Longest range stock 72mhz receiver??
I recently built a nice FPV glider. I'm using a BERG 72mhz receiver but I'm only able to get to 0.4 miles before I get glitching. I'm using a stock Futaba 9CAPS radio as my transmitter. What type of Futaba receiver would get me longer range? I have a pile of R168DF receivers kicking around. Do you think they'd get better range than a BERG? I'd like to have the option to go 1 mile. I've heard PCM can get 10% more distance, but then it locks you out when it reaches that distance. I'd rather have it glitch and then let me know I'm approaching a boundary where I need to turn around in a hurry. Thanks David
Posted on: 7/2/2012 1:44 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "FPV, UAV''s & Drones"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11140216

RE: Mini plane motor issue, help????
I think it is the ESC. I have a hobbyking micro 12amp ESC that I think I'll wire in and try instead. This is kind of silly that it is this difficult to get this going. Lol!
Posted on: 1/10/2012 10:22 AM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10901865

Mini plane motor issue, help????
I bought a TechOne Mini Piaget. I bought the techone motor and speed controller to go with it (they have a kit that includes servos). Anyways, this motor just doesn't function as you can see from this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLMcP6msbdw I've tried the following: - Using a 72mhz rx and tx, but it just beeps saying it doesn't find a signal - using a different FASST rx, same problem - Changing the timing of the motor though all of the ESC values - Tried using 3 batteries, two that were 2 cell and one that is 3 cell I TALKED TO TOWER AND THEY SENT ME A NEW MOTOR AND ESC AND IT DOES THE SAME THING. So I have TWO of these that do EXACTLY the same motor problem and the damn thing just won't turn properly!! Please help if you have ideas or know why this techone stuff is such JUNK Thanks David
Posted on: 1/7/2012 5:10 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10896939

Avoid TroyBuiltModels.com
Troybuiltmodels.com has lost my business forever. I placed an order with their "black friday" deals (the page has conveniently disappeared). Anyways, when I got the final subtotal for the order that I had placed, I noticed that it was less than what they were advertising. So the 95 dollar JR receivers were like 70 bucks. I was like, "WOW! They double discounted me!" since they placed on the order form THEY LIST AN ADDITIONAL DISCOUNT. Anyways I got his call from a guy named Ewardo who says that "Ops they made a mistake", shipping is more and they won't honor the price that their checkout software said I would pay. He demands "You take this new price or I will cancel the order" several times while I'm trying to figure out what he was talking about. This irritates me to the point where I won't do business with them anymore. He says the double discounted price "its below cost", so I'm like, ok what is your cost? "Oh I can't tell you that". Good grief, if they can afford to sell a receiver for 95 bucks (retail is 189), but not at 70, then what are these people's markup?? I'm a computer consultant and when I screw up, I eat the cost. I've done this only a few times, BECAUSE IT MAKES ME CAREFUL NOT TO SCREW UP. But my customers respect me for that. It shows that *I* respect them in return. It builds a GOOD relationship. I've been working for the same 3 companies for over 10 years now because of this relationship. I will continue doing business with Tower Hobbies and Horizon. Both stand behind their products and their pricing. I have been doing business with them for years. This shows me that in the future, I should stick to the good guys, not these hacks like TBM. If a company lists additional discounts, they should honor those discounts. Not rudely demand that you either pay up or cancel. In this economy, or at any time, if you want my future business and you want my money, then you need to treat me with RESPECT. They won't dupe me again. I recommend against Troy in your future purchases. David
Posted on: 11/30/2009 3:18 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9292467

RE: Powerbox Battery cell issues
The batteries themselves have a charger built into them, as well as a regulator. They are pretty nifty in that regard. There is a charger extension that you plug into the batteries from the wall and the batteries have a light that goes from orange to green when they are done charging. They have not offered to replace the cells, they simply tell me that its ok to fly with cells that swollen. Lol. I refuse to do that. "Hello David, the swollen cells come not from the cells alone, normal the cells are thick when the voltage goes down in the cells under 2,6 volts and always when you charge it the cell will get a little thicker. And the cells are not died in this moment, only the capacity goes charging for charging a little down, but never you can crash your plane with swollen cells, only the flight time are always a little shorter, and a explosion you can not have with our cells, because they can swollen until they are complete round.. kind regards / mit Emmerich Deutsch"
Posted on: 10/5/2009 4:30 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9148898

