NitroPlanes.com Crappy products and service to match
Awhile back I bought a nitroplanes.com version of a Sig Kadet Senior arf. It was less than half what the Sig version cost so I gave it a shot. It was actually a nice looking airplane and flew really well for about 20 flights until the wing folded. When I assembled it I decided to glue the wings together because the wing joiner they provided seemed pretty lame. Using Gorilla glue I got a good strong bond on the joiner and wing panels. Last week I had a student on the buddy box and with no warning the wing just folded in half at about 200 feet high. The fuse went ballistic straight down and everything in the fuse was completely destroyed including the engine. I contacted nitroplanes to tell them about it and sent detailed pictures of the wing failure. The response was " Since the order is a year old there's nothing we can do " To be truthful, that is what I expected to hear because I've read many threads here about them. I'm posting this to confirm what so many already know - stay away from nitromodels.com!
Posted on: 9/11/2012 5:39 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "User Product Reviews"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11225564

RE: Canopy for a Midwest 1/6 AT-6
Thanks! Ordered them today.
Posted on: 1/27/2012 4:38 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10931311

Canopy for a Midwest 1/6 AT-6
Anyone know where I might find a canopy for a Midwest 1/6 AT-6?
Posted on: 1/25/2012 8:48 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10928131

RE: Those pesky paypal fees
WOW! So many with bad Paypal experiences. I love Paypal! Paying 3% to get your money now is a no brainer for me plus, they usually have already screened the person your dealing with so you don't have to worry. I have a small in home business from which I sell online and I also travel to different r/c events to pedal my wares. I used to take credit card but the fees the credit card companies charged me were so outrageous I dropped them and went exclusively to Paypal. I have done hundreds of transactions using Paypal and have NEVER had a problem being the seller or the buyer. One time I got sold the same set of servos twice by an unscrupulous seller. Two e-mails to Paypal and the money was back in my account. They have never put a hold on my money for any reason and I've never heard of that from anyone except for here.
Posted on: 1/16/2012 9:26 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10912763

RE: Midwest 1/5 AT-6,,,,, I think??
Yes, the old Kalt had plenty of power although it will never ser any speed records. We used an APC 17x6 which seemed perfect. WOT rpm was 8,000. All 3 flights ended with dead stick though. We suspect an air leak in the carb or a dirty screen so I'm going to buy a carb kit and rebuild it before our next flight. Here's a picture. She's not a show plane, just a flyer. I'd like to replace the cowl. Anyone know where to get one? I'll have to post the picture later. Can't seem to do it with my phone.
Posted on: 3/7/2011 9:10 AM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10384361

RE: Midwest 1/5 AT-6,,,,, I think??
Flew the AT6 today and all went well. The old Kalt 22 fired right up. Went with Chad's recommended cg at 5.5"back from the LE and it was perfect. It will drop a wing if turned too slowly but I wouldn't call it snappy. Thanks for the tips Chad.
Posted on: 3/6/2011 6:47 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10383400

RE: Midwest 1/5 AT-6,,,,, I think??
Chad, Thanks for the info and link. I read most of that thread and feel your recommended cg will be fine. After reading the thread I am more worried about it being under powered with the old Kalt 22. Back to balancing,,,,When I put it on the balancer I can't get it to stay level. It wants to tilt forward or back. I've done it upright with the gear down and inverted with the gear up and I can't get it to hold center either way. Any thoughts? Here's another question for you. I went to test the existing fuel system and sure enough it leaked gas into the fuse. I should have known better and just replummed it first. It was just an ounce or less but it really stinks and hours later it still stinks. Any trick to getting the stink out?
Posted on: 3/4/2011 6:53 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10379497

RE: Midwest 1/5 AT-6,,,,, I think??
Chad, If the weather breaks we may get out this Sunday but here in the NW it's a crap shoot. I did pull 5 ozs off of the firewall. It now seems to be a lot closer than before but it's hard to say. It won't stay level on the stand which makes me believe it could be at dead center. That's great for an aerobatic airplane, not so much for a warbird. Do you happen to know where Midwest says the cg should be?
Posted on: 3/3/2011 9:44 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10377922

RE: Midwest 1/5 AT-6,,,,, I think??
Chad, Are you sure about the cg being 5.5" back of the LE? I don't want to sound skeptical but on the balancer that makes mine extremely nose heavy. I'm all for losing weight but it's so much that it worries me. The original builder probably balanced to Midwest specs so I'm cautious about that first flight. We all know what happens to tail heavy warbirds. Did you balance yours right side up or inverted? I have the retracts extended.
Posted on: 3/3/2011 4:17 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10377286

