RE: New Great Planes Revolver
JH313; To answer your question: YES! I built 2 - 70" Revolvers back when this thread started, #1crashed, #2 still flying (but heavy) and just bought another last month (= #3). I had a small Revolver for years, crashed it on a stupid stall landing, bought another 4 months ago. Great Planes has not changed anything with exception on aluminum spinners (the prop slots are same LARGE over cut) on 59", actually it's the same spinner as the 70". My biggest gripe about these planes is the flimsy L.G. mounts, but then as you can see - I keep buying them anyways. Something about the style and performance in the way these planes fly have me addicted. There are at least a half dozen ways mentioned in this thread on how to reinforce Revolver L.G. plates. The first two I had I'd fly until they broke off (doesn't take long) and reinforcement is easy cause you can pop out the blind nuts and just add 3/16 to 1/4 aircraft ply on top. On my 2 new ones, I have a friend who surgically installs plates so strong, the L.G. would probably break first. If you go with the interior beef - up, be sure to get some longer 8-32 X 1" SH bolts, and make sure plate is secured well against firewall with large triangle stock or hefty hardwood. Good luck and enjoy.
Posted on: 7/12/2012 7:17 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11152452

RE: Dirty Birdy ARF
If you're into SPA, here's link. Though it looks outdated, the rules are still current: www.seniorpattern.com/newsletter/Pack.PDF There are other sites online which seem to confirm this as final if you google Senior Pattern Association Rules. These are mainly for those of us who want to compete in sanctioned events. But trying to 'out perform' anyone by engine size doesn't always fit. Pilot skill is the killer. There are other sanctioned pattern competitions for those who like to blend super sonic speed (BPA), and I think I read 2 other types of pattern classes besides F3A. IMHO, I prefer 2 stroke power for SPA over any other. One more note: anyone remember Dave Patrics video (Wring It Out) where he demonstrated virtually perfect manuvers using his Finesse with 120 4S? I believe this was built for F3A competition, something I couldn't keep up with. Many thanks to those who resurected SPA. John
Posted on: 7/6/2012 6:52 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11145134

RE: Allied Hobbies Integra
I couldn't find picture of #1, it was red and white. These are #2 and #3, circa 1990. Not fancy in covering but practical.
Posted on: 6/25/2012 10:37 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131202

RE: Allied Hobbies Integra
Well mixerfix, there are no commercially available plans available that I heard of - any where. That's another reason I'd like to contact Mr. Russ. My plans could be copied, although a couple small peices fell off which have no real significance. One thing I don't have is the instruction manual, but as I mentioned, there's a thread on RC Groups where a gentleman has the whole kit in a box (undoubtedly built by now). I still remember how to build from memory, cause I built so many. Maybe if you're serious you could contact the other party for a copy. I could do a build thread, but I doubt there's enough colective interest for this project. If you have read the few comments posted about this plane, you should see one where a professional trainer flew one built by a student and said a lot of good things. I remember the guy who taught me to fly was shocked when I brought this plane out for him to maiden. I never told him I bought the kit over a decade ago (back then there were only a handful of ARF's). The fiist plane on it's first flight was spectacular. He told me it was the most solid flying AC he'd ever flown, and hogged flying time a lot. What neither of us took into account was the fact it was a pattern plane. I was a newbe and crashed it after 5 flights. To me, it was the fastest thing I ever flew. I built another quickly, and it lasted longer but radio problems ended it. This plane is very COMPACT and standard radio gear has to be shoe horned in the fuse. It has a close resemblance to a reno mustang, even with trike gear. When I finish building this one, I will have a better idea to compare flying characteristics to. I'm also going to try and post a couple pics. John
Posted on: 6/25/2012 10:06 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11131153

