RE: Giant u can do gas conversion ?????
I have seen them flown with these 3 choices and all 3 have worked out fine. 3W 28 ZDZ 40 DLE30 (this is the Minimum power I would put in one) Other good choices would be OS GT 33 OS GT 38 (That would be insane) Mintor 33 Mintor 38 DA 35
Posted on: 5/27/2012 4:14 AM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11095966

RE: Antique??
[quote]He,s on his honeymoon [/quote] I am not suggesting for one second that this applies to Ralph but I couldn't resist it [:D] An "advanced age" couple book a honeymoon suite in the "Viagra Falls" hotel to celebrate their 80th wedding anniversary. The bell boy, while taking their luggage to the suite, thinks to himself, "At this age, they are booking a suite. What a waste!" After leaving them in their room with a very heavy tip he decides to spy on them. At night, he sits in the lobby opposite their room. And what does he hear? Laughing and clapping sounds from their room. All night long. He could not believe his ears. In the morning, he apologized to the husband for having spied on them, but being very inquisitive, he asks him how can he do what he did at this age. The husband replied, "See it is this way. First, I remove my clothes. Then I lie down on the bed face up. Then my wife removes her clothes. Then..." The bell boy leans into the old man and says, "Then what, WHAT?" The old husband smiles and says, "Then my wife lifts up my p*n*s with one hand, and then we make a bet." The bell boy hollers, "A BET? What bet?!" If it falls to left, I win; and if it falls to right she wins," the husband replied with a smirk. The bell boy asks, "Well, what if it doesn't fall?" "Then we both win.", says the old man.
Posted on: 5/25/2012 7:25 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11094899

RE: RCAero JC Engines & YDA Engines
No worries Bill First up, the G23 will be very adequate power for that plane. The engine you have there is a JC 28 "Evo". B tthe first version of the "Evo". (The 793 carb is what tells me that - later ones had an 805 carb). Whilst they are running, they are as strong a running engine in the size range as has ever come out of China. Couple of "Gotchyas" on the engine. 1 - with the 793 carb. If it has an external pulse line between the crankcase and the carb, make sure the internal gallery between the carb and the carb mount is blocked otherwise it won't pump too well. JC Engines supplied a lot of these with the 793 carb that were very troublesome because of this (Many losses were made by the distribution chain downstream of Kevin Jiang because of them). 2 - It will prefer an 18/6 prop. 3 - Replace the diaphragms in the carb with some new ones. Many of the engines were sent from the factory with bad diaphragms in the carbs. Use a D10 carb kit and use either the tan colored (Teflon) or Blue colored (Acetal) pump diaphragm. 4 - Don't run it over rich. Tune it by leaning it to best performance as it will be near impossible to wind the needle to a rich position where the enigne revs will drop. Don't try to run it too lean on oil. No engine likes that. My personal choice is 40:1 of a good synthetic (Redline, CastrolTTS, Mobil1 2T, Stihl Ultra HP) or 30:1 of a good Mineral oil (Pennzoil air cooled is a good choice there - not sure what else is available in your area). Gap the plug (Genuine NGK CM6 of course) to 0.020" (Thickness of a Hobby knife blade). If you can get hold of an 805 walbro carb, bolt it on and the engine will transform to a much nicer engine that will prefer an 18/8 prop. When I refer to props, I used Xoar laminated props. I had a lot of fun with the JC 28's when I had them in my planes. I don't have any left in them now but they were a lot of fun whilst they lasted.
Posted on: 5/25/2012 7:10 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11094884

RE: MT70CC TWIN
If you leave the immense amount of QC issues out of the equation, The later MT 57's were one of the best engines ever to come out of China. (as were the MT 70 twins). As long as you don't run it too rich (they vibrate terribly if you do that), and you have the ignition set correctly (28 degrees BTDC) and use a decent oil ratio (A good synthetic at around 40:1 or a good mineral at around 30:1 mixed into Premium Pump Gas) and use a proper plug gapped to 0.6mm and make sure the crankcase is not ful of manufacturers "leftovers". They are a reasonable running engine. How long they wil stay that way is very dependent upon the QC involved in their manufacture - Some had crankcases crack, others had reed block related issues, others had crankcases full of dirt when new - Those issues were what let the brand down badly. Check it, tune it properly and enjoy it until it stops being enjoyable (then go buy a DA 50, a DA 60 a BME 58 or a 3W 55 to replace it[:D])
Posted on: 5/24/2012 10:03 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093943