RE: Crazy servo jumping with AR7000 and Jr 8103
I would stop using 4.8volt batteries and switch everything on 2.4 over to 6volt. If you have a voltage drop with 4.8volts your receiver can experience a brown-out.
Posted on: 2/28/2011 4:16 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10370458

RE: Kalt (Zenoah)G-22 what prop??
Spaceworm Thanks for posting this article. Very good info.
Posted on: 2/28/2011 4:00 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10370407

RE: Kalt (Zenoah)G-22 what prop??
Thanks Stuka! Good info.
Posted on: 2/27/2011 8:34 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10368747

Kalt (Zenoah)G-22 what prop??
I've acquired an old G-Kalt 22 gas engine. I think it's the precursor to a Zenoah G-23. Anyone know anything about these like, what prop, rpm and will it fly a 16 pound warbird?
Posted on: 2/26/2011 6:47 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10366087

RE: Midwest 1/5 AT-6,,,,, I think??
Chad, Good info, especially the cg info. I've heard these were pretty snappy at slow speed.
Posted on: 2/22/2011 9:31 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10356965

Midwest 1/5 AT-6,,,,, I think??
I picked up what I think is a Midwest 1/5 scale AT-6 the other day. It's got an 82" ws and is around 56" long. With it's current engine it weighs right at 15 pounds of which 2-3 pounds is added nose weight. I'm looking for the correct cg and any other info that I should know. It's got an old Kalt 22 which I think is an early Zenoah. Will this engine fly it? 15 pounds seems like a lot for a 22 cc engine. Also, it doesn't have flaps which seems strange for a kit this big. Any info is much appreciated.
Posted on: 2/22/2011 8:49 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10356894

RE: Flame Out on a Twin - What do you do?
[quote]ORIGINAL: jmohn Use electric engines they always work [:D] Jeff [/quote] I seriously considered electrics but when I added up the cost of going that way it was more than all I have in the airplane now, just for the power portion. I also like the sound of twin glow engines better.
Posted on: 6/3/2010 9:47 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9779369

RE: Flame Out on a Twin - What do you do?
Thanks guys. It all sounds like good advice. I hadn't thought of differential ailerons so I'll be sure and add that. The engines are .46 Magnum XL's with 11x7 APC 2-blades. I've always had good luck with Magnums but if I could find them, I'd be running OS.46 SF's. I never could understand why OS dropped the best 2-stroke they ever made.
Posted on: 6/3/2010 8:37 AM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9777903

Flame Out on a Twin - What do you do?
I'm getting ready to maiden my nice new Mossy. It's an ARF but it was still a lot of work (for me) and a lot of $$$ (again, for me). Add to this it's our first twin. My son, who's quicker on the reflex thing, will be flying it first time out. We've broken in the engines on a cheap Twin Star and feel pretty good on how they are running, but with such a small rudder, I'm scared to death of a flame out. That all being said, what do you experienced twin guys do in case of a flame out? Chop power? KILL power? Increase power?
Posted on: 6/2/2010 11:52 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9777395

RE: Need 3.5
Try Hobby-Lobby.
Posted on: 6/1/2010 4:13 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9773900

RE: Need 3.5
Perfect! Thanks Bob.
Posted on: 6/1/2010 1:22 AM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9772609

Need 3.5" Black or White Spinners
I'm trying to find 3.5" spinners for my Mossy. It's powered by two .46 glow engines. Any help is appreciated! Thanks
Posted on: 6/1/2010 12:49 AM by Author "catboater" in the forum "RC Warbirds and Warplanes"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9772575

Robart Mnfg. Crappy Service
I recently had to order a few parts for some Robart landing gear I own. It took 3 tries to finally get to speak to someone on the phone who said the parts were in stock and they'd get my order right out. After 3 more calls asking where my parts were they finally arrived 3 1/2 weeks later. Now if I were ordering from Hong Kong I'd expect a long week but Robart is in Ill. for God's sake! It seems that this American company isn't too concerned with customer service after the sale,,,,,,I don't know. Anyone else out there have this experience, or did I just catch them on a bad MONTH?
Posted on: 4/11/2010 3:12 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9653175

RE: How do you pull servo extensions in an assembled wing?
I am happy to report that we got the servo lead pulled using the pull chain technique. It took awhile and 3 different guys trying but we finally got it through. We tried all the suggestions you submitted and they were all good ideas that I'll keep banked in my brain for the next time this happens. Thanks again guys! Chris
Posted on: 2/21/2010 7:30 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9524050

