RE: New Zenoah GT-80 misfire
I'd try a heavy duty switch in place of the ignition cut-off for a few test flights, in an attempt to further narrow down the source. It is a GT80 or ZP80? (Magneto or EI?)
Posted on: 5/17/2013 11:27 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11514396

RE: Quadra 150
without seeing the module, hard to tell, but it does look a lot like the setup I had with a GT80 zenoah, using the original spark coils, along with a newer CH module. It certainly would be an inexpensive conversion to just go with RCexl, if what's under the hood is questionable.
Posted on: 1/25/2012 12:28 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10927247

RE: GT-80 and DLE111 Mufflers
I used DLE 55 mufflers on my G62's, and DLE111 mufflers on my GT80, they work just fine. The muffler mounting flange on the Zenoahs is elongated, or slotted, allowing for SOME adjustment, within reason. The 1mm per side you are all referring to, is within reason :) and worked great for me! The DLE mufflers are also among the lightest of their kind! You can find square nuts at any good hardware store that will fit perfectly into the flange, I believe they were 10/32 if my memory serves me right. I had no trouble swapping out the included muffler blots for the proper length of 10/32 to match up the set and make things work.
Posted on: 1/19/2012 12:50 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10917325

RE: Fuel system setup
+1 on Maxx's post.... and I would recommend not using the filler valve at all. It only opens up an additional place for leaks. Keep it simple, and straight forward and you will be glad you did later.
Posted on: 12/19/2011 12:46 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10866819

RE: Excessive Oil Residue from Zenoah G26
Also, the engine isn't overcooled by being uncowled. In fact it may very well be running warmer than if it were properly baffled ;) It IS out of tune, with the plug in the condition yours is in. Make the effort, and take the time to tune it properly right off the bat. Pay close attention to it through the first 5 gallons of gas or so, as the engine breaks in it will require further fine tuning. Engines I have seen at the field, running lawn boy, in the old days, were all a mess. The plugs would easily fowl, and as most would repeat here on the forums, the oil does more harm than good, for our two strokes. There are many better oils to choose from.
Posted on: 10/13/2011 1:45 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10763639

RE: Questions Regarding Older Zenoah Engine
yup....echo that Karol :)
Posted on: 10/13/2011 1:32 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10763611

RE: 3W 70
get a carb kit, and you might invest in a RCEXL ignition, due to known issues with some of the older 3w ignitions. Please do NOT buy machined aluminum standoffs for this engine in such a long length. Build them yourself from hardwood square or round stock. I prefer square stock, so they can then be easily boxed for added strength.
Posted on: 9/28/2011 6:25 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10738189

RE: PROBLEM WITH 17CC GASSER
Is this a conversion engine? Will it start and run at all with both needles open 1 to 1-1/2 turns? If so, carefully lean the low end needle first, while adjusting your idle lower, and lower with the TX or linkage on a stand. You will reach a point where you can no longer increase the idle rpm with low needle adjustment. See if you can reach a decent idle at all, then open it back up just enough to get you a smooth transition...and adjust the high end needle from there. Small tweaks at either end should get you settled in, with some time on it. Somewhere along that road, there will be clues as to what the engine needs, that it isn't getting.
Posted on: 9/16/2011 1:01 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10719787

RE: Which gasser for Bud Nosen Cub?
Though pretty cool, if done right....the 50cc in 1/4 scale cubs and similar craft does require special care, especially if you plan to push the left stick fully forward :) I think you are on the right track with the 30, 3d performance comes in at around 11-12lbs with the 30, depending how good of a 3d pilot you are. So your weight, and desired performance sounds about dead on for your cub and the 30.
Posted on: 9/16/2011 11:58 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10719701

RE: PROBLEM WITH 17CC GASSER
Does the engine respond to low end needle tuning on the carb, or do adjustments to the low end seem to have no affect?
Posted on: 9/16/2011 11:29 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10719657

RE: Back Pressure?
Did you retune the engine? I'm going to assume you are running a two-stroke, and they can be very responsive to muffler changes of any kind. I would be certain to retune properly before modifying the muffler.
Posted on: 9/13/2011 6:58 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10714345

