|
RE: Smoked motor - suitable replacement?
I have a White Star. I had a 400 size motor in it at first as well. Min was a 7.2 volt though, and I ran it on an ESC. It was OK at slow speeds but got really darn hot at full power. It look like you did what I did. I cooked my speed 400 and then installed a 550 turbo. Goes really fast. Although it was really heavy and killed the battery fast. I ended up getting another 400 size motor with a 3:1 gear reduction. The thing flies and doesn't get too hot. If I were you id go for a 400 size motor with a gear reduction and run it on 3 cells. Longer run time and wont be too fast. Seeing as you don't have RC speed control the motor will always run at full power so stopping a boat going as fast as mine does cold be dangerous. Video of my White Star. [url]http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Videos/?action=view¤t=Eyelevel.flv[/url] A couple of cool pics. You can see how running the motor on all 6 cells might not be a good idea. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/IMG_2353-1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/IMG_2070s.jpg[/IMG] Cheers,
Posted on: 8/5/2009 5:03 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8992851
RE: Invader Tug
I don't know anything about the tug, but I would think the airplane starters might not be a good idea. They draw quite a bit of power which would kill your run time. they might not like to be continuously run for a long periods of time either. The one I have says not to run it for more than 30 seconds at a time, and it draws about 15 amps. I am thinking that you could get more power out of a smaller unit that is designed for extended runs and draws less. I'm just thinking here. Personally I would not go in that direction, but maybe it is a fine solution. Get a couple more opinions on that one before you make your choice. Cheers,
Posted on: 7/27/2009 5:11 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8968398
RE: Fully Operational Right Angle Drive
Thanks,
Posted on: 7/24/2009 6:47 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8961180
RE: Fully Operational Right Angle Drive
Well, it was noted today at the northwest reaggatta that I had not show any video of the completed RADs operating from a mechanical standpoint. Both of these clips are of the No. 1 end RADs. s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/ And the very early stages of programing and creating a proper control system. s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/ Cheers,
Posted on: 6/7/2009 3:11 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8831946
RE: Why do people like building tugs?
My Uncles Mister Darby pulls my dads 20' deep-vee boat along at a pretty god pace. Thats really cool. When I get around to building a tug I'm going to build a pulling machine. I want to be able to pull around a 8'x4' barge full of gravel, and there is no reason why I wnt be able to do it wiht ahull like the Darby's. Cheers,
Posted on: 6/6/2009 12:15 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8829438
RE: Free hull designer
I've used Delftship for my scale projects. Has some pretty usefull features. http://www.delftship.net/ Cheers,
Posted on: 5/29/2009 3:33 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8809277
RE: scale
The easiest way is to just divide by the scale. so a 1/14 model of a 12.67m ship would be: 12.67 / 1 / 14 = 0.905m or 90.5cm Again A 1/60 model of 114.8m ship would be: 114.8 / 1 / 60 = 1.9133m or 191.33cm A littel more complex, A 3/16 model of a 57.95m ship would be: 57.95 / 3 / 16 = 1.2073m or 120.73cm You will not that my number is 0.25cm different than what Dan got, myn is more accurate because I didn;t convert back and forth between Metric and Imperial. Never switcdh back and forth between systems. Choose one system for your calculation and then in the end convert to what you want to use for your plans. Its pretty simple. If you have imperial dimensions of your ship make sure to convert the feet into inches. So a 375'11" ship at 1/50 scale would be. 375' x 12 + 11" = 4511" 4511 / 1 / 50 = 90.22" Cheers,
Posted on: 5/29/2009 3:15 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8809247
RE: Fully Operational Right Angle Drive
Tonight I tested the ship in the hot-tub with all 4 RADs. They worked great, but that wasn't enough for me. So, me and my brother took her to the city pond. The lily pad flowers were a pain but if I could avoid them I got to see her true power and maneuverability. I am very happy with her. She is very hard to control with the current setup, but should be better after the computer system is built in the future. Ohh yeah, she doesn't leak either. The very first footage of her on the open water. [link=http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Videos/?action=view¤t=OpenWater.flv]Operational Video[/link]
Posted on: 5/1/2009 12:18 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8730777
RE: Fully Operational Right Angle Drive
I'm trying to design some sort of a dial system, but it is not a simple task. For know I will just have to pay attention and guess where they are. My website is back up and running. cheers,
Posted on: 4/22/2009 2:19 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8704240
RE: Has Anyone Converted A Plastic Model To R/C?
