RE: A123 Question
If you want an interesting read on A123's check out Hangtimes Hobbies. Steve has some great information. http://www.hangtimes.com/index.html
Posted on: 8/23/2012 8:26 AM by Author "Bent Nail" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11203363

RE: JC 28cc exchange program
<![if gte mso 9]> <![endif]><![if gte mso 9]> <![endif]><![if gte mso 10]><![endif]> Well Milton it is good to see you up and around. For a while, I thought your e-mail and telephone were suffering from heat <![if gte mso 9]> <![endif]><![if gte mso 9]> <![endif]><![if gte mso 10]><![endif]>exhaustion. Please let me know about the 106. John
Posted on: 7/9/2012 9:10 AM by Author "Bent Nail" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11148704

RE: A123's and the Suer Reg
Thanks Robert that helps make my decision more informative. John
Posted on: 4/15/2011 11:49 AM by Author "Bent Nail" in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10464575

RE: A123's and the Suer Reg
Thanks Robert for the quick reply. I will make a broad assumption that you do not think it is a good idea to 6.6 volts into the servos. Also, 'the output will drop' that does not meen the Servos will quit, they will just get less voltage. Thanks John
Posted on: 4/15/2011 10:38 AM by Author "Bent Nail" in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10464454

A123's and the Suer Reg
<![if gte mso 9]> Normal 0 false false false EN-US X-NONE <w:LidThemeComplexscript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexscript> MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 <![endif]><![if gte mso 9]> <![endif]><![if gte mso 10]><![endif]> Hi Robert, the receiver NICADs for my 1/3 L5 have finally given up after 5 years O well. I have decided to try A123’s. I have the Smart-Fly Power Expander Pro and Super Reg. Since I was using NICAD’s the Super Reg has been comfortably stored in its box (I had a bad experience with LiPoly). I was wondering about the effects of the 6.6 volts on my HiTech 645M (control surfaces) and smaller servos (for engine also rated 6.0 volts). I fully understand that you do not know the condition of my servos but I am asking the question in general. I can use the SuperReg to reduce the voltage but is it necesssary. I did read the information on the Power Expander and noted that A123’s can be plugged in directly. I also use the fail-safe switch. Thanks John M.
Posted on: 4/15/2011 9:20 AM by Author "Bent Nail" in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10464298

RE: Anybody go to Indy RC World in Garland,Texas?
I go there every chance I get. With their oval being on Thursday I doubt I will get to go any more.
Posted on: 1/4/2011 11:21 PM by Author "bent-fender" in the forum "RC Regional Racers & Bashers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10240562

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
So after the break-in was finished I tunned the LRP and let it rip today. Holly CRAP!!! I am still in shock. This truggy hauls a$$, and the .28 is a massive overkill. At half throttle the tires break loose on any surface. The St-1 Pro comes with a 13T clutch bell and runs out in a short distance. I was running up and down the dyke by the river and spared no mercy with the throttle. The clay dyke is about 20 feet tall and the jumps I pulled off where pretty epic. I landed on the roof a few times broke the wing mount and trashed the body. No serious damage though. The ground is frozen and there is no snow yet here so the truck took some very hard landings. I am very happy with thing so far. Definatly a differnement experence compared to a monster truck. I liked my Savage but the TVP design while innovative makes it a pain to work on the truck. The pan chassis layout makes service and cleaning much easier. I am really happy with the engine and pipe combo. The LRP was a bear to start durring break-in because the feul mixture was as rich as I could get it. After I got it leaned out it was a good starting engine and has a fantastic powerband. It runs as if it is "on pipe" all the time, it has great torque off the line and flat out screams on the high end. I have a few issues to resolve though. First my clutch bell is blue it got so hot. I may need to put lighter springs in it, or try aluminum shoes. I have never burnt a clutch like that before any suggestions as to what I should use? Second my standard digital servo isn't cutting it for breaks. Is there trick to adjusting the breaks to get the best grab fromt he linkage or do I need a high torque servo there as well?
Posted on: 11/21/2010 2:11 AM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10148865

