RE: How much weight does a fibreglass finsh add compared to film?
I did a 1/3 scale Extra (94" wing) with glass/paint a few years ago and the entire finish added around 1.25 pounds. The fuse was already glass, so just primer and paint there. I used .56oz/yd cloth (very light stuff) and West Systems resin for all the flying surfaces. I remember reading what the advertised weight of monokote was per sq. yd, but I can't recall the number. I would guess it's a few oz. per yard though. Ben
Posted on: 10/28/2007 9:35 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6551617

Carden Cuda in the classifieds recently
Does anyone know anything about the Carden Cuda that was in the classified section a few months back? Was it sold, still available just not listed right now? I believe it was yellow/black/white. I know this is probably an unusual post, but I couldn't find a listing of closed classifieds older than a month. Thanks for any info! Ben
Posted on: 10/28/2007 4:12 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6550129

RE: Help with Sig Sukhoi
Thanks for the info, David! I figured it was fine to try a little back, but I wanted to either see it in print or hear from someone with experience. I didn't want to risk my new DA50's life for a little CG adjustment! Thanks again! Ben
Posted on: 6/10/2007 2:35 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5969016

Help with Sig Sukhoi
Anyone have a manual for the Sig Sukhoi ARF? I need to find out what the recommended range is for the CG. Tower's site shows 4.75" from the leading edge, but I'd like to find out if the manual specifies a range around that number. I've flown the model at 4.75" and it was fine, but after my engine swap I'm sitting close to 5" and don't want to move things around if I don't need to. Thanks for any info! Ben
Posted on: 6/10/2007 11:13 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5968485

RE: Contact info for US Engines
Excellent, I'll see if they have what I need. Thanks for the fast reply! Ben
Posted on: 5/27/2007 10:34 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5907571

Contact info for US Engines
Does anyone know how to contact US Engines? Either the manufacturer direct or someplace to get parts for a US 41cc. Thanks! Ben
Posted on: 5/27/2007 10:20 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5907537

RE: Trying to find an anodized wing tube
Wander how I missed the darn ano'd tubes at TNT? Cutting down the 48" tube is just the ticket, thanks for tips! I think an anodized tube will be better than carbon for this plane on account of the glass sockets. I'm not very concerned with shaving a few ounces at this point, but I gave a carbon tube some thought. On the retaining ideas; I agree, drilling is a bad plan. Right now I have a ply block glued and zip-tied to the fuse socket and the center is drilled/tapped for a 1/4-20 nylon bolt. The bolt just threads through the ply block and snugs against the tube. Once the wing panels are in place there's almost no movement available anyway, but I'm working on something a little fancier. If I ever get a chance to try finish and try it, I'll post some pics. Thanks for all the tips! Ben
Posted on: 5/15/2005 5:02 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2977451

RE: Trying to find an anodized wing tube
The reason I'm looking for an anodized tube is that the wing and fuse sockets in my plane are fiberglass and they grind away at the tube making black crud all over it. Anything I've had with phenolic paper sockets never did this. An anodized aluminum surface has a very hard aluminum oxide layer that is about a billion times more wear resistent than an untreated AL surface. I have a crude method of fixing the wing tube centered in the fuse socket, but I'm working on something better. I'm gonna take some measurements and see if I think a 36" tube will still be suitable. Probaby call 3W and see what they think of that idea as well. Thanks, Ben
Posted on: 5/15/2005 12:21 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2976751

Trying to find an anodized wing tube
Does anyone know where I can find an anodized wing tube measuring 1.25"OD with 0.035-0.040"wall thickness and 38" length? Everything I've found (gator RC, TNT) with the diameter and wall I need is only available in 36" length. I'm going to call them both tomorrow and see about custom lengths, but I doubt they'll be willing/able to do that. Could I safely run a 36" wing tube in place of the original 38" one on a 1/3 scale Extra? Another option would be to send my tube to be anodized, but I don't know where. If anyone knows of a shop that can do it, please let me know. Thanks! Ben
Posted on: 5/15/2005 8:17 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2976174

