RE: Please educate me on mixing fuel (methanol)
I mix my own fuel, no nitro. I believe in simple. I take one quart of oil, dump it in my mix container and add a gallon of methanol as measured using an old fuel container. I shake it up, add a couple drops of original Amour All (a simple defoamer), shake it up again (I like to see the foam reduction), fill up my field container and the rest remains in the old fuel container. This make 20% oil. Some times I add a 10-16extra ounces of methanol to the mix to approach 18 %. Most commercial fuels today use 17-18% oil. I use Klotz super techniplate. Why the obsession with making exactly a gallon?
Posted on: 5/29/2013 7:19 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11527337

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
The Fayetteville RC Club is proud to put the Phencepost back on the web. Not alot on the pages but there is the contact information for Mike and his great designs. The pages will get developed over time. You can obtain copies of the manuals and contact Mike for kits. The club flys Phenceposts in combat nearly every Sunday. It is great to be associated with Mike and his designs. [link=http://www.fayettevillercclub.com/id72.html]hattrickrc phencepost[/link]
Posted on: 5/11/2012 7:47 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11077321

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
My fuselage is 22.5" long
Posted on: 4/10/2012 4:42 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11036743

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
OH! Balance is 2.75" behind the leading edge about 6" from either side of center. I push a small dimple into the foam to mark the spot. Make your first balance point nose heavy. These things are very jittery by design, if tail heavy you have be uncontrollable.
Posted on: 4/9/2012 4:37 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11035080

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
Just say no to duct tape, it is too haeavy. The colored packing tape I use is very thin, you can see through it easily. I am not familar with monofilament tape. I am also not familar with drywall tape use. These maybe source of your weight. Like DaneMcGee my birds are 3 lbs. My tails are 5.5 to 6.5 inches long and 14.5 inches wide. all have a small amout of taper in leading edge and rounded corners. The trailing edge is very shallow taper or just plain straight. They have either 8 or nine corrugation to form the elevator. The 9 or tenth corrugation is the hinge. Make the hing by removeing the skine between two ribs, leave all and both of the ribs. Work the hing a few times to loosen. Skewers, left to right, in the tail strengthen it immensely. Put a skewer on both sides of the elevator hinge line. See photo for tracing of fin. Crude and I had to use my son's handwriting practice page for paper. The fin is huge and needs to be. These birds must be made to fly right with large fin. THe spot on photo noting the back of fuselage is also the hinge line for the elevator. Bamboo skewers in the vertical help hold the fin upright. The wing hold downs have some design. They set the incidence of the wing. I think it is important. The hold down on the front of wing is thicker. It is a full 3/8" above the fuselage rather than the 1/4" thickness of the trailing edge. I do not know where this puts the incidence but I would try to duplicate this. Some of us at the field do not use the G10 strip, the flat yellow fiberglass peice in DaneMcGee's picture. No worries if you can not duplicate the peice. Balance the plane by sliding the wing and the two holds downs (as a complete peice) for or aft. Balance point is 2.75" from leading edge about 6" out from each side of center. I make a small indent in the foam to mark the spot. There should be a large turnout this Sunday at Fayetteville club. Come down for a maiden combat sortie. After we smack you down, question your manhood and otherwise humiliate you and your loved ones; we will offer you cold drinks, sage advice on combat and life along with hollow sympathy for your crushed bird and ego.
Posted on: 4/9/2012 4:22 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11035064

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
You acheive balance by moving wing back or forward. once balance is found secure the wing mounts with a screw. Velcro between w2ing and the peice of yellow fiberglass used as a saddle. It gives to prevent a break but holds wing from twisting during normal manuvering. IF flying 72 mhz Berg makes great small RX and are cheap.
Posted on: 4/8/2012 12:30 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11033327

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
couple shots of rear fuselage. You should cur an opening in top of fuse to insert battery and RX. I covered most of hole with orange tape. place battery as far rear as possible. make sure to place something to prevent the battery from moving forward and crushing the RX. My battery is between the orange tape and the elevator servo. I usually just run a bolt through the fuse to cage the battery.
Posted on: 4/8/2012 12:27 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11033323

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
Throttle servo mount and engine mount. Note that the engine mount should be at top of fuselage. I use a peice of plywood to take up space at bottom of fuse. I secure the engine mount with 3 #4 screws into blind nuts at bottom of fuselage.
Posted on: 4/8/2012 12:16 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11033307

