RE: Intake tube for boat motor?
If your blowing That much fuel OUT the carb you may need a Colder Plug or Lower Nitro or Less Compression. Sounds like the Timing is advanced a litte and the Fuel is Preigniting. Since these engines have no Distributor, Coil, Spark Plug ect.. Ignition Timing is controlled by 4 things: Compression Ratio, Nitro %, GlowPlug Heat Range, Air\Fuel Mixture.
Posted on: 6/5/2013 3:22 PM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11534458

RE: Glow Plug
I don't really have any Idle issues on the smaller engines,, After the engine Warms Up and I get the Air\Fuel mix dialed in,, That may be partially due to the fact I run a lot lower Oil% than Most and mix my own fuel so there are Minimal Additives to inhibit corrosion. The only Non essential additives or Dyes in my fuel are what comes in the Klotz Oil's.
Posted on: 9/11/2012 6:35 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224895

RE: Glow Plug
For High Nitro(over 40%) Generally you want a Cold Pug glow plugs are categorized by Heat Rang not by number. Ask your LHS for a Medium Plug and a Cold Plug and see which works best for you. I prefer McCoy Plugs over the OD plugs, a McCoy MC9 works very well for Me running 60%nitro 12%oil.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 9:47 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223793

RE: propeller size? blackjack 26
Octura Y535(2 Blade) or M435\3, are the standerd upgrades.
Posted on: 9/10/2012 7:13 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223619

RE: Rx Lipo and reg vs Nimh
I have been running LiPo 7.2v and No reg. with my Spektrum rx's for a couple years now with no issues what so ever.
Posted on: 8/10/2012 6:12 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Gas Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11188021

RE: need help with this
I don't mess with the traxxas stuff so maybe one of the guys that Do will chime in. I believe you will need a SG Flywheel and a Flex Coupler that has the same threads as your crank shaft. I would go with a .150 Flex shaft with a 3\16(.1875) stub shaft. [link=http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=4&zenid=725ee94a2a6a9d406490f6c223be5dbf]Zippkits.com[/link] is a good place to look. If the traxxas is the same as many of the .18engines I believe [link=http://zippkits.com/~zippkits/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=74&products_id=327]This[/link] is the right flex collet.
Posted on: 7/18/2012 6:22 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159723

RE: need help with this
That engine will work in an Open Hull Boat like a Mono(V-hull), You May need to remove a few colling fins to let the engine get hot enough. If your good at model building and Wood [link=http://www.aircapitolhobbies.com/Plans_and_Info.html]"Go Here"[/link] and download a free set of plans for the Wild Thing Mono and put that engine in it.
Posted on: 7/16/2012 5:56 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11157071

RE: How To Find a Model Boating Pond Near You.
Who Placed the Lake Ella Yacht Club??
Posted on: 7/6/2012 1:00 PM by Author "amax" in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145566

RE: Problems with O.S. outboard... need help!
Did you Break In the New Piston and Sleeve? When you get it back in does the glow plug look WET or Dry or is it fryin plugs?
Posted on: 6/28/2012 6:56 PM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135822

RE: Prop Strut
Are you Greasing the Flex Shaft & Bushing Every 2 or 3 runs?? I have run several of these with Stock Set Up and Never wore a bushing out.
Posted on: 6/26/2012 11:14 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132578

RE: Props
The Cast Aluminum Props are Junk stay away from them. The Copper\Beryllium Y535 from Octura is the most popular replacement for the Stock 1\12 Hydro, or the M435\3. I haven't tried the CNC aluminum Props so I won't comment on them.
Posted on: 6/26/2012 6:19 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11132215