Well, the "big build" is a 1:60 scale model of MV Queen of Chilliwack. She is a 375'11" double ended ferry that operates on the Northern coast of BC. I've been back on that lately, and only got the hull painted and some of the electronics installed in the hull of the titanic. I have pretty much cut out every piece of plastic I can afford to live without so far. And am hoping that it will work out alright, but like I said the "Chilliwack" has been taking up a tonne of time lately. Cheers,
Posted on: 4/19/2009 7:39 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8696683
RE: Fully Operational Right Angle Drive
Well, I finally have the No. end RADs complete. Not a very easy thing to build, it takes quite some time to get the gear to mesh nicely. I don't have a CNC or a very nice lathe so My tolerances are quite high. So everything has to be tweaked when assembled. [link=http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/?action=view¤t=Movie_0002.flv]Video of RADs Operating[/link] Cheers,
Posted on: 4/6/2009 10:21 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8656238
RE: Better reverse steering control!
Looks like I have a project for tomorrow. Ill make sure to take a bunch of pictures. How big of a moter can you run of a standard servo board? Do you think I could put an amp through one? I've got one of the graupner bow thrusters but it is way to big and would sink my bow way to much. Cheers,
Posted on: 4/4/2009 1:42 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8647063
RE: Better reverse steering control!
I was thinking of a rudder in front of the prop, but that would be harder to do and would impede the flow of water to the prop when going forward. I'm thinking of making an extension for the main rudder just to see what happens. really I want a bow thruster, but my boat is too small to house it and the extra required components unless i build a very small one that runs on a servo motor. HMM. I think I have an idea for a fun little project. Micro bow thruster. Would be quite easy to build out of styrene. Cheers,
Posted on: 4/4/2009 1:22 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8647029
Better reverse steering control!
Hi, I've had this boat for some time now, and it has gone through a few complete mechanical and 1 cosmetic refit since I built it almost 10 years ago. She is getting very close to running perfectly except she has little to no steering control while she is in reverse. I'm wondering if anyone knows a way to get better control in reverse out of a single shaft setup. I'm using a 3 blade 40mm prop and the rudder is 0.75mm brass as seen in the picture. Cheers,
Posted on: 4/3/2009 10:14 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8646556
RE: Making a row boat
[link=http://nwrcsm.freeyellow.com/Servo%20Mods%20for%20bi%20directional%20control.pdf]Click Here[/link] This is what you want to do. Very easy to do. and would allow for you to put a disk on the output to circulate the oars. It will function just like a DC motor with an ESC the more you push the stick off center the faster it goes, and when it is returned to center it will stop. The only problem is that it is only variable speed for about 20% of the sticks travel from center so you might want to adjust the end points in your transmitter to get better control. cheers,
Posted on: 3/28/2009 7:50 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8626771
RE: Fully Operational Right Angle Drive
I don't want to seem like a jerk, but I have done a tonne of research on this ship, I have been given the privilege by her officers and crew as well as the managing company BCF to have any information I would like. I spent 3 days aboard her last summer and during that time I was allowed to take the helm and feel how she responds and is controlled. I was taken down into the bowels of the ship and was standing inside of the RAD housing and next to the engines. I can say I am quite the expert on the vessel with ease. Of course any input is great, but I have seen how it works ont he real ship and would like to make myn work that way too. Actually, the Rads in the real ship are mounted perpendicular to the hull NOT the waterline, of course they are perpendicular in to the waterline when facing backwards. When the RADs point along the axis of the hull IE. going straight they are perfectly lined up with the waterline, but when they are pushing sideways they are not perpendicular to the hull. It actually doesn't matter if the RADs are lined up with the waterline or not when going sideways, all of the forces will act around the ships center of gravity and will cause the same amount of roll as if they were lined up with the waterline, It will roll in any situation. You could argue that it would be more efficient to have the thrust vector line up with the waterline for more sideways speed, but not for roll. Also, the ones int he real ship aren't streamlined so I don't want to make it untrue to the real vessel. Just a couple of notes on the real Queen of Chilliwack as to help put the ships performance into respect. -375'11" long, double ended, passenger/car ferry -Class 1 icebreaker -Built 1977 in Norway out of recycled naval vessels. -4 1100HP 6 cyl. diesel engines at about 520 shaft RPM -Maximum speed 14.2 knts -Most efficient speed 10.8 knts on rear 2 engines at about 60% power each - forward 2 RADs freewheeling with engines off and disengaged. You can see that the ship is a pig, its not a performance vessel of any sort. Already from the, little time I have had the one RAD operational in the hot tub I have found her to have comparable power to the real ship, and of course on only one RAD. She will be quite powerful once all 4 RADs are completed. And when I do there will be footage and pics to share. Cheers,