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
coroplast tail and fin. Shadows are the bamboo skerers. NOte the #2 sheet metal screws and fender washers to attach coroplast. The fender washers just span over the skewers
Posted on: 4/8/2012 12:00 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11033291

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
some photos may help. red is bottom yellow is top
Posted on: 4/8/2012 11:57 AM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11033284

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
Yes, I figured that was you but was not sure. Charging the camera batterys for some pictures.
Posted on: 4/8/2012 11:42 AM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11033269

RE: (how to?) Phencepost Combat plane from Hattrickrc.com
Shannon, Examine the the wing profile carefully. It should be labeled left and right. THe wing is nearly symetrical but it is slightly flatter on the bottom. I build the wing with gorrilla glue. Start by placing newspaper or saran wrap on the build table. Gorilla glue is messy. glue wing to gether and hold with masking tape across the seam. Wing should be upright. Put gorilla glue down the spar slot. I wipe the spar with a damp rag to ensure the glue activates. Push the spar into the slot. I have a tool I ground from a butter knife for this. It is a shallow two tine fork to press the spar into wing. The fork is just wider than the spar diameter, the shape prevents the tool from slipping off the spar and peirceing the wing. Place masking tape over the spar slot. Check back often over the next 30 minutes to wipe up gorrilla glue as it foams. When dry, flip over and repeat. The wing should be upside down now. Top spar first, bottom spar last will give some dihederal to the wing due to wing thickness taper. Clean up the gorilla glue with razor blades and sand paper. the stuff is pretty tuff, cleaning up before it sets makes the step easier. Next I use five minute epoxy to place the strapping along entire leading and trailing edge. I do the trailing edge first. I hold it in place by wrapping bi directional tape around it. You'll have to trim the strapping a little at the wing tips for a good fit. I do the leading edge latter when the trailing has set. However I glue the EPP leading edge at the same time. I hold the EPP stuff in place with a couple strips of bi directional. Ailerons are next. I place mine with the flat side up, so the bevel is on bottom and the aileron is flat across the top with the wing. Apply a light dusting of 3M Spary adhesive. This stuff will melt foam so keep about 12" from plane and use light coat. Wait a couple of minutes for it to dry, it will still be tacky. The solvent causes problems if trapped under the tape. This greatly helps to bond tape to foam. Flip the aileron completly up and on top of wing. run a strip of bi di tape down bottom of aileron and trailing edge of wing. Wing should pivot along top edge of trailing edge. In a similar manner spray the top of wing and aileron and place bi di tape. The ailerons might be a little stiff but they will quickly work lose. Using same technique of light spray with Bi DI tape run a single strip of bi di tape over top and bottom spars. Some omit these strips for a lighter plane. I harden with 1/8" light play or similar about 1"x 4" area both top and bottom at the rear center of wing. I place either 1/4" wooden down or peice from the spar for rubber band hold down. The hold down should be trough the wood. The wood keeps the rubber bands from crushing the wing. I recess my peice into wing by removing the appropriate depth of foam from wing. I glue with epoxy or gorilla. On the front I am a little more generous with the wood using 1-1/2" x 5" area in a similar fashion, behind the EPP section. Now start at rear of wing with the bottom. Using 3m spray adhesive and colored packing tape, coat the bottom of plane. I make a seam in the center , working both left and right half forward at same time. I single strip of colored packing tape down center makes for a neat job. Overlaping the seam starting from the rear helps to shed oil. Club sells this for about $3 a roll. You'll want two opposing colors. Coat top and bottom half in different colors to aid in orientation. With that finished, I drill the holes for the rubber band hold downs thorugh the wood peices. This are on the wing center left to right and in the center of the wood peice. Insert and glue either 1/4" wood dowels or short peice from spar. make sue this dowel engages wood on both tip and bottom. Cut a hole starting about 1/2" behind the spar continuing to back of wing for aileron servo. I glue this into place with hot glue. I add a peice of plastic, 1/16" thick about 6" wide and covering area from front rubber band hold down. I do not know where I got the peice. It replaced the holy white plastic peices shown in above photo. One can apply some heat with a heat gun or blow drier to make it easier to shap into airfoil shape. Try to wrap it from hold down, over wood, over the top of EPP leading edge and then just into botom section. This peice help to prevent rubber band crush. Make it mush wider than wher band are as in a mid air or crash the wing moves and pivots. unless the plastic is at least 5 inches wide the rubber band slip and crush outside the plastic. I do not do this in the back. It does not have the EPP and does not need extra sturcture to prevent crush. A monokote iron set about 1-1/2 to 2 will shrink the tape and increase the bond to foam. However be advised that the shrink temp and tape melt temp are not very far apart. Practice on some scrap first. The fuse can be purchased at a Tractor Supply Company. It is electric fence post, hence the Phencepost name. Been a couple years since I bought one there. I remember one has to cut it to shape, but unsure of what to do. The sue peices can be cut from a kitchen cutting board. They are a slightly thinner and softer material than what hattrickrc supplies. You'll need a jig saw or similar. Fin and horizontal stabilaer are cut from corrugated pastic sign material. Pick up a good looking color at nearly any busy street intersection. Election years are great for getting this material. I'd trace a pattern from the planes at the club field. Bamboo skewers stuck down the corrugation add the necessary stiffness. the elevator hing is formed by removeing the bottom sking from between adjacnet corrugation. Best to look at a plane at the field. Hattrickrc shows one making washer out fo thin would or plstic and using wood screws to attach to fuse. I bought short #2 sheet metal screws and fender washer to do this. www.microfasteners.com Where ever I place a screw and washerthere is a skewer on either side of it, the fender washer is just large enough to contact both skewers. examine planes at the field for cutout on the servos. I use metal gear HS82MG hitec for this. I've busted some servo arms but never had one fail. Use them for elevator and throttle. The OS 25 FX is the favorite engine but it is worth $140. The new Magnum 25 XLS is so close to the FX. It is $70. AAA size batery in 4.8V is plenty of power. I use 350 mah or better. 350 will give two flights and according to my cycler, a third was possible. I try to add pictures tommorow. Talk it up with the other pilots at the field for help. This helps us with the guilt as we smack you down! See you at the field and watch your six! Scott Happel Fayetteville RC Club.
Posted on: 4/7/2012 10:17 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11032571

