RE: 2s and 3s a123 cells in my traxxas rustler and stampede
You mean the one that shows "hobby-lobby smart balancer and guard 505"? I don't have a link handy but it works just like other balancers that it discharges the higher voltage cells to match the lowest voltage cell in the pack at a max rate of 300mah I think. I bought it for about 10-15 shipped off ebay a while ago.
Posted on: 7/14/2009 12:19 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8932388

lipo size a123 packs
I saw a link to this new battery from maxamps. It may not be a123 but close enough. http://www.maxamps.com/proddetail.php?prod=Life-4500-66-Pack-T&cat=170 About time these are coming in a different shape, but I'll still have my a123 cells for another 10 years before they go bad and I need to replace them :)
Posted on: 7/14/2009 8:55 AM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8931899

RE: Help with converting a computer PS for charger power supply?
I think this power supply I've been wiring up just doesn't work. It isn't new so this isn't a complete suprise. I had another spare atx power supply in the garage so I powered it up and grounded the green... the fan came on. These power supplies are not the same but still helps to see one work. After I remove my bullet connectors it will find the way to the trash can. Anyone who wants to mess with it can cover the shipping cost and its yours.
Posted on: 1/4/2009 1:17 AM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8315964

RE: Help with converting a computer PS for charger power supply?
Andrew, thanks for the detail. I'll just keep the sense wire connected to the orange wires for now. Could the small connectors in my pictures have anything to do with the power supply not fully turning on? I am stuck trying to figure out how to power up the unit at this point.
Posted on: 1/3/2009 11:55 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8315670

RE: Help with converting a computer PS for charger power supply?
is the sense wire is the smallest gauge brown wire or the orange wire it was paired with? I grounded the smallest gauge brown wire and nothing happened. I also tried grounding each of the three orange wires from the connector one at a time. I also tried grounding the green wire at the same time when grounding each orange. When powered on the green and purple wire show 4v and the yellow wire in the connector is .4v. When the power switch is turned off the green and purple go to 0 while the yellow remains at .4v. Any suggestions on what to try next? pictures are here - http://picasaweb.google.com/chadrebuck/Powersupply?authkey=dylxmqPfpME#
Posted on: 1/3/2009 11:09 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8315489

RE: Help with converting a computer PS for charger power supply?
[quote]Anyway just bundled up all of my orange wires and tried each one of them until I found the one that I should have used in the first place.. Turned out it was the last one that I tried (bummer)..[/quote] can you explain what needs to be done with the sense wire? I posted in another thread but didn't get an answer just yet. Thanks. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5680951/mpage_5/key_/tm.htm#
Posted on: 1/3/2009 3:44 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8313776

RE: How to convert an ATX power supply to rc use
I should have mentioned that I connected the small brown wire to the orange wires but it didn't do anything different. Here are some pictures of the wiring and power supply - [link=http://picasaweb.google.com/chadrebuck/Powersupply?authkey=dylxmqPfpME#]http://picasaweb.google.com/chadrebuck/Powersupply?authkey=dylxmqPfpME#[/link]
Posted on: 12/26/2008 1:02 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8284189

RE: How to convert an ATX power supply to rc use
[quote]These light (or brown) wires are called sense wires and must be connected to their darker coloured wires for the power supply to function.[/quote] I am converting my third power supply and this one isn't working yet. I've connected a couple 12v bulbs to the red and black wires for a load, which works well on my other power supply. This one has a small brown wire connected to the orange wire in the large connector. What darker colored wire do I connect the small brown wire to?
Posted on: 12/26/2008 12:36 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8284107

RE: NICAD stick pack graphs 10 amps
testing of nicd packs? what for? sorry, but had to ask.
Posted on: 11/27/2008 2:09 AM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8187868

