RE: Newbie Q: Iz worthy of purchase?
@BMatthews You make some valid points. I've been mulling it around and I'm split 50/50 on going scale, since I enjoy a scale model, or going hobby grade for the thermal reasons you stated. Of course, I wonder just how much thermal flying I'll find in Maryland. My point being, there aren't a whole lot of gliders in this part of the country. Also, I'm not completely focused on thermal flying. It would be a bonus, I guess. I'm leaning towards a powered glider for the days where the wind is a bit too much for my typical flying style but would be perfect for a glider. Thoughts? Thanks for the insights, this is really helping. Any other recommendations are welcome. _aw
Posted on: 8/3/2012 6:28 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11179488

Newbie Q: Iz worthy of purchase?
@all I'm looking to invest some dollars (albeit not too many dollars) into a sailplane / powered glider. I'm not intersted in foam and want to keep the cost of the kit around $125-200. I found the ASK21 EP Glider 2600mm Fiberglass on Hobby King and was surprised of the cost relative to its size. I'm an experienced flier and builder but, wasn't sure if anyone had any thoughts on HK sailplane kits. I was also contemplating the Hobby Lobby Super Dimona (http://www.hobby-lobby.com/superdimona.htm). I've got the following sitting around and waiting to be used: (2) 3200 mAh11.1v 3-cell Turnigy 60A brushless programmable ESC w/BEC Turnigy 1450Kv brushless outrunner All electronics required (from previous aircraft) I appreciate the more scale like models but, also am interested in being able to catch thermals (or learn how to). I don't have a tow plane or a cliff, so powered gliders are esential. Also, being able to handle some wind (15-20mph) is essential. Thanks to anyone willing to help, I appreciate it. _andrew
Posted on: 8/2/2012 5:57 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11178266

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
@Ken Thanks for the heads up on the cowling / cooling. I know I've run into issues like that in the past and I think the longer in the tooth I get in this hobby the more and more I realize what I don't know. After a solid 3 runs this weekend the engine was performing quite well but, I think it might be a bit hotter then it should. Which begs the question of what is a "red line" temperature for running glow engines? Does a temp range even exist? I've been contemplating a temp gun for a while but, I'm the kind of person that loves to mess around with my engines (take them apart, inspect them, rebuild them, etc.) and loves to keep them in optimal condition. Plus, having it to experiment with baffling / running temps would help since "to the touch" measuring is completely inaccurate (and painful). _andrew
Posted on: 7/23/2012 11:00 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11165919

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
@Scale Dail No worries here. Take your time… I'm just excited to show off the aircraft now that I've gotten the jitters out having not flow in over a year and being uber protective of a more personal build (vs. an ARF 8 hour assemble). Additionally, I have a SBD-3 Dauntless Guillows kit that's been 1/3 complete for over a year, still sitting in the box. I'm converting to electric with working retracts, etc. Think this build, only smaller! I even had a thread at one time: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8368349/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm Take ur time Scale. Isn't that what this is all about? Cheers!
Posted on: 7/23/2012 5:53 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11165538

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
> "Clear Two Six Right." On approach... and landing.
Posted on: 7/22/2012 5:39 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164985

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
> Proofs In The Pix Since we can't seem to post more then one pic per thread in the elect-2-glow converstion thread, here's a few pictures of the Texan on a fly-by. The weather was perfect for flying but, not so much for pictures since we had low, very dark clouds rolling through. Either way, one more in the next thread of a landing. _andrew
Posted on: 7/22/2012 5:38 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11164982

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
@Ken I'm not too familiar with the 1/3 rule. At first I was contemplating building out what you mentioned above (as I have a faux engine cover) but, I was worried such a small opening wouldn't give me the air flow I needed. Does the 1/3 rule create more of a venturi effect? How does it increased the airflow through the space? It seems odd that smaller is better but, I'm never set in my ways and always looking to learn more. _andrew
Posted on: 7/20/2012 12:52 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11162699

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
> Baffling? I don't see no stinkin' baffling For anyone who's curious or wondering, here are a few pictures of the engine "baffling" that I installed into my E-flite Texan. I quote "baffling" because by definition what I did was more along the lines of velocity cooling. Either way, I stopped all the air from flowing out the back of the cowl (by original design) and forced it around the engine, down around the muffler, and out the bottom. And after two solid flights if found this solution worked really well.
Posted on: 7/15/2012 5:42 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11156543

