RE: Loose Shaft?
Hey... Just wanted to check in and see how yall made out with this. Bob
Posted on: 11/17/2009 9:08 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259844

RE: BSE 120L
A checkup can be helpful. But you might be better off putting it back on the test bench and starting from there. Instructions on setting the low/mid needle are on the jett website. Typically not difficult to do. Bob
Posted on: 11/17/2009 9:06 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9259843

RE: BSE 120L
Thanks for writing..... First, not wise to change the low speed mixture setting. Dub dials that in at the shop. It is not the same as most other low speed mixtures, it is more of a midrange mixture adjustment. Moving it from the stock position more than 1/4 turn either way can and will cause things not to work right. The jett-stream (red) muffler is a tuned device. As the engine stages on or off of the pipe, there is a point at which the mixture will seem rich (or lean) as the engine trys to stage on the muffler (pipe effect). From what you described, it sounds like you may be running slightly rich on the top end. Generally this is ok. The best way to work with the midrange is to adjust the ignition timing. That is done with the glow plug. The Mc59 is usually pretty good. But it sounds like you might want to try using an OS 4C plug. Yes, the 4cycle plug. It is a very hot plug, and the hooded element allows the engine to get through a wet transition (similar to what old idle bar glow plugs use to do). Give that a try. Do not focus on what the exhaust looks like. That is a function of the oil in the fuel, it is not really an indication of how the engine is running. Find peak ground rpm on the high speed needle, back off from that peak about 500 rpm, and that should be perfect for flight. Also, be certain the prop you chose runs in the rpm band the engine/muffler prefers. You want to see about 10,500 peak ground rpm or more. Anything between 10K and 12K is a good target with this engine. Might mean backing off to a 15x6 for a few flights, until you get a little time on the engine, and get use to how it runs. Let me know how you make out.
Posted on: 11/15/2009 8:05 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9256128

RE: YS61 2 Stroke w/ Jett-Stream Muffler
Mike has his new small block 60 in the P7 and noted that bigger 61-90 block engines might not be a good idea. I am looking forward to using the jett 60L in the phx 7 when it becomes available.
Posted on: 10/29/2009 12:11 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9212232

RE: Jett 46
Probably was a replacement crankcase.... someones rebuild. Always here to help. Bob
Posted on: 10/28/2009 10:00 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9210928

RE: YS61 2 Stroke w/ Jett-Stream Muffler
Hi David, Thanks for writing....... I flew a few YS engines back in the day. Always good powerplants. Unless you go out of your way .... you will not hurt the engine. You already know the drill regarding after-run oil in the YS. The engine you have works great with 12x10, 12x12 props. In an older design aircraft, you may have to drop to an 11x10 or 11x11 for ground clearance. With the jettstream, any of those props will work quite well. The 20-20 fuel will work fine. I ran mine on standard 15% omega most of the time. A bit more nitro will not hurt it. Word of caution - keep in mind the YS61 engines are physically larger and sorta heavy compared to the ST blue head or Webra black head , or even OS 60 FSR from back in the day. Plan your engine installation well in advance and accordingly. Let me know things go when you get to testing props on the test stand. Bob
Posted on: 10/28/2009 9:57 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9210915

RE: ceramic bearings and Jett engine
In brief, in the Jett engines the answer is no. But there is no reason you could not use them if you wish. Typically good products if you get the right one for the job. Ceramic bearings do help out in some engine applications where added durability is needed. The stock jett bearings are very good, good lubrication paths within the engine, and if you take care of the engine, they last for ages. They are properly sized for the engines (usually the issue with other engines prone to bearing failure). So they wear very little, and very rarely mechanically fail. My racing engines get new bearings at the end of each season. The sport engines .... last set I changed out was in my SJ50, and that was 3 years ago (that engine is 10 years old). The only other times I have had to replace a bearing was after a crash or dirt otherwise got into the front bearing, or one time where I was careless and left a "wet" engine sit in my basement for a few months - rusted the crud out of the bearings and crankshaft. My bad there. When I have need to change one bearing, I will change both as a set. If you do not take care of the engine, even ceramic bearings will fail. Rust or other foreign matter on the races is the main failure mode for most model engine bearings. Caused by not running the engine dry, or proper used of occational after run oil. Even ceramic bearings will fail if they get pitted or rusted. Some bearings I ran across a few years ago in an import engine were made with poor quality steel races that will rust if you breath heavy on them (exageration). I hope this is helpful Bob
Posted on: 10/28/2009 9:46 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9210873

