RE: Silk Covering Techniques
how come no one replying to this important question for tissue material etc? one example : Mick Reeves company have epoxy paynt, i know the epoxy glue is fuel resistent, if try i to thin epoxy clear paynt like dope? and then the final hand with color etc.... i think this paynt need a test? or i'm dreaming impossible things ? regards!
Posted on: 9/13/2012 12:41 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11227467

RE: ww1 covering material grain
Hi! the model is hangar 9 sopwith camel, i have to change the covering material
Posted on: 9/11/2012 9:38 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225096

ww1 covering material grain
Hallo sorry my english limited looking this picture ...what's the appropriate tissue grain of the material for r/c ww1 models?
Posted on: 9/10/2012 1:34 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11224062

RE: Silk Covering Techniques
Hello sorry limited english have never tryed to paint a model after dope, with 2 component paynt? (catalyst+ paynt) i know there is acrylic and poliurethane paynt, i want to paynt a ww1 model, but i do not whant use clear fuelprof, i like a paynt 100% fuelresistent
Posted on: 9/1/2012 6:32 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11213428

RE: Silk Covering Techniques
Hi! sorry my limited english after dope dry, can i use paint for car 2 component...paint+catalized i know this paint do not need clear fuelprof.. thank you [quote]ORIGINAL: pd1 Here's a couple of things I've found out about silk and dope. Nitrate can't be applied over butyrate. It will react and ruin your finish. Nitrate is very flammable compared to butyrate. Nitrate has a little better adhesive qualities compared to butyrate. Nitrate requires additional fuel proofing. Nitrate stops shrinking after a couple of days. Butyrate shrinks for a long, long time. Covering. I don't use nitrate anymore, personal preference, so to increase the adhesiveness of the butyrate I coat the bare structure with butyrate until the wood picks up a shine. Then apply my silk. Spray the silk with water and get the wrinkles out. I use a lot of thinner with just a little dope to stick the silk. The thinner passes through the silk and softens the dope underneath sticking the silk down. If you accidentally get some of the thinned dope on the silk, there is not enough dope to curl the silk. Thick dope will curl the silk as it drys. Using dope while the silk is still wet will cause the dope to blush. It will actually turn white. Let all the water dry off the silk before doping too much. If it is a day with high humidity, the dope may blush again. A couple of drops of retarder will stop that. Sig sells retarder in small bottles. If you hold a wing horizontal while doping, especially with dope that hasn't been thinned a lot, the dope will drip through and make an ugly ''ring'' on the other side of the wing. To avoid that when doing wing panels, just use very thin dope and hold the surface vertical. The thinned dope will not leave a ring, and if the panel is vertical the dope will stay on the side you are doping. On the last couple of coats of clear I add a couple of drops of Castor oil to the clear dope. It will act as a plasticizer and will slow dope from drying out over a long time. Silk. I've found that there are at least two different silks that shrink different from each other. The silk from Thai silk seems to be pre shrunk and doesn't shrink much if at all after covering. This is good for delicate structures. http://www.thaisilks.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_2&products_id=11&osCsid=786f3badfb9b36eb1422fba3399425a4 The silk I like from there is the 5mm 021F-000 Habotai. If you want silk that shrinks more, the silk from Dharma Trading is for you. It's great for stronger structures. http://www.dharmatrading.com/html/eng/3374-AA.shtml I use the 5mm. HS536 or the HS545 same but 45 inches wide. I've found the 5mm silk is lighter than any other covering, including tissue and the weave is so tight that it doesn't take much clear to fill. Before you ask,mm is not milimeters. ''MM is Momme. Momme (pronounced ''mommy'' and abbreviated ''mm'') expresses the weight in pounds of a piece of material of size 45 inches by 100 yards. So, for example, a 50 yd. bolt of our 5mm 45'' Habotai Silk fabric (#HS545) would weigh 2.5 lbs. (plus the weight of the cardboard tube it is wrapped around, of course). The higher the momme, the heavier and stronger the fabric. Anything above 28 momme is considered heavy-weight and generally used for curtains or heavier outer-garments. Silk under 20 momme is considered lightweight, and generally used for light blouses with a chiffon feel. Medium-weight silk (20 to 28 momme) is excellent for silk scarves, furnishings, wedding dresses and the ultimate luxury of silk sheets.'' Dharma Trading. 5 mm silk is extremely light. A sheet 45 inches wide by 300 feet long would only weigh 5 pounds. Drying out and rot. Unless you leave the silk in direct sunlight, the silk won't rot. What actually happens over time the dope becomes hard and brittle. The silk is saturated with the dope and when the dope cracks, so does the silk. I just started removing silk that was applied 40 years ago. The silk is fine, the dope isn't. Silk has a ''grain'' to it. It usually has a finished edge on one side of the piece. The grain is parallel to that edge. Run the grain spanwise on a wing across the ribs. If you run the grain chordwise, with the ribs, the silk will pull down between the ribs and look odd. Silk shrinks more with the grain than across it. If you thin dope sufficiently, and use a good brush, it will not leave brushmarks. I use a camels hair brush, most hobby shops carry them. [/quote]
Posted on: 4/15/2012 1:48 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11043061

