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RE: World models 80 inch p51 engine advice
Thanks for that info Ed, that helps a ton. We have some CG work to do, but also some engine tuning to do. The DLE 30 was running pretty rich still. Once we have those issues worked out I would like to spend some time really trimming out the airplane, working on setup, and breaking in the engine. Once I have some time on it and we are both very comfortable that it's consistent then I would like to get the buddy box out and start transition training. CV580 is a good pilot and won't have any problems flying the airplane, just need to get it handling correctly and some experience and he will be good to go. I suspect he will really enjoy this model.
Posted on: 7/4/2011 10:22 AM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10605521
RE: World models 80 inch p51 engine advice
I made the bushing and got the spinner and hardware together and weighed it, we flew the airplane with out 9oz on the front. Yep, over 1/2 lb on the nose of the airplane. I suspect our CG could have been well more than an inch aft. Tonight I started playing with the CG of the P-51 on RF5.5 and it didn't start acting like the real one did until it was another 3" aft, and even then I was able to get it on the runway fine. Add some nerves and some wind and there you go. Now that we have worked out the spinner deal we will get it all mounted up and check it over real good. I suspect the airplane will fly fine once it's got a sane CG.
Posted on: 7/3/2011 10:55 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10604914
RE: Brand new Saito 100
14x8 APC for a 3d profile? I doubt that would work very well. What about a 15x4w? schu
Posted on: 7/6/2009 12:22 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8910698
RE: Brand new Saito 100
My saito 100 with a APC 15x6 only turns 8500rpm on 15% power master. Another at our club only turns 9100 with an MAS 15x6. I've been though the ring, valves, valve lash, camshaft timing, new bearings and everything else I can think of and it just won't go faster than that. If I could get to 9000 it would perform that much better. Anyone have any thoughts on how to fix it? I'm at sea level. schu
Posted on: 7/6/2009 1:21 AM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Tachometer Readings"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8909787
RE: QQ 73
Yea, I just called Curtis at EF and got on the list, I'm going to pick one of those up when they are done. Sounds like a great airframe. schu
Posted on: 6/16/2009 5:28 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8857214
QQ 73" Yak is gone, so I need a new airframe for my OS 1.60
Today is a good day and a bad day. I crashed my QQ 73" yak when the engine died in a 20 foot hover (I was messing with the mixture and didn't get it right) but my 9yo son solo'd for the first time so the day ended on a good note. Now I'm looking at airframes for my OS 1.60, but with the EF 74" yak and the QQ 73" yak no longer available it doesn't look like I have many options. Anyone have any suggestions? Perhaps I'll just get the great planes yak, but something tells me it just isn't going to 3d like the QQ did, though having parts available would be pretty nice. Any thoughts on the best 3d ship for a OS 1.60? Thanks, schu
Posted on: 6/15/2009 1:48 AM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8852719
RE: 10c questions
Thanks for the reply Bax... The things I want to know the most are questions 1 and 2. Since the 10c has been announced and some specs are published I think it's reasonable to get the answers to those sometime soon. I wonder if anyone going to the WRAM show can get some answers. schu
Posted on: 2/22/2008 3:04 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7118916
10c questions
Bax, Krysta. I was just about ready to drop coin on a 9 channel JR radio when I saw that futaba announced a competing radio, the 10c. I would like to know more about this radio so I have a few questions: 1. Will it do 2048 resolution in FASST mode with the R608FS RX? I see that the specs say 1024 resolution, but I am thinking that is because it does 1024pcm. 2. Does the 10c have channel interleaving that prevents large swash movements from a single frame? This is a huge problem with the 9c super as shown in the attached graph. 3. Does futaba have plans to ship any RX's under the $50 price point? The $70 R616FFM is pretty spendy for a foamy. 4. Does futaba have plans to ship a full range 6 channel RX to replace the R606FS? 5. Are their plans to get some better information together on their products? At this point it's very difficult to figure out which modules/RX offer 2048 resolution or discern what is the difference between the R617FS and R607FS. Some decent documentation would be great. Thanks, schu
Posted on: 2/22/2008 1:51 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7118557
RE: Futaba 10C Official Thread: Press release inside!
