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RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: RC Specialties Michael, IÂ run CoolPower also and only recently started adding castor. I have had no issues with it. Jim [/quote] Me too 30% in 5 different Saitos. Seems to be a good fuel.
Posted on: 10/17/2009 6:31 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9181073
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
Thanks for the prop info for the 150 guys[;)]
Posted on: 10/15/2009 12:45 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9175372
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[font="Arial"][/font][size=2][/size] What's a good 3 blade prop size for a Saito 150? I've got a Topflight 80" T-34 Mentor with I'm putting the 150 in.
Posted on: 10/14/2009 4:35 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9173232
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: mike early [quote]ORIGINAL: billd3 [quote]ORIGINAL: VeeAte Just found these on the net. They look pretty cool I reckon. Don't know whether they would have any benefit for cooling. http://secraft.net/shop/step1.php?number=666 Would be better in a different colour too. [/quote] Yeah...nice lookin stuff. It says $38 for ''quantity 1''. I wonder if that'
Posted on: 8/19/2009 7:51 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9029241
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
I can't remember if I'm a Club Saito member or not[sm=72_72.gif]. I have been in RC for 25 years and until 3 years ago I flew nothing but giant scale gas since 1987. 3D profiles got me back into glow and I now have 5 Saitos...an 82, 100, two 150's and 1 brand new 115[:D]. I love my Saitos and I'm now learning about bearing replacement[X(]...So how bout it...Can I join?[sm=tongue_smile.gif] This forum has some great info, but I think it'll take me forever to read all the back pagesbut I'll work on it. BTW, I recently ran accross this: http://tech.flygsw.org/. He seems to have some good stuff too. One of the things that cought my eye was the positive crankcase ventilation system mod. I know this is probably discussed somewhere on this forum but is it a good thing and worth it?
Posted on: 8/18/2009 3:48 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9025968
RE: Welcome to Club SAITO !
[quote]ORIGINAL: VeeAte Just found these on the net. They look pretty cool I reckon. Don't know whether they would have any benefit for cooling. http://secraft.net/shop/step1.php?number=666 Would be better in a different colour too. [/quote] Yeah...nice lookin stuff. It says $38 for "quantity 1". I wonder if that's 1 pair or just 1 rocker cover? Some other good lookin stuff on their web site too.
Posted on: 8/18/2009 3:32 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9025937
engine cleaner?
Recently I've been replacing my bearings in a couple of Saito engines but I'm finding it difficult to clean off all that junky stuff that gets burned onto the cylinder, muffler, and various internal parts. What's the best cleaner and process to use to get everything nice and clean?
Posted on: 7/5/2009 2:09 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8908116
RE: MICRO SERVO ON SAITO 100 THROTTLE
I use the Hitec 81or 85 MG on every size MOJO/PRIMO throttle from the Saito 82 to the 150. I found that when using the nylon geared versions I was stripping gears on hard unplanned landings[:D]. The MG's work great!
Posted on: 5/3/2009 7:05 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8737464
RE: MOJO 60 Saito 100 vibration
I'll weight in here, just for grins[8D]...I've built 11 MOJO/Primos and I'm currently flying a MOASS MOJO 60 with my Saito 100. I remember that when the Saito was new it shook but as it ran in it became much smoother. One trick I learned is DON"T use the Saito manual to tune the needles...I think I got this web site here on RCU: http://saito-engines.info/ ...Then go to Throttle set up and tune the engine EXACTLY as they say. The real trick is the low end...not only will the engine run smoother but will use less fuel. Another thing I did was switched to 30% nitro...Yeah I know it's expensive; but the engine runs soooooooo much better and smoother and is wicked with a 16X4W APC. One more trick is to go to your favorite home improvement center and buy a length of 3/4" X 3/4" X 1/16" thick aluminum angle. Cut 4 lengths long enough to go from the front of the mount to as far rearward as possible (both sies)...cut one of the lips down to about 1/8- 3/8"...rough up the 3/4" side and the motor mount area and epoxy these rails onto the mount. Then drill for mounting the engine. This forms a sort of "I"-beam support to the mount and stabilizes the whole area back to the wing LE adding very little weight. That's my story and I'm stickin to it[sm=wink_smile.gif]
Posted on: 5/3/2009 7:00 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "3D Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8737451
RE: Wild Hare 40% Giles 202
