RE: Smoothing dry 3/4oz Fiberglass
One easy way to get the lightweight fiberglass cloth to smooth out , before applying the resin, is to use an old fashioned drafting brush. It creats enough static electricity so that the 3/4 oz. cloth lays down nicely. Dave Platt describes it in one of his DVD's as I recall. If there are wrinkles just "brush" them out. Works for me. Ray
Posted on: 8/17/2011 8:08 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Tips & Techniques"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10675470

RE: proctor albatross maiden flight
The plane looks beautiful. You have done an excellent job so enjoy the results of all your hard work. Paint scheme is great. Looking forward to more flight pictures. I have a MOKI 210 in a 29% Bucker Jungmeister and have been very happy with it on FAI fule. Good luck and thanks for posting the pictures. Ray
Posted on: 8/13/2011 7:09 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10669382

RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister
Hi Dave I double checked and it is the 3/8 " diameter tubing I used. Also as an FYI the cylinders are Williams Brothers 1/5 scale WASP radial cylinder cylinders. Another possible source of dummy 7 cylinder engines is Aerotech Scale Parts. I decided to build my own but they sure look nice on the WEB site. URL: http://www.aerotechmodels.com/dummy_radials.htm However I am sure that what you make yourself will be great. It will add a lot to the looks. If you are looking for some full size engine pictures poke back at me. Cheers Ray
Posted on: 4/19/2011 5:28 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10473159

RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister
Thanks guys. Dave Plastruct web site is: www.plastruct.com You can download the catalog as a PDF file which runs 152 pages. Online ordering is a pain unless you know what you want. They have several versions of Butyrate tubing fittings on pages 34 and 35 of the catalog in various diameters. For example 90 degree Elbow for size 12 tubing is E-12, 45 degree elbow is EL-12. Have various configurations. THe tubing itself can be found on page 20 such as TB-12 which is white. I find that the Plastruct Bondene cement works best for me. Tubing cleans well with Alcohol. Lacquer thinner tends to soften up the surface. Attached a couple of pictures of the exhaust collector in primer and a view of the rear of the cylinders. I was worried about mounting the fake engine to the MOKI but have run the engine for a while and nothing feel off.... yet..... at least. What I did for making the engine was to enlarge several close up front views of the BU-133 engine at the Fantesy Of Flight in Florida I took a while back to model size and they sort of used that as a guide. That combined with some engine shots of the full size U79 engine both in the cowl and without the cowling was helpful. By the way if you use epoxy to attach the tubing to the balsa/ply ring make sure that you roughen up the surface of the tubing well and get plenty of epoxy into the middle of the tubing to hold it well. Don't ask me how I know...... I used the same type of tubing for the intake manifold on a 1/4 scale Albatros several years ago and it has held up well. Hope this helps. Cheers Ray
Posted on: 4/18/2011 6:17 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10470900

RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister
The last few months I have spent some time adding a few scale details to the 29% Bucker U 79 (Gary Allen 33 % reduced plans) that was finished last spring and I had posted some pictures from the field. The sort of things that wanted to do last year but ran out of time before the flying season. Posted a few pictures below relative to: 1. Cockpit documents on the side access hatches. 2. Fuel guage that is prominant on the front of the fuselage. Made from Plastruct clear and styrene tubing. 3. Added N-Strut fake leather boots following the pictures from Big_Bird. 4. The Pitot Tube on the left wing. Made it from brass tubing and brass strip that was soldered together. The fake tubing to the strut is solid aluminum rod. 5. Fake push rod covers at the rear of the fuselage. Vacumn formed from 0.030 Styrene sheet plastic on my small vacumn form fixture. 6. Fake radial engine. Made from Balsa/ply, Williams Brothers cylinders and Plastruct ABS tube with 90/45 tubing angles. Painted the exhaust ring and the exhaist below the cowl with Tamiya AS-12 Bare-Metal Silver which was the closest I could fine to simulate the Stainless Steel that is used on U-79. The Cylinders were sprayed with Black Klasskote and the Blue for the crankcase is acrylic paint from a craft store. Sprayed the whole thing with Klass Kote Clear. The fake radial is a pretty tight fit around the MOKI 210. It came out a little heavier than I would have wanted, about 10 oz, but I had extra lead up front to balance it anyways which I removed so was sort of a wash. I checked the balance afterwards with the Vanessa rig and is slightly nose heavy which is what it was before. Offer some picture below. Really appreciate the posts to this thread that kept me going. :-) Ray
Posted on: 4/17/2011 8:13 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10468892