RE: Allied Hobbies Integra
Although this thread is seemingly dead, I would like to revitalize it. First, I have old yellowed plans saved from 4 Integras I built in early 90's. I found a company that sell the foam cores and will resurrect another. If you're wondering what makes this plane so special, it is in a class of its own. It flies rock stabil and lands like a trainer. An ordinary K&B .61 powered all my planes effortlessly - even with full house retracts. There's a small thread on RC Groups with interaction with designer Dick Russ, and I can't get through to him. Has something happened to him? I bought one of the first Allied kits in 1976, after reading in RCM (?) how it placed first in competition. It has looks it has... well I'm biased so I'll quit while I'm ahead. If anyone knows how I can contact Dick Russ, I want to ask him the difference between Integra and Integra II. John
Posted on: 6/22/2012 9:54 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Classic RC Pattern Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11127784

FINALLY, an ARF manufacturer that keeps their word
Kudos to Airborne Models upholding their defects policy! Over the last 2 decades of my RC involvement, I've lost many a plane, due to pilot error (1) radio interference (2) radio system failure (3) etc (4) AND manufacture defect. These defective planes were 2 ARF's and 2 kits, all separate companies - 2 no longer exist. In keeping with RCU policies, I'll refrain mentioning names in public. Besides, 2 are long gone - proving they didn't belong or had lots of customer issues. However, 2 months ago I was flying a plane that went in hard and was totaled. At home, a post-mortem clearly revealed a manufacture defect in the wing. I wasn't even going to bother trying to call the company since I never had any resolve with others in the past, and the plane was slightly over a year old. But my flying buddy finally persuaded me. My contact was made with Steve in Livermore CA and after making my case short, I detected a serious concern from Steve. This then led to a proposal of reimbursement (50% of retail cost - I threw away fuse but kept the wing. Lesson learned, keep all parts to send back). I shipped the wing back sawed in half, as this was the culprit for loss but strangely, it had the least amount of damage. To my surprise Steve called me back and said I was entitled to the 50% towards buying ANY model from AM. Now that's service to be news worthy. The cost this company absorbed could have paid completely for some planes they sell, but I elected to buy something different, which cost me less than 100 bucks and shipping. I have received my new model and am pleased to report a company that KEEPS THEIR WARRANTY without excuses or haggling. WHY CAN'T OTHER COMPANIES DO LIKEWISE? John Bromley
Posted on: 6/7/2012 5:37 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Crash & Rebuild"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11109814

RE: How to fix broken / cut servo connectors
Thanks guys! Now by any chance, does anyone know where I can buy the Hitec braided servo wire? Now that I know where to get the right connector parts I could replace those servos intended for ailerons out in the wing bays. I remember seeing a build thread somewhere for a big Revolver and the builder replaced all wires needing extensions. I know where I can get the red, white and black braided. But I wonder if there's some yellow,red and black out there. I'm comparing both companies mentioned for best quality parts. They both seem good and EMS has been around for a long time now - might be where I saw the magazine add. If it's any interest to anyone, I'll post the final results. One more thing, a long time ago I saw an add recommending buying and replacing servo wires and connectors as they will wear out (as if mine lasted that long). Wait, I just remembered 2 old planes that still have original Futaba S128 servos working well. Soooo... I guess that was just another sales pitch - or are some of you in practice of this? I can see connectors wearing, that's why I will invest in a small supply, but wire too? What am I missing? John
Posted on: 2/10/2012 1:55 PM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10953138

How to fix broken / cut servo connectors
Yesterday I was cutting though shrink tube that locked servo connector / extension and severed one of the leads real close to the male connector. It's the twisted HD wire on a Hitec High Torque servo. I cannot repair it due to the short little stub of wire and yes, I now use the neat plastic snap locks. Too bad I bought 2 rolls of shrink tube from Harbor Freight that will last me a lifetime. Anyways, what is the best method for replacement? Buy the OEM parts from Maxx with crimper, or buy and solder a whole new lead connector (which by the way I can't find exact replacement twisted YELLOW, red, black lead) and resolder it. I don't have problems with soldering, but I want the exact OEM lead. There used to be a company that advertised the crimper, sets of connectors and wire for years in the magazines. I've tried to look back for it and can't find. If a similar thread has been posted, please guide me to it. Thanks, John
Posted on: 2/10/2012 10:03 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Hitec/MultiPlex Radios- Ask Hitec Customer Service"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10952831