What I want to know is if they fixed the CCPM performance problems and if it has 2048 resolution. If not, then it won't compete with the X9303 when it comes to heli pilots. schu
Posted on: 2/18/2008 4:54 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7096715
RE: Quique Somenzini YAK-54S 73"
When I mounted my metal locating pins I figured out exactly the thickness of the wood, then drilled a hole so it would be flush with the back side. I then installed the pins, and put in a small pin on the back side then glued them as shown. This makes it so that my wings are pined on both sides. schu
Posted on: 8/24/2007 2:53 AM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6279859
RE: Quique Somenzini YAK-54S 73"
I have several planes without a spinner, should work fine, just make sure you have it balanced correctly. My QQ yak is picky about balance, when it's dialed its a wonderful flying plane, when it's 1/4" off it's either not as aerobatic or it's very pitch sensitive.
Posted on: 8/22/2007 3:07 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6272702
RE: Quique Somenzini YAK-54S 73"
Just catching up with all of the talk, been out tuning on my engine getting my yak going. I bought a brillelli gas engine last winter and haven't been able to make it run very well, but yesterday I finally got it all dialed in (thanks to a new carb) now it seems reliable, sips fuel, and has very good vertical. Anyway, I needed to trim some weight off my plane too since the brillelli is heavier than the glow engines so this is what I did: CF landing gear (it's lighter and also is needed for the 20" prop) No wheel pants. (Yaks don't have wheel pants anyway) Super light wheels (Dave Patrick Models) Battery is a 5 cell ELITE 1500 2/3AA (weighs 4.2oz and will handle a 20 amp load) (Only $16.,25 from cheapbatterypacks.com) 8oz fuel cell wood prop Xoar 20x8 GP 1.60 spinner (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJUN5&P=Z) pretty light, but needed to be modified to work. Sanyo NiMH HR-AAAU 720 Ign pack (1.82 oz) When it's all said and done it's as light as my OS 1.60 setup (weighs 11.83lbs) and only needs 6oz of fuel with the small tank which is giving me 18+ minutes of flying. As far as vibes, the brillelli with ignition advance doesn't vibrate any worse than my 1.60 and I know it doesn't vibrate as bad as a YS. Hopefully I can get a video of it going soon, but I am glad to finally have this going. In the end I should have left it glow since I went though a lot of trouble to get this going with gas and the os 1.60 worked really well, but on the flip side, the fuel is super cheap and it doesn't gum up my plane. schu
Posted on: 8/19/2007 12:50 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6257935
RE: Futaba announces 2.4 Ghz modules
I suppose you futaba/futaba guys are only using futaba servos right? Or did you not know that the signal that comes out of your radio is exactly the same as the one coming out of your rx. Using the XPS is exactly the same as using another vendors servos. Anyway, I was thinking of going with futaba, but not at those prices. schu
Posted on: 6/2/2007 6:29 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5935498
RE: Want to upgrade motor on my RTR XXX-T and need some help.
I have thought about it, but I already have plenty tied up in brushless stuff for airplanes and a heli. The entire point of the car is something to bash around when I'm not flying. I guess it's just not a big enough blip on my radar to warrant the money it would cost to go brushless. I'll probably buy a 17t orion and call it good. schu
Posted on: 6/1/2007 2:46 AM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5929324
RE: Plane radio for a Truck?
As an airplane guy I would say DO NOT USE THE 72MHZ AIRCRAFT FREQUENCY. The reason why is because you may be in range of someone flying an airplane which could cause a crash or even worse hurt someone. A 40 size airplane is a 6lb flying razor blade and can be very dangerous. Also, as other have mentioned, it's illegal, and for good reason. The best thing for you to do is sell the TX you have on ebay or at the LHS or something, then pay the difference for a surface radio. Given how cheap the surface stuff is I would bet you could get it pretty close to a wash and it would be much safer/legal. schu
Posted on: 5/31/2007 2:51 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5926538
Want to upgrade motor on my RTR XXX-T and need some help.
Hello Forum, I have this truck I bought two summers ago when I wanted to take a break from airplanes. I use it for bashing around and have had a really good time with it, but now the gravel road I live on has started to take it's toll. The truck isn't as fast anymore so I decided it was time to take it all apart and clean it. The trans looks fine, the bearings are good, but my motor doesn't look so great. The bushing has some play and I can move the armature in and out an 1/8" so I'm thinking it might be time to replace it. Here are the motors I'm thinking about: Team Orion Formula SV2 Pro BB 17x2 $39 Team Orion Formula SV2 Pro BB 15x2 $39 Team Orion Method R V2 15x2 $35 Team Orion Method R V2 17x2 $35 Team Checkpoint Money 19 Turn Spec Motor $50 I have a novak xrs esp which has a 15t limit so I'm not sure if I should push it and go with a 15t setup or be a little more conservative and go 17t. Thoughts? At this point I'm leaning toward the Team Orion Method R V2 17x2. It's $15 cheaper than the checkpoint and should as fast or faster. It has the nice end bell but I'm not sure what they buys me. Any thoughts or suggestions? Oh, almost forgot I'm running GP3300 6 cell packs. schu
Posted on: 5/31/2007 2:34 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5926480
RE: Full scale flyers....roll call.