RE: King Altair Build by C4 Hobbies (Kevin Clark)
I took my King Altair out for its maiden today. I have been afraid of flying the machine, as it took me two years to build. I glassed it, painted with KlassKote epoxy, mounted taildragger retracts and ST 90. I finally finished it just before Christmas. There was some radio issues and a throttle servo mount was loose. Descretation is the better part of valor, so I packed it up so I can work on it at home. Below are some photos I took to document the plane. I guess I'll have to wait for the maiden for a couple more weeks.
Posted on: 3/18/2012 5:47 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11006102

RE: 2012 Hog Bipe rides again
Have read this thread since you started. My Hog, R.I.P, was an early build for me and still my favorite plane. Although she passed several years ago, I had yet to start on the box in my attic that has sat since Christmas 2009. I reviewed www.fubarhill.com, that is my Hog Bipe on top of page 5. I wax nostalgic for the Hog Bipe and I opened it today. Glued together some sub assembliess and sorted out my build modifications. I'll move the gear forward 1/4" and glue and tristock the mount thourghly. I'll cut off the cheeks and build out a balsa cowl. I'll' add about 3/4" to rudder and a add a small counterbalance then shape to a more golden age look, and I'll use Sullivan Gold-N-Rods. The Hog gear location makes for nose overs, the mount is wimpy, I like a cowl and a side mounted engine, the rudder even with 3/4" is a too small for a knife edge, the stock Sig pushrods have a horrible coefficent of expansion and the fin and rudder look more at home on a WWII fighter than a biplane. I really like the looks of the fabric on the build. Ultracote is my wrap of choice but it does look a little out of place on a biplane. I just finished painting my last build. It is a King Altair, fully fiberglassed and sprayed with blue and orange KlassKote epoxy. Looks wonderful. However all the time, effort and money in the finishing makes me scared to fly it. So your covering comes colored? When I get closer to covering I'll decide. For now its clue, carve and sand time. I stuck the Fox 74 in the glycol croc pot to get it clean and shiny. This engine worked well in the first biplane and the Goldberg Super Chipmunk that took its place. I am a slow builder so perhaps I'll get it done for the fall. I'll post some pics. Looking forward to sharing the build and flight experience with you on RCU.
Posted on: 3/10/2012 5:05 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10994661