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
> The "real" Maiden Unfortunately I do not have any in-flight video or images of the North American during my flights today so the attached image will have to serve as proof. I ventured out in the 100+ degree weather on a mission, whilst my wife (the photographer) decided it was best to save her sanity and stay cool. Of course, afterward, I realized she was the smart one. Regardless, I got in a solid 12+ minutes of flight time today. One flight with gear down and the other flight gear up. The baffling worked great and after landing the engine temp was good; even on a scorching hot day. On final approach of flight 2 a strong cross wind knocked me about causing a prop strike but no other damage. As for flight characteristics; with an O.S. .25 you'll get a more scale-like take off since it needs more time to get up its airspeed. You won't be able to do huge loops, sustained inverted flight, or other more extreme maneuvers but, that's not what I wanted anyway. I'll be sure to get some in-flight pix and video when my wife has the opportunity to get out with me. Till then, I'll say it again… This project was a great one.
Posted on: 7/8/2012 3:01 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147832

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
> Truly Baffling I've been able to narrow down my engine issues to overheating. While I do have a completely open cowl, the out-flow of air is weak due to too small of an exit region at the bottom of the cowl used for the muffler. Additionally, I need to build some engine baffling to help redirect the airflow out as it's getting trapped inside. So my engines still tuned great and purr's at 2600RPM on the low end and 12,100RPM on the high end (running rich). I just need to make one more modification and we're flying again. I'll be certain to post pics and maybe a video if I can get one recorded sooner then later. @scale dail What's wrong with your cockpit? Or are you thinking of building it out?
Posted on: 6/29/2012 9:40 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136580

RE: O.S. .25 SF (circa '92) Manual or Part # Needed
@Bill Your knowledge is really is making a difference in how I look at installing my engines moving forward. Especially with my enjoyment of converting smaller .25 sized electrics to glow power. I think since my cowl is completely open on the front (per the previous post picture) I'm going to concentrate as much as possible on getting smooth airflow over the engine but, more importantly ensuring that it's exiting at a good rate as well. I'm testing my baffling concepts by creating them in cardboard, placing on the cowl, and then using a blow dryer to test and monitor the out flow of air. Seems to be working well so far.
Posted on: 6/29/2012 9:26 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11136562

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
And The Verdict Is In After some pondering about responses, emailing some people, and talking to Tom, the verdict is not a bad battery but a battery not capable of handling my micro-servos. Tom was kind enough to send me his own NoBS battery LiFe 6v to test on my set-up and it was clear that the issue was a combination of both my switch and poor battery performance from an otherwise good quality NiMH. Now, I'm not saying that one battery is better then another or that one set up is better or out performs another. No, that's not it. We all have what works for us and that is clear from the diverse approaches to my issue. I'm saying I found my issue thanks to everyone here and solved a problem that was keeping me from hitting the skies. That's what I like about this hobby. Each has their own unique approach to a problem and everyone is willing to offer up help. So, that being said, thank you everyone. Cheers!
Posted on: 6/28/2012 8:22 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11135929

RE: O.S. .25 SF (circa '92) Manual or Part # Needed
@Bill Thanks for the insights on the O.S. .25 SF. I really appreciate the feedback, and in such a quick manner. As far as the engine is concerned I believe that my issues surround the overheating you spoke to. I've tuned the engine to the point that it idles at 2600RPM with no fluctuation in power at all and on the high end get a consistent 12,090RPM (+/- 100). And that's with it running somewhat rich. I have two additional questions/comments: Do you have any resources (i.e., URL links) that show good examples of building baffles for a T-6 style cowl / engine installation? Or perhaps do you have any personal recommendations? Note: The final installation does include an exhaust exit for a pitts muffler, however, it is cut close to the pipes and might need to be made larger, given the situation (see the attached image for my set up or here is the thread on the build) What physically happens to the engine that causes the RPMs to decrease when the engine heats up? Thank you again for all your help Bill. It really has shed excellent light on my situation. _andrew
Posted on: 6/26/2012 6:57 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11133174

