RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
You REALLY need to watch it on short final, sometimes holding down elevator to keep the nose low enough to maintain airspeed? Quite disconcerting for a rookie pilot, but fun to play with for those willing/able to pay attention to little things like airspeed? Gone are the "landomatic" features found when using a CG closer to that recommended. Found is the planes ability to float at speeds that are "just not right"! ;^) I would add enough nose weight to keep it from climbing inverted though... to help keep the plane safe enough to fly tomorrow. -Al
Posted on: 5/19/2013 8:20 PM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11516656

RE: solvent for removing gaskets
Only one I know of. That's elbow grease?
Posted on: 5/18/2013 5:25 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515040

RE: Fuel/Air Ratio Problem with DLE 30?
OK, another thought. How does it run without the cowl (on the ground/in the air)?
Posted on: 5/15/2013 4:05 PM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512570

RE: Fuel/Air Ratio Problem with DLE 30?
As long as the carb has room to breathe between it and the firewall, I would think that if there's enough air circulating through that cowl to keep the engine cool, the carb would not have any difficulty getting enough air to run properly. That's my take though....
Posted on: 5/15/2013 1:11 PM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11512456

RE: 50CC REVOLVER!!
Specs taken from the new Tower Catalog that arrived yesterday. Wingspan: 90" Length: 82.5" Wing Area: 1303" Weight: 19.5-20.5lbs. Wing Loading: 34-36 oz/ft They also mention that the cowl is set up with a cowl ring - nice!
Posted on: 9/18/2012 6:10 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11232220

RE: Larger Revolver
A little less than enthusiastic about those specs as well. Too big, not quite my cup of tea? But that's me....-Al
Posted on: 9/17/2012 10:19 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11231206

RE: smallest Gas engines
Not saying your opinion regarding a "starter" gasser is wrong, only that mine is different. I generally suggest one of the 20's.... Here's the thought behind that. The DLE 20 and 30 are both over achievers, but there's 8oz difference in their weights? That's enough to make a noticeable difference in many/most airframes. In a Funtana for instance, it carries either engine nicely (both engines are popular!), but the 30 is WAY too much power (after that initial big grin wears off!). You'll find yourself flying most of the time at/around 1/4 throttle? You can't possibly use much more unless you're pointed straight up because of the flutter potential. Why not have a plane that's 8oz lighter, and just as capable at anything but vertical acceleration? You'll be able to fly slower without dropping a wing as easily, and still have PLENTY of vertical performance? That 8oz difference will also let you get down into some of the smaller (less expensive?) planes without overloading them as well (the Revolvers are a blast!). The props used on the 20's are smaller, giving increased clearance too. That get's to be an important point as you go into the smaller airframes as well.
Posted on: 9/17/2012 5:17 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230895

RE: Installing dubro hinges in ARF
Straight Gorilla glue, the small bottle! Even that's a near lifetime supply. Not sure of shelf life. The bottle I've been using seems to be getting pretty thick, is about 2 years old? Hard to say how much I'm using. Not much. The stuff is REALLY thick, so you can't measure by the number of drops used? You could experiment with a slot cut in a piece of scrap? I started by wiping the glue surface of the hinge across a wet sponge. Don't do that any more as I failed to see the benefit? Your results may vary. I put the glue in the slot. I've never seen it push a hinge out. I will generally wipe any excess off with a paper towel right away. Then I wait for it to dry prior to any further cleanup. I hate the unpredictable setting time with epoxy. This stuff seems much simpler, and seems to hold the hinges just as well. Best of luck, -Al
Posted on: 9/17/2012 4:37 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230856

RE: Installing dubro hinges in ARF
I slice the Monocote on each side of the hinge location, cutting at an angle towards the slot at maybe 45 degrees? This gets the monocote out of the way and leaves room for the pin to be recessed in one step. I converted to Gorilla glue as I can use the bottle tip as an applicator. After many years of using other processes, this seems simplest/easiest for me. I just push some glue in the length of the slot, then push the pre-oiled hinge in to place. If some comes out during the setting process it's nothing a #11 blade can't remove quickly.
Posted on: 9/16/2012 4:41 PM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230371