RE: Powerbox Battery cell issues
Actually I just got an email back from someone from their company. I'll post it here. I guess they WERE made in Germany, now they are made in China. I just live up to the expectation that when someone states something and uses it as a marketing tool, that it be true. If you own their batteries, look through the manual and you'll see in several cases they state over and over again that the cells are made in Germany by the only german manufacturer of Lipos. It is very clear. Anyways, the email I got: "Hello David, why shall I write you the interna story of the cells? IONITY was a German manufacturer of the first cells what we have had, this cells were designed special for PowerBox Systems and were produced from May 2003 to end of 2006 in Germany special for us. Then the company IONITY was buy from Samsung, to produce only their own cells, but the production in Germany was Samsung too expensive, they want only the very high level production , and so they take the complete production line to China, the company hall in Germany, near Dresden, is complete empty, all machineries are transported to China, but we have a contract for always 2 years with IONITY, and when Samsung buy this company, they buy also all contracts, so we can get our special size of cells, produced with the same machinery as in Germany from Samsung, but the cells they named eufine ( European fine cells ), this is all, so you have the same cells as from the German manufactory, and the same expensive price, because they produce it only for us. kind regards / mit freundlichen Grüßen Emmerich Deutsch"
Posted on: 10/5/2009 2:27 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9148565

Powerbox Battery cell issues
Powerbox systems appears to have a case of false advertising going on. They tell you in their manual for their batteries: "These batteries are a guaranteed product - “Made in Germany�! IONITY cells are certified and accredited according to ISO 9000 and UNDOT, and all bear UL certifi-cation." However, I had a 2800 mah battery swell up on me, so I decided to open the case to see what type of cells it had since it was off of their 1 year warranty. What I found surprised me; I found eufine chinese cells in it. When I contacted the company and asked for a replacement, over a month later, still no word. Anyways, the pictures are attached and pictures don't lie. I'm going to avoid powerbox systems in the future because they charge you extra to have "Made in Germany" cells, but you are actually getting chinese stuff that swells up. Imagine if I flew the plane with cells this swollen and had it rupture???? My 8000 dollar 46% Ultimate would have burned up with it. Yours could too. David
Posted on: 10/5/2009 2:24 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9148223

Post deleted
I don't see how to delete this post, so I'm just changing it. Admin can you give us a way to delete posts that are easier to notice???
Posted on: 10/5/2009 2:19 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9148210

RE: Great Planes Super Sportster EP with Modified Power System
One more question... How do you slow this plane down? Has anyone tried chopping in a new servo in the wing to have dual aileron servos so that you can do flaperons? I would think that you could get rid of the Futaba S3101 servo and instead chop in two Futaba S3110 micro servos side by side in the same spot. I really like those S3110 micros, they have a ton of torque for their size. I almost put this SS into a fence because I wasn't used to how well it glides. I'm used to my wattage Pitts which doesn't glide at all. So i need a way to slow it down because my field is relatively small.
Posted on: 7/26/2006 10:10 AM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4546687

RE: Great Planes Super Sportster EP with Modified Power System
with a 2 cell lipo, the stock motor would fly just fine. Since it is 8.4 volts, it won't cook the motor. So here is a little variation. I took my SS up a couple weekends ago and it is currently running the modified power system that this thread originally started with. The plane had the 3:1 gearing and was running a 10x7 electric prop from Master Airscrew. Fine so far. Used a stock battery with the plane. I took the plane up and it flew like crap. Had no speed. When I went to pull a loop, it went about 40 degrees in the air and stalled out. And it was just SO SLOW. It would stall while turning, etc. I haven't flow this plane since last October and have been flying many others with brushless outrunners and compared to those planes, this one sucks. Anyways, so what I'm thinking is this: How does the modified power system fly with the original 12x10 prop? That would give me the speed I need plus the 12 inch prop should give me enough power to do better verticals. Has anyone tried it? How many amps does it draw? I'm finishing up some summer classes, but want to try this myself one day soon. -David
Posted on: 7/26/2006 10:05 AM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4546672