RE: New 1100 mAh A123 available everywhere and no word here!
[quote]ORIGINAL: everydayflyer Correct setting for A123 (LiFePO4 cells would be [quote]LiFe Vultage level: 3.3V/cell Max.charge vultage: 3.6V/cell [/quote] it also has a program for LiFE which only charges to 3.3v though. That is not max. charge to but base(nonimal) voltage just like 3.7 is base(nonimal) voltage for LiPoly. Cells should charge to 3.6 each and be approx. 3.45 a few minutes after charge is completed. It is best to charge at 1C,then 2C then 3C when new. Charles [/quote] The charger specs would indicate it charges to the max voltage of 3.6 for life, just like it should charge to 4.2 volts for lipo: LiPO Vultage level: 3.7V/cell Max.charge vultage: 4.2V/cell Allowable fast charge current: 1C or less Discharge vultage cut off level: 3.0V/cell or higher LiFe Vultage level: 3.3V/cell Max.charge vultage: 3.6V/cell Allowable fast charge current: 4C or less Discharge vultage cut off level: 2.0V/cell or higher
Posted on: 11/9/2008 10:12 AM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8129480

RE: OFFICIAL RC18MT/B/T THREAD
I have the stock xps esc (#29136) and I have not been able to use reverse - it is forward/brake only at the moment. The instructions state to hold down the button while turning on the power. This doesn't seem to do anything. I am able to enter the esc setup by holding the button after the power is on, and it goes through the sequence to set neutral, full throttle, and full reverse. Any suggestions?
Posted on: 11/5/2008 3:47 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "1/16th, 1/18th, Mini & Micro RC Cars"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8118247

RE: New 1100 mAh A123 available everywhere and no word here!
i am no expert like everydayflier, but have some a123 experience under my belt now. when you recharged the pack how many mah were put back in? do you have a low voltage cutoff on your rc? what were the voltage levels of each cells at the start and end of the charge cycle?
Posted on: 10/26/2008 12:03 AM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8085107

RE: Official Rustler Thread
What motor heat sink is going to fit with minimal or no cutting on the rustler? My mamba 4600 is running up to 200 degrees with 16/90 gearing. Castle doesn't have any ideas on why its running so hot even with 10v batteries. I am probably going to get a vxl motor to try instead of cutting up the gearbox to fit a heat sink. Lets say I do go with a heat sink - is it protected from crashes and being hit in the rear by other cars?
Posted on: 10/18/2008 12:07 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8060503

RE: More Mamba Max Problems
My esc popped out of the plastic cover then bounced around in my car for up to 10 minutes while at the track before I realized it. I used ca on the allen screw threads then a week later one of the on-off wires broke off from the esc so I had to pop the case open again. It was quite easy to pry the case apart with a small screwdriver. Then this past week a power wire broke off from constant flexing I suppose. The end of the wire remained in place on the esc so the factory soldering job was not the problem. So I had to pop the cover off again to solder the wire back on there. After all this the esc is still working perfectly for me though!
Posted on: 10/15/2008 12:22 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8051267

RE: Official Mamba Max Thread!!!!!!
Temps with my rustler and mamba max w/ brand new 4600 from castle creations is getting close to 200 motor temp. Gearing is 13/90, batteries are 9.9v from 3s a123 batteries. I can hit 180 degrees after 20 minutes of nearly non stop running at the offroad track. Castle replaced the motor for me because they suspected a problem with the old one. Either I get a heat sink to bring the temps down on the 4600 or I'll get a velineon motor to try out. I hear they are better temperature wise and can still be geared up to keep the speed I get from the 4600. 10 minute races don't get the motor above 150 but its the non stop racing that gets the temps up. My esc probably has never been above 130 even with no vent in the body.
Posted on: 10/12/2008 11:45 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8043682

RE: Slash Gears Stripping?
I don't run a slash but I also have a mamba max w/4600 and 3s a123 (9.9v) on a rustler. Maybe the heat of the motor at 180+ degrees after 20 minutes of running makes the spur softer, which deforms the plastic gears a little, then the pinion starts to wear down a bit. Who knows. I run my car for hours at a time when I go to the track and I don't let it cool down other that a few minute for battery swaps. It doesn't get above 200 but it used to get close. Castle suspected a problem with my motor so they replaced it at no cost to me... still gets to 180 after 20 minutes. My gearing is now 13/90 and I run the stock size 2.2" tires.
Posted on: 10/12/2008 2:07 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8042029

RE: Slash Gears Stripping?
Here is some info, I've been having trouble with the gears wearing out on my rustler. I may be able to get 3 solid hours of running before they break down on me. Mounting the motor as solid as possible with allen screws helps, but doesn't cure the problem. http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7908819
Posted on: 10/11/2008 11:59 AM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8039089

