RE: Fuel Barb Soldering Help Please!
Get yourself a small center punch to tap into the ends of the tubes to flair them just a lil bit. Jobs done in seconds.
Posted on: 12/10/2011 5:29 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10852775

RE: XOAR 23X10 DA-50????????
It will run it but that really is too much prop. If you use it run the engine like you would a loaded truck climbing a hill. Back off on the throttle to keep the heat down. Don't do long power climbs. Or, You can trim the prop down. I do it all the time. I start with a 24x8 and trim to 22x8 ish, for a 3W56 twin. It makes for a wider blade out at the tips for more air over the ailerons.
Posted on: 5/28/2011 8:10 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10545827

RE: Cleaning engines in plane
Start with ether/starting fluid. It will rinse oil spots off the engine and the firewall without attacking the paints or covering. Pretty good at lifting oil stains out of the bare wood also.
Posted on: 4/4/2011 1:08 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10442656

RE: NEW prop design
Sheesh! Posting here drives me nuts!
Posted on: 3/25/2011 7:54 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10421699

RE: NEW prop design
I'm gona get two and bolt them back to back as a 4 blade! I'll have my bud "stubb" do the starting.
Posted on: 3/25/2011 7:52 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10421696

RE: Home built two stroke engine!
You fellers living under a rock? LOL Ultralights are flying with E power http://www.electraflyer.com/ http://www.fly-flightstar.com/
Posted on: 3/20/2011 4:54 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10412351

RE: Starter for 50cc??
Dewalt 14 or 18v rechargeable drill. And a large starter cone from tower. Works like a charm, and you need a good rechargeable drill anyway. If you do go this rout, get the Li-ion battery packs. Todays nicad drill's batterys are junk.
Posted on: 3/6/2011 11:28 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10382519

RE: What is best for 3d: 22x8, 23x8 or 22x10 on 50cc sd yak?
A stock 22x8 TF prop isn't enough for a 50cc engine. They are a thin prop and will flex. But a 24x8 TF cut down to 22.5x8 makes one heck of a prop. That way you get some serious wide blade prop action out at the end where it will put more air over the ailerons. I think NX 23x8 is the best out of the box prop. Not as thick as a Xoar for better spool up.
Posted on: 3/6/2011 8:13 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10382172

RE: 45-62 cc
Which leads you back to the BME Echo based 50cc engine. Lighter than all but the BME 58. Beam mounts again reducing weight, and the lower compression gives the smooth idle and less vibrations. The perfect undersized plane engine. Want to save money? Scrounge your local saw shops or Ebay for a used saw. I got one for $20.00 Ad an ignition, $50.00 and a prop adapter from BME $50.00 and a muffler from where ever $60.00 Should have an excellent engine for under $200.00
Posted on: 3/4/2011 8:46 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10378548

RE: 45-62 cc
I have the 3W 56iB2, Above idle it is very smooth. Best engine there is for making an airframe last a long time. Draw back will be building an exhaust. I make my own 2 into one headers and run single cann exhaust. This engine really likes being on tuned exhaust. It can and mine does weigh just under 4# after a bit of modifying. Next choice for power would be the 3W 55xi, Pure brute power and light. Next choice BME 58 Extreme, Another screamer and the lightest possible weight. Both these will shake some but not too bad. Either of these would be excelent, because they are top of the line and will fit any application in the future. And if you don't need lots of power the BME 50cc Echo conversion engine runs and idles very smooth. Acceptable sound from a stock muffler. Super easy to mount with the beams on the crank case. Keeping the weight down with a glass filled mount is a snap. Next best choice for long airframe life. Just not a good choice for a future 3D aerobatic plane.
Posted on: 3/3/2011 8:55 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10376486

RE: New 20cc popular gas engine
Good Grief! Trial lawyers, liability claims, Government regulators as well as cheap as dirt foreign competition put those companies out of business years ago. LOL
Posted on: 2/28/2011 5:58 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10370751

RE: WALBRO WT diaphragm cover upgrade
Paint it orange! Might not be too blingy, but it can be eye popping.
Posted on: 2/18/2011 9:15 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10347110

RE: Running CDI from RX
Wouldn't a simple AM radio be able to pick up whether or not an ignition is casting stray RF? I'm no electrical wiz but it seams an enterprising feller could sell a bunch of units that could detect whether or not an ignition is running dirty. Think I'll grab the lil sony pocket am/fm radio and test my stuff this weekend and see.
Posted on: 2/18/2011 7:57 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10345359

