RE: Easy Glider Pro Battery Mounting
I know your problem, having just finished a EGPro. Here's what I've done. a) Use 3c batteries about 17mm thick before putting on the Velcro. I did try one like yours - 25mm - and had a *** job getting it in or out. Never again. b) As you did, "mask" the Velcro. I did as follows: Before sliding the bty in lay in a strip of celluloid, about .7mm (I think) thick. The bty slides in on top, & the celluloid is pulled out. To get the bty out, shove the celluloid under the bty, between it & the Velcro, right to the end: you need the right thickness (and thus, stiffness) celluloid to do this. Then the bty slides out, no prob. The celluloid is a bit wider than the bty, and about 25cm long. I've also used a flexible metal scale which previously was backed by cork. Took the cork off. Cheers
Posted on: 10/18/2009 11:46 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9184214

RE: 049 power pod wanted
SOARINGUSA makes two pods, a large & a small one. I have a "small" one: don't know the specifics. Made in Germany. Will handle a 2.5m ship, maybe 4 lbs. Cost $300, and I'm asking $125 Suggest you contact me at ianfenno@comcast.net if you're interested. Cheers charliey
Posted on: 9/20/2009 10:41 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9109586

RE: Looking for an Electric Folding pusher Prop
I have a "Power Pod" by Soaring USA which I am just about to put on sale. Soaring USA sells two pods, "large" and "small". Mine's the latter. Has CAM 12/6 blades which remain spring-folded until the motor starts. Here's a pic or two. Don't see the pics - maybe they don't show on the preview. Anyway, the pod cost me $300, same price as other pods around now. The pod has been flown only a couple of times - on a Cularis, but found I didn't like the hard nose-down on launch. So I'm now asking $125. It's in good shape. Please reply ASAP, since I'll sell elsewhere if you don't want it.
Posted on: 4/25/2009 5:21 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8714783

RE: Cularis Wing Connection
Addendum !! Don't know how that typo happened. Was trying to say - Sad, but I haven't flown my Cularis yet. Grim weather this neck of woods. I put the 6-pin Graupner connectors in for the wing connections, per T12Z (10/12/2007), and they work a treat. The whole wing connect system with the hard plastic fuse assembly, plus the wing locking system is one great design. Have to say I found the assembly per the manual quite simple. Anybody spraypainted theirs yet? Cheers again
Posted on: 3/20/2008 7:09 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7256617

RE: Cularis Wing Connection
Sad, but Iin the Graupner 6-pin connectors for the wing connections, per T12Z, and they work a treat. Also sank a pair of hardwood plugs atop the fuse, and screwed on a SoaringUSA Power Pod - the smaller variety. Added weight to the nose to compensate. Should climb like a banshee. I hope. Cheers
Posted on: 3/20/2008 7:02 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7256584

RE: Wiring Spirit 100 w/ e motor
Different strokes . . . .etc, I guess. But for me, I have a pretty pricey system, and I sure don't intend to prejuice the longevity of this lot . Separate 6v battery for the servos, for me. Small insurance. Good luck, anyway, any road.
Posted on: 3/20/2008 6:28 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7256393

RE: Cularis Wing Connection
conn's that I've already installed. Good luck Charliey
Posted on: 12/29/2007 10:51 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6820860

RE: Cularis Wing Connection
Excellent idea! [sm=thumbs_up.gif]I just wish I had seen this BEFORE I built my cularis. [sm=48_48.gif]Multiplex ought to design one more ship with this connection idea and then go out of business.[>:] What's the make / name of the connectors you use? Cheers
Posted on: 12/27/2007 11:35 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6810988

RE: What battery are you using on Multiplex Easy Glider
I used to have one of these - took the battery out, put lead plus a 4xAA in the nose & now it's a great glider - including sloper. Previously when it was motorized I had 8xAA's (side by side) in the slot made for them. If you're using LiPos which are much smaller & lighter, you better have them right at the CG, and firmly there - where the intended 8xAA's were, or you may well have stability problems! Cheers anyway.[;)]
Posted on: 10/28/2007 10:31 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6551911

RE: Wiring harness construction pictorial needed
"I figured it was cheaper to go ahead and buy servo extensions made by pros." IN TRUTH, MAN, IN TRUTH!
Posted on: 4/8/2007 12:29 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5681831

RE: Homebuilt vs commercial hi-start
If I can offer a few words . . . . if you want less rubber length - like 2/3 of full length - simply wrap the rubber with 3 - 4 laps of about 3" wide cloth where you want to terminate the rubber, feed the terminating ring onto the cloth, which covers a 3" length of the rubber, fold the cloth-wrapped rubber and there's the ring at the length of rubber you wanted. And, the rubber's protected from the bite of the ring by the cloth. Then lash the joint together using a thin twine, again, wrapping only on the cloth to protect the rubber. This way, when you want the full rubber length, you can easily undo that lot and there won't be any damage to the rubber. As for the line, I've always used monofilament, like 25 - 40lb strength. I've never exceeded 12lb pull when launching a 2 1/4m floater, and it gets up to a really goodly height. And mono has less drag and is lighter than some of the strings I've seen I hear that Japanese mono stretches better than other types, thus providing even more stretch to the system. Cheers
Posted on: 3/13/2007 3:38 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5555560