Update on my WH Giles 202...I've been a little slow to do anymore experiments with the CG. Up till last weekend I've been flying it with the CG right at the center of the wing tube. I have now moved both flight batteries back to the 1st bay of the turtledeck and the ignition batt forward about 12 " of the wing tube. It now balances 3/8" BEHIND the center of the wing tube. I put 4 flights on it this weekend and it actually IMPROVED the flying. It will now do a 700 ft slow roll with almost -0- pitch corrections. All trims except rudder are at dead center with 4 clicks of right rudder. When you roll inverted at one end of the runway the plane will only lose about 5 ft of altitude at the end of 700 feet. The pitch coupling in KE has also reduced. It rolls like it's on a rail, seems to maintain excellent heading in snaps, and it hovers rock solid. I'm still showing no signs of the elevator becomming sensitive. I'm getting some wing rocking in harriers and elevators. BTW, this thing does the damndest walls[:D]. What a hoot to fly[:)][:)] Today I moved the ign batt back 12" to its original place which will make the CG 1/2" behind the center of the wing tube. Based on results so far I expect this to be the "honey spot". I'll then do some more flight testing for thrust but I expect I'll probably add about 1/2 degree more right thrust in order to zero out the rudd trim. I'm also hoping the final CG move will all but eliminate the pitch coupling in KE. Tom, thanks again for a truely wonderful plane...don't understand why these things aren't showing up everywhere.
Posted on: 4/27/2009 7:16 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8720392
RE: Wild Hare 40% Giles 202
[quote]ORIGINAL: rctom Thanks for a great report. Some pictures would be great. I tell people it's a great flying plane but there are so many skeptics. Apparently somebody poisoned the well by selling a bad flying Giles someweher back in history, and it's a shame because it's such a nice plane. Someday people will come around, about the same time the USA budget is balanced. TF [/quote] Tom, I haven't taken any pics yet of the Giles fully assembled or in flight...tried to today but weather wasn't good. You can see that I moved the rudder servos back 1 "bay" and with the A123 batts 6" behind the tube the CG came out exactly dead center on it. The other batt tray on top behind the canopy is where the batts move the CG about 1/2" behind the center of the wing tube. On my next flight I will place 1 of the batts on this tray and see what that does. I'll try to get some full plane shots when I get back from Toledo. ps: I hope the pics work...it's the 1st time I've tried to post any on the RCU forums[;)]
Posted on: 3/27/2009 7:17 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8623067
RE: Wild Hare 40% Giles 202
Well, I put the maiden flights on my Wild Hare 40% Giles 202 today...with the CG set on the CENTER of the wing tube, Tom[:)]. The first flight the plane rotated nice and easy and straight as an arrow. After a procedural turn I straightened out and released my hands from the Tx...IT JUST KEPT RIGHT ON TRUCKIN...No trim inputs at all. I rolled it inverted and it didn't drop the nose, requiring a very, very slight pressure on the elevator to maintain level flight. As I expected, it did tuck a little to the gear in knife edge but it only requires a light pull on the elevator to straighten it out. basic aerobatic maneuvers were predictable and it seemed like I was flying a high end pattern plane...snaps were crisp and exited on line. The first flight was done with the control surfaces set at the recommended low rates. I was prepared for a sensitive elevator since the in structions call on 12 degrees but I did not find it really all that sensitive. Landings were like it was on a string. Although it didn't seem to bleed off speed quite as quickly as the more popular round cowled aerobats, It did slow down nicely and nearly landed itself...nice and smooth. For the second flight I ratcheted up the elevator another 10 degrees and cranked in another 5-8 on the ailerons. Rolls were much nicer and the elevator still did NOT seem touchy at all. On extreme flight settings it still did not get ahead of me but I limited my maneauvers at these settings until I get a little more comfortable at being able to predict how it will react and I get some more run time on the engine. All-in-all, It's one of the best flying planes Iv'e had and I'm IMPRESSED! [:D][:D][:D] I really like the look of the plane in the air...That swept back leading edge does seem to give the plane a very distinctive look. BTW, Tom, the CG at the tube center is indeed good! The plane seems to act like it will tolerate some more rearward movement but I'm gonna leave it right in the center for a few more flights...I'm guessing that I'll probably experiment with tiny moves , like 1/8" at a time...and I'm thinking I might quit when I go about 1/4" more or so. I promise to be careful! I can tell, from today's flights, the Giles is telling me I need to have respect for its CG location[;)]. Thanks for a great airplane!
