RE: Need engine advice for a big-un
I have a 16 lb Ultimate biplane with a DLE 55, this thing will hover at 1/2 throttle and has unlimited vertical. When I first got it, it had a Zenoha G-38 and it flew very scale, had OK power and would do all the basic maneuvers. I would recommend a DLE 30 or 35. If my $.02 means anything - if your plane requires anything larger than a .90 four stroke GO GAS. There is way less mess and the gas is extremely reliable. The price of engines is comparable and the price of fuel is less than 4 bucks a gallon.
Posted on: 8/1/2012 8:50 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11177989

RE: Maiden flight jitters
Being an instructor I end up doing several maidens. I end up doing maidens of many other airplanes as well, I am cautious, always check all the controls CG engine running correctly. The funny thing is maidens on other peoples planes don't bother me nearly as much as one on my own plane that I spent months putting together. To this date I have never crashed a maiden.
Posted on: 5/19/2012 6:35 AM by Author "chymas" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11086647

RE: Help us save our flying field - sign this petition
Signed and posted on our clubs Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/Miniature-Aircraft-Association-Tri-Cities-Washington/229589536510
Posted on: 5/18/2012 11:01 AM by Author "chymas" in the forum "RC Jets"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11085913

RE: Saito 91 intake valve leaking will not run.
John is onto something - take the valves out clean up the valve stem with some 600 grit or finer sand paper or steal wool. Verify your valves are closing all the way, inspect your valve seat to make sure there is no obvious damage, make sure the valve is not bent. Get some valve lapping compound and lap your intake valve. Should solve your problem.
Posted on: 5/12/2012 5:54 AM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11077862

RE: Scratch Build - 1/8 Scale, C-2A Greyhound
Sorry for getting stuck in the mud but it has been for a couple good causes. Yes, it's off topic but this is what I have been up to. I am the event cordinator for a fund raising event our club is hosting. It's called Wings for Wishes to benefit the Make-A-Wish foundation. Here is a link for our sponsor page as well as the event flyer - http://wow.my2wings.com/ needless to say we have rounded up the mother load of prizes. The other project I have been involved in is our club is also in the middle of adding a second runway! In the picture the runway will be between the 2nd and 3rd trenches from the left. We have all the sprinkler pipe in and will soon be having it paved as well as hydro seeding.
Posted on: 4/18/2012 6:02 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11047816

RE: Bridi Shrike Commender wing drawing!
+1 I think they are just showing it upside down. I wish I could come across one of these at a swap meet. [:)]
Posted on: 3/14/2012 5:52 AM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10999524

RE: Engine mounting angles, how to set up a twin
Typically on a twin you mount the right engine with right thrust and the left engine with left thrust. Most are in the 2-3 deg range. I remember reading an article where the guy mounted them @ 8 deg, by doing that he said he could fly single engine with no problems. I am working on a scale project that the engines are mounted with 2 deg thrust to the outboard sides.
Posted on: 3/13/2012 5:55 AM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10998213

RE: Scratch Build - 1/8 Scale, C-2A Greyhound
I used a router and cut some slots in my building board, built some blocks along with all thread and wing nuts to clamp everything in place. I removed the left hand side of the fuselage off the building board flipped it over, got it secured back down and started putting the right side formers in place. One of the well respected builders of our club saw the problems I was having with building the plug and suggested a product called Super Fill. This stuff was amazing once if figured out how to use it. The best way is to form it as close as you can before letting it set up. It takes about 8 hours to cure so there is plenty of time to work with it. Thanks for the tip Ron.
Posted on: 3/6/2012 8:11 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10989441

RE: Change within the AMA - what would you do different and why?
I would like to see the filing process for event sanctioning brought up to 2012. Can't we stream line this thing a bit? How about online filing and being able to pay the registration fees with PayPal. Right now you still have to fill it out on paper, send it to your district rep, and then they send it on to AMA. This is 1990's at best, lets get up to speed and streamline the process a bit.
Posted on: 2/10/2012 4:31 AM by Author "chymas" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10952458