RE: mosquito pump spray!!
YOu spray painted the plane using the moskito sprayer?
Posted on: 11/17/2011 6:12 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10817273

RE: New kit ideas?
How about a predator drone knock off? Not necessarily scale kit but a stand off. Would be neat to do a candy drop with this model!
Posted on: 10/26/2011 12:50 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10783761

RE: Watcha Buildin'?
Building a Home and Hobby Solutions 'King Altair'. I am fiberglassing and painting with KlassKote epoxy. Robart retracts and ST 90 inverted. Lotsa work. I expect to complete this winter and fly in spring. This is my second winter build, second winter coming but zero completed planes. Perhaps next weekend I'll have on all the cloth and can start the sand and fill phase.
Posted on: 9/16/2011 2:58 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10719962

RE: What paint can take 30% nitro
I can not speak from personal experience as I do not fly 30%. I would think epoxy paint would resist nitromethane. Try these guys: [link=http://www.klasskote.com]Klass Kote Epoxy Paint[/link]
Posted on: 3/25/2011 3:43 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10422597

RE: Possible wood filler?
I prefer to use epoxy and microballons, mixed with as much microballons as possible. I use laminating resin for the epoxy it is thinner then the glue types, enabling greater portion of ballons and easier sanding. Sands best of any thing I tried. It does take a full day to harden however. I tried sandable wood glue (original titebond) and balsa dust it does do an barely acceptable job but is harder to sand than the microballons or balsa and was difficult to make a fine feathered edge. Now Ambroid and balsa dust makes a great sandable filler. Dries quite quickly when filling thin dings and dents. I use it for a quick ding fill if I happen to have some balsa dust. Plus I love the smell of Ambroid. But for those quick repairs I use Hobbico balsa filler. Scott
Posted on: 1/26/2011 6:12 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10291396

RE: Sig Hog Bipe Cowl
Wicked, Great looking example of a Hog Bipe. I am very familar with the construction of the cowl and engine mount on this plane. Sadly that Hog Bipe is departed but still my favorite plane. I used glass filled resin type of engine mount. I use #6 socket head sheet metal screws to mount the engine. They will easily self tap into the proper sized hole. If you insist on using a nut and bolt consider this: To acess muffler bolts through a similar built up cowl on an inverted engine, after model was covered, I drilled a small hole directly opposite of a socket head screw. Through the hole I could insert a hex key to turn the screw. You could do the same by reversing the normal orientation of the screw and nut. Put the nut on "top" of the engine where you can get a hold of it through the cowl opening. The four holes to access a socket head screw would be on the left side of the cowl. Thanks for the implied compliment Scott
Posted on: 1/26/2011 5:56 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10291358

RE: Searching through tip&techniques
If you are speaking of the pages in a thread, after the last post on any page there is several options to select pages. On of the is a pull down marked by a down arrow. Click on it and you can jump to any page in the thread.
Posted on: 11/27/2010 7:37 AM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10162219

Regular servo on retract channel?
I have a Futaba T6XAS 6 channel radio where channel five is the retract switch. I plan to use flaperons on this plane in additon to retract installation. I'm using the pneumatic Robart system. The throw on the air valve is only a 1/4". A retract servo is heavy, I have plenty of regular servos and with 180 degrees of travel on a retract servo this will make it difficult to get just a 1/4" of travel. Can I use a regular servo on channel five?
Posted on: 11/21/2010 8:44 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10150577

RE: Club FOX!
I agree with Hobbsy. The gray silicone deflectors do take a dB or two off the noise. The snufflers are from JTEC also. They mount easily and secure to the Fox muffler. I too like the sound. I snatched a few Fox quiet mufflers off of Ebay over the years. They work great; great sound reduction and same or slightly better power than stock muffler. I wish Fox still made them. The 45 size quiet muffler comes apart. There are three baffles in there and several machined peices. This would make for an expensive muffler, likely the reason it was discontinued.
Posted on: 10/4/2010 10:33 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10048010

RE: Club FOX!
Yes, it is louder than the Fox factory muffler. With a tube plugged I'd say about the same sound level.
Posted on: 10/4/2010 5:26 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10047243

