RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
I guess I forgot to post this here... A while ago a buddy of mine bought a 1/16th slash VXL I was there for it's "baptism by fire" I was the one who pointed him towards the 1/16 traxxas stuff, he went with the revo. Since then a buddy of mine and I both got the mini slash. (no video of those yet but we will inevitably shoot some, hopefully with better driving/footage) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fZpBvTJWTYQ
Posted on: 11/3/2009 7:54 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9226198

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
[quote]ORIGINAL: mval9188 my 18r is having a problem with steering when i turn one way it resets back to normal steering position and then when i turn the other way the steering does not reset to normal position it kinda gets stuck in that position. I called up team associated and we did some trouble shooting they claim in to be something wrong with the radio but I dont think so. So they are sending me a new radio. Do you guys have any ideas to what the problem may be? [/quote] Sounds just like a tired, dirty servo saver to me... If you take the servo out of the car, put an arm on it (to check center) then steer it right and left, does it behave the same way? If not, your servo saver is dirty, you have the end points too far out (servo saver stretches every time you steer to end point, saver gets stuck and the wheels stay pointed in one direction. It is not uncommon at all for this to happen in one direction only (only gets stuck on one side)
Posted on: 11/3/2009 4:37 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9225710

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
It's all a question of balance... what's good for an 18t truggy with fat tires isn't for a 18R and vice versa. I too was having heat issues with a 8000kv in a 18T no matter how i'd gear it. cell count is also critical... the 18R with it's smaller wheels can make good use of very high KV on 2S packs. Quick survey; how many of you believe two identical size motors with different KV ratings have different torque figures?
Posted on: 10/29/2009 11:09 AM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9212096

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
Simple, you had the wrong gearing on your 6800 and it turned out to be correct for your 4100. Take a 6800 and a 4100 and gear them so they both have equal top speeds; (gear the 6800 down and the 4100 up) the 6800 will be EASIER To drive and deliver more torque to the wheels as it's multiplied instead of divided. p.s. get off your pedestal
Posted on: 10/29/2009 9:02 AM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9211859

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
depends... 4100kv on a 3 cell lipo will be considerably faster than the stock setup, and gearing is extremely important as well. One could easily gear a 6800 to run as slow as a 4100, and wind up multiplying the torque in the process. But you were on the right track. I run a 8900kv on 2 cells, use a 60T spur and a 14T pinion. Ridiculously fast but still quite drivable, of course it took me a while to get everything working together in harmony. (great power needs great control)
Posted on: 10/28/2009 7:40 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9210502

RE: Precision Aerobatics Katana MD Build and Fly
I can't see drilling/removing material improving things really. Funny I also have a left one that's slightly fractured (hard landing long time ago) I have spares sitting around but in hundreds of other landings the slightly stress factured strut lives on. It's not even visible but you can feel the flex. I'm just careful with it. How many times have you broken these?? They are pretty tough, tougher than my aluminum eflite 260's LG for sure, no contest. Something has to give at some point better be an LG strut than anything else if you ask me.
Posted on: 10/24/2009 12:17 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9198428

RE: Precision Aerobatics Katana MD Build and Fly
That's wierd, let's give them another day. I might be able to hook you up, if you were sitting in the cockpit ready for take off, is it the left one or right one that's broken?
Posted on: 10/21/2009 10:40 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9192291

RE: Precision Aerobatics Katana MD Build and Fly
Hey "Valvez" How have you been? Still enjoying my 2nd MD, flew it just this Sunday. Good times... Messed up bad on a landing eh? Well, it's happened to me before no shame there. I don't think aluminium would be any stronger unless it's really thick in which case it would be heavy and threaten to damage the fuse. I suggest you just get a pair of replacement struts from PA usa, when you visit the PA site, just click your flag and shop till your credit card says "mercy". The 260 and AMR struts do NOT fit the MD. Sorry I can't help with other alternatives as I haven't tried any myself.
Posted on: 10/20/2009 10:51 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9189718

RE: Precision Aerobatics Katana MD Build and Fly
Tight enough to sound like a bass guitar's big string when plucked, if it sounds like a banjo loosen it up a notch! Seriously though; this stuff does not stretch, so it has to be snug but not so tight as to load up the bearing on the servo horn too much.
Posted on: 10/12/2009 3:42 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9167106

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
[quote]ORIGINAL: klaze Against everyone's opinion I installed the Dynamite C4 9200 motor in my RC18 and it's sick! tons of Torque and the speed increase over the reedy 7800 is incredible. It's also very easy to control.. [/quote] Well, i'm not everyone, depending on gearing, vehicle, tires, intended use etc. My KV recommendation might just be "go big or go home" but it's not the answer for everyone.
Posted on: 9/3/2009 11:08 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9068482

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
[quote]ORIGINAL: halls what all does a guy need to make his 18R a 18 t? thanks jim [/quote] Arms, turnbuckles wheels, either dogbones and axles or cvd's 2 rear shocks. Body posts and body post/shock mounts Can't think of anything else at the moment.
Posted on: 8/6/2009 11:21 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8996541