RE: G-62
I doubt you would gain much, if any, if the spring unit bearings were in good shape, and lubed well. It is weight that you will lose, which in the end, increases power to weight ratio. However, in most warbirds, this loss in weight will not likely be any advantage at all.
Posted on: 9/8/2011 8:32 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10707134

RE: Battery & balance
If it has servos in the tail, move em up under the canopy/hatch area, and use pull-pull systems for both rudder and elevator.
Posted on: 11/22/2010 9:20 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10151512

RE: Z62 timing set up
The Mag equipped engines take more of a slap start, to quickly pass the engine through the compression stroke and get a healthy spark. I'd have the prop at about 11 and 5 o clock positions (assuming two blade here) as the top blade is just against compression. Secure the prop to the hub in this position. Back it off to about 2 o clock with the top blade (before compression) for starting, and with a good leather glove, provide a quick almost 'slap' start. You will get the hang of this. Practice several times with ignition off until you get the hang of it. With the engine correctly tuned it is pretty easy, so take your time to tune the engine and you will be in good shape!
Posted on: 11/18/2010 12:36 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10143188

RE: Great planes ultimate 160
I use the same method you do, with the drill, and have yet to experience a stripping problem in appropriately sized ball links on the correct threaded rod. I never use JBweld however. When I meet resistance, I back it out a couple turns and that's it. I might fine tune the length based on the need, but they usually come out within a turn of being where I need them. If you have extra links around, perhaps from other projects, and happened to use the titanium links like Hangar 9 sells, perhaps you had one already threaded for LH, and when 're-threading' it unintentionally for RH, you have weakened it? I've run into this, before I learned to separate LH from RH threaded links after being installed on rod. The links I use (primarily H9 and Dubro) all last a very long time and don't loosen much, if at all even after being removed and reinstalled, with no adhesive of any kind.
Posted on: 11/17/2010 2:21 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10141420

RE: gas tank placing
It needs to be inside, or attached to the aircraft, somewhere....other than that, you are good. :) It might take a few extra cranks to pump gas through dry lines if it is further away, but while running, it won't know the difference. It's not like most glow engines that don't have pumps. Place the tank where it works best for your application. I usually aim for mounting on or near the CG of the RTF plane, so I can tweak the desired balance point with batteries and maintain that balance from full tank, to empty. It's height as compared to the center of the carb is a moot point.
Posted on: 11/15/2010 3:09 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10136996

RE: ZENOAH G-62 INVERTED ?
I think folks see others at the field starting their EI engines, with lazy two finger flips, starting at compression. You will fail and likely get bitten back doing this with the oem mag ignition equipped engines. Passing them quickly through compression, with plenty of headstart works fine, as noted above, when properly tuned. I'd spend the time to get to know your engine, and really understand strong tuning techniques. Spend less money and carry less weight too ;)
Posted on: 11/12/2010 11:52 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10131075

RE: ZENOAH G-62 INVERTED ?
Pat, I thought for sure you were going to get on here and tell em they have to start the engine clockwise if they mount it inverted :) Or maybe that they have to hold the plane upside down to start it....the list could go on and on ;)
Posted on: 11/11/2010 9:20 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10128551

RE: Great planes ultimate 160
The firewall is already keyed, the parts were lasercut to interlock, which helps. Pinning through the engine box sides and into the material of the firewall iteself, increases it's ability to stand up to the vibration and stress the engine induces. Use toothpicks, small diameter wood dowel from the hardware store, carbon rod, anything you like. On this plane I am pretty sure I used carbon, just cuz I had some nearby. I usually prefer to drill small holes, and use toothpicks, with the points trimmed off. I liberally apply elmer's wood glue, tap them in, and trim them flush. The wood glue expands the wood, making the joint very good. CA, epoxy, gorilla glue...etc would work fine too. As for hinges, I used Rocket City fabric hinges. They are a CA type hinge, just better material than the alternatives. The 16lb plane was punished hard by it's modified and lightened G62, and exhibited no issue using these hinges. Robarts or similar would be fine too, just more work.
Posted on: 11/5/2010 3:50 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10117318

