RE: Max Amp Draw Through JR 9100 Receiver
Not sure what rx you have as there's not a JR9100 rx. Kind of immaterial in some respects as all the Spektrum/JR 2.4GHz rx's which are 9 channel and above can take a continous 35 amps and burst to 50 amps. The issue with the AR-9000/R921/R1221 is getting enough power into the rx as those only have standard servo lead type connectors. The AR-9100/R922/R1222 have the dual 16g inputs with EC-3 connectors. So you're fine there, the question would be how are you going to supply the 10th servo? Running two big digitals on some kind of Y-harness or something could be problematic as a 20g wire, gold plated pins servo size connector is only good for about 4 amps continous and 6 amps or so for a burst.
Posted on: 11/20/2009 9:31 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9267260

RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
[quote]ORIGINAL: CaptRKO No worries I competed in TOP GUN (1997) TEAM SCALE placed 4th. My flying speaks for myself, I was never a builder as I had ZERO interest. In fact my R/C flying led to FULL SCALE aerobatic competition (Flying a Extra 300S N65EX and N9K-I sold the latter one to Red Bull) I owned a 40% Comp-ARF Extra 300S that they painted like my full scale. I have been out of the hobby for several years. I was walking my dog a few weeks ago, and came across an R/C field, I got the urge again so here I am. Sooo...the reason I am on here asking questions is so your last sentence doesn't happen! CLEAR AS MUDD AMIGO? [/quote] Well if you wanna compare resume's we can do that; I also have a Commercial ticket and A&P licenses as well. One see's quite a few mechanics who get pilot licenses, but d*mn few pilots who get the mechanic licenses. In fact most pilots don't give hoot about learning what keeps their butt in the air. Indeed, I wouldn't turn most of 'em loose even for the few maintenance things the FAA says an owner can do to his full scale. There's a reason for that....[8|] There's nothing wrong with just wanting to fly and I've met a number of IMAC guys who do just that and don't have much of a clue about what it takes to assemble and setup a model. One of 'em I know and really like is reasonably well known and does pretty well in IMAC circles, won't even try to put a foamie together, he get's 'em from the same guy who builds/sets up his IMAC birds. What's wrong here is that there are so many little things that you need to decide on what you want to do and various things to check which you can read about, but until you've actually gone through the process with someone or at least had the benefit of videos, it's mostly Greek. Like reading the manual on a new digital camera; eventually you can make it work but someone who knows the camera can show you how it works in about ten minutes vs. the hours you'll spend with the manual and experimenting. The difference being the camera isn't going to wind up in a pile of balsa a few seconds into it's Maiden useage like the model can. We can talk here about things like engine thrust angles, tuning, prop selection, servos, linkage geometry, wiring, switches, batteries, hinge choies, gap seals, fuel tank setup and location, wing and horizontal stab incedence, CG location, hardware selection and so on. Then there's radio setup; you first said you were a Futaba guy, now you're talking about JR. They both work but the programming is substantially different, rx locations and install practices are different, capabilities are different and so on. While this is quite a list of things to do, it certainly isn't all of it and some decisions have to be made based on what you want as there are many ways to accomplish some things and most folks have their own preferences on the variables involved. As ram has already said; much of what you need is already in the thread. If you can't find enough interest or time to at least scan through thread before you start asking someone to hold your hand through the entire learning process, I suggest you resume your search for a builder.
Posted on: 11/19/2009 9:17 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264858

RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
CaptRKO, Not to be condescending, but from the nature of your questions and your original post about not being a builder and wanting someone to assemble the model, you're in over your head......[8|] While there isn't anything difficult about putting Patty together, that assumes some experience prior to tackling a 50cc gasser and the lessons learned from assembling, setting up and test flying smaller less sophisticated models is usually taken for granted when we start answering questions about her. You need a builder or at least someone to look over your shoulder, or this is going to turn out badly....[:o]
Posted on: 11/18/2009 11:01 PM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9264210

Website hiccups....
Hey Tom, I sent a guy over to your website so he could look for a DL engine. When I checked the engine page, there's no pics showing up and if you click on the "X'd" out square for a larger pic you get a warning about no pic, bad address etc. Thought this would be the easiest way to mention it to you....
Posted on: 11/18/2009 10:16 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262576

RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
You can also try: http://www.wildharerc.com/
Posted on: 11/18/2009 8:18 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9262365

RE: ys 140 valve tappet clearance
Oops..... Must write that carbon question off to a possible brain f*rt or not enough coffee when I responded....[:)]
Posted on: 11/17/2009 9:11 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259847

RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
Well I'll try and talk you out of it.... In the first place, Patty being one of the first ARF's out there, fully sheeted and overbuilt, she's pretty corpulant compared to her later 50cc class birds. There are two good things about that; she flies lighter than her wing loading would suggest and she's tough being able to survive bad landings which might tear the landing gear out of one of the newer, lighter ARF's. That said and all due respect to other's opinions; ain't no way I'd put a 60cc size 4.7lb. (bare) engine on her nose. From Tower's website on the Fuji 64: Displacement: 3.85 cu in (63.1cc) Practical RPM Range: 1100-9000 Output: 5.7hp @ 9000 RPM Weight: 5.25 lbs (2,383 g) with muffler 4.68 lbs (2,126 g) without muffler Recommended Propeller: 24x10 (TOPQ5270) Also, there's no way in h*ll it's ever going to be spinning 9000 RPM so those performance figures are unreliable. So you can write that off. Then check out the gas engine support forum for threads on Fuji engines, you may change your mind. Now unless you're some kind of magician or have a scale with "some calibration error", there's no way you'll get her in under about 16 1/2 or 17lbs with a 3lb. engine and she flies pretty well at that weight. While I"m not quite ready to try the DLE's yet, there are a number of 'em running around here, or at least the older 50cc's and they seem to do a good job. It's a chunk lighter than the Fuji, the power ratings show at 7500 RPM (which is still a bit on the high end of what you'll see but attainable) and from what I've seen around here and on the forums, the guys like 'em. From Tower's wesite on the DLE-55: Output: 5.5 hp @ 7500 rpm Best-performance rpm range: 1350-8500 rpm Displacement: 3.4 cu in (55.6 cc) Engine weight: 2.9 lb (1310 g) Muffler weight: 3.5 oz (100 g) Ignition weight: 3.9 oz (110 g) Requires: 4.8 - 6V battery for ignition, 93-octane gasoline, 2-cycle oil, Prop As for rear carb vs. side; well that's a whole 'nuther argument but I'll say that you'll need standoffs so it's not a big issue, throttle/choke servo setup is easier and your less likely to have any possible issues with turbulent airflow affecting the carb's atmospheric reference port. I fly Spektrum/JR radios and won't even run Futaba servos anymore, so I won't go there on the radio question. JMHO, YMMV....[:)]
Posted on: 11/16/2009 4:16 PM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9258245

RE: ys 140 valve tappet clearance
Hmm..... Carbon build up on the valve or seat?????
Posted on: 11/16/2009 9:43 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "YS Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9257392

RE: Hangar 9 60 size corsair arf
[quote]ORIGINAL: skillet92 Actually Zeb that is a GREAT article. I plan on using it to help me with all of my planes. I have some 50cc stuff that i can see, after reading, will be helped by applying some of the articles thoughts. As for the the weight issue I had a lot of dead weight up front on the Corsair because of the short nose. So going to the gas on this particular plane was an easy decision. Now I also have the TF Mustang that I put an OS 110A in and it is Just right. There are engines for every plane it is just what you are looking for. In the Corsair I figured if I had to have weight it might as well be power[:D] [:D][:D] [/quote] Well it's a great starting place to figuring out what's going on and needs to be changed. It's easy to get confused about what's happening and what is needed to correct the undesirable characteristic. Funny you should mention a 50cc size as that's the model size which gave me fits with something similar to what you've described. Whe I got it sorted out, it was a combination of the CG being off a bit and the engine needed a touch of down and right thrust. But I didn't discover that until I'd chased the thrust angle thing till I was blue in the face and it still wasn't flying right....[:o] It was pretty important to me that it fly decent as I'd replaced another 50cc size bird with this one and it's the one I fly most since it fits in my Cherokee without having to drag out the trailer, and it's a lot easier to navigate around the house than the bigger models. OH, just so you don't think I'm just stirring up the pot; I do have one of these Corsairs but ran out of amibition once I got the wing modified for the CJ retracts and glass re-enforced, or I got side tracked by IMAC, not sure which but in any event the wing is on the wall and the fuselage is sitting in a box on a shelf. It'll be running a YS-110 swinging a Graupner 14x7 three blade if I ever get around to finishing it, maybe this winter????? lol
Posted on: 11/1/2009 9:59 PM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221395

