|
RE: Anyone Own a Savage X?
Looks like the truck is in good shape! Good deal too. My roto start has never had an oring on it. I the rod keeps shaking out, it might be wear on the unit itself. The rotostart themselves are prone to a couple of problems, so I wouldn't blame you switching to pullstart. I'd prefer just to use a bumpbox on my Savage if I could! Wall chargers typically charge really slow. Even a cheap charger would be able to charge the rx and roto batt in under two hours combined...and that's going slow. It would be a dream if you could charge the rx batt without removing it, but you need the cable that plugs in to connect it to the truck, in order to charge the battery. The receiver box might be the biggest complaint about the Savage. After a few times, you'll get quick at opening the thing up. 2.4's can be tricky depending on the receiver. Just turn the truck tx and rx on and have friend stand with the truck. Keep walking while periodically going left to right and using the throttle. That's the best way to check to make sure you have good range. If it starts to twitch or not respond, you'll know you have to mess with the receiver. Some of the receivers require the antenna to be straight up and down. Haha, and I mean straight! Dump the gas from the tank. Other than that, it should be fine. You'll want to square the brake linkage away. Double check to see if you have a failsafe and a throttle return spring on there too! Never can have too many steps to prevent a runaway. Enjoy! -Mike
Posted on: 2/25/2012 9:40 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10976106
RE: old new fuel. Can i still use it?
Haha, no harm done Slayer. Everyone has a different way of doing things! -Mike
Posted on: 2/25/2012 9:26 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10976094
RE: batteries
Depends on how long you want them to last and how long you want to wait for them to charge them. If you want to cycle them, I would suggest 1C. So, 1200mah=1.2A. So for charging the batts, charge at that 1.2A. Discharging looks to be at 1A on that charger. A big thing is to let the batteries cool between each charge and discharge. You don't want the pack getting too hot. Charge one battery, then charger the other. Give the charger a break, and then discharge them both. Rinse and repeat. If you want to hot charge the pack, you can charge at 2C. This is popular before racing electric cars. This gives the packs more punch. It also makes them wear out faster. 1200mah=2.4As. I'd imagine these are receiver packs? In that case, I'd go with 1C. -Mike
Posted on: 2/25/2012 9:23 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10976093
RE: Savage X 4.6 running temp?
Nothing too bad with 280. I've always tried to aim for 240 myself as a general basher. It's a bit hot. I would try to find a guide on sealing the engine up. My engine needed sealing very shortly after break in and it solved the problem for years. The engine not being sealed properly also could be the problem you're having not shifting into second gear. -Mike
Posted on: 2/25/2012 9:10 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10976077
RE: Anyone Own a Savage X?
Battyone, I would suggest making that engine a bit more rich. The smoke should be a nice blue color. If you have temp gauge, make sure you're only hitting around 280 max. I shoot for 240 on my non-race engines. If you're racing, you might choose to run a bit hotter, but for just general bashing I'd keep it cool. It'll make the piston and sleeve last a whole lot longer! Jcmiller05, Glad you've joined the Savage crew! Only problem looks to be an easily solved one. Temp is okay! Keep enjoying it! I personally aim for 240 though. 1802, I think you need a new backplate as well. I've never converted mine over to pullstart though, plus I have .25. No hands on with the NS .21 I would suggest just buying a cheaper charger and using the rotostart to be honest. You're going to want a receiver battery in there before too long. AA's go pretty quick. Even a cheaper charger can be had for 50 bucks, and make your nitro life way cheaper in the long run. Converting over is going to cost about that anyway. The hobby requires a decent charger sooner or later! Just my opinion. Serpent, I love that mod. My NitroStar is broken it's seals again, so I've had everything I can deal with it. When I get a new engine this summer, I'm going to convert my Savvy in just this fashion. I love this. Thanks for the pics. -Mike
Posted on: 2/25/2012 9:02 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10976069
RE: old new fuel. Can i still use it?
