RE: Two Stroke Oil Detectives - a new project!
FWIW, my local stihl dealer gave me some grief when I tried to buy the ultra this summer. Seams they had been instructed to only sell it for use with their 4-MIX® engines. I went back later, avoided the question and bought some from a different counterman. Haven't used it yet, still finishing off my supply of a another brand of synthetic.
Posted on: 9/10/2009 11:59 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9085915

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
This one is for the horsepower fans out there. 80cc on the little sukhette. Vertical performance to spare! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOWCd8ZqZHk
Posted on: 8/19/2009 9:36 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9029523

RE: RCGF Engines
What is the correct NGK cross reference for the TorchL7RTc plug that came with my 26?
Posted on: 7/7/2009 7:43 AM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8912873

RE: A123 Battery Question.
I posted the same question in the "other" site. Responders suggested I discharge/charge the packs down to a nominal 6 volts. I did this several times with no changes to the 1100 pack and even drained the voltage down further. In doing this I did determine that the overall capacity of the pack has been reduced to about 700-800 mah. It appears that one cell in the pack is not up to par. I will keep this pack for use only for benchwork, a 25% reduction in capacity is not something I want to risk in the air. The other 2300 pack mentioned in the original post responded to the cycle treatment and was put back in service.
Posted on: 5/12/2009 1:46 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8762786

RE: RCGF Engines
I can confirm my 26 was the older design. This one came with the large spark plug and still had the plate on the cylinder covering the port for a side mount carb. I will eventually buy a new cap and adapter to allow using the small plugs. Does anyone have suggestions for a source for a exhaust header to fit this motor? I have a tuned pipe to try, just need the header.
Posted on: 5/5/2009 1:33 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8742841

A123 Battery Question.
I have several 2s packs made with Dewalt cells, both 2300 and 1100 VPX for use in my planes. All of these packs were assembled within the last few months, some by me, some were purchased. I am using the new fma multi-4 charger to balance charge these packs. I have two packs now that will not balance. One cell is consistantly reported as about 3.4 volts the other in the 3.6 range when the charger says its done after about 30 minutes. (the majority of the time is spent in the balancing cycle) Is this a serious issue showing that the packs should be tossed? Or should I continue using them? For the moment I am continuing use on my planes that are using dual battery packs, figuring that I have a backup just in case. So far no noticable change in the total battery drain after a flight session. Total ma's put back in each pack during charge has remained consistant. If this does show the packs need to be tossed, how would users charging with nonbalancing chargers like the formeco cube know?
Posted on: 5/4/2009 12:55 AM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8738530

RE: RCGF Engines
Another satisfied 26 customer reporting in. Ultra RC Katana maidened today after only one tankful of gas on the ground. The Kat weighs in at about 10 lbs 80z weight. Getting about 7350 on a Zinger 18x6 that I cut down to 17.25". Dependable idle down to 1500 or so and starts within a few flips. Even at this early stage hovering is posible with a little power left for pullot. Run-time and a better prop should make this agile little plane a 3D beast (at least way more capable than the pilot). The only mods made to the engine was flipping the carb over for my setup and soldering the hole in the choke plate shut to help the starting prime.
Posted on: 5/4/2009 12:19 AM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8738470

RE: What charger are you using A123 ?
I have just bought the FMA multicharger myself. This may be a improvement over the 4S, but the multi version will charge packs with or without balancing leads for both lipos or A123's. Other than having to add your connector to the charge lead or buying a adapter I have no complaints. Since i am only currently using 2S packs, I have converted all of my packs with balancing leads to the standard JR/futaba connectors. Now I can balance charge or not thru the regular charging jack on the my plane's switch just like the old days with Nicads. Wont work for 3S and above, but handy for 2S.
Posted on: 1/21/2009 2:05 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8384175