RE: Need a more Powerful Starter
Hey jaka, what's the neat little package attached to the glow/torque starter? If it's what I think it is let me know where I can get one. I have the same setup - 14.8 Lipo on small starter. Your idea looks great, although I think I'd put on a longer glow cord.
Posted on: 12/15/2011 5:06 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10860482

RE: *Sig Rascal 110 ???*
They called me Friday night (12/9) and said there was a 'little' increase in price, but were ready to ship out. How much? $559 + ship. I declined and suffered from sticker shock rest of evening. Hope one of you gentlemen can get it. I'm tired of the waiting games, back order until further notice and other nonsense thats evolved from every company dealing ARFs. From now on, I'm gonna build - that's what we used to do. That's what Sig was all about. So much for the good old days.
Posted on: 12/13/2011 6:19 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10857201

RE: *Sig Rascal 110 ???*
OK, but it fooled me at first glance. Now that I researched it, I found out it's designed for a .46. Totally out of the league. There are several other planes out there which come close to its league, but the Rascal is most popular at local clubs. IMO, its because its a Sig - built machine. But the more I think about it, if this turns out another false promise, I am going to build something. I don't know about you but I feel kinda guilty hearing about lack of jobs in this country, while I'm supporting the Chinese.
Posted on: 12/5/2011 10:18 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10844354

RE: Need a more Powerful Starter
This thread caught my attention because I needed to revise my old torque starter a couple months ago. More powerful? Then the Dynatron would be at the top of my list. More POWER? I believe that's your issue. Seems most everyone in my club still using nitro or smaller gassers have utilized Lipo packs strapped on now. I like mobility and hate the hassles with cords to heavy batteries. I've seen the whole gammut of DIY strap on packs to available/ready starters. I also don't like the gel cell packs, if you don't recharge them immediately after use, it shortens lifespan - FAST! I retired my old hobbico 180 because it's 16 years old (but still works), and because it doesn't have the 'feet' on stand bottoms to attach to all the power boxes. I'm inherently lazy so I purchased a new PowerPro Starter - H9; Starter Source power box (without battery) - H9; and the most important part: a 14.8 2200 mAh 4S 20C Lipo which fits perfectly inside the power box by H9. Total cost $112.00 & free ship. NOW we're talking! Starts my smallest (.15) to largest without effort (DLE 20 & Saito 180 fs) starts engines all day, 10 days flying (with some long spans between). Technology is a wonderful thing but it costs sometimes. Couldn't find anyone wanting to sell their units so I bought this set up and haven't recharged it yet for over three weeks. Sure beats monkeying around with that old stuff. One more thing, you MUST purchase a cell monitor that plugs into the balancer and make sure the pack doesn't get drained down - or you'll shorten or ruin that expensive Lipo pack. The battery checkers for Lipos are very cheap ($6.00 from headsup rc).
Posted on: 12/5/2011 8:56 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10844245

RE: *Sig Rascal 110 ???*
December 15th??!! WOW I was told 'sometime AROUND the end of the month'. The slow boat from China musta got a good kick in the *behind* Mind you, if Sig looses this shipment... they'll be better off working for the Whitehouse. BTW - I don't know if anyone else will see this, but directly above my post is a banner add from Balsa USA displaying a plane - nearly identical to the Rascal! Its called TRAINER, yellow and black. Verrrrry interesting.
Posted on: 12/2/2011 6:31 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10839548

RE: Moki / Mark Engines Availability?
Yes there is a limited repertory of new 2S 1.8 & 2.1 engines, but try finding a place that reps/sells parts in USA. Some people believe Dave Patrick will but every search I've done shows he no longer exists. It would be a shame to see this magnificent power plant eventually go dinosaur.
Posted on: 12/2/2011 6:09 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10839513