Your problems with your engine sound like it's sucking air in. Sealing it up will likely solve much of the problem. Despite that, I wouldn't use fuel that has been open a year. I'd toss that out. As long as the never been opened fuel has been stored in a dry place, at the right temp, it could still be good. Considering the expense of the stuff, I would likely just throw it all out and replace it with new fuel though. At only 30 bucks a gallon, you're talking 100 bucks. When you're talking r/c's that's a drop in the bucket! -Mike
Posted on: 2/21/2012 8:54 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10970167
RE: Anyone Own a Savage X?
Congrats on the break in! It's always fun to get a new nitro up and running. Nothing like being able to pull that throttle all the way down and smelling that nitro! Sucks about the fuel man! Bigger engines can sure guzzle down that stuff real fast. Another thing you might consider getting is a temp gauge. It never hurts to makes sure your engine is hitting the right temps. I've never had all that many problems with my rotostart. My first one lasted years and years. Finally broke in the hands of my brother-in-law as he is getting hardcore in the hobby. The button on the rotostart just stopped working. Just bought a rotostart 2 on ebay for cheap to replace it. No worries. A question: What color is the smoke pumping out of the tuned pipe? -Mike
Posted on: 2/21/2012 8:47 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10970158
RE: THE Official HPI Savage Flux-HP Thread
Hey guys, finally picked a Flux up. I actually got it a couple months ago, but due to a tight schedule and the weather, I still haven't gotten it out yet! But I find myself on vacation down here in SC, and my Flux came with me! I plan to get it out within the next couple days. I'm running a 6S setup, so it should rip pretty good. I'll let you all know how it goes! -Mike
Posted on: 2/20/2012 8:50 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10968554
RE: Anyone Own a Savage X?
I was so happy to see this thread was revived! Spent alot of time on this thread quite a few years ago after getting my Sav .25 so many years ago. Good to see you're back online and in the hobby ashburg! Congrats on your purchase battyone! I bet you're pumped to really get it going. Have you read about the break-in procedure yet? You want to make sure you break that engine to ensure the engine has a good long life. You're going to want leave that glow plug in the engine. Make sure the plug isn't overtightened, but you're not going to want it cracked. Just make sure the plug is nice and snug. Otherwise, your engine will lose all sorts of compression. Make your truck even harder to start for the first time. Just fuel it up, cover the tuning pipe until the fuel just feeds into the carb. Then throw that glow ignitor and rotostart it up! You might have to play with the throttle a bit to get it to fire up. Doesn't hurt to have a second set hands around until you get a hang of it. Spare parts: Extra glow plugs. You'll burn one out during break in or shortly after. An extra one-way bearing is a big one. My first one started to slip shortly after break in due to being coated in oil. Spur gears don't hurt, I've melted a couple. Let me know if you need break in steps. My brother and I and have done a number of break ins and we have good results with our system. -Mike
Posted on: 2/20/2012 8:21 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10968528
RE: Cheapest place to buy body for Savage?
I would just buy a normal clear body for Savvy. About 30 bucks or so. Once you get it, just go pick up a can spray paint of the color of choice. Mask of the window's with painters tape if you want to keep them clear. Just spray a couple coats on the body, and viola you'll have a painted body for under 50 bucks. Might not be the best looking body in the world, but it'll be more than enough for a basher body. -Mike
Posted on: 2/20/2012 7:59 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10968502
RE: Charger for two 2s 35-75c 4000mah batteries
Hobby King is a great place to shop for some cheap rc stuff. In order to run that beast of a charger, you need a DC power supply. Problem is the watt requirement is pretty high. You'd be looking for a supply that can pump out that 400w...probably one something around 35 amps. There are other chargers on hobbyking that would require a whole lot less power that would make shopping for the power supply a bit easier. Your choice! -Mike
Posted on: 2/20/2012 7:43 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10968480
RE: Temps Warming Up = NITRO TIME!
Always nice to smell that sweet nitro burning isn't it? Something keeps calling me back to nitro despite my Flux. Glad you're back into it! As far as the AM radio goes, it would appear it was just older stock that came with the upgraded diff cases. You said it was brand new right? Check the box or instructions to see what radio it was supposed to come with. The battery seems to be a more confusing issue. Did you buy the battery brand new? If the issue continues, I would use a voltmeter to make sure the battery is taking a full charge and go from there. -Mike
Posted on: 2/18/2012 9:37 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "HPI Monster Truck Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10965388
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C. Part 2.