O.S. .25 SF (circa '92) Manual or Part # Needed
@OS Guru I have an O.S. .25 SF that I purchased quite a while back and am looking to get a new piston sleeve (reason below). Clearly they don't manufacture the engine but, I'd like to find out if there is a comparable .25 that's built today that I can purchase parts from. If so, what engine? I'd really like to keep this engine going as it was my first r/c engine, and thus means a lot to me. Here's a link to another thread with pix of my OS .25. The Reason: I'm loosing power in-flight as the engine runs longer and I'm fairly certain the compression is becoming less and less as the engine heats up. I don't have any issues during idle (approx. 2500RPM on idle) but the longer it runs it starts to loose power. It's an open faced cowling (E-flite Texan conversion to glow) so getting air through the cooling fins doesn't seem to be an issue. Either way, I'd like to know if there is an existing engine out there I can swap parts with. Thank you. _aw
Posted on: 6/25/2012 1:38 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "O.S. Engines Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131433

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
> Victory! (well, kinda'...) I was finally able to get the Harvard into the sky for a one flight maiden and it flew wonderful after I was able to get all things trimmed out. 3/4 throttle and it cruises nicely and banks like a dream (of course, props to the pilot .. yeah, I'm pumping my own ego here... haha!). The only snafu is my engine lost power unexpectedly and I had to land "off field" in the high grasses / shrubs since it happened during a lower fly by. One gear slightly bent, wing ding, and some paint chips but, all is good. As long as I can get the engine issue solved, I'm a very happy camper. E-flite T-6 Texan Conversion to Glow = LIKE!
Posted on: 6/24/2012 2:15 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11130060

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
@83scamp The reason for the digital servos goes back a few years ago when I purchased them. Their original intended purpose was for a high end powered glider that never ended up happening. Why? That's another story altogether, but I digress. Regardless, I've used these in a previous conversion (E-flite Pawnee 25e, converted to glow) with no issues. And now…I have issues. It's weird, I know. So, I'm checking my options. As for "old school", I have a 6+ year old Piper Cub with a Saito .62 in it that flies NiMH and analog servos like a charm. Never had issues, so I keep it running "as is". @raptureboy Yup, that's on the top of my list and I'm peepin' the details now. I've also had many many persons recommend NoBS and I'm impressed with their battery pack quality.
Posted on: 6/23/2012 10:09 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11129415

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
@truckracer (or @everyone) Question: Am I in danger of loosing my RX connection (a.k.a brown-out) due to the issues at hand? (and btw, why do they call it a brown out.....?) I'm running a Spektrum DX7 with an AR6200 full range receiver, if anyone is curious. As for testing, I've done quite a bit already and I'm beginning to think that truckracer is right, I just need a beefier battery that can handle higher current demands. I'm thinking NiCd as I have a charger that can accommodate and I don't own a charger that can accommodate LiFe.
Posted on: 6/20/2012 8:29 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11126049

HS-5085MG: What is a proper power supply?
I need some assistance to ensure that I have the proper power supply for my servo set-up in one of my aircraft. I've talked to an RCU member (tomf) and while we did some trouble shooting I'd like to get the input of a Hitech professional. Here is a thread of the discussion before I knew this location existed: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_11111298/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm I'm getting some odd feedback on my Click here to visit the Hobbico.com website Hobbico VoltWatch and am seeking some insight and assistance. The Set Up E-flite 25 Texan (converted to glow) w/.25 O.S. 2-stroke 5 Hitech HS-5085MG Use your Laptop PC for making precision digital measurements of incidence & control throws! Digital BB Metal Gear Mighty Micro Servos (ailerons, elevator, rudder, throttle) NiMH 4C 4.8V 2000mAh Receiver Pack Hobbico VoltWatch Meter (set to 4.8V) E-flite 90 degree retracts The issue Freshly charged battery (it's new), inspected and not damaged servos (I'm the only owner), proper installation of electronics (done this numerous times), but when I start moving control surfaces (e.g., ailerons, elevator, etc.) the VoltWatch lights up like a christmas tree all the way down to the red. Stop moving surfaces, and then we're solid green. I've seen this before but no so severe and I'm wondering A) Do I need a larger battery to power the servos, or B) Is the VoltWatch damaged? I'm having a hard time thinking that 5 micro servos pull that much juice. Any assistance would be of great help.
Posted on: 6/20/2012 5:40 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11124923