Posted on: 3/22/2009 7:45 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8604833
RE: Wild Hare 40% Giles 202
[quote]ORIGINAL: rctom I'd balance it at the center until you become familiar with it, a tail heavy Giles can be a very short lived Giles. T [/quote] OK, Boys. Batts moved; CG now at center of wing tube[:)]. It sure is tempting, though to push it back a little[sm=cool.gif]
Posted on: 3/20/2009 2:55 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8597846
RE: Wild Hare 40% Giles 202
Tom...after foolin around for over a month working on other folks planes and dabbling with the Giles, I finaly got mine ready to fly. I was so scared about the CG being too far forward with the DA100, I moved my SWB rudd/servo tray back a foot and prepared to mount my 2 Rx batts about 2/3's down the tail. When I hung it on my Vanessa CG machine it was TAIL HEAVY...actually balanced 1/2" BEHIND the center of the wing tube...Just how far back can I go without getting into a lot of trouble? I'm use to flying profile 3D machines way back on the CG. I can put the Rx batts 6" behind the tube and it balances on the center of the tube... MAiden flights scheduled for this Sunday[:D]
Posted on: 3/19/2009 9:37 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8595809
RE: EQ-10 Set up
[quote]ORIGINAL: rrritchey Hi, Are you positive you were in the Options Menu? Did all the LEDs blink on functions 8 and 6? Did you go counter-clockwise so you did not go through 0? If you could set End-point hold on one channel it has to work on the other. [/quote] Well, I might have known it would be something simple...I forgot about the "0" thing...You can't pass "0"; you can't collect your $200...If ya do, Ya go straight to jail[;)] When I tried it again I caught myself trying to go clockwise and it hit me like a brick...Went counter-clockwise and everything worked great...I thank you once again, Robert. Someone ought to hang a sign on me saying "stay away from electronic things". All kidding aside, now that I've gone through the pain, the next time will be a breeze. This EQ10 is one sweet electronic tool[sm=teeth_smile.gif]
Posted on: 3/16/2009 1:44 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8583866
RE: EQ-10 Set up
Hello again...I'm baaaaack[:o]. Well, I was having such a nice day...got all the programming on the EQ10 done except ailerons...Read the instructions , turned the ch to #2, skipped the "Output Priority" set the "endpoint hold" and everything worked. At this point I thought I had this thing all figured out [:D]...soooo I installed the left wing panel, selected ch6 and powered up in function 9. then turned to function 2 (endpoint hold)... looked down and the led was blinking slowly so I hit the "incr" button and NOTHING happened[sm=confused_smile.gif]. Help...I think I'm[sm=drowning.gif]. The Tx was turned on and Servo A plugged in. I must be an idiot[:(]
Posted on: 3/16/2009 12:04 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8583528
RE: EQ-10 Set up
[quote]ORIGINAL: rrritchey Hi, Did you split your ailerons using "Flaperon"? If so, the ailerons are controlled by two inputs. First is your stick for the true aileron part. Second is the flap input, on your transmitter this is a 3-position toggle. In the Flaperon menu you can adjust the flap contribution to the ailerons. You need to "zero" this contribution. I cannot give you the detail on how to do this on the 9303 though. [/quote] Yes, They're split...Right off the bat, I don't recall this feature...The only reference to the Flap on the Wing Type page is at the bottom , referencing "Mate" and "Trim" which are inhibited...I suspect that this feature refers to the "flap trim", if and when the ailerons are also to be used as flaps. Since I don't do that on anything I fly, I just turn it all off in the "Device Selection" mode which transfers over to "wing Type"...I think/guess[sm=confused_smile.gif]. To further confuse the issue[sm=confused_smile.gif], I did make sure the flap and Aux trims are set at neutral...Oh Well...Life is good[:)]. Thanks again Robert!