RE: Fuel
Oil % in the fuel is one of Those Debates that have gone Haywire several times in the past but Here's My 2 Cents.... 20% Oil in the fuel is the manufacturer trying to cover There Butt because it's harder to Burn an engine up by running To Lean with that much oil. You Burn off About 50% of that during combustion and about 90% of the rest goes out the exhaust because it can't burn that much oil in the short amount of time it's going through the combustion part of the Cycle, the rest if left clinging to the cylinder walls and the Bearings for Lubrication. Although having more than Plenty oil unburnt provides substantial lubrication it is also Robbing Performance. 1st: all that Extra Oil in the fuel mixture is taking up Space\Volume that Should be filled with Fuel, More Fuel= More Power. 2nd: Oil slows down the rate at which the fuel burns so your burning even Less of the fuel mixture in that very small amount of time during combustion, if the fuel isn't burning it's not making power, Plane and Simple. 3rd: Oil does not compress as easy as Fuel or Air, so it's takes more of the kinetic energy created from the combustion of the previous stroke for the piston to reach the top of the stroke for combustion, in turn providing less power to turn the prop and a Lower Maximum RPM. 4th: if the Oil Isn't burning it's getting dumped in The Pond and Polluting the water. The Oil in the fuel we run is the only part that's Not considered a Green Fuel, Both Methanol and Nitromethane will COMPLETLY Dissipate in water in 3 to 4 days,, Oil Does Not it floats on top of the water and sticks to anything it touches. Ideally for Maximum Performance you want Just Enough Oil to provide what Will Burn Off during combustion and Leave Behind Just Enough to provide adequate Lubrication, Leaving a Light Smoke Trail behind the boat and not a Rainbow Colored Slick in the water,,, BUT running your oil% that low is MUCH Less Forgiving to the Inexperienced Tuner. in another post I seen you stated, you were running the 1\12 Pro Boat so I'm assuming you have either the .15 Dynamite engine or the .18 Pro Boat Engine. I Have run Several of Both and 16% oil IMO is a fairly Safe level for a slightly experienced tuner especially if your running 30% or Less Nitro. I have run as low as 10% oil in both these engines and they Love It but That's Me, in my Modified Engines running much higher grade ceramic bearings I have run as low as 8% trying to Tweak Every Bit of Performance from the engine, But most the time I run around 12% Oil which is 80% synthetic and 20% Castor,,, and 60% Nitro[>:]
Posted on: 6/21/2012 10:50 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126718

RE: Aquacraft Super-Vee 27 Nitro.
Have you adjusted the Stinger Angle any? There Isn't a lot of adjustment there but little bits do A Lot with little boats.
Posted on: 6/20/2012 5:57 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11124936

RE: pro boatthunder cat
Is the engine Broke In Yet.. How much fuel have you burned in it? Have you adjusted the (HSN)High Speed Needle ANY? How many turns Out is it Now? Is the O-ring around the HSN intact? When your in the water and give it gas does it take off Quick or Lag a bit? Is the Prop Sharpened & Balanced or Like it came Stock?
Posted on: 6/17/2012 7:33 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11121088

RE: Building GP1
ALL Nitro engines are Tight before Break In, Some more than Others, That's the Big Part of the Break In Process, You have to Beat the Piston and Sleeve in to shape so to speak. After the engine is Broke In it will start easier and as JD stated Loosen the glow plug. I Always Loosen my plugs when starting it saves wear and tear on Pull Starts, Tiger Drives, Belts etc... On First start or after the engine has Flooded, I put some paper towel over the loosened plug to catch the ARO that will Spray Out and turn it over a few times then put the plug igniter on and Crank It.
Posted on: 6/12/2012 1:50 PM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11115894

RE: Aquacraft Super-Vee 27 Nitro.
[quote]ORIGINAL: Stephen Wilkowski prop is sharpened and balanced and the drive dog is tight with lock-tite the flex shaft collet is nice and snug, i did put more solder on the tip of the shaft for more friction, but i don't think that helped at all? does the X440/3 have too much pitch, i have to give the boat full throttle, then after 2-3 seconds the prop will grab? would a 2 bladed propeller be any better? same type of thing happened with the stock plastic propeller, i have only 2 runs on the boat and i have had it for a year, but this problem has kept me from running it, in total maybe not even a whole tank through the engine? [/quote] Are setting the boat in the water or Skip Tossing it to launch? The Hydro's need the skip toss launch more than the mono but with a Big prop like the 440 the monos do require a bit of a toss to get going. The 440\3 is a popular prop for the SV27 so I wouldn't say the problem is to much prop. Next question is: Did You S&B the prop or did you buy it finished? How the prop is Cut will make a Big Difference. Are you Greasing the Flex Shaft Thoroughly?
Posted on: 6/12/2012 5:41 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11115374

RE: Aquacraft Super-Vee 27 Nitro.
Sounds like the prop isn't Sharpened & Balanced Properly, OR Drive Dog set screw not tight and Dog is Slippin, Or Flex Coupler not Tight on the flex shaft and flex shaft is Slippin.
Posted on: 6/11/2012 1:25 PM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11114669