RE: Club FOX!
JTEC sells a bolt on Pitts style. I run mine with one tube plugged. [link=http://www.jtecrc.com]JTEC RC[/link]
Posted on: 10/2/2010 7:22 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10043192

RE: New Magnum engines
The 25FX has been trouble free easy to tune and idle. The 28 I always found harder to start, vibrated excessively and sensitive to the needle. How's the new 25 XLS compare to the 25FX and 28 XL?
Posted on: 10/1/2010 7:04 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10041308

RE: New Magnum engines
I emailed hobby People about the 25 xls. They said they expect a mid sept. shipment. That was on 8/13/10
Posted on: 9/6/2010 5:46 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "RC Combat"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9984429

RE: Club FOX!
The fuel jet assembly can be rotated to any postion you desire the spray hole. Since the jet is held to the body under the shoulder of the screw one is not aligning bolt holes. You are limited by the position of the fule nipple as it rotates with the jet. I do not see how this would change the midrange however. The hole is just a round hole and the needle has a slight taper then rounded off at the end. Rotating the hole makes no difference in the shape of the space between the hole and the needle; There is a slight bevel on the interior of the spray bar at the low speed needle side. I would guess this corresponds to the bevel on the low speed needle. So to answer your question over travel to the idle side could flair the spray bar. I made three flights today. Starting with the Fox instruction everything was sloppy rich. The high speed needle worked great and it was quickly tuned. The low speed was very rich and took several interations to get a reliable idle and transition. Leaving it as rich as I thought desirable I took off. Vertical manevuers were no issue, the engine noticably leaned with the nose point vertical. It seemed rich all over so I landed and adjusted. As the tank emptied the engine throtted well. The mid range is rich from 1/3 to 2/3 throttle. Second flight I leaned it out. The idle transition improved and the Vertical manevuers still were without incident. The leaner setting made for better tranistions through out the range. The mid range is still rich from above 50% to around 75 or so. Thrid flight same as first, but I think I will lean it out even more next time I am at the field. Compared to the MK carb, I'd say the idle transition is nearly the same. The MK does run a little leaner in the midrange, there might be a small increase in fuel draw but not sure. THe engine did not seem to lean and run hot as tank emptied. This may be to my rich setting. The tip of the needle is just barely visible in the spray orifice at full throttle. Overall a postive, really like the low speed ease of adjustment. I never had to shut the engine down to adjust the low speed. I just used a screwdriver type hex key. Could not find a leak anywhere in the needles. An improvement over the previous Fox carb. That opionion is due mostly to the sealed needles and their actuation with a hex key. If needing a replacment carb, buy this one without hesitation. IF getting a new engine from Fox insist they put this one on it.
Posted on: 8/29/2010 4:45 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9967448

RE: Club FOX!
The carb came out in May, 2010.
Posted on: 8/29/2010 7:37 AM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9966702

