RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Good on you mate! I spent two tours of duty doing consulting work in Jewett, TX. I hooked up with a retired tool & die maker who lived midway between Jewett and College Station. He had a small garage in back of his house that he had converted to his model airplane workshop. No AC! Just a fan. Funny how you can adapt to the heat sipping brewskies and sweating your cojones off. And that was just in his workshop. On weekend mornings and evenings we would boogie down to College Station to do some flying. The winds were a given. If you couldn't fly in the wind, you couldn't fly. Other than that, the flying was great unless you ditched in the rough. Did I mention fire ants? I could regale you with stories about scorpions in my shoes and rattlers sleeping in the storm door tracks. But my hat is off to the RC flyers of Texas, a great bunch of dedicated guys (you know who you are). AlZ
Posted on: 9/5/2012 8:57 PM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11219070

RE: DLE 30 replacement carb
There is nothing wrong with the DLE carb, and for $35.00 how can you go wrong? AJZ
Posted on: 9/2/2012 9:07 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11214464

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
I use an Mpi heavy duty switch and always balance charge the batteries in the plane. I use a Cellpro 4s with a modified connector. You have to cut the white wire going from the switch to the receiver. AlZ
Posted on: 8/29/2012 7:46 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11210192

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Here the results of the A123 test
Posted on: 8/21/2012 10:50 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201007

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
First of all, let me say that I am not trolling nor am I looking to engage in a debate. I am simply sharing the results of an experiment I undertook to satisfy myself about the relative merits of NiMH battery chemistry vs. A123 battery chemistry. At the same time I was able to draw some conclusions regarding 6.0 volt packs vs. 4.8 volt packs. Here is my set-up: A servo cycler capable of cycling 2 servos simultaneously Two Hitec 5625 digital metal gear servos A 4.8 volt 2500mAh NiMH pack A 6.6 volt 2300mAh A123 pack A digital voltmeter First I measured the battery voltage no load. Next I hooked up each battery to the servo cycler and recorded the voltage. The results: NiMH no load - 5.08 volts NiMH load - 4.46 volts A123 no load - 6.88 volts A123 load - 6.81 volts You be the judge. AlZ
Posted on: 8/21/2012 10:48 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11201002

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Thanks MD I've had my engines apart but frankly did not pay very close attention to the cylinders other than to see if there was any flashing from the machining process. AlZ
Posted on: 8/21/2012 9:42 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200939

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
MD I'm not debating whether break-in is necessary. Just the how. I have two DLE-30 and one DLE-55. I broke them all in on Stihl petroleom based oil at 32:1. Then I switched to Stihl synthetic at 40:1. The only exception is the engine on the GSS which I started right off on Stihl synthetic 40:1. I replaced the stock rings with Bowman rings on all three. During the break-in period (about 1 gallon) I never ran the engines hard. In every case I set the high needle for maximum RPM. I now have over 15 gallons through my first two DLE's and I run them hard (3D). Time will tell. The GSS will not get the same workout as the MXS-R (30cc) and the Yak (55cc). The point I was trying to make was that your poor fuel efficiency is most likely due to running too rich. You will also find that you will quickly foul the plugs. So as far as running rich during break-in we will have to agree to disagree. By the way, where did you get the info that the cylinders are chrome plated? This is the first I heard of that. Best regards Al
Posted on: 8/21/2012 8:38 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200880

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
An 18 x 6 is underpropped for a DLE-30. An 18 x 8 will work and 7700 rpm seems to be about right but may be on the low side. I'm not familiar with those props. I use an Xoar 19 x 8 and get 7400 top end. I also re-fitted my DLE with a Frank Bowman ring and sanded my reed block flat. I use an after-market 12 oz. tank and usually have about 1/4 to 1/3 tank left after a 10 minute flight, sometimes 15 minutes if I'm shooting a lot of touch and goes. A common mistake made by folks new to gassers is the belief that you should run the engine rich during break-in. All you will do is carbon up your engine. Set the high needle for max rpm at full throttle, then set the low needle for good idle & smooth transition. Go back and check the high needle and you should be good to go. I use Stihl HP Ultra 40:1 in mu fuel mix Al
Posted on: 8/21/2012 6:22 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200732