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
[quote]ORIGINAL: lancer123 retail $150 135? buy used online rolling chassis w/ no electronics or build your own . 3racing chassis -$45 tires - $13 gear box $5 body$10 esc/motor combo brushless - $100 build your own diffs snd its like $200 + to build oyur own almost racer rc18r [/quote] I'm afraid there's a lot more than meets the eye... bearings, shaft, cvd/s axles, body mounts, bumpers, hinge pins, c hubs, hubs, ball studs, screw set, steering bellcrank, turnbuckles, A-arms, pinion gear, spur gear, motor mount plate, motor mounting screws, the list goes on and on... Better off going RTR and then buying what you want to improve upon on a per-needs basis my 0.02
Posted on: 8/4/2009 10:10 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8990705

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
What kind of bearings are you running? I can usually get away with a good parts cleaner bath and scrub to flush the crap out then re-oil at least 1-2 times before I retire "upgrade" bearings, even the stock ones in pitiful condition could benefit from a clean and lube.
Posted on: 7/3/2009 8:56 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8904569

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
Hehe I ALWAYS make that sound with my mouth when I take it apart and put it back together [:D]
Posted on: 7/2/2009 3:28 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8901333

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
All my ends have holes in them; I either drill a hole in them or cut off the top of the ball to make a hole at the center that way I have nothing to pry apart when I do maintenance/repairs. I got this nifty screwdriver with all kinds of bits including 1.5mm hex and I can dissassemble/reassemble the car faster than a nascar pit crew [:D]
Posted on: 7/2/2009 3:19 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8901309

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
Welcome aboard Chris687! Sounds like you've got the RC bug. I'm sure a steep enough hill increases top speed on the way down but you will feel it on the way back up. I hopup the RC cars, this is in fact the only one I have at the moment. The planes are "stock", when you build and equip a plane right in the first place there is nothing you can do to improve upon it really. (other than trims, mixes and expo tweaking, and working on your flying) I'm an RC nutjob, this RC18R is really an exception though. I mostly drive when I can't fly. If you want to see what I've been up to in the air lately check out my vimeo channel below. I think my favorite planes of the bunch are my Ultimate AMR and that EPP foamy that I can fly with complete disregard and zero consequences. http://www.vimeo.com/user511738/videos
Posted on: 7/2/2009 1:04 AM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8899883

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
cut tabs on servo sides, shoe goo horn end down on desired chassis location... That's pretty much it. Not that I condone that sort of thing lol
Posted on: 7/2/2009 12:14 AM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8899800

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
2 ounces of ballast on my ride? heck no. This thing is gram shaved to the extreme. You should see it go! Now with the B body it's the lightest it's ever been, when I stick a 1320 prolite 2s in there and have the body on, RTR it's still 6 grams lighter than my friend's car WITHOUT a battery in it. [:D] I can't wait for both of us to settle on the best gearing and both use the same to really compare fairly but so far I am handing him his "censored" so badly it's ridiculous.
Posted on: 7/1/2009 10:59 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8899581

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
I think he is using a metal replacement part only (never worked for me) and has a tie wrap going over it to further tighten it, says it's not that tight so it moves from side to side under load but I have my doubts on the reliability of such a contraption having done similar things to a 18T in the past. I suggest he might want to try swapping the contraption with the stock plastic spring and see if it at least centers right. I use only the plastic springs but I change them regularly because they fatigue and become weak.
Posted on: 7/1/2009 6:42 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8898890

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
[quote]ORIGINAL: Mousesi2k Upper deck is shimmed so its not rubbing there. The pivot joint has bearings and is smooth as ice so not that either. It feel really really slugish and is struggling to get back to center. Gonna rip it all down again and see if i cant fix it. If not, an all new steering setup is on its way already. New servo, new servo saver, new draglink etc. [&:] [/quote] What are you using for servo saver? Sounds like road grime is causing a lot of friction in there causing it to chase center as it eratically sticks and unsticks. Pull each part of it off, clean thoroughly and put back on. The plastic ones wear and become "sticky" and they sometimes need to be replaced even if they aren't broken.
Posted on: 7/1/2009 2:12 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8898137

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
no way man! Still selling... Check on Ebay for average asking prices and put an add on the market place competitively priced I'm sure someone will take it off your hands. Hmmm... If it's not too late to change my answer; yeah it's totally obsolete no-one in their right minds would buy that off you, but since I'm such a nice guy I'll give you $25 shipped for it, just to take it off your hands. [:D]
Posted on: 6/30/2009 4:34 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8895230

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
That sounds a lot like something I say when I am handed a pint of fine ale; Ahh yes! [8D]
Posted on: 6/30/2009 11:11 AM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8894508

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
Nobody said anything about their weight? That is most of the reason you guys are enjoying them so much. It really does take a boat anchor off the total rotating mass just to make that one change makes a huge difference on how the car drives. Love; -the fact that they are ultra light -the strong wheels -the softer insert foam -the strong factory glue job -their overall appearance. -their much lower price over AE -the front/rear different tire widths; brilliant. HATE; -the compound wears WAY too fast. -you can't get them NOT factory glued (I would like to belt them, and perhaps make winter tires with them) -they should stick more AND wear longer. It almost feels as if they were designed to wear out at this rate.
Posted on: 6/30/2009 1:14 AM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8893583