RE: Why the near obsession with over powering airplanes?
I have some overpowered planes - and some "underpowered" ones and even some with the recommended power. Why? - because this is a hobby and because I can [:D] I totally agree with you on people tryng to squeeze way too much Gas engines into small glow planes. Al they are really achieving is a plane that will fly on the prop and not a lot else. However to put say a 50cc into a 30cc plane, there is not a huge amount of difference in weight so it is really more to do with the power. One of th eplanes I like to mess with is an older 86" Extra that was originally marketed as a 50cc plane. I have a 40cc in it and it needs to be flown like the real ones - on the wing. But I sure don't like 3d'ing it much. It's only a hobby - whatever turns one persons crank may not do much for the next person, as long as they fly safely and have decent field manners, who really cares? But then again, I am also selective on which oil I use and which brand props - everybody knows some brands of those are much better than others [:D]
Posted on: 5/24/2012 9:56 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093937

RE: RCAero JC Engines & YDA Engines
Hi Bill The 20cc and the 26cc sold by Henry were made by RCGF. The 20cc is actually 23cc and the 26cc was available in a few configurations, including a 28cc but stil made by RCGF. Most of those apart fro the very later ones had cast (and possibly tumble polished) crankcases. The 28cc sold by Henry was made by JC engines and was what was known as the JC 28 "Evo". I has "JC" on it either on a side plate on the cylinder or on the CNC Machined crankcase. Now for the confusing part. It would depend on which "26cc" you have. If it is the early one (look for slanted fins on top of the cylinder head, a screwed on side plate on the side of the cylinder and fairly thin cast lugs on the crankcase), the power is not much different to the 20cc. If it is a later 26cc (no slanted fins on the top of the cylinder and a centre plug) it is much beter power than the 20cc. My suggestion would be to use the 26cc of the two on that plane. The earlier 20cc's had a few running issues in the air caused by carb springs etc. A change of carb diaphragm return spring to a Walbro one (Sorry, I don't remember the actual part number but maybe others on here will know it) and a remote vent tube tend to overcome those running issues. I hope that helps. Steve
Posted on: 5/24/2012 6:38 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093753

RE: DA Question
It is normal. DA Dealers usually buy in bulk from DA where many engines are sent in one carton (properly wrapped and packed). A common way for them to be sent from the dealer is wrapped in bubble wrap in a normal shipping carton. However for peace of mind, Dans suggestion is a good one.
Posted on: 5/24/2012 4:02 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093572

RE: Ignition system trouble shooting
[quote]ORIGINAL: captinjohn Right...did you ever see lightning travel from earth upwards???  No the high voltage seeks the ground.    HA ~   and thats the rest of the story!  <img alt='''' src=''http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/wink_smile.gif'' /> [/quote] Does lightning strike from the sky down, or the ground up? The answer is both. Cloud-to-ground lightning comes from the sky down, but the part you see comes from the ground up. A typical cloud-to-ground flash lowers a path of negative electricity (that we cannot see) towards the ground in a series of spurts. Objects on the ground generally have a positive charge. Since opposites attract, an upward streamer is sent out from the object about to be struck. When these two paths meet, a return stroke zips back up to the sky. It is the return stroke that produces the visible flash, but it all happens so fast - in about one-millionth of a second - so the human eye doesn't see the actual formation of the stroke. From [link]http://www.nssl.noaa.gov/faq/faq_ltg.php[/link] Now where's the popcorn - It's all your fault John [:D]
Posted on: 5/24/2012 3:46 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093558

RE: What's a good comparison ARF to QQ 69
[link]http://www.extremeflightrc.com/html/70extra.html[/link] [;)]
Posted on: 5/24/2012 3:41 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11093553

RE: Removing Robart hinge points question
[quote]ORIGINAL: Radical Departure One thing tho.. be careful when drilling the hinge out, when done right it should slip right out toward you when you extract the brass 'bit'. If you push too hard drilling it out you'll end up dropping the hinge into the area, (rudder, alieron, whatever), and there won't be anyway to get it out unless you remove covering... the voice of experience.. [:)] [/quote] Isn't that what CA is for? - when ya drop a hinge in the wing, ya put in a bit of CA after it and shake it around to stick it in the wing so it doesn't rattle around any more. (Just make sure you drop one in the other side to maintain lateral balance) [:D]
Posted on: 5/16/2012 3:38 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11083490