Posted on: 3/15/2009 2:25 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8580521
RE: EQ-10 Set up
[quote]ORIGINAL: rrritchey Hi, You are correct that a channel will not calibrate if it is not close to center. This is why a toggle will not calibrate if it is up or down. If its a 3-position toggle it will calibrate if its in the middle position. I do not know why your channel 2 will not calibrate, have you plugged a servo into channel 2 to see if its operating normally? If not, try plugging a servo into your receiver channel 2 to see if it works. You should have your transmitter all setup for split ailerons before you calibrate. Its also possible that you have not zeroed out the contribution of the flap dial if you used FLAPERON to split your ailerons. I had a call with just this problem, on a 9303 I think, a week or so ago. He never could get the flap dial contribution out. I cannot help you on this. Let me know if you have any other questions. [/quote] I placed the toggles in the center position and plugged a servo into CH2. I reset and did the calibrate function again and it WORKED[:D]. The only ones that did not calibrate were 9&10 and I believe this is normal...Thanks Robert! BTW: not sure what you mean about "flap dial contribution" as the 9303 has no dials on it. The flap has a 3 way toggle.
Posted on: 3/14/2009 6:39 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8578014
EQ-10 Set up
I'm setting up my EQ10 and I have a couple of questions: Tx= JR 9303 2.4ghz Rx= JR 921 2.4ghz Using the Tech Reference guide I entered into the Options Menu and performed the "Reset All" which seemed to go OK. I then went to "Calibrate All" and the confusion began. With my TX on, I did the first part and all the CH lights started a slow blink. I then hit the second part and CH 1(thro), 2(Ail), 6(aux1), 9(aux 4-unplugged), and ch 10(aux5) would NOT calibrate: they all stayed on slow blink. The ch1 has the first 3 wire plug inserted but I need it for my throttle. I assume I can still use it for that.??? I guess since there is really no need for the throttle servo to "center", or am I missing something? In the Tech Guide I read that a ch on a toggle switch may not calibrate. Since ch6 is on a 3 way toggle (flap)...OK, I figured...but wait a minute...CH7 is on the other 3 way toggle and it CALIBRATED. (???) The PE's CH9(aux4) plug was not used, so again I thought ...OK. The aux5...well, since my Tx is a 9 ch Tx...The other 3 wire lead is plugged into it for the second batt. Now I come to CH 2 (ailerons)...I wonder why that ch won't calibrate? I then tried to calibrate ch2 by itself but it didn't work. Am I doing something wrong? I guess I'm really concerned about CH2 and the other channel I will use for the left wing panel ailerons(ch6)... What's my next step? Thanks in advance.
Posted on: 3/14/2009 12:12 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8577047
RE: Couple questions?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man It will be close to what you seek. The DA is not the lightest engine, but it's a good one for sure, so minor movement will be required. The 40% Giles [i]does not like[/i] being nose heavy. A little "push" when inverted is about as close as you'll get to true neutral. A very little push... Set all the batteries asa far back as you can before doing anything with rudder servo(s). You may find that two tail mounted rudder servos is what it takes to balance right. I wrapped plumbing solder around the tailwheel spring wire to get mine where I wanted it. I was too lazy to build an aft battery tray[:)] Do not use an aluminm spiinner. It's too much weight up front. [/quote] Thanks, T.O.M. I appreciate the info! BTW: Poorwboy...My apologies for hijacking your thread...Sorry[sm=red_smile.gif]
Posted on: 3/11/2009 4:05 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8567524
RE: Couple questions?
Thanks Tom. I know we discussed this before, but the more I thought about the rudder servos in the tail, I finally decided to put them in a pull/pull configuration instead. I'm using an SWB self-adjusting servo tray and I intend to mount it further back in the fuselage. I am using 3 A123 batteries (2300mah). The ignition batt I have already mounted on the tube. I have a C/F spinner and will be using a lighter weight wood prop...Looks like I'll need to instal the 2 Rx batteries directly in the tail.
Posted on: 3/11/2009 3:58 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8567506
RE: Couple questions?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man ... So regardless of where any manufacturer states the C/G should be located I'll alter that location until I have zero elevator trim to fly the plane straight and level. Most manufacturers use what could be called a "safe" C/G location in the area of 25 to 27% of MAC. It's almost impossible to have an unstable plane in that area. Unfortunatey that's usually nose heavy, much too stable, and they require a faster approach speed to prevent what some might call a tip stall, need to fly faster through manuevers to prevent breaking off to one side or the other in a tight maneuver, and "float" down the runway while bleeding off flight speed. It creates much too much work to have fun flying like that. [/quote] [;)]I know about all that...The purpose of my question was since you already fly a WH 40% Giles and I'm just setting mine up, I figured you could save me some trouble with installing my gear, particularly the rudder servos, for 0/0 trimmed wing & horizontal (I also know that in order for an airfoil to lift, it has to have some degree of a PAOA,therfore making it impossible to set the CG for hands-off/no trim level flight in both upright AND inverted flight.), so that it would be hands-off inverted. I understand mfgrs. are conservative with CG recommendations but, like you, I prefer a neutral CG...With that said, will the center of the tube accomplish this? I am aware, using a DA100 will make interior gear placement critical for achieving proper CG without adding tail weight. Thanks in advance.