RE: XCELL GASSER TWITCHY TAIL
There's a good chance it's a motor tuning issue. You want to make sure you're not lean during break-in (or ever for that matter), but you don't want to be excessively rich. You will notice a small amount of tail movement from even a perfectly tuned gasser, but it should never be more than just noticeable. Just make sure the engine is broke in properly and then start tuning it til the tail is as good as you can get it. If the tail twitching seems more like an interference issue, make sure you go over the ignition system to eliminate that possiblity. I had a problem with a loose spark plug cap giving me glitches before. Ben
Posted on: 5/7/2005 5:46 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2952944

RE: Old battery disposal
Thanks for the informations, guys. I'll start carting them to radio shack a few packs at a time. Ben
Posted on: 3/23/2005 1:59 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2797105

Old battery disposal
I have a box full of old batteries and I was wandering what to do with them? Most are Nicd & Nimh, and I'd like to do something besides throw them in the trash. Do automotive stores collect those types of batteries? Any other places to look into? Thanks, Ben
Posted on: 3/19/2005 9:33 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2781672

RE: Quick 30 Pro C
The quick 30 is a decent machine that will fly as good as most other 30's. It's pretty easy to assemble, but the instructions aren't very helpful, so don't hesitate to ask for help. It does weigh a ton and it gets scary to fly aerobatics with an OS.32. Down the road, you may consider running a 50 (or start off that way if you haven't bought an engine yet). Parts aren't terribly expensive and I never had trouble dealing with HHI (even with warranty type problems). Ben
Posted on: 12/24/2004 10:49 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2464725

RE: Cold Storage?
Thanks for the suggestions! I'm gonna go ahead and remove the batteries and probably wrap them in plastic to keep the dust out. The floor of my storage building is concrete so I'll put them up on some shelves. I'll probably only keep them stored for a month or two, I just need to free up some space to work on other projects. Ben
Posted on: 12/23/2004 7:56 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2461034

Cold Storage?
Do you guys have any suggestions for storing planes, etc. in an unheated building? I normally keep all my models and gear in my heated garage, but I need to open up some space and I'm thinking of moving a few to my storage building. The temps here don't usually fall below 20F and I was thinking of just removing the batteries for storage. Are there any other things I need to consider (besides moving to a warmer climate, which I plan on doing soon)? Thanks, Ben
Posted on: 12/22/2004 9:37 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2457659

Don's Hobby Shop
I just wanted to let everyone know that Don's Hobby Shop is a great place to deal with. I've ordered from them a number of times and they are helpful, friendly and fast. Great selection of giant scale equipment and hard-to-find items. I placed an order yesterday afternoon and it was delivered first thing this morning! Not bad for standard shipping from KS to PA. Fine print: I'm not affiliated with Don's Hobby Shop in any way, just a satisfied customer. Thanks, Ben
Posted on: 11/18/2004 9:22 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2354958

RE: TNT XCELL
Looks like Rick's carries some T&T xcell parts. Might try them. http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=heli&Category_Code=Xcell_Upgrades Ben
Posted on: 11/14/2004 10:14 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2345043

RE: holes in a mold
Mike, Thanks for the info and pics. I think your idea with your stabilator will work for what I'm doing. Same situation except I'll need to release the tube from the molds; initially, and then from each part produced. Being that the molds aren't gonna take much time to produce, I'll just give it a try and see what happens. If not, I'll just have to get more creative. Thanks again! Ben
Posted on: 11/8/2004 10:20 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2328675

holes in a mold
Sorry if my thread title doesn't make much sense, I could think of a better way to word it. Anyway, I have a question about producing a fairly simple mold that would produce parts with 2 holes through them. Sort of like a fuselage with a wing tube hole, but rather than cutting the hole after the parts are produced I would like to pull parts with the proper size hole in a reinforced area. I was thinking about making the mold with provisions for a removeable aluminum tube. My only real concern would be removing the tube from the finished part. With wax/PVA, would you be able to slide the tube out of a cured part? I also thought about using a phenolic tube (or even aluminum) with the actual ID that I need and leaving it in the finished part, but I'd rather not do it that way. The hole would be about 10mm in diameter and contact the layup for about a 25mm length. I haven't made too many molds and never needed one like this, so if I sound like a novice; I am one. Thanks for any suggestions! Ben
Posted on: 11/7/2004 9:30 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2325624