RE: Dharma Trading's 5mm Habotai silk
Hi Is this material light for old time and small models? regards!
Posted on: 4/13/2012 4:04 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "User Product Reviews"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11040728

RE: Need help with some Cub details please
[quote]ORIGINAL: EF Yes, for bonding the Skyloft, but once bonded you apply to the whole area for sealing it. [/quote] please just a clear plane pictures
Posted on: 2/18/2012 6:19 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10964315

RE: Need help with some Cub details please
please just last question ..., do you put the dope only the area in contact with balsa? regards!
Posted on: 2/17/2012 12:58 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10963457

RE: Fabric Covering
[quote]ORIGINAL: Supermod56 Thanks for the replies guys, Solartex it is!!![:D] Tom [/quote] [&o] i do not understand some peoples![:)], so don't you like vintage style?
Posted on: 2/16/2012 12:25 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10961875

RE: Need help with some Cub details please
[quote]ORIGINAL: EF I'm looking for some close up photos of the opening in the Cub's cockpit roof (circled in the photo). I want to add some detail and have no info on the way it is on the real one (BTW it's a 1/4 scale Clipped Wing version). Thanks to anyone who can help. I'm attempting to incorporate as much detail as practicle, have already began rib stitching and tapes. [/quote] Hi rorry limited english, i'm just a ww1 builder, looking that video at minuts 1:50 ,i understand that this is a material for me [:D],but not just for me......., for all ww1 models ! Please when apply this material, you before wet it and then apply to the balsa? or you wet when it is on the wings or fuselage? [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGOjFsohbbQ[/youtube]
Posted on: 2/15/2012 2:18 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10960557

RE: Fabric Covering
[quote]ORIGINAL: Supermod56 I just bought a 1/3 JW Sopwith Pup, what do you guys think I should use for fabric? Stits, Koverall, Solartex? Thanks Tom [/quote] HI sorry limited english very please ...,look well this video at minuts 1:50 ...., my next project will be paint a ww1 model just with brush and paynt well mixed ,not very dense. at tower hobbies i bought ,the Dave Brown skyloft cover material very light and resistent (you can use other if you know, the important is resistent and light)..., and then buy a good brush and the best paynt fuel resistent.... ,but without add other clear paynt ,so the first paint you will apply ,must be fuel resistent , that will be the best ww1! [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGOjFsohbbQ[/youtube]
Posted on: 2/15/2012 12:34 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10960387

matt polyester covering material by solarfilm manyfacturer
Hello are there anybody that used matt polyester from uk? if yes have any pictures
Posted on: 5/10/2011 3:25 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10512553

RE: Free sim R/C Desk Pilot
Hi are there ww1 models to download for desk pilot?
Posted on: 4/24/2011 11:25 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10482182

RE: fms planes
[quote]ORIGINAL: maverick64857 TRY this WEB SITE TWANG: <a href=''http://rcp.web.infoseek.co.jp/fms_aircraft_e.html''>http://rcp.web.infoseek.co.jp/fms_aircraft_e.html [/quote] Hi do you know one other link for ww1 models?
Posted on: 4/24/2011 7:53 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10481872

RE: free sims
Hi everibody ,ww1 planes to download for desk pilot??
Posted on: 4/24/2011 7:44 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Flight Simulator Software"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10481855