I just bought a 150. I'll be using it to learn to fly. My neighbor is a CFI so as soon as he gets back from kodiak we'll start. I'm excited, I can't way to get my ticket: [image]http://www.schu.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12684&g2_serialNumber=2[/image]
Posted on: 5/22/2007 9:59 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Airplanes - Full Scale"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5889291
RE: Please help me figure out my WT-540 carb issues.
The ebay seller was not willing to refund for the defective carb. Since the auction did say bulk and as-is I left neutral feedback since I couldn't in all conscience leave positive feedback but did assume the risk. Looks like he will will retaliate and leave neutral feedback as well. Lesson learned. If you see a carb on ebay and it says AS-IS, you don't want it on your plane. schu
Posted on: 5/22/2007 6:46 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5888378
RE: Please help me figure out my WT-540 carb issues.
Thanks for the link, but I am very familiar with adjusting the carb, the problem is the needle seat is not installed deep enough in the carb. This causes the geometry of the lever to be all wrong. In order to get it to work both the tab and fork of the lever need to be bent. This isn't a minor adjustment but a major adjustment. I've gotten the carb to run, but it runs like crap and isn't anywhere near consistent. schu
Posted on: 5/22/2007 11:57 AM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5886775
RE: Please help me figure out my WT-540 carb issues.
I got a PM from Scott. He says that the 540 hasn't been around for a long time and that the ebay carbs are old stock or they are rejects. Well this one is not right, but the ebay seller agreed to send me a WT-542 for the cost of the shipping but I'm not betting it will work either. Now that it's all said done I paid $15 for the original, $9 for the rebuild kit, and $5 for the second one. All together that is $29 down the drain. I learned my lesson, future carbs will be purchased from Scott at brillelli. I know they will work. schu
Posted on: 5/22/2007 12:54 AM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5885430
RE: Please help me figure out my WT-540 carb issues.
So your needle is high too? A picture would be great. Just make sure you use macro mode if you have one on your digital camera so you can get a close up picture.
Posted on: 5/21/2007 3:54 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5882951
RE: Please help me figure out my WT-540 carb issues.
outahand and everyone else, Does the needle in your carb sit flush with the casting like this: [image]http://schu.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12672&g2_serialNumber=1[/image] Or does it sit above the casting like this: [image]http://schu.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12675&g2_serialNumber=1[/image] This is the problem with my carb. Since the needle sits up so high, the lever needs to have the crap bent out of it to work. Here is a picture of a stock walbro lever and one that I modified to work in my WT-540: [image]http://schu.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12669&g2_serialNumber=1[/image] Notice the top one which is stock has the fork much lower on the hinge point which is correct for a carb where the needle sits down flush. My WT-540 has the needle sitting up real high so I had to bend the fork to be much higher on the hinge point. What I'm trying to figure out is what specifically is wrong. Is my needle too long? Is the lever the wrong part number? Or is the needle seat too high? outahand, did you buy the carb from ECEdwards? If so and it looks like the needle is high then perhaps you and I have the same problem. schu
Posted on: 5/21/2007 1:39 AM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5880744
RE: Please help me figure out my WT-540 carb issues.
Anyone else have a WT-540? If you do can you pop the cover off and look at the needle valve? Is the shoulder flush with the case or does it stick out .025? Every walbro I've ever seen had the groove in the needle valve just above flush with the casting, where the one I have sticks up. I'm starting to wonder if the valve seat didn't get pressed in all of the way. schu
Posted on: 5/20/2007 7:12 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5879258
RE: Please help me figure out my WT-540 carb issues.
Ok, I found that there are two different metering levers for walbro carbs. I'm not sure which one is the right one so I order one of each from a small engine shop. When they get here i'll be able to compare. I'm betting I have the wrong lever. In the mean time I'll use the one I bent up and see if I can get the engine to run. schu
Posted on: 5/19/2007 4:47 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5875041
RE: Please help me figure out my WT-540 carb issues.