RE: 1100mah A123 cells - Need 3 or 4 cells
[quote]ORIGINAL: 747 Also where so I buy balance pins and deans connector for cheap?...Tks! [/quote] http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com (if the address gets removed by rcuniverse it is cheap battery packs dot com). I buy my hyperion balance leads for for 1.50 each with only 3.50 shipping charge. I had no luck finding what I needed on ebay.
Posted on: 10/8/2008 9:44 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8031785

RE: More Mamba Max Problems
[quote]ORIGINAL: emidyl Over the past week the esc has intermittently been very fussy. Many times we are not getting the second set of beeps when turning on. all we can do is steer but no throttle. So we toggle on/off a few times and that usually cures it. However on one occasion after the cogging issue, the wires started to SMOKE. Yikes! [/quote] This happens to me as well. I do have the on/off switch bypassed though so I figured this may be causing some issues. What did you find was the reason for the lack of second set of beeps?
Posted on: 10/8/2008 9:30 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8031737

RE: strongest 48p pinions for 1/10 rc
[quote]ORIGINAL: john01374 Chad - I was having the same issues with stripped spurs and finally just gave up. I tried different screws, re-setting mesh etc etc. What it came down to was the 48P gears where just not strong enough for the abuse I put my trucks through. The 32P (yes it's actually .8 metric, Same thing) jato spur is a direct swap. Only problem is you can not put the stock gear cover back on as it will hit the spur. I made this switch on all of my traxxas stuff and haven't stripped a gear since. [/quote] My 48p gears surely lasted longer now that I have the motor secured with allen screws and the lower hole on the traxxas gear cover is taped. Today they gave up on me but really I did get a decent amount of time from them... but I'll try the 32p jato gearing out.
Posted on: 10/5/2008 5:52 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8021424

RE: Best NiMH Batteries???
You can get used, but well made 3300mah, 3800mah, 4200mah, nimh side by side 7.2v packs on ebay for about $20 - $25 shipped. I've sold maybe 6 of them over the past week and have about 4 still left. I was able to buy a 3300 pack many months ago for less than $10 shipped. I think the key is not to buy the best and latest high cap brand new battery pack or you'll waste a bunch of money in the process. Lots of people don't need nimh anymore so be patient, buy a couple at a time, and before you know it you'll have too many. Drain them down and slow charge at c/10 for 16 hours to get them back up to capacity. for a 4200mah battery that is 420 (4200/10) mah or very close to it for 16 hours. good luck
Posted on: 10/4/2008 1:43 AM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8017213

RE: Multiplex LN-5014 Charger Ships & Review
I am unable to use the nimh setting to slow charge my 8 x aa transmitter pack at 200 mah. It terminates after an hour even when the cells are almost dead. I have to set to nicd and only charge partially so I am sure not to overcharge. Also I have a 6 cell nimh 4200 mah pack that I wanted to slow charge after a full discharge. However, at 400 mah using nicd the charger still terminates. My next charger may have the option to force a slow charge for a set amount of hours with no termination just to avoid the hassle.
Posted on: 9/24/2008 8:38 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7987669

RE: strongest 48p pinions for 1/10 rc
Hadn't considered 32p yet, but may give that a try if I keep going through gears so quickly. I just changed over to allen head screws for the motor mounts and used nearly the largest diameter washer that would fit to spread out the load. I am using the traxxas plastic stock gearbox by the way. Previously I was using the phillips head screws with a washer on the lower screw only. Every few packs (about 45 min of driving) I'd check and set the gear mesh and make sure the screws were still tight. Maybe the wear was happening as the pinion shifted slightly away from the spur. The new screws and washers should eliminate any movement or at least keep it in place for a much longer amount of time.
Posted on: 9/23/2008 10:16 AM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7982610