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Hi MD What prop are you running and what is your top end RPM? Al
Posted on: 8/21/2012 5:12 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11200665

RE: Llow time turbines for sale - Beware
There are four general categories of stainless steel. Austenitic, ferritic, martensitic, and precipitation hardening. Austenitic and ferritic stainless grades are very low carbon and hence are work hardening and would never be used in an application that requires a hardened material. They are also the most corrosion resistant. Martensitic stainless (e.g. 440C) would typically be used in a ball bearing application. It is 17% chromium and 1% carbon. It is very susceptible to corrosion, particularly any acid produced as a by-product of combustion. Precipitation hardening stainless steels (e.g. 15-5 PH) are used where corrosion resistance, hardness and toughness are required. This makes it an excellent candidate for shafting applications. So what do the full scale turbines use? It depends on the application, but for bearings most likely ceramic. Other components are double vacuum melted nickel base or cobalt base super alloys. AJZ
Posted on: 8/15/2012 9:03 PM by Author "azalner" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11195294

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
I became dis-illusioned with the NiMH for several reasons. 1. They don't last very long. I used to run NiCd's for 3 or 4 years, not NiMH. 2. Fast charging only accelerates the aging process. 3. They lose charge when sitting. I had an A123 that I charged in May sitting on the shelf. When I checked the charge it was at full capacity! Others on this forum have pointed out reasons that I hadn't even thought of. My $.02. Al
Posted on: 8/8/2012 10:42 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185699

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
+1 what he said. That's why I switched to A123. Al
Posted on: 8/8/2012 7:58 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11185501

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Hey MD Sorry to hear about your dust up with the dirt bike. As a veteran of numerous knee surgeries I can empathize. One of the negatives about the GSS is you have to lay it on its back to attach the wing (or to do anything at all with the innards). That stringer is very vulnerable and it's going to happen again, even if you manage to squeeze a little juice in there. My suggestion is to remove the covering between the bulkheads down to the stringer on either side of the top stringer. Now glue in a stiffener under the top stringer between the bulkheads and re-cover. Fortunately it's white and blends in quite easily. If you don't feel like buying a whole roll of covering for a minor repair, PM me with your address and I'll send you some white monokote. Al
Posted on: 8/6/2012 6:23 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11182692

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
You could get an after-market Pitts muffler for your DLE like i did, but it will cost you another $75- $90 depending on where you buy it. When you look at it that way the new DLE-35 is not such a bad deal. Its a shame to mess up the lovely lines of this airframe by chopping up the cowl. But, you gotta do what you gotta do. You might consider buying a spare cowl if you later decide to get a Pitts muffler. Al Z
Posted on: 7/19/2012 7:05 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11161019

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Guys It's time to knock it off. One of the nice things about this thread is that it is subscribed to by a lot of nice folks who get along and enjoy this particular airframe. With that having been said this aircraft is an intermediate sport aircraft. So let's cut to the chase and determine where the CG should be. You can determine the correct CG by simply flying your aircraft. Start by trimming your aircraft so that it is flying staight and level hands off. Got it? Good. Now roll inverted. What happened? If you needed a lot of down elevator to hold level flight you need to add tail weight (or move components back). If you need a lot of up elevator to hold level flight you need to add nose weight (or move components forward). I personally don't like slowing the plane to a crawl for landing, it spoils you for other aircraft. My other plane is a 9.5 lb. MXS_R with a DLE-30. It flies 3D quite nicely with the plane balanced using the above procedure. If you must slow it down use flaperons or learn to use your rudder and crab it in. Now go outside and play. Al Z
Posted on: 7/18/2012 8:18 PM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11160635