RE: *Sig Rascal 110 ???*
I know this is an old (and worn out) thread but I was pleasantly surprised to get a call reffering to a B.O. I signed onto last July. The lady is going through her list of people to let them know the Rascal (and other planes) will be arriving sometime late this month. I told her I'm still on, and she said others on list will be getting same courtesy calls. Evidently some have dropped off - understandably. So I googled up this plane to see if anything/anyone else has heard through the grape vine as well.
Posted on: 12/1/2011 12:25 PM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Giant Scale Aircraft - General"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10838328

BT Mosquito Wing Divider
I'm scratch building Brian Taylor's 81" Mossy (finally) from plans I purchased over 10 yrs ago. I will be using 91 4s; and have a question for some modification help. The only draw back for this plane is the one-piece wing. Has anyone out there made the wing sectional, either 2 or 3 piece? I can't seem to find a way to contact Mr Taylor for this so it will be up to someone out there with exprienced re-engineering skills. Second question is: the plans state reversing one of the engine rotations - is this necessary? Thanks, John
Posted on: 10/12/2011 7:22 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Scratch Building, Aircraft Design, 3D/CAD"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10761340

RE: FYI - Sig to release Rascal 110 kit
Update from Becky at Sig Manufacturing - person in charge of orders and back orders, etc; A return call to Becky has informed me that Sig has NO INTENTIONS to release the Rascal 110 kits because they have found, bound and purchased ARF assemblies from a company a while back. As I previously mentioned, first release is in late October 2011, second roll out in December. This should not have any snaffoos or any more delays because they have been inundated with people ready to purchase - in quantities that give incentives to businesses to fulfill. Greybeard was correct as I also assumed that from the birth of this thread, a year's time is a good indicator the ball got dropped. The person who started this was also correct (at that time) that Sig was not only considering a line of 'kits', they evem started in production - until a very favorable company entered into a contract for 'ARF's'. There you have it. Sometime soon I expect this thread will have to end and hopefully be replaced with the advent of the NEW 110 Rascal reviews and 'builds.' (yes, I know - even ARF's have to be built, assembled, small mods, etc., but they're MUCH faster than glueing all the pieces and covering)
Posted on: 10/7/2011 9:50 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10753170

RE: FYI - Sig to release Rascal 110 kit
Thanks but, I know the difference between the two definitions. What I want to know is WHAT or WHICH definition of KIT is being referred to here in this forum? If I'm not mistaken, I believe all of the above afore mentioned to mean ARF or ARF/kit? If not, please inform me. As I mentioned in my post, I contacted Sig and they said ARF's will be available. Not trying sound over-reactive. But if a KIT is ALSO going to be available, I would be interested. Either way, I've got to get one of these. They are perfect for tug - towing. John
Posted on: 10/4/2011 7:54 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10747938

RE: FYI - Sig to release Rascal 110 kit
I'm a little confused with your term 'kit'. Do you mean built up from plans or ARF assembly? Last Thursday (9/29) I called Sig to inquire next availability for 110 Rascal ARF, and they said two production roll-outs are coming; one in late October 2011 and another for December 2011 for red and blue ARFs. Due to the high demand of this product, I asked if there was a notification list - yes there is, and it's filling up! All I had to do to enroll was give my name and phone number, I also added my email - there was no fee or down payment. However, the nice lady taking my info could not tell me the price!!! She honestly did not know if it would be more or less than previous list price... my guess is more. Its funny how the rc hobby business is booming while the economy is going down the toilet. I guess while more people are out of work, they still need something to do. Anyway, back to the point - what is a kit, I'm old school and to me kits and ARFs are different projects, although I am beginning to see a trend here where some of our suppliers use 'kit' as a misnomer for ARF. John
Posted on: 10/3/2011 8:37 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Kit Building"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10746308