RE: SCREAMIN' DEMON DOES 202 MPH!!!
sounds like a real screamin demon :) nice job
Posted on: 10/28/2009 11:19 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9209070

RE: Jett 46
[quote]ORIGINAL: poorwboy Heres a couple pics [/quote] It is a .40 - CAPS racing setup, SS carb, with the nelson/jett glow plug head. Has the SS sport racing muffler. None of the .46 engines were built that way. Engine will run great. But be aware, although it is designed to idle and throttle (to meet the sport racing rules), and it does do that, that SS carb has no low speed mixture adjustment. So to be more direct, it really is not designed as a fully-featured throttle. We used it either wide open or shut down. Obviously you already saw this. With a smaller prop, you have a better chance of at least lower power and midrange. But do not expect much lower than a 3000 rpm idle. Plus, the nelson plugs tend to go cold on you quickly at low power settings, and then will not transition out from there. (although, sometimes racing these things, they would idle too darn good and would not shut down for landing...... of course, with my favorite prop on the shaft) You want to prop the engine to run no less than 17,000 rpm, and preferably over 17,500 peak ground rpm. 10x6 is as big as you want to go. The APC 9x7 would be better. On a Q-500 type design, an APC 8.5x7.25 is a great choice too :) My suggestion ........ use the engine for what it is ........ by the time you replace the carb (and maybe the head button) it is a bit of expense.
Posted on: 10/28/2009 10:23 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208946

RE: Dave Brown Paint Scheme Photo's
I thought I would toss in one from my collection. I believe I posted it up here before. From 1983 Nats. Bob
Posted on: 10/28/2009 10:19 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208931

RE: Patriot XL with OS 120 AX
[quote]ORIGINAL: Bigdaddy1963 Im also building a patriot xl with robart retracts and a brand new os 120 ax and thinking about a jett tuned muffler and a 14 x 12 apc.  am i wasting my time? [/quote] OS120 is probably not the best choice here. Great engine, but that prop selection will be a real bear. Play with it on the bench. With the jett-stream muffler, you want to prop the OS120 for around 10,000-10,500 ground peak rpm. Upwards to 11,500-12,000 is ok (engine is ok with it too). You can squeeze out a 12" prop and clear the ground, so look more into a 12x12 or the 12x14 that APC has. Again, you will need to properly characterize the engine on the test bench - so you know what to expect in the aircraft. And, as noted, you should expect to add a bunch of weight in the tail end. Plan ahead. Bob
Posted on: 10/28/2009 10:15 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208926

RE: Scoop! Hangar 9 Phoenix 7...ARF!!!
[quote]ORIGINAL: sc204 Before computerized radios, we had to buy a servo reverser or swap the outside wires on the motor and pot. Not a big deal. We followed trimming articles from the magazines which we cut out and saved as there was no internet to quickly find it again. Some of the same charts that are available today on the internet. As Mike said you cut the wing to change dihedral. My first Atlanta was cut 2 times to get it right. The plans were wrong. I built 3 total and the next two were fine with the final dihedral of the first. If I remember correctly 7mm from the wing to the string run from tip to tip instead of 12mm. Many of us played with wing and stab incidence and aileron drrop or reflex (slightly) to straighten out the knife edge. The better trimmers with better designs probably played with CG as well to get everything straighter. Some things like vertical lines especially down lines you had to fly a bit to keep straight. Mixing did show up in radios in the early to mid 80's. I think the first radios had 1 mix that could be activated. So pick which one you needed the most. Stuart [/quote] At least there are a few of us out here that remember how to trim a plane :) I run into folks these days who think it is alien to adjust a clevis/pushrod, rather than just dial in electronic sub trim. Bob
Posted on: 10/28/2009 9:53 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9208885

RE: Next Project! Kyosho Kelly, Jett 50 sport
Read the other Kelly thread from a while back The Jett works well in there, but the engine/muffler installation requires a good deal of creativity. Bob
Posted on: 10/19/2009 1:17 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9185415

RE: Scoop! Hangar 9 Phoenix 7...ARF!!!
Keeping my eye on this. [8D][8D][:D]
Posted on: 10/17/2009 11:15 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Classic Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9181696