RE: Scratch Build - 1/8 Scale, C-2A Greyhound
[quote]ORIGINAL: Props4ever Why r u working so hard to make those plugs with bondo n clay n stuff!...easy way would be to make templates of the Cross sections of the nacelles and cut them out of the foam with hot wire cutter!, then glass n prime them n you have ur plugs..... [/quote] The main reason is I don't believe I can put the detail I want into the foam. If the plug is made exact with pannel lines and cooling ducts my molds and the final nacelles will have all the same detail.
Posted on: 1/23/2012 6:26 AM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10922934

RE: Scratch Build - 1/8 Scale, C-2A Greyhound
I have been working on building a plug for the engine nacelles. I had cut-a-way drawings of the nacelle stations; I cut out each of the cross sections and then glued them at the appropriate spot. I then cut foam filler blocks to keep the need for body filler at a minimum. When I first started I was having a reaction with the foam and Bondo not liking each other very well. I solved that issue by spraying the foam with primer and then a heavy coat of paint. It wasn’t too long before I figured out Bondo is much easier to work with on a car than it is on something like this. I set the project aside and moved on to other things while I looked for a better solution. I saw where car makers model their new car designs using modeler’s clay so I figured that I would give that a try. Red modeling clay is very easy to work with, it forms and smooth’s out really nice. My first attempt I completed one side and then left it to dry. What I found the next morning was disturbing to say the least – the modelers’ clay shrank while it dried. I am now on my second attempt at the modelers’ clay. To prevent what happened last time I used a paintbrush to brush water on the plug before adding the clay. After getting one section done I wet a paper towel and placed over the clay to prevent it from drying too quickly (tip I found from a clay website). We will see how it turns out in the morning.
Posted on: 1/22/2012 6:52 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10922371

RE: I Dont Have IT
The PT-60 really isn't all that fast if set up correctly. Go to a 12 x 5 or a 13 x 5 prop. Your instructor told you not to touch the left stick, I say learn how to use the left stick IT ALSO CONTROLS THROTTLE. [:D] Most trainers will fly well on1/4 to 1/3 throttle and very seldom over 1/2. The instructor needs to trim it out on a lower throttle setting so that the plane is more dosile. By doing this the student learns much faster. OliverJacob is 100% correct about the wind and the efects on a model. As a student starting out it is highly recomended not to fly in winds over 7 to 8 MPH.
Posted on: 1/19/2012 6:42 AM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10916815

RE: I Dont Have IT
PT-60 is an awsome airplane and a great trainer [8D] Your instructor is a DORK [:(] This is why I become an instructor in the first place. Coming to the field is intimidating enough without having an instructor help you to wreck your plane. Yes the Tx was in your hands but the instructor never should have handed it over without ever having seen you fly. As an intructor I have 3 cords: round to round, square to square, and square to round. And just in case I have a student that is not flying Futaba I have this little gem: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18703__Wireless_Buddy_Box_System_8CH_Dual_RX_Controller_.html I put this and one of my Rx's in the students plane and I am still in control. I have never had a student crash a plane up to and including solo. I am on my 5th student in the past 6 months most of them solo in less than 10 sessions and had one solo within 24 hours of his first flight. When working with a student everything has a purpose instead of aimlessly flying around. My students learn how to control their planes instead of making corrections for the airplane not being where it is supposed to be. GET A NEW INSTRUCTOR.
Posted on: 1/18/2012 9:50 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10916419