RE: Great planes ultimate 160
....and I would recommend testing a sample with scrap wood, slotted similarly, using the same hinge. You want to know how this process goes before you get started hinging an entire surface with this stuff. You'll have to babysit the GG a bit to catch and clean up the excess as it expands and cures. If you aren't used to the process, you'll clean it up and set it aside thinking you are good to go, and later find expanded GG cured where you don't want it and very difficult to address.
Posted on: 11/5/2010 9:57 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10116811

RE: Hanger 9 150 Mustang - my goof!
Longer lengths, in cap head screws can be hard to find at some hardware stores. Around here we have some good shops that carry odd lengths and sizes. If you have a Fastenal near you, check with them, they have been great for me in this hobby. You might have luck finding a 10-32 slotted or phillips head screw that is long enough however, as they are more common at the hardware stores. Some have also used all-thread, and nutted the end at the tip of the spinner. It would work, but with that nice model I'm guessing you won't want anything like that on the front of your plane....nor would I. If this isn't your last model, nor your last spinner of this type....do yourself a favor and get yourself a few packages of the longest ones from tru-turn. Each time you need one, trim to fit with your cut off wheel, and when you sell or trade off your spinners, never send the screw with em, since they are catered more for the engine and adapter, than the spinner itself. I've got a bag full of different lengths i have accumulated over the years, over 20 for sure.
Posted on: 11/4/2010 12:57 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10115008

RE: Hanger 9 150 Mustang - my goof!
Perhaps you just need a longer bolt, since the p51 uses a rather large spinner. Tru-turn sells the bolts (same size used with Dave Brown) in various long lengths, that can be trimmed to fit your application. Another tip: balance that spinner, every DB I had was out a bit!!! Figure out how long the bolt needs to be, and order accordingly, you can get em up to 6" in length: http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store/agora.cgi?keywords=SCF&ppinc=1aparts&maxp=30
Posted on: 11/4/2010 9:17 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10114655

RE: Hangar 9 150 P-47 retracts
Post a picture of the retract linkage of the good one, and the drooping one, with gear up and problem evident, as well as gear down, and locked.
Posted on: 11/2/2010 5:19 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10111540

RE: Engine repair
PM 'antique' right here on RCU. ...dangit Pat! :)
Posted on: 10/26/2010 3:08 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10095691

RE: Fule line routing question.
Yes it is the vent line, and it has nothing to do with air bubbles, it is to assist with the prevention of siphoning while working on the model, or maneuvering it around your shop...etc. While running, the gas can't siphon out.
Posted on: 10/19/2010 3:14 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10079103

RE: gt-80 low end inconsistent
The SDC 80 is already sold. In that engine, I was running Pennzoil 32:1....my only guess is that the carb behavior was affected by the extensive baffling, for engine cooling. I didn't provision for a separate fresh air chamber for the carb, since it was behind the engine and air was drawn straight down through the cylinders from above. I never had any trouble after fine tuning, so I didn't worry about it.
Posted on: 10/15/2010 3:17 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10070697

RE: gt-80 low end inconsistent
I had an 80 mounted on an H9 33% Sukhoi too, stock WJ-64 (no check valve in the circuit), DLE111 mufflers, RcExl ignition, Mejzlik 24x10th prop. I bought the SDC 80 carb right away, expecting the same problem, but never did experience it.
Posted on: 10/15/2010 10:16 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10070129

RE: Zenoah 38 EI for Dynaflite Decathlon?
Sorry guys....thought we were talking about the RC Guys Decathlon....disregard my previous post!
Posted on: 10/12/2010 2:33 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10064207

RE: Pitts style
measure the port and bolt spacing, mufflers made for other engines will probably bolt right up
Posted on: 10/7/2010 3:47 PM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10054076

RE: Great planes ultimate 160
Wow, with the choice between the Moki 1.8 and the YS 1.6 I would go with the YS hands down, especially for IMAC style flying.
Posted on: 10/5/2010 11:22 AM by Author "arobatx" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10048885