RE: How do you pull servo extensions in an assembled wing?
Scar, Great idea in theory, but the thread gets sucked part way in, then balls up and doesn't make it to the exit hole. It would work great with a straight pull and it did make for some great father-son time. My son sealed the wheel well and servo bay with masking tape and then cut a hole to fit the vac nozzle. The thread was sucked right in but our euphoria was short lived with no thread in the exit hole. I'll try the Q-Tip idea next and then the pull chain. They are all great ideas and would work on a more modern wing design. I don't know if the original builder cut the holes so small or if it's a Pica design but it's really tight in there. I really screwed myself with this one! I'll keep trying and report back the results.
Posted on: 2/16/2010 11:29 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9511054

How do you pull servo extensions in an assembled wing?
I was given an old 1/5th scale Pica Spitfire which I decided to replace all the servos in. I tied a string to the wire and pulled the left side but while doing the right side I dropped the new servo and the string came out of the wing. !@#$%^&*!!! Attaching a weight to some small diameter line and shaking the wing to find the holes just isn't working. The holes the builder threaded the wire through are barely big enough for the servo plugs. Add to that, it isn't a straight shot to the center of the wing. It bends around the wheel well. Do any of you have a magic bullet to fix this? The last hour of dicking with this has driven me crazy with nothing to show for it.
Posted on: 2/16/2010 8:49 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9510601

RE: DX7 Crash
Interesting reading here guys. ARF WRECKER- I hear you about QQ. We bought the 100cc Yak right before he went to Horizon and I'm not too happy about that either. About the DX 7. I've just finished up a 25% Super Cub and was programming the radio tonight. Instead of an AR 700 I'm using an AR 9000. After binding it with the DX 7 I had no servo control whatever. The binding process went as all the rest of my JR and Spektrum stuff did but still, no control. The lights would stop flashing and go solid as they should but still nothing. I didn't have the remote receiver installed so, on a whim, I plugged it in and everything started working. This really concerns me because the main receiver should work without a remote, shouldn't it? Another thing too, when it goes into failsafe the throttle goes to wide open everytime regardless off how many times I've rebound it with the throttle stick at idle. This is an early version of the DX 7 so I'm wondering if this was a problem that's been addressed and I haven't heard about it. Any ideas??
Posted on: 9/8/2009 12:34 AM by Author "catboater" in the forum "JR Radio & Spektrum Radios"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9077823

RE: Did I kill my RCS 1.40???
[quote]ORIGINAL: bcchi [quote]ORIGINAL: MOTORMAN37 He stated in his post that it was completely cooled and he still could not get it to do anything put backfire.[;)] I would start by checking the carb. It could be that rubber diaphrams need to be changed from sitting. That alone could cause it to not pump fuel correctly, which could also lead to the over heating issue. It is very unlikely that the over heating could hurt the carb.[;)] If it was mine I might look at the ignition sensor, to see if it has moved which would change the timing.[;)] [/quote] I would look at the piston and rings,how is the compression. BCCHI [/quote] The compression is not good now and I'll pull the piston soon and try a new ring. Frankly though, I think it's DOA.
Posted on: 7/5/2009 1:51 AM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8907320

RE: Did I kill my RCS 1.40???
I'm not sure what the cylinder is. My guess is steel, but who know. I'll try the muriatic acid and a new ring. Where do you get a Frank Boman ring?
Posted on: 7/5/2009 1:49 AM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8907314

RE: Did I kill my RCS 1.40???
Thanks for the replys guys. The carb was pumping fuel before it died but I'll do a rebuild just in case. The compression is low and after pulling the head I found some scoring in the cylinder. Not much, but still not good. Is it possible that one overheated run could damage the cylinder? I was using gas with a 50:1 ratio as recommended and there were some oil droplets on the fuse. Seems hard to believe that a gasser would give up the chase like a lean run on a 2 stroke.
Posted on: 7/3/2009 1:12 AM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8902746

Did I kill my RCS 1.40???
I finally got my new Super Cub completely finished and was running the engine in the driveway. Everything was working great so I decided to program a throttle curve. Sure enough, the engine overheated and stopped. I let it cool completely and now I can't get it to run at all. The best I can get is an occasional backfire. I checked for spark and have no problems there. It seems to not be getting fuel. Can overheating toast the carb?? Seems unlikely. This is a used engine and I don't know its history, but it ran fine on the test stand and great on the fuse until it overheated. Any ideas?[:o]
Posted on: 7/2/2009 9:06 PM by Author "catboater" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8902084