RE: Larger Revolver
The LARGER larger Revolver?
Posted on: 9/16/2012 10:31 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11230062

RE: smallest Gas engines
For some help/guidance deciding on a 15-20cc gas powered airframe, I think I would want nothing less than about 800-850 sq.in. of wing, if that's any help? Much below that and the low speed performance drops off pretty quickly due to the wing loading Earl is talking about. Not that it won't fly. The military planes fly great for instance - but can be a hand full (maybe not so predictable?) around stall speed when landing. Not something a sport flyer would have fun with for long....
Posted on: 9/16/2012 6:50 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229906

RE: XYZ Ignition problems. Engine won't start. NEED HELP
Dan, wouldn't surprise me! I know messing with the spark plug gap can affect what seems like a rich condition in the mid to upper mid rpm range on mine (gurgling)? Glad you got it going. Kwik, just wondering, you say you're running through a regulator, could it be causing your issue? Have you tried 4.8 volts direct to the module?
Posted on: 9/15/2012 1:24 PM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229473

RE: Low needle lean ? ? ?
The big hesitation when you first give it throttle, frequent stalling at lower throttle settings and/or a reluctance to come back down to idle are what I generally notice.
Posted on: 9/15/2012 5:08 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11229124

RE: smallest Gas engines
Have a DLE 20 in a profile. That pretty much defines the max performance for anything I've ever flown. Then there's a rail mount 20cc RCG in a Great Planes Revolver. That's a blast as well. Much more docile than it looks when slowed down (not a trainer though!), sturdy, awesome all around sport plane with plug in wings and compact dimensions for easy transportation. Prior to a couple of price jumps recently, it was a pretty economical gasser - that looks like a real plane. There's a pretty active forum here for guys with that plane (Larger Revolver - http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9143970/tm.htm) -Al
Posted on: 9/14/2012 5:40 PM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228778

RE: Slow transition on DLE20
[quote]ORIGINAL: tande [quote]ORIGINAL: bcchi You are fighting the #4 ignition timing.The only way to cure your problem is to change the ignition to a RCEXL from a DLE 30 or 55.If your ign has a #4 on it it has a werid timing curve,not really a curve but timing advances all at once at about 2200 RPM.This why your RPM jumps up all at once.It drops down the same way . It seems like it hangs up on high idle and then drops all at once.This is not the fault of RCEXL,Xu Liang knows this is wrong but this is what DLE wanted.If you put a timing light on it is vary easy to see why this is a problem with the #4 ignition. BCCHI Grumpy #2.AMA 2500 [/quote] This guy (Bill ) knows what he is talking about.....You would be wise to listen.....FWIW..... [/quote] I don't enjoy disagreeing with his opinion. I have the greatest respect for that man's knowledge and huge experience, but to watch somebody tell people that might not know any better that their stock ignition module is junk, or that it won't allow the engine to run satisfactorily? That would mean that the hundreds of guys flying this module successfully aren't really able to do that. I know better, and it's not my imagination. Otherwise I wouldn't be saying anything. And no, I have nothing to gain either way. The fact there's an issue with the #4 is a given. Not denying that. I will buy a different one if replacement became necessary. Until that point, this one works well enough as is. -Al
Posted on: 9/14/2012 12:11 PM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228534

RE: smallest Gas engines
Yup, I agree. Nothing that small seems to be working well. Really looking forward to the possibility. NGH9cc looks promising, but from what I understand is having fuel issues. The smallest I see that seems to make good numbers reliably is the RCGF 15cc, but the weight of that engine is not that far off a DLE20? I'm looking for an excuse to try one, but can't find an airframe where it makes sense?
Posted on: 9/14/2012 4:51 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11228135

RE: engine sugestion for 110
I was very recently AMAZED at what a DLE30 can do with a 17lb fabric covered clipped wing CUB! I would never have thought that possible on something that heavy. 14-15lbs, maybe, but not 17!
Posted on: 9/13/2012 6:36 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227132