Hey guys! It's been a long time! I'm finally out for my semester so I'll have some time to post on my break. Lug, good to see you still around. Good old faithful T.E.C. surviving to see a part 2. I love it! Most recent purchase was a Savage Flux. Can't wait to get that thing out to rip. I still got patch my evader up. The shocks I bought for the thing are awesome, but are also the thing keeping me from running the beast my evader is. The shocks have little caps to hold in the oil...and one of them fell out. So I gotta mod something in there to fix it. Stupid little to problem to keep me from running my car that started it all. Nice to see the thread is still kicking it. Here's to another 800 pages. Have a good night all. -Mike
Posted on: 12/15/2011 11:00 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10861872
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
What's up guys? Okay, snow seems to be gone for good for the year now! So the r/c's are comin back out soon...damn afterrun oil in the nitros. That first start always smells so good tho. I gotta get my cap for my shock on my evader and I can get that out running again too. I believe I have my MM in there. I gotta find a new spot for my Team Checkpoint motor... Cheech! Duuude, it's been a long time since we were both online bro! How have you been doing???? Steel, I don't know how your ball diff is coming but I would totally dig on that cause an classic st is what I have. -Mike
Posted on: 4/23/2011 9:49 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10481355
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Steelgears, I'd considered a spool before but didn't really have the means. I'd be interested in that no doubt about it. I'd go steel all the way. Steel one for my brushless setup, and alum(if ever done) on for my Team Checkpoint light graphite evader. I dig it. DTX, figured you'd be going Slash 4x4 style, I love mine. I imagine transferring it over to evader chassis has it's own set of problems, but it'd be solid when you finish it. -Mike
Posted on: 2/24/2011 7:51 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10361835
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
If you're having problems with tires that balloon or more violently rip apart....I suggest strapping them. Next time you go to glue your tires or do your beadlocs, turn the tire inside out, and throw a few strips of duct tape all the way around the inside of the tire. Then continue the process like normal. Viola! DTX, let me know how that 4x4 goes. I've long considered making my evader 4x4. I'll be interested to see how it works for you. -Mike
Posted on: 2/23/2011 9:11 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10359448
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
haha...my Vader is...wow it's like a decade old now! Poor thing! Now I gotta check when I get home cause RPM's might be on mine XD. Hey I gotta give my Vader credit. I didn't have to do the tranny mod until a good many runs on BL power! I hadn't even touched the tranny for that time. Like 7-8 years? Don't ask me how it was functioning at all ;) -Mike
Posted on: 2/20/2011 10:56 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10351903
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Great list eightfingers. Looks awesome man. I've never had a problem with the ball cups but extra or RPMs couldn't hurt like airmayle said. New bodies are cool, just be sure to have some lexan cutters. Cause that stuff is tough! I plan to start airbrushing and anodizing alum this summer. If I can get a reliable place set-up to do it, you guys might see some pics of some bodies and chassis as I start to get better at them. Oh and for waterproofing. I just put the electronics into a water balloon and zip tie the end most of the time. -Mike
Posted on: 2/20/2011 10:39 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10351890
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
oh yea i like the nitro cvs. Haha, you've done good man. That'll be a good day when that package arrives. I can't think of anything else as long as you have some tire glue, any connectors for batts, motors, escs to make them work together and you'd be set man. 'Till the next order of course. -Mike
Posted on: 2/19/2011 9:19 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10349259
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Yea those look good. Ribs are great for simple fronts, plus you can't go wrong with proline -Mike
Posted on: 2/19/2011 8:30 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10349173
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Rims should work. Nice chrome! :) Rear tires are solid, but the front tires I'm not so sure about. One of the links are for Short Course Trucks, so I believe those are going to be a bit too narrow for your rims. The other link is for front buggy tires which are even narrower. No need for the drifter right away. Enjoy the evader for awhile man! It's a fantastic beginners truck and a solid truck in its own right. -Mike