RE: HELP - GP P47 clunk doesnt work!
UPDATE!! - GOOD NEWS Finally made time to fly yesterday and put the P 47 in the air. It flies just fine with the original clunk set up. Now I regret jumping to premature conclusions I made in this post. If anyone is still interested, I would be happy to download some pictures of this peculiar shaped tank with its unbelievable potential. By that I mean that in addition to feeding fuel reliably in any orientation, the little 4 oz tank ran the 25 FX for at least 10 minutes. That was the longest flight time we tried pushing and even after that, we disassembled wing to see about another oz left in the tank. It was a great day for my son who put in a dozen flights on it. It performs VERY well and would undoubtedly make for a good combat plane. 3 things I've learned from this, 1 - Tilting some planes for 'tweaking' won't work. 2 - I didn't know our fuels contained anti foaming agents (as mentioned by greybeard). 3 - The clunk tubing inside your tank should NOT bend or reach to front - because it usually will STAY THERE when you don't need it to! Thanks everyone for input John
Posted on: 3/23/2011 7:29 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10417505

RE: HELP - GP P47 clunk doesnt work!
Well I had a dumb idea, before the last 4 posts appeared and I immediately returned to the forum only to find several other guys hit it on the head. I pulled two tanks out of my larger 60 sized planes and guess what? Neither of the clunk lines are any softer than the one I thought I had a problem with. So... this means that in the air while the aircraft has momentum (and believe me, this engine hauls) the fluidity (?) and G force should PUSH the fuel to the back and maintain fuel feed (except in DOD?). For new planes or engine tweaking, I have always tilted the planes up (lean run) and downward (rich run) to see if corrections of the needle valves are necessary. Never before did this happen probably because the tank in the P 47 is so flat. But now we will reassemble everything and go flying (with caution). My son found the P 47 on U Tube, powered by a 25 LA and it few a lot longer than I expected this tank would last. Lastly, I like the idea most of replacing this tank with one of those bladder types. DARN! I thought I was going to have to invent something and get a patent - wouldn't be the first time. Thanks all John
Posted on: 3/18/2011 9:04 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10407765

RE: HELP - GP P47 clunk doesnt work!
OK, first in reply to jetmech05: I have to invert to start because that's the way it is designed. We (had) a P 40 - same installation, ran no problem - until it made an unscheduled landing. The broken plane was put in my warehouse, this weekend I will go get it and see what the difference is between tanks, BTW it also is a GP combat sized like the P 47. Idle is fine, a little on rich side. I'd say you understand most part except for the clunk orientation when nosed down. All but 2 of our small fleet are glow and (they) run exceptionally reliable in any orientation. To carrellh: I will try your suggestion if the following posts don't work from - To scar and greybeard: I think the tubing I put in last is what you"re talking about. The >*&# clunk bends around more but still only gets 1/2 way! Keep in mind this is a very small tank, about 4 oz and like I said, a larger tank might be the only way out but will require modifying the main bulkhead to a point that concerns me. I want to thank you all for your suggestions and add this; when one encounters a problem, set back, troubling matter, etc. look at it as an opportunity and use that noggin until the light bulb turns on. When the GP tech didn't have an answer I told him I'd post this in forums until someone else can address and fix this. I'm not a whiner that wants to bash this product. In fact the tech encouraged me to post this and let him know how it is fixed so they will have the answer the next time someone like me calls. Will be back Monday, thanks again John
Posted on: 3/18/2011 6:41 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10407555

