RE: Scratch building 105
Hi Sam, My experience with CF cloth is that it does not take on small curves well. Tends to want to straighten itself out during curing. As for the strands seperating, the strands (called tow) are more loosly woven than glass cloth plus they are made out of thousands of fine filiments for each piece of tow. Possiby two layers of 2 oz CF cloth would have been a better choice. Frankly, I don't mold anything from CF cloth that is small in size and has small curves because it requires constant attention untill the epoxy cures. It's a PITA! This is my persnal opinion and others may have a different one. George
Posted on: 6/1/2012 2:59 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11102142

RE: Scratch building 105
Sam, Picture was found here : http://www.rbogash.com/connie.html Scroll down. In the future please post some pictures of your prototype aircraft when yopu ask for advice about how the model compairs with the prototype. You should really have a spinner on the prop correctly spaced as you make decisions as to how it compairs. As you can see from the photos your cooling duct is sticking out way too far and the shape will be wrong as you pull it back and attach a spinner. I know how dificult it can be to "get it right". Been there and done that. You are doing a great job so don't settle for less than correct. George
Posted on: 5/24/2012 3:14 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093514

RE: Scratch building 105
Hi Sam, You be the judge. George
Posted on: 5/24/2012 2:26 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11092706

RE: Scratch building 105
Hi Sam, Everything looks as if it is coming along great. Keep at it. KISS doesn't apply to models like this. Don't forget to cool the ESCs as you work on cooling the motors. Also, are you going to cut out the windows and install plexiglass panes? George
Posted on: 5/14/2012 3:48 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11079964

RE: Scratch building 105
Hi All, The video of the flaps are from my Tu-95. See it here: http://nasascale.wordpress.com/2012/02/11/tu-95-follow-up/ The flap system that Sam is using on the Connie was designed by Skip Mast and myself, George Maiorana, back in 1997. This system has been used on many planes since then ( B-29, Tu4, Chinese AEW, Tu95 and my future C-133) and has proven to work well. I know Sam is busily working on installing this system in his Connie so I'll post some info on the system. I'll post some picture and if you have any Qs just ask. BTW, if anyone is interested in owing the Chinese AEW let me know. I'm in Detroit. The plane has no motors, servos, batteries- just the airframe with a lot of info to get it in the air. Hope this info helps you understand how this flap system works, George
Posted on: 3/16/2012 4:47 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11002364

RE: Building a Bonanza
You ARE going to add the inner main gear doors?? Arn't YOU!!
Posted on: 7/2/2010 11:33 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9840503

RE: Palmer 132
Hi Sammy, Been watching this thread. Keep up the old Timex tradition. If I may, do not attempt the AWACs version of the C-130. It looks cool but the dome will cause you a lot of building and flying headaches. Trust me on this one. Glad to see you and your dad are doing fine. George[image][/image]
Posted on: 11/27/2009 10:10 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9284399

RE: Spekrum murdered my Corsair
Sorry to hear about your loss. What voltage battery pack, NiMh or NiCad, how old, capacity?
Posted on: 6/28/2009 7:49 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8887633

RE: scale looking cabane struts
If you can find bicycle chain the proper size it works well for both the wing and the strut mount. Saves a lot of time making parts.
Posted on: 6/25/2009 7:02 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8879377

RE: Top Flite Cessna 182 ARF
Here are pictures of the shadowed N numbers and hand hold and foot steps for checking fues levels. pitot tube and GPS ant. next!
Posted on: 6/22/2009 7:05 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8870771

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Sounds like you had a great day. BTW, the Timex saying goes, " It takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin' " :-)
Posted on: 9/21/2008 12:03 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7975628