RE: Tuning Nitro Engine in boat???
First you need to BREAK The Engine In by running a half dozen tanks of fuel through it a bit on the Rich Side, starting off 1\4 throttle only on the first tank, 1\2 on the second etc.. after you get 4 or 5 tanks through it start leaning it out 1\8 turn on the HSN at a time and run a couple laps until the temp at the glow plug starts hitting between 150*F and 180*F. If you start cooking glow plugs each run your To Lean, if the glow plug comes in WET your to rich. Never run it Full Throttle out of the water. Depending on What Brand fuel your running when Dialed in you won't see A Lot of smoke as many run a High % of Synthetic Oil which tends to Burn off during combustion, and some use whats called Smokeless or Ashless Synthetic Oil which will smoke even less. Personally I think holding it between your knees is a Bad Idea, especially for a Newbie. Not only is it extremely Unsafe but you don't get the proper Load on the prop that way, the Only Way to Dial one in IMO is Run It and Tweak It. If you don't have a Pick Up boat get a Tennis Ball and a 6ft or better Fishing Poll and attach the ball to the line it make a pretty good retrieval system.
Posted on: 6/11/2012 6:02 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11114205

RE: Thunder Cat 31
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WVUH7wGuoXk[/youtube]
Posted on: 6/6/2012 10:07 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11108774

RE: Zippkit .21 Outboard Rigger!!
Here Ya Go... [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF_u36XRRbo[/youtube] to Post YouTube Vids in here you need the URL like This http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF_u36XRRbo,, that has the: /watch?v=*******, at the end of it. When your on your Channel Click on the Name of the vid and it will take you to the "Watch Page", copy That URL and Paste it between the [youtube]<[size=4][color=#0033CC][b]in here[/b][/color][/size]>[/youtube] icons.
Posted on: 6/6/2012 9:21 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11108707

RE: Props
If your running basically Stock engine & Set Up, The Octura Y535 (2 blade prop) for Top Speed, the Octura M435\3 (3 Blade) for Pulling Quick Turns and Hole Shots(Heat Racing). Stainless Steel is a bit Heavy for these small engines and the 1\8" Prop shaft, the Beryllium\Copper(Octura) is lighter and easier to work with when you S&B the prop.
Posted on: 5/31/2012 9:18 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11101256

RE: Props
A Polished Prop will Slip through the water easier where a Sanded prop when done Right will Grab the water a push it the direction you want. If your running a large aggressive prop and need it to Slip a little to let the engine get up in the RPM's You Polish It. BUT a Polished Prop will also Break Loose Easier in the turns or under Heavy Acceleration loads. If you run a Smaller Prop that the engine has No Problem Turning Up you Sand the Blade surface to make it Grab the water and GO. A sanded prop will Launch Easier, Pull Turns Stronger, Hole Shot out of the turns Quicker, and Recover from a Spin Out\Stall Easier. You just have to Experiment a little and figure out what works best for You and Your Driving Style and Boat set up.
Posted on: 5/31/2012 6:23 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11101055

RE: Dynamite .32- warped head?
Do NOT Add gasket material it will drop your compression ratio so low you will get Very Poor Performance. Do Not run the engine Full Throttle Out Of the Water or you Will Have bigger Problems. 1st How much Run time has the engine had? and what is the Head Temp when you bring it in? Are you Burning plugs or are they staying Wet? 2nd These engines are designed to have a complete Metal to Metal Seal when the engine is at Full Operating Temp around 180*F. Because they are made from Aluminum they Expand and Contract A Lot, and will Seep a Little Fuel in Areas Occasionally when the engine is Cool if Not sealed Properly. Also these are High Production Engine so as AB stated Things do get Missed and every engine is Not Perfect,,, None are. Most Nitro engines have Areas that need Extra Attention to get Peak Performance from It. I Seal Everything with regular RTV Silicone even if it already has O-rings( I prefer Clear but you can use Any of it) also available at your local auto parts store. I seal the Carb to the Block, The starter Back Plate to the Block, and Especially The Sleeve to the block(just under the Lip at the top) and the Head to the Sleeve. Let it COMPLETELY dry Overnight and it's Good ta Go... It only takes a Very Light Film of silicone to Seal Most Engines Not Gobs, Take Care not to have Excess Silicone Oozing from theses areas In To the inside of the block. 3rd to check Head Warping remove the head And Brass Shims, mark the Mating Surface of the Head with a Sharpie or Magic Marker. Apply a little Toothpaste to the mating surface of the Sleeve(where the Head makes Contact) Place the head on the engine, apply a little pressure and Twist It a couple turns. If you DON'T have a ring of color removed or Starting to come off from All the way around the mating surface of the Head, or just bare "Spots", it's Warped. The Bare Spots are your High Spots and the Colored areas remaining are the Low Spots, If it is warped but only slightly you can get some valve grinding compound from your local Auto Parts Store(depending on the quality of you local store) and Lap the head flat by applying the compound to the mating surface of the sleeve(instead of tooth paste) and putting the head on and twisting it A LOT, until the High Spots are sanded Off and you have a shiny Ring All the way around the matting surface of the Head. I recommend Disassembling the entire engine to make sure you remove ALL valve grinding Compound from the engine.
Posted on: 5/26/2012 12:04 PM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11095442