RE: Venus II
[quote]ORIGINAL: CustomPC After over 6 months on the building board i have finally found the time to finish my Venus II and plan to maiden her tommorrow, weather permitting. I was planning to use my Webra .91 but decided to go with the 1.20AX instead. I'm using a Turbo-Jett muffler which fits completely within the cowl. I used Dubro ball links on all control links and made my own pseudo carbon push rods by using some carbon tube over 4-40 threaded rod glued in with a small amount of gorilla glue. These are much stiffer than the metal rods and only add a few grams of weight. Servos are Futaba 9255's on the Ailerons and Elevators, 9151 on the Rudder. Power is provided by a PowerBox DigiSwitch and Fromeco 2600mAh LiOn pack. The dry weight is 3,900gm (8.59lb) The balance came out almost perfect. I only needed 15gm (1/2oz) of lead weight near the tail wheel to get it on the reccomended CofG. one thing that concerns me is that the landing gear has quite a bit of toe-out and i'm wondering if this will effect the taxiing at all? [/quote] Looks great !
Posted on: 10/13/2009 10:50 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9171401

RE: DeNight Special 50 ARF
No manual posted for it yet. I dislike when they avoid showing an engine installation in the photos. But what is shown is promising This is a fairly large plane, 625sq wing, 7 lbs. Big cowling. If we can make the internal muffler install work (similar to sundowner) and beef up the engine box, 60LX or OS55/jett combo would be great ...... but with more info, it is worth seeing if the 90L may work here too. They showed the electric install with the batteries up in the engine box, so perhaps it might need the weight up front anyway. Time will tell once they become available. Bob
Posted on: 10/13/2009 11:39 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9169540

RE: what prop jet
[quote]ORIGINAL: paulg71 hello all well fuck knows how u ment to start a new thread on here , anyway i just going to purchase a vmar f5 tiger 11 and as there seems to be be no where on here to find out about one i will be doing a build thread on the kit including pics and hopefully if all goes well a maiden flight video too will keep u all posted cheers paul. [/quote] The Vmar F5 will be an interesting project. To start a new thread, http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/forumid_104/tt.htm At the top of the main forum index toward the left side , find the box/button that says NEW POST
Posted on: 10/13/2009 11:27 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9169518

RE: Engine Question SJ 50 or SJ60LX
Thanks for writing...... It is hard to really offer up competitive solutions. I can make suggstions, but there are WAY too many variables involved. Main thing is the Ultrastick, by design and nature, is a draggy airframe. It takes a ton more power to make it go just a little bit faster. Draggy planes need bigger diameter props. So the trick is, can you get the speed from the airframe with a 9x7 prop up front. (also, be CERTAIN to seal all of the control surface gaps or it will flutter a surface if it gets going very fast - and you may not "hear" it buzz.... but it will buzz and can eventually fail) Your best bet is to install the SJ50 you currently have on the Ultrastick. With a 9x7 APC prop it should turn well over 17,000 peak ground rpm, and will unload well in flight. See how it performs on your Ultrastick. That would be your first choice. If you like the performance from that test, but want just a little bit more, then sure - the 60LX will be that next step. Nothing at all wrong with a Webra 55. One heck of a good engine. Good torque, decent top end rpm. And yes, about $180. Performs ok on a stock muffler. Then you add a $30 header and $70 full size pipe combination to it, and it really performs - but its now a $280 engine. People tend to lose sight of that. Same goes for the OS55AX great engines, with a jett-stream muffler on it and a 10x8 or 11x6 prop the combination can really produce excellent power for a "40" size engine. A few folks flying that combination on older pattern designs and a few prop-jets. But when prepard that way, the cost between it and a jett engine is minimal. Also, fast is relative, unless it is measured using a repeatable and consistant method. A Viper with a SJ50, regular jett-stream muffler and the right prop should be flying well over 130 mph. An ultrastick pushed to 100 mph would be considered mighty fast for that design. Either the SJ50 or SJ60LX will provide excellent performance. It takes playing with the prop selection to come up with the best top end speed. With either engine, start with a 9x7 prop, and then work from there. Some folks flying warbirds with the SJ50 have found that the APC 10x7 works very well (unloads great, and pulls the draggy plane better). No advantage going with the higher rpm muffler choices because the plane will not allow the engine to unload enough in flight. Best possible power would come from adding a full-size pipe to either engine. Skip the turbo-jett. It is a great muffler, but not as much rpm boost, more of a torque boost. Great for scale planes and warbirds, but for your needs not the right choice. Muffler extensions - should be avoided. No more than 1/4" extention - or you will see a change in the power curve. Side mount the engine (cylinder horizontal), muffler hung down below, or rotated to another angle that allows the muffler to clear properly. You can also move the engine mount toward the bottom of the firewall a bit, it is a big firewall, and ground clearance will not be an issue. Also consider other engine mounting positions - mount the engine at 30deg or 45deg if the muffler clears better, and also consider modifying the nose of the fuselage slighly to accomodate the muffler. You can use the stock mount, just mount it so it fits better and will get the best fuel flow. Also - airframe mount the needle valve assembly. Fuel tank - the bubble-jett 8oz, or a Tetra bubble tank (central hobbies) would be a good investment. Not absolutely required, but if you use the stock tank, be sure that NO part of it touches the airframe - well padded (also remember you get to use about 2/3 usable fuel, so the 11oz tank is really a 9 oz tank). Who ever invented that tank-stopper-thru-the-firewall stuff should be drawn and quartered :) BSE-vs-Cast. For your application, no real difference in performance. Comes down to your prefernce on appearance, and your budget. Lastly..... are you racing, or just buring fast holes in the sky??? If racing (on a course or pylon setup) ........ the #1 way to go fast is PRACTICE. A fast plane does not win the race alone, the pilot is the most critical component. Every time you touch the sticks and move a control surface, the plane slows down. Smooth flying (pilot), reliable equipment (pilot, it is a choice and setup), no mental errors (pilot) wins races. Keep me up to date on the project. Should be fun to follow. Bob
Posted on: 10/7/2009 12:11 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9153885