RE: Spectra ARF Wing Joiner Needed
Have what you want. Send address. ianfenno@comcast.net
Posted on: 3/11/2007 10:52 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5547476

RE: Spectra ARF- Wing over
Yes. Those balsa spars. Just finished building two Spectras: one a kit and one ARF. The difference is significant - I described in detail the ARF wing construction in aprevious thread. The Kit's Quite different, and at that, can be improved. Now, here in Soggy Salem OR I'm waiting for some weather to actually fly them[:)] Maybe in May. In sh'Allah Cheers
Posted on: 12/15/2006 1:31 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5118391

RE: Spectra ARF- Wing over
Washout / in is a twist in the wing. It helps prevent TipStall, and I'm only guessing, but I think this is what occurs when, in a turn, the inside wing goes slower than the outside wing. So, the inside tip is going slowest of all, and has the least airflow over it, & is liable to stall first. I'm sure the pundits will correct me on this![:D] The twist is seen this way. Lay one half of the wing flat on a table - the main part of the half-wing, that is. The outer (dihedral) part is angled up. Now, keep the Leading Edge flat on the table, also the TE at the wing root. Then lift up the TE at the dihedral point a "bit". Pundits say you need about 3 degrees, which means lifting the TE corner about 3/8", about 9mm. That's a 3° WashOut. You have to build it into the wing during construction &/or by heating the covering while holding in the twist. You treat the outer wing (dihedral) part similarly, except since this part is tapered, you lift it less. Maybe 5mm. Hope this makes sense: wait for the pundits' screams[:D] Cheers
Posted on: 12/14/2006 9:50 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5115012

RE: Spectra RTF
There have been quite a few notes about the construction of the Spectra Electric ARF’s wing, and how it tends to break under not-too-fierce manoeuvering. Well, recently I got hold of such a bustup, and here’s how I found Grate Planze have built the wing. I found that the spar is 7/8x1/2� overall. The front & rear faces of the spar are of 1/8� 3-ply hardwood. This extends as far as 4-1/4� from the root on the rear face, and 6 ½� on the front face. The top and bottom of the spar is soft balsa. From this point on, the spar is totally soft balsa – at least to the dihedral junction, beyond which I didn’t check. But there’s no reason to think that there’s anything but soft balsa there either. From the 4th rib on, the spar is made up of 3/16x1/8� balsa top & bottom, with a 7/8x1/8� front face. From the 3rd rib on, there’s no rear face or webbing to the spar. This may indicate why the wing breaks where it does. Also,the top surface of the wing from the LE to the spar, out as far as the dihedral junction, is covered with 1/16� sheet balsa. On the underside, the sheeting extends only 2 ½� from the root. A “D� box, as such, there just ain’t. Think on these things, mateys.
Posted on: 10/18/2006 3:07 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4884335

RE: multiplex easyglider electric (few build/setup Qs)
Glad to see somebody else is into the EasyG - I'm just thinking of starting. So far I'm not impressed with the CD video - no explanation of fuse construction (servo's & control lines etc). Anybody know where you can get SPRAY - on CA? Think GOOP would do? Will be fascinated to follow this thread !! And good luck. [8|][>:][:o]
Posted on: 10/17/2006 8:36 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4881385

RE: Schweitzer Primary Glider
Great looking ship! [:)] Me, I trained on the 2-22 . . . . . do you know of any kits of this one? Cheers [:)]
Posted on: 10/1/2006 6:15 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4815441

RE: Still looking for a suitable glider.
Great advice! Now, what do you have in mind for the next step after a Vista - or a Spectra? I sure don't want to get into comps. But a decent increase in penetration without being a bear to handle? (Still pretty well a greenhorn)[:o] Also, do you figure that a transition fron NiCd's etc to LiPo's is pretty well essential if you want to get decent thermal performance? I'm a bit leery about LiPo's safety history. Cheers
Posted on: 9/26/2006 12:37 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4793585

RE: Spectra RTF
This isn't on the Spectra directly, but somewhere very recently I saw an opinion to the extent that a bloke was going to get a Spectra KIT (and build it with spruce Spars), but had he known of some other particular ship he'd seen, he'd have got that one instead. Don't know if this was you - for the life of me I cannot find that thread again - but I faintly recall that this other ship was the Vista. And I'd like to know fer sure what it was. Can you Help? Cheers
Posted on: 9/25/2006 3:39 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4791356