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Guys, For what it’s worth, here are some of my thoughts on this tube insertion. Cut the hole with a fixture and toothed tube. This would be the best way. Any thought on how much of the tube is needed in each section for proper support of the tip section? Install the tube in one piece and that will insure that both halves are aligned to each other. This will require that the wing and tip be separated by a thin spacer (thickness of a Zona saw blade) so the tube may be cut after the epoxy cures. Since there is no wing sheeting as such, should not the ends of the tubes be supported with “sub� ribs to distribute the load to the foam at the tube tips? The wing, wing tip and “sub� ribs would have perfectly matched holes to the tube and the holes in the foam will always be slightly over sized, which would allow perfect alignment of the tube to the tip and main portion of the wing. It’s tough to get full epoxy contact along the entire length of the foam holes to the tube so the “sub� ribs help to align and support the ends of the tubes. All of these pieces are fitted so they lay in the wing and tip fixture without any binding forces so that when the foam holes, tube and “sub� ribs are coated with slow setting epoxy and placed in the wing fixture they all easily conform to the wing fixture. Weight the tip and main wing in the fixture (this fixture is extremely important to the final alignment of both pieces- don’t skimp on it), step back and let the epoxy cure over night, slip out the thin spacer, cut the tube at the joint, insert the aluminum tube and finish by installing the anti rotational pins for and aft. The aluminum tube can be epoxied into the outer wing tip and the inner end has to be secured to the main wing section. When all of this is ready to be final assembled with epoxy be sure to block off the ends of the tube with 1/16 balsa so no epoxy can get into the tube during assembly.
Posted on: 8/29/2008 5:10 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7898134

RE: Scale Nationals (NATS)
See what planning does for you. I had ordered the weather a few weeks ago when I knew the Bear would be ready. It took some time to get it all together but I think it was worth it. Nobody was more nervous than I was when Dave began the first takeoff roll. I think it was a 10! The landing was a 10 also. Here is a photochoped image of the landing. What a great weekend it turned out to be! Great weather and great friends to see and get reaquainted with. My thanks to all for the kind words and help with the Bear. Hmmmmm, what next? I'm thinking it might be a .............
Posted on: 8/12/2008 8:05 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7838897

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Hi Sammy, Sorry we got cut off yesterday. Yes, some type of full circular backing for the back of the end cap will be in order for the blind nuts ( maybe 1/4 lite ply). Be sure the backing is in complete contact with the end cap ( scuff the inside of the cap with 60 grit?) and epoxied against it. . If I read you right the epoxy cloth (6 or ten oz cloth would better) will be on the "outside" not "inside" of the PVC cap. Let's see what others have to say. Good talking to you. George
Posted on: 7/23/2008 7:57 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7762487

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Sammy, not to get you off track but if you mount the cowl plug ( after it is entirely primed, waxed and ready to make the mold) to a flat plate and use clay to fill in the "green" area you should be able to use epoxy/glass for the mold. Two piece mold of course.
Posted on: 7/10/2008 6:43 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7716337

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Sammy, I see you have been busy. Looks very nice.
Posted on: 7/10/2008 6:31 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7716300

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Ask others for their opinion but I think if you take a 4 x 4 inch balsa block and slice 1.5 inches ( whatever thickness you need to space the mount) off of it you will have a very light and substantial "spacer". The grain runs 90 degree to the firewall and you can taper the spacer from max ( at the fire wall) to the size of the rear of the motor mount. Bolt the motor mount to blind nuts behind the existing fire wall. Be sure to fuel proof the spacer's end grain behind the mount before fuel proofing the entire spacer/firewall assembly. That's my 2 cents.
Posted on: 7/10/2008 6:25 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7716278

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Ok. What's wrong with this??? Not to scale!
Posted on: 7/10/2008 6:01 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7716210

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Hi Sammy, Thanks for the 4th greeting. I think the "cowl dome" should be only a beauty piece. It is going to be difficult to make it strong enough to support a fire wall and the running of the engine. ByLoudDesign has it correct and you should be able to use some type of motor mount to your existing fire wall to bring the engine out to it's proper position. What are we missing?
Posted on: 7/10/2008 7:31 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7714360