RE: How much $
Based on the normal retail prices - around $10,000 when a 42%'er went in under power and nose first (It was the last time I trusted that particular brand of 2.4G technology in anything other than a foamy for the back yard) What was lost was airframe (Compy - $3900), 3W 170 Engine (~$4000 including exhausts), Futaba servos (~$1500)- all destroyed beyond economic or reliable repair. All other electronic items were scrapped (I do this when any airframe goes in enough to destroy the airframe from flying again) . It fitted neatly into the "sh!t happens" category
Posted on: 5/11/2012 5:55 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11077461

RE: Your list of hightest quality engines?
This also need to be considered with the oils and fuels used [:D] 1 - Stihl Ultra HP at 50:1 in Premium Pump Gas 2 - Mobil 1 2T Synthetic at 40:1 in Premium Pump Gas 3 - Redline at 40:1 in Premium Pump gas 4 - Pennzoil air cooled at 32:1 5 - 1000 - Most of the others. 2000+ - Amsoil at 100:1 All guided by Futaba in ARF "Kits" [:D] (ok - I'm ducking for cover now)
Posted on: 5/7/2012 3:21 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11072069

RE: Your list of hightest quality engines?
Based on Experience It's a shame that 2 of the top 3 are pretty hard to come by now. =1 - Zenoah. =1 - Taurus =1 - North American Made Brison 4 - BME =5 - 3W =5 - DA 7 - Nothing 8 - Nothing 9 - Nothing 10 - Rotomoto 12 - ZDZ 13 - Nothing 14- Nothing. . . . 25 - DLE 26 - GP (88 and 176 - if they had been on the market longer and remain proven, they would be much higher) 27 - Nothing . . . . . . =75 - DLA =75 - PTE 77 - Nothing . . . . . . . 100 - MVVS (Based on very recent experience) 101 - Nothing 102 - Nothing . . . . . . 1000 - anything else from China.
Posted on: 5/7/2012 3:13 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11072060

RE: Aileron Servos vibrating
[quote] they are 7955TG's and I have probably 35 or 40 flights on it. Tom [/quote] That is the crux of the problem. I am not sure about this forum but on a couple of other forums there are long threads about exactly this problem. My recommendation would be to contact HiTec and discuss it with them. Great servos while they are working but the pots wear out pretty quickly on the higher voltages due to a hardware related issue. there was a "fix" published on another forum that was pretty simple but I don't remember the exact details of the top of my head.
Posted on: 5/6/2012 9:06 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11071022

RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?
[quote] I always run my gas engines dry at the end of the day. I always start them with an electric starter the first start of the day. [/quote] That is not necessarily the best practice for any engine. By running it dry, you are also running it dry of lubricant. By using a starter, you are running it up with no lubricant. That all equates to increased engine wear. Unlike Methanol engines, Gas doesn't adsorb water. the lubricant left in the engine by running them dry, also acts as a corrosion protection. Carb diaphragms also last longer if the carb is left "wet". Chances are that if you didn't run dry at the end of the day, you wouldn't need the starter for the next flying session. Just my $.02 on that
Posted on: 5/6/2012 3:25 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11070631

RE: Tech-Aero IBEC
[quote]ORIGINAL: closetguy never tried using a IBEC due to the fact that it's just another electric part that could go bad and guessing if it is working rite,i realy don't know that much about them.what i have been using is one 2300 a123 with a diode from WrongWay rc to run both the ignition and rx that has work real well for the price of 8.00 bucks.what is the advantage to use a IBEC? [/quote] You are pretty much right in the fact that it is another electronic device to have problems with. the ONLY places I use IBECS are in smaller planes (28cc gassers and smaller). In anything larger, I don't bother trying to save the very small weight of an additional ignition battery. (you can save more weight than that by reducing the "Bling" fitted for aesthetics). In my IMAC planes, it is "almost" mandatory here to use RX operated ignition kills (It is not actually written but most organisers consider it to be the rules so it is easier to just go with the flow). As those planes are all larger than the ones I use IBECS on, They use a simple optikcal kill device connected to the seperate ignition battery/s (also of only one particular brand). If the need for an Rx kill is considered necessary (that need may be for personal peace of mind) then one should also be using 2 RX power packs. etc. But then again, I consider planes much smaller than that to be glow territory anyway as I never had a problem running that technology - no need for any of the baove on those [:D] (Wait for it - I am sure it wil come [8D])
Posted on: 5/6/2012 3:18 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11070628