RE: Spectra RTF
Y'know, I actually am going to get me another Spectra. In the light of all the thread - inputs, that may seem crazy. But, while the thing WAS flying, it really did well. Even for me, who am a real greenhorn. Those who may have read my input will recall that the last time it flew it went out of sight, and the only thing I could think to do was to spin it in the hope that I might get some flash from it on the way down - slowly, it was to be hoped. Instead, after about 30 secs, there was a vertical white streak of light impacting the ground about 200M away, and the associated "THUD" was truly remarkable. Even more remarkable was that one wing was missing, and nowhere to be found. The other remaining wing consisted of a portion broken off about 15cm from the junction. The difference with the new ship will be that I'm going to build from a kit / scratch, and no way will there be balsa spars. Spruce as a minimum, but probably CF, maybe both. The little increase in weight shouldn't make much diff. Any other ideas would be welcome. I sure hope that Grate Planez will take note of all these comments. Cheers to all Spectra owners.
Posted on: 9/20/2006 6:56 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4772661

RE: Spectra ARF-Motor issues
Well, Pete & Mike, thanks a GREAT deal! I was just about to order another Spectra ARF ! If I had the patience I maybe might build from scratch - with spruce / CF spars. But I don't. Need some advice. I don't have a whole lot of experience - I could handle the Spectra fine (until the Last Time [:)] [:)] [:)] ), and I need a replacement maybe a tadge advanced? Any ideas? About same $$ range as Spectra? Cheers
Posted on: 7/22/2006 10:29 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4531171

RE: Spectra ARF-Motor issues
Ha! Interesting! If you read what happened to my Spectra (ARF), I now add that not only did the nose dig its grave, but most of one wing was completely missing! Looked around 1/4 mile for it, never found it. It had broken off about 6" from the joiner. Breaking in a spin could well explain its disappearance. From 600 - 800ft or so, it could be anywhere. Wonder if spruce spars wouldn't be worth it? Great Planes please Note ![>:] If anybody wants a Spectra right wing, I do have one![:)]
Posted on: 7/20/2006 2:31 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4522713

RE: Spectra ARF-Motor issues
Quite a bit, and as much as I wanted, until . . . .I did el stupido. Let the thing get too high against a clear blue and lost it. Finally came down, vertically, at ~ Mach 0.3. Now trying to find out if either the controller or the moter survived. But, I'm even thinking of getting exactly the same rig again: Spectra, Phasor motor, Jeti controller. Had a LOT of fun until . . . . Ah well I wish you better fortune, my friend.
Posted on: 7/18/2006 11:54 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4518587

RE: Spectra ARF-Motor issues
The Phasor 15/4 (with a 10/6 folding prop) made a huge diff in my Spectra. The motor fits perfectly. Previously, with a speed 600 I had to add tail weight to get balance. With the Phasor, I got the lead out. The Phasor makes a wonderful improvement in performance. Recommend highly. Good luck.
Posted on: 7/18/2006 1:19 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4514766

RE: foam cutter problem
A lamp dimmer should work OK. Worth trying first before Variac - MUCH cheaper! It will vary the current in the wire OK and hence the temperature. Me, I wouldn't try it without some means of controlling the current. 1/10" looks pretty thick - much thicker than the ones I've seen working
Posted on: 5/8/2006 10:42 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4256365

RE: foam cutter problem
And good luck! While you're at it, could you tell me about the guitar wire you're going to use. What's the gauge/diameter, and the metal it's made of? Any chance you might know the resistance? Or the current (amps) you'll be using? You say the transformer's 150 watt, but will you be using all that power? I could add that I've seen people using a hot wire, and they have always had a means of adjusting the current. In fact I figure this is a necessity! They used a "Variac" (meaning Variable AC) This way they could vary the AC input to the transformen from the 220v mains supply from 220v down to about 30v, as I recall. This then changes the output voltage to the wire and hence the current through the wire and hence the temperature of the wire. In the US a 320VA Variac (VA is sort of like watts) costs $54US. No idea what they would be in your neck of the woods. I do hope I'm not telling you what you already know - if so, sorry!
Posted on: 5/7/2006 3:34 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4250607

RE: foam cutter problem
The thin wires go to the 220v amd the thick ones to your hot wire. Fer sure! Do it the other way round and you'll get thousands of volts on the other two wires - and maybe break down the insulation inside your transformer as well as blowing fuses all over the house. If by chance, you already DID do this, your transformer may be shot. If you get strange happenings and/or smells, this is probably the cause. And good luck.
Posted on: 5/6/2006 8:17 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4247996

RE: Foamy Build Video
Most superior, Jack. Look forward to a complete series covering all your techniques. But, for all your efforts, you really ought to be compensated. Tried Time-Warner? All the best Ian @ salem.or
Posted on: 3/24/2006 5:13 PM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=4077884

RE: Sloper
Tnx, mate - will look at them. Also, have heard of the LEG -1 - any ideas?
Posted on: 1/15/2006 10:01 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3776918

Sloper
I've done a fair bit of sloping, but always in light air, and with a 2.5M thermaller. Now I have to upgrade to something more meaningful - without going overboard. Sure don't need violent aerobatics or combat just yet, thanks. Thinking of a 1.5 - 1.75M, EPP foam, with ailerons. Any ideas / recommendations? Would appreciate. Tnx
Posted on: 1/13/2006 1:01 AM by Author "charliey" in the forum "RC Gliders, Sailplanes and Slope Soaring"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=3768407