RE: Scratch Build - 1/8 Scale, C-2A Greyhound
@ Dave - I agree with you on the wing junction, I am planning on using carbon fiber as well as tripling the fuselage cross sections in that area. I am also building the plane so that the fuselage, inner wing sections and naccells are all one piece. The wings will come apart where they traditionally fold supported with 2 carbon fiber tubes. Overall width will be around 40", the same width as the horizantal stab. Correct me if I'm wrong, this is more of a question - isn't the landing gear extend function for carrier launch only? @ Props4ever - thanks for the encouragement. I have built several kit planes as well as repaired a few. To be very honest with you this is my first scratch build EVER. Since leaving the hobby almost 20 years ago and then getting back into it I am finding good kits are gone and to have the plane(s) I like, I will have to build them myself. I have studied many, many plans of large scale builds and have several sets of plans. It may have been a better idea to build one of those first, but my history with this plane kept pulling me this dirrection. I have spent the past year drawing the plans for this plane, as it is starting to take shape I continue to find small adjustments here and there to make it all come together clean.
Posted on: 1/10/2012 9:58 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10902907

RE: Scratch Build - 1/8 Scale, C-2A Greyhound
Ok, as promised here are a few pictures of my progress so far. These are a couple of picutures from the front and rear. The formers are 1/8" lite ply, the 3 formers in the wing area will have doublers on each side with birch ply. Stringers alternate between 1/8" and 1/4" balsa with the top two 1/4" stringers being laminated 1/8 X 1/4 bass wood. I plan to make the rear cargo doors open. Once the left side is complete I have some jigs that I will be using to turn it over and reclamp so that everything is true for building the right hand side. Above the fuselage is the engine nacell plug that I will be using to make molds and then my fiberglass nacells.
Posted on: 1/5/2012 7:45 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10894059

RE: Scratch Build - 1/8 Scale, C-2A Greyhound
Thanks for the cool video link, I think I saw a few VRC-30 birds in there. I will do my best to post pictures of my progress on the fuselage tomorrow night. I would love to get some pictures of the 50th anv paint scheme. I am planning to do mine in the VRC-30 new tail design paint scheme, when I was there we just had a big RW on the tail. Clark [quote]ORIGINAL: HO-229 [color=#0000CC]Looks Nice Clark.... Real Nice...[/color] [color=#0000CC]Look forward to seeing it come together[/color] Inspiration when you become frustrated http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5F86ART6R-g [color=#0000CC]I have a great walk around pic set of the 50th anv. VRC-40 aircaft if you desire to really spice up the paint scheme[/color] Cheers, Dave [/quote]
Posted on: 1/4/2012 10:14 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10892369

RE: Scratch Build - 1/8 Scale, C-2A Greyhound
[quote]ORIGINAL: Props4ever I'm waiting to see ur build. Since ur going to be making functional trim/boost tabs, you really don't need to use MG high torque servos as nylon gear high torques will do the job due to less air pressure of the surface of OB rudders. Now why is that the IB right fin's rudders deflect soo much on one side and barely on other?, yet left IB fin is stationary!!... [/quote] <span style="line-height: 115%; font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 9pt">The tabs move in the same direction as the rudders and are essentialy the same size, the control linkage is hooked to the rudder and the tab is controlled mechanically by a pushrod that is cross connected between the vertical stabilizer and the tab, thus more surface and more air pressure. I will need a 120 oz. servo for each outboard rudder. The reason for the difference as explained to me by a Grumman Tech Rep is due to the torque factor of the props, losing the RH engine is not as critical as losing the LH engine. With the left engine running and providing your only source for power you have the p-factor pulling you to the left while having it running pulls it to the right. The nacelles are also angled out 2 deg on each side. Included is an overhead of the rear empennage
Posted on: 12/23/2011 10:30 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10873972