RE: Hangar 9 60 size corsair arf
[quote]ORIGINAL: Pit-Viper 1 I have converted 2 60 size warbirds to gas and they both fly wonderfully. Shane [/quote] Well since Warbirds run a wing loading which is typically 50% higher than a sport/aerobatic model, far be it from me to suggest that installing an engine which with it's ignition unit, battery and muffler weighs 50% more than the recommended glow engine not to mention the fact that it puts out less power unless it's running on a full tuned pipe.... but if you're happy with it that's all that counts. That being said, when an engine change produces the drastic change in flight characteristice as noted, it might seem logical to "assume" it's an engine thrust angle issue. It may very well be, but chasing engine thrust angles without eliminating the other possible causes like a CG issue, or angle of attack with the horizontal stab, vertical stab or wing is short sighted. Trimming a model for competition is almost a science with the IMAC guys as precision aerobatics will show faults a lot quicker than flying bomber patterns around the field with an occasional roll or loop thrown in the mix. One quickly learns when trying to flight trim an IMAC model that each is an individual, even the same model from the same manufacturer will wind up with different setups due to manufacturing tolerances, ergo what works on your model may not work on the OP's model. That's why it's important to start from scratch and eliminate other possible issues. Peter Goldsmith is well respected among the GS aerobatic community and his trimming article including thrust angles is widely distributed and well thought of in the aerobatic community. While a Warbird doesn't need to be setup like an IMAC bird, the information in the article I pointed the OP at will serve to help figure out where the issue is with his model. Should he choose to avail himself of it.....[8|]
Posted on: 11/1/2009 9:12 PM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221248

RE: Hangar 9 60 size corsair arf
Well I'll refrain from commenting on the wisdom of installing a gasser in a .60 size Warbird, but point you in this direction..... http://www.flagstaffflyers.com/images/PGoldsmithTrimming.pdf
Posted on: 11/1/2009 8:12 PM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9221085

RE: New Funtana 125
Hmmm..... Don't usually play with glow models anymore but I've still got a Funtana 90 with a YS-110 on it that's kind of fun to get out every so often and it's getting tired, so I've been watching this thread. The overweight/aft CG issue has been around since I put the 90 together; same advertised weight and they usually came out about what you're seeing i.e. somewhere in the 9 to 9 1/2lb range. Some folks claimed they got 'em lighter, but I don't see how that was really possible with the 90 other than possible scale errors....[8|] That said; mines got a pull/pull rudder system to get the third servo out of the tail for CG purposes, a 3oz. battery (1100 mah A123) and the YS is only 3 ounces heavier than the Saito 100 which the 90 called for. While it does have a really quite large CG range I can move just by playing with the battery, there is no extra weight added for balance and it's still 9lbs. I'd thought the newer Funtana models, especially this one, would have addressed these issues along with the airfoil concerns that the 100X was supposed to have fixed, but from your report it doesn't sound like anything in the all up weight/CG area has changed.
Posted on: 10/31/2009 10:59 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9217411

RE: DX-7
People with attitudes like yours combined with a bunch of lawyers running around telling folks they "deserve compensation" can account for most of the issue, besides the fact that the FCC says monkeying around with a radio transmitting device MUST be done by a certified entity. If you want the antenna replaced, send it in....[8|]
Posted on: 10/29/2009 11:34 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9212148

RE: GP Patty Wagstaff - Building & Flying
[quote]ORIGINAL: apalsson My LFS has advised me that the PW Extra has been discontinued. Is anyone aware of that? [/quote] Don't know 'bout "Down under" but Tower is still showing them in stock with no notes about limited availability or anything.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 11:27 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9205828

RE: How do I adjust the 9ZAP throttle stick?
Did you look under the grip on the side of the radio where the throttle/rudder stick is? I cranked up the tension on all my sticks and IIRC, it took me a bit to find one of 'em but don't remember which one????? Gettin old I guess.... lol I never took the back off mine once I saw pics of what it takes over on another forum, I agree with the statement that opening up a 9Z is not for the faint of heart having several boards, ribbon cables and not much room to work.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 11:24 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9205815

RE: Flight log
Well the other option is to do as I've set mine up; I have a separate charge lead made out of a servo extension and the power out wires on the batteries only have the pos/neg leads going to the HD charge/switches, then all three wires go to the two battery ports on my 9 channel rx's. That way I have outside access to both the Batt/Bind and Batt/Data ports. Some folks are just using Y-harnesses from the Batt/Data ports going to an Ernst jack on the outside of the fuselage if they want to charge through the switch, but as you've evidently already figured out you have to eliminate the signal wire from the switch to the rx if the discharge/charge lead from the battery are one in the same. That's assuming (I know I hate that word....) the signal lead is being used for the balance tap between the two cells for balance charging.
Posted on: 10/27/2009 11:08 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9205773

