RE: Hostetler Lancair ES Build with retracts.
Looks good. I really need to get back to building.
Posted on: 5/19/2013 5:32 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11515879

RE: Hostetler Lancair ES Build with retracts.
Looks good Sebo. I have not had a chance to start my build yet. Where did you get the hinges?
Posted on: 9/9/2012 6:16 PM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11223165

RE: Best scale photo!
It's all perception and ones biases. You're such the joker Sputz
Posted on: 8/27/2012 11:13 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11207828

RE: Hostetler Lancair ES Build with retracts.
Looking good, Did your plans come with the detail to add flaps? Mine did not. We may want to trade photos of the plans we each have.
Posted on: 8/5/2012 12:40 PM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11181823

RE: Hostetler Lancair ES Build with retracts.
Well, after a few hours of looking I found exactly the door I wanted to use! I found it at Stock Supply, its a 32"x80" exterior flush steel slab no drill door for $68.00. I did find one at HD but it was pre hung and in a sash for $116. I would have had to throw away the sash and to that was a big waste. I'll be picking the door up on Wed next week. I am planning on using it as a large magnetic building board + I can use ceiling tile or other material on the other side should I want to build with pins and such. This should end up pretty versatile
Posted on: 8/2/2012 10:06 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11178535

RE: Hostetler Lancair ES Build with retracts.
I may just start a thread on my build. First need the 32x80 door to build on lol...
Posted on: 8/1/2012 6:28 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11177061

RE: Everything Radial Engines
I know it's a boxter, but it's a gasser!! looks like an OS ff320... http://www.jeperformance.biz/Engine.htm
Posted on: 7/31/2012 2:29 PM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176284

RE: OS FF-320 pegasus
Hi all, I just found this and wanted to share it. It's a 4 cly boxter, but gas. http://www.jeperformance.biz/Engine.htm
Posted on: 7/31/2012 2:28 PM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11176283

RE: Hostetler Lancair ES Build with retracts.
I agree with the flaps on this airframe, even though Hosteller says thay aren't needed. I know I'll be adding them on mine! How old are your plans? My plans came with both the ES and the IV build. When I pickup my L-IV I got th fiberglass fuse, foam core wings and horz stab (obiechi wood), but since I have not tacked a foam core like this, I had a full wood kit cut so I can use the built up wing. I have begun to think about using "fliteskin" instead of balsa sheeting and then fiberglassing, the fliteskin looks like it'll do a nice job, plus if I decide to use the foam core it will work on those too. I am looking to start this build hopefully soon. Need to get a 32x80 hollow core door to build this one ... Thanks for posting your pics, they are helpful.
Posted on: 7/31/2012 3:32 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11175615

RE: Hostetler Lancair ES Build with retracts.
Finally someone is building one of these! I have the plans, a full wood kit and a fiberglass fuse. I have been waiting to see how someone goes about this build so I can be sure I can talk through a build like this. So you are building the ES and putting retracts in like the IV. Why not build the IV? The wings are bigger on the ES which could be a bonus... Just wondering.
Posted on: 7/27/2012 6:52 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11171094

RE: Seidel 7-70 radial: Help me decide!
Hoooooo RAYYYYYYYY!!!
Posted on: 2/6/2012 8:37 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10946365

RE: Seidel 7-70 radial: Help me decide!
Great progress!! You may need to wiggle the exhaust tube while you are trying to threads the nuts in.
Posted on: 2/6/2012 4:00 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10946093

RE: Seidel 7-70 radial: Help me decide!
I feel your pain guys. I had Kelvin build me the front collector for my ST710 back in 2005 or so. Kelvin had me send the engine to him so he could put the ring on - it was that difficult. As you prob read in some of my posts I have tried to remove it to tighten the front crank housing, but gave up. It was easier to buy a new 3mm Hex wrench and cut it and then tighten the SHCS fraction by fraction then to remove the collector. The collector is a piece of art, Kelvin said that he was not going to do the front ones any longer because the Siedel engines are not on spec. By that he meant and I agree, that the spacing between cyl and the angle of the ports are not consistent and there was always going to be a problem since each engine would probably be somewhat bespoke.
Posted on: 2/5/2012 8:20 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10944933