RE: WWI propeller resources
Hi abufletcher sorry my english limited i can't find laminated wood propeller from flair manufacturer is it out of stock ,look picture [quote]ORIGINAL: abufletcher It was a surprise to me how the geometry of the propeller blades produced completely different patterns in the laminations on the front vs. the reverse. The pattern on the back of the blade reflects that fact that this side is essentially flat with an essentially equal angle through all the laminations. The pattern on the front reveals how the blade has an airfoil curved surface which is much flatter towards the tips and very steep (and thick) towards the hub. This prop would have been designed to spin at about 1400 rpm. It's quite thick compared to the props we use on our RC models something on the order of a 18 inch prop with a pitch of 15-16. I'll add also that carving the prop is not at all hard. Once you get your head around the ways things curve (e.g. which is the leading edge and which the trailing edge) the actual carving follows very natural lines. Whittling and sanding the wood seemed like the most natural and intuitive thing in the world. Actually the different colored laminations actually help in this regard since the pattern revealed during sanding can serve as a guide. The lines should curve smoothly. I didn't really have any idea what the reverse would look like but I noticed that once I had sanded the surface flat I got more or less equal bands. Rough sanding was easily accomplished with an aluminum sanding bar followed by some 80 grit sandpaper wrapped around a 1'' dowel section. I was also surprised by how easily the ''hardwood'' sands. The 80 grit paper cut right through it. In fact, I didn't use anything but sanding to shape the front of the blades. Besides, it was also fun to see sawdust in another color besides ''balsa!'' [:D] [/quote]
Posted on: 3/30/2011 6:01 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10431942

RE: 1/6 SCALE SOPWITH PUP
[quote]ORIGINAL: jw637362 Today, I purchased this kit. I was excited to see a build thread. Why did it stop. I know its an old one but still. Wheres the end of the story!!!! [/quote] Hi when you'll start your building thread?
Posted on: 1/31/2011 10:58 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10302577

RE: 1/6 SCALE SOPWITH PUP
[quote]ORIGINAL: jw637362 Today, I purchased this kit. I was excited to see a build thread. Why did it stop. I know its an old one but still. Wheres the end of the story!!!! [/quote] Hi sorry my english limited i built this model ! just some reinforcement to the fuselage !,i have not a build thread, but i will be happy show you pictures and the point where you have to do the reinforce regards!
Posted on: 1/30/2011 5:16 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10299540

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build
[quote]ORIGINAL: abufletcher Now that I have a plan for the panels, I'm starting to think about those ''riffeln'' again. I accept that there's just no way at this scale to replicated them physically, but I still have the option of trying to create an impression of them somehow. One approach is with a marker pen. I've tested this and it works from a distance, similarly to the fuselage nails which did with a permanent marker. Up close the effect to too strong (like stage make-up) but from a foot or further away, the impression is good. Probably a better result would be to paint lines on with a slightly darker tone of ''steel.'' But I don't have a clue how I'd manage that. [/quote] HI Abufletcher sorry my english after i looking this C1 radiator picture, i put near computer the electric stove because i was cold........look picture ....the same, i think if electric shop has this part it is good for se5a radiator too[sm=wink_smile.gif]
Posted on: 12/10/2010 6:20 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10188050

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build
[quote]ORIGINAL: abufletcher Drilled out, then filed to a tight fit. Yes, it's slow, but at least I'm making progress. The CI has a lot of ''right-in-your-face'' detail, for example, the turret, the dummy, and yes the radiators. They sort of set the tone for the whole model so it's worth giving it your best effort. And you know, in some bizarre way, I'd rather cut these all out by hand, than spend the time to model them all in CAD and then have them photo-etched. On the other hand, if you were just to hand me a ready-made sheet of photo-etched flanges, I'd be thrilled! [/quote] HI Abufletcher i like very much your building procedure ,please the paynt you used in general is monocomponent or there is an hardener appart ? and is it applyed with brush ? or compressor ? what's paynt base........... sintetic ?,acrilyc ?,polyuretanic?? .......sorry english ?
Posted on: 11/25/2010 9:12 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10158645