RE: SJ .50 on Great Planes Escapade
Hi Rick, First, the prop mounting ... The jett engines have a removable/replaceable threaded prop stud. You do not want it threaded in so it comes to a hard stop, should be slighly loose. Unscrew it out of the engine, then thread it back in about 6 turns, and you should have no problem installing the APC prop. The engines when new are shipped with two prop studs, usually one is longer than the other. Install the same 9x6 you used for the run-in period. Compair apples to apples. The engine should perform the same as it did on the test stand. If it does not, then you know it has something to do with the aircraft/fuel system. If it runs fine, back it down from peak rpm about 1000 rpm and just fly it. The MA nylon 10x6 is just fine, it works and runs as well as the APC. Most wood 10x6 props tends to be a thicker blade - most will work fine, but if they do not turn up, the engine will struggle. Perhaps save that until you get more time on the engine. The engine should not have any real issues in the Escapade, unless (As you sorta noted) the fuel tank is mounted in there way too tight. The bubble tank is not a 100% necessity, but it does make it easier. Let me know how you make out Bob
Posted on: 10/3/2009 1:43 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9143681

RE: JS-40-TT muffler on OS46SF
Thanks for writing...... Power increase with the jett-stream muffler tends to produce about 1000-1500 more rpm than the stock muffler. On that same 10x6, you would see a notable power gain. Out of sight well, that depends on how much the plane weighs, and what sort of shape the engine is in. But I think you get the idea. :)
Posted on: 10/3/2009 1:29 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9143659

RE: props for Jett .35
sorry to hear you lost the first plane ..... but you know what to expect now ! I am confused ... briefly, did you order the pipe tuned by Dub along with the engine, or are you going to add the pipe later? The FIRE rear exhaust engines typically use a full pipe. Dub's pipes are slightly modified to help with exhaust velocity and backpressure. Dub typically pretunes his pipe systems per your prop/application request . Once Dub has the system tuned .... he should let you know what the rpm target is. From there, you can play with props a bit, with the goal of loading for the same ground peak rpm. If you build the plane without landing gear, you will probably want to stick with the stock 9x6 for a while. You need the immediate thrust for hand launch. The racing props are a good alternative for better top end speed, but the plane will not accelerate out of your hand quite as rapidly. Smaller 8" diameter will have the same issue. As far as aircraft performance ..... you are doing about all you can there. It has a fairly thick wing, and a good deal of frontal area. Compairing performance between the red muffler and a full pipe - gain is about 500-700 rpm more on the top end. Change in aircraft speed for your Kobra would not be substantial.
Posted on: 10/2/2009 11:57 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9141196