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Mine came in at 13.5 lbs. Tank is just forward of the CG. Using a single 2300mAh LIFE battery for radio and ignition (IBEC). Carbon fiber landing gear secured to the fuselage with 1" aluminum angle. MY CG is roughly 1/2" behind factory recommendation because that is just how it turned out. Flies fine, no need to tinker with it. DLE-30 with 19 x 8 XOAR prop. Idle set at 1650 RPM. I fly it right down to the deck and chop the throttle when I get into ground efffect. Beautiful landings every time. Three weeks ago I was challenged by the local peanut gallery to see how many touch & gos I could do. I quit after 25. Al
Posted on: 7/18/2012 7:48 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11159825

RE: [Awaiting Approval]
[quote]ORIGINAL: OliverJacob +1 on LiFe. LiPos are good for a high discharge rate, but need to be taken out of the model to get charged. LiPo fires happen more often then you'd think. LiFe cells have a low self discharge rate, can be charged in less then 1 hour and provide enough current for your radio. In most cases you will need a voltage regulator, make sure it has a high enough amp rating. I still use lots of Nimh and it is a hit and miss, some never reach nearly the labeled capacity. [/quote] With LiFe chemistry you do not need a voltage regulator for servos and receivers. You will need one for ignitions unless you have one of the newer high voltage ignitions. LiFe voltage quickly drops to 6.6 volts and stays there as soon as they see a load. Been using LiFe for two years and that has been my experience.
Posted on: 7/8/2012 2:11 PM by Author "azalner" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147788

RE: Why are we using NiMh...really?
[quote]ORIGINAL: av8tor1977 I [b][u]hate[/u][/b] NIMH batteries and have had tons of troubles with them. I have nicad packs that are 6 years old that still cycle perfectly. I've never had a NIMH pack last a year. Of course mine suffer from high temps in my storage area and sometimes lack of use, but Nicads beat the h e l l out of them. I've gone back to Nicads in many cases, plus half my fleet is on Lipolys, but my next step will be to outfit everything I own with A123 batts... AV8TOR [/quote] What he said!
Posted on: 7/8/2012 2:06 PM by Author "azalner" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11147777

RE: Airtronic SD 10 G charger- battery failure in flight
[quote]ORIGINAL: wesaysoracing i never use the wall chargers that come with my airtronics radios, i use a peak detection charger, as most of my battery packs are 6v 2000 ma or larger [/quote] +1
Posted on: 7/5/2012 5:12 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11143614

RE: Is it my ignition or engine?
This has been posted here before by JediJodi, but here it is again. This time pay attention: [b] Troubleshooting guide for RcExl ignitions [/b] If you have no spark or think you are having an ignition problem, carefully following this guide will test the ignition module, hall sensor, and spark plug cap components. This guide can be used for single or twin cylinder ignitions; it does not test the manual or any optical ignition switches that may be in the system. You will need a good fully charged 4 cell NiCd or NiMH battery, an old servo extension, and your trusty volt meter. Take an old expendable servo extension and cut off the male plug end, separate the wires, strip a bit of insulation from each of the 3 leads and plug the other end into the sensor lead on the ignition module. Put a good spark plug in the cap, doesn't need to be all the way seated but far enough for the hex of the plug to make good contact with the metal shell of the plug cap, plug a fully charged 4 cell battery directly into the ignition. Test for battery voltage at the red and black wires of the test extension you made and plugged into the sensor lead of the module, if there is no voltage replace the module, if there is battery voltage: Short the white and black wires together, every time you break this connection there should be a spark, if there is no spark or intermittent spark you have a bad module. If you get a good spark: Remove the test lead and plug the sensor on the engine into the module and turn the engine over, if no spark, replace the sensor. If you have a good spark: Remove the spark plug, look down into the plug cap and turn the engine over, if you see spark arcing through the silicone boot to the metal shell, replace the spark plug cap. If there is no visible spark but you hear a snap: Put a small screw driver into the bottom of the cap, turn the engine over and you should observe spark jumping from the screw driver to the plug cap shell outside of the silicone boot, an arc of about 1/4"-3/8". If it does this there is nothing wrong with the ignition. If you hear an arc but it's not in the cap with the screw driver, it could be a problem with the resistor in the cap or the high tension lead where it goes into the cap, replace the plug cap. All of this can be done on a bench; the plug does not need to be grounded to the engine. As Jodi would say: Now go outside and play!
Posted on: 6/15/2012 7:49 PM by Author "azalner" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11119749