Posted on: 2/15/2009 5:38 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8480095
Fully Operational Right Angle Drive
Well, I finally decided to share my RAD project. I've been working on this for quite some time and am very happy with the results I am getting. The project started with a requirement for operation RADs in my model of the Queen of Chilliwack. All of the commercially available parts didn't fit my requirements. So I built my own RAD. The RAD is machined out of 1/2" and 3/4" brass stock and the shafts and sleeves are dumas 1/8 drive shafts and sleeves. The gears are supplied by SDP-SI, as well as the belts. Servo is a Hitec Continuous rotation servo, and the magnetic potentiometer is supplied by US Digital. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_0150.jpg[/IMG] Lower gear casing. Those are #0 hex head cap screws, the pilot hole that was drilled for the thread tap was a 3/64" hole. The threads are so small that you can barely tell they are there. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_0151.jpg[/IMG] Lower gear casing. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_0152.jpg[/IMG] Lower gear casing. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_0153.jpg[/IMG] In hull mounted casing. (Fiberglassed into hull. Rad rotates inside the Tube.) [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_0155.jpg[/IMG] Upper Shaft Casing and through hull component. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_0156.jpg[/IMG] Upper Shaft Casing and through hull component. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_1404.jpg[/IMG] Machining a part. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_0478.jpg[/IMG] Rotating setup. Toothed timing belt on a continuous rotation servo with a 1/2 drive reduction. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_0260.jpg[/IMG] Leg assembled and installed in hull. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_0261.jpg[/IMG] Leg assembled and installed in hull. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/IMG_0262.jpg[/IMG] Leg assembled and installed in hull. [link=http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/Rads/?action=view¤t=Movie.flv]RADs in action[/link] Cheers,
Posted on: 2/11/2009 6:21 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8463955
RE: Fully Operational Right Angle Drive
Thanks guys, The black screws are stainless steel. Its a lot of work to get these things going, such a pain in the @$$. The results are worth it though. When I am completly finished I will post some a full set of drawings so that anyone can build one if they want. I chose to go from solid brass stock as it is easy to machine yet still very strong. The only issues IU've had pertain tot he fact that the thing is about 7/8" long and 1.5" tall. The Queen of Chilliwack has the exact same propulsion set up as the ship in those pictures Umi. I have 4 RADs, 2 at each end, with each end being independent of the other. As for the website, its running on a POS computer in my basement, so I guess I'll have to take a look at it. I think my router has screwed up since our last power surge. Cheers,
Posted on: 2/11/2009 6:18 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8466209
RE: Scale Fluorescent Lights
All of the tube ideas seem like they could work. I'll try some of them out on the weekend and see what kind of a result I get. I don't have the exact count right know but I believe my model requires over 20 of them so I want it to be cheap, and you cant get much cheaper than small white LEDs and styrene tubing. Thanks guys,
Posted on: 1/26/2009 7:14 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8404840
Scale Fluorescent Lights
Hi, Does anyone have any ideas on how to create 1/60th scale fluorescent tube lights? I was thinking about some kind of fiber optic tube with lights at the ends, but I don't know if that will emit out the sides. Any help is much appreciated. Cheers,
Posted on: 1/21/2009 2:27 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8382900
RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
Hi, The reason I feel for you guys and your loss of the Dauntless, is that I am going through the same troubles up here in Canada. I have always been obsessed with the BC Ferry fleet. Just last year the second ship ever built by the BC government MV Queen of Tsawwassen was sold at an age of 48 to a private owner, she is being converted to a Heli-logging camp and will over the next few years fall into a state of unknown location, shame and disrepair. What was once a very proud vessel is going to turn into a pile of rusty steel. SO, while I may not be a Dauntless fan I am a fan of a vessel that I would compare to the Dauntless. I feel for you guys and am sorry you did not have a chance to obtain her before the owner did what he did. You guys could have actually purchased your baby, mine was sold for 1.2 million, so it is to bad you guys didn't get a fair chance to purchase and maybe restore her. Cheers,
Posted on: 1/18/2009 4:22 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8372885
RE: the unofficial home of the dumas dauntless
It is always sad to hear of a piece of history, and such a gorgeous vessel at that. But the quality and detail of these models astounds me. Why do we need the real vessel when we have beautiful exact replicas here. Cheers, and great work!