RE: U-Can-Do EP Folding up midair
I haven't tried any CF yet. That is my next step. I haven't figured out how I'm going to use it on the plane itself, you see, I don't think it would work if you glue it to the outside of the plane. I thought about cutting open the bottom of the plane and gluing some CF to the main support that runs the length of the fuse. But I haven't done that yet. Think there is any way to counteract the torque of this motor? Maybe more right thrust on the motor, etc? David
Posted on: 6/27/2006 8:57 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4438629

RE: Can't figure Out???
I have experienced this many times myself. I have used many geared motors and normally when it starts making weird kinds of noises in mid air, it is because you chipped a gear. My himax 2025-5300 motors are famous for this. For whatever reason when I'm flying my U-Can-Do EP, sometimes I'll pull a tight loop or something and it will chip a tooth on the main gear. I have no idea why. But it happens. You should check that first. ALso check your prop balance too. If the balance is off, you may have worn the gears enough to make them make noise now.
Posted on: 6/27/2006 9:58 AM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4436292

U-Can-Do EP Folding up midair
So I have a weird problem that just started happening since I upgraded my u-can-do EP to a new outrunner motor, specifically a himax 2816-1100 (i'm pulling that out of my head and I think i got it right). It is a 200 watt outrunner. I upgraded to the outrunner after burning up too many gears in my himax 2025-5300 geared motor. So here is the situation. This motor in this plane is like putting a 1000 horsepower motor into a pinto :-D However, while flying, if I go above half throttle the tail of the u-can-do folds to the right (if you are looking at the plane from behind). The more throttle you give it, the more it folds up until it finally completely folds to the point where it touches the wing and the plane kind of does a flat spin and the prop makes all kinds of weird noises because the plane is torquing hard, etc. The way out of this is to simply hold left rudder while flying above half throttle. But I'm trying to understand why this might happen in the first place. I was told it might be prop wash, but i wouldn't think it would apparently create a vacume or something that would force the tail to the right wing (remember this is from looking at the plane from behind). Otherwise this motor makes this plane act like a wild animal. It must climb completely vertical at 30-50 feet per second. I can easily climb to 300 ft in mere seconds. Just gotta love fast unlimited vertical performance! :-D -David
Posted on: 6/27/2006 9:52 AM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4436275

RE: Great Planes Super Sportster EP with Modified Power System
Thanks for your replies. I'm not sure what OOS veritcal means, but I'm assuming it is unlimited vertical performance? I had originally flown my sportster with a 11x5 master airscrew prop with the 600 EPIC can motor, but I had horrible performance with it. Just didn't get enough speed to do anything. I moved to a 10x6 prop and it flew considerably better. I have a 10x7 prop waiting for the plane, but haven't tried it out yet :) Been having too much fun screwing around with my Wattage Pitts. So here is the next question. In the event that the inevitable happens and the plane crashes, how does the outrunners take to crashes? :) I put my u-can-do EP in nose first when the Castle Creation cut out its BEC and I lost control of it. (BEWARE OLDER PHOENIX 25 CONTROLLERS with outrunner motors). However that outrunner didn't seem to have any problems after I dug it out of the mud :-)
Posted on: 6/27/2006 9:38 AM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4436233

RE: Great Planes Super Sportster EP with Modified Power System
I've been slowly converting my entire fleet to HiMax outrunner motors. So far I've had great results with my other planes. However, I haven't flown my Sportster yet this year! Doh! Could be because it has this Epic brushed motor and just doens't perform as well as I'd like. I'm interested in how these AXI and other outrunners perform in this plane. Do you get straight up vertical performance? What is the draw on the batteries? How about what size props you find work well? Can a Pheonix 45 ESC handle these outrunners? Do you get a lot of torque roll out of these Axis? I find that since they turn so fast, somtimes I get some weird issues out of them in my other planes-- like my ucando EP folds up on itself (the tail just folds over) and my Wattage Pitts EP, if you give it left rudder will do some crazy snap rolls, etc. Thanks David
Posted on: 6/24/2006 7:19 AM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4425025

