liner I'd love to be proved wrong.." Here's proof. Got 3. 1) 2 x Magnum .46 XL (OS .46 SF Clone) 1st one front needle, purchased 1996. Apart from 2 new sets of bearings, (2002 & 2006). It now has nearly 550 hours and has powered a variety of models from Trainers to Low Wing Sports models. Currently in a Trainer being converted to a floatplane. It's just starting to get a little tired now, not enough to warrant a rebuild. On reflection, with current low prices on budget Asian engines, it will probably be replaced with a new unit rather than trying to locate a new Piston and Liner. (It is a superceded model after all.) It has surprised me with its longevity. Engine No 2. Same model engine and size, but later release with rear needle. Purchased 1999. Around 430 hours run time, 1 new set of bearings (2005) A strong runner and currently in a Stik, but earmarked for a PT-19 ARF. 3) 1 x.32 XL. Purchased 1998. Bearings replaced 2005. Around 380 hours so far. A good runner. Easiest of the 3 to start. Currently in storage, filled with after run oil and sealed. (Got an "Airsail"DHC2 Beaver kit on the construction boards for this one. But it is taking a while. Just where does all the time go?) None of these engines are what I would classify as "super powerhouses," when compared to something like a modern TT, MVVS or Super Tigre, but they are very reliable on 5% Nitro and 20% Oil (Degummed Castor/Synthetic mix) The warning re "flash" inside is not to be taken likely. Engine 2 had to have the carby replaced after such "flash" scored the inside of the carby housing and allowing excess air to get in. (Yes, I learnt the hard way!) All 3 were run in on the lines of Dar Zeelon's suggestions. At the time I did not know of Dar's thread, but took advice of my instructor (an old pylon"jock") and one of my club's former presidents (now deceased) who was a big Pattern "name" downunder in the days of the .61 2 stroke powered Pattern model ("Kaos" etc .) Their methods (learnt from many years experience) pretty well mirrored Dar's thoughts. Good luck with your Magnum.
Posted on: 1/9/2009 6:37 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8337364

RE: Anyone here flying a Kitti Wake?
It might make an excellent electric powered conversion if you can still find a kit.
Posted on: 9/18/2008 4:02 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Seaplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7965934

RE: Club Laser?
I have 2 x Laser 100's. One is earmarked for a VQ P40. Not sure about the other. I also have an unbuilt Blackhorse .60 sized T-18 Trojan, but a Laser 100 may be a little over the top for this model.
Posted on: 9/13/2008 12:26 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7948995

RE: FOX 40 HELP!!!!!
Which version of the Fox .40 is it? The BB ABC Deluxe or one of the Meehanite (Iron) Piston ones? Or do you have one of the early "B" frame units? (same crankcase as the .45 and .46) Fox's are all designed for LOW nitro- around 5 - 10% and if you have one of the cast iron piston ones, 17-20% CASTOR Oil in the fuel, no Synthetic. You can get away with Castor/Synthetoc mix in the ABC version. According to the manual for the Eagle .60, only 5% Nitro is required, unless you live at high altitudes or in very cold conditions, where a little more will assist starting. 25% would blow the thing apart. If you go to http://web.archive.org/web/20050306075518/www.flitelinesolutions.com/manuals.html you can still download the various manuals in .pdf format. You mention the high speed and low speed needles. This indicates you have a very early engine as Fox have been only using air bleed carby's (single needle) for a long time now.
Posted on: 9/13/2008 12:00 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7948922

RE: BH T28 Trojan ARF
Blackhorse/Seagull/Phoenix/Graupner--all from the same factory. I was so impressed with the smaller of the 2 T-28's when I finally received it, that I promptly ordered the big one. Will put a 4 stroke up front on that one, (the small one is going electric) I have 2 choices- an ASP.91 and a Laser 100. Should look good with a 14 x 7 3 bladed prop.
Posted on: 3/14/2008 5:18 PM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7225118

RE: BH T28 Trojan ARF
I now have the smaller one and getting it ready for an electric conversion. BH have made it easy, supplying both an electric motor box mount and also glow engine bearers. Holes are drilled in the firewall for either set up and a removable Lipo battery tray screwed in the fuel tank compartment. It has the same removable belly pan covering the wing attachment bolts that the big one has- held in place via the same spring loaded catch. (The same catch is also found on the Phoenix Rainbow/Graupner Electro Kadett battery hatch cover.) Well thought out by BH designers. I am that impressed with the quality and finish of the model that I have now ordered the larger version. A Laser 100 4 stroke will be the power plant.
Posted on: 3/10/2008 3:18 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7202118