Posted on: 3/11/2009 3:45 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8567463
RE: Couple questions?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man Same place, center of the wing tube. Tried more forward but it carries too much speed for landings that way and floats waaay down the runway while the speed bleeds off. [/quote] Does that setting make the plane fly hands off inverted?
Posted on: 3/11/2009 12:09 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8566749
RE: Couple questions?
Hey T.O.M...just curious...Where do yu have your CG set on your 40% Giles?
Posted on: 3/11/2009 6:40 AM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8565980
RE: Pin and flag or EQ6
[quote]ORIGINAL: lxcoupe Thanks Robert!!! Email sent [/quote] Yep...Thanks from me too, Robert. From what I'm seeing, your service is second to none. I'm glad I chose Smart Fly.
Posted on: 3/1/2009 3:02 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8532230
RE: Pin and flag or EQ6
[quote]ORIGINAL: rrritchey Hi Al, I guess I am a little confused about one statement. You say it does not turn off but it does kill the Tx to Rx link. If the receiver is still powered up it should not kill the link. What are the symptoms exactly, why do you think its still on when the transmitter will not work the flight system? [/quote] Robert, now I'm confused again...When you said, "If the receiver is still powered up...". Doesn't the pin/flag switch (when pin is replaced) shut the power off to the Rx and if not, what other switches do we need? I'm setting up an EQ10 as we talk using the failsafe pin switch also.
Posted on: 3/1/2009 10:37 AM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8531253
RE: EQ10 Set Up
[quote]ORIGINAL: rrritchey Hi Bill, It sounds like you have everything correctly hooked up. You can still use your flight logger. You may want to put a short extension on the data port as its not very accessible when connected to the Eq10. You can charge through the charge leads but you have to remember that if you want to charge both batteries at once your charger(s) has to handle a common ground system correctly. If they cannot then you can damage the charger. You should not have any problems with the 7955s. Let me know if you have any other questions. [/quote] Thanks!
Posted on: 2/27/2009 6:46 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8525845
EQ10 Set Up
Hello Robert. I'm new to Power Expanders and I'm installing my new EQ10. I just want to make sure I have everything connected properly. I am using 2 2300 mah A123 batteries each plugged into its separate battery connection on the unit(Deans plugs). My Rx is a JR 921 2.4ghz. As I understood the instructions I plugged the 3 wire ch1 into ch1 on the Rx and the 3 wire connection ch10 into the Rx ch 9. I did NOT plug anything into the Bat1 and Bat2 bind/data ports located underneath the channel ports on the Rx. I have a failsafe pin switch plugged into it's port on the unit and charge leads plugged into each of their ports. Does it sound like I've got it right? I assume I can plug my flight log directly into the data port? I'm still a little confused about charging the batteries...What do I have to differently, or can I charge directly through the charge leads? I am using Hitec 7955 servos, doubled up on the rons and rud...anything unusual I should look out for when I start matching them up?
Posted on: 2/26/2009 7:51 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "Smart-Fly (Quest Engineering) Support Forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8522217
RE: Hitech HPP-21 programmer
[quote]ORIGINAL: pilotpete2 Your HP 20 is the top end model. The new HHP 21 is an inexpensive model (40 bucks) that when connected to a PC thru a USB port can do much of what the HP 20 does, but for a lot less. Not nearly as sexy as the HP 20[;)] Pete [/quote] OH, OK...Thanks Pilot Pete[;)]
Posted on: 1/29/2009 12:30 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8415622
RE: Hitech HPP-21 programmer
I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I have an HP20...I thought it was the newest one. What does the 21 do that the 20 won't?
Posted on: 1/28/2009 6:54 PM by Author "billd3"
in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8413137
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