RE: props for Jett .35
Thanks for writing... Yes, the 9x6 is the baseline prop for performance comparison. However you can select and use the best prop for your application. Anything from an 8x7 up through a 10x4 is fair game. My main concern with most "Stock" 8" diameter props is that the hubs and blade roots are fairly thin. It all depends on the prop, how it is constructed, material, prop thickness, hub thickness ...... you get the idea. At 19-20k rpm, you may risk shedding a blade. So mainly for that reason, I usually recommend the 9" props. If you wish a smaller diameter, start with a 9x7 or 9x8 and trim/balance it, or look toward the APC 8.5x7 D-1 series Q-500 prop. The Vess 9x6, is OUTSTANDING. Prop the engine so it hits over 17,500 peak ground rpm. On the 35, that is usually easy to do :) You are generally looking for around 18,000 or more so you can launch over 17,500. Not a big concern with letting it turn rpm - it likes rpm. One of the best props I found on my BSE-30 was a 9x5, turned up around 19,000. Find peak rpm, back off about 600-800 rpm from peak ... fly it. Tell me the aircraft application, and I can try to suggest a good prop to look at.
Posted on: 10/1/2009 8:53 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9139869

RE: SJ50 and OS-F plug
my bad.... MC59 McCoy makes their own plugs. They have been around for a while. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXRA06&P=8 http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=DYN2508 Lots of places package/repackage the McCoy plugs, even some of the car mfgs and websites. Hangar 9 plug I refered to are these - Hot #3 version performance plugs http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN3020
Posted on: 10/1/2009 8:40 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9139824

RE: AKM SU-27 Flanker-Does Look Good
Nice !
Posted on: 10/1/2009 3:56 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9139185

RE: So, what about this new 60 in a 40 size Evolution?
[quote]ORIGINAL: Kmot Is this going to be a 'sleeper' speed engine? A 60 displacement in a 40 sized crankcase and designed for tuned pipe use. http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EVOE0600 [/quote] I wonder who came up with that idea..... (ummm... about 10 years ago now?) [&:][&:][&:][&:][:D] Probably will be a pretty good engine. Note the part in their description about the tuned exhaust. Short stroke, pipe timed... nice. Jett-stream muffler, 11x6 prop ..... lets see how it compairs to the 55AX configured like that.
Posted on: 10/1/2009 3:39 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9139145

RE: 50 FIRE Pipe Adaptor
Send Dub a note at jettengr@sbcglobal.net with the engine info and angle request. He may have something available from the old F-1 days.
Posted on: 10/1/2009 3:35 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9139133

RE: SJ50 and OS-F plug
Good fortune to have the battery die on the ground. The F plug will work just fine. It is actually a very hot plug, and we sometimes use it in the 60LX and 90LX to help with midrange transition issues. Dub ships the engines with Merlin "hot" plugs. Good products. Any good "hot" plug will work good, MC56 and the hangar 9 performance plugs are my weapon of choice lately. And usually the OS8 works fine too. Best of luck with the first flight!
Posted on: 10/1/2009 3:32 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9139122

RE: Sundowner 50 Arf
Numbers are right ...... sounds like you are good to go. Be sure to launch about 500-700 rpm off of peak rpm - when it unloads in flight, it needs the extra fuel.
Posted on: 9/27/2009 12:16 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Extreme Speed Prop Planes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9127334

RE: 50 FIRE Pipe Adaptor
[quote]ORIGINAL: ke6gkc Bob, I have another question. Does Dub make or can he make and adapter for the gold pipe that is angled up 10 degrees? It would make it easier to install into a Prather Little Toni. Thanks, Bruce [/quote] Dub does have an angled adapter, similar to what is used on the big Great Planes Toni (some photos on the website). But I am not sure if it is 10 degrees or less than that. Intent was to clear the fuselage. Which engine are you working with ? Bob
Posted on: 9/27/2009 12:14 PM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9127329

RE: Engine mounts SJ 76 & 50 lx FIRE
Thanks for writing...... The jett alumuim mounts are available for the FIRE 50. You should specify the engine when ordering. The actual QM40 mounts will not 100% because the mounting bolt locations are slightly different on the QM40 engines. The SJ76 and SJ90L mounting patterns are the same as that of the OS61/91 engines. Any mount you find for those will work. There are a number of soft mounts, glass filled and aluminum mounts that work well with the big-block engines. Tower usually carries the actual OS aluminum (pre-drilled) mounts for the OS 61/91 ..... those are pretty good. On a few of my projects I have used these http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN242024 These are not too bad either, if you want flexibility in location and engine choice http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=HAN2033 Bob
Posted on: 9/25/2009 9:49 AM by Author "bob27s" in the forum "Jett Engineering Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9122750