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
What you are seeing is from the camera flash. No sealant on the carburator in that picture. I generally use Permatex Ultra Black on Nitro engines. You can get it at any auto parts store. It is pretty fuel and solvent resistant and has a good temperature range. The other option I have considered is Honda Bond 4, its for sealing motorcycle engine cases and would do a fanatsitc job anywhere on a nitro engine. I haven't tried it but I suspect it would do a great job as it is made to bond to aluminum. I finished my paint job on the ST-1 Pro today. It turned out pretty well except for one nastly little problem. The can I had labeled as Pactra Thinner was a differnt solvent ( I think it was MEK or something similar) and damaged the lexan. It left cracks all over the place on the front where I used it to wype up some overspray. I guess I will have to try another body later on. I have got enough paint left but I need the right thinner. This one dosen't look too bad though and will do for a basher body. Like I said I am not the best painter, but it looks alright. My wheels and trires showed up too. The Badlands tires are really nice, and the foams that come with them are very firm. The overall look of the truck turned out well and I forgot how much fun it is to build these from parts. I will start the break-in on the engine tomorrow. There are alot of reviews on this truck so I won't get into perfomace or tunning stuff.
Posted on: 11/14/2010 1:11 AM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10133987

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
I got another package in the mail today with more shiny new parts. My engine and pipe are now in the truck but it was not a perfect fit by any means. The motor mounts were too short for the LRP so engine's back plate hit the pan. I guess thats to be expected as most people would have a bump start engine and want it mounted as low as possible to keep the roll center down. I had to drill out some collars to use as spacers under the engine. The fix worked just fine, the only issue that resulted was that the carburator was a bit high for the throttle linkage so I had to put a bend in it. The clutch and air filter that Thunder Tiger includes fit with no issues and completed what is looking like one bad ass truck. I can't wait to break this thing in. I also started roughly trimming the body. I should get it painted this weekend if all goes well. I also noticed I had good access to the backside of the engine so after I get it broken in I will install an in-line style Tiger Drive starter. I still am waiting on my bashing tires and spare wing to match my paint job. I am going to use a combination of Indy Silver, Black, and Racing Orange. I am not a very talented painter so it will be a pretty simple paint job. One thing to note it that the body on this truck is one of the thinnest i have ever seen. I am sure it is not the most rugged one ever made, but it will do for now.
Posted on: 11/11/2010 10:12 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10130132

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
I got a box in the mail today with a couple of shiny new parts. I am making a significant upgrade to the kit by installing the aluminum center diff mounts. This seemed like a worth while upgrade and the whole piont of building a kit is to put it together the way you want to. The center mount is much more rigid than the two piece plastic setup that came stock. I also forgot to show the shrink wrap I used to secure my CV boot's. I used small sections of it to keep the boot from slipping off the jount. I did this on all 6 joints. I have the wheels on and the engine mounts installed and finally the bulk of the assembly work is done. I set up my Futaba 3PM-2.4 Ghz transmitter after installing the reciever and a 5 cell hump pack. This is the first surface RC that I will be using a 2.4Ghz radio and digital servos with and I am massively impressed the progress in radios over the last few years. I managed to make a trade for a very nice used futaba 3 channel and 2 recivers so I can also run the same radio gear in my boat. I have also ordered an extra set of wheels, pro-line badlands tires and some extra glow plugs. My engine and pipe are on thier way and I should have a brand new running RC soon.
Posted on: 11/9/2010 11:58 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10125921

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
I bought my engine yesterday. I decided to go with the LRP mainly becasue of price. The bang for the buck is hard to beat. I bought the LRP .28 Spec 3 and a Jammin JP-4 pipe together for $220 with free shipping from RC Speed Zone. Thats a pretty good deal and a hard one to turn down. I have a few things left on the truck build and could be ready to break it in and go for a test drive by next weekend. I will post the completion of the truck as I work on it.
Posted on: 11/8/2010 10:04 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10123600

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
Thank you for the suggestion. I still haven't bought an engine yet. Continuing with the build I installed the servos and radio box as well as the rear wing frame and the fuel tank. The St-1 Pro has a very stout rear wing frame and a nice overall layout of compopnents on the chassis. The Fuel tank has a spash guard and a drain tube that lets spilled fuel run off the top of the tank and on to the ground. I also got my shocks together, Hobbico is going to send me a whole set of front shocks under warranty so I bought the shafts to build the originals and will keep the replacements as spares. I also am taking all the Cv shafts apart and re-applying lok-tite to the pin set screws. I don't trust any factory assembled CV's and would rather be at fault myself if they come apart. I am also going to try some Cv boots and see how well they work. On a side note I am impressed with how O'Donnell solves the problem of loose CV parts.... by getting rid of the CV parts! Universal joints are a bit more rugged IMO.
Posted on: 11/4/2010 11:06 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10116263