Posted on: 2/19/2011 7:32 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10349048
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
I'd just go with regular plastic man. It's cheaper...and while I won't say I find graphite to be WAY weaker, it usually isn't as strong as most nylons. The advantage you get from graphite is that it's lighter. Better for racing, worse for bashing. Hingepins are a good call. I've bent a few of those until I got the now impossible to find titanium hinge pins for it. I'd say keep your eye on ebay and see if a set of the titanium comes up. If they do...buy em! Other than that your tranny mod looks straight. The idler gear is the exact same. Either should work for ya. -Mike
Posted on: 2/19/2011 6:51 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10348961
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
[quote]ORIGINAL: cumquat [quote]ORIGINAL: Ziggmiester Solid frame so far cumquat. Reminds me of how a on-road chassis is set up. Holes in the chassis to reduce weight and all. May I suggest a lexan undertray? because with holes in a chassis like that...if you run off road, dirt or sand, you're going to have a lot of debris going right up into your car with your electronics(more of a problem
Posted on: 2/19/2011 3:10 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10348490
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Solid frame so far cumquat. Reminds me of how a on-road chassis is set up. Holes in the chassis to reduce weight and all. May I suggest a lexan undertray? because with holes in a chassis like that...if you run off road, dirt or sand, you're going to have a lot of debris going right up into your car with your electronics(more of a problem with 4WD, but 2 is enough). You could even just screw some holes into the steel and throw a sheet all along the bottom of the chassis. Lightweight, tough. I like the sounds of it. Steel can be an eighth and get away with it too. Should be more than tough enough. I look forward to when you have the truck in front of you. eightfingers, haha, small world. not too much going on in our area. I most of the time just drive with my bro. But we are lucky enough(kinda) to have a fairly big hobby shop near us. Walts if you haven't been there yet. They actually have a track. Used to be an dirt oval for buggys and ST's but they tore it down in favor of a carpet oval. I don't know any drifters yet, but me and my bro are interested in checking them out. One of the few areas of R/C one of us doesn't have a model in. Ha. Have any interest in nitros? -Mike
Posted on: 2/18/2011 9:56 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10347179
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Nah not being sarcastic. Whats the construction of the chassis that you're looking at? Two strips like that down either side of the truck? -Mike
Posted on: 2/18/2011 6:23 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10346740
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
haha, if you're looks at hollowing the steel out or making it quite a bit thinner than the nylon chassis, I don't see why it wouldn't work with a solid BL setup. Even better if you could fit bigger packs in there. Evader with a Monster Mamba Max anyone? 6S....its a bullet, its a plane, its an....r/c car? Not only would you be losing the weight of solid thick steel but it'd also be very tough. Something I hope you keep us T.E.C. guys up to date on! I'd say to get some aftermarket shocks on there...electric evader shocks won't put up with a nitro trucks weight for long. half inch of steel is still considerable tho when you're talking chassis. If you can slim it down to 4-5 lbs...very well could be a solid product. -Mike
Posted on: 2/18/2011 5:07 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10346565
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
[quote]ORIGINAL: eightfingers I have checked out your site and even bookmarked it :) Although it confuses me alot, being a rc noob and all. What needs to be done for the car to be practically bulletproof, your recommended upgrades? [/quote] I don't see steel being practical. Yea it'd be tough, but that would be one heavy truck. You'd really need a powerful brushless system along with li-po to even propel that truck to decent speeds(granted by then, with steel you'd have more weight, therefore more traction=more power to the ground), but off a ramp? If you want to jump the thing, steel won't be advantageous. The thing will bottom out when the car hits the incline. The shocks won't stop that much weight going upwards all of a sudden. I feel bad for the shock shafts already. Plus, that's going be expensive. Alum will bend and it would be pricey. It would be tougher than the nylon perhaps, but bends will happen and then you're looking at 20 40 bucks to replace an arm instead of 5. My recommendation: Stick with the plastic man. It's the lightest(besides graphite and carbon fiber), least expensive when you break parts, and still pretty tough to boot. Also remember...your truck is only as strong as your weakest part. So when you break an arm and buy a steel arm...then the hingepins will bend, or your hub will crack or it'll crack your chassis. So you replace all that with steel and titanium pins...and then it just continues from there. I think you'd be best by buying an RPM bumper, and if you really want to spend some money, buy some new shocks, and invest in some RPM nylon arms or whatever you can find. -Mike