RE: School Me on Fixing My DLE 20 With a Bent Crank
DLE 20 cranks are easy to get, pretty inexpensive. I might try to straighten, but probably wouldn't spend too much time on it? I haven't done one, but from the point the back plate, cylinder, piston and rod are removed, it shouldn't be that difficult? That drive hub should just be a light press fit. I would just give the prop end of the crank a good whack with a plastic hammer or big screwdriver handle while holding the crankcase in my hand. That should push the crank back into the crank case a little. It's not going to move far because the key will bottom on the front bearing. Tapping the crank forward again should leave you with a gap between the drive hub and the crankcase. The crack should allow the hub to be removed by prying with something carefully, while watching for that key to drop unexpectedly. I would not replace the bearings in a low time engine. I would likely get the parts through Tower. That's me though... -Al
Posted on: 9/13/2012 5:08 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227052

RE: Slow transition on DLE20
Guys, try your best to tune this issue out before buying anything. There are HUNDREDS of these things that run great on the ignitions that come with them! Yes, there's the timing issue on the #4's, but you can generally tune around that. It just makes the DLE 20 a little more tempermental to tune. Not impossible, or even that hard? The DLE 30's come with a very similar timing issue, and they run fine.... If you manage to kill an ign. module somehow, THEN I would agree without hesitation. Get the one for the 55cc.
Posted on: 9/12/2012 4:56 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225926

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
When I run into the slow mode, I change browsers, moving back and forth between FireFox and Internet Explorer?
Posted on: 9/11/2012 8:43 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225028

RE: The real story with CG
I think they call it an aft CG because it's aft of the CG generally suggested by the manf? I agree once you find the neutral CG there's nothing to be gained by going further back, though there may be some special application for that I'm not aware of. I would also caution a rookie flier regarding moving the CG back. The plane will loose a lot of it's forgiveness, depending instead on a pilot's flying ability to keep air under the plane? The plane will generally stall at a lower speed (maybe much slower!), but when it does stall, it will not recover by itself as easily, if at all. You may have to fly it out of the stall? Not a big deal for somebody who can fly, but maybe a bit challenging for those with less stick time. Low time or less experienced that want to play with CG should go a little at a time, testing each change as soon as possible by slowing the plane while 3 mistakes high and playing with the stall - so they know what to expect when it's time to land. Too many skip this step, figuring it's not necessary, until they are educated on short final.... Regarding which way it's going to fall, it can/will fall in any direction? Practicing down low can get expensive....
Posted on: 9/11/2012 5:48 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224851

RE: Larger Revolver
I try to stick with the clevis plan because I think that the ball links can set up a twisting motion when bolted to lighter (plastic/nylon) arms? The clevis of course, supports the arm on both sides, centers the push/pull loads on it, thus preventing that twisting action. I lost trust in the metal clevises when I lost one in flight as well. Mine let go at the base of the Y, one side breaking off completely. I was looking for this video last night. It happens to be the same plane and clevis I lost mine on (Great Planes Giant Super Sport). Anyone wondering why these clevises let go should have their questions answered here. Also, those running gas power in other planes where the suggestion has been made that flying wires are a good plan on the tail surfaces? Check the Monokote wrinkling/flexing where the fuse side meets the turtle deck due to the unsupported horizontal stab. which can be seen flapping madly at 3:34 Very entertaining/educational video. Keep in mind this plane is not even doing anything mildly crazy...... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-nAsg14LvA&feature=related -Al
Posted on: 9/11/2012 5:20 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224824

RE: Larger Revolver
I use these on all my 20-30cc stuff. They grip the rod pretty tightly, are super sturdy, can't imagine what it would take to make one fail? Available 2/56 and 4/40 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWH34&P=7
Posted on: 9/10/2012 6:29 PM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224416