Posted on: 1/16/2009 7:41 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8366493
RE: difference between "AA" and "C" cells
I kinda figured it was to do with current delivery. Thanks Guys,
Posted on: 1/9/2009 1:22 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8338487
difference between "AA" and "C" cells
Hi I was at the local Canadian Tire waiting for my brother to find a new alarm clock and found myself staring at Energizer NiMH rechargeable batteries. I noticed that the "AA" cell batteries had a 2450MaH rating, the "C" cell batteries were 2450 MaH as well and the "D" cell batteries were 2500 MaH. So, I am wondering what is the point of getting heavier and more expensive "D" or "C" cells when the "AA" cell delivers just as much as the "C" and a little less than the "D" and weighs much less as well? Cheers,
Posted on: 1/8/2009 11:37 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "Speed - Electric"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8336835
RE: Springer Tugs
Umi, the panel is great, what material did you cast it in? I would like to try that myself. Cheers,
Posted on: 1/7/2009 6:16 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8331298
RE: Water Temperature, does it matter?
Well just today I ran my cruiser. Air temperature was - 12. Water temperature was -6 (The current int he stream kept it from freezing). She runs on lipos so I did keep it warm in the truck until she hit the water, but after that there was only 1/16" of plastic between the battery and the water. Made sure to keep the motor going so it would draw current and keep it warm. The battery was still warm when she got out so it looks like a success, I have built a Canadain all weather sailor.. She breaks ice pretty good too. [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/SOCL/IMG_0219.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/SOCL/IMG_0220.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/SOCL/IMG_0221.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc278/queenofchilliwack/SOCL/IMG_0222.jpg[/IMG] Cheers,
Posted on: 1/3/2009 9:24 PM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Boats General Discussion"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8315088
RE: Has Anyone Converted A Plastic Model To R/C?
I've bought the Minicraft 1:350 Titanic and will be trying to build an RC model out of it. Should be a fun tchallenge. My big build is kinda slow at the moment, I am waiting for parts to be machined and general figurin. Cheers,
Posted on: 11/26/2008 2:28 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8184477
RE: Has Anyone Converted A Plastic Model To R/C?
I've read the thread a few times. I was wondering specific to this model because she could be a little top heavy, due to the stacks. I think I'm going to go for it, worst case i end up with another titanic Display model. Cheers,
Posted on: 11/21/2008 1:19 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8168432
RE: Has Anyone Converted A Plastic Model To R/C?
Has anyone converted the Academy 1:400 RMS Titanic or the Minicraft 1:350 Titanic? I thought that would be a cool build. Would take some fine work to get the props running and the rudder to work, but I think its doable.
Posted on: 11/20/2008 3:21 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8165204
RE: Styrene Applications in RC Shipbuilding
OK well my bondo comes in 5 gallon steel pails. I do mix it on plastic though. Some of my surfaces are 3'x2' in dimension so there has to be seam in the styrene sheets. Thanks again guys, And if anyone is interested my model can be seen here: [link]http://www.queenofchilliwack.ca[/link]
Posted on: 9/11/2008 12:37 AM by Author "cadmunkey"
in the forum "RC Scale Boating"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7942288
| 