RE: vacuum forming/plastic sheet
Hi Another source I have had success with for plastic sheet is: United States Plastic Corp THey have various thicknesses and sizes of PETG (THey call it Vivtak) WEB site: www.usplastic.com Cheers Ray
Posted on: 3/25/2011 5:17 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10422781

RE: Lets Do An Escapement Model!!
Bob Loved seeing the pictures of the DQA. My Dad and I built one long long ago and flew it many times in my Grandparents back yard. Had a single channel Superregen receiver with an escapement and a COX 0.049. Had loads of fun. Do you know where I could find plans for a DQA ? Thanks for the memories. [:)] Ray
Posted on: 12/20/2010 7:17 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Golden Age, Vintage & Antique RC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10208869

RE: Ribbed Metal Ailerons
Hi One suggestion is to build up the ailerons out of balsa and glass them for a smooth surface. Then use half round Plastrut plastic strips with CA glue. Worked for me on a ZLIN-526AS ailerons. Some pictures at: http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=15892&PN=1 Cheers Ray
Posted on: 11/12/2010 8:24 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10131887

RE: Rear exhaust 91 glow options
Hi The header I purchased from Pe Reivers as part of a tuned pipe that he sells for the MVVS 91 . The rest of it was T6061 1/16 inch Aluminum sheet with some brass tubes. The Durafix Al solder seems to work OK as long as you make sure the metal is heated up real well so it flows along the surface after going over it with a Stainless steel brush. I used a MAP gas torch. I am somewhat concerned that there is too much backpressure. First time making a muffler so we will see. Cheers ray
Posted on: 10/10/2010 10:34 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10060613

RE: Rear exhaust 91 glow options
Hi It has been awhile but I recently installed an MVVS 91 in a ZLIN 526AS. Got it running this weekend without much trouble and runs well on FAI fuel. Starting up is much like my MOKI 210 in that it seems to like to be wet to start. If it is primed well one or two flips and off we go. Was not able to locate an off the shelf muffler that would fit so did some experimenting and made my own. Tried to copy some of the OS 91 type mufflers I have seen with regard to size and exhaust port. The aluminum solder seem to hold up OK after a few long runs at speed. We will see. For soldering the aluminum used Dura-Fix from Weeks Distributers. At this point have about three tanks thru it and it behaves well. Experimented with a 14 x 8 and a 15 x 6 APC prop and will stick with the 15 x 6 and see how it flys. So far see around 8,800 rpm with the 15 x 6 APC prop. Not sure if this is being limited by backpressure perhaps. I might experiment with a more open internal baffle. The pressure tap to the fuel tank is on the rear of the fuffler. In any case appreciate the feedback from folks on a rear exhaust 90 glow engine. Offer a few pictures below with regard to the installation on the ZLIN. Ray
Posted on: 10/10/2010 9:20 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10060461

RE: Recommended glow plug for MVVs 91 ?
Thanks for all the responses. I just received the engine Friday from pe reivers and have it mounted in the plane. Rotating the exhaust to the rear was a snap. I already use an OS A8 plug in a OS MAX 32 that I have so I will try that first and also a K&B 1L or a FOX miracle plug. I would like to use FAI fuel so will start there. The other planes I have use 15% Nitro or FAI fuel so I am trying to minimize the fuel types. For the prop I have an APC 15 x 6 and a APC 15 x 7 that I will experiment with. Thank you very much for the quick and excellent feedback. Next step is to install a muffler. The assistance is appreciated [:)] Ray
Posted on: 9/18/2010 8:59 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10011534

Recommended glow plug for MVVs 91 ?
I just purchased a MVVS 91 glow engine and will be installing it in a ZLIN-526AS. It has a narrow cowl so rotated the exhaust to the rear. From the various web sites I will start with a 15 x 7 APC prop running FAI fuel Was wondering about an appropriate glow plug. From web posts seems like an OS A8 or a OS F. Appreciate any recommendations. Ray
Posted on: 9/17/2010 10:28 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10009890