RE: Compsite ARF extra 260 crash.... trying to confirm the reason.
Without more details on the power system, i.e. batteries specifically it's hard to speculate more than to say guys running airborne data transmission stuff like the Eagle Tree are reporting 35% size (smaller than your 3.0 size) pulling up to 12 amps during a snap. Whether or not it was your PE shutting down is something others will have to answer/speculate on as I've never used those.
Posted on: 10/26/2009 9:53 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9202845

RE: How do I adjust the 9ZAP throttle stick?
It's been some time since I had a 9Z, but IIRC there are some black rubber plugs on the backside of the tx which are right above the tension adjustments and two of 'em are underneath the grips. I can't remember if it's in the manual but thought it was, if not suggest you check out the FAQ section of Futaba's website?????
Posted on: 10/26/2009 9:40 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9202823

RE: GROUP BUILD - Top Flite Giant Scale F4U Corsair
Nick, Take a look over on F L Y I N G G I A N T S (I have to ad the spaces since the RCU servers will strip out any reference to that website....) in the gas engine and DA support threads. There have been a number of issues with the 85's in the IMAC circles and there are a couple of them here in our club. Seems to have excellent power but they do vibrate quite a bit and DA still says you can't mount 'em on standoffs and the three guys I know who have 'em have all had deadsticks for reasons we can't determine. Theoretically the updates are supposed to have taken care of the issue with new pistons, con rods and I'm not sure but maybe a crank. Then there have been issues with the cylinder base gaskets, reed blocks and carb intake spacers. There were also a lot of initial reports about cracking spinners and not being able to keep mufflers on them although of the three around here, none have had the muffler issue running SlimLine muffs rather than the J-Tech's. However one of the guys went through three Tru-Turn spinners before getting the updates on his, seems to be fine since then. If I ever get to building mine, I've got a ZDZ-80 for it.... [8D] JMHO, but I think I'd either wait a bit and see if the updates do the trick or go with another engine.
Posted on: 10/18/2009 9:39 PM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9183913

RE: slow and fast idle
Well it's usually easiest to set your idle with the servo travel limits, then do either a throttle/throttle mix or use a throttle curve and assign it to a switch for a slightly higher idle speed. Not to be callous, but these are pretty basic operations and the 12X can do so many things I'm still finding out about it a year later. I suggest you get in the manual and play with the programming options. When you get to a certain point that you feel is close to what you want on a model, back it up to an empty slot so when you experiment you won't lose what you've already got. Only way you're gonna get comfortable with it is to use the thing and play with the options, backing it up makes it easy to recover from a screwup....[;)]
Posted on: 10/18/2009 8:57 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9182304

RE: Switching from DX7 to X9303
Also while the settings between the two radios will be very close, you'll need to verify the control responses afterward i.e. surface deflection angles, throttle settings, etc. Mine were really close between the DX-7, the X9303 and even my 12X but not exact.
Posted on: 10/17/2009 10:07 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180134

RE: Trouble Shoot this ...
Well when troubleshooting it's always best to eliminate as many variables as possible. As airbusdrvr has already suggested, most of these issues are user error but some hardware failures do occur. That said, if you put in the bind plug, power up the rx and don't get the rapidly flashing lights indicating the rx is ready to bind, you're wasting your time looking anywhere else before you resolve that issue....[8|]
Posted on: 10/17/2009 10:01 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9180127

RE: Can any 2.4 system work on my MSR?
What do you mean, which transmitters? If so, any Spektrum/JR DSM2 transmitter will operate the BNF MSR or RTF. The included radio equipment is Spektrum and will not work with any other brand of radio, nor will it work with a DX6 Spektrum transmitter since it is not DSM2.
Posted on: 10/15/2009 8:48 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9174873

RE: Track and confirm - USPS????
Your sig indicates Angola? I don't believe there is any tracking/confirm data available when you go overseas with USPS Priority. I think confirm works with Global Express, but you don't get enroute information as once it gets out of the USA it is handled by other carriers.
Posted on: 10/13/2009 11:22 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "E-Flite Helicopters"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9169503