RE: Smart Fly PE Results
I also use a PE with one of my AR7000 mostly to cleanup the installation and also freeup a channel or two. I like the results and will probably use it more in future setups. I think the alternate to your rudder power problem would have been to wye in one of the battery leads beween the rudder and reciever. The reciever wouldn't care and the rudder servo would see very close to full battery voltage. Bet the final power consumption would be very close to the PE results.
Posted on: 1/17/2009 10:17 AM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8368179

RE: Single source for; ignition/reciever/servos
Tom, Just so I understand your setup, is the light duty lead you refer to the same as balancing leads as found in other setups or do you have two "normal" output leads on your pack with perhaps different wire gauge or conections?
Posted on: 1/6/2009 1:43 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8325761

RE: RCGF Engines
goirish, check the clearance between your standoffs and the carb. Also check that you will be able to get to the throttle and choke linkage. For my 26 setup I am close with 5/8"dowel to the linkages, so you may need to do some carving or use smaller standoff size.
Posted on: 12/30/2008 7:43 AM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8297747

RE: Desert Aircraft 50 cc. Anyone having problems with broken rings?
I would personally add a 3rd posibility to the list. Bad gas. As in bad from the pump, not from storage. Have you run your mixture or even straight gas from the same source in any of your other equipment?
Posted on: 7/17/2008 1:24 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Gas Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7741140

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
Just to clarify, I was refering to adjusting the stabilizer (fixed) side of the elevator, not the elevator control surfaces. This could be used to help with the trim issue and would have no particular impact on loop straightness.
Posted on: 6/5/2008 1:49 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7583868

RE: 50cc Sukhette Build Thread, now in progress!!
For those who are reporting needing aileron trim, I would suggest checking the incidence of the elevator halfves. I have not noticed any need for aileron trim on my Suk, but I think I remember finding the elevators off just a bit from side to side during assembly. If you find both sides true, you could still adjust one side of the elevator to reduce the amount of aileron trim you are currently using. Just a thought and an easy fix.
Posted on: 6/3/2008 1:29 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7574970

RE: Da 50 with mejilik 23 x 8
I run this prop with stock exhaust and get right at 6900, 40:1 gas mix. Motor is several years old. I wouldn't expect more than 6700 with a wrap around muffler, they do restrict the motor some compared to stock.
Posted on: 1/17/2008 9:30 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6925285

RE: Aeroworks 29% Katana with a 3W 75i?
Just be careful with your landing speeds or any during any other low air speed manuvers, stall speed will go up as wing loading increase. I had one with a DA50, so I was on the other side of the scale and needed nose weight. Should be an good craft for competition, I don't compete but the plane flew nice crisp lines with very little mixing needed.
Posted on: 11/28/2007 2:10 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "IMAC"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6686164

RE: DX-7 in your WildHare?
I got one of the first DX-7's in my area and have used it exclusively since in both electric and 50cc gassers. No problems at all. In my next build I will be using one of the new smartfly power systems to free up a channel or two and also eliminate using a separate regulator. My opinion of the DX-7 system.... [image][/image]
Posted on: 9/1/2007 1:01 AM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6313485

RE: Graphics Question
Thanks for the input. I agree with the fine line, I have tripped across it on more than one occasion when trying to freshen up previous craft. I had hoped that I was missing out on some trick to make the task a bit easier. The reason I posted the question is that the plane smashers delivered a nifty lil red/white suk at my door last week. The graphics package is quite extensive and will cover a large portion of the airframe. After the parts gods smile and the miracle of assembly occurs, I'm thinking that I will fly it naked for the first few sessions and then apply the graphics.
Posted on: 6/29/2007 1:16 AM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6049354

Graphics Question
A general question regarding vinyl graphics on film covered airplanes: Whats the best way to retighten the covering under the bling without ruining the graphic? The covering on every plane I've had to date eventually needed some attention here and there regardless of covering brand or who applied it. Always seems worst for new planes and the first exposure to summer heat. If only limited graphics are involved you can usually work around the area a get good results. How do you handle this if the graphics coverage is more general and spread out over a large area?
Posted on: 6/28/2007 1:28 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "WildHare R/C Support"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6046373