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
I spent some time today working on the control arms and drives. The front of the ST-1 is very similar to a Mugen. The pivot balls have a coated aluminum pall pinned to hardened steel bolt. The balls are captured with a nylon cap and large set screw. The camber and front tracking width are adusted by turning the pivot balls in and out of the control arms. The caster angle is adjusted with shims on the upper control arm pin. The control arms on this truck are massive, and for some strange reason Thunder Tiger provides the ability to run 8 shocks. The CV shafts have a tapper on them from the dog bone end to the CV joint. This is a method of reducing the shaft twist without adding too much wieght to the shaft. The attention to detail so far on the kit has been impressive. One feature I like about the ST-1 is that it has a substantial front bumber, something that will be put to the test bashing around this winter. Most of the other kits look more like buggies in that respect, I suppose to a hardcore racer a bumper is just extra weight to carry around. The control arm pins are captured by steel plates in the front and aluminum blocks in the rear. Further adjustments to camber can be made buy using different bushings for the control arm pins, or you can use different mounts alltogether. The kit comes with 10 different mounting blocks for the front and rear, several pairs of offset bushings and some shims for the control arm pins. The redundant adjustability doesn't make sense to me. Why have three different methods to adjust camber and toe on each wheel? Seems to me that Thunder Tiger had one goal in mind here.... Overkill.
Posted on: 10/31/2010 9:58 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10107339

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
I started on the chassis assembly today. The center diff shows off the composite brake pads and more fancy carbon fiber. The main plate is 7075 Aluminum and the control arm pins are held in very stout aluminum blocks. These toe blocks can be changed out to change the angle the control arms sit with respect to the frame centerline. There is a whole set of them included in the kit, though only the initial sizes are made form red annodized aluminum. I didn't install the center CV shafts for a reason. I'll elaborate more on that later.
Posted on: 10/31/2010 9:56 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10105740

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
I got few more things done today. I took out all the carbon fiber pieces and sealed the edges with CA glue. I like to use glue with a brush in it for gluing the tires and the brush also makes this job easy. I said in an earlier post that I liked parts quality of this kit and as you can see the carbon fiber parts are practically a work of art. The shock towers are nearly 3/16" thick and the machining is beautiful. I still am not entirely sure why most manufactureres reccommend sealing CF parts, I only assume it's to prevent de-lamination or splinters from breaking off. I selaed all machined edges, and faces, but not bolt holes as they are captured by a fastener. Next I assembled the 4-bar steering setup and servo saver. It helps to note which side of the tie-rod is which and install them in the same oreintation everywhere. That way the turn buckles will adjust the same way when turned in the same direction. Its one of those details that makes adjusting easier expecially if you race. I use a caliper to keep the lengths equal too.
Posted on: 10/30/2010 1:21 AM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10103758

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
Next are the differntial housings. Any time a ring and pinion gear run together the clearence is important. The differntial needs to be shimmed to one side or the other so the "lash" is correct. Too tight or too loose and the gear will wear and fail early. This is a trial and error process by feel. You also have t0 torque up the housing bolts becasue that will affect the clearence, so it can take a bit of time to get it right. You can see the shims on the left side of the diff in the close-up picture. After I get the shims figured out I coat the gear faces in synthetic bearing grease (the red stuff) before final assembly. Bevel cut gears should have some lubrication, where as straight cut don't always need it.
Posted on: 10/30/2010 1:10 AM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10103767

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
Put the differentials together today. Typical for these Truggies they are way overbuilt kind of like a buggy on steroids. This weeked I should have some time to realy get into the build.
Posted on: 10/28/2010 10:22 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10101265

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
Thunder tiger service responded to my e-mail in just a few minutes, I have to contact Hobbico for service in the US. Hobbico responded to me this morning and they will send me the parts when they find them. They are still handling the inventory change over from ACE Hobby. Thats good news. On with the build then...
Posted on: 10/28/2010 10:06 AM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10099773