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Here is what I suggested for the cowl when I talked to Sammy. A minimum of three molds. 1 The rear section is actually part of the nacelle and should be a separate mold/piece. A single mold works here. 2. I just finished the scoops on my cowls a few months ago and they were made seperate and done with RTV so the piece could be molded easily. Attachment to cowl was easy to accomplish. A single mold for this part from RTV. 3. The main part of the cowl containing the cowl flaps and the upper scoop would be a separate mold/piece . Just makes sense for ease of molding the part and cutting the cowl flaps later to open them a little. Possibly a single mold would work. The upper scoop looks as if it tapers to the back and would allow the part to be removed from a single mold. Two piece mold cut down the vertical centerline would make it easier to lay-up. Here are the pictures we talked about. Whacha think?
Posted on: 6/19/2008 12:37 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7637524

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Sammy, Do you ever sleep? Nice job on the cowl. Here is a picture of my Tu-95 IB nacelle plug. It's made of white beaded polystyrene, filed with Red Devil ( Onetime light weight) spackling, coated with West system epoxy, filled with Bondo ( the blue), final coat of West system epoxy, sanded and then primed. No interaction between any of the materials. I have made many plugs this way without a problem. No cloth needed. Handle with care as the plug will be an egg shell but it goes in the trash after the mold is made. Keep on ticking! George
Posted on: 6/16/2008 4:38 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7623883

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Hey Timex, I see your modeling life is turning around. Keep on plugging away. Hope the Connie turns out well. Flaps whenever. BTW, since your life is turning around, here is another helpfull hint. Epoxy doesn't dry it cures ( a chemical reaction). I'm sure Flitemetal can take this to a new (wordy) high :-) Cheers, Ampbomber
Posted on: 6/13/2008 8:23 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7614268

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
be under 2#. Ampbomber
Posted on: 6/6/2008 6:30 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7586878

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Ed, actually we compaired the size of the Tu-4 (B- 29 clone) to Sammy's Connie and I believe we found them to be about the same size. Each flap on the Tu-4 is 3.5 x 31 inches, plus the inboard 7 inches is 4.5 inches wide. The Ttu-95 is a bit more complicated due to the flaps being split by the IB main gear housing. The Tu-4 uses an older Futaba 9602 sail servo 130 oz/in (at 4.8V) and was difficult to disassemble to modify but the Tu-95 uses a Futaba 3802 152 oz/in sail servo ( at 6V) and comes apart easily for modification.
Posted on: 4/24/2008 4:17 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7414690

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Sammy, I'm still confused about your flaps. I thought you had said that each side was one piece. Please post a picture of the bottom of your wing.
Posted on: 4/23/2008 4:50 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7410550

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Try and remember that I only use one 150 oz/in servo to drive both the right and the left flap and that drives both at the same time. I did modify the sail servo ( it's proportional) for 180 degree rotation so it could be slowed down with the Tx.
Posted on: 4/23/2008 12:46 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7409627

RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Sammy, probably off to one side and inch or so would be best.
Posted on: 4/21/2008 12:24 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7400648

RE: Tu-95: Swept Wing Design???
Hi Chris, Here we are a year and a half later. I finally finished my Tu-95 and it was a "Bear" to complete. Lost your email address with computer problems so here are a few pictures. We plan to fly in August. George
Posted on: 4/11/2008 4:50 AM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7364748

RE: Toledo Show pics
Hi, The Tu-95 is my build. It's covered with "Flite-Metal". The plane is electric and will be flying on contra-rotating 12 inch custom props. It took 4 1/2 years to build, 1:18.5 scale, WS 108 inches, AUW 32lb, Futaba 14MZ 2.4 guidance and powered with MaxCim motors on 5s Lipo packs per motor. The plan is to fly her this year at the NATS in Team Scale. Thanks for the kind words. George
Posted on: 4/10/2008 6:51 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7362706

RE: Need help with some Cub details please
Here are some.
Posted on: 3/13/2008 3:28 PM by Author "ampbomber" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7219251