RE: Moki Engines Thread
MOKI 210 in 29% Bucker Jungmeister Hi I have a MOKI 210 in a 29% Bucker Jungmeister that is kind of heavy at 22 pounds but I am very happy with it. Have about 20 flights or so on it. Have used either SIG FAI fuel as well as Cool Power FAI with 4 oz of Castor added per gallon. The last few days did some experimenting with different props and based on flight performance an APC 20 x 10W looks to have the best pull and climb for aerobatics. Will fly nicely at half throttle. Prop types: ZINGER 22 x 8 turns around 6,200 RPM and plan will fly level at about 2/3 throttle. ZINGER 20 x 10 turns around 6,500 RPM but flys about the same. Maybe a little faster. APC 20 x 10W turns around 6,700 rpm and flys level a half throttle with excellent climb out at full throttle. Loops are much larger with the APC prop. This kind of mimics my experience with a OS MAX 1.6 2 cycle in a 1/4 scale WW1 Albatros Dva. With various 18 x 6 wood props the climb out was OK but sometimes marginal. With an APC 18 x 6W there was a much better climb out after takeoff and would fly well at half throttle. The APC props may not look as nice from a scale model perspective and they are heavier but the performance increase was noticeable. The MOKI 210 is the first MOKI for me and as long as I prime it well it starts very nicely. Runs like a top and lots of power. Cheers Ray
Posted on: 9/11/2010 9:25 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9995621

RE: Rear exhaust 91 glow options
Thanks for the excellent feedback. I will look at the size of the MVVS 91 and see if it fits. It is likely the best shot. On the Zlin the engine sits fairly far forward and there is space behind it for a muffler I believe. Side to side it is very tight. The MVVS also apparently runs FAI fuel which would be nice as that is what I use in my MOKI 210. Thanks. :-) Ray
Posted on: 8/16/2010 11:00 AM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9937153

Rear exhaust 91 glow options
Hi I have a Zlin 526AS scale aerobatic plane that has a fairly narrow cowl. Presently running a Saito 90 4 stroke and I was able to just fit the silencer inside the cowl. I am looking for a bit more power and am considering fitting a 91 2 stroke with rear exhaust if I can find one. Other than engines for Helicopters almost everything out there seems to be side exhaust except for the MVVS engines that allow rotation of the cylinder head for side or rear exhaust. One option would be the MVVS 15 GFS/R ABC which is a 91 (15cc). Would appreciate any feedback on this engine or other options to consider that may offer rear exhaust for a sport aerobatic plane, not a racer. Would very much like to fit the silencer within the cowl. Cheers Ray
Posted on: 8/15/2010 9:28 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9936048

SSRCC Bridgewater, MA Scale Fly-In
The SSRCC Scale Contest is coming August 22 The “South Shore R/C Club” in Bridgewater, Massachusetts is pleased to announce that we will again hold our very highly regarded “Great New England Scale Fly-In” at our club field on Sunday, August 22nd. This event has been a traditional SSRCC event and historically has been one of the finest scale events in the Northeast. The event is open to ALL scale aircraft. Awards will be given to the best scale aircraft in the following categories: Best World War I from a kit or scratch built Best World War I from an ARF Best World War II from a kit or scratch built Best World War II from an ARF Best Civil, Military (post WWII), Sport, Aerobatic or other documented aircraft And, we will be presenting “The Hank Iltzsch Award” for the “Grand Champion Best Overall scale aircraft. All aircraft entered must fly at least one circuit in order to be judges for prizes. It does not matter who fly’s the aircraft. There will be numerous aircraft on static display including Giant Scale aircraft presenting the latest in Giant Scale Technology. Food and beverages will be available on site for a nominal donation and a noontime airshow will provide entertainment for the whole family. Directions to our flying field and more information on the event may be found at our club website http://www.ssrcc.org/ www.ssrcc.org Ray
Posted on: 8/10/2010 10:23 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9914031