HELP - GP P47 clunk doesnt work!
Only someone else out there with this plane and set up can answer this problem... I just finished my son's great planes P 47 thunderbolt and ran ground tests yesterday. Only one big problem, the tank / clunk system. We're using a 25FX for power and the engine has been in other planes and runs flawlessly. But in this plane something was wrong - after topping off with fuel, it started right up (had to invert to do this) turned the plane right side up and ran full bore. So far ,so good. I picked up the screaming demon and tilted it nose up - still screamin - then nose down. In a second, it sputttered and quit. After numerous start ups, we found that as long as the plane was situated horizontal or nose up, it ran the tank dry! I did everything short of disassembling plane. Pressurized lines & checked for pin holes, you name it. Finally I removed the tank and lines and used the fueler to diagnose - voila! I found the clunk was unable to even touch ANY fuel once the tank was (more than) 3/4 full tilted downward. This particular tank is unlike any other I've seen before. In order to fit it inside, a small rectangular 120 cc tank was used, sized 31/2" L X 1 7/8" W X 1 3/8" H. The 1 3/8" H leaves less than 1/4" top and bottom of stopper. The following sugestions were from other club members: Suggested: turn stopper so clunk (to carb) is at top of tank - no better Suggested: use smallest thin wall tubing inside tank - only draws down 1/2 tank Suggested: shorten the brass tube at back of stopper to 3/8" - I made down to 1/4" - NG Suggested: install a bigger, better tank like a dubro 6 oz. - possible option but requires extensive modification to wing support bulkhead. Suggested: call GP tech support - quote "we aint never had anyone complain about this before, don't know why it doesn't work for you. Ideas, anyone? And no, EP is not an option. Thanks, John.
Posted on: 3/17/2011 12:30 PM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Questions and Answers"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10406168

RE: Evo 61nx vs O.S. 65AX
Good point but not entirely fiction. If you don't believe in rated hp look at their rated RPM. Both OS engines I own are running approximately 200 - 300 RPM below advertised, both are well broke in and use smallest sized props recommended. Another club member likes using undersized props on his OS 55 AX, and runs 200 RPM over the recommended RPM range. Who's engine will out live the other? Mine - I hope! I haven't tached the EVO at the club yet, but I'll bet it's also gonna be close to or match it's rated numbers. My observations watching others at the club with glow engines have shown staunch diversity in brand preference that proves the phrase "to each - his own". If the predictability of aircraft performance is important, weight to rated RPM/power is equally important - such as pylon racers that are given a set of one brand and class of engine/fuel/prop. Usually all run very close and steady thereby putting everthing on the pilot's shoulders! My point is that there is a science to actual brake hp for every kind engine, and it takes a lot of fine tuning to get its optimum when you're dealing with props and engines. Some fliers make this a religion, to me, well I'd rather spend my time having fun (not to say there's anything wrong with competition). I have also seen with my own eyes anomalous differences of RPM in the small glow engines. I have a Magnum 15 that turns an 8 X 4 at 20,000+ THIS engine has out performed all other contenders - just had to brag, sorry.
Posted on: 1/27/2011 7:19 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10292484

RE: Evo 61nx vs O.S. 65AX
I have a 3+ yr old 55AX and a 75AX for almost 2 yrs. They're very reliable in starting and throttle transitioning. I have nothing against the EVO engines, in fact I almost bought one last week until I researched the new 65AX. May I mention that OS engines out number all other brands combined at my club with one exception - electrics. I still love the nitros though - with all the cumbersome logistics and expensive fuel. One thing I haven't seen in this forum (or over looked ) is the weight factor. The 65AX weighs only 17.5 oz with muffler and runs 2 HP to boot! I have been looking for another engine to replace the heavy 75 AX in my ultra sport 60. Like I said, almost went with the EVO, but it has a 46 size foot print and I need something to drop into a 60 sized mount. If I can afford to, I will spend the extra bucks for a scotts mac tuned muffler and lower the weight and increase HP. This is almost perfect! I agree with the contentions about OS prices being so high, but they still exist as a big business. The change in weight may become a new policy due to the popularity of electrics - look at the Jett 60 XL... oooh if I only had the dough! My biggest complaint about OS is their deletion of afore mentioned engines of past - why on earth did they discontinue the mighty 1.08? The return of the 25 FX is understandable, now let's see where this goes.
Posted on: 1/26/2011 8:03 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Glow Engines"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10289741