RE: KMP F-7F Tigercat
Is it just my Tigercat or do all of you with the KMP first or second shipmnets have a plane that the skin is so thin you can crack it or just about punch a hole in the skin just by picking it up? I have found splits in the wingtips, I picked up my fuse alone right in front of the prop warning strip and it bloody well cracked/split the skin!! I hardly applied any pressure to it... This kit seems to fragile to really fly and that is one reason I have not yet put mine into the air. I fear it will stress crack in flight... I even have added in a T6 spar in the center section to fix the weak center section...Should not have had to do that with this kit. When I picked this up it was almost $800.00 USD as an ARF. Then add in Sierra custom retracts, twin Saito 170 radials and all the digital servos etc. I have a very expensive RC plane that does not seem to be air worthly and that really makes me an unhappy KMP owner. I am considering stripping it and build another twin from a kit that will not be so plagued. I know many of you, especialy Col. Winters, have had great success or failures with this kit. Maybe I got the runt of the shipment....
Posted on: 1/21/2012 8:49 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10919907

RE: ASM F-7F Tigercat
[quote]ORIGINAL: Brad330l silver.kiwi the treddle plates you describe were my first attempt. The following pictures show the latest and better set up with a much smaller plate with bigger hole in the underside of the wing and adjustable door actuating rods. The rear internal 'stiffner' ( about 1/4'' x 1/4'') was dremeled in half width ways with the hole size you see here and could easily be beefed up again by glueing a doubler behind it. I have not done this and have had no problems (so far). This set up works very well now with the doors staying wide open until the gear is retracted. If you do not want to cut the holes in the bottom of the wing you will need to reduce the diameter of you main wheels. Cheers, Brad [/quote] Hi Brad, I have had my F7F since the second shipment and have yet to fly it :-( I have been getting back to this bird to ready it for a flight but I wanted doors on it. I have been from front to back of this forum and have seen many different ways to mount the gear doors. Yours looks very intriguing. Can you tell me how you connected them up? Cheers.
Posted on: 1/21/2012 8:19 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10919870

RE: Everything Radial Engines
Kmot, that is a very nice engine!!! It is so smooth in transition. Now what automobile do I have to sell to get one?
Posted on: 12/14/2011 3:16 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10858749

RE: Everything Radial Engines
I have a possible solution to my front crank cover being loos and the need to remove teh fornt Keleo collector. I could use a m3x8mm hex head bolt and use a open end wrench to tighten down the bolt. this would be muce easier than trying to put a hex key into a SHCS. Problem is, I cannot seem to locate a supplier of m3x8mm HEX head bolts. I have looked all over the web and I am not able to locate a source. Do any of you guys know where such a product may be? Cheers
Posted on: 11/13/2011 6:49 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10809620

RE: Everything Radial Engines
I have the ST 710 (German) and I had to send it to Keleo to get it fit with the collector (front style). Kelvin swore he'd never do it again! Let me tell you the Seidel cyl are not all aligned well and some of the head castings intake and exhaust ports are a bit off. Which makes it really hard to put on or take off this collector. I need to remove mine since I have found that the SHCS on the front crank housing are loose and it is almost impossible to re-tighten with a stub alen wrench....
Posted on: 11/10/2011 6:40 PM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10806368

RE: Seidel 7-70 radial: Help me decide!
Finally after weeks of no glow driver, I was able to get the ST710 fired up again on the Stearman! The new Glow 7 LP with a 33oo NImh worked well. Funny thing is I had to start it with a 24 vdc dyna to turn it over enough to get it to fuel and fire. Hand starting this time was not an option. What I notice that the engine seemed really run dirty. More than what I'd expect, so I started checking bolt and nut tightness. I found a few nuts on the Keleo collector we a tad loose, then I checked the SHCS at the front of the crankcase. They were all at some stage of being loose. So I tried to use a stub Allen wrench to tighten them up. Not real practical. So I thought I'll take off the collector, I remembered that Kelvin said that this engine was a bear to get the collector on since noe of the cylinders and port were at a consistent angle. So, now I am wondering if I should remove it or not. The SHCS have to be tightend; the stub wrench does not cut it. I could try loosening all the heads do there is less stress on the exhaust port connections, this may more trouble... Anyone else have any issues with their ST 710 or 770? Ideas solicited. Cheers
Posted on: 11/9/2011 4:20 PM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10804765