RE: Scratch Build - 1/8 Scale, C-2A Greyhound
I will have 4 vertical stabilizers with the outboard being full length and the inboard being just the upper section. The inboard left hand is stationary with no rudder or tab, the inboard right hand has a functional rudder and tab with 16 deg deflection on the rudder and an additional 16 deg on the tab when moving to the right and only 2 deg on each when moving to the left. the outboard rudders and tabs top and bottom on each side have 20 deg deflection on both the rudder and tab in both directions. I will be using high torque servos for rudders and elevators. I plan to upload some photos later this evening. [quote]ORIGINAL: Props4ever I like to see how you will build this model, i'm having hard time with 3 fins and 5 rudders on my Connie, here you got 4 fins and how many rudders........ It sure is different subject and i like it, you will have to watch ur weight in the tails, it wont take much to have tail heavy airplane specially with not too long fuse in front of the wing.... Good thinking for adding functional tabs on the tailplane, those will help in reducing weight by use of mid to high range servos instead of using all MG servos. I did same on my Connie, this way i'll use high torque but non metal gear servos on the rudders but will use single MG servo for both elevators. [/quote]
Posted on: 12/23/2011 3:18 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10873512

Scratch Build - 1/8 Scale, C-2A Greyhound
This build was inspired while I worked on this plane back in the early 90's while serving in the Navy. Needless to say I ended up seeing this plane inside and out over a period of 4 years. I didn't have an appreciation for the plane at first but as time went on I began to fall in love with it. I had thought of making a model of it back then but ended up getting out of the hobby. Since returning to the hobby about a year and a half ago and finding that kits are almost a thing of the past I am now ready to take on this project. I contacted Northrop Grumman and explained what I had in mind and asked if they could help me with three view drawings. The gentlemen there were very helpfull - Thank You! Some of the things I have in mind are: Engines - Syssa 30cc gas, rear exhaust is the primary reason for choosing this engine. Custom built exhaust/muffler inside engine naccels. Custom built landing gear to replicate scale. Air actuated. - I plan to machine this myself. Scale like slotted flaps with aileron droop. Working cargo door. True to scale vertical stab, rudders, and tabs - if you are unfamiliar, more to come on this later. True to scale lighting. I have drawn this out in CAD, it has taken me nearly 8 months to get to the point I am now. I still have some details to work out but some of that will have to be sorted out as the 3D model grows. I started with the naccel building a plug that I will in turn use to build molds and then the fiberglass shells. I am doing a build up fuselage 1/4 cabnet grade plywood center "spar" 1/8" formers with 1/4" and 1/8" stringers then covered with 1/8 balsa and 1/2 oz fiberglass. As of tonight I am cutting the fuselage formers using a band saw and a jig saw. I've seen several discussions on how to transfer prints to wood - what I have found that works best for me is printing them out, rough cut the paper leaving about 1/8" or more extra, use 3m adhesive spray the back side then glue dirrectly to the wood. This leaves me with a nice crisp line for cutting - ya, no kit cutters/laser cutters being used here. This is a true scratch build from paper to paint.
Posted on: 12/22/2011 6:56 AM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10870974

RE: Why did you join the AMA?
My wife joined because she was voted in as club secretary - you have to be an AMA member to be the secretary of the club.
Posted on: 11/21/2011 8:07 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "AMA Discussions"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10823202

RE: Slowing down after landing
HoundDog gets it - learn how to slip your plane and land on the approach end of the runway. When flying there is nothing more useless than the air above you and the runway behind you. JPMacG - learn how to land. So many RC guys CAN'T LAND, they arive. One old timer at my club has a GeeBee and was having the same problem always landing hot. After much prodding from him I flew it and slowed it down to land it. Brought it around on final got the nose high, controled the speed with elevator and altitude with throttle. Yes I flew it in slow flight and stalled it a few times up high before making an approach.
Posted on: 11/21/2011 7:56 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Beginners"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10823185

RE: Researching a new build - Lockheed Model 10 Electra
That would be an awsome build. I am getting ready to build a Grumman C-2a Greyhound.
Posted on: 11/4/2011 3:41 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10797080