RE: Demise of MVVS Glow Engines?
Hey guys, how amusing reading all the negative comments. I remember the same arguments appearing around 15 years ago, except it was about building kits vs ARF's. Remember all the purists snorting away about how the ARF was killing R/C and was only a passing fad and they would never be caught dead owning one? I had them at my club too and I now see the same guys owning and flying 3 or 4 or more ARF's and saying how kit building is just not worth it and ARF's are good value etc etc. Now I notice that most of the complainers in this thread are from the USA. Plenty of wide open spaces there, just like we have down here. But remember that MVVS is a European manufacturer and has a big market in that part of the world as well. In parts of crowded Europe, noise regulations have forced some clubs to adopt an "electric only policy." Some guys have to drive for hours to fly a glow engine powered model. MVVS have seen a big market there not dominated by the "el cheapo" Asian made 2 stroke and have jumped in. Electric Flight is the fastest growing market in R/C flying and they are positioning themselves for the future. They will be going head to head with fellow Czech Republic manufacturer, Model Motors (AXI) -- not O.S. GMS, Magnum etc etc ---yet. As to my loyaties? I 1st started in model flying using a Webra 2.5 cc Diesel. It was Control Line (R/C was only for the very rich or the military) and I only used Diesels to power my models until one day I came across a lovely little Glow engine made by a company I had never heard of until that moment. They called themselves O.S. I never bought another Diesel again. Well, I now have a "hangar" containing both electric and glow models. I just bought an MVVS.49 glow and an MVVS 4.6/890 Brushless Electric from Dar Zeelon. As time goes by, I find myself more and more reaching for the electric models when I see an opportunity to dash over to my local club's flying field for a quick couple of flights. Grab a Model, the Tx and stuff a couple of Lipo packs into a pocket and away I go. If I have the time to spend a whole day flying, (which is rare these days) then the glow models and all the other stuff needed to get them up in the air (flight box, fuel caddy etc etc) come out. Plus we have the added hazard ( to I.C engines) of the dust and grit which are being experienced here by over 10 years of drought is proving a killer for the glow engine. Having lost an expensive 4 stroke to grit ingestion, I found that brushless electrics are pretty well grit proof. Sure, I would not use an electric motor in any model over 72 inch w/span. But we are seeing more and more Outrunners in use in 2 metre Pattern Models It's only inevitiable, as Dar says, that the small Glow motor will find its place taken by the electric Outrunner, just as the Glow engine took the place of the Diesel 2 stroke as the premier model airplane power plant. Yes, I know that diesels are still about for the enthusiast. but "Joe Average" R/C flyer just isn't interested in them as a whole now. Electric power. You don't have to like it, that's your perogative, but get used to it-- it's a sign of things to come. (And----- it's the safest way to power a twin.)
Posted on: 2/3/2008 7:14 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7016498

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
I took these many years ago on a visit to the AHM at Kansas City. Plus one additional taken onboard the HARS C121C at Avalon last year. Hope they may be of use and good luck.
Posted on: 1/26/2008 3:56 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6971802

RE: B24 ARTF WHERE IS IT?
It is owned by Tony Farnan, owner of Model Engines Hobby Distributors in Melbourne, Australia. They are the OS agents in Australia. The model was made for him by CC Lee Models, of Shanghai. Power is from 4 x O.S .91 4 strokes. CC Lee also make the "Awesome RC" line of model airplanes (sold in Australia) and ASM models (sold in the USA) The most well know of these is the ASM DH 88 Comet (88 inch w/span) which is made for either IC or Electric power. Tony Farnan trots the Lib out on display days etc. Model Engines, are, unlike many R/C distributors, very active in "hands on" promotion of the products they distribute and have an excellent reputation within the local R/C fraternity. Mr Lee (owner of CC Lee) also has a similar sized and very detailed, B17G. Isn't it nice to own your own ARF factory??? N.B. The original thread can be found at: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3173382/anchors_3173382/mpage_1/key_B24%252CLiberator%252CARF/anchor/tm.htm#3173382 Don't bother to click on the Model Engines photo link- M.E. have long removed it.
Posted on: 1/26/2008 3:28 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6971757

RE: BH T28 Trojan ARF
Is there a enough room in the fuselage for the nose wheel leg on retraction? Looking at the posted pics, I have my doubts.
Posted on: 1/26/2008 3:00 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6971724