RE: Density altitude?
Hi A good example of density altitude was the experience of the Wright Brothers at SIMMS Station in Ohio in the spring of 1904 and the problems they had getting the 1904 Flyer to fly. This is from a interesting book: "Kill Devil Hill Discovering the secret of the Wright Brothers" by Harry Combs and Martin Caidin. The following is from pages 238 to 240. 1. On December 17, 1903 at Kitty Hawk the temperature was 34 degres F. at first time flight which produced a density altitude of 1800 feet below sea level. THe wind was also high at 27 MPH so they were able to take off with a short track as they did not have to make a long run to acelerate the plane to flying speed. Ideal flying conditions. 2. The following spring at SIMMS Station in Ohio in May 1904, May 23 @ 81 degres F they struggled to take off and were not able to get the 1904 Flyer airborne because the density altitude was 2900 feet above sea level . At SIMMS Station at a stardard day, the density altitide is 815 feet. THey had also reduced the wing camber which reduced lift. They were not able to fly, other than short hops, thru the summer. 3. As the temperature dropped later in the fall they had much better success but the main reason was that in September 1904 they constructed a catalput that gave the airplane enough acceleration to get airborne on the track as power was marginal. As the air cooled in the Autumn the flights became longer. THeir longest flight in 1904 was on December 1, which lasted 5 minutes and 8 seconds. Cheers Ray
Posted on: 7/30/2010 8:30 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9900053

RE: TRITON EQ Balance Port Connector
Thanks. Ray
Posted on: 7/19/2010 9:24 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9875382

TRITON EQ Balance Port Connector
I recently purchased a Triton EQ charger and it works quite nicely. I have used the adapter cables to interface with an E-FLITE 3S Lithium battery but will be making a simpler interface cable. I have ordered the JST connectors from DIGIKEY for the balance port on the battery but would like to connect the balance port directly to the charger. My question is what is the connector type for the 7 pin balance port receptacle on the side of the unit? Ray
Posted on: 7/19/2010 8:16 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9875192

RE: Balsa USA vs Arizona Model...
Hi I have a Balsa USA Nieuport 28C1 that I built several years ago and fly it fairly regularly. The kit went together well and the directions were very helpful. I have been VERY VERY happy with it. As I recall the hardest part was to get the stringers from the rear of the cockpit to the tail lined up so they looked right. No big deal but just took time. It has a flat bottomed airfoil and is pretty light. Flys almost like a trainer with the SAITO 150 at half throttle. A SAITO 120, or other similar sized engine would have been fine. Used the spun aluminum cowl from BALSA USA. The jig for the cabanes worked out well. Be sure to use Stay Brite solder on the Cabane music wire. If you fly it is any kind of wind go for a lot of aileron/rudder travel and use lots of expo. It does tend to blow around but all WW1 planes do. Be sure to install the 2/56 wires to support the stab/rudder as this area is a bit weak but OK. Particularly where the front of the Stabilizer joins the fuselage. Keep the tail as light as you can as the nose moment is quite short. All in all I have been very happy. I would recommend it as a first WW1 type kit . Ray
Posted on: 7/9/2010 10:12 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9855194

RE: soldering
HiCouple of minor follow up suggestions to all the fine comments with Stay Brite solder and Flux.1. Be sure not to overheat the solder joint. If the Stay Brite Flux turns black it is too hot.2. If the solder is not flowing well then give it a small shot of additional flux, even while hot, and most of the time the solder will flow nicely.3. When done, and the joint is cooled off, give it a small shot from a small plastic bottle of Baking Soda and water solution to neutralize the acid.4. Then clean the joint in running water and it should be bright and shiney.For music wire solder joints I find that a propane torch is way too much heat. Most of the time I use a BENZOMATIC small handheld torch. Can control the area that is heated very well. For brazing using real silver solder a MAPP gas torch works well with white flux. Both from McMaster CARRJust some suggestions.Ray
Posted on: 6/20/2010 10:31 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9816326

RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister
Hi Got five flights from the Bucker today and it went very well. [;)][;)] Appreciate support from John Glezellis it getting it trimmed out. CG was right on and just had to scale back the elevator/aileron travel a bit and increase the expo. On the MOKI 210 started with a 20 X10 prop but changed to a 22 x 8 and was a bit better so will stick with the 22 x 8 wood prop from now on. Flys nicely at about half throttle and no bad habits at low speed. At least so far.... Next step is to finish the text markings and N number. Some pictures from the field below. Was an excellent day... :-)
Posted on: 6/2/2010 8:47 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9776956

RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister
Hi Ken I think I know why it came out a bit tail heavy. What I have been doing is placing it on the bench and have two people lift it up at the CG point and see if it hangs level which it seemed to. To do this a different way I blocked up the plane on the bench, sitting on the landing gear, with the bottom wing at zero degrees using a Robart incidence meter. Measured the stab/elevator and it is very close to zero degrees. THe top wing measured just about -1 degree. Prop looks to be vertical. Looking at it this way the tail is pretty high up off the table. With the plans reduced to 29% the CG point is supposed to be about a half an inch behind the rear cabane. When we now lifted it up at the CG point the wheels came up first followed by the tail. My expectation is that it should just come up off the wheels and tail wheel at the same time. Whoops.... What I did next was move the RCV battery pack forward to just behind the fire wall and added about 7 oz of lead up front. Doing it this way the front wheels and the tail wheel both came up at the same time which seems perfect. The impact was to move the CG point forward about 5/8 of an inch to where it should be. Or at least I hope so. If the weather is OK next Wed I will get together with John and give it a whirl. Cheers Ray
Posted on: 5/30/2010 8:51 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9769812

RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister
Hi First flight today with the Bucker. Engine ran fine but was a bit tail heavy. Sort of exciting at first. Needed some down elevator trim for level flight. Balanced per the plans and double checked with the guys at the field so not sure what is going on but will be moving the RCV battery forward tomorrow to move the CG up a bit. Had a bit of crosswind but tracked just OK on takeoff. Once the tail pops up was good to go. Ran with a bit of throttle to right rudder mixing so maybe that helped. Plane made it down in one piece and everything looks fine so in a couple of days will go at it again and should be much better. John Glezellis was a great help which I really appreciate. :-) Neglected to take any pictures at the field so next time should have pictures. All in all a good day and I am very happy . :-) Ray
Posted on: 5/29/2010 10:14 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9768105

RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister
Thanks for the response. BobH As Big_Bird noted the second picture is from the real U79. Included it as a reference point for the font type. I have it, and some other pictures, as follow up from the contact info. Big_Bird supplied a while back for the owner who is a really nice fellow. Big_Bird Thanks for the info on the markings. That is a real help. The engine is a MOKI 210. Spent a fair amount of time trying to find an engine that would fit within the cowl without cutouts. The glow plug aligns with one of the "rocker bumps" on the cowl. This last week I have been breaking in the engine and setting the needle/low end mixture. I hope to fly it in the next week or so. Next step will be the markings and such. It has been an interesting build. The information in this thread has been a huge help. :-) Cheers Ray
Posted on: 5/25/2010 6:32 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9758906

RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister
Hi I have been working on a 29% version of the Gary Allen plans painted as U79. I am at the point of doing the fuselage markings and I am looking for the correct German stencil font. Was hoping that somebody might be able to point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance. ray
Posted on: 5/25/2010 7:47 AM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9757541

RE: Balsa
Hi I have been very happy with National Balsa. DElivery was quick and excellent quality. Ray
Posted on: 2/4/2010 10:18 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9477193

RE: Sigs Koveral sealing ??
scalenutz Read your post about Klasskote over Nitrate. I am working on a 30% scale BU-133 biplane from the 30's so there are lots of fabric areas. I have had good experience using Klasskote paint so would like to keep using it. When using Klasskote over Nitrate dope did you have any issues with the paint coming off with masking tape, or 3M blue tape, used to outline markings? Or any small cracks forming? Did you thin out the Nitrate say 50/50 with thinner? Would likely use either Koverall or STITS polyester covering and SIG Nitrate dope. I would likely attach the covering to the balsa with the Nitrate dope. Before using the Nitrate for attaching the covering would apply a coat or two of Nitrate to the bare balsa like back in the old days when I was building A1 Towline gliders or Free Flight. Appreciate any feedback. Ray
Posted on: 12/9/2009 9:35 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9317837

RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister
Correction on desired Stab incidence: Garry A. reviewed the original plans and sent me an E-Mail. The stab should be at 0 degrees, not - 1 degree. Interesting that when I checked the stab incidence on the fuselage I built per the plans it measured at 0 degrees. He also mentioned that for the 33% version the scale wheel size is 5.5 inches, not 6 inches as shown on the plan. Cheers ray
Posted on: 10/6/2009 8:26 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9152281

RE: Gary Allen 33% Bücker Jungmeister
Gentleman Gary A. was kind enough to reply to an E-Mail. Upper wing and stab are both -1 degree, and the lower wing is 0 degree relative to the center (thrust) line. Just like the plans. I have a long way to go on my build as at this point the fuselage is framed up , the lower center wing section is built and I am at the point of adding the stab/fin. Having fun. Cheers Ray
Posted on: 10/5/2009 7:59 PM by Author "bunsen" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9149496