RE: New giant underway
Greg, Awesome project! That's the first giant scale heli I've seen that didn't use turbine mechanics. Good luck with it! Ben
Posted on: 11/6/2004 12:23 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2322180

RE: New to helis.
None of the 6 channel radios I've seen (which isn't all of them) have the programming flexibilty that you really need for helis. I would recommend either the Futaba 9C or JR 8103. It isn't so much that more channels are needed, but the programming features of these radios make everything alot easier. Definitly get the heli version of whatever radio you choose. Ben
Posted on: 11/3/2004 6:10 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2314753

RE: Heli for Saito 100 4 stroke????
I have a 4-stroke conversion for the xcell SE and it works great for general sport flying. I didn't do anything but simple aerobatics with it before unsuccessfully trying to squeeze it into a scale fuse, but I thought it was pretty neat. I don't think the saito idea would be practical for any of the reasons already mentioned, but running a 4-stroke specifically made for helis (the YS.91ACH in my case) works fine. It all depends on the type of flying you want to do. For 3D, a 4-stroke heli loses out on the power-weight ratio. For "casual" flying, the 4-stroke sounds great and get better gas mileage. I don't think any of the 4-stroke designs are still available new, but my SE conversion is in the classifieds if anyone wants to give it a try[;)]. I'd keep running it, but I don't have another set of mechanics at the moment. Ben
Posted on: 10/31/2004 9:41 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2305718

RE: Futaba Gy401 plug on JR receiver
Very carefully trim off the alignment tab on the futaba connectors and they will plug into JR receivers. It should still only plug in one way (the correct way), but it's been a while since I've worked on any JR stuff so just make sure the wire colors are correct when you plug it in. On futaba, the signal wire is white and on JR the signal wire is light orange I think. Ben
Posted on: 10/29/2004 9:45 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2300625

RE: Micro Turbines the size of coat buttons!
There was a small segment on the science channel the other day about these. Not much info, but they showed some of the components and they were tiny! Ben
Posted on: 10/19/2004 3:33 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Electric Indoor & Micro RC Flight"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2268374

RE: Space Ship One does it AGAIN!!!
Did any of you see the Discovery channel program last night about the SpaceShipOne project? At the end of the show there was someone flying a little RC version of it. Probably be an ARF of SpaceShipOne available by the end of the week. Ben
Posted on: 10/4/2004 1:49 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Airplanes - Full Scale"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2225224

RE: 3/4 stick hover
Glad you got it worked out. Now, just make sure you're in idle-up before you try any loops! Ben
Posted on: 10/2/2004 3:43 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2220447