RE: worldmodels 50cc Katana
It is my understanding that this is the same plane that aroworks? used to sell. I was even refered to WM for a replacement cowling for my AW katana. Alas the plane met it's demise a few months ago but all in all was a very decent plane to fly. The smaller wing makes fo a slightly higher wing loading than an extra or edge, but I did not notice any bad traits in performance. Mine would hover with ease with a DA50 and do all of the limited 3d that i am capable of. I would suggest looking back on old threads for the AW katana for more info.
Posted on: 6/8/2007 3:04 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5961858

RE: Extreme Flight E-YAK!!!
My experiences with this plane: I have also have one of these planes from the first shipment flying on the 3S EF combo. The craft has been abused to the max but still flys like a champ. If you fly off grass go ahead and replace the wheels from the get go. Like others one of mine shattered on one of the early flights. Bigger wheels are also desireable to improve ground handling in the grass, I often end up on my lid after landing or nose over trying to get back to the pits. The stock LG gear will bend quite easily during less than perfect landings. I didn't like this at first but I have straightened the gear in just a few minutes numerous times and have yet to damage the fuse, so I have a about decided this is a good thing. I am using a alum MPI spinner I nearly completely trashed mine after an unexplained faliure of some type, rebuilt one wing, fuse front, CA'd cowling back to shape, patched canopy etc all using mostly the original pieces found at the crash site. Be carefull if you need to use a iron on the covering, it appears to be chinacoat variety and will melt/shrink to nothing in a heartbeat. I know the darn thing can't be true and square, but it still flies just as good as new. I will get a replacement from EF when I finally "use up" this one. I have limited electric experience, but after several attempts with other wood electrics, this one has the best flight envelope to date. Like others have said, it hard to say enough about how good these planes fly. I was originally looking for a low cost option to my gassers to pratice and experiment with, I have found what I was looking for in this plane. I chose the 3S option both to keep cost down and use the batteries I had in stock and can see little need for the 4s setup on this plane. I normally take off after a short roll out and point it straight up until I get tired of watching it go up. I normally land after about a 7-8 minutes and put back roughly 16-1800 ma in a 2100 pack. The battery has always been warm to touch after flight. Cheers
Posted on: 5/23/2007 1:13 AM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5890153

RE: removable rudder/ideas??
How about drilling the pins out of some robart hinges and using appropiate size metal or carbon tubes? I believe its been done, I have considered this for an upcoming project.
Posted on: 4/27/2007 7:39 AM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5777331

RE: servos for Katana 50cc
The plane sold by world models is the same one previously sold by Aeroworks, any threads on that plane should transate to yours. It has higher wing loading than on most of the current offerings. This is partly because of smaller wing area compared to extra/edges of the same size and just being an older ARF design. Does all of th IMAC type stuff well, and will 3D OK, just not as well as some of the current crop. Found the expiration date on mine after about two seasons of hard flying. Not caused by the plane, just a short between the headphones....
Posted on: 4/26/2007 1:48 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5773668

RE: Extreme Flight 88" Yak - Build and Fly
Just a quick comment on the poly glue, only the outside surface is hard after curing. The interior is more air than glue and cuts/sands easily. It is fairly easy to cut the majority of any "oops" off with a xacto or razor blade. I have also notice the actual grip on typical plastic covering material is not all that strong. You can sometimes carefully get a knife blade or fingernail under one edge and simply peal the mess off without tearing the covering. You may not get all of a "oops" completly cleaned off your work, but you can certainly free up hinge points and surface to the extent that they will function properly.
Posted on: 2/21/2007 1:38 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - 3D & Aerobatic"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5452621