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
So after a short wait my kit showed up in the mail. I had to put it away for a few days becasue I didn't have time to work on it. Tonight I decided to start on something small so I took the parts bags out witht the shocks and put them together.... One small problem in the picture you will see the rear shocks are all fine and dandy but the front shafts are not the same length. It appears I got three rear shafts and one front. [:@] this sucks! So I sent TT an e-mail. These are available and pretty cheap so it may be faster to just buy them, but as I am not in a hurry and can continue building I will see how TT handles this little oops. Other than that blunder I really like what I see in the kit, the parts quality is as good as any 1/8th scale buggy I have seen and the instruction manual is by far and away the best I have ever had with any RC car. I will keep this thread updated as the build progresses. Thare is a huge forum for the ST-1 on RC Universe but not one for the build up of the kit version.
Posted on: 10/27/2010 11:25 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10099088

Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
Hello, I am building a Truggy Kit. Before I get into the Q and A I will give bit of back ground. Where I live the LHS has folded up and the next closest one is an hour away. There is no race club anymore. I used to race 1/8 buggies a long time ago. I had a TT Mirage with a stock pro BR21 engine and when set up right it was competative against some very expensive machines. After I quit racing a got a Savage and had that for the last 4 to 5 years or so. I had a ton fun with it, but I wanted to get into something a little more like the buggy I used to race. These Truggies are the prefect mesh between buggies and MT's and I looked around at quite few before I jumped on a Thunder Tiger ST-1 Pro kit. I looked at Kyosho, Ofna, and AE but I liked the TT design and they have genrally always made a pretty good product so I bought it. I wanted a kit because half the time you have to tear down a RTR and put it back together to get it set up right anyway. With a kit you get the set-up right the first time (or at least get closer to it). Since I have no parts locally it really dosen't matter what I buy, I have to buy everything online. So I have a TT ST-1 Pro, and there is a ton of info on the ST-1's as they have been around for a while. I have researched and decided on shock and diff oils, etc. But the engine has me wondering. Intially I have set my sights on an LRP .28 spec 3 as its cheap and makes pretty insane power and I figured on matching it with a Jammin JP-4 pipe. There a lot of reviews and comments on this engine so it looks like a good choice. So my question is this, is an engine like the LRP really nessecary? Will it do more harm than good, making the truggy harder to drive and casuing more driveline damage? Is .21 still a better choice even for just messing around? I remember that while the "hot engines" were faster than my buggy, it was tires and won races not power. Not to mention reliability and above all else the driver . And I never in 3 years of racing broke a driveline part on my Mirage. Mabey I was just lucky too. I went through piles of rims and tires and wings etc, but never broke anything important. All I ever did in the Mains was pull in and fuel up. This ST-1 kit is really nice and I will have a ton of fun with it either way I am sure. But what do you guys think? Jump on the bandwagon with a crazy .28 or put a .21 in. Like an OS or even TT engine? Mabey even an Ofna Hyper or an SH .21. I will be running in all kinds of terrain, gravel roads, a moto-cross track, snow (lots of snow) and general off road bashing. No racing though. My Shock oil will be 40 wt all around and the diffs will be 5k, 10k, 3k which seems to be in the ball park. Any suggestions here? Also for genreal off raod mayhem what do you guys run for tires? Good tires for racing gerneally don't last when you are just messign around. What should I look at?
Posted on: 10/27/2010 11:08 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10061984

RE: HIKO 400 and 2801 PRO tx/rx... getting back into the hobby
This heli is turing out to be a pretty good machine so far. I have upgraded the cyclic servos the Hitec 65MG's and the difference is amazing. Unfortunatly Walkera dose not use a standard micro servo size so I had to make some modifications to mount the Hitec's. It wasn't very hard to do and for the $90 the servos cost it was well worth the time and money. The main rotor feels much more solid than it did before and the heli is very smooth in flight now.
Posted on: 10/16/2010 12:30 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10072362

RE: Hyper St Truggy
No they wont under normal acceleration becasue they have a center differential. When the truck begins to lift the front wheels under heavy acceleration the center differential "unloads" and the front tires will spin and power is transfered to the front axle form he rear. If you have a two speed that took the place of the center differntial then the truck could wheelie. This is a fundamental difference between a monster truck and a truggy.
Posted on: 10/16/2010 11:45 AM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10072284