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
That's a clean engine install, and a great looking covering job, no doubt! I'll stick to my point though, regarding how practical that installation type might work on a GSS powered by a gas engine w/rear carb. Comparing it to yours, your carb. would be burried down behind your engine, in line with your crankshaft. Getting access to the carb and choke linkages, the fuel line, and mixture screws would require a hatch somewhere. When you get past that, then you have to deal with what a gasser's exhaust might do to the picture? I don't think so, not for me. A fitted cowl would surely be nicer, not saying the GSS is perfect. Considering the options, I'm pretty happy with it as is. That's me though. -Al
Posted on: 9/10/2012 10:29 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223854

RE: XYZ Ignition problems. Engine won't start. NEED HELP
[quote]ORIGINAL: secret_squirrel Thanks for the information. I did in fact read that post before posting my question. My concern was that it specifically states the tests are for ''Rcexl and many C&H ignitions''. My concern was that I am not sure my ignition falls into one of those two categories and I don't want to damage an ignition that may not be broken with tests? Any input? I have also been looking at the Rcexl ignitions and will contact milton for advice should I need to replace the ignition. Thanks, Dan [/quote] I have 2 RCG ignitions I would suspect are very close if not the same as yours (Rcxel knockoffs). Could never prove that, but would say you could safely use those diagnostics with no trouble.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 9:11 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223762

RE: Covering a large plane question
One of the bigger problems you'll be facing putting one layer over the next is bubbling between layers. I've found Ultracote is more forgiving of this process when compared to Monocote. If the overlayed area is larger (thinking starburst pattern) it helps to trace the outline of the second layer on the first, allowing you to poke a bunch of pin holes in the overlayed area, which will help minimize the dreaded bubbles.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 6:26 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223568

RE: XYZ Ignition problems. Engine won't start. NEED HELP
At the top of this gas section there's a sticky with a TON of information guys coming up to speed with gas might want to know or use for reference later. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8673009/tm.htm Post # 24 is the one you might be able to use. It's step by step diagnostics for troubleshooting your ignition. If it turns out you need a module, I wouldn't buy one like you have. I'd go the the Rcexl brand, even if I had to spend a little more to do it. That's me though, -Al
Posted on: 9/10/2012 5:26 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223529

RE: Slow transition on DLE20
[quote]ORIGINAL: acdii Actually this was the first cool day I ran it, all the other times were in the high 80's or 90's.   [/quote] From what you're saying, I would suggest you've probably got enough time on yours where starting over with your adjustments might be easier than chasing the "tweaks" necessary to assure it's running right? Air temp probably has nothing to do with your problem. I was just thinking about that as I was just getting ready to head out to the field when I wrote the reply to your note. Thought I would pass it on while I was at it. I did end up adjusting the plane I flew slightly richer on the HS (20cc RCG/Revolver). The plane had been set up for warmer weather (high 80's, low 90's), and yesterday we had nice crisp low 70's. Gorgeous day!
Posted on: 9/10/2012 5:15 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223520

RE: Ignition Module failure
[quote]ORIGINAL: Lifer Thanks for the replies, but I still have the same question: How can it produce a spark but not allow the engine to fire? I replaced the old unit with a new one and it fired right up. Again, does anyone know how the old one can spark, but not support the engine to run? [/quote] If the ignition has a choice of firing across the gap in a plug, as well as something requiring slightly more power (say a leak within the spark plug boot, or a coil that's starting to break down internally?), the extra power required to fire the plug at the top of the compression stroke can make the difference between which path offers the least resistance for the spark to get to ground? It is not THAT unusual to have a plug fire when outside of the cylinder, but not while under compression. Other symptoms might include an infrequent pop or 2, exhaust smoke, back firing, etc. This has happened to me twice now, and replacing the spark plug boot has fixed the problem both times. -Al
Posted on: 9/10/2012 4:54 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223509

RE: Slow transition on DLE20
Agreed, low speed too rich. If it's been a while, you might even want to just start over again to make sure of where you're at, high and low? Time to keep something else in mind too, with the big air temp swings you see often this time of year (50 one day, 80 the next?) you can plan on your engine's mixture requirements changing enough to be very noticeable. Set for 80 degrees, will be lean for 50! Set for 50, fat for 80! -Al
Posted on: 9/9/2012 8:16 AM by Author "ahicks" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11222713