RE: electric question, as i receive no help in electric forum
His model is not going to fly like a conventional airplane. He stated that the wing has no airfoil section. So it's safe to reason that it will be a 3D profile type model, hovered just like a helicopter, so there will be no great aerodynamic stress on the airframe. For this type of "flying" (for want of a better word) he will need power and lots of it. However, the choice of a 3 cell lipo of that weight is, as pertime says, a concern. For the battery, something in the 700-900 Ma/H size would be more suitable. I have a 5.2 oz Edge 2Xtreme (pic is from the web as my camera is "bruk") and use a 3 cell 800 Ma/H Polyquest. Motor is an Esskay Outrunner, weight 45 grams, 12 amp ESC. But getting back to everyone elses concerns about his model. There is one major point being missed here. It's o.k to spout about how he should use an AXI, or use a Hacker etc etc. Yes, both quality brands. But the Hobby City offer has one major thing going for it over the AXI and the Hacker. ---- Price! He can get the Hobby City motor/esc package for $19.95. How much an AXI 2204/54 in the USA? $64!!!!!!! (Hobby Lobby's price.) And no ESC. Throw in a quality Jetti or CC ESC and you can take his outlay to $US110+ Big difference between that and $US19.95 guys eh? (Seems everyone likes to spend someone else's money for them.) So, if his $19.95 outlay, to power an experimental home made profile 3D foamy model does not work, then it's no big deal or strain on the pocket. And he can always cut a bigger model from a sheet of blue foam and try again. If it does work, then he can upgrade the electrics later. I think his approach is quite sensible.
Posted on: 1/26/2008 2:55 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6971711

RE: electric question, as i receive no help in electric forum
The Loong Max Packs are quite o.k. I have been using a pair in a Phoenix Rainbow (sold in the USA as the Graupner Electro Kadett via Hobby Lobby) for quite some time and they are every bit as good as my Polyquest and Hyperion packs, which are sold at more than double the price. However, what the maximum life of the Loong Max packs are, in terms of recharge, or cycle capacity, I have yet to find out.. The pack you are looking at is good for up to 24 amps current discharge ("C rating x Ma/H capacity of the pack , in this case 1600 x 15 = 24000 or 24 amps) which is 4 amps more than the maximum capacity of the motor. In the EP flight game, a device such as an E-Flight Power Meter , or the hard to get Hyperion E-Meter is a very handy tool to have. Assemble your motor/prop/esc and battery combo, connect them up to the Power Meter or whatever you have, run it at full throttle for 10 or so seconds and record the readings displayed by the measuring meter. Fit another size prop and repeat. Keep doing this until you find a prop that gives you a result that is as close as possible to the maximum efficiency reading that the motor manufacturer specifies. (In this case 15.5 amps, the max quoted on the Hobby City motor stats sheet) But at the same time, ensuring the capacity of the ESC and battery are not compromised. The motor manufacture will give you a prop size in the instructions, that is a good starting point.
Posted on: 1/24/2008 3:07 PM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6962902

RE: fox engines ???
Amongst several well known brands of 2 stroke, I have several Fox's, but as Hossfly says, they are not for the "Plug and Play" man. I got a heap of good info from the guys at: http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/fliteline/ Once you have learnt about setting them up (and the rules are different for Fox's) they are o.k. My favourites- the .45 Ring, (never had a dead stick from that engine) the .46 ABC (who said they don't do ABC technology- I also have a .40 ABC) and the .50 Ring. The latter is a real stump puller. I tune them all rich 2 stroke (they lean out once airborne) and use a mixture of synthetic and degummed castor oil in my fuel mix (total 20 % oil and 5 % nitro) One other thing Fox will do for you. They will rebuild your Fox engine if it needs an overhaul, or rebuild it after a crash. And the cost is quite reasonable.
Posted on: 1/20/2008 5:17 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6937268

RE: Blackhorse Kit
I am putting a Speed Air 40 together at present and it is going together very well. 2 problems I have identified though. The 1st is the supplied wheels were "square" and also in my opinion, a tad too small for the rough grass fields I fly off. That is easily fixed though. I will fit a 2 and a 1/2 inch wheel to the noze and maybe 2 and 3/4 inch units to the mains. I know I have some of each size somewhere in one of my R.C storage draws. And BH are not the only ARF manufacturer to supply wheels that are either too small or square. Also, (and more of a concern) the nosewheel mounting block is only held on by 4 wood screws. A couple of not so graceful landings and it can be pretty well guaranteed that the screws will tear out of the ply firewall. So I will remove the screws, drill out the holes and fit blind nuts. Then will substitute cap screws to hold the block in. Other than that and for the price paid, it is very good value for money.
Posted on: 1/20/2008 5:00 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6937250

RE: BH T28 Trojan ARF
Actually it probably will be the smaller one. I have one of the new MVVS 4.6/840Kv Outrunner's coming from fellow RC Universe member, Dar Zeelon and the smaller BH T-28 looks an ideal candidate for a "home" for this motor.
Posted on: 1/19/2008 4:06 PM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6934390