RE: Truggy kit build up... ST-1 PRO
I personally love OS engines, you wouldn't have to pull my arm very hard to buy one. I was looking at the OS .30vg but that to me isn't going to produce the rpms like a smaller motor, I would guess it is more for the MT crowd. Any one run that engine? The .21 vsepc would be the motor of choice if I were racing or a Nova Rossi, but I don't need to spend that much on a motor just to mess around with. If I got a LRP I would probably put a tiger drive on it. I have a bump starter but I converted it to a belt drive for my boat. I also have two 12v batteries hooked up because the boat needs 24 volts to turn over the .46 marine engine. So I would need another bump box if the truggy engine needed one. So for truggies what is the tire size standard? I know they are not 40 serries, so are they a MT tire or something differnt?
Posted on: 10/11/2010 9:36 PM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Truggy"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10062896

Thunder Tiger Owns Associated???
Apparently Thunder Tiger owns Associated Electronics. I though they made the LRP engines for AE, but apprently they own the whole company. They own Sky Hobby and Thunder tiger also manufactures Dentist drills too. Who new? Anyways since ACE hobby has folded up I was curious who is supporting thier products right now, and it appears they are in a transition and no onw really knows what is going on. So those of us with TT planes and cars are just going to have to sit tight. http://www.thundertiger.net/
Posted on: 10/7/2010 11:46 AM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "RC Car General Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10053718

HIKO 400 and 2801 PRO tx/rx... getting back into the hobby
Hello, I have not had to post in forum for RC planes or helicopters for a long time. Infact I haven't flown a plane in 5 years or so and am pretty green heli pilot. But recently I was pondering over all the amazing brushless electric heli's out there today and decided to pull the trigger on one. I choose the 400 to 500 size range so I could fly in light wind outside. Also the bigger the rotor diemeter generally means a more stable helicopter. CP was the only way to go as far as I am concerned. I have someverry limited stick time on TT Raptor and that was a while ago. I understand the principles of flying a heli, I need some serious practice though. I was looking at the Walkera 60b, and found lots of info on the kit and mostly good reviews. I then found the HIKO 400, which is a bit of an upgraded 60 model. Carbon fiber chasis, a new metal rotor head design and the 8 channel radio gear. It also has a little beefer servos and the reviews on the Gyro walker uses were solid. So I said to myslef "huh, wonder it I can fly that thing?..." Well yeah, I can actually fly it. I am on my 8th flight or so and I am getting a handle on it. My last flight I had much more controled hovers and was able to do some simple directional flying. So it looks like a good way to dive back in the hobby. I like the fact that I can take the thing out in my back yard and fly around and not bother my neighbors. Gas helis are tons of fun but I never had the time to pack up all the gear and go somewhere to fly. Thats why i haven't had a plane since I started college. But with these new electric heli's you can fly damn near any where, anytime. I am loving that idea. The HIKO must be a new kit because there isn't much info on it. Mechanically I think its a great machine. I like the simplicity of the main rotor design. I am sure it is probably not the most high performance rotor head out there but it is a piece of cake to set up. It provides +/- 10 degress of blade pitch with no problems which is WAY more than I need at this point. Initially the swash plate and linkages were assembled pretty well, buy there were few things I snugged up. The fly bar needed some adjusting too. Nothing out of the norm for an RTR kit. . No complaints on power either. The 30 amp brushless powertrain is fantastic. I am astonished at the power these electric heli's have, and the torque is rediculous, which makes flying quite a bit different than a nitro. Also the battery life is fantastic. Walkera supplies this with 3 cell 30c 2200mah li-po and I have gotten 12 minute flights before the Low Voltage Cutoff. Mind you I am just basically hovering around but I can't believe capability these things have. I was probaly most sceptical of the radio gear that came the heli. At this point the 2810 Pro TX/RX combo is just fine. Infact I have no complaints at all. I can set up the flight modes, adjust rates and curves, and have no connectivity issues as of yet. So I give it a passing grade so far. The servos on the other hand I don't think will cut it. The tail rotor servo is fine and I will probalby leave that alone. But the three cyclic servos are a bit too sloppy for my liking. They have plenty of torque but they have too much play and I think are causing some of the drifting and bobing I get when flying. With the motor disconnected and the heli and TX powered on I can wiggle the swash plate and 90% of all the play is in the servos. I am looking a replacing them with a Hitec's or Futaba's. Anyone with suggestions here please speak up! Over all I am really impressed. The heli flys well, and dosen't have any nasty tendancies. The gyro works very well which lets me focus more on cyclic control. I am clearly the weak link in the system at this point. I kind of jumped in the deep end of the pool but I knew the learning curve would be steep. Anyway this helicopter for me is a great machine to learn on. With regular flights and some simultor time I may just become as good as a beginner someday. :) I haven't managed to break anything yet either which I guess is just dumb luck. I have had a few hairy landings but I always manage to keep the rotor blades out of the grass. I have broken a few 1/4" dowels I use for my traing gear but those are plentiful and cheap. I have been taking things very slow too, and I don't expect to be pulling off tic toc's and reverse inverted figure eights any time soon. Just putting around the yard is enough for me right now. I bought another battery and decent charger, a spare set of main rotor blades, tail blades and landing skid if and when I need them. No parts are available for this model yet, at all ...anywhere. But many parts are comon to the 60b. I guess this post got longer than I expected. But being as this is a new kit ans there isn't much info out there I figugured it was worth starting a thread. The link below covers the basics on this kit. I can take pictures too if anyone is interested. http://www.rc711.com/shop/24g-walkera-hiko400-aluminum-brushless-edition-8ch-wk2801pro-transmitter-rtf-combo-for-intermediate-p-3323.html
Posted on: 9/18/2010 1:21 AM by Author "bent_wrench" in the forum "Walkera Helis - Dragonfly, etc.."
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10010159