RE: VESS prop tiny damage - how serious is it?
I do it similar, but I make up some balsa, or maple, or oak, sanding dust to pack the chip. Blends right in when done.
Posted on: 2/18/2011 7:49 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10345343

RE: Running CDI from RX
The power source loads the coil the signal tells the coil when to fire. The stored energy runs up the wire to the spark plug and fires the plug. About a hundred years ago someone figured out which direction the coil would send the pulse. If they didn't, starting your car would be a lot more exciting. Now, with these cdi ignitions if they are fired without a looped ground the signal gets zapped and blows the pickup sensor instantly and shuts down. Either someone forgot how to wire the coils for polarity or they figured the system would shut down imediatly should it go haywire. So far there's no reason stray signals should run back to the supply side battery. About the only long term problem I see is not having a battery with enough oomph to send a strong steady feed of power to the cdi. Where the high frequency bumps the coil/s are drawing from the battery might set the rx to see the power fluxuate at a frequency that disrupts it's opperation.
Posted on: 2/16/2011 5:50 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10341513

RE: Seafoam, Yes/No/Maybe?
I forget this site's posting can drive me crazy!!!
Posted on: 2/12/2011 8:36 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10330405

RE: Seafoam, Yes/No/Maybe?
You are leaving out the tinkerers. Building and adjusting an exhaust system can and will lead to making deposits when exhaust gas flow isn't optimal. In cases where there is no way to get perfect tuning length it will be an ongoing process of carbon build up. Finding the perfect tune length to a exhaust system being the goal. But before finding the goal I've had to disassemble an engine every few weeks to unstick rings and check for deposits. During this time I will use Seafoam to; Keep the carbon soft so it's easy to remove, Help clean a dirty engine after finding tune, Use in engines where I need/want to run a larger prop. Nothing will stop this engine scenario from building enough heat to make deposits. The Seafoam keeps it soft. Adding some dino oil to the mix seams to help also. Running standard mufflers though, probably would not lead to needing to use Seafoam. None of my engines have standard in cowel mufflers. (except maybe running too large of a prop) So I can't say much about them.
Posted on: 2/12/2011 8:34 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10330400

RE: gasket
Here's the trick to get a leak proof never get loose fit. Lightly sand a slight convex to the flange face. The center will contact first and the area around the bolts last. This way there will always be pressure applied across the whole surface. This same pressure keeps the bolts under tension and they will not back out. Make sure the opposite side is flat. Use a small amount of high temp silicone because if you do it right 99.9% will squeese out. Alow it to dry overnite before running the engine.
Posted on: 1/27/2011 9:31 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10294559

RE: Cannister Question
Low exhaust gas temps keep the system clean. So does propper tuning.
Posted on: 9/26/2010 10:18 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10029495

RE: BME 115 Performance
The Falcon ignition is timed by measuring 5 to 6mm between the center of the magnet and center of the sensor. RCXL is timed about 28* advanced, that comes out to about a hair less than 1/4" between the magnet edge and sensor edge. I time mine by how it sounds when running, and with a tuned exhaust it needs to be a little less advanced. The plastic block is the free one, the aluminum one is $100 ish.
Posted on: 9/24/2010 6:25 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10025030

RE: DA-100CC canister ??
KS-86 rear dump canns with a total header length, measured to the baffle inside the cann of 15.5 to 17" will give equal to stock power. Very quiet too. These work pretty cool too!
Posted on: 9/23/2010 10:21 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10021784