RE: Seidel 7-70 radial: Help me decide!
Martin, yes I have the balancer and the Glow 7 LP. I am using my 3300 Mah NiMH for glow power, I am wary of LiPo still -I have them but they still are a fire concern. It's all installed now and I am hoping to take the Stearman out for an engine start test this weekend. Since I still had my old Glow 7 I de-soldered the ground lead (with resistor) and used that to ground to the engine. In my bench tests everything performs as it should!
Posted on: 11/4/2011 4:25 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10796208

RE: Seidel 7-70 radial: Help me decide!
Thank you Martin, I'll go by my local electricians store. Here is a pic of the Glow 7LP, no resistor. It seems that when you order a Glow 7 Lp if you get the balancer you do not need the resistor, if you do not get the balancer the resiter is required. Look at the dropdown box. [link]http://www.microsens.at/shopping/product_info.php/info/p11_GLOW9LP.html/XTCsid/60e826efff00fb86f29037958ff25289[/link]
Posted on: 10/28/2011 6:02 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10786296

RE: Seidel 7-70 radial: Help me decide!
[quote]ORIGINAL: Spuetz [quote]So, it would seem that you CAN'T use the BALANCER at all without the separate cables from Microsen. Is this correct? [/quote] No, you can use any old cable - Microsens' is just NICE! Like the engine, like the hobby.. nice-to-have! Not needed! [quote]And it seems that I can't use the GLOW7LP with the glow cables that came with the engine.[/quote] a cable is a cable is a cable. Doesn't matter which one you use! just cut your original cables off at the end, take a bit of insulation off and stick them into the balancer. [quote]Actually, I can't even see how one could connect a set of 7 glow cables directly to the GLOW7LP. [/quote] Now that's a very interesting question to which Peter Klementschitz (he ''is'' microsens) has a very clever answer. To understand the answer, though, you have to understand a bit about electric current. Normally you fire up a glow plug by connecting the red cable to the center bit of the plug (the  ''plus'' pole if you will) and the black cable anywhere else on the engine ( the ''minus'' pole). Right? Now let's say we had two glow plugs - like for a two cylinder engine... You could now go an connect the red cable to the center bit of plug # 1 and the black cable to the center bit of plug # 2. Really? Really! Why? Well, the current would run though the red cable into the center bit of plug # 1, through the bit that glows which is connected to the outside bit of the plug, right? This outside bit is connected to the engine, right? So the current continues its journey through the engine and finds another plug on the other side. Runs into the bit that glows in that plug, into the center bit where it finds the black cable and back to the battery. A closed curcuit. Works fine! This is my setup with the GLOW4B on my SAITO FG 182.... Problem: You need an EVEN number of cylinders for this to work, cause other wise the resistance of the one half of.... no... I am not going to bore you to tears with the details...<img alt='''' src=''http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/js/fckeditor/editor/images/smiley/msn/wink_smile.gif'' /> But! A Seidel has only 7 cylinders. What to do? Well, you could add an 8th plug that just hangs around heating up the cowling interior. Or you could use it to heat up the cockpit, or have two plugs per cylinder as with the grown up aviation engines... or... you need a little electric piece that is called  a ''resistor''. It has to have the same ''resistance'' as a normal glow plug. This resistor is used as plug #8 . So with the GLOW 7 without balancer this is what you do: connect any four plugs to one pole (say: ''red'') and the other three AND the resistor to the other pole (''black'') . the resistor is connected on the other side to the engine mount much like you do with your black cable now. And bang, you're in business. GOOD THING: the resistor comes with the GLOW7! And a detailed english manual as well that explains all of this. here are pictures where you can see that little golden resistor: You can see that the black line is fixed to the engine mount and the red line joins the other seven yellow ones to the GLOW7... And one picture showing the blancer on a different model. here you can see on station ''G'' a black cable. This is connected to the engine mount. In other words: This balancer has that resistor that I was talking about, built in [/quote] Martin, a couple items to ask you about. First you added a connector to the ends of the yellow wires that go into the balancer. What did you use? Next (again) the numbering clips on the wires, I can't find them anywhere, where did you get them? Lastly on the Glow 7LP, they do not include the resistor only a donut with the servo wire passing thru it - depending on if you use it with the balancer. No balancer = resistor added. Cheers
Posted on: 10/27/2011 10:12 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10785111