RE: Club FOX!
Crashed and destroyed a Goldberg Chipmunk last month. It was flying with a Fox .74. As a result of the crash the muffler mounting broke in two places and I had to order a upper crankcase. I ordered the new Fox carb also. I broke it down today and thought I’d post my impressions. This is a two needle carb. It has conventional rotating body with cam action. High speed needle is a short, fat assembly, sealed with an O ring. The needle has a shroud that seals around the outside of an O ring. The grip on the needle is deeply scored. The O ring gives a satisfying ‘break’ when the needle is first rotated and nice friction as you turn it. One can adjust the high speed with your thumb and index finger or use a #4 size hex wrench. That is very nice. One can hide the entire needle under the cowl and still get positive engagement of the needle with a hex wrench. I like! The low speed needle is also sealed with an O ring and actuated with the same hex wrench. Great feature. Nearly all low speed needles are actuated with a small slotted screwdriver and impossible to adjust with engine running. When I close off the air inlet and outlet of the carb and blow through the fuel inlet nipple I cannot hear or feel any air escaping. Compared to the leaky high speed needles on the older MK two needle carbs and the EZ carb, this is a great improvement. I run a MK two needle carb on a Fox 50, it constantly drips fuel at the high speed needle. Disassembly shows a small part count, just eight pieces. I like simple and clever, this carb is simple and clever. Throttle body Throttle barrel Low speed needle High speed needle Cam screw Fuel jet (2) Fuel jet retaining screws The throttle body is based on the EZ carb casting. I like the two screw flat mounting system that Fox has used since the sixties. Fox does not bother with effort to remove or smooth the flash from the cast. A idle stop screw is not provided. I never found use for that item. No casting defects were noted. The throttle barrel is made from three inseparable pieces; barrel, low speed needle and servo arm, plus the O ring. Nice fit and finish on this piece. It moves smoothly, being ground to the throttle body. A small concern is that one cannot adjust the servo arm. I tried to unscrew from the assembly, but it started to bend so I accepted its position. I do not recall adjusting the servo arm position on other carbs, I usually do that at the servo. The barrel orifice is 5/16� or a little better. I do not have a caliper to measure. A 5/16� drill bit is a loose fit but the 21/64� will not go. The MK and EZ carbs both have a 21/64� orifice. So a little smaller orifice on the new carb. I hope that helps, I think the EZ and MK orifices are too large for 40 to 50 size engines. Fox does not use a spring to take up play between the cam screw and groove. I really like the needles. The O rings seals and hex wrench actuation are valuable features. The low speed needle is made from a #4 socket head cap screw. A short smooth section near the head provides the seal against the o ring and a taper is machined into the end. I like it for ease of actuation with a hex wrench. It must also be cost effective, compared to the low speed needle on a Fox MK carb, just one machine operation. The high speed needle is made from two inseparable pieces; the #4 needle pressed or perhaps tightly screwed, into a finger grip and shroud. The machine work is nice. The fuel jet fits into a recess in the throttle body. The jet stands proud above the body and is held to the throttle body by two #2 slotted screws. The screws only press against the jet to the body with the shoulder of the head. I hate slotted screws on model aircraft, tolerate Phillips and love socket head screws. I replaced these with socket head cap screws. The fuel jet spray bar has a small hole on the bottom centered in the barrel orifice. As the barrel cams in and out the low speed needle restricts this hole. A long threaded fuel nipple completes the jet assembly. I removed my MK carb from my Fox 50 and mounted the new carb. The paper gasket used between the carb and engine ripped. Alas! Fox does not include a new gasket with the carb. They do include two Phillips head screws to mount it. Luckily I had a gasket in my parts box. Bolted it up, attached the clevis and presto it required no adjustments to servo travel at all. I hope this is a good omen for tomorrow’s test flights. Overall I am very impressed: O rings, needle actuation, appearance and feel all indicate a quality product. My only gripes: lack of gasket and those damn slotted screws. The new carb will get compared to the MK carb mounted on a Fox 50 powering a 3D Hanger 9 Tango. I am happy with the MK two needle carb, but I think its fuel draw is low. One has to run the thing rich, it leans out a lot during the flight or in vertical maneuvers. Typical slight rich on takeoff results in lean overheat during late flight vertical maneuvers. The big 12.25x3.75 APC prop does not generate a lot of rpm or the Fox muffler a lot of pressure. I hope the slightly smaller throttle barrel orifice will increase the fuel draw and reduce the lean out during the run. My other complaint with the MK carb is the leaking high speed needle. Outside of that the MK throttles well throughout the range and holds its needle settings. If I like the throttling of the new carb as much as the MK, the new carb will be a success in my opinion. On the 40-50 size Foxes, the EZ carbs also worked well. On the Fox 60s and 74s I found the upper mid range lean and modified the throttle barrel with a little filing to richen the engine at this range. I’ll be off to the field tomorrow, with the new carb, engine and aircraft ready to go. I’ll post my observations and opinions of flight test. I love the Fox documentation that came with the carb and other parts I received. Looks like it was written on an old reporter’s typewriter then copied a few times. The carb instruction is two lines describing where the initial needle setting should be and stating that this is likely rich. They also included a sheet with a list of new products and prices. Some of this is old news but listed in the Fox 50 BBRC. The 50 is my favorite Fox but long out of production. It would be great if it really is back in production. I ordered my parts from Fox’s website and it did not list the 50 BBRC. However, the website lists the gas powered 50. In a similar vein, the gas powered 50 is not on the paper list of new products. I swear if Fox just hired a newly minted marketing guy part time, I’d think there would be more at the flying fields. Meanwhile here are some pictures:
Posted on: 8/28/2010 8:31 PM by Author "badger5964" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9966020