RE: 3/4 stick hover
Having a 3/4 stick hover in normal mode will allow you to switch between normal and idle-up anywhere above half stick without dropping altitude. If you have your normal mode curves set for a 1/2 stick hover, then at 1/2 stick you are around +5 degrees of pitch and about 50% throttle. Now, your idle-up curves are set for 3/4 stick hover which means 0 degrees of pitch at 1/2 stick and less than 50% throttle. Doesn't take long to see that if you're in a normal mode hover and switch to idle-up you'll instantly go from +5 degrees and 50% throttle to 0 degrees and less than 50% throttle. Without instantly raising the left stick, your heli's gonna drop. Now for setting the throttle curve: Make your adjustments to the linkages in normal mode. Set the left stick at center (half stick) and make sure your curves (throttle and pitch) are at 50% in the transmitter. The throttle linkage at that point should be at 90 deg. to the servo arm and the arm on your carb. The carb should be 50% open. Your collective pitch should be set to 0 deg. at this point by adjusting the linkages to the head. Now you can set the pitch curve to +/- whatever for normal mode by moving the stick to the top and bottom and adjusting the corrosponding values in the transmitter. For a 5 point curve, you're pitch curve should be fairly linear and go from 0deg. at center stick, +5 deg. at 3/4 stick, and +9 or 10 deg. at high stick. The bottom half is similar, but you may not want -10 deg. at low stick in normal mode. You might go -2 deg. at 1/4 stick, and -4 deg. at low stick. Now you set the throttle curve for normal mode remembering that you've already set the linkage properly, so all adjustments will be made in the transmitter. Your hover point is 3/4 stick, so the throttle curve point at 3/4 stick should be about %50 in the transmitter. High stick should be approaching %100, but you will need some flight testing to better determine the throttle opening required at full collective. Now, at half stick you have 0deg of pitch and very little load on the engine, so your throttle curve point for half stick might be about 30%. Low stick in normal mode is where you want a good idle, so set it idealy at 0 in the transmitter, but may have to be about %5. The point for 1/4 stick should be about half way between low and 1/2 positions. In this case, %15 to %17 at 1/4 stick. Setting the idle up is easy now (providing you want to start out with the same headspeed in both modes). There are no linkage adjustments to be made, just points on the curves. The pitch curve in idle-up is the same as normal from 1/2 stick to full stick. 0deg. at center stick, +5 deg. at 3/4 stick, and +10 at high stick. Below half stick, you want -5deg at 1/4 stick and -10 deg. at low stick. Done here. The throttle curve in idle-up is the same as normal from 1/2 stick to full stick. %30 at center stick, %50 at 3/4 stick, and %100 at high stick. Below half stick, you want %50 at 1/4 stick, and %100 at low stick. Done here. Now your curves look like this: Normal mode low stick = idle and -4deg. 1/4 stick = %15 and -2 deg. 1/2 stick = %30 and 0 deg. 3/4 stick = %50 and +5 deg. full stick = %100 and +10 deg Idle up mode low stick = %100 and -10 deg. 1/4 stick = %50 and -5 deg. 1/2 stick = %30 and 0 deg. 3/4 stick = %50 and +5 deg. full stick = %100 and +10 deg. Now you can spool up, lift off, and hover in normal mode then switch to idle-up in a hover and fly off into FF, aerobatics, whatever. Ben
Posted on: 10/2/2004 10:03 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "RC Helicopter General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2219865

RE: New to Helicopters
DjBac, There are alot of helis and equipment out there that will work fine for learning. Each with some good features and not so good features. If you're planning on building your own (which I highly recommend), you might try and find some local heli guys and see what they are flying. That way you'll have someone nearby with first hand experience with your model. Most folks have had a raptor (or at least it seems like they have) so finding help is pretty easy. You can find info about any model online, but it's alot easier for someone to sit down with you and answer questions. Especially when you're just getting started. The radio equipment you choose depends on the size of the heli you're flying. If you decide on a 50/60 size heli, you'll need stronger servos and a better gyro than if you're flying a 30 size. The brand of radio equipment isn't a critical decision, just stick with what you're familiar with. You should; however, get the best radio gear that you can afford. Any more, I would say that a Futaba 9C or JR 8103 transmitter would be the minimum. The 6/7 channel radios I've seen (and that I've had) are just too limited on programming and make setup more difficult. Futaba gyros have worked good for me and I like the GY401 best for it's ease of setup and excellent performance. Servos; like I said, depend on the model. Futaba 9202's work great for most any heli, but I've used standard servos on 30 size helis with no problem. If you choose a heli with CCPM controls, then more accurate servos are required (coreless motor and maybe even digital). The tail rotor servo will need to be suited to your gyro and the 401 can be bought with the 9254 digital servo. Do some searches on the models you're interested in and see what people have to say about them. Once you've chosen a heli you can start to pick radio equipment. Good luck! Ben
Posted on: 10/1/2004 10:03 AM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "RC Helicopter Beginners Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2217304

RE: Overspray... Ahhhhhh!!!!
If it's just paint overspray on film covering, then detailing clay will probably do the trick. You can get detailing clay (yes it's just a bar of clay) at autozone or any other auto store. Get a spray bottle of quick detailer spray to use with the clay (I think Mother's actually sells a kit that comes with clay and detailing spray). Not cheap, but requires very little effort and won't affect the surface like chemicals will. This stuff is awesome for getting stuck on crud off your cars' clearcoat too. Hope it helps, Ben
Posted on: 9/30/2004 11:14 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2216545

RE: Lets see your Flite Metaled Warbirds Jets too!
I used FliteMetal on my Midwest AT6 and really like the finish. I didn't find it difficult to work with, just took a little getting used to. The results are worth the effort, IMO. Here's some finished pics. Ben
Posted on: 9/30/2004 1:54 PM by Author "bdphil" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=2215111