Futaba 7C Mix 2-5 / 4-2 Problems
I am running split elevators ch 2 & 5. I am trying to program in some up elevator while flying knife edge manuvers....mix ch 4 to 2. One would think that since I have 2 as a master and 5 as the slave if I start to mix in some up elevator on channel 2, channel 5 should follow. IT DOESN'T. There are several tail mixes none of which are split elevator. I have found a way to make this work but I have to burn all 3 of my mixes 1. split elevator 2. 4 to 2 3. 4 to 5
Posted on: 10/10/2011 8:50 AM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Futaba Radios Direct support forum"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10757947

RE: sharp exacto blades
check out mcmastercar.com I bought a package of 100 stainless steal number 11 blades for about $23. These are the sharpest blades I have found and they actually hold an edge.
Posted on: 8/16/2011 9:06 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Composites Fabrication And Repair"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10673939

RE: Smallest Gasser?
Just got mine yesterday, mounted last night and flew it today OH BABY is an understatement!!! [:D] I mounted it in place of an OS 91 4 stroke the mounting holes and engine mounts fit exact. Mounted it in a goldberg super chipmunk. Swinging a 15 X 6 prop it not only goes vertical but accelerates while doing it.
Posted on: 8/16/2011 8:15 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10673867

RE: Slow down on weekends...
My name is chymas and I am an RCU addict, it's been [8|] since my last meeting and I just cant seem to stay on the wagon. [:D]
Posted on: 7/29/2011 6:45 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10645871

RE: Flight logs
I never have logged my flights. Do you have a particular reason for this? I have a rough idea of how many gallons of fuel I use, could probably get close to an idea. At a club I was at once before we had a older gentleman that "logged" his hours, funny thing was every time I saw him he always had another hour or so racked up but always had the same amount of fuel in his fuel jug, only seen him fly 2 ro 3 times. Just wondering the reason, not mocking you. Could probably do something in Excell.
Posted on: 7/28/2011 8:57 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10644250

RE: Smallest Gasser?
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/jba-j15g-15cc-gas-engine.html check out this one - out of stock at the moment but set up to get an e-mail as soon as it comes in. 15cc close to a .90 ci four stroke. 20cc =1.20ci weights less than some popular .90's
Posted on: 7/28/2011 7:58 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10644152

RE: Club Participation Problems
differential dues, penalties, and paying in / getting paid from a maintenance fund is going to do nothing but drive a wedge in your club. Reward performance through BBQ's, no landing fee at the next event, a rafle at the end of the year - one entry for each work party or club meeting attended. The ones that show up at the work parties are normally the ones that come to the club meetings. Report the good times spent at these events in the club news letter. "Lead by example." You will attract more flys with honey than you will vinigar. Good luck.
Posted on: 7/28/2011 7:44 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "The Clubhouse"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10644123

RE: Four Star 60 dies on maiden day.
I have a 60 size low wing similar to a tiger II. I am using a DIY drones auto pilot and tuning 5 servos, I check the batteries between each flight after 3 flights of 20 to 25 minutes each I still have 4.8v with a 100 ma load. I really don't think the batteries are the problem. I do question if the radio switch is turned off and then turned back on while doing bench testing/setting up a plane does it then go into brown out mode? I had 1 plane that I was using a bulkhead switch mount and due to vibration turned itself off. I got to the plane first thing I was looking for or suspected was radio problems/dead battery. Load tested - everything good found the switch had a tight spot in it. [quote]ORIGINAL: Gooseman240 So question, brown outs caused by temp loss of good supply of power, correct? I am kinda a newbie, 3 flights would be pushing my gut feeling for battery life. I do have a voltage indicator. Never done 3 flights on a single battery. Considering flights are both 10 mins. That is 25-30 mins that battery has been on considering pre-flight checks and all. My bat is also the same size as the one in the video if that is the one you used in your plane. Just a simple observation, opinion, not flaming anybody or any piece of hardware or vendor. [/quote]
Posted on: 7/15/2011 6:33 PM by Author "chymas" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10623105