RE: Tech-Aero IBEC
It is the Only IBEC device I use. I have tried a few other brands and the Tech Aero is the best IMHO. (Some of the others are downright terrible and shouldn't be allowed to be sold due to their overall crapp!ness)
Posted on: 5/5/2012 2:51 AM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11069112

RE: Looking for new engines
Word of advice on whatever you choose. If a seller seems desperate to sell you an enigne by either offiering a very cheap price or by flooding the forums with information on their product, (especially if you weren't posting about their product), Stay away from them and go buy something where the seller doesn't feel the need to do such things. [;)] You will be putting a lot of effort into this plane (whether you make it "very" scale or not) and the last thing you want is an engine flaming out at the wrong time. From the searching I have done on it, I would say the Zenoahs (G26 or G38 perhaps if you really want to overpower it?) would be a good choice. Maybe speak to Antique (Ralph Cunningham) as he provides a very good version of them at a very reasonable price.
Posted on: 5/5/2012 2:40 AM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11069106

RE: Looking for new engines
Is the Biela 18/10 mentioned in the original post a 3 blade? If so, it is a similar static load on the engine as a 21/10 2 blade of most other brands. I run a couple of the Evolution 40's (mine are branded as MVVS) and even for those it is a fair load but it is the best choice of the engines mentioned so far if you really want to get around the 6000 rpm, mark on that prop. Is a smaller prop a possibility? as it opens up the engine choices a bit more. As you are wanting "Scale" , I make the assumption that you have put a little time into the model. As it is a twin, I would recommend a lot of caution as to what brands of engine you use. A couple of the choices mentioned don't have a very good reputation for reliability (other than amongst the dealers of the brands or their close friends). If people are running them with good success on G26's, I would be inclined to go that way as there are few engines around that will compare to those in reliability but they won't pull the load you are chasing either.
Posted on: 5/4/2012 4:59 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11068709

RE: loosing signal
What is your exact switch on sequence? Are the Rx lights flashing or steady when switched on and booted up? Do you rest your Tx flat on the ground once switched on? What is your exact bind method?
Posted on: 5/3/2012 6:32 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11067537

RE: 3D Plane for DLE 20?
[quote]ORIGINAL: ThumbSkull I would recommend building a Swanyshouse MoJo 65 [/quote] +1 on that recommendation.
Posted on: 5/3/2012 3:29 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11067289

RE: Who is using SBUS?
When I assembled my 50% Yak, I did a cost comparison. This plane uses 4 x Elevator servos, 6 x Aileron servos, 4 x Rudder servos, 1 x throttle servo, 1 x choke servo, 2 x optokills (twinspark engine) and 2 x receivers. I only mention the optokills and dual receivers as they are mandatory on models over 25kg here. I don't have the exact figures in front of me but the entire setup cost me around $3200 for the electronics (plus the batteries). The S-Bus sytem actually saved me just over $200 when compared to the other option which was a Smartfly powerboard and regulator with the multiple extensions and (whatever your favorite brand of) high torque servos is. I am running 9075's in this plane so alternative servos would be 9157's 79xx's or whatever the JR equivalent number is (I don't remember it off the top of my head). I have planes set up with both systems and both work fine. The savings on the S-Bus were largely to do with savings on the cost of the servos (for the power actually provided - get any of your favorite servos, place a weight at 1cm or 1" frmo the centre of the servo shaft and see just how much they do actually pull - you may be shocked to find how low it is in some). The lower cost of the receivers (S-Bus receivers are pretty much only using a few channels), the in built regulation and the reduced cost of servo extensions etc (you don't want to use crappy extensions in a plane like this). Would there be a saving on a 50cc or 100cc sport flyer? I doubt the difference would be much but on the "target audience" planes, there are certainly savings. As has been mentioned above in different ways, S-bus is not required on all planes but for precision and simplicity in more complex airframes, it is a good way to go. Now if only I could get "S-Bus" on my thumbs, I would be doing ok.
Posted on: 5/3/2012 3:14 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11067263

RE: Who is using SBUS?
[quote]ORIGINAL: TimBle How often have you had a properly engaged plug connection disengage? [/quote] A couple of times - about the same time the plane "disassembled itself" when boring a hole into the ground under power. [quote] Do you have redundancy in a conventional Rx to servo set up? [/quote] Yes - I can cause a crash with either my hands or my brain farts. [:D]
Posted on: 5/3/2012 3:55 AM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11066525