RE: BME 115 Performance
Hey Bitten, Good to see yer gona run the BME. Here's my take on your questions; The plastic reedblock shown will cure the issues of fuel puddling and make the engine run good. I have one and it does work. Only drawback I found with it is it will compress a bit and need to be retightened a couple times. It does quit compressing after a bit and not need further maintenance. It can be improved and mine is by continuing the venturi down into the chamber a bit, but thats a bunch of work hand shaping aluminum to fit. Worth it in a sort of why not way. If you decide to use the aluminum one instead, keep the plastic one because it is lighter. The WGA 9carb is my prefered carb of the two BME offered. To me it has a smoother mid range. However the WB 35 is a much shorter carb and will fit smaller cowls better. The difference in how they run is barely noticable. One thing I strongly recomend is having BME install a pulse port fitting directly centered in the pump chamber if your carb doesn't already have it there. This will give it the strongest pump action and most consistant fuel metering. Only pay extra for the WB carb if it will help keep you from having to cut the bottom out on a cowl for the carb to fit. It's about 1/2" difference. In my reedcages I drill a tiny (wiresized about 15) hole where fuel could puddle. That would be to the backside as the engine sits in the plane. That lets the fuel suck back into the reeds and go where it belongs Run the Falcon till it dies. I've had three, the two that died would have a cold cylinder at the start and would slowly come on and run fine all day. So they don't just quit. By all means get an RCXL to have handy as a back up. Now if you want light, keep that plastic reedblock, find a good SDC 19.05m carb, get a 80mm 8x1.25 Titanium stud and weigh in at 3.9#. Thats light! Good Luck!
Posted on: 9/21/2010 9:12 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10018545

RE: Prop for BME 116
I too prefere the PT 28x10. Seams to be able to hold a hover or high alpha at a much lower rpm. But I'll slap a 28x10 NX on now n then just for a change. Bit more spool up and a different rip sound. Xoars work well too but are a bit more barky. The engine has enough power to swing any 28" prop so go experiment if you want.
Posted on: 10/3/2009 10:56 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9144640

RE:
Just remember to look into the exhaust port or pull the cylinder after a few flights and see if there is exhaust plating on the piston from off tune back pressure. If your piston looks nice n clean below the rings at the exhaust port yer good to go.
Posted on: 9/20/2009 6:25 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9110364

RE: Fuel Used in Gas Engines
The higher octane rating means the combustion heat/pressure can be higher with higher ratings. Power remains about the same. Preignition starts at a higher temp/compression rating with a higher octane rating. Regardless of what engine a higher octane rating will give a little more room for a lean hot running engine and or help the engine run on hot summer days. Most engines will run fine on regular gas. The extra octane is like a bit of insurance. That said the high compression engines, and I'd include DL in there will be less likely to have preignition/detonation with the higher ratings.
Posted on: 9/8/2009 11:07 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9078586

RE: Tips for removing the jug?
It's simple and easy. Pull the lower cap off and the crank/piston assy can be pulled out. Before replacing the ring look for wear patterns in the cylinder wall. A used ring will mate better to the pattern of a worn cylinder. The little drift pin keeps the ring lined up. If it's all worn out reassemble and run it till it dies. The complete block can be purchased if you want to keep using that brand. To reassemble you need to put a sealer on the crankcase halves and around the front and rear seals. "Permatex Gasket Maker" works for this job.
Posted on: 9/8/2009 10:56 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9078564

RE: choke arm on DA50 carb-how can I fix it?
Put one of these on.
Posted on: 9/7/2009 11:37 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9077714

RE: why causes the front bearings to leak on my gasser ???
This http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5645 plus this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=623 will tell you lots about the condition of your engine. I like dealing with these guys for Bearings, http://www.vxb.com/ Their site is very well laid out so finding a good quality bearing is easy. but if your crank is out of alignment or the case is milled wrong no bearing is going to last long. I have a ? Anyone run a ceramic bearing in their gasser yet?
Posted on: 8/27/2009 10:06 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9050711

RE:
Fading on an up line indicates to me the header might be a bit short. I'm finding good tune on my engines between 15 and 18". I measure the total length of pipe before release into the cannister/muffler. That means measuring the pipe that goes into the cannister, and add that to the total. Bend a piece of wire and slide it down into the cannister till you find the end of the straight pipe, then mark and measure it. Finding optimun header length is a trial and error deal. You want to tune for no fade in up lines, a spot where the engine consumes the most fuel, has a snappy low end with good throttle response through out, and the important part,,, pull the cylinder after a couple gallons of fuel run through it after each length tried. The side of the piston facing the exhaust port will tell how well it's tuned and running. Nice clean and new looking is what you are shooting for. An out of tune exhaust will be either doggy on top end (too long) or come on in steps (too short) and to me from learning as I go heat fade is from being short also. Start around 15 or 16 inches and adjust from there.
Posted on: 8/27/2009 9:51 PM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9050664

RE: Gas/oil mixture for gas engines
Better quit using RedLine oil then cause it's a Castor oil 2 cycle mix. http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp?categoryID=3
Posted on: 8/9/2009 1:09 AM by Author "altavillan" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9001250