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast!
It's not mine it's an Old Trick. Make sure you get the smallest solder you can find your trying to squish it down to the thickness of a piece of paper.
Posted on: 5/17/2012 5:55 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11084189

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast!
because of the head shape at the squish band, plastigage is not very accurate at that tight of a gap (FYI a piece of notebook paper is Approximately .0035" to .004"in just for reference) a good set of Calipers and some Small Solder works a Little better. The Squish band on the head Looks Almost Flat but is is actually tapered somewhere around 3* degrees the very outer edge of the squish band is your Tight area and where you want to set clearance. bend the end of the solder so it will go in the glow plug hole and the tip will touch the side of the cylinder wall, then turn the crank over a couple times to squish the solder, remove it and measure the tip with the callipers.
Posted on: 5/16/2012 6:06 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11082819

RE: AquaCraft U-18 Miss Vegas Hydro Thread_Make it Fast!
When you Step Up the Nitro% you need to put the motor through a Break In Period Again. Start with all shims in for a tank or two and see how it likes it, how the plug is burning, tunability, etc.. If your Not burning plugs up Quick remove a shim and try it again. Make Sure you run Cold Plugs, I have a a lot of good luck with McCoy MC9's running 50% and up. I have Never Touched one of the engines from the Deuce so I'm not sure of specific Head Clearance(Squish) or Combustion Chamber Volume\ Compression Ratio etc.. You just have to experiment. Ideally you want the head to piston clearance tight .004" to .006" in. and adjust chamber volume to the compression ratio you want\need.
Posted on: 5/15/2012 5:57 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11081300

RE: Dumas SK Daddle 36
Yea the x445 should be a bit better prop for the .46 the 440 is a .18\.21 prop normally. Make sure you Sharpen and Balance it or get one already finished, Never run a raw prop it will destroy your drive line very quickly.
Posted on: 5/10/2012 6:08 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11075556

RE: Ceramic bearings
Ceramic Bearings are Good but not worth the extra $$ unless your really pushing the upper RPM Ranges of your engine. If your running the engine Stock no port, head, or carb mods, stick with a good set of stainless bearings. The [link=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ABEC_scale]ABEC[/link] rating is the thing to look at, the Higher the number the better.
Posted on: 5/10/2012 5:57 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11075546

RE: MVD- Basic Information
[quote]ORIGINAL: sfarner Thanks!  That helps because my intuition told me that lean was counterclockwise.  I'm assuming I rarely need to touch the low speed needle based upon the fact that it looks difficult to get to, correct? Two other quick ones.  First, does the after run get put right into that carb. hole below the high speed needle with the engine off?  Second, is it OK to run this for a couple minutes at a time out of the water? Steve [/quote] Yes ARO(after run oil) goes directly into carb you can also put it in the glow plug hole(with glow plug Removed) Yes it is ok to run the engine for Short Periods without water cooling, If the water jacket is getting To Hot to Touch then you need to stop the engine and let it cool. When the engine is dialed in and Air\Fuel Mixture is Right and Water Cooling, you should be able to touch the water jacket for 2 to 3 seconds before needing to remove your finger from it
Posted on: 4/25/2012 11:47 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11056381

RE: miss bud boat prop shaft help...lost it in the water
The Shaft is just 1\8 steel or stainless steel rod, Pro Boat doesn't offer any parts for that boat anymore so you will either have to make your own or find someone to make it for you. You should be able to get the materials from your local hobby shop. If you have a Good Hobby shop localy you should be able to pick up a [link=http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2847]5-40 Die[/link] to cut the threads on the end.
Posted on: 4/25/2012 5:57 AM by Author "amax" in the forum "Speed - RC Nitro Boats"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11055928