RE: Spektrum DX-7
After setting up all control surfaces, I did the rebind step on my DX7. To test the failsafe, I turned to radio off (RX on) with at least one control surface not in nuetral position. To my suprise, the surfaces hold at last position, while the throttle correctly goes to idle. This positioning is held for several seconds after the TX is turned back on, apparently until the TX/RX establish correct channels again. The delay in regaining control of the craft does not bother me, at that point the aircraft is likely doomed anyway and your engine power is either off or at least idle. However, I thought the control surfaces were supposed to go to nuetral position. Did I miss a step somewhere in the programing? This performance is consistant for two different aircraft and RX's. All else has been performing perfectly.
Posted on: 1/26/2007 8:07 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5328112

RE: Spektrum DX-7
Anyone have experience or opinions on which servos could be safely run with unregulated 2 cell LiPo or ion batteries other than the 5955 series of hitecs? A quick check indicated the official literature for most if not all of the others is limited to 6 volts. Something that I also did not originaly consider, on gassers, I bet the system voltage would likely need to be limited to fit the needs of your throttle or choke servo (or any other aux. type servo) which could be posibly be older or lower technology than used on the flight surfaces.
Posted on: 1/4/2007 1:24 AM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5207447

RE: Spektrum DX-7
OK guys sign me on to the convert list. Maidened my electric EF YAK with the DX7 last weekend, one word - sweeet!!!. The only problem I have is the increadibly weird feeling of not having an antena sticking out from the radio after all of these years having to remember to pull out the antena to fly. Now for the question, do I remember someone stating in this thread that the 7000 RX is rated for over 8 volts? I currently use two cell lithiums in my gasser, now I am thinking I could dump the regulaters when I install the second RX in it this weekend. Any opinions?
Posted on: 1/3/2007 1:40 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5203218

RE: Spektrum DX-7
Just wanted to post my thanks to Dick and the rest of you for all of the useful tips and tricks for the DX7. I am converting from JR and even though the menus are almost identical to my 8103, I got stuck on aileron diffential until I went back and found Dick's post. Plan to maiden a new EF electric Yak with this setup Monday or whenever the wx settles some around here. Already have a second RX ready to go in my gasser in the next few weeks.
Posted on: 12/30/2006 3:14 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "RC Radios, Transmitters, Receivers, Servos, gyros"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5183440

RE: Fliton Extra 330 Mini
OK guys I have now flown this plane a couple of times would still give it a mixed rating. I am using a hacker 28s, TP 1320 batt and 10x5e? prop. CG is right at 90 mm from leading edge with batt just in front of wing spar. Had planned on using TP2100 but the spar location blocks moving the battery back any further to get proper CG. No complaints at all regarding flight performance. Definitely improved tracking and an overall lighter feel compared to my previous Efilte MF. Although still working to dial in throws to taste, no serious coupling issues have surfaced so far. I would highly reccomend reading the build thread in posted above due to lack of any sort of detail instructions and hardware. Just wish I had found that thread before my build. The wing spar is weak, one landing error, one broke spar just outside of fuse. Repaired and ready to roll again. No issues with landing gear yet.
Posted on: 10/17/2006 2:08 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4879760

RE: Fliton Extra 330 Mini
I agree totally with f14mech2005, the hardware (or lack of) and instructions for this plane sucks. This thing is billed as an arf, why is it there is not enough screws to at least match what is shown in the skimpy manual? And just what are we supposed to do we that CF rod? I will not say that I will never buy another kit from from this company, but it will be a lot lower on my list of potential suspects. My eflite MF had several design/construction issues also, so no one is perfect, but at least instructions were clear and hardware present and at least appeared to be matched to the task at hand. The rudder push rod apears too springy to me also (because of length?), I am thinking about adapting that CF rod for this or finding a heavier gage wire. To gain adequte throw on the elevator, I notched a relief on the rudder horn side. Don't know yet if this will create any trim issues. Planned maiden this weekend.
Posted on: 10/5/2006 1:57 PM by Author "catfish2" in the forum "3D Electric Flying!"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4831955