RE: 9303 program anomaly
Thanks AWorrest, I turned off AUTO LAND since that is what was common to our issues. I reset and restored to a previous working version and set up the FLAP SYS. If all works out I will test fly tomorrow 8/18. I plan to contact Horizon. Although, like you I don’t plan to use the AUTO LAND… it is nice But! Thanks again for your response
Posted on: 8/17/2010 8:09 PM by Author "Bent Nail" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9940954

9303 program anomaly
I had an interesting development at the field yesterday. I have a JR 9303 with R921 receiver. I wanted to use the Flap System. I have SYS selected in the Device SEL (under flap). I have had this programmed for some time but had not tested in flight. It worked on the ground. Flap switch 0- Flaps up; Flap switch 1- Flaps down 24deg 5% down ELE; Flap switch 2- Flaps down 40 deg ELE down 10%. Throttle Advance past 90% Flaps up. When I put the plane together on Sunday and tested the Flaps they did not work. It was as if the programming was turn off. Check the program, all appeared OK. More experience 9303 flier check the programming and got the same results. I deselected the SYS in the Device SEL and the flaps worked obviously the advanced functions did not work. All other controls worked properly. I decided not the fly as it did not seem right that the programming would fail. When I got home I decided to restore from my backup (PC Data transfer). I reset the memory position, and then restored the programming. Viewing the servo movement from the monitor all servos appeared to be working correctly. I have not had the opportunity to check on the aircraft but I will test in the next 2 days (it is a task to get the 1 / 3 L5 out of trailer!) Has anyone had a similar problem?
Posted on: 8/16/2010 11:19 AM by Author "Bent Nail" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9937198

RE: what was your first radio system?
My first was a Heathkit 5 channel I think, with 4 servos late 60's. one of my electronic friends (who finally got it to work) told me never to put a soldering iron next to electronic equipment again.[:D] Then Kraft gold, JR, Futaba, JR
Posted on: 8/4/2010 11:17 AM by Author "Bent Nail" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9910351

RE: What is customer support?
I must also add my Kudos to Smart-Fly. Robert and crew have been exceptional in providing service. Even when I was the problem (please no comment[sm=cry_smile.gif]). Thanks again for producing quality products and backing them up with great service. John M. Sioux Falls, SD
Posted on: 6/29/2010 11:24 AM by Author "Bent Nail" in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9834045

RE: Hangar 9 40 Size Piper Pawnee!!!
Hi John J use a piece of cycle tube to cover the O-rings, closed with plastic straps in both ends. regards Bent
Posted on: 6/11/2010 11:24 AM by Author "Bent Larsen" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9794487