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build
[quote]ORIGINAL: GianFrancesco Ciao Avionette puoi contattarmi amche all'indirizzo privato. Mi fa piacere se posso essere utile. [/quote] OK TI RINGRAZIO (THANK YOU)
Posted on: 11/24/2010 12:45 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10156769

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build
[quote]ORIGINAL: abufletcher [quote]ORIGINAL: avionette sorry my english limited [/quote] Anything you can't say in English, go ahead and post in Italian! Since I speak Spanish and GianFrancesco speaks Italian I'm sure we'll understand your idea. [/quote] ok thank you for support and advice ciao!
Posted on: 11/24/2010 7:10 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10156130

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build
[quote]ORIGINAL: abufletcher Trying to drill holes in sets of 16 flange sheets at a time (so that all the holes like up when mounted). When I stop breaking drill bits, I'll post some progress. [/quote] Hello sorry my english limited when you laminate parts do you use alipahatic glue mixed with water? regards
Posted on: 11/24/2010 6:59 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10156126

RE: Balsa USA 1/4 scale DR-1 power recommendations
Hi I agree with you too ,,i have for my next project Flair fokker dr1 alluminium cowl engine ,good balsa and plywood ,so kit of quality ,and for engine i bought os 120 ax because i want have semplicity ,i don't want use nitro to the fuel for 4t ,i wil not use additional battery pack etc, so i like very light model
Posted on: 11/23/2010 8:17 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10153896

RE: Balsa USA 1/4 scale DR-1 power recommendations
[quote]ORIGINAL: bps I built one a couple of years ago. Nice flyer and I still have it today. I would suggest  you bolt on the horizontal stab or increase its incidence a couple of degrees or you will fly with a lot of down elevator trim. As for the motor I have a G26 Zenoah with standard magneto ignition. Mine is Solartex painted with latex and top coated with polyurethane. Did not have to add any weight to balance. This plane will build tail heavy if your not careful. My point here is that the heavier G26 serves well without having to add any nose weight. [/quote] sorry my english! Yes i agree with you, G26 is ok for this scale !!....more power is good for sport model; here a video flair fokker dr1 1/4 scale with g26 [youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJG3j4x8cWs[/youtube]
Posted on: 11/23/2010 6:52 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10153818

RE: CD ScaleDesigns Albatros CI build
[quote]ORIGINAL: abufletcher The next step in the  wing ''pre-construction'' is to do all the ply/balsa laminated parts, including the TE's and some of the ribs.  This method of pinning the parts then slipping the top part up on the pin is the best way to ensure that parts stay properly aligned.  I paint the Titebond glue on with a brush and then slide the part back down. After a few minutes for the glue to set a bit, I remove the pins and put weight on the parts until they dry to prevent warping.  I didn't do this on the Snipe parts and was unpleasantly suprised when I came back a few hours later. Note:  It would be very easy to goof up and glue the ply to the wrong side so it's wise to lay the parts out on the plan first. [/quote] Hi Abufletcher! sorry my english limited the glue taht using to laminated is aliphatic glue? if yes is it mixed with water? to stand better the glue? regards
Posted on: 11/22/2010 5:00 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10152487

blueprint
Hello sorry my english limited i looking for blueprint of sopwith pup ad camel ,where can i buy as the dimension i posted to the picture ?
Posted on: 11/21/2010 9:02 AM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10149131

hangar 9 sopwith camel +gms engine???
Hello is there someone that built the h9 s.camel using a gms engine 61 or 76?
Posted on: 4/27/2009 1:18 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8719452

RE: rds 8000 2.4ghz diode bypass
[quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield There is no need to discharge the battery except for occasional inspection. [/quote] for example i go to fly with radio 10,7 volt i finish go home with radio voltage 10 when i will go to fly again have i to charge again 14 hours?
Posted on: 4/20/2009 6:15 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8699568

RE: rds 8000 2.4ghz diode bypass
[quote]ORIGINAL: gaRCfield Just wondering why you would want to discharge the battery often enough to worry about damaging plugs...? [/quote] sorry my english i will explain all my procedure; when i finish to fly i discharge the battery and when are at low voltage with my simple discharger i charge 14 hours and i go to fly is it ok this procedure or can i charge just if i make 2 fly with my model ? regards
Posted on: 4/20/2009 5:32 PM by Author "avionette" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8699443