RE: Wattage Pitts tested
I wrote up my own review of the red version of the Wattage Pitts. You can check it out here: http://www.rcplanereviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=18&Itemid=47 I also have a video of this plane flying and it is linked at the bottom of the above URL. Enjoy! David
Posted on: 5/15/2006 10:42 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4282531

Siren Hotliner
I built a siren hotliner with a brushed motor, although I didn't use the one that GP wanted me to use, but instead used a 17 turn EPIC motor that I adjusted the timing on. Plane flies great, although I did need to do some re-engineering of how the servos are mounted, etc. Check out my review of this plane: http://www.rcplanereviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=48&Itemid=51 I even have a video of it flying with music by a producer of some big named bands. :-) http://www.rcplanereviews.com/index.php?option=com_weblinks&task=view&catid=40&id=14 Enjoy! David
Posted on: 5/13/2006 6:18 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4274248

RE: New airplane
My favorate plane is my Wattage Pitts EP. It has balsa wings. Flies great with a moderatlly priced brushless motor, and it small enough to take anywhere. Although granted it flies a little fast. However, the aerobatics you can do with this plane are fantastic! Read my review and watch the video at: http://www.rcplanereviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=18&Itemid=47 Otherwise, one of the Great Planes Super Sportsters might be up your alley! The Super Sportster EP out of the box flies well and comes with a decent brushed motor. It is kind of big though, about a 48" wingspan, but it flies good, tracks well, and has a very very low stall speed. I reviewed my Sporster here: http://www.rcplanereviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&Itemid=35&id=47 Good luck finding the right plane for you!
Posted on: 5/6/2006 11:02 AM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4246527

RE: Wattage Pitts 400 EP Version 2 Reviewed!
Video of this plane flying http://www.rcplanereviews.com/index.php?option=com_weblinks&task=view&catid=40&id=7
Posted on: 5/6/2006 10:55 AM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4246508

Wattage Pitts 400 EP Version 2 Reviewed!
I wrote a detailed review and also posted a video about the Wattage Pitts EP 400 plane. If anyone would like to view it, please go here: http://www.rcplanereviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=18&Itemid=47 While you are there, please consider posting a review to be entered into the contest for a flatout! David
Posted on: 5/2/2006 9:54 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Park Flyers & Backyard Flyers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4234043

RE: Lipo battery capacity issue
Hi Matt, It probably was from a bad batch of batteries. I had bought two batteries from Apogee at the same time. One was wired wrong - the postive and negative leads were backwards! I sent bill back that battery on March 1st, to date, I have not received one back from him. Their warranty delay kind of sucks, although he claims he is out of stock right now. Here is a cool video of this.. hehe http://www.rcplanereviews.com/video/apogee-battery-problem.wmv This other battery kind of dwindled off and now is just sitting at a solid 1250 mah. I fly this battery in a Wattage Pitts running a HiMaxx 2025/5300 geared to 6.6/1 running a 9x6 prop. I put a watt meter on it and it is pulling only 15amps at WOT. So no, I'm not even near the 20C (30 amps). I usually run about half throttle because I'm still within that 15 cycle break in period on the Apogees. At half throttle, I'm pulling about 7.5 to 8 amps. I use about 5 seconds of WOT to get the plane off the ground and up about 20 feet before I cut back and just do some casual flying. Per the break in instructions, I fly until the ESC cuts me off. The ESC is set to be 3.0V cuttoff. I'm using a PHoenix-25 ESC. But like i said, the other battery that I bought in this batch was bad, so maybe it was just a bad lot. The battery that is giving me only 1250mah is the other battery that is pictured in the video. I've since bought a third Apogee battery, of the same type, but that one seems fine. I put 1450mah into it every time I fly. Thanks! David
Posted on: 3/29/2006 1:12 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4098644