RE: Who is using SBUS?
[quote]ORIGINAL: wind junkie From a redundancy standpoint, I don't understand why it's desireable to minimize the number of wires going from the RX to the servos in your giant scale airplane. Yes, the SBUS system seems clever and creative, but I didn't think GS was the ideal scope for its usage. [/quote] SBUS is a complete system. On a complex model, such as many turbine models and the larger Giant scale models, where there are many servos in the tail. the mess of wires heading to the back become messy. The single (properly sized) cable makes for a neater (and usually better secured because of it) install. But that is not actually the main point behind SBUS, it is just a beneficial factor. What the SBUS system provides is Servo programmability Simplicity (you can plug any servo into any wire and it will act according to the right signal for that servo). For example. On my larger planes (50% and 60% sized), I need to feed between 8 and 12 tail servos. I can plug any one into any connector and they reposnd properly. Servo Accuracy - I am not any sort of electronics guru so my explanation here may be a little basic but - The elecronic "signalling, receiving" and procesing used in the system gives an amazingly good servo response, repeatability and accuracy. Even I can feel the difference on it despite my old shaky hands. (When compared to the previous systems used by me which were other digital servos through powerboards with the only connectors in the lines being where the leads connected to the powerboards). The repeatability of the servo functions is also pretty amazing. Servo power - the SBus servos are certainly powerful. System efficiency. My batteries lose less charge in a day of flying my SBus planes than they do in a day of flying my similar non SBUS planes. I have yet to fully quantify it but I know there is about 85% of the "MaH" used to put into the planes now after a day of flying. Could all these and other features be incorporated into "non SBUS" style systems? Probably they could but the fact is that Futaba have built them into SBUS. This is pretty much the same as when 2.4G came out. The features that we were all sold on could have also been built into a PCM style system (and in fact Multiplex did so with one of their systems) but the manufacturers didn't do that, they built the features into the 2.4G and look where that is now. Would I use it on say a 26cc sport plane? - probably not. Would I use it on a top end F3a plane? - Yes definitley as the weight savings and the quality of the servos make it worth while (Using the 4.1 hub etc).
Posted on: 5/3/2012 3:52 AM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11066520

RE: RCAero JC Engines & YDA Engines
If you want to increase the power a lot, change the carb to an HDA 245 (same carb as was used on the MT 57 and some others). [;)]
Posted on: 5/2/2012 4:16 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11065943

RE: RCAero JC Engines & YDA Engines
A couple of years ago, I was at my local carb parts supplier (aka the local saw shop) and was seeking an overhaul kit for a WJ71 carb. The "helpful assistant" wouldn't even attempt to look up anythign because I wouldn't tell him what brand saw it was on. I did exactly as you suggested. I took in a whole plane (a 106" Extra) put the wings on it in the carpark and took the whole plane inside the store. I even offered to start it up so they could see why I wanted the parts. They soon got the message that I did knopw what parts I wanted - which they had on the shelf (I only wanted an overhaul kit for the carb). that particular assitant has gone frmo that store now due to a high level of customer complaints but whenever I go in there, they sure do still remember me LOL
Posted on: 5/2/2012 4:12 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11065937

RE: RCAero JC Engines & YDA Engines
The engine you have there is one of the ones that got supplied through the JC engines chain. It will be a WT 645 Carb. Diaphragm kit is a K10 WAT (Or a D10 - one has more "bits" than the other). If you remove the carb make sure you don't overtighten the mounting bolts when replacing it as it will distort the rubber reed retainer if you do so. A drop of blue loctite on the bolts and gently tighten them is more than enough. When replacing the diaphragm, use the Tan colored one (Teflon) which is also what should be on it from new Also make sure the choke is closing properly.
Posted on: 5/2/2012 4:08 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11065932

RE: 80cc motor needs a home
Thanks for this thread. I too have a spare European made 80cc laying around unuused and have been wondering what to put it into. sub'd
Posted on: 4/30/2012 4:09 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11063132

RE: EME new engines, 35,60 & 120 twin
[quote]ORIGINAL: AJsToyz Steve, You are a natural at being on or off topic! [/quote] My fathers side of the family originates from Ireland, My Mothers side from Scotland. I am fairly sure that the ability to stir the pot and enjoy a good fight is genetic. [:D]
Posted on: 4/30/2012 3:53 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11063109

RE: Removing Robart hinge points question
Which sized hinge points did you use? There are a few different sizes so you may not need to fill the holes. [link]http://www.robart.com/store/control-hinges[/link]
Posted on: 4/30/2012 3:41 PM by Author "aussiesteve" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11063091