RE: Is it my ignition or engine?
[quote]ORIGINAL: gagallagher04401 When I remove those 4 bolts though on the bottom of the engine, won't I need to replace the gasket? Any seals? etc... [/quote] See the following link for assembly instructions: [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=1074[/link]
Posted on: 6/8/2012 7:16 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111171

RE: Is it my ignition or engine?
If you are using a regulator with 4.8 volt batteries, there is a good chance that the regulator is cutting in and out. Lose the regulator!
Posted on: 6/8/2012 7:00 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11111153

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
My personal choice on all giant scale planes are Robart hinges. But that's just me. Tried gorilla glue. Didn't like it. Expands and oozes all over the place. Stick with epoxy. Al
Posted on: 6/5/2012 7:55 PM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11108113

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
I used a carbon fiber gear from SDS [link]http://www.sdshobby.net/landing-gear-for-extra300-50cc-p-1583.html[/link] As far as pictures go, if you take the time to read through this thread you will find tons of pictures describing various gear modifications and installations. Good luck!
Posted on: 6/5/2012 6:07 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11107078

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Awesome! Congratulations! I flew mine again this past Thursday with High rates and had a ball doing slow speed high alpha maneuvers. As heavy as the plane is you wouldn't think it possible. I am using a 19x8 Xoar, but I think a 20x6 might be more appropriate. We'll see. Nice fish by the way. I also went fishing Saturday on the Ohio river. Result: 1 crappie, 1 white bass, 1 walleye, 4 smallmouth. I had a very good week. Al
Posted on: 6/4/2012 7:57 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11105795

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Did you maiden this weekend?
Posted on: 6/2/2012 7:47 PM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11104276

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
For an excellent discussion of flutter and how to prevent it click on the following link: [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=1289[/link]
Posted on: 6/1/2012 6:18 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11102297

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
Go for it!!!!!!![:D]
Posted on: 5/30/2012 4:23 PM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11100488

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
MD I didn't really phrase my post correctly. I didn't mean that I recommended the 5485, just that I used them with some success and they are cheap. You are right about the torque. I was running my 5485's at 6.6 volts and getting over 90 oz-in of torque at 0.15 sec. Those were the numbers that stuck in my head. I run all my planes at 6.6 volts (A-123) now. The HS-77's should be ok on the elevators, but may be a little light in the loafers if you are doing knife edges. The overwhelming majority of the gasser community recommends metal gear so I'll err on the side of caution. By the way, I still say you should trash the glitchy servo. Al
Posted on: 5/30/2012 2:00 PM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11100298

RE: New Giant GP Super Sportster!!!!!
The HS-77BB is inappropriate for your application. You should be using metal gear servos. In addition it appears that you have an intermittent connection to the feedback pot. Pitch the servo, it aint worth keeping! I used Hitec HS-5485HB servos in a 30cc powered Edge 540. Flew it for two seasons before I re-kitted it. (Rolling harrier 10 ft off the ground - oops) I don't reuse servos after a bad crash. The HS-5485HB are digital with Karbonite gears and are very reasonably priced with almost twice the torque as the HS_77BB. My advise - get rid of the HS-77's. Al
Posted on: 5/29/2012 5:44 AM by Author "azalner" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11098344