Lipo battery capacity issue
I bought an Apogee 3 cell 1500 mah battery. I JUST bought it like 2 weeks ago and have about 6 flights on it. It is one of those new 20C batteries that supposedly will put out 30 amps. Anyways, every time I charge it, it takes less and less power. I'm getting pretty concerned because it is affecting my flying. At first I was getting 11minutes on my U-can-do, but now I'm down to 9 minutes. It went from holding 1500 mah down to about 1100 now. Bad battery??? What does this mean? I'm using a Hobbico Accucycle Elite charger. Is there any way I can charge this battery to get my capacity back? I'm normally charging it at 0.8 amps. Thanks, David
Posted on: 3/24/2006 8:48 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4078672

RE: U Can Do 3D EP too much flex?
To compensate for the fuselage hitting the ailerons, I cut off like 1/4 of an inch off of my ailerons. I've been flying the ucando more than any other plane. It is a ton of fun. The original motor sucks obviously, so I switched to a brushless setup. Personally, I'm a big fan of the HiMax 2025/5300 post mount motor. The ucando is FANTASTIC with that motor and a good set of batteries. I use the same motor in my Wattage Pitts EP and flew both of these planes today as a matter of fact. The motor is fantastic and the planes are fantastic too. There are tradeoffs to putting a CF rod into the Ucando. I haven't tried putting carbon fiber into the ucando, although I have thought about it before. The flex has helped though because it has a weak elevator. I've actually had the elevator come unglued and the plane just circled and smashed into the ground. Very little damage thanks to the fuselage being flexible. If it had a CF rod in it, it would probably have poke a hole somewhere you don't want a hole. As to that elevator thing, I'd highly suggest a backup elevator hinge. The hot glue won't hold it very well after pulling lots of areobatics. What I did was to wrap some nylon strips around the CF tube that the elevator is glued to, so if the elevator lets lose, the nylon strips will still keep me in the air with some ability to control the plane. I can post some pictures if anyone is interested. I've learned to fly on that plane. I must have at least 40-50 hours on it. Wonderful 3d plane.
Posted on: 3/24/2006 8:43 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4078659

NiCD batteries won't take charge, whats up?
I have a hopefully quick question. I have a brand new Hobbico Accu-cycle elite, the new one that can do the Lipos. Anyways I have three Nicd batteries, specifically these: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBNC4&P=Z Anyways I own three of these SC2100 batteries. One of them has been a wicked problem child so I cycled that four times. It claims I only get 1750 mah hours of capacity in it. Thats fine cuz the battery was flaky anyways. However, I take the two good batteries that I fly my Super Sportster EP with (flies for at least 4 minutes on these batteries) and I try to cycle them and the charger is telling me that they only can handle 225 and 285 mah respectively. Whats going on here? My two good batteries won't cycle. I took these batteries and I put them on my older Vision Peak charger and they are showing about 25-50% charged when my Accu-cycle says they are fully discharged. The accucycle settings are: 7 cell 2100 mah nicd/nimh .80 A discharge 1.05 A charge 8mv/cell 1.1 cutoff 3 cycles Any ideas why these good batteries for flying won't cycle properly with the Accucycle? Thanks ahead of time. David
Posted on: 1/31/2006 10:57 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3852319

RE: Great Planes Super Sportster EP with Modified Power System
Hey Denzel, sorry to hear about your crash. Your plane end up like this? http://www.cs.umass.edu/~davidk/supersportster/dcp_9015.jpg Here is more info on the ESC. I've never actually flown it and had it shut down the ESC during flight. I ran it on the ground in a mock flight at about half power (which puts the motor under slightly more load). THANK GOD I DID. I'd say 3 out of 4 times, the plane would run for about 5 minutes and then just shut off completely. No servos, no motor. Just dead. I flew it only once with the stock ESC. It flew for 3 minutes, came in for a landing, touched down and the plane went dead. I got very very lucky. I flew it with a 11x5 prop with the S600 motor system. IT IS NOT THE BATTERY. I have three of the basic 2200ma batteries that they provide and I've tried different batteries and they all do the same thing. It was the ESC for sure. The great mystery is that hooking up a watt meter to the plane shows that at WOT the plane is drawing 25 amps, which quickly drops down to about 22. So the ESC is supposed to handle 30 continuous, and it won't even do 22 continuous. So my opinion is that it is just junk, throw it away and get a CC Pegasus 35. The plane itself is an awesome value, but to keep the costs down they throw in that junk ESC. :-P David
Posted on: 1/16/2006 10:01 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3784605