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
@V2PLUS10 I'm going to use a setup that I've used in the past and put a CastleCreations 25 speed controller in between the battery and receiver..... but..... now that I talk about it, I remembered that Hobbico's VoltWatch2 only works with NiCd or NiMH. Grrr...... anyone got a suggestion for a volt meter for LiPo's?
Posted on: 6/19/2012 8:12 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11124634

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
@all I had a good conversation with Tom over the phone and I'm going to try another approach to the whole issue with servo power. I have a Thunder Power LiPo 3cell 1350mAh 11.1v pack that I used for an electric (attached pic) and I'm going to test using that set up. I'm wondering if the digital servos just need more juice pumped out to them and a 13C continuous and 20C burst should do the trick. If not, I give up (not really). I also have been taking a look at LiFe power cells, per your and Tom's advice, and perhaps that might be the way to go. I'm a bit hesitant putting a soft cell (lipo) into a glow powered aircraft vs. a hard cell (LiFe) but, that's just me. Details to come.
Posted on: 6/19/2012 7:37 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11124601

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
@scale dail Thought you might get a kick out of this location. It's the manual for the SNJ Harvard: http://aviationshoppe.com/at6-snj-harvard-documents-manuals-a-56.html Take a peek at the image where they mention stalling in the full scale. After reading up on the Harvard last year, I found that they re-designed the airplane wing quite a few times to help reduce any stalling problems. When I was looking at the wing design of the E-flite kit I realized that they changed it dramatically by adding more dihedral thus, creating more inherit stability and reducing the chance of getting into a stall. But, if you don't understand the concept of a stall and how it occurs (or how to recover) there's little that a manufacturer can do to prevent a pilot from getting into one.
Posted on: 6/17/2012 12:51 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11121397

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
> Staring Skyward Weekend #2 attempt and this time all went great. Engine tuned to perfection, muffler sealed off, all electronics ready, but the weather decided to not play nice. Bummer. Winds were too strong (15+MPH) for a maiden and at times the gusts were as high as 25+ so, yeah, that's a no go for a plane this size. So close! Here's a pic of the Harvard on the flight bench (after a good engine tune) looking lonely as we stood by and watched the winds blow. Flight pix and video for a final overview when we hit the skies. This has been one great project. _andrew
Posted on: 6/16/2012 2:42 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11120428

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
@blhollo2 Interesting you should mention Elite battery packs. That's the exact battery pack that I was using years ago in the E-flite Pawnee (converted to glow). I simply migrated all the electronics to the Texan, and come to think about it, I never saw this happen. Well, perhaps the pack is shot....? Either way, we'll get an answer....thanks! @all Thanks for all the insights. I truly appreciate all the help. I apologize for not responding, however, I've been in Muncie IN at the AMA headquarters for the past few days; of all places. I'll have a few responses coming and I'm hopping that I can get this whole thing figured out. I'll most definately let everyone know the final outcome. Cheers!
Posted on: 6/14/2012 6:18 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11117833

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
@all Thanks for the insights and advice. After a conversation with a gentleman at the field today (whilst running in my engine) he mentioned that at a minimum it would be best to switch to a 6v battery. And I agree. I'm contemplating these two options below. Any thoughts? http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/2150mah-6-0v-nimh-receiver-pack-SPMB2150NM http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNHS4&P=ML @Tom I'll PM you soon. I'm getting ready to travel for a few days so I'll be unable to talk but, I do want to talk. @Charlie. P / flycatch I was thinking something along your lines that the static state of the VoltWatch 2 is a more accurate reading of what's going on. But to be on the safe side I'm most certainly switching to a 6v pack. I'm continuing to do further testing with my existing (but old) 6v and am finding that these little digital servos really pull juice vs. my Piper Cub standard Futaba S3003 analog set up. @p39 I've been using a wall charger for my battery packs since I was flying and have never had any issues. I typically replace my receiver batteries once every 1 1/2 years and the wall chargers have never let me down. I'm also one that charges 12 hours ahead of time, every time, to be safe. I own a Great Planes Triton Jr. that I use for my LiPo's, I'm assuming that this would work well. Again, I've never done much cycling or discharging with my receiver packs.
Posted on: 6/9/2012 3:35 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11112589