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
Depends which 2s, what KV motor and what gearing you are using. Some of my 2s are much slower than others, so far my "brandless" 2s zippy 1300mah 20c's are outperforming all kinds of other packs from old polyquest 1200mah 20C to 1700mah "electric power" 15C On the zippys, 17:60 gearing the 8900kv motor I have makes this thing as fast as I want to go, I nearly hurt someone (and my car) last time out with 3S I'd rather not go there anymore...
Posted on: 6/29/2009 10:01 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8892721

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
Boy did you ever get the wrong car to be a body afficionado! They all look so "ordinary" by comparison to other micros like Hpi's micro rs4 bodies; most of those things are works of art worthy of desk model status... (all the 150mm versions fit the team x-ray M18) Other than that pretty much anything 1:10th, those guys are spoiled rotten, you can literally get any kind of body your heart desires for those things. Sad how one of the most fun micros out there has totally been snobbed by body makers; the akward wheelbase length to width ratio accounts for most of this. (that's why all our bodies look like asian cartoons) Anyway, I like painting too... the best part is when you remove the overspray film, the paint job will never look so good ever again.
Posted on: 6/29/2009 3:26 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8891413

RE: OFFICIAL 1/16 VXL Slash thread.
[quote]ORIGINAL: peelin_out [quote]ORIGINAL: redfisher1974 [quote]ORIGINAL: peelin_out so aside from scary speeds the 4s works ok? using the 23t or lower pinion? [/quote] it should...I'm running 12 cells on the 28t pinion....fast as hell. [/quote] coolio.. well, I am going to run 2s for starters and then migrate to 3s.... once my series and parallel cables come in then I will pair up some batteries for more excitement.. looks like the softer suspension is really made for running in dirt.. the videos I have seen the car really looks like a real rally car while it's tearing up the dirt.. looks pretty cool, but I can see how it's going to be tricky on tarmac.. [/quote] Subbing, sigh... they had me at "power"[8|] Why don't you make your own parallel/serial adapters out of silicone insulated 14-16 gauge wire and a bunch of deans ultras? You can be sure I won't be driving that thing stock! (ok maybe a quick fire up just to make sure it works before I start cutting and splicing, deleting connectors etc...) I'm thinking this thing's gonna need a really powerful custom lighting system to run off road at night, right? If you send me yours I'll fab one up for you, could take a couple of months though [:D]
Posted on: 6/29/2009 12:18 AM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8889675

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
even taunts me with his sig... I swore to myself "no more big RC purchases this year" let's see how long I can resist...
Posted on: 6/28/2009 10:21 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8889423

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
Nice indeed mouse, you got me thinking; I betcha i put the little plastic blocs backwards when mounting the servo or something like that... Whatever it works now... peelin_out, damn you... you really got my gears turning about the mini slash again. I like it best too, the revo with it's big wheels and tires just looks goofy and toy like IMO even though I am sure it has other desirable things like wheelie popping "fun" ground clearance and bump forgiveness. The scale like looks of the Slash does it for me, I am calling the amsoil scheme but you can use it too, since you're over 3000 miles away [:)] I read it's battery bay dimensions somewhere today, and it looks like some of my 2100-2200's won't fit, but I will have some that should work. Interestingly enough, there are two identical battery bays so you can weigh it down with a pair of 6 cell nicads LOL yeah right... I have some combination's that might work; I have some 910 mah thunder power 3s packs and some 750 mah rhino 20C 3 cells. If I parallel them together I can make 1820 mah 3s and 1500mah 3 cells both of which should have enough juice for the truck. The best part is, paralleling smaller packs like this distributes the weight evenly on both sides of the truck.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 9:56 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8889351

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
[quote]ORIGINAL: peelin_out reeeaalllly... I will need to check that. was thinking about dropping to a 14t so good timing. ha! Just pulled the trigger on a mini slash and a 2200 2s for it... I want to get back in the dirt for a while.. street racing is fun, but it's become increasingly harder to drive my cars at my apartment without hoards of onlookers wanting to know all about the car... ugh. once in a while it's cool, but sometimes I just want to drive in peace. :p [/quote] Great minds think alike... I just showed (a few days ago really) that thing to my buddy who owns the other ride in the above pics and he said something like "Oooo" We'll probably go for a pair next winter (different schemes of course) brushless out of the box and waterproof electronics, higher ground clearance; do you see where I am going with this? [:D] Of course we'd be running 3s lipos, I have so many 3s packs in the 2100-2200 mah range I could power a small town for a weekend. [:)]
Posted on: 6/28/2009 12:05 PM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8888101

RE: OFFICAL RC18R THREAD
Wierd I completely forgot about that noise; it doesn't do it anymore for some reason! (or did I just get used to it?) I have had the can become unscrewed a little, cleaned out the bearings, oiled them and put some loctite on the threads, maybe that did it I dunno.
Posted on: 6/28/2009 11:21 AM by Author "aflipz" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8888007