RE: BH T28 Trojan ARF
Well, your excellent video has sold me yellowred. Thanks for taking the time to post it. It's now a matter of deciding which of the 2 sizes of the T-28 that BH makes, to purchase.
Posted on: 1/18/2008 10:35 PM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6931146

RE: T-28 Fun
Looks good Merlin. How does it handle aerobatics?
Posted on: 1/9/2008 6:06 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6878520

RE: Shelf life of an ARF
I have several ARF's that have been stored since the mid 1990's. (Actually and literally, under my bed) I get them out and open them up from time to time for inspection, (when it's time to move the bed and vacuum around under there.) All are still in "fresh from the hobbyshop" condition.
Posted on: 1/9/2008 6:03 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6878519

RE: OS .46 or Super Tigre G-51
into a trainer. As for the .46 v .51 question? Well, my ST G.51's (I have 3) spin 11 x 7 props on 2% nitro
Posted on: 1/4/2008 9:57 PM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6855466

RE: BH T28 Trojan ARF
Any flying reports on this model?
Posted on: 1/4/2008 7:31 PM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6854669

RE: VMAR L4 Gashopper experience?
I have had their L-19 Bird Dog for 2 1/2 years now. I would think that the L-4 is very similar in both construction and flying characteristics. The L-19 flies like a small J3. Handles moderate wind o.k. It actually makes a very good trainer. Very slow and a very relaxing way to finish off a days flying, especially if you have been flying some quick models. It is no aerobat by the way. Stall turns and bad loops are about all it can do with any authority. Forget neat axial rolls, it does ugly slow rolls and looses a lot of height while doing them. Mine was one of the 1st release series and came with motor, ESC, 9 x 6 SF Prop, 3S1P 2000 Ma/H Lipo and 4 servo's. The Lipo swelled after 3 flights but since I had 4 more Polyquest packs of the same size and C rating, it was no big deal. Later release models had a slightly different Kv motor and needed to use an 8 x 6 SF prop, even though VMAR still included a 9 x 6 prop in the box. Pay particular attention to the servo tray. I have seen them split through flexing, (with subsequent loss of model) I reinforced the tray in mine by cutting a sheet of identical size light ply or balsa CROSS GRAIN to the tray and epoxying it to the underside of the tray, then cut out the servo slots. I also removed all the crappy VMAR supplied electrical connectors and replaced them with Hyperion ones. As I said, mine is 2 1/2 years old and is still going strong. No breaks or fried electrics. I get around 20 minutes flight per Lipo pack, just doodling around on 1/2 throttle.
Posted on: 12/4/2007 10:48 PM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6715088

RE: tomahawk 50 size prop jet, retract ready?
Isaac, A guy down in Texas is the importer. Try him at: info@vqwarbirds.com Incidentally, its still shown on the VQ Factory website, but not on his. Its' available down under for around US$190-$200. Should be cheaper in the USA.
Posted on: 11/4/2007 2:09 PM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6579545

RE: VQ P-40 Maiden Flight
I finally got a hold of one- an AVG version. (Only been waiting for them to appear downunder for around 20 months.) It should arrive next Thursday. Power will be either an ASP .91 4 stroke or a Laser 100. I have both. Just gotta put the $$ aside for a pair of CJ Retracts. In the meantime I will start on the fine paint detail. I do hope that the OZ distributor has actually gotten hold of the version with the updated sharkmouth decal.
Posted on: 11/3/2007 4:31 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6574511

RE: Kyosho Calmato 40 Sports assembly thread
I built a British FLAIR Models AT6 around 8 years ago, and covered it with Ultracote. I also applied Balsaloc (sold also as Balsarite- Tower Hobbies have it) to the inside of the edges before using the covering iron. After all the trim, decals etc had been applied, I sprayed the whole model with 2 coats of LustreKote Clear (Gloss) , paying particular attention to the LE's of both the horizontal and vertical Stabs and the wings and have not had a problem with any covering lifting off the model. Not saying that this will be a guaranteed fix, but its worth considering during the building stage of any ARF.
Posted on: 11/1/2007 2:19 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6566107

RE: CMP P-26
Squadron Signal Books have an edition on the P26. It does have line drawings inside showing the position of panel lines etc, but as triflyer says, what it will also show is just how far removed from scale this model actually is. Stand Off Scale would be a better description. The 2 most noticeable differences are the depth of the cowl (or Townend Ring as it is referred to in the Squadron Signal book) and the spacing of the main undercarriage. As for the screws to hold the "bits" on. Try nylon screws instead of the metal self tappers. You will have to drill and tap into a small piece of plywood underneath, but nylon will not vibrate out (the screw actually stretches under load and locks into place.)
Posted on: 7/27/2007 2:16 AM by Author "Woody 51" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6162008