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
@Tom I did test the set up by directly plugging it into the receiver and, unfortunately, the same result. Then I went back to my Piper Cub set-up (analog servos/2000mAh NiMH) there was a fraction of the lights jumping around. I'm using Hitech Metal Gear 5085's at: 1 for rudder, 2 for elevator, 2 for aileron. I'm using a Feather Servo for the throttle. I'll be at the flying field tomorrow a.m. doing an engine run but, given the current situation I'll probably forego any flying. Thanks for the PM offer, I think I'll take you up on it. Look for a message tomorrow Tom. I much appreciate it. @pilotpete2 As far as the landing gear… when I performed my gear up/down test the lights only flickered slightly but never beyond the 3rd green light. To me that was odd but refreshing. So I'm hoping we can rule out the gear causing any issues. Hoping…
Posted on: 6/8/2012 9:34 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111949

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
@All Not that this is required but, here's a pic of the VoltWatch 2 "in action" (for your reference).
Posted on: 6/8/2012 5:53 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111749

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
@All Thank you for the rapid fire feedback. It's been an immense help. Here's the rundown of my tests thus far (followed by confusion). 1) Double-checked my VoltMeter: It's set to 4.8V. 2) Tested additional 5 cell 1600mAh and 4 cell 2000mAh NiHM battery packs. 3) Replaced the battery switch with a larger gage wire switch 4) Tried an additional VoltWatch I had laying around. … and the same results! So I nabbed a full set of analog servos ($12 Futaba S3003; 5 total) tried 4.8V 2000mAh, then switched to 6V 1600mAh… and again, the same thing. If I hold position on, say, the elevator or aileron the flickering stops and we're good. But when you simply move anything, it all lights up. Analog servos, digital micro servos, 4.8V, 6V… all with the same results. This is really weirding me out. I've not had issues like this before. Could 2 of my VoltWatch meters be "fried"? My concern is the radio going into fail safe mode if the voltage goes to low. I don't have the cash to spring on all new guts (that's spendy) but this is weird… Oh, for those wondering, attached is a pic of the aircraft. And as for the weight - even with the RX battery shoved all the way up front I still have to add more to get it to balance out on the CG. So far it's at 4lbs 4oz with a required 4.25oz needed to balance it out. _aw
Posted on: 6/8/2012 5:35 PM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111727

RE: Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
Thought #1: Ummm, I might have answered my own question (I think).... is the Hobbico VoltWatch 2 only for 5 cell packs? Could that be my issue? Again, any and all assistance would be awesome! Thought #2: I've read that poor gage quality of the power switch wires (battery-2-receiver) might cause issues as well. ???
Posted on: 6/8/2012 10:01 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111305

Digital Servos + 2000mAh NiMH = Huh!?
@all I'm getting some odd feedback on my Hobbico VoltWatch and am seeking some insight and assistance. The Set Up E-flite 25 Texan (converted to glow) w/.25 O.S. 2-stroke 5 Hitech HS-5085MG Digital BB Metal Gear Mighty Micro Servos (ailerons, elevator, rudder, throttle) NiMH 4C 4.8V 2000mAh Receiver Pack Hobbico VoltWatch Meter (set to 4.8V) E-flite 90 degree retracts The issue Freshly charged battery (it's new), inspected and not damaged servos (I'm the only owner), proper installation of electronics (done this numerous times), but when I start moving control surfaces (e.g., ailerons, elevator, etc.) the VoltWatch lights up like a christmas tree all the way down to the red. Stop moving surfaces, and then we're solid green. I've seen this before but no so severe and I'm wondering A) Do I need a larger battery to power the servos, or B) Is the VoltWatch damaged? I'm having a hard time thinking that 5 micro servos pull that much juice. Any assistance would be of great help.
Posted on: 6/8/2012 9:22 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111298

RE: E Flite AT-6 Texan Convert to GLOW!
> Tight Fit & Weight Confirmed All electronics are installed and the total dry weight (no fuel in the tank) is 4lbs 4oz. However, even with my receiver battery installed behind the engine firewall and my servos pushed as forward as you can get, I still need to add 4.25 oz of additional lead weight (1 1/2 bars of Great Planes Segmented Lead Weights) in the cowl to balance the airplane. @acdii Talk about not enough room! I'll post a picture of my installation soon. The front of the plane is packed back to back with fuel tank, fuel valve, batttery, etc. and I still need to add weight in order to balance the CG.
Posted on: 6/8/2012 7:32 AM by Author "apwachholz" in the forum "Electrics to Glow Conversions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111179