Ok, so I mounted it and then bent the tab up to make it flush with the boss as Terry suggested, however that causes the little fork to be at such an angle the it bound up on the plunger so that it wouldn't go up or down. The only way to make it work was to bend the fork up, then down so that it's higher up on the hinge point. Here is a picture: [image]http://schu.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12666&g2_serialNumber=1[/image] The rocker on the top is a stock walbro part that works in every other walbro I have. The rocker in the middle is the one I just bent the crap out of to make it work. Notice the height of the forks in relation to the arm. The bottom one is the zama part that works just fine. Given the amount of bending and twisting required to make this work I'm convinced that I have the wrong part number, or the plunger is too long, or the seat is too high. Any other thoughts? schu
Posted on: 5/19/2007 1:23 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5874473
RE: Please help me figure out my WT-540 carb issues.
Does this mean that the stock part needs to be bent to work?
Posted on: 5/19/2007 12:49 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5874370
Please help me figure out my WT-540 carb issues.
Group, I had the low speed needle strip out on my zama carb (not sure how since it happened while the needle was in the carb) so I bought a WT-540 off of ebay to replace it. I didn't have any problems moving the fuel pump pulse or putting a tube on the diaphragm vent, but the little plunger rocker didn't look right. The tip that the diaphragm taps on was too low and it didn't seem to open the plunger valve. I figure this would be easily solved with a carb kit so I picked up a K20-WAT rebuild kit at the local small engine shop. Now here is the strange part, the little rocker in the kit is also too low and it holds the valve shut as the spring coil binds. At this point I dug the rocker out of my zama and see if it fits and it seems to work fine. The new rocker I got in the rebuild kit looks perfectly straight so I don't think it's bend. When comparing the zama rocker which fit and the walbro one that didn't it seems the difference is in the forks that hold the plunger. On the zama they come out in the middle of the hinge and on the walbro the bottom of the hinge. Now the question is what do I do next? Do I run the zama rocker and hope it meters fuel correctly? Or is there a different walbro rocker I can get, or perhaps a shorter plunger? Here are a couple of pictures that show the carb in detail. Note the picture with the rocker up is which the zama rocker and the picture with the rocker down is with the new walbro rocker: [image]http://www.schu.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12656&g2_serialNumber=1[/image] [image]http://www.schu.net/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12660&g2_serialNumber=1[/image] Thanks, schu
Posted on: 5/19/2007 4:41 AM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5873477
RE: Brillelli 40GT and QQ 73" yak thread.
STG, Which carb do you have on your 46? Also, do you use the velocity stack? My zama carb has some issues, yesterday while tuning the low speed needle got really hard to turn. I decided to pull it out to inspect it, but it turns out that it was stripped inside the carb. I'm not sure how it happened, but needless to say, the needle got really messed up while I worked to get it out. Anyway, I've ordered a walbro wt-0540 carb which is a slight amount bigger so I'm hoping it will perform a little better. I'm also going to add the velocity stack facing forward and see how that goes since the air moving across the carb has to be causing a venturi effect causing less air to go into the engine during flight. If I can get 6900 I'll be happy as I've only gotten 6600 the last few times I've run it. schu
Posted on: 5/13/2007 11:16 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5851033
Looking for a good 3d kit.
I would like to do more kit building, but I would like to get a nice 3d ship. The problem is that the only good 3d planes I see in kit form are profiles. Not that I have anything against profiles, I have a mojo and it's a wonderful plane, the problem is that it's a stinking pain in the neck to transport. When I go to the field everything else breaks down, but the mojo doesn't. Now I know that there is a removable wing mod for the mojo, but it's also a pain because the RX lives in the wing so you still need to hook everything up. All that said, has anyone come across a good 3d ship that I can build that has enough of a fuse to hold the RX and throttle servo so that it can have removable wings without messing with the rx?
Posted on: 5/9/2007 1:02 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5832131
RE: learn 3d
I great 3d ship is the 3dhobbyshop.com 's extra shp. It's not that expensive, it's very stable with forward CG and 3d's well with neutral cg. It's very portable since the wings come off, it's quiet and clean. I was doing rolling harriers on mine 1 minute into the madden flight. Hovers are easy, elevators are vertical, and knife edge has no coupling. It flys WAY better than a twist, because it's light, and doesn't want to roll and pitch couple. I can't say enough about this plane: [image]http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/images/3DH-EXTRA-ARF.jpg[/image]
Posted on: 5/9/2007 12:55 PM by Author "akschu"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5832096
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