Posted on: 2/18/2011 3:12 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10346272
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
[quote]ORIGINAL: capsuleguy OK another newbie question. Or should I say, set of questions. First, on our EXT2, the braking is fair, but I don't know how good it should be. It does not lock up the wheels if I throw it into reverse hard. Hence the reasone we have hit so many curbs and other hard objects.... Perhaps we need to tighten the slipper? Next, reverse is no where near as strong as forward, and it struggles sometimes to even start in reverse. On the ESC, what do the lights mean? it is green at idle, then goes off and the both come on at full throttle. We had a problem with our motor the other day. We hit the trigger and the motor did nothing. Finally, we spun the tires by hand and the motor started.  It seemed like the motor was kind of stuck. It ran fine the rest of the battery, but then tonight the motor would not even try to turn. This is a new truck with only about a dozen or so batteries on it. I sprayed some brake cleaner on the brushes and after some time of fooling around, I stuck a battery directly on the motor leads and it started. It now seems to work, but it does not always seem to get up to full song. Isn't it too soon to have worn out a motor? Do you need to use special cleaner or will brake clean work OK? Do you have to lube the motor? I think I will get a 27T motor mentioned earlier, but it seem odd that we are already having motor problems... Also, with the 7 cell battery, the motor gets really hot while we are bashing. Shouldn't it take a 7 cell on the stock photon motor without regearing? Thanks for your time. [/quote] I think that your motor is probably having some problems. I think that replacing it would probably be the best course of action. Way back, my Evaders Photon failed VERY quickly, very similar to the problems you seem to be having. Being my first car, brought it to the LHS, he said it was the ESC. Bought a new ESC and didn't fix a thing. Then I had to buy a new motor and problem was solved.
Posted on: 2/17/2011 2:20 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10343645
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
Hey, those packs look solid. And besides, part of this hobby is buying parts and acc regardless of what the best deal or best item is. I think you got a good deal on those batts. When I was buying NiMh I had to spend like 80 to 100 bucks for what you got! per batt! You'll be plenty happy with them. You can upgrade your esc, I agree with the lug, going with an esc that can run both brushed and brushless motors makes sense. A sidewinder is a good start. The only problem I see is I doubt you're going to see much of a difference in braking power between esc. I think it's more of an issue of getting your new tires. More traction will stop that truck a whole lot better. John, I will temp my spur and stuff when I get my Evader back out for the season. A question...what do you tend to run the evader on? I imagine you are right...it either melted because the slipper. Or gear mesh. I run a MM and I haven't had a problem with spurs. I had to do the diff/tranny mod a few months after I went BL and Lipo, but I consider myself lucky there. -Mike
Posted on: 2/16/2011 4:20 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10341276
RE: The Evader Coalition ~ T.E.C.
If you have a soldering iron/station and are comfortable with one, you should just cut the leads on the batt and esc and make it a full on deans or traxxas plug. Just buy male and female ends packages. If you use a connector like that, you're still going to have the tamiya plug as a heat weak point. That connector would be used for your charger. I personally use Traxxas on my lipos and have never had a problem with them. I used deans for a long time and didn't have a problem with those. A few tamiya plugs melted together on me though. I'd say if you're on a budget just stick to NiMh for now. When you shift to lipo, you're looking at a considerable investment if you have to upgrade the ESC and probably a brushless motor. When it comes to batts...you get what you pay for usually. You can pick up venoms and duratraxx 5000 for 40 bucks and they are solid packs. But I wouldn't go much cheaper than that. I personally run Losi Smashers for tires on my Evader. I'd def say to give hobbyking.com a look. It's all cheaper stuff, but I have a couple lipos from there that rip in my slash 4x4. And I think I only paid like 25 a pop for them. JMHZ, what is your setup in your evader right now? -Mike
Posted on: 2/15/2011 8:59 PM by Author "Ziggmiester"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10339526
|