RE: How to convert an ATX power supply to rc use
I would like to use my power supply to directly charge a 3s pack of a123 batteries. I have packs of a123 that are directly charged using a car battery and simple voltage cutoff device. My 12v 8a max power supply has actually charged up a few packs then one day it blew a capacitor. I put in a new capacitor from radio shack and it works fine still. To keep the amp rate at 8a or less when charging from a car battery I used about 6 feet of 18 or 16 gauge speaker wire. When I connect the a123 packs to the power supply the initial load likely surges to more than the 8 amp power supply max rating though. Is there a way to limit the initial amp spike so it doesn't exceed the power supply rating? Is there something inexpensive that I could place inline to do this? I know I could get a charger that puts out up to 10amps but that will cost me some $$ too. My charger can only supply about 5 amps and it takes 25 minutes to charge the batteries. With the a123 packs connected directly to a car battery or my power supply it only takes 15 min, which is what I really want. Then I don't have a 10 min wait between my next run when using ac power to charge... and I don't need to use my car battery. I am considering buying a 12v 20a capable power supply if there is no solution.
Posted on: 9/22/2008 5:00 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7980072

RE: strongest 48p pinions for 1/10 rc
[quote]ORIGINAL: CustomTamiyas4Life These are my favorite spurs and the ones I was referring to- http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=robinson+stealth&search=Go . I was running the 90t. They are light and alot better than traxxas spurs. The pinion was this- http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEX10&P=7 [/quote] Those stealth spur gears are a direct replacement for the traxxas slipper peg type of setup? That pinion should be the same as the robinson racing "Hard Nickel Plated" ones that I am using as well. I do have the 16t absolute pinion to try but with 13t I am barely able to use full throttle for more than a split second anyway. With 9.9v from my 3s a123 pack I need to gear really low or limit the throttle. With 16t I'd have to limit the throttle using my controller.
Posted on: 9/20/2008 11:46 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7974551

RE: strongest 48p pinions for 1/10 rc
Mesh could be tighter I suppose, but I keep it just close enough so there is barely any slack. What gears were you using - robinson racing has many types. How about the spur?
Posted on: 9/20/2008 7:59 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7973797

RE: A123 battery for electric monster trucks, help please
Bargains are still out there for the batteries as well. A month ago I bought an 8 cell dewalt pack from someone on the rcgroups forums for $55 shipped, then another 4 cell pack that had a potentially bad cell for $20 shipped. The 4 cell pack only had a broken balance wire - no damage to the cells. So out of 12 batteries all work fine. I run 3s in my rustler http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7891228/tm.htm and run 2s in a stampede. Both fit without modifying the battery tray but I do use a little block of wood to hold the 3s pack in there securely. I get about 15 minutes of solid run time (not stop, go, rest, etc) from the 3s packs using a mamba max 4600 on the rustler. I tried the a123 2s pack on a mamba max 7700 and I've personally never seen an rc car that fast. Run time was only about 10 minutes though. I am selling all my nimh packs on ebay including one smaller 2s lipo because all I need is two 3s a123 packs to run non stop.
Posted on: 9/20/2008 7:54 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7973788

RE: strongest 48p pinions for 1/10 rc
I covered up the stock gear cover with a piece of tape for now. At least there is no 1/2" wide hole in there now for dirt to get in. I've worn out a few different robinson racing pinions so far. 13t and 14t pinions don't come in the "super hard absolute" variety so I guess I have to look elsewhere for a pinion. The "hard nickel plated" pinions don't last very long at all. I maybe got 2 - 3 hours of run time for the last pinion/spur set in the picture here.
Posted on: 9/20/2008 7:29 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "RC Electric Off-Road Trucks, Buggies, Truggies and more"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7973721

RE: 2s and 3s a123 cells in my traxxas rustler and stampede
Any esc can handle 2s1p or 2s2p a123. The voltage is 7.2 max, with 6.6 being the average during the discharge cycle. Voltage is lower so the motor turns slower. You may want to get a faster motor or gear your motor with a larger pinion if it can handle it. You don't need to set the esc to handle anything - voltage cutoff isn't too critical with a123. Just stop when the car slows down. In my rustler I run a mamba max 4600 with 13/87 gearing using 3s a123.
Posted on: 9/17/2008 12:54 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7963483

RE: How to convert an ATX power supply to rc use
thanks, so i can't connect the white to white wire and the black to black without this special switch so its on whenever the power supply is plugged in?
Posted on: 9/15/2008 6:46 PM by Author "chadr" in the forum "Batteries & Chargers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7957494