RE: Spectrum Lock Loss problem
Well I've not really dug into it, but I was under the impression that the A123 cells were Korean manufacture? A couple of thoughts here and I have no idea if the eBay cells are genuine A123. The differences in the Lithium cells have to do with what other chemical they incorporate, i.e. a Li-Po is Lithium/Cobalt Oxide. I have no idea what the batteries known as Li-Ion acutally use, but those have a significantly lower discharge capability and are safer to handle than Li-Po. A123's are a Lithium/Iron Nano Phosphate. They are built with a patented NANO phosphate technology so if they aren't genuine A123, they will not perform the same. There are a number of copy-cat manufacturers trying to pass off a Lithium/Iron Phosphate as A123 and while those will work fine for flight packs, there is some indication on various forums of QA issues with these batteries. Generally, if offered by an honest manufacturer/vendor, this second type of Lithium/Iron Phosphate batteries are known as LiFEP04's. The difference is that the A123's can output a continuous 30C and burst to 60C while the LiFEP04's run about 10C continous output. One can usually quickly tell the difference by the mah rating with A123's coming in 1100 and 2300 ratings while the LiFEP04's will have either a 1200 or 2400 mah rating. Both types use the same charger software and come off the chargers at 7.2 volts quickly dropping to their 6.6 volt nominal rating and staying there for about 80% of their capacity. So you need an A123 capable charger to handle them, no regulators are required since they're just a touch above 5 cell NiMH or NiCD battery although some gas engines will not tolerate these voltages, most are fine. A123's can be charged at about as high a rate as you can get from your equipment, LiFEP04's should probably be restricted to a 10C charge rate if by chance your charging setup can even go that high. There are lots of threads on this forum and others about these batteries, do a few searches and you can find enough to keep you busy for a number of hours if you're interested..... ;)
Posted on: 10/11/2009 8:31 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9163337

RE: Spectrum Lock Loss problem
The other possible issue is that the Smart-Fly stuff requires that the rx power NOT go into the labeled "Batt" ports since their stuff generates a pulse on the signal lead and could cause the rx's to go into bind mode. Other than those few gasser ignition systems which are specifically voltage limited, I see no reason to use 4.8 volt batteries in gassers and the cell impedence can be a significant issue with NiMH batteries or Li-Ion's if you don't pay attention to what the max sustained and burst output capabilites are.
Posted on: 10/10/2009 8:40 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9161297

RE: 2-cylinder vs 4-cylinder
Didn't notice how old the thread was when I posted.....[8|]
Posted on: 10/9/2009 9:16 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9158803

RE: 50cc Canister question
Generally speaking..... Canisters will sometimes provide more power than an in cowl muffler due to less restriction of the exhaust but that depends on which in cowl muffler you are comparing them to as some in cowl mufflers are pretty low restriction while others are real corks to engine performance. The effect you see from tuned pipes isn't there so tune it like any other engine with an in cowl muffler. They are much quieter and may cause some consternation when you first fly as you can no longer hear the engine on downlines and such and will think it might have quit. They are more expensive, weigh more and take more work to install even if a canister tunnel is already present but they can usually be installed in almost any model if you have the inclination and skill to do it.... ;) Take a look at this thread just below yours for some disscussion on tuning with canisters, while not exactly your situation it has lots of input from some guys who know what they're doing with exhaust systems. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9047030/tm.htm
Posted on: 10/8/2009 11:15 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9156264

RE: RIP to all of Chip Hyde's planes! :(
Story I've seen over on another forum which cannot be mentioned here, is that it was the power supply he was using. That was one of those 12 volt car jump start deals. Can't vouch for the actual power supply as only one individual, who usually knows what he's talking about, has mentioned the 12 volt auto jumpstart deal but several postere on various other forums have mentioned it was the power supply. Being a retired firefighter, I'm 99% sure the local fire department has determined the exact cause but I've not seen anything posted about what the post fire investigation actually revealed.
Posted on: 10/7/2009 9:29 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9153498

RE: DX-7 Throttle question
Okay I'm not a 'lectric expert and I'm not familiar with that 85HV other than to say I've seen some folks having difficulties with that unit over on Castle's support forum at RC Groups, but I'll run what I can think of past you; There's been some updates from Castle for the Castle Link specifically related to the 85HV along with updated software for that ESC, not sure but IIRC it has to do mostly with using the governor mode on the heli's which includes throttle operation. There have also been some issues with smoked ESC's and the new software on the 85HV's. You may wanna touch bases with Castle about it? The other thing is that I went to the fixed endpoints on my CC 35 that's in my little electric heli after screwing around with the other possible setups, that just turned out to be the cleanest. Yes going down in pitch will decrease the load on the prop and should drop the amount of current draw you're seeing. Props are funny critters and when you get to trying to match things up for electrics or getting the best prop for a GS gasser, you just have to experiment to find the best prop for your setup and flying style. This is because props of the same size/pitch from different manufacturers will not perform the same, so you can get advice from folks about what works for them but you just have to try 'em to zero in on what will work best for you. Hope that helps.
Posted on: 10/6/2009 9:45 AM by Author "Zeeb" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9150795