RE: Great Planes Super Sportster EP with Modified Power System
Just my 2 cents: I disagree with the ESC statement. The ESC that Great Planes provides with the Super Sportster EP is *JUNK*. TWICE i had my ESC overheat to the point where it makes sizzle noises and the entire plane shut off, so not even the servos work. I've tried everything from moving the ESC to the back of the plane to putting designer air vents in the body to force air onto the ESC. I even called up GP and had them send me a new one and the new one did the same thing. My solution was to buy a Castle Creations Peagus-35 ESC. I haven't had a problem since... So if you love this plane as much as I do, don't trust the ESC they give you, it is trash. BTW, if you want to see a picture of my designer air vent: http://www.cs.umass.edu/~davidk/supersportster/dcp_8988.jpg Good luck! David
Posted on: 1/14/2006 10:40 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3775619

RE: Adjusting a brushed motor timing?
Hi Walt, Thank you for taking the time to run these calculations for me. They were very useful for understanding what the limits of this motor / airplane combination are. What you described for climb angles are pretty consistent with how the plane actually flies. Where can I get that ecalc program? it seems to be pretty useful, especially when playing with prop sizes and how it will affect the plane (which I'm still learning about). If you could throw me a link, I'd appreciate that so I could do some analysis of my other planes. Thank you, and Merry Christmas to you and yours as well :-) David
Posted on: 12/14/2005 2:37 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3653559

RE: Adjusting a brushed motor timing?
DOH! *slap head* Thanks for the clarification! I'm flying a 48 inch wingspan Super Sportster made by Great planes. The plane weighs in at about 3.5 pounds. All of its specs are (from the Great Planes web page): Specifications Stock Number: GPMA1160 Wingspan: 48 in (1220 mm) Wing Area: 383 sq in (24.7 dm2) Weight: 52 oz (1475 g) Wing Loading: 19.5 oz/sq ft (60 g/dm2) Length: 39 in (990 mm) Includes: complete power system, featuring a 550-size motor, 2:1 gear drive, prop, spinner, 30A ESC & 7-cell 2100mAh NiCd battery pack Requires: 4-channel radio w/3 mini servos, and charger Thanks a lot! :) David I think I'll be getting the Siren for Christmas. Its specs are: SPECIFICATIONS Stock Number: GPMA1065 Wing Airfoil: RG15 Wingspan: 79 in (2000 mm) Wing Area: 492 sq in (31.8 dm2) Weight (RTF, minus battery weight): 32.5 oz (920 g) Wing Loading (RTF, minus battery weight): 9.1 oz/sq ft (28 g/dm2) Length: 38.5 in (978 mm) Requires: 3-4 channel radio w/3 micro or nano servos, motor, ESC, prop, spinner
Posted on: 12/10/2005 8:43 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3640020

RE: Adjusting a brushed motor timing?
"If you can give me the data on the a/c you are currently flying I can run the whole package thru e-calc and " Hi Walt, not to be ignorant or anything, but I'm relatively new to RC planes, so I'm not sure what you mean by "A/C" that I'm flying with. If you can explain, I'd be happy to give you that data :-) Thank so much for doing this for me, this has been very helpful. David P.S., Wish I knew about the Cermark Breeze. I like the fact that that plane has a rudder where the Siren doesn't, which I think is a major drawback.
Posted on: 12/8/2005 3:00 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3631988

RE: Great Planes Super Sportster EP with Modified Power System
I was also not able to find it. The Tower Hobby rep suggested that I build my own. Unfortunately I threw away the list of batteries that were high power that you could link together. But look at TowerHobbies.com I recently purchased an Integy 3600 pack: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLFW5&P=0 However, these are VERY HEAVY (although i have no scale, so I can't tell you how heavy). I haven't tried my sporster with one yet. I have a GP Ryan kit that I was going to build over the winter and was thinking about modifying the fuselage while building to handle these heavier packs. David
Posted on: 12/8/2005 2:25 PM by Author "ayrobotech" in the forum "Electric Aerobatic & Sport Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3631878