RE: Great Planes Revolver 70 (Engine Recommendation for High Speed)
I just got a revolver 70" to put my OS 75AX in. Had engine in a US 60, and even at over 8 lbs., this plane will rocket out of sight in UV. Wish someone at club had a video cam so I could prove this. But - concerning the big Revolver: just started building, the wings come pre-hinged. They have LARGE GAPS in both aileron hinges. Has ANYONE else out there encountered this? The gaps are approximately 3/32 and GP says not to worry, 'just seal'em up'. OK will do if this is the norm ????? JOHN
Posted on: 10/7/2010 9:14 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "ARF or RTF"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10053502

RE: Lets see your ULTRA SPORTS !!!!!!!!!!!
In reply to JPMacG: My US 60 weighs 8 1/4 lbs, powered with OS 75AX, 13X8 APC has U.V. Currently, it uses Dave Brown mechanical retracts but - I can only fly her at clubs with paved runways to keep from bending the 3/16 mains! If you plan flying off grass (our grass in Florida is crab grass) my next choice for retracts will be Robart 530RS mains with 3/8 Robo struts. If you read back in this thread, you'll see mostly (what looks like) 3/16 mains as common, no problem installations on 60's - both retract and fixed. The Robart system is expensive, but in my opinion worth every penny because of their durability. I've seen people at my home club (FL Bahia grass) bend and fold their wire gear, then rebend them back - in the wing!!? This practice absolutely shortens the base mount life and usually ends (in a short time) in cursing and frustration. I'm currently building a US 1000 and PM'd cde (post #408) for advice on what retracts he recommended. He uses HD Robarts with 1/2" struts! He also had a great recommendation: instead of using 90's, try the 85 degree trunions - this spreads out the mains like a Me 109 and should make for better ground handling! I like it, I can use all the help I can get to better my landings. Hope this helps, now lets see if I can post pics of my US 40 & 60. JOHN
Posted on: 9/30/2010 10:30 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "Sport Flying"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10037760

RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts
Thanks Mitch for letting us know you're out there, and I see you have a honorable track record. I am too busy/lazy for a DIY project like this and even though I have already started on the basic mods, I'd rather do business with you. This thread has been very interesting and informative, but the underlying sum (especially near the beginning) was the lack of commercial interest to answer the present need. My only question is WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN? I've been looking/googling electric retract systems for almost a year now, and this was where I finally landed. NOTE: this guy's web site shows at least 2 years of manufacturing retro fits for ANY brand retract, and an up-front post to backlog wait with a gaurantee not to charge/bill until ready for shipment. John
Posted on: 7/19/2010 9:50 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "RC Robotics and Autonomous Robots"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9873866

RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts
Hold the phone - found answer to my question by looking back over the thread on POST 95. And should anyone else have missed the DIY spot like I did, check out Tom's forum at: http://www.laureanno.com/RC/E-Retracts.htm John
Posted on: 5/12/2010 11:05 AM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "RC Robotics and Autonomous Robots"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9728502

RE: Electric Retracts - Modifying existing Air/Servo-operated Retracts
Alright, I've gotta do this. I have a pair of Robart 630's and I'm totally sold on this electric DIY concept. Need help on basic key components.I understand the motor and where to get it. But could someone please submit a detailed list of all those other parts? Tom mentions 'clamshells" and limit switches, 4-40 all thread, what about drilling and tapping the drive sleeve (existing) in the unit that connects to the pneumatic arm? And I like the idea of 'pressure' bearings installed but at what two points? When I'm done with these babies, I'll be back for the electronics, which won't be difficult for me, my friend's an electronic engineer. Thanx
Posted on: 5/10/2010 5:13 PM by Author "cjbotox" in the forum "RC Robotics and Autonomous Robots"
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9724329