RE: Seidel 7-70 radial: Help me decide!
Martin, thanks, I'll look for a good lipoly. Hey BYW where did you get the cable id markers for your Glow 7 setup?
Posted on: 10/26/2011 7:10 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10783275

RE: Seidel 7-70 radial: Help me decide!
Glad to see more Radial guys out here ! I have the ST 710 and it's been great. Used the Glow 7 untill it somehow shorted out - blew 4 of my 7 plugs! Anyway the new Glow 7LP and Balancer and new glow wires just got here day before yesterday. Now I am in the where to mount stage, using the balancer changes up how I had the on board glow steup, no matter it will work! I need to go to the LHS and pick up a new set of Glow plugs either today or this weekend depending on free time, then I can test the new setup. I may just use the 3300 NiMh that I have from the old Glow 7 at first, but then again the lipo or LiFe is a nice alternative. Martin, how much battery do you use in a flight with the Glow 7LP and a lipo? Martin for the cost of a nice Jet, you could almost buy a full scale 152 LOL.. I looked at just but the low cost RTF I found at my club was still 6K USD. I'd rather use that as money toward my 997 S. Turbines are cool no doubt and if you think about it, they are based off a radial design, look at the impeller.... Cheers! Chas
Posted on: 10/26/2011 5:03 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "RC Scale Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10783111

RE: Flair 1/4 Scale PT17/Stearman Build
Looking good!
Posted on: 10/11/2011 4:44 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10759396

RE: Everything Radial Engines
Here is something interesting I just had happen... it's in here because it's part of my ST710 setup. I took my Stearman out in the backyard last evening to do my first ST-710 run on the airframe. I got it all ready to go and then when I was moving the throttle up and down, the servo jittered badly (Hitec HS 435 MG). I stopped my attempt and went back in and started looking for root cause. My setup is: St-710, Microsens 7 with a 3800 NIMH for glow power and a 3300 NIMH on the servos and receiver (XPS). Throttle and the glow driver are paired in a Y so when I advance or retard the throttle the glow driver will add or remove power to the plugs. I looked at the batteries and their connection, all good. Then I took the glow power battery off and the Throttle servo quit jittering. I grabed another servo (HS 422) and it had the same conditions as the original. Replaced that with a Futaba servo and no jitters when I did my testing. I was thinking maybe a feedback into the receiver from the Y or maybe too close to the cables that go to the glow plugs, but it never had jitter problems when I ran the ST-710 on the test stand with a similar setup. At worse case I'll use the Futaba for my throttle, but there is an underling issue I would like to resolve here. Update: Put in a digital servo, problem gone...
Posted on: 6/28/2011 5:30 PM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10586421

RE: Everything Radial Engines
Very nice. A Seidel and the GP PT-17.
Posted on: 6/22/2011 4:43 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10586385

RE: Everything Radial Engines
[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTpyQg-9dKA&feature=related[/link] Ahh anyone find a problem with this ?
Posted on: 6/15/2011 6:33 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10575099

RE: Flair 1/4 Scale PT17/Stearman Build
Cybertom, that's quite an offer! I have flown little this past year so I'll need to break out the GP Stearman and get some stick time in before I maiden the Flair. Let me get out and get my hands on the transmitter for a re-acquaintance so if you do come down I'll be in flight mode and won't scare you off the runway.. LOL You'd bring your Stearman with you? ...t'wood be cool
Posted on: 6/13/2011 3:30 AM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10570902

RE: Flair 1/4 Scale PT17/Stearman Build
Oh and I'll be posting photos soon.
Posted on: 